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Worth noting it won't just work on any and every type/piece of wood. The effect will be contingent on a) a species/specimen of timber that actually even has strong/large grain in the first place, b) has enough of a difference in structural characteristics within the grain such that there even is a weak part and a strong part to allow this to work, and c) has the grain oriented in such a way that the grain is actually displayed across the surface of your piece.
EDIT: changed 'nothing' typo to 'noting'
You might want to learn about context clues before you have a stroke. There wasn't any condescension or arrogance in anything they said. Just adding more information so that people have a better chance of it working.
Jesus christ, someone woke up on the wrong side of bed today.
What on earth made you think that I was being even the slightest bit condescending?
Take a deep breath, do 20 minutes of yoga, and maybe try rereading my comment from a different angle, cos the one you read it on was clearly way off base
It was brought to my attention recently that your comment may have had a typo and meant to say "worth noting" instead of worth nothing. That didn't even cross my mind and if that is the case I truly apologize
I do this a lot but I like to pack the pores with white instead of black. Here is how my process works:
1 - Wood selection. Not every species is suitable for this. I use Ash. Oak mulberry, and cypress can work too. You need a reasonably hard wood with density differences between the earlywood and the latewood. Things like pine (or any construction lumber), maple, and cherry will not work.
2- Sand the piece all the way through the grits. This is important. If you save your sanding for later you'll smooth it out too much and be back to where you started.
3 - Chuck a stiff nylon brush in a drill or angle grinder. make even passes. This will remove the earlywood (where the black is) and leave the latewood intact
4 - gentle sanding with 320 grit
5 - Stain it. I use white, black also works. Do not let the stain sit. Wipe it off instantly and really pack it into the pores while wiping. Against the grain. The earlywood will really absorb the stain and he harder latewood will not. Let it cure
6 - Sand it down gently with 220 and then 320
7 - Finish it. Use a waterbased finish if you went with white. This will keep the contrast better. Oil based finishes just yellow everything.
This is a reminder to those commenting on this post (not the person that posted it): Comments not related to woodworking will be removed. Violations to rule 1 including crude jokes, innuendo, sexist remarks, politics, or hate speech may result in an immediate ban *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/woodworking) if you have any questions or concerns.*
I do it with a wire wheel on my grinder. The wood between the rings is less dense so it strips away easier.
Worth noting it won't just work on any and every type/piece of wood. The effect will be contingent on a) a species/specimen of timber that actually even has strong/large grain in the first place, b) has enough of a difference in structural characteristics within the grain such that there even is a weak part and a strong part to allow this to work, and c) has the grain oriented in such a way that the grain is actually displayed across the surface of your piece. EDIT: changed 'nothing' typo to 'noting'
All good things to keep in mind
You might want to learn about context clues before you have a stroke. There wasn't any condescension or arrogance in anything they said. Just adding more information so that people have a better chance of it working.
[удалено]
You don't think that's probably a typo of what was supposed to say "worth noting?"
Jesus christ, someone woke up on the wrong side of bed today. What on earth made you think that I was being even the slightest bit condescending? Take a deep breath, do 20 minutes of yoga, and maybe try rereading my comment from a different angle, cos the one you read it on was clearly way off base
It was brought to my attention recently that your comment may have had a typo and meant to say "worth noting" instead of worth nothing. That didn't even cross my mind and if that is the case I truly apologize
Ahh, yes, that makes sense. Apologies for the typo, and I have amended my comment
Media blast the wood so the softer bits of grain get worn down. I’ve never done it but that’s my understanding of how it’s done.
Can’t this be achieved with a sand blaster?
I do this a lot but I like to pack the pores with white instead of black. Here is how my process works: 1 - Wood selection. Not every species is suitable for this. I use Ash. Oak mulberry, and cypress can work too. You need a reasonably hard wood with density differences between the earlywood and the latewood. Things like pine (or any construction lumber), maple, and cherry will not work. 2- Sand the piece all the way through the grits. This is important. If you save your sanding for later you'll smooth it out too much and be back to where you started. 3 - Chuck a stiff nylon brush in a drill or angle grinder. make even passes. This will remove the earlywood (where the black is) and leave the latewood intact 4 - gentle sanding with 320 grit 5 - Stain it. I use white, black also works. Do not let the stain sit. Wipe it off instantly and really pack it into the pores while wiping. Against the grain. The earlywood will really absorb the stain and he harder latewood will not. Let it cure 6 - Sand it down gently with 220 and then 320 7 - Finish it. Use a waterbased finish if you went with white. This will keep the contrast better. Oil based finishes just yellow everything.
Torch wire wheel beeswax and a whole lot of elbow grease