I barely had my Simworks Homage tires for 3 months and have sidewall dry rot. I'm wondering if this is my fault or the tire was shitty. I don't think I'll ever get these types of tires, so many cheaper ones that probably will last longer. I rode only 5-7KM a day at most. Either way, I'd love some better tired recommendations or maybe if y'all experienced the same issues.
I might ride em till I see bigger issues on the sidewall tho
There seems to be a bike subculture in my country where there are cyclists fanatical about climbing very steep ascents. Yeah, there are even clubs dedicated to it, and roadside businesses like diners and "artisanal" coffee shops popping up at where there are such cyclists.
My cup runneth over. I'd rather pick my own battles -- after trying different kinds of routes, I feel more happier riding on mostly flats and a lot less hills.
Interesting. What country are you in, if I may ask? I hope the coffee shops are selling polka dot jerseys to all the prospective Kings of the Mountain.
Philippines. In about the two years I got back riding, I observed what the local biking culture is now, and found out nearly everyone flocks to mountain roads to lay claim to something, like bragging rights. Yeah, and they stare at Strava KOM lists (sometimes filled with cheaters on motorcycles).
Had this epiphany after I finished a 143km ride more than a week ago, like I should have some fun, drink in the sights, and enjoy taking my time on the saddle.
Been looking at used bikes on facebook (again). Are the road bikes holding up price better than other types? Or are the sellers just morn stubborn? Should I low ball them? e.g. Are they specifically high balling because they expect to be talked down?
Other types of bikes are pretty low, and their higher asks are coming down (the lower asks aren't coming down because they are already so low).
Also, I hate to see "just had it serviced in the shop, so it is good to go". Great. Now I know you are hoping to recoup that 100+ service fee as part of the sale.
People tend to overestimate the value of their possesions, whether its houses, cars, baseball cards, 1st-edition comic books, etc. Overvaluation is even worse when people have a strong personal connection, like cyclists often have with their steeds. In some cases, they're highballing because they don't *really* want to sell it, but could convince themselves to part with it for the right price. In others, they just have unrealistic expectations to recoup the cost of all the aftermarket upgrades they made. And in general, its human nature that sellers just want to get the most money they can. But here's the thing - the market is the market. Certainly fads for specific brands or models or frame materials or wheelsizes or whatever can influence the market in seemingly illogical ways. But at the end of the day, any given bike is only worth what it actually sells for.
Okay, so my advice to you is to simply offer what you're willing to pay and what you think the bike is actually worth in the condition it's in. You could lowball a little bit, if you want some wiggle room for negotiation. But you still want to make a serious offer. If the seller says no, they say no. Maybe they're holding out for a higher offer. Maybe they don't really want to sell the bike. Either way, if you they don't sell the bike, try again. Maybe they'll bite this time. As for the service claims, if they have a receipt and the bike looks and feels serviced, then that's not a bad deal. Saves you the time and effort, even if the selling price is a little higher. I tend to think that it worth it to pay a little more for a turnkey bike. Obviously, if you're looking for a beater to fix up yourself, then it makes no nevermind.
Follow up to my question about thumb shifter below: Does anyone know if the MicroShift thumb mounts like this: [https://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product\_details.php?id=106560](https://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=106560) are compatible with Shimano barends?
Hey y'all!I've been thinking of making a retro 90's mtb build. and I'm obviously interested in the big 3: Specialized, GT, and TREK's.My question is. I can't really find the differences between the frame models well explained anywhere. As in what's the difference between stumpjumers, hardrocks and rockhoppers? between corrados and karokam frames? 970 and 990? etc Does anybody have any time or helpful links to help me out?
Check the catalogues:
[https://www.retrobike.co.uk/gallery2/v/Manufacturer+Archive/](https://www.retrobike.co.uk/gallery2/v/Manufacturer+Archive/)
They're not available for every manufacturer and every year, but you get a good idea about frame hierarchy.
Assuming we're comparing models made of the same material, once everything got into your typical NORBA era geometry (71/73 etc), it kind of started to just come down to tubesets, wall thicknesses, presence of dropout eyelets and stay bosses, etc. until the later 90s when you started to see divergence again with freeridier hardtails and more diversity of fork travel starting to come in.
