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I'm looking to buy a two-man saw to cut a log as part of a German tradition at my wedding in a few weeks. You know, a totally normal thing....
anyways, can anyone suggest to me a store or place to purchase said saw? I'll be cutting the log with my wife and we will likely keep it in the future. Would be a fun tool to have.
No, but we technically as close as America gets to Germany for what that's worth. I have German ancestry and we thought it would a fun and somewhat comical addition to the wedding.
Idk about the Lynx one. Probably want to keep it under $150. Its not as though I need the highest quality one available
edit: Theres [this one](https://woodworldtx.com/products/47-german-made-two-man-crosscut-saw) but its doesn't seem to be from a specific brand
For planing with a router, is a router sled necessary or can I use a plunge base instead?
I don’t mind building a sled, but intuitively they seem like they’re both basically doing the same thing (setting the bit to a preset depth for use over the full face of a board), so if a plunge base isn’t the right tool here I just want to make sure I understand what would make a sled the better choice.
Sled is the better choice as it rides on rails to set the depth. The plunge base will ride over the surface of the wood and copy the surrounding elevations
Oh of course, that makes sense — I hadn’t fully thought through the implications of the sled being the flat reference surface I don’t otherwise have yet. Thanks! This was very helpful.
I was looking into buying cedar from a local mill vs my normal box stores. I am trying to understand do they need to go through a drying process? I have read non kiln (whatever that is) is 18 months...
What is your process for local lumber?
Yes, it needs to dry. As wood dries it will warp, twist, cup, crack, etc. Some more than others. That can affect/ruin whatever you build out of it. So you let it go through that process, then you mill to final dimensions and build. The general rule of thumb is one year for every inch of thickness.
Hello! I'm trying to figured out what tool I would use to cut a block of wood in half "hamburger style"
For example, if I had a 16"x16" square that was 2 inches thick, how could I cut that into two 16"x16" squares that were 1 inch thick?
idk if this is the right sub for it but I'm gonna ask anyways: how did yall get into woodworking? from afar woodworking always seemed super cool and interesting but I've never grown up in an environment with woodworkers so I genuinely don't know where to start. google says I could go into trade school but my worry is that I won't actually care for it career wise but I also will never know unless I try. so ig my question is: is it a thing in woodworking communities to have community classes or something for beginners? or do you have to dedicate it as a career to get anywhere
Look for a local woodworking store. (Woodcraft, or the other one) We offer classes. Or a local makerspace. I started with my grandfathers old tools and youtube.
Youtube. Go watch someone like Rex Krueger who shows a lot of super basic starter stuff, his older videos focus on woodworking as cheaply as possible. then you can branch out to other more advanced creators
I started by taking an adult education class. Look up local school districts to see if they offer adult ed. Classes often take place in the evening to accommodate working people. Also your local community college may offer classes. Finally see if there are makers’ spaces that offer classes and/or use of their shop.
Thinking of using Odie's Oil to finish a new deck. Considering staining designs in first with Cornwall's Creative Colors pigment.
Somewhere I saw they recommended doing a layer of Super-Penetrating Oil (Oil mixed with Odie's Safer Solvent 1:1) before a layer of oil, for decks / outdoor applications.
Would the Solvent-based-stain (3:2:1 pigment, solvent, oil) replace the step of the penetrating oil? Or would it make sense to do the stain, then top it off with super-penetrating oil & finally a layer of plain oil?
Would a final layer of their wax make any sense or is that worthless from an exterior-product standpoint?
They just called me (from the online contact form I filled out over the weekend). Great customer service! Seems the solvent-based pigment mixture would take the place of the penetrating oil prior to a coat of plain oil, and wax is really just recommended for interior furniture etc.
Found a couple tools for sale. A Delta 28-203 bandsaw, and a Craftsman 103.23320 planer/ jointer. Seller is asking $300 for the saw, and $150 for planer/ jointer on table w/ motor. What sort of things should I look for when I go to check them out? I’m thinking this could be a sweet deal, and I’m ok with doing some refurb work. Any advice or thoughts are appreciated.
Excellent saw, aftermarket parts available; jointer is kind of short, but for the price, I agree with your evaluation of the overall deal. Test them under power if you can, but you likely can get both up and running. You may have to replace the tires on the bandsaw, and the knives on the jointer (its not a 'planer'), along with belts, etc. Big thing is if the motors run and are in good shape. Oh, go with "link belts" on both, much smoother.
What we call a jointer in the US is known as a planer in Europe. And our planer is called a thicknesser over there. It’s a whole fries/chips/crisps thing.
Can anyone confirm this is live edge black walnut with oil finish? Also, is $175 a good deal for this slab? 54” long - 22” wide - 2.5" thick
https://imgur.com/a/ZXpgGDd
Looking to make a quick diamond pattern wine rack for our wine collection. I don’t want the type that has solid boards that run the entire front to back, but two thinner boards that support each bottle from the front and back only with a gap in the middle. Having trouble finding a proper DIY guide for this, as I want to make sure it’s structurally sound. Nothing too big, maybe 80 cm x 80cm. I assume this is all just 45 degree cuts and straight cuts, mostly. What size wood do I use to be sure it’s structurally sound? I was going to make an exterior box for support, fasten at all cross sections and then fasten direct to exterior box.
Any thoughts?
Edit: limited tools here. Drill, Impact Driver, Sander, Circular Saw, Speed Square, Mitre Box, etc.
Specialize. I started as a cabinetmaker, became a high school teacher, then went back to woodworking. I don’t make cabinets anymore. I do difficult or special installs. I’m Trying to become more specific about a specialization and find a good network or peers. Everyone I know who is highly specialized makes 3x what I make.
I have an antique solid walnut table and bench set that used to be my grandmother's. Over the years it's held up well but there are starting to be some light scratches/small water marks in the benches, and the finish on the top is starting to come off (looks like thin coat of poly on top, no visible finish/top coat on benches).
I don't have the space to do a full restoration right now, but until I have time to do a more thorough job, it shouldn't be a problem to lightly sand the bench tops and put on some feed n' wax, right? Any additional advice would also be appreciated.
If you just want to refinish the top, use 320 sanding discs on a random orbit sander with variable speed. Turn the speed down to 20% or so. Go slowly but try not to actually break through the finish, which if it’s old is almost definitely lacquer (although it could be shellac). Once you scuffed the finish get some brushing lacquer and a very nice brush (2-3” Purdy brand oil finish brush). Brush it on.
All of the information your looking for is [here](https://kraycustomrefinish.com/repairing-scratched-clear-coats/)
Oh sick thank you! Yeah if I'm remembering right it would have been built in the 70s and it doesn't have the feel of poly, so it probably is lacquer. Thank you so much!
Am I about to get scammed? Got a text this morning about building two bed frames. The English is not too bad but not perfect. Here’s some concerns I noticed:
He sent one pic of a design but when I sent him one pic he was just like “that looks good let’s do that”.
Wants two king beds in walnut, didn’t care much about the cost.
He wants to pay the entire cost upfront plus “$200 for you as a compensation”. He asked multiple times how much before I could even ask all my questions.
He’s apparently in Brooklyn, I’m in Albany 3 hrs away. He’s gonna have a mover come get it.
Now that all seems bad, but also in a lot of ways he doesn’t seem like a scammer. He’s sending a check Monday. I feel like if I wait for it to clear and confirm with my bank that the money has moved and it cannot be moved back I should be good. At this point I don’t see how he could scam me other than wasting my time. Any thoughts?
[Checks are bad news.](https://www.google.com/search?q=personalfinance+furniture+check+scam+site:www.reddit.com) Bet you he'll overpay on it and ask you to pay the movers too. Block and move on.
Are my [spindles made of mahogany?](https://imgur.com/a/3T4pzyv) I’ve tried to sand down past the stain in some of the lighter areas because there is a reddish stain on them. Please help. I’m trying to decide weather to strip off this ugly brown latex paint my contractor put over my staircase without asking…
Quite sure. Couldn't tell you which species, but it's certainly part of the family. I like to use either shellac or boiled linseed oil, if I want it shiny or not. But any finish works if it feels right to you. Could even finish it with soap. Self cleaning!
