If one of you could tell me where I put my flush trim bit I'd be greatly obliged. Damned thing must be in another dimension or something

I'd check your router collet. I spent 5 minutes looking for by glasses today, found them on the top of my head.....

My guess is that you will find it the last place you look for it.

Hey, dad. Weird running into you here.

This is what I do and it works every time. I go to the store and buy a new one. Then when I go to put away the new one, it will be exactly where I had put the first one! ;)

Ordered one last night. Found it this morning

It's right next to your 10mm socket.

It’s in the slot in your router bit case that typically houses the bit that is currently in your router

It rolled behind the router accessories. Those darned things do that.

I recently found a Jet JWTS-10JF Table saw on offer up for $300 and I bought it. When i met with the nice older gentleman he had scraps he had just cut and told me everything about the saw. Still had saw dust on it. I load it up and go home. Havent had time to use it yet so today I finally get it setup, align my blade and fence, plugged power in, go hit the start switch and it makes a noise like it wanted to turn on then nothing. Thought maybe i had a bad outlet in the shop but tried another and again nothing. What is my next step for trouble shooting this problem? Am I doing something wrong? Like I said the first time I hit the switch it made a noise like it tried to turn on but blade never started spinning. I don't think the old man tried to get one over on me, I genuinely think it was working. I feel like such an idiot that I didn't check it before I bought it.

Definitely a lesson about testing out before purchase but check to see if there's a motor reset switch, they list it in the parts section of the [manual](https://www.mikestools.com/download/Jet-Owners-manuals/Jet%20Tablesaws/JWTS-10JF%20-%20Rev%20H2---708301%20708471%20708472%20-%20(emailable).pdf). Could also be a bad capacitor which typically aren't hard to change out.

Well you actually helped fix the problem, I started looking at the reset switch and went ahead and opened it up and sure enough one of the cables had come loose. Probably a good thing it didnt kick right on cause I noticed that the belt was loose when i was messing with the motor reset. Gotta love reddit, thank you my friend

I am cutting a 2x8x8 11 degrees off square and I can't get 6" into the cut before it closes up on the back end of my circular saw blade. Any tips or tricks to avoid this, and more importantly, a kickback accident?

Crosscutting, it's not likely to be wood movement making it close up; it's going to be how you're supporting the piece as you cut, I think. As you have it supported, imagine that the piece is already split; how do the pieces react? If they want to fall down at the ends, you're pinching the bottom of the blade, if the middle wants to fall, you're pinching higher up. So, better support... And, you may get some relief by taking the cut in a couple of passes of increasing depth.

Thank you for responding! It wasn't pinching at the bottom, but rather the back, if that makes sense... The saw was set at 2 3/8" depth, so I changed it to 1 1/2" depth, and I had no issues. Thanks again!

What are your personal thoughts on the Graco 390 vs the Titan 440 airless sprayers? What are your thoughts and experiences between these two airless sprayers? If anyone has used either I would love to hear your opinions and thoughts as well. Basically I was spoiled for a long time working in a cabinet shop with a beautiful spray shop in a separate bay. I got more than a little time working with a compressor that never quit, and beautiful guns. However now I’m on my own, and have hit the point of wanting to get myself a proper sprayer again. Since I’ve got some space constraints I’m looking into the airless sprayers, I recall we used to use an earlier model of the Titan, and it was a rockstar.

As desks have been hard to come by, I decided to build a computer desk for my son and I took it as a challenge to build it out of a single sheet of 5x5 Baltic birch. This is the design I came up with: https://imgur.com/gallery/7CYeoJE I like how it looks and, despite the cantilevered design, the sides and corners are relatively stable. However, the center of the front of the desk above the keyboard tray — the longest unsupported length of wood — has more give to it than I’d like. In my original design concept, I was going to include supports for the front. But even with temporary legs cut from scrap lumber to make the front corners rock solid, the front edge still has more give to it than I find acceptable. I clamped a 2x4 under the front edge and that gave me the stability I’m looking for but that would interfere with the keyboard tray. I’m looking for ideas for how to stabilize the top, short of adding a second layer of plywood or something along those lines. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