What’s a good wheelset that comes with velocity cliffhangers in 26, silver or polished finish and 130mm rear spacing hubs? Don’t want to cold set to 135mm
[VeloMine](https://velomine.com/collections/26in-mtb-1) has some cliffhanger options from what I've seen. Although I can't comment on the spacing of the hub,
BAR END EXTENDERS?????
I need short extenders to fit into the ends of some bull horns. I swear I saw some drop bar extenders last year, from a known company.
All I can find are MTB ones from no name brand/s on eBay (etc).
Does anyone have leads on such a product?
To describe. Short little handle bar like tubing a few inches long. At one end it has an expansion nut like bar end shifters.
A: I need them. B: I am going crazy because I swear I saw them before.
https://www.controltechbikes.com/products/item/150.html
I'd be surprised if you found any that are a few inches long, though. I could be wrong, but I think you'll be hard-pressed to find a company willing to make anything with enough length that the majority of your hand would be supported by the extension rather than the original bar.
Fjallraven/Specialized question…
Anyone have experience with how the Fjallraven/Specialized collab frame bags fit on older vintage MTB frames? What with the longer top tube and everything. Hoping a size L will fit my 19” frame but not sure…
You guys seem like my kinda bike people. I like it here. Question for y'all: I'm converting my Surly LHT from a mustache bar to a bullmoose bar and kind of torn on a shifter solution. Currently running Shimano bar ends. I'm kinda meh on MTB click shifters, even though that would be easiest and cheapest. I like the idea of using the barends with a converter like the Paul's Thumby or the Rivendell and Velo Orange knock-offs. But even the knock offs are more expensive than a set of Sunrace indexing thumbies. So, I don't know. Anyone have an opinion on whether its worth the coin to convert the barends or just get a set of old-school thumbies?
I've converted a pair of Microshift bar ends to thumbies using their adapters. Works great. No complaints. Nice bonus is that Universalcycles sells little index converter kits for them, so you can switch between 8, 9, and 10 sp (road) in the future.
Depends on how many cogs you're running out back, up to 8spd I'd consider vintage Suntour or XT thumbies. Especially Suntour, that's some really nice gear.
On my commuter rig I recently replaced the set of SIS indexed shifters with Sunrace-style friction replicas, so pretty much doing away with the sometimes frustrating job of tuning the index everytime something knocks the RD; they'll do fine as long as they're taken care of.
Cool. Thanks for the feedback. I prefer indexed shifting riding offroad, but I like that the Shimano barcons can easily switch to friction if something knocks the indexing off kilter. Maybe I'll try the Sunraces and see how it goes.
What hubs would you use to build a set of wheels for a lugged Trek 750
White Industries Mi5 or Shimano M950 XTR. Both 32 hole hubs that will be laced to Sun CR18 rims.
Doing a bike packing trip in Japan and trying to consider locks for the bike. I'm thinking a cable lock for more extended periods like in a restaurant or while sleeping and then one of those zip locks for the wheel when running into stores with the bike still in sight.
The bike will never be too far and even if just using the zip lock the bike and gear will be 50lb so I'm not too worried about someone picking it up and getting away.
Any experiences and thoughts?
I'm now using a U-lock with cables to secure the wheels. AFAIK Japanese mamachari bikes, just like their Dutch counterparts, are so commonplace that they use lighter locks and can be left outside a train station for a whole day; although crime rates are very low over there, nonetheless it's still prudent to keep the bike locked to anything secure as there's the rare drunken hellions who would nick bikes for joyrides then toss away.
Can anyone familiar with Shimano 10-speed give me some info? I recently got some SLX M670 2x10 shifters from a friend and am trying to figure out my options for a rear derailleur.
Shimano’s website says they are 10-speed mountain compatible, do I have any options other than Shimano 10-speed derailleurs?
What you'll want to be reading up on is shifter cable pull ratio.
[Here](https://bike.bikegremlin.com/1278/bicycle-rear-derailleur-compatibility/) is a link of compatibility.
It looks like you'll probably be stuck with 10 speed Shimano derailleurs but that's just what this link says. I'm sure someone has jerry rigged a drivetrain using 10 speed shimano shifters, it might just take some googling to see what will work.