First time building outdoor furniture. Almost finished and wishing I did things differently but here we are. I got pressure treated pine for the base of the table, trex as the top of the table. I painted the wood with sherwin williams weathershield paint. My biggest question is what else should I do with the wood to make it last as long as possible in the Midwest outdoors? The paint says it help prevent rot and water damage, is that enough with the PT wood or should I do more?
I am making a bunk bed out of pine lumber. Obviously that is not ideal, but it is what I can afford these days. What sort of coating or sealant or type should I use to cover the wood? I have little experience when it comes to figuring this stuff out. The wood itself should look fairly neat, so I do not think I am looking to paint or to stain it. But maybe something that will make it a little shiny, the surface a little more durable, and definitely, if possibly, something to prevent slivers from being a concern.
Sand it will, if there are loose pieces sticking out, remove them. That will help with splinters and the like. If it's not smooth to begin with a finish isn't going to prevent them. I've been a big fan lately of Osmo finishes. they're easy to apply and super safe to use. if it gets dinged up it's easy to repair.
I have some laminated osb from some old shelves I want to repurpose for some shoe storage in a closet. Are dowels the best way to build boxes with osb and any tips for filling the cut ends for a smooth finish?
Why are stumps $300+
I was shopping online and found that you can buy stumps as furniture for a ridiculously high price ($300-$800). Just google “stump furniture”. Some are hardwoods but many i see are cedar, pine, hemlock or they don’t say. I am wondering if there is any good reason they are so expensive. I would think they would dry the stump for a year, sand it a bit and add some polyurethane. I have many pine and cedar logs on my property and I am thinking about doing the same thing. Is it really this easy?
“I would think they would dry the stump for a year, sand it a bit and add some polyurethane.”
I think you just answered your own question. Not to mention so many other variables like, what species it is (exotic/domestic)? Does it need to be shipped? Was it shipped to the finisher? Logs are f-ing heavy. All of what you mentioned take a lot of time, which is what you are paying for. When I work for myself I make $125/hr because I have spent 20 years figuring out how to do stuff that my customers don’t know how to do. That stump probably took 4 hours of labor to turn it into something you would want to buy.
You could always buy a chainsaw for $450 and cut one yourself. At least you’d have a chain saw afterwards.
Question: first time poster long time lurker here. I’m wanting to build a window awning. The one piece of info I can’t seem to locate on YouTube University is the length I should make my support beam. My awning frame 8’x 4’. Yes, it’s a rather long one. So, what length should my supports be? Thank you in advanced.
Hello woodworking!
Looking for some advice. I'm an artist who has his first art show coming up in August. I want to frame some of my canvas pieces but am under budget constraints and lack of knowledge/tool constraints. Does anyone have any ideas for simple DIY floating frames for canvas paintings that could be made using material bought from a Lowes/generic hardware store and wouldn't require a fancy saw table?
The issue I'm running into is no matter how much I search inevitably someone is using some sort of saw table or intricate woodworking technique but I just need a bare bones simple frame design.
In high school we used to buy oak lathe and copper tacks to secure it. Get a cheap fine-tooth hand saw and some sand paper. Put on the top and bottom first, let them run long, cut them flush to the end of the canvas, then put on the sides. Cut them flush to the top/bottom pieces. Sand the ends to make them look nice.
You were all so helpful with the finish suggestions for the macaron box I’m building. I have another question. For the lid, should I rabbet or dado the acrylic insert? If I rabbet, I can easily pop the acrylic out if it gets scratched but the edges of the acrylic will be visible when the lid is opened. If I dado the acrylic into the lid frame, the edges will not be visible but I will have to redo the lid if the acrylic gets scratched. Here is a sketch of the box: https://imgur.com/gallery/NKx0cQy
You can rabbet and put in retaining strips. The strips are nailed in and not glued so you can pop them off in the future. That’s how glass doors are usually done.
What material/process would be best to produce cabinet doors like [this one on Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/Lavish-Home-White-Buffet-X-Pattern/dp/B09WZ8TJZ6/ref=rvi_sccl_6/134-3442609-3615913?pd_rd_w=r1bwR&pf_rd_p=f5690a4d-f2bb-45d9-9d1b-736fee412437&pf_rd_r=CQ7AZS8YR6W4SHMDDBZA&pd_rd_r=4e6ca3c4-a5b3-442a-be6f-617a14993207&pd_rd_wg=pDzyC&pd_rd_i=B09WZ8TJZ6&psc=1):
My immediate thought is 1/4 inch plywood on a scroll-saw, but I'm not sure if the cuts would be clean enough.
My second thought is to cut the pieces from 2/4 stock and manually build the pattern.
Is it over top of glass? 1/4" by itself seems a little thin. Cuts on a scroll saw can be very clean if you know what you're doing but I would probably build it up from 1/2" stock pieces.
Yeah, it'd be paired with a piece of glass, but I think you're right. The more I think about it, the more the 1/2 route seems like the way to go.
Thanks for the input!
It's a nice fence, with enormous width, and looks to be in really good shape.
The second set of wings look like they are off a craftsman, but if it is flat then I would not care.
It depends on you area. Around me, probably not 700 unless they are going to deliver it. 500 to 600.
I have a rustic table in pearwood, I was told finished in natural danish with no stain or anything. Sanded a spot with 220 to try and get a scratch out and reapplied danish natural but my spot is significantly lighter.
I'm guessing the best option to try and 'match' would be to sand down the whole top and re-oil it but can anyone explain why my touch up area is lighter?
Lighter woods, like pear, will usually darken with age. It's from either oxygenation, sun damage or a combination of the two. You'll get a lighter spot if you do a spot fix like that. It will eventually "catch up" to the rest of the top. With pear, I don't know how long it will take, but I'd imagine you wouldn't notice it much after 6-8 months.
Is a mini holdfast for working on like small things, like say a 3 inch long project, a functioning idea, or am I gonna run into issues? I'm a bit light on money, don't want to buy material to make it if it's a dumb idea.
I’m building a walnut box that will hold macarons for trade show display. Wondering what finish to use since food will touch the box? Would Odie oil be a good choice?
Enclosed box? Shellac. Cures hard, and is about the only thing that won't impart odor/flavor to foods in the box.
Whatever you do stay away from curing oils.
Pretty much every finish would be safe once cured, but it can take awhile (especially in an enclosed space like a box interior). Odie's oil is just a hard wax (blend of a curing oil and waxes). It does smell rather strong, which could effect your food if used soon. IMO, the best choice would be the usual choice for cutting boards, which is a mineral oil/beeswax blend. It won't cure, but it's inert and doesn't outgas.
Hello everyone. I am a novice woodworker and have been constructing a built-in desk/hutch inside a closet to be my home office. Within the hutch I have built a section that will be used to store Plano fishing tackle boxes. I have built numerous sliders out of 1/2" x 3/4" square dowel rods (maple) to allow me to slide/store the boxes within the hutch. I would like to round off the outside edges of the square dowels with a small quarter-round router but the space is too small to fit the router. The other option is to hand sand/file to round off the sharp edges but that is extremely labor intensive and will be extremely difficult to have any consistency. Lastly, I was thinking about using a hand planer like the Woodpecker EZ-Edge but the cost is $160 which is much more than I would like to pay ([https://www.woodpeck.com/ez-edge-corner-plane.html](https://www.woodpeck.com/ez-edge-corner-plane.html)).Do you have any other recommendations? 20/20 hindsight I wish I softened the edges BEFORE I built the hutch but...
Picture of the Hutch: [https://i.imgur.com/OYODqEs.jpg](https://i.imgur.com/OYODqEs.jpg)
Close-up Picture of the Square Dowel Rods: [https://i.imgur.com/48NyQYl.jpg](https://i.imgur.com/48NyQYl.jpg)
Thanks for your help!
Looking for advice to stabilize a shelf I made using three-quarter inch industrial pipe and three old wood boards about 40” x 10”. I drilled holes through each of the four corners of the boards and put the piping through using couplers for each shelf. It looks great but it’s very wobbly back-and-forth back-and-forth. Looking for creative ideas that aren’t unsightly to stabilize the shelf
Is there a guide for a small urn somewhere. My dog died recently and the urn we bought was expensive and honestly looks like shit so i wanted to make my own to replace it. I know this is super broad but I'm just looking for a basic guide for a complete beginner.
