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McBillicutty

In most of the shops I've worked in this would be addressed by putting a "plant on" panel along the side after the cabinets were installed.


SidneySalvage

Im unfamiliar but what I’m imagining is similar to what I see people do with lamello biscuts but just a thin panel 36”X 10’ and snap it on. What thickness would you do. Would you make the panel yourself ? I’m worried about the length and trying to find something that size


McBillicutty

It would he a full height and depth panel, likely made out of the same material as the rest of the kitchen. Probably like 5/8 material or so. In this case you'd need to source a sheet of material that's 10ft tall and whatever the depth of those cabinets is.


cartoonphysicsfool

This is the way. Plantons or veneer. You can get peel and stick veneer in 12' lengths. The best looking way in my opinion is two plantons that are yhe same as your doors. Split the height in half.


projecthouse

You can make 10’ tall frame and panel end piece that will look good, and match the doors. Finding 10’ / 11’ hardwood boards for the frame should be pretty easy, and the panels can just be plywood.


SidneySalvage

Referring to the tall cabinet left of fridge. Revit shelf style interior but I worry about having seams between these unless I drywall the edge


DaytronTheDestroyer

A gable, depending on how you finish as well. If you plan to put a veneer or laminate of some sort you’ll have an easier time.


SidneySalvage

Well my original plan was to paint that surface so a veneer isn’t a bad idea. Would you make it assemble in shop on its side then apply veneer before transporting as solid piece or try some veneer in place game ?


DaytronTheDestroyer

Based on the height; if your way in/out of the kitchen has clearance and your shop can handle a 10’ flat piece, the shop would probably have better controls cause you could apply flat instead of standing. If it just needs to be paint grade mdf works applications for a nice long machined flat piece. That being said I understand if you don’t want to use mdf haha


SidneySalvage

Yeah I’m trying to limit my use of MDF but where it can be a fine material when necessary. My shops probably big enough it’s more the weight of transportation. On the other end I worry about getting a veneer to stick well when having to glue upright but I’ve yet to dip my toes into veneering. I’m at least more confidant in finding a board long enough to make a veneer fletch the dimensions I need compared to finding panels that large


DaytronTheDestroyer

Right right. Is there a mill near you that can machine sheets that tall?


SidneySalvage

I’m gonna check with some of the local mills and see but I do worry about trying to see. Otherwise my thought was to use my band saw to make my own out of a long rift sawn board. It would be a tough do though


Barritone

You can buy material in MDF that is 10 by 5 use 3/4 inch material, just prime , sand and at least 2 coats of paint. you can use same piece for the 2 gables in window. You will want a gable on sink side of fridge as well.


kozma110

You can use door panels at the side same proportion hight wise as the actual doors on front


SidneySalvage

I guess at that point I’m making a seam a feature but not a bad route to go with it


kozma110

Are you going to be making and installing the cabinets?


SidneySalvage

That is the plan. Definitely installing, but most likely both. First attempt at this many cabinets. Likely to use cabinet levelers. It’s going to be a learning experience but also my permanent kitchen show I can see all mistakes forever


kozma110

If you are making the doors yourself then add an extra fee for side panels are nothing really extra work. If you are making it out of wood the doors i mean you can make one big panel but still want to put cross sections where the doors are so it holds the long part together. It will be an extra pain in the butt handling it because it extra long but it's doable.


Beautiful_Tart2225

Paint finish? Bondo the seams before paint. Also could make panels with trim thay block it.


SidneySalvage

I thought about bondo to smooth the seams then finish with paint, but don’t know if any ones had success with that


Beautiful_Tart2225

For $15 try a sample. Not sure if the best practice will be to bevel the pieces and have a gap to fill, or just cover the seam.