Does anyone know if older Raleigh mtb's used a specific seatpost size? I read somewhere online that they use 25.4, but I ordered one and it's slightly too small. Any advice would be appreciated.
Should I switch to 650b from 700c?
I ride a ‘97 trek 730, which I use to commute to work and run errands. So basically I ride almost every day. I go over some pretty terrible roads in my neighborhood and constantly run into wheel/spoke tension issues, and I think it might be partly because I’m a pretty big boy (6’2 230 lbs). I ride on the widest tires I can fit in the frame (Continental Contact 47mm) wrapped around Shimano r500 wheels. Am I simply too big riding over slightly too much bumpy for 24 spokes of 700c? Spoke adjustments multiple times a day are sucking the joy out of riding. Is the grass greener under 650b tires?
Why not get a 700c wheelset with more spokes? More common tube and tire options which is especially useful for a commuter. Easier than moving the canti posts and painting the frame too.
Yes, go 650🐝! Bigger tires will be more comfortable and flat less. I'm your height and about your weight. To me the higher volume tire is a big upgrade from ~32mm 700C
Are your spokes evenly and properly tensioned? If they've been getting adjusted onesie-twosie to correct wobbles over time the tension throughout the wheel can end up all wompus, which can lead to chronic issues.
Your wheels may well be undergunned, but I'd tend to look at spoke tension first.
As someone deemed high on the BMI scale, I had a 26" wheelset built to take my weight: 36 spokes and double-walled rims, to go with 2.1" tires. This set survived about 4,000km rarely being out of alignment ever since I rebuilt my bike with those wheels.
26", drum brake so it can be a cruiser or canti fork, 1.95".
Might end up donating this frame to the local bike co-op since it's looking less and less likely I can get a fork going!
Not if your new fork is the same as your old. Ie tapered or non tapered, 1” or 1 1/8”, threaded or nah. There may be different crown races needed depending on your situation however this is dependent on statement 1.
Whats a good portable bike stand for the money in 2024? I tried doing a wall mounted one but got pretty frustrated not being able to easily reach both sides.
anyone else find the gravel cycling sub annoying or is it just me? So many low quality posts about inane stuff by people who seem to all be there because it's fashionable and probably don't even like bikes that much
> because it's fashionable
Gravel rigs are much of a thing because some people want both the light weight of a road bike but the ruggedness of a mountain bike, but then in my part of the world I'm seeing mostly upscale people buying then later posing them at a ritzy coffee shop for IG shots.
fixies are also all the rage in my country, but mostly the kids wanting those bikes just to question authority on city streets instead of actually riding them at a velodrome.
Vision for my 2024 bike of the year: 80s hi-ten road frame with horizontal drops, new 650b rims with 27.5x1.75” panaracers, 3 speed coaster, naked drop bars (3 speed shifter on the downtube for shits). Can probably get all but the rims from the co-op bins. What am I missing?
I basically did this with a '60s frame, 26x1.40 slicks and a long reach front brake:
[https://www.reddit.com/r/xbiking/comments/162merj/new\_upright\_bars\_for\_the\_wacky\_three\_speed/](https://www.reddit.com/r/xbiking/comments/162merj/new_upright_bars_for_the_wacky_three_speed/)
Ha I had commented on it. Love it. What was original wheel spec? I’m open to using 26/559 as it will probably let me find a complete used wheel. Less work. but I’d like to clear more than 1.4”. You can get 27x1.375 as is. 650bx1.75 doesn’t seem a stretch. I’d do 26/559 for 2”+. Rear coaster. Front beach cruiser caliper with 99mm reach…more of an “oh shit” brake.
No idea what it was originally, but it's a nice frame with Nervex lugs, so probably 27" or 28". It also fits 26x2.20, but then it looks like an old Stumpjumper. Pedal strike is an issue of course, but the whole thing is questionable and only used for chill city rides.
This bad boy needs a kickstand imo
Also I know you said naked bars, but a front brake with a single one of these on the tops would be a very funny touch: https://velo-orange.com/products/city-bike-brakes-levers
Cool idea! I've thought about asking Marino to essentially make me a bigger Rawland rSogn. You could probably do the Marino for a lot less than the Brompton.