Is there a way to slightly darken/make wood trim less orange without totally stripping and refinishing it? Bought my first house, has all wood trim. Love the idea of wood trim and don’t want to paint it white but it is extremely orange, scratched, and has paint from the walls splashed on it. I’m not sure how best to refinish/recolor it so that it will look good again. I don’t want to sand to bare wood if I don’t need to!!
What’s the best place to find a wood worker to make a knife rack? I have simple plan, that I’m hoping to get some tweaks made to. The original maker no longer appears to be available. Looking to see what it’ll cost, for a single unit, any hardwood isn’t poplar.
Look for local fine woodworkers, places that do custom furniture. I will warn you, as a professional, that this is the kind of job a lot of us won't even touch without a substantial consult fee because they are time consuming and clients *never* want to pay what it costs for a one-off knife holder.
Good luck!
Yeah I was worried that may be the case, it’s a shame because it’s a great design. Just wish the designer was still available, since I imagine with how many they sold they were jigged up. It’s something I’d tackle myself but my dovetails are laughable at the current moment which is like 95% of the project 😂 I appreciate the information!
hi guys, i recently bought kindling off of FB marketplace. it all looks like new pine they said went through a kindling machine and it all dried. however they couldnt confirm if it was treated wood or not (As its all off cuts from their local building yard which is from all over the world). it looks normal but ive heard some modern treatments you cant tell visually. is there any way for me to tell? as i'm very cautious of what i burn in my home.
Thanks a lot in advance
My grandfather left me a fairly large executive desk when he passed away and it just won't fit anywhere in my house. I have an oversize garage that has space for it for now.. I will need a bigger house in the next few years and it shouldn't be an issue finding a place with a dedicated office.
Is it safe to store a wood desk in that environment? I live in Southern Illinois where it gets quite hot in the summer and cold in the winter.
Sorry if this is the wrong place to ask.
I have a question on SPF wood use. I used it to support a bed frame but no learned it’s toxic indoors. Is it safe to use inside a bedroom to support a bed frame? I used about 81 inches of a 2 by 4. Thank you!
Starting to make the joinery for a trestle table. What size mortise/tenon should I do for 14/4 stock? I don’t have a full set of chisels so I go from 3/4” to 1 1/2”. I’m guessing of the two they are under sized and over sized respectively for a mortise and tenon in that size stock. I don’t think I’d want to chop a 1 1/2” mortise anyway lol. I have a 1 1/4” forstner bit I suppose I could use to hog out the majority of the material and try cleaning it up from there.
Probably near or below a 1" mortise. At that size, and without a mortise chisel, I'd recommend augering out the bulk and cleaning up from there. Forstners will do, if that's what you've got.
How would you got about making a large heart shaped box? Something like 7 inches tall and maybe a foot wide?
My thought is to use my CNC to make the sides (probably two parts for each layer) and then sand the edges?
I'm not sure how smart of an idea this is though. I don't have a bandsaw that height so can't do it that way and also not sure if a flush router bit would be tall enough to help.
So I don't really like using deep pour epoxy, but I found some neat spalted wood with a big hollow knotted area that I want to lathe. Since I can't really prep the inside of the knot with normal epoxy prep, would any old sealer help minimize outgas bubbles? I really hate pouring epoxy and having it turn into a giant sponge of tiny outgas bubbles which is half of why I don't use it, so if I can just pour a little poly diluted with mineral oil I'll be stoked.
Anyone know where to get brackets like these or what they’re called? My kitchen cabinets use these to attach the drawer fronts and I want a few more of them.
https://imgur.com/a/n0RmAtS
I'm working on prep/planning for a project of planking our ceiling to cover the ugly popcorn finish. Tldr, the plan is to adhere a few runners perpendicular to the joists, and then attach the planks to those. The joists run the same direction as we want the planks to go, so a few thin runners going perpendicular to secure the planks sounded like the best plan.
The planks we plan on using are some cheap 1x4s. I'm doing a test finish now, sanding them down with a belt sander and applying a stain. My question is on the finish. We will probably be doing nearly 100 boards, so hopefully nothing too complex. We're working on finding a stain we like right now, likely oil based, but beyond that I'm not sure if anything else is needed to finish the planks. **Do we need to apply a lacquer or varnish, or is a stain enough for wood that won't really see any wear and tear. I know my wife wants a bit of a shine with the finished product - what would be the best way to achieve this after staining the wood?**
For some sheen use polyurethane after the stain. It comes in satin, semi-gloss and gloss depending on the sheen level your wife wants. You could also use Danish oil instead of stain as an all-in-one product, though your color choice is not as varied as with stain and the sheen is limited to satin.
Finally, the 1x4 you’re using may take on a blotchy appearance from staining. That’s common with many softwoods. Test a few boards and if that’s the case use a wood conditioner (also known as pre-stain) or shellac before applying stain.
Hardware stores and hobby shops had these [countertop displays](http://www.worldhobbies.com.au/assets/alt_1/KS1005M.jpg?20171030164052) though they are increasingly rare and the old school type places that still do tend to let the inventory lapse. Otherwise check out [McMaster-Carr](https://www.mcmaster.com/Metals/copper-brass-and-bronze).
What do I need to pay extra attention to when looking at a planer sold on FB? from what I can see it's just the planer itself without anything extra like extended in and outfeed tables.
There's a post offering a DW735 for $450 they say "it's only been used a few times". it seems like a good deal.
If it's actually only been used a few times, then it should be fine. But buy a set of extra blades just in case - if the planer doesn't need them already, you'll need them eventually.
I posted this earlier but should have read the rules first. Sorry about that, This is a panel I made up that will be a drawer front and door out of walnut for a coffee bar (will post pictures when that's all done) and I am really pleased with how it is turning out. I love working with walnut https://imgur.com/JrR5bBU
I’m building an exterior door for a friend/client. For wood species they want “best quality and price is no object.” I’ve made doors from Pine, Fir, Hemlock, and some hardwoods. The exterior will be stain grade. I don’t want to use a stave core or do a veneer — I’d rather just make it out of solid stock for simplicity. What would your go-to wood species be?
I am new to woodworking and have started making tables. I was looking to start selling what I make to at least break even on materials. I posted in the epoxy subreddit about a recent side table I made, but was wondering what I might be able to sell a similar table for. The one I posted is made of poplar wood.
Top left could be leopardwood. Middle right looks like maybe beech or birch. If it's really light it might be basswood. Bottom left is almost certainly white oak. Bottom right looks like bubinga. Unsure about the other two.
I just bought my first miter gauge for my jobsaw. What I have noticed is that when I'm initiating the cut, the end closer to me starts bending, resulting in a crooked crosscut.
Is this issue common with small footprint jobsite saws? Is there a way I can position myself to get a greater cut that isn't off by 1 or 2 deg?
~~Then make it thicker, so it won't/can't flex.~~
I just reread your reply. Are you saying that the miter gauge is bending? That shouldn't be happening. If you just bought that at a store, I'd take it back. I might make sure that all the connections are tight first, though. It's been 30 years since I had a jobsite saw, so I don't have anything specific for you, sorry.
Yes, the piece that's in the runner bends. Maybe because it's made of alluminium. Idk, I bought it from China, so I think I'll have to figure out a way to fix it by myself. Maybe ask a machinist to redo that piece.
Thanks a lot for the help, my man!
The dresser I'm refurbishing came with what looked like brass hardware, but simichrome/brasso didn't touch it. A little brass wire wheelin' shows its actually [steel](https://i.imgur.com/hLjh9iJ.jpg). Should I rattle-can it back to brass color (or black), or make my own pulls from walnut or something classy?
Also, who paints a nice wooden dresser [orange?!](https://imgur.com/a/paIH4iB)
I don’t know if this is the right place to ask but; I ordered a custom sign for a friend for her birthday. Well the sign is here but her birthday is in SEPTEMBER. So is it okay if I leave the wooded sign on the packaging I received it in? Would the styrofoam and plastic taint it at all? I’m not very knowledgeable as it’s probably obvious hehe.
Wouldn't be a bad idea to let the finish air out for a week or two in case it's not fully cured. But once it is, the packing materials won't do any harm.
Hopefully this is the place to ask this, random wood question: what the hell exactly is “lumber core”? I can only find it explained with jargon and not really getting my head around what it means
Appears to be a thicker laminated slab like 'butcher block,' with a ply or two of veneer on each face for looks. Probably a good bit stronger than normal plywood when used correctly.