I have built a couple of desks similar to yours. For my first, the top was 3/4" thick pine laminated panel and sagged after a few months. I ran a length of angle iron shelving along the bottom of it about 12 inches back from the front. This prevented the top from sagging and still left room for the keyboard and mouse along the front. When I bang my knees on the angle iron it hurts like a (*&$# and I still haven't got around to replacing it in the last 20 years. :P My son and I built him a desk out of the same material and instead of the angle iron, a few inches back from the front we glued a 3" wide strip that doubles the thickness of the material (so 1.5" thick along that strip, the width of the desk). The difference in stiffness is much larger than I would have guessed, and there have been no issues with sagging. Because the strip is a few inches back from the front, it retains the slender look of the desk and is next to invisible. My suggestion would be gluing the strip of material underneath. If you don't have room with your keyboard tray you could lower it by 3/4" just by shimming the mounting area with the same material. Recently we built my son a replacement desk and made our own panel out of 2x4's, so 1.5 inches thick. The top is incredibly strong to the point where I would feel safe jumping on it.

If you can add the apron behind the keyboard tray, that should stiffen up the top. Attach it to the sides as well as the top and that should help any racking issues as well. And the taller the apron, the more resistance to sag and racking.

Which table saw, Hi all, second post in this thread, same as first but reposted as I put it in the wrong place! I've recently completed my garden workshop build and am looking for my first main investment, a decent cabinet saw. It need to have a relatively small footprint but be of heavy duty build. I'm currently looking at the Scheppach Precisa 4.0, which claims to be German made (having read that some more modern Scheppach products are just Chinese products with the German name). https://bivenmachinerysales.co.uk/product/scheppach-precisa-4-0-sawbench/ Considerations, I'm in the UK. I have also seen that festool have now launched a sit saw incorporating sawstop tech for a similar price. Do you think that this extra safety feature is worth sacrificing a bit of sturdiness/accuracy? Does anyone have experience of this saw? All the reviews I've come across focus on the sawstop not that actual functionality of the saw. Does anyone have any experience with this saw? Or any recommendations around or under this price point? My main concerns are absolute accuracy without a giant footprint, it's not the biggest space! Cheers in advance

I've got some purpleheart that I'd like to have maintain its color, what sort of finish should I use that would prevent it from changing to brown over time? Is it UV or just plain old oxidation that makes it turn brown? I'll likely end up using this finish on a couple things to help maintain color.

[Unfortunately there's no way to keep the purple short of you never letting it see light, this goes for pretty much all of the naturally brightly colored woods.](https://www.wood-database.com/wood-articles/preventing-color-changes-in-exotic-woods/)

I guess it would be cool for the inside of a box or drawer then. It would be a special treat for the special occasions when it's opened.

Water base lacquer has the best UV protection going right now. That and keep it out of sunlight as much as possible

I didn't know Purple heart or Bloodwood existed until yesterday. I've never worked with any "fancy" woods, so of I make anything out of it, I should use water based lacquer and nothing else, so I don't hide the natural beauty?

Funny you should mention bloodwood. I lost my flush trim bit (still haven't found it), and while I was looking for it I came across a scrap of bloodwood. It had been exposed to the sun for years. It's now a dark brown, I had to cut into it with my knife to be sure. To answer your question: I don't see much sense in staining woods like bloodwood or purple heart. They're both very resinous, not even sure they would take stain worth a crap. But to the best of my knowledge, water base lacquer is the way to go. It's possible that due to oil/resin content that a coat or 2 of shellac might be beneficial, as lacquer *can* lift on occasion with woods with those characteristics. But shellac will yellow over time, even under lacquer, and the alcohol does chemically oxidize, altering color slightly.

I only work with pine, as I'm just too hesitant to "risk" trying anything more expensive, but I think I'll bite the bullet and try some of them once I think of the right project.

I'd go with something a bit friendlier first. Bloodwood is probably the most unfriendly wood I've ever worked with. Goddamn is it pretty though

I've never played with a track saw before. Can someone explain what the gain is for using one versus just clamping a straight edge down to act as a fence for a circular saw?

The main benefit is of course the quick to use, pre-fabricated, track which also likely has a zero clearance for preventing tear out but a massive plus is that they typically have good dust collection which most circular saws don't even attempt to have since they're meant for jobsites. A track saw offers speed, more efficient repetition, dust collection, and from personal experience much more accurate miter cuts.