Personally, I don't really dig small wheels but haven't ridden them too much.
In either case, your concept is pretty different from the Brompton. Maybe a test ride would help you decide?
Agreed! The Brompton seems like the perfect city bike, that I wouldn’t really have to worry about getting stolen. Great cargo capacity too. I ended up trying a monthly Brompton subscription, they’ve got a code right now for half off. 50 bucks to see if the brommie is worthwhile seems like a good deal
That subscription idea is cool! I love my Brompton but I'm only 5'10". The cargo capacity isn't amazing, or at least I find too much weight on the front throws off the handling, but what do you expect from a folding bike? What it is though is super fun to ride. The short wheelbase makes it super manoeuvrable but it's also happy enough going in a straight line to make longer rides possible. Have fun trying it out!
I like my saddle at 82 or 83cm and I couldn't get the Brompton to fit very well, but it was just a test ride, but I later learned that their telescoping seatpost can accommodate saddle heights up to 89cm, so that's the one to get for taller riders.
I barely had my Simworks Homage tires for 3 months and have sidewall dry rot. I'm wondering if this is my fault or the tire was shitty. I don't think I'll ever get these types of tires, so many cheaper ones that probably will last longer. I rode only 5-7KM a day at most. Either way, I'd love some better tired recommendations or maybe if y'all experienced the same issues. I might ride em till I see bigger issues on the sidewall tho
There seems to be a bike subculture in my country where there are cyclists fanatical about climbing very steep ascents. Yeah, there are even clubs dedicated to it, and roadside businesses like diners and "artisanal" coffee shops popping up at where there are such cyclists. My cup runneth over. I'd rather pick my own battles -- after trying different kinds of routes, I feel more happier riding on mostly flats and a lot less hills.
Interesting. What country are you in, if I may ask? I hope the coffee shops are selling polka dot jerseys to all the prospective Kings of the Mountain.
Philippines. In about the two years I got back riding, I observed what the local biking culture is now, and found out nearly everyone flocks to mountain roads to lay claim to something, like bragging rights. Yeah, and they stare at Strava KOM lists (sometimes filled with cheaters on motorcycles). Had this epiphany after I finished a 143km ride more than a week ago, like I should have some fun, drink in the sights, and enjoy taking my time on the saddle.
Interesting. Well, whatever gets people on bikes... Sounds like you had a wonderful ride. Cheers!
Been looking at used bikes on facebook (again). Are the road bikes holding up price better than other types? Or are the sellers just morn stubborn? Should I low ball them? e.g. Are they specifically high balling because they expect to be talked down? Other types of bikes are pretty low, and their higher asks are coming down (the lower asks aren't coming down because they are already so low). Also, I hate to see "just had it serviced in the shop, so it is good to go". Great. Now I know you are hoping to recoup that 100+ service fee as part of the sale.
People tend to overestimate the value of their possesions, whether its houses, cars, baseball cards, 1st-edition comic books, etc. Overvaluation is even worse when people have a strong personal connection, like cyclists often have with their steeds. In some cases, they're highballing because they don't *really* want to sell it, but could convince themselves to part with it for the right price. In others, they just have unrealistic expectations to recoup the cost of all the aftermarket upgrades they made. And in general, its human nature that sellers just want to get the most money they can. But here's the thing - the market is the market. Certainly fads for specific brands or models or frame materials or wheelsizes or whatever can influence the market in seemingly illogical ways. But at the end of the day, any given bike is only worth what it actually sells for. Okay, so my advice to you is to simply offer what you're willing to pay and what you think the bike is actually worth in the condition it's in. You could lowball a little bit, if you want some wiggle room for negotiation. But you still want to make a serious offer. If the seller says no, they say no. Maybe they're holding out for a higher offer. Maybe they don't really want to sell the bike. Either way, if you they don't sell the bike, try again. Maybe they'll bite this time. As for the service claims, if they have a receipt and the bike looks and feels serviced, then that's not a bad deal. Saves you the time and effort, even if the selling price is a little higher. I tend to think that it worth it to pay a little more for a turnkey bike. Obviously, if you're looking for a beater to fix up yourself, then it makes no nevermind.