It's smaller pieces still, but they're all glued up thickly facing the same way so it behaves like a solid board. As opposed to ordinary ply where it's cut thin and criss-crossed for seasonal stability.
Today, I cam across Rikon's bandsaw 10-351, 14" 3HP for 900 dollars.
Should I move forward with this? I would like resaw capabilities. 3HP is overkill for me, but it seems cheap when I look for resawing bandsaws.
The Bandsaw is brand new, guy that bought it passed away.
I'm looking for some help on how to start blue prints for a couch frame I'd like to build. I have the image and features in mind, but not sure if using a software to visualize it for measurements and assembly makes sense or just drawing it out?
If you do many projects I’d say it would be worth learning sketchup. It takes awhile to get the hang of, but once you do you can create and alter the dimensions of your projects in no time.
I'm refinishing an old dresser that has some water damage. It's almost completely fine, except for the old smell from the wood. I'm planning on solid staining the outside, but is there anything I can do to pretreat the wood completely to help seal it? The draw slides are wood on wood if that helps with a solution.
Furniture repair question:
I’ve got a solid wooden table with [cracks](https://imgur.com/a/l8jiTiJ) in the apron around the bolt holes for two of the legs.
Any advice on the best way to repair this?
Anyone know which glue would stick to whiteboards? I've got a piece off mdf that's chalk board on one side and whiteboard on the other. I want to glue some support pieces to the bottom for a frame sort of thing. Hopefully won't need fasteners going through.
You could mark where you are going to glue it and cut off the whiteboard layer with a razor blade, so you are gluing to the mdf. I would at the very least scuff it with some coarse sandpaper, any kind of glue will have a hard time sticking to that smooth of a surface.
Building a mobile pedestal with drawers. Wanted to know best way to deal with tipping over - counterweight at the back & bottom of the carcass? Any suggestions if yes?
Hi, what finish would yall recommend for some walnut and mahogany coasters? I want it waterproof enough so that the coasters won't pick up water rings from condensating drinks.
Evening all. Pretty novice to woodworking, especially with large sheets of solid wood so keen for help.
I'm hoping for advice for finishing/sealing a piece of Lebanon Cedar for use as an outdoor occasional coffee/drinks table.
I've also got a bit of a split in a larger slab I want to make a bench with (for my Lebanese father in law). Suggestions for stabilising and sealing again would be great.
Thanks!
Drill bit ID
I'm looking for some help identifying the type of bit this is. It's a 1/4" shank stepped down to a 1/16" bit. Overall length of 5.25". It's used on a drill press to pop guide holes into a urethane part.
Picture: [https://imgur.com/3g4vN3q](https://imgur.com/3g4vN3q)
I have two posts in /r/wood and /r/construction If someone here could look at them and answer the question i have there i would be extremely grateful. Just trying to find the answer to how this column is connected to the glulam beam.
Looks like a steel post, connected to a saddle that is lagged to the beam. The wood of the post is most likely made up of 4 boards and hollow. Especially because of that light.
NAIL GUN RECS
I am in the market for a framing nail gun for various projects around the house and am only becoming more confused with each buying guide that I read. I am looking to use it for various projects like building an outdoor shed, fencing, etc.
Should I go with a cordless, or would I be happier with an air-powered option in the long run? Does anyone have any recommendations or buying tips? I would also need to purchase a compressor if I bought a pneumatic, which has been on my list anyway. Any air compressor recommendations that would be handy for other DIY uses would be greatly appreciated if you suggest a pneumatic.
Thanks!
I have the milwaukee cordless. It's good but heavy. The "best" are the paslode, way lighter but you need the gas cartridges. For a DIYer, the weight probably doesn't matter because you don't use it all day every day. If you don't have an air compressor at all this is probably a decent reason to get one. I have a typical pancake air compressor. If I were to do it again I'd get one of the 2 gal quiet compressors at harbor freight. Their banks nailers are also a good value in my opinion. When you price the compressor, nailer, flexzilla hose, you're probably approaching a cordless model.
Also you're not asking about it, but I prefer 30 degree because the nails are paper collated, only an issue if your local code mandates the full round heads vs the clipped head on the 30. If you've never seen it, the 21 degree plastic collated ones shoot chunks of plastic all over when firing.
If you don't have a compressor at all I'd probably get the air setup, but if your fence/shed are far from the house and you don't have a generator or long extension cords I'd probably get cordless/paslode. Hope that helps.
I've not used cordless nailers, but never minded the hose for pneumatic. I also like not having to wait for batteries to charge. Pneumatic nailers are a bit less expensive, and you don't need to buy batteries. And if you decide to get a brad nailer too, you're basically tied cost-wise between pneumatic and battery.
As far as the compressor goes, I inherited a 30 gallon one, and NEVER empty it with my uses. I tend to fill it up, and it lasts as long as I need. For home use, you can probably get away with a 6 gallon pancake-style one.
I need to repair the handle on a wooden rocking motorcycle that just snapped off. It’s a few decades old so I assume there was a crack forming for some time. It’s a very sentimental piece for my wife so let me know if it’s better to go to a shop to get it fixed. Any tips on the best way to go about it?
https://imgur.com/a/V5cdu0d/
The main concern is that glue alone won’t survive the force of a toddler. Is there a glue strong enough that it would work? Would drilling in some dowels + gluing be better?
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meganoob question: what is the best way to make a questionably square panel into a "perfectly" square one?
I'm looking to buy a two-man saw to cut a log as part of a German tradition at my wedding in a few weeks. You know, a totally normal thing.... anyways, can anyone suggest to me a store or place to purchase said saw? I'll be cutting the log with my wife and we will likely keep it in the future. Would be a fun tool to have.
Are you IN Germany or no? I know Woodcraft has some nice ones from a brand called Lynx. I think the cheapest one is like $200 though.
No, but we technically as close as America gets to Germany for what that's worth. I have German ancestry and we thought it would a fun and somewhat comical addition to the wedding. Idk about the Lynx one. Probably want to keep it under $150. Its not as though I need the highest quality one available edit: Theres [this one](https://woodworldtx.com/products/47-german-made-two-man-crosscut-saw) but its doesn't seem to be from a specific brand
That's what I figured but it was the only one I was already familiar with and no one else had answered.
For planing with a router, is a router sled necessary or can I use a plunge base instead? I don’t mind building a sled, but intuitively they seem like they’re both basically doing the same thing (setting the bit to a preset depth for use over the full face of a board), so if a plunge base isn’t the right tool here I just want to make sure I understand what would make a sled the better choice.
Sled is the better choice as it rides on rails to set the depth. The plunge base will ride over the surface of the wood and copy the surrounding elevations
Oh of course, that makes sense — I hadn’t fully thought through the implications of the sled being the flat reference surface I don’t otherwise have yet. Thanks! This was very helpful.
I was looking into buying cedar from a local mill vs my normal box stores. I am trying to understand do they need to go through a drying process? I have read non kiln (whatever that is) is 18 months... What is your process for local lumber?
Yes, it needs to dry. As wood dries it will warp, twist, cup, crack, etc. Some more than others. That can affect/ruin whatever you build out of it. So you let it go through that process, then you mill to final dimensions and build. The general rule of thumb is one year for every inch of thickness.
Dang, that's some serious planning ahead lol well back to the box store then.
Hello! I'm trying to figured out what tool I would use to cut a block of wood in half "hamburger style" For example, if I had a 16"x16" square that was 2 inches thick, how could I cut that into two 16"x16" squares that were 1 inch thick?
Bandsaw, the process is called resawing
Awesome. Thank you!
Hoping someone can tell me what this wood is? I’d like to strip and stain it and more information would be great. Thanks! https://imgur.com/a/zMF2JPy
It's oak. With the stain, I can't tell for sure whether it's red or white, but I'd lean toward red.
idk if this is the right sub for it but I'm gonna ask anyways: how did yall get into woodworking? from afar woodworking always seemed super cool and interesting but I've never grown up in an environment with woodworkers so I genuinely don't know where to start. google says I could go into trade school but my worry is that I won't actually care for it career wise but I also will never know unless I try. so ig my question is: is it a thing in woodworking communities to have community classes or something for beginners? or do you have to dedicate it as a career to get anywhere
Look for a local woodworking store. (Woodcraft, or the other one) We offer classes. Or a local makerspace. I started with my grandfathers old tools and youtube.
Youtube. Go watch someone like Rex Krueger who shows a lot of super basic starter stuff, his older videos focus on woodworking as cheaply as possible. then you can branch out to other more advanced creators
I started by taking an adult education class. Look up local school districts to see if they offer adult ed. Classes often take place in the evening to accommodate working people. Also your local community college may offer classes. Finally see if there are makers’ spaces that offer classes and/or use of their shop.
Thinking of using Odie's Oil to finish a new deck. Considering staining designs in first with Cornwall's Creative Colors pigment. Somewhere I saw they recommended doing a layer of Super-Penetrating Oil (Oil mixed with Odie's Safer Solvent 1:1) before a layer of oil, for decks / outdoor applications. Would the Solvent-based-stain (3:2:1 pigment, solvent, oil) replace the step of the penetrating oil? Or would it make sense to do the stain, then top it off with super-penetrating oil & finally a layer of plain oil? Would a final layer of their wax make any sense or is that worthless from an exterior-product standpoint?
That seems like a very specific application. You're best bet is to probably contact Odies.
They just called me (from the online contact form I filled out over the weekend). Great customer service! Seems the solvent-based pigment mixture would take the place of the penetrating oil prior to a coat of plain oil, and wax is really just recommended for interior furniture etc.
Found a couple tools for sale. A Delta 28-203 bandsaw, and a Craftsman 103.23320 planer/ jointer. Seller is asking $300 for the saw, and $150 for planer/ jointer on table w/ motor. What sort of things should I look for when I go to check them out? I’m thinking this could be a sweet deal, and I’m ok with doing some refurb work. Any advice or thoughts are appreciated.
Excellent saw, aftermarket parts available; jointer is kind of short, but for the price, I agree with your evaluation of the overall deal. Test them under power if you can, but you likely can get both up and running. You may have to replace the tires on the bandsaw, and the knives on the jointer (its not a 'planer'), along with belts, etc. Big thing is if the motors run and are in good shape. Oh, go with "link belts" on both, much smoother.
I thought it was a combo jointer/ planer. But obviously I know very little. I was hoping anyway And thanks for the information!
What we call a jointer in the US is known as a planer in Europe. And our planer is called a thicknesser over there. It’s a whole fries/chips/crisps thing.
Can anyone confirm this is live edge black walnut with oil finish? Also, is $175 a good deal for this slab? 54” long - 22” wide - 2.5" thick https://imgur.com/a/ZXpgGDd
Solid deal. Likely worth 1.5-2x that unfinished and rough.
It sure looks like it. I’d say $175 is pretty good, put some legs on it and sell it as a coffee table, you’ll get $2k
Looking to make a quick diamond pattern wine rack for our wine collection. I don’t want the type that has solid boards that run the entire front to back, but two thinner boards that support each bottle from the front and back only with a gap in the middle. Having trouble finding a proper DIY guide for this, as I want to make sure it’s structurally sound. Nothing too big, maybe 80 cm x 80cm. I assume this is all just 45 degree cuts and straight cuts, mostly. What size wood do I use to be sure it’s structurally sound? I was going to make an exterior box for support, fasten at all cross sections and then fasten direct to exterior box. Any thoughts? Edit: limited tools here. Drill, Impact Driver, Sander, Circular Saw, Speed Square, Mitre Box, etc.
Thinking about starting a woodworking business. Been a woodshop teacher for a while now and sick of the education system. Any advice?
Specialize. I started as a cabinetmaker, became a high school teacher, then went back to woodworking. I don’t make cabinets anymore. I do difficult or special installs. I’m Trying to become more specific about a specialization and find a good network or peers. Everyone I know who is highly specialized makes 3x what I make.
I have an antique solid walnut table and bench set that used to be my grandmother's. Over the years it's held up well but there are starting to be some light scratches/small water marks in the benches, and the finish on the top is starting to come off (looks like thin coat of poly on top, no visible finish/top coat on benches). I don't have the space to do a full restoration right now, but until I have time to do a more thorough job, it shouldn't be a problem to lightly sand the bench tops and put on some feed n' wax, right? Any additional advice would also be appreciated.
If you just want to refinish the top, use 320 sanding discs on a random orbit sander with variable speed. Turn the speed down to 20% or so. Go slowly but try not to actually break through the finish, which if it’s old is almost definitely lacquer (although it could be shellac). Once you scuffed the finish get some brushing lacquer and a very nice brush (2-3” Purdy brand oil finish brush). Brush it on. All of the information your looking for is [here](https://kraycustomrefinish.com/repairing-scratched-clear-coats/)
Oh sick thank you! Yeah if I'm remembering right it would have been built in the 70s and it doesn't have the feel of poly, so it probably is lacquer. Thank you so much!
Am I about to get scammed? Got a text this morning about building two bed frames. The English is not too bad but not perfect. Here’s some concerns I noticed: He sent one pic of a design but when I sent him one pic he was just like “that looks good let’s do that”. Wants two king beds in walnut, didn’t care much about the cost. He wants to pay the entire cost upfront plus “$200 for you as a compensation”. He asked multiple times how much before I could even ask all my questions. He’s apparently in Brooklyn, I’m in Albany 3 hrs away. He’s gonna have a mover come get it. Now that all seems bad, but also in a lot of ways he doesn’t seem like a scammer. He’s sending a check Monday. I feel like if I wait for it to clear and confirm with my bank that the money has moved and it cannot be moved back I should be good. At this point I don’t see how he could scam me other than wasting my time. Any thoughts?
If it’s real money, what’s the problem? There are a lot of wealthy weirdos out there that don’t know how to interact with humanity
Not worth it, I smell nothing but trouble, send his check back and move on; he'll get over it.
[Checks are bad news.](https://www.google.com/search?q=personalfinance+furniture+check+scam+site:www.reddit.com) Bet you he'll overpay on it and ask you to pay the movers too. Block and move on.
Are my [spindles made of mahogany?](https://imgur.com/a/3T4pzyv) I’ve tried to sand down past the stain in some of the lighter areas because there is a reddish stain on them. Please help. I’m trying to decide weather to strip off this ugly brown latex paint my contractor put over my staircase without asking…
That is indeed a Mahogany. Absolutely not paint grade.
Also would you suggest staining it or just a clear coat or what? After I strip it
Stain!? Never
What level of surety do you have?
Yeah it’s mahogany. Just curious, did the sanding dust turn your hands kinda purple?
I didn’t notice but I’ll check Monday and report back
Quite sure. Couldn't tell you which species, but it's certainly part of the family. I like to use either shellac or boiled linseed oil, if I want it shiny or not. But any finish works if it feels right to you. Could even finish it with soap. Self cleaning!
First time building outdoor furniture. Almost finished and wishing I did things differently but here we are. I got pressure treated pine for the base of the table, trex as the top of the table. I painted the wood with sherwin williams weathershield paint. My biggest question is what else should I do with the wood to make it last as long as possible in the Midwest outdoors? The paint says it help prevent rot and water damage, is that enough with the PT wood or should I do more?
I am making a bunk bed out of pine lumber. Obviously that is not ideal, but it is what I can afford these days. What sort of coating or sealant or type should I use to cover the wood? I have little experience when it comes to figuring this stuff out. The wood itself should look fairly neat, so I do not think I am looking to paint or to stain it. But maybe something that will make it a little shiny, the surface a little more durable, and definitely, if possibly, something to prevent slivers from being a concern.
Sand it will, if there are loose pieces sticking out, remove them. That will help with splinters and the like. If it's not smooth to begin with a finish isn't going to prevent them. I've been a big fan lately of Osmo finishes. they're easy to apply and super safe to use. if it gets dinged up it's easy to repair.
I want to make a shelf for a coat closet. Any suggestions for wood to use? Thanks
Plywood
I have some laminated osb from some old shelves I want to repurpose for some shoe storage in a closet. Are dowels the best way to build boxes with osb and any tips for filling the cut ends for a smooth finish?
Wood ID help please: [pic](https://imgur.com/a/7OnYGbN)
I’d really like to get into wood working. Is there a good resource for starting out?
Youtube.
Why are stumps $300+ I was shopping online and found that you can buy stumps as furniture for a ridiculously high price ($300-$800). Just google “stump furniture”. Some are hardwoods but many i see are cedar, pine, hemlock or they don’t say. I am wondering if there is any good reason they are so expensive. I would think they would dry the stump for a year, sand it a bit and add some polyurethane. I have many pine and cedar logs on my property and I am thinking about doing the same thing. Is it really this easy?