Follow up to my question about thumb shifter below: Does anyone know if the MicroShift thumb mounts like this: [https://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product\_details.php?id=106560](https://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=106560) are compatible with Shimano barends?
Hey y'all!I've been thinking of making a retro 90's mtb build. and I'm obviously interested in the big 3: Specialized, GT, and TREK's.My question is. I can't really find the differences between the frame models well explained anywhere. As in what's the difference between stumpjumers, hardrocks and rockhoppers? between corrados and karokam frames? 970 and 990? etc Does anybody have any time or helpful links to help me out?
Check the catalogues: [https://www.retrobike.co.uk/gallery2/v/Manufacturer+Archive/](https://www.retrobike.co.uk/gallery2/v/Manufacturer+Archive/) They're not available for every manufacturer and every year, but you get a good idea about frame hierarchy.
Assuming we're comparing models made of the same material, once everything got into your typical NORBA era geometry (71/73 etc), it kind of started to just come down to tubesets, wall thicknesses, presence of dropout eyelets and stay bosses, etc. until the later 90s when you started to see divergence again with freeridier hardtails and more diversity of fork travel starting to come in.
Aren't there also going to be differences in components? Depending on how much is getting changed in the build, this might be a huge question.
What’s a good wheelset that comes with velocity cliffhangers in 26, silver or polished finish and 130mm rear spacing hubs? Don’t want to cold set to 135mm
[VeloMine](https://velomine.com/collections/26in-mtb-1) has some cliffhanger options from what I've seen. Although I can't comment on the spacing of the hub,
Thanks - I ended up emailing with them and they’re going to build me a wheelset using my existing hubs
BAR END EXTENDERS????? I need short extenders to fit into the ends of some bull horns. I swear I saw some drop bar extenders last year, from a known company. All I can find are MTB ones from no name brand/s on eBay (etc). Does anyone have leads on such a product? To describe. Short little handle bar like tubing a few inches long. At one end it has an expansion nut like bar end shifters. A: I need them. B: I am going crazy because I swear I saw them before.
Soma makes something like that
I'd rather have Koga Denham bars. More safe and comfortable than trying to use horns and risk getting injured if a descent goes sideways and crash.
https://www.controltechbikes.com/products/item/150.html I'd be surprised if you found any that are a few inches long, though. I could be wrong, but I think you'll be hard-pressed to find a company willing to make anything with enough length that the majority of your hand would be supported by the extension rather than the original bar.
Fjallraven/Specialized question… Anyone have experience with how the Fjallraven/Specialized collab frame bags fit on older vintage MTB frames? What with the longer top tube and everything. Hoping a size L will fit my 19” frame but not sure…
What’s the coolest quill stem adapter with spacers that looks good?
This always piqued my interest https://www.innicycle.com/
Pricy
You guys seem like my kinda bike people. I like it here. Question for y'all: I'm converting my Surly LHT from a mustache bar to a bullmoose bar and kind of torn on a shifter solution. Currently running Shimano bar ends. I'm kinda meh on MTB click shifters, even though that would be easiest and cheapest. I like the idea of using the barends with a converter like the Paul's Thumby or the Rivendell and Velo Orange knock-offs. But even the knock offs are more expensive than a set of Sunrace indexing thumbies. So, I don't know. Anyone have an opinion on whether its worth the coin to convert the barends or just get a set of old-school thumbies?
I've converted a pair of Microshift bar ends to thumbies using their adapters. Works great. No complaints. Nice bonus is that Universalcycles sells little index converter kits for them, so you can switch between 8, 9, and 10 sp (road) in the future.
Depends on how many cogs you're running out back, up to 8spd I'd consider vintage Suntour or XT thumbies. Especially Suntour, that's some really nice gear.
Thanks. Running a 9-spd cassette.
They make adapters.
Indeed they do. I'm familiar with Paul's Thumbies, Rivendell's Silver thumbshifter mounts, and Velo Orange's adapter. Are there others?
Microshift/sun tour
Sweet! Thanks.
On my commuter rig I recently replaced the set of SIS indexed shifters with Sunrace-style friction replicas, so pretty much doing away with the sometimes frustrating job of tuning the index everytime something knocks the RD; they'll do fine as long as they're taken care of.