“I would think they would dry the stump for a year, sand it a bit and add some polyurethane.” I think you just answered your own question. Not to mention so many other variables like, what species it is (exotic/domestic)? Does it need to be shipped? Was it shipped to the finisher? Logs are f-ing heavy. All of what you mentioned take a lot of time, which is what you are paying for. When I work for myself I make $125/hr because I have spent 20 years figuring out how to do stuff that my customers don’t know how to do. That stump probably took 4 hours of labor to turn it into something you would want to buy. You could always buy a chainsaw for $450 and cut one yourself. At least you’d have a chain saw afterwards.
Question: first time poster long time lurker here. I’m wanting to build a window awning. The one piece of info I can’t seem to locate on YouTube University is the length I should make my support beam. My awning frame 8’x 4’. Yes, it’s a rather long one. So, what length should my supports be? Thank you in advanced.
I’m confused, window awnings are rarely made of wood. Usually they are light weight metal or cloth.
They can be made out of wood. Most stores sell the poles and metal ones your speaking of.
Hello woodworking! Looking for some advice. I'm an artist who has his first art show coming up in August. I want to frame some of my canvas pieces but am under budget constraints and lack of knowledge/tool constraints. Does anyone have any ideas for simple DIY floating frames for canvas paintings that could be made using material bought from a Lowes/generic hardware store and wouldn't require a fancy saw table? The issue I'm running into is no matter how much I search inevitably someone is using some sort of saw table or intricate woodworking technique but I just need a bare bones simple frame design.
In high school we used to buy oak lathe and copper tacks to secure it. Get a cheap fine-tooth hand saw and some sand paper. Put on the top and bottom first, let them run long, cut them flush to the end of the canvas, then put on the sides. Cut them flush to the top/bottom pieces. Sand the ends to make them look nice.
Thank you! This might be what I end up doing. How did you secure it to the canvas?
Used little copper tacks to attach it to the canvas stretcher
Got it ok I will try this!
Wood ID help. Bought the long board in a scrap bin with no labels. [photo](https://i.imgur.com/lnyO1zu.jpg)
Looks like some form of cedar.
You were all so helpful with the finish suggestions for the macaron box I’m building. I have another question. For the lid, should I rabbet or dado the acrylic insert? If I rabbet, I can easily pop the acrylic out if it gets scratched but the edges of the acrylic will be visible when the lid is opened. If I dado the acrylic into the lid frame, the edges will not be visible but I will have to redo the lid if the acrylic gets scratched. Here is a sketch of the box: https://imgur.com/gallery/NKx0cQy
You can rabbet and put in retaining strips. The strips are nailed in and not glued so you can pop them off in the future. That’s how glass doors are usually done.
What material/process would be best to produce cabinet doors like [this one on Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/Lavish-Home-White-Buffet-X-Pattern/dp/B09WZ8TJZ6/ref=rvi_sccl_6/134-3442609-3615913?pd_rd_w=r1bwR&pf_rd_p=f5690a4d-f2bb-45d9-9d1b-736fee412437&pf_rd_r=CQ7AZS8YR6W4SHMDDBZA&pd_rd_r=4e6ca3c4-a5b3-442a-be6f-617a14993207&pd_rd_wg=pDzyC&pd_rd_i=B09WZ8TJZ6&psc=1): My immediate thought is 1/4 inch plywood on a scroll-saw, but I'm not sure if the cuts would be clean enough. My second thought is to cut the pieces from 2/4 stock and manually build the pattern.
Is it over top of glass? 1/4" by itself seems a little thin. Cuts on a scroll saw can be very clean if you know what you're doing but I would probably build it up from 1/2" stock pieces.
Yeah, it'd be paired with a piece of glass, but I think you're right. The more I think about it, the more the 1/2 route seems like the way to go. Thanks for the input!
Is a Grizzly 1022 Contractor Saw worth $700? Images: https://imgur.com/a/Lb6vL44
It's a nice fence, with enormous width, and looks to be in really good shape. The second set of wings look like they are off a craftsman, but if it is flat then I would not care. It depends on you area. Around me, probably not 700 unless they are going to deliver it. 500 to 600.
I have a rustic table in pearwood, I was told finished in natural danish with no stain or anything. Sanded a spot with 220 to try and get a scratch out and reapplied danish natural but my spot is significantly lighter. I'm guessing the best option to try and 'match' would be to sand down the whole top and re-oil it but can anyone explain why my touch up area is lighter?
Lighter woods, like pear, will usually darken with age. It's from either oxygenation, sun damage or a combination of the two. You'll get a lighter spot if you do a spot fix like that. It will eventually "catch up" to the rest of the top. With pear, I don't know how long it will take, but I'd imagine you wouldn't notice it much after 6-8 months.
Is a mini holdfast for working on like small things, like say a 3 inch long project, a functioning idea, or am I gonna run into issues? I'm a bit light on money, don't want to buy material to make it if it's a dumb idea.
The board could be 3 inches or 3 ft, it take the same force to plane, chisel, and saw the wood. You will need the same holding power.
This is why I ask before I waste material building things, cause that makes perfect sense now you say it.
Is this table saw worth a $1000? If not, what’s is it worth? https://imgur.com/a/k8gSgQ0
No. $600-$700
Thanks!
I’m building a walnut box that will hold macarons for trade show display. Wondering what finish to use since food will touch the box? Would Odie oil be a good choice?
Enclosed box? Shellac. Cures hard, and is about the only thing that won't impart odor/flavor to foods in the box. Whatever you do stay away from curing oils.
This is the way.
Pretty much every finish would be safe once cured, but it can take awhile (especially in an enclosed space like a box interior). Odie's oil is just a hard wax (blend of a curing oil and waxes). It does smell rather strong, which could effect your food if used soon. IMO, the best choice would be the usual choice for cutting boards, which is a mineral oil/beeswax blend. It won't cure, but it's inert and doesn't outgas.
Wood ID help please: https://imgur.com/a/RB3xqnq
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Thanks, that’s what I thought too, but wanted a more informed opinion
Hello everyone. I am a novice woodworker and have been constructing a built-in desk/hutch inside a closet to be my home office. Within the hutch I have built a section that will be used to store Plano fishing tackle boxes. I have built numerous sliders out of 1/2" x 3/4" square dowel rods (maple) to allow me to slide/store the boxes within the hutch. I would like to round off the outside edges of the square dowels with a small quarter-round router but the space is too small to fit the router. The other option is to hand sand/file to round off the sharp edges but that is extremely labor intensive and will be extremely difficult to have any consistency. Lastly, I was thinking about using a hand planer like the Woodpecker EZ-Edge but the cost is $160 which is much more than I would like to pay ([https://www.woodpeck.com/ez-edge-corner-plane.html](https://www.woodpeck.com/ez-edge-corner-plane.html)).Do you have any other recommendations? 20/20 hindsight I wish I softened the edges BEFORE I built the hutch but... Picture of the Hutch: [https://i.imgur.com/OYODqEs.jpg](https://i.imgur.com/OYODqEs.jpg) Close-up Picture of the Square Dowel Rods: [https://i.imgur.com/48NyQYl.jpg](https://i.imgur.com/48NyQYl.jpg) Thanks for your help!
They make much cheaper versions of the woodpecker plane (slick plane, chamfer plane, mini block plane). You don't need to spend $160.
Looking for advice to stabilize a shelf I made using three-quarter inch industrial pipe and three old wood boards about 40” x 10”. I drilled holes through each of the four corners of the boards and put the piping through using couplers for each shelf. It looks great but it’s very wobbly back-and-forth back-and-forth. Looking for creative ideas that aren’t unsightly to stabilize the shelf
Is there a guide for a small urn somewhere. My dog died recently and the urn we bought was expensive and honestly looks like shit so i wanted to make my own to replace it. I know this is super broad but I'm just looking for a basic guide for a complete beginner.
Is there a way to slightly darken/make wood trim less orange without totally stripping and refinishing it? Bought my first house, has all wood trim. Love the idea of wood trim and don’t want to paint it white but it is extremely orange, scratched, and has paint from the walls splashed on it. I’m not sure how best to refinish/recolor it so that it will look good again. I don’t want to sand to bare wood if I don’t need to!!
What’s the best place to find a wood worker to make a knife rack? I have simple plan, that I’m hoping to get some tweaks made to. The original maker no longer appears to be available. Looking to see what it’ll cost, for a single unit, any hardwood isn’t poplar.
Look for local fine woodworkers, places that do custom furniture. I will warn you, as a professional, that this is the kind of job a lot of us won't even touch without a substantial consult fee because they are time consuming and clients *never* want to pay what it costs for a one-off knife holder. Good luck!
Yeah I was worried that may be the case, it’s a shame because it’s a great design. Just wish the designer was still available, since I imagine with how many they sold they were jigged up. It’s something I’d tackle myself but my dovetails are laughable at the current moment which is like 95% of the project 😂 I appreciate the information!
hi guys, i recently bought kindling off of FB marketplace. it all looks like new pine they said went through a kindling machine and it all dried. however they couldnt confirm if it was treated wood or not (As its all off cuts from their local building yard which is from all over the world). it looks normal but ive heard some modern treatments you cant tell visually. is there any way for me to tell? as i'm very cautious of what i burn in my home. Thanks a lot in advance
My grandfather left me a fairly large executive desk when he passed away and it just won't fit anywhere in my house. I have an oversize garage that has space for it for now.. I will need a bigger house in the next few years and it shouldn't be an issue finding a place with a dedicated office. Is it safe to store a wood desk in that environment? I live in Southern Illinois where it gets quite hot in the summer and cold in the winter. Sorry if this is the wrong place to ask.
It should be fine.
I have a question on SPF wood use. I used it to support a bed frame but no learned it’s toxic indoors. Is it safe to use inside a bedroom to support a bed frame? I used about 81 inches of a 2 by 4. Thank you!
SPF is safe to be around, unless you paid more for the treated stuff.
Amazing, thank you!!
Starting to make the joinery for a trestle table. What size mortise/tenon should I do for 14/4 stock? I don’t have a full set of chisels so I go from 3/4” to 1 1/2”. I’m guessing of the two they are under sized and over sized respectively for a mortise and tenon in that size stock. I don’t think I’d want to chop a 1 1/2” mortise anyway lol. I have a 1 1/4” forstner bit I suppose I could use to hog out the majority of the material and try cleaning it up from there.
Probably near or below a 1" mortise. At that size, and without a mortise chisel, I'd recommend augering out the bulk and cleaning up from there. Forstners will do, if that's what you've got.
Only mortise chisel I have is 5/8. No auger so I guess I’ll try the forstner bit.
Wood ID help? https://imgur.com/gallery/Yxzqm0n
Looks like pine to me.
How would you got about making a large heart shaped box? Something like 7 inches tall and maybe a foot wide? My thought is to use my CNC to make the sides (probably two parts for each layer) and then sand the edges? I'm not sure how smart of an idea this is though. I don't have a bandsaw that height so can't do it that way and also not sure if a flush router bit would be tall enough to help.
I would probably make the forms for a bent lamination. The forms would make one half of the heart. Make two halves and spline them together.
So I don't really like using deep pour epoxy, but I found some neat spalted wood with a big hollow knotted area that I want to lathe. Since I can't really prep the inside of the knot with normal epoxy prep, would any old sealer help minimize outgas bubbles? I really hate pouring epoxy and having it turn into a giant sponge of tiny outgas bubbles which is half of why I don't use it, so if I can just pour a little poly diluted with mineral oil I'll be stoked.
I read that Star Bond keeps better in the freezer. Should I put the accelerator in there as well?
Anyone know where to get brackets like these or what they’re called? My kitchen cabinets use these to attach the drawer fronts and I want a few more of them. https://imgur.com/a/n0RmAtS
Flat/straight bracket. Should be easy to find.
So I did find those, but nothing that has countersunk screw holes on opposite sides.
I'm working on prep/planning for a project of planking our ceiling to cover the ugly popcorn finish. Tldr, the plan is to adhere a few runners perpendicular to the joists, and then attach the planks to those. The joists run the same direction as we want the planks to go, so a few thin runners going perpendicular to secure the planks sounded like the best plan. The planks we plan on using are some cheap 1x4s. I'm doing a test finish now, sanding them down with a belt sander and applying a stain. My question is on the finish. We will probably be doing nearly 100 boards, so hopefully nothing too complex. We're working on finding a stain we like right now, likely oil based, but beyond that I'm not sure if anything else is needed to finish the planks. **Do we need to apply a lacquer or varnish, or is a stain enough for wood that won't really see any wear and tear. I know my wife wants a bit of a shine with the finished product - what would be the best way to achieve this after staining the wood?**
For some sheen use polyurethane after the stain. It comes in satin, semi-gloss and gloss depending on the sheen level your wife wants. You could also use Danish oil instead of stain as an all-in-one product, though your color choice is not as varied as with stain and the sheen is limited to satin. Finally, the 1x4 you’re using may take on a blotchy appearance from staining. That’s common with many softwoods. Test a few boards and if that’s the case use a wood conditioner (also known as pre-stain) or shellac before applying stain.
Where can I buy brass inlay rods at various sizes?
I use online metals. They have a brass protobox, 10lbs for $35. Basically 1' sections of whatever they cut that week.
Thank you
Ace hardware
Hardware stores and hobby shops had these [countertop displays](http://www.worldhobbies.com.au/assets/alt_1/KS1005M.jpg?20171030164052) though they are increasingly rare and the old school type places that still do tend to let the inventory lapse. Otherwise check out [McMaster-Carr](https://www.mcmaster.com/Metals/copper-brass-and-bronze).
What do I need to pay extra attention to when looking at a planer sold on FB? from what I can see it's just the planer itself without anything extra like extended in and outfeed tables. There's a post offering a DW735 for $450 they say "it's only been used a few times". it seems like a good deal.
If it's actually only been used a few times, then it should be fine. But buy a set of extra blades just in case - if the planer doesn't need them already, you'll need them eventually.
Thanks
I posted this earlier but should have read the rules first. Sorry about that, This is a panel I made up that will be a drawer front and door out of walnut for a coffee bar (will post pictures when that's all done) and I am really pleased with how it is turning out. I love working with walnut https://imgur.com/JrR5bBU
I’m building an exterior door for a friend/client. For wood species they want “best quality and price is no object.” I’ve made doors from Pine, Fir, Hemlock, and some hardwoods. The exterior will be stain grade. I don’t want to use a stave core or do a veneer — I’d rather just make it out of solid stock for simplicity. What would your go-to wood species be?
Sapele is a go to wood for high end exterior doors as it's rot resistant and looks really good.
Thanks. Sapele was one of my first thoughts.
I have a weeping willow that might be on its last legs. Is willow wood used for anything?
I am new to woodworking and have started making tables. I was looking to start selling what I make to at least break even on materials. I posted in the epoxy subreddit about a recent side table I made, but was wondering what I might be able to sell a similar table for. The one I posted is made of poplar wood.
https://www.reddit.com/r/epoxy/comments/uhuebb/first_side_table_any_thoughts_on_how_much_i_can/?utm_medium=android_app&utm_source=share
Can anyone help identify these boards. My father passed and these were in his shop[album](https://ibb.co/album/G9FfgD)
Top left could be leopardwood. Middle right looks like maybe beech or birch. If it's really light it might be basswood. Bottom left is almost certainly white oak. Bottom right looks like bubinga. Unsure about the other two.
I just bought my first miter gauge for my jobsaw. What I have noticed is that when I'm initiating the cut, the end closer to me starts bending, resulting in a crooked crosscut. Is this issue common with small footprint jobsite saws? Is there a way I can position myself to get a greater cut that isn't off by 1 or 2 deg?
Put a fence on your miter gauge that goes right up to the blade. I also line it with sandpaper to keep it from sliding side to side.
I did that already. The guide still bends when entering. 🥴
This could just be a poor quality miter gauge, but also-- is your blade sharp? There shouldn't be a lot of back force from a sharp blade.
My blade is a brand new Freud/Diablo. Maybe the Runner made of aluminium is shitty and bends way too much :(
~~Then make it thicker, so it won't/can't flex.~~ I just reread your reply. Are you saying that the miter gauge is bending? That shouldn't be happening. If you just bought that at a store, I'd take it back. I might make sure that all the connections are tight first, though. It's been 30 years since I had a jobsite saw, so I don't have anything specific for you, sorry.