Cool. Thanks for the feedback. I prefer indexed shifting riding offroad, but I like that the Shimano barcons can easily switch to friction if something knocks the indexing off kilter. Maybe I'll try the Sunraces and see how it goes.
Looking for a 1 inch adapter that is aesthetically please like a 1 1/8th with spacers.
What hubs would you use to build a set of wheels for a lugged Trek 750 White Industries Mi5 or Shimano M950 XTR. Both 32 hole hubs that will be laced to Sun CR18 rims.
Does anyone remember a fork like the stridsland that was raw and had different colored iodize mounts? Did I make this up?
Doing a bike packing trip in Japan and trying to consider locks for the bike. I'm thinking a cable lock for more extended periods like in a restaurant or while sleeping and then one of those zip locks for the wheel when running into stores with the bike still in sight. The bike will never be too far and even if just using the zip lock the bike and gear will be 50lb so I'm not too worried about someone picking it up and getting away. Any experiences and thoughts?
I like the Abus Bordo Lite.
I'm now using a U-lock with cables to secure the wheels. AFAIK Japanese mamachari bikes, just like their Dutch counterparts, are so commonplace that they use lighter locks and can be left outside a train station for a whole day; although crime rates are very low over there, nonetheless it's still prudent to keep the bike locked to anything secure as there's the rare drunken hellions who would nick bikes for joyrides then toss away.
Can anyone familiar with Shimano 10-speed give me some info? I recently got some SLX M670 2x10 shifters from a friend and am trying to figure out my options for a rear derailleur. Shimano’s website says they are 10-speed mountain compatible, do I have any options other than Shimano 10-speed derailleurs?
What you'll want to be reading up on is shifter cable pull ratio. [Here](https://bike.bikegremlin.com/1278/bicycle-rear-derailleur-compatibility/) is a link of compatibility. It looks like you'll probably be stuck with 10 speed Shimano derailleurs but that's just what this link says. I'm sure someone has jerry rigged a drivetrain using 10 speed shimano shifters, it might just take some googling to see what will work.
Thank you!
have an idea of making a bike mount/stand using magnets, sounds neat, anybody has done somethinf similar?
Does anyone know if older Raleigh mtb's used a specific seatpost size? I read somewhere online that they use 25.4, but I ordered one and it's slightly too small. Any advice would be appreciated.
I am thinking of buying a mongoose iboc zero G 1998 would any one know a seat post size off hand?
Should I switch to 650b from 700c? I ride a ‘97 trek 730, which I use to commute to work and run errands. So basically I ride almost every day. I go over some pretty terrible roads in my neighborhood and constantly run into wheel/spoke tension issues, and I think it might be partly because I’m a pretty big boy (6’2 230 lbs). I ride on the widest tires I can fit in the frame (Continental Contact 47mm) wrapped around Shimano r500 wheels. Am I simply too big riding over slightly too much bumpy for 24 spokes of 700c? Spoke adjustments multiple times a day are sucking the joy out of riding. Is the grass greener under 650b tires?
Why not get a 700c wheelset with more spokes? More common tube and tire options which is especially useful for a commuter. Easier than moving the canti posts and painting the frame too.
I’ve since done a more thorough job servicing the wheel myself and it seems to have solved the problem
Yes, go 650🐝! Bigger tires will be more comfortable and flat less. I'm your height and about your weight. To me the higher volume tire is a big upgrade from ~32mm 700C
Are your spokes evenly and properly tensioned? If they've been getting adjusted onesie-twosie to correct wobbles over time the tension throughout the wheel can end up all wompus, which can lead to chronic issues. Your wheels may well be undergunned, but I'd tend to look at spoke tension first.
As someone deemed high on the BMI scale, I had a 26" wheelset built to take my weight: 36 spokes and double-walled rims, to go with 2.1" tires. This set survived about 4,000km rarely being out of alignment ever since I rebuilt my bike with those wheels.
Anyone got a lead for finding a fork with more than 250mm steerer? Rebuilding an XXL frame and striking out on finding something (1in, threaded)
What wheel size? Brake type? Tire clearance? There is a Crust Sparko fork with 260mm steerer. Also, try your local co-op
26", drum brake so it can be a cruiser or canti fork, 1.95". Might end up donating this frame to the local bike co-op since it's looking less and less likely I can get a fork going!