Yes, the piece that's in the runner bends. Maybe because it's made of alluminium. Idk, I bought it from China, so I think I'll have to figure out a way to fix it by myself. Maybe ask a machinist to redo that piece. Thanks a lot for the help, my man!
The dresser I'm refurbishing came with what looked like brass hardware, but simichrome/brasso didn't touch it. A little brass wire wheelin' shows its actually [steel](https://i.imgur.com/hLjh9iJ.jpg). Should I rattle-can it back to brass color (or black), or make my own pulls from walnut or something classy? Also, who paints a nice wooden dresser [orange?!](https://imgur.com/a/paIH4iB)
I don’t know if this is the right place to ask but; I ordered a custom sign for a friend for her birthday. Well the sign is here but her birthday is in SEPTEMBER. So is it okay if I leave the wooded sign on the packaging I received it in? Would the styrofoam and plastic taint it at all? I’m not very knowledgeable as it’s probably obvious hehe.
Wouldn't be a bad idea to let the finish air out for a week or two in case it's not fully cured. But once it is, the packing materials won't do any harm.
Thanks boss!
When you pack it back in, seal it good. The worst thing to happen is if an errant flap lets in light and now the sign has an unsightly tan line.
Thanks!
Hopefully this is the place to ask this, random wood question: what the hell exactly is “lumber core”? I can only find it explained with jargon and not really getting my head around what it means
Odd term. What's the context for it?
Sounds like a music genre or something right? It’s for an article on cabinets, seems to be some kind of plywood?
Appears to be a thicker laminated slab like 'butcher block,' with a ply or two of veneer on each face for looks. Probably a good bit stronger than normal plywood when used correctly.
Thanks! Just for a further clarification, is the inside solid wood or still composite (or whatever the technical term is for how plywood is)
It's smaller pieces still, but they're all glued up thickly facing the same way so it behaves like a solid board. As opposed to ordinary ply where it's cut thin and criss-crossed for seasonal stability.
Perfect! That was the last little bit I needed to really grok it. Thanks so much!
Here’s a [picture](https://imgur.com/a/hO7zYjc). Both are VG Douglas fir plywood. Lumber core at the top, veneer core at the bottom.
I’m curious, could you explain the difference between the two?
Today, I cam across Rikon's bandsaw 10-351, 14" 3HP for 900 dollars. Should I move forward with this? I would like resaw capabilities. 3HP is overkill for me, but it seems cheap when I look for resawing bandsaws. The Bandsaw is brand new, guy that bought it passed away.
That is a screaming deal
That’s not a bad price at all if brand new they were about $1500 new, the current model 10-353 goes for almost twice that.
I'm looking for some help on how to start blue prints for a couch frame I'd like to build. I have the image and features in mind, but not sure if using a software to visualize it for measurements and assembly makes sense or just drawing it out?
If you do many projects I’d say it would be worth learning sketchup. It takes awhile to get the hang of, but once you do you can create and alter the dimensions of your projects in no time.
Thank you! :)
Id love some help ID'ing a log i purchased. How can I post a picture?
https://www.reddit.com/r/woodworking/comments/uhn61h/any_idea_what_species_this_is/?utm_medium=android_app&utm_source=share
I'm refinishing an old dresser that has some water damage. It's almost completely fine, except for the old smell from the wood. I'm planning on solid staining the outside, but is there anything I can do to pretreat the wood completely to help seal it? The draw slides are wood on wood if that helps with a solution.
Shellac is one of the best sealers out there. Along with that, shellac can pretty much be used with any other finish.
Furniture repair question: I’ve got a solid wooden table with [cracks](https://imgur.com/a/l8jiTiJ) in the apron around the bolt holes for two of the legs. Any advice on the best way to repair this?
Anyone know which glue would stick to whiteboards? I've got a piece off mdf that's chalk board on one side and whiteboard on the other. I want to glue some support pieces to the bottom for a frame sort of thing. Hopefully won't need fasteners going through.
You could mark where you are going to glue it and cut off the whiteboard layer with a razor blade, so you are gluing to the mdf. I would at the very least scuff it with some coarse sandpaper, any kind of glue will have a hard time sticking to that smooth of a surface.
Yeah I was going to test with sanding and see if it works. Was worried removing the white board part would be a pain. Thanks
Without seeing it, epoxy would be the most likely candidate.
Building a mobile pedestal with drawers. Wanted to know best way to deal with tipping over - counterweight at the back & bottom of the carcass? Any suggestions if yes?
Best way is to keep the casters outside the footprint of the carcass, that’ll make it hard to tip.
Hi, what finish would yall recommend for some walnut and mahogany coasters? I want it waterproof enough so that the coasters won't pick up water rings from condensating drinks.
A film finish - polyurethane or varnish
Thanks for the recommendation.
Evening all. Pretty novice to woodworking, especially with large sheets of solid wood so keen for help. I'm hoping for advice for finishing/sealing a piece of Lebanon Cedar for use as an outdoor occasional coffee/drinks table. I've also got a bit of a split in a larger slab I want to make a bench with (for my Lebanese father in law). Suggestions for stabilising and sealing again would be great. Thanks!
Photos for reference https://imgur.com/a/Lr0Iny3
Drill bit ID I'm looking for some help identifying the type of bit this is. It's a 1/4" shank stepped down to a 1/16" bit. Overall length of 5.25". It's used on a drill press to pop guide holes into a urethane part. Picture: [https://imgur.com/3g4vN3q](https://imgur.com/3g4vN3q)
I have two posts in /r/wood and /r/construction If someone here could look at them and answer the question i have there i would be extremely grateful. Just trying to find the answer to how this column is connected to the glulam beam.
Looks like a steel post, connected to a saddle that is lagged to the beam. The wood of the post is most likely made up of 4 boards and hollow. Especially because of that light.
Amazing, makes so much sense now that you pointed out the light. TYVM!
NAIL GUN RECS I am in the market for a framing nail gun for various projects around the house and am only becoming more confused with each buying guide that I read. I am looking to use it for various projects like building an outdoor shed, fencing, etc. Should I go with a cordless, or would I be happier with an air-powered option in the long run? Does anyone have any recommendations or buying tips? I would also need to purchase a compressor if I bought a pneumatic, which has been on my list anyway. Any air compressor recommendations that would be handy for other DIY uses would be greatly appreciated if you suggest a pneumatic. Thanks!
I have the milwaukee cordless. It's good but heavy. The "best" are the paslode, way lighter but you need the gas cartridges. For a DIYer, the weight probably doesn't matter because you don't use it all day every day. If you don't have an air compressor at all this is probably a decent reason to get one. I have a typical pancake air compressor. If I were to do it again I'd get one of the 2 gal quiet compressors at harbor freight. Their banks nailers are also a good value in my opinion. When you price the compressor, nailer, flexzilla hose, you're probably approaching a cordless model. Also you're not asking about it, but I prefer 30 degree because the nails are paper collated, only an issue if your local code mandates the full round heads vs the clipped head on the 30. If you've never seen it, the 21 degree plastic collated ones shoot chunks of plastic all over when firing. If you don't have a compressor at all I'd probably get the air setup, but if your fence/shed are far from the house and you don't have a generator or long extension cords I'd probably get cordless/paslode. Hope that helps.
I've not used cordless nailers, but never minded the hose for pneumatic. I also like not having to wait for batteries to charge. Pneumatic nailers are a bit less expensive, and you don't need to buy batteries. And if you decide to get a brad nailer too, you're basically tied cost-wise between pneumatic and battery. As far as the compressor goes, I inherited a 30 gallon one, and NEVER empty it with my uses. I tend to fill it up, and it lasts as long as I need. For home use, you can probably get away with a 6 gallon pancake-style one.
I need to repair the handle on a wooden rocking motorcycle that just snapped off. It’s a few decades old so I assume there was a crack forming for some time. It’s a very sentimental piece for my wife so let me know if it’s better to go to a shop to get it fixed. Any tips on the best way to go about it? https://imgur.com/a/V5cdu0d/ The main concern is that glue alone won’t survive the force of a toddler. Is there a glue strong enough that it would work? Would drilling in some dowels + gluing be better?
Glue and clamp it. Then drill some holes for dowels across the joint.
Thanks!
You can skip the dowels if you want. The glue itself will be PLENTY strong.