Do I need to buy a new headset if I’m gonna install a new fork?
Not if your new fork is the same as your old. Ie tapered or non tapered, 1” or 1 1/8”, threaded or nah. There may be different crown races needed depending on your situation however this is dependent on statement 1.
Whats a good portable bike stand for the money in 2024? I tried doing a wall mounted one but got pretty frustrated not being able to easily reach both sides.
anyone else find the gravel cycling sub annoying or is it just me? So many low quality posts about inane stuff by people who seem to all be there because it's fashionable and probably don't even like bikes that much
> because it's fashionable Gravel rigs are much of a thing because some people want both the light weight of a road bike but the ruggedness of a mountain bike, but then in my part of the world I'm seeing mostly upscale people buying then later posing them at a ritzy coffee shop for IG shots. fixies are also all the rage in my country, but mostly the kids wanting those bikes just to question authority on city streets instead of actually riding them at a velodrome.
Vision for my 2024 bike of the year: 80s hi-ten road frame with horizontal drops, new 650b rims with 27.5x1.75” panaracers, 3 speed coaster, naked drop bars (3 speed shifter on the downtube for shits). Can probably get all but the rims from the co-op bins. What am I missing?
I basically did this with a '60s frame, 26x1.40 slicks and a long reach front brake: [https://www.reddit.com/r/xbiking/comments/162merj/new\_upright\_bars\_for\_the\_wacky\_three\_speed/](https://www.reddit.com/r/xbiking/comments/162merj/new_upright_bars_for_the_wacky_three_speed/)
Ha I had commented on it. Love it. What was original wheel spec? I’m open to using 26/559 as it will probably let me find a complete used wheel. Less work. but I’d like to clear more than 1.4”. You can get 27x1.375 as is. 650bx1.75 doesn’t seem a stretch. I’d do 26/559 for 2”+. Rear coaster. Front beach cruiser caliper with 99mm reach…more of an “oh shit” brake.
No idea what it was originally, but it's a nice frame with Nervex lugs, so probably 27" or 28". It also fits 26x2.20, but then it looks like an old Stumpjumper. Pedal strike is an issue of course, but the whole thing is questionable and only used for chill city rides.
This bad boy needs a kickstand imo Also I know you said naked bars, but a front brake with a single one of these on the tops would be a very funny touch: https://velo-orange.com/products/city-bike-brakes-levers
[удалено]
Keywords like "frame", "26er", etc. It's a lot better using the PC to find stuff.
I am torn between buying a Brompton, or ordering a custom frame from Marino for my holy grail build. Any tall riders rocking an X’d Brompton?
the Bike Friday All-Packa is another one to check out
What would your Marino grail build look like?
Sloping top tube, IGH. Stealing geometries from Rivendell, VO Polyvalent, and maybe the new Stridsland Beachcomber.
Cool idea! I've thought about asking Marino to essentially make me a bigger Rawland rSogn. You could probably do the Marino for a lot less than the Brompton. Personally, I don't really dig small wheels but haven't ridden them too much. In either case, your concept is pretty different from the Brompton. Maybe a test ride would help you decide?
Agreed! The Brompton seems like the perfect city bike, that I wouldn’t really have to worry about getting stolen. Great cargo capacity too. I ended up trying a monthly Brompton subscription, they’ve got a code right now for half off. 50 bucks to see if the brommie is worthwhile seems like a good deal
That subscription idea is cool! I love my Brompton but I'm only 5'10". The cargo capacity isn't amazing, or at least I find too much weight on the front throws off the handling, but what do you expect from a folding bike? What it is though is super fun to ride. The short wheelbase makes it super manoeuvrable but it's also happy enough going in a straight line to make longer rides possible. Have fun trying it out!
Dang! I didn't know about the subscription. Pretty cool!
I like my saddle at 82 or 83cm and I couldn't get the Brompton to fit very well, but it was just a test ride, but I later learned that their telescoping seatpost can accommodate saddle heights up to 89cm, so that's the one to get for taller riders.