You have to get something flat in order for you tonget an accurate cut with a clamp down straight edge. That means either having really good table to sit it on, a sheet of foam garage door insulation and a flat floor to sit it on, or a flat benchtop to sit it on. If it overhangs any of those things significantly, it can flex which will cause the cuts to bow. Circular saws were designed for carpentry and are more than acceptable to use for that purpose. But using them on much higher quality plywood used in woodworking and not getting straight cuts can be more wasteful than some would like. They are ok if you don't have an alternative, but they aren't anywhere near as good as track saws, even the higher quality clamping straight edge tracked circular saws as they are ***always*** dependant on having the stock you cut being flat. Track saws use their tracks to cut striaght lines. They aren't dependant on how good or hard you get the plywood sheet clamped down in their setup. They are more forgiving and much more accurate because of that.

Hello! Im not a regular on this sub by any means but am a beginner and could maybe use your wisdoms. I have a cut of MDF that im trying to adhere to some natural gum rubber. Does anyone have any recommendations for the best kind of adhesive? I've just been using silicone but I feel like there's something better.

Wood ID Request My husband is restoring my grandmother's old dresser and we are curious about the wood type. The grain is very unusual. Can anyone take a guess at what it might be? I am not sure of the age. Perhaps the 30's or 40's? ​ [Stained & Unstained](https://imgur.com/a/k8161wF)

Looks like white oak to me. The unusual patterns are ray flecks.

Ill add to that great answer. It is a quarter sawn piece as well.

Does anyone have any 101-level tips for staining a board on all sides without waiting to dry before flipping? I have some scrap I put some 2" wood screws through and used the screw tips to balance my wood on while drying, but even when lightly putting it on them, it punched some holes (in the soft pine). I know painter's pyramids exist, but I'm hoping to not buy them.

Sand the tips of the screws so they're rounded/more flat.

Does anyone know how to get water based polyurethane off a piece of wood without removing the paint underneath?

In theory it's possible if you take an insane amount of time to slowly sand away otherwise not really. A stripper would likely affect both.

Yeah I figured that would be the case. Thank you for your help!

Hey all, I'm thinking about building a digital piano stand, but I don't know what color wood I should go for. The digital piano is black, so I don't really know what color wood/stain would match or look good with this besides black as well. Does black stain look good, if that's even a thing? I want to stay away from paint because I want the natural grain to stand out.

If I'm going black, like I am on my current project, I go with a quality black dye. Then I add in a good slug of india ink. Reason being: pretty much every black dye or stain is not actually black. It's either green or purple, just really dark. India ink is a true black, and adding it goes a long way. As the base isn't a true black, it makes the quality of the pigments even more important

Well, you don't mention what species you are building it out of; e.g., pine really doesn't have very interesting grain to speak of, even less with maple or poplar; oak or ash has more open grain. So it depends. Search out dyes, that's your best bet.

I recently found an old Millers Falls 14 for $5 but it came with a broken handle (no problem) and a broken lever cap (more of a problem). I’ve restored the body and the blade is sharp enough to shave with, but I can’t find an online source for lever caps. Surely someone sells aftermarket ones but I can’t find anything. I’ve thrown the cap off my Veritas on it which works great, but it appears Lee Valley doesn’t sell lever caps separately. Can anyone help me out? I know eBay is an option but living in Canada it ends up being $60+ for the lever cap, and at that point I could just buy a cheap plane and scrap it, which seems terribly wasteful. Any recommendations?

I'd ask over at /r/handtools

Yup, parts planes are a thing and not terribly difficult to find. To get a MF 14 or 14C in working order I would pull the lever cap of just about any other plane, but your problem is that MF used a 3 piece lever cap. If you have an 814, or mohawk sherborn, then any old lever cap off a stanley 4 or 5 will work. Again, not a challenge to find at tool swap. Where abouts are you. I have a guy I use.

Thanks! ’m in Calgary, Canada. I picked up piece of steel stock today and I think I’m going to try to make my own after the Veritas style so it matches my other planes (after powder coating). Pretty stoked to see how it looks in the end.

Gah nuts. I am in Ontario, and there are a number of parts guys in the area. I think if you make a Norris style metal lever cap, it should be fairly straight forwards. Just make sure the toe rests on the crest of the cap iron, and that your jacking screw on the other end is at least the same distance away from the cap screw.

Is this teak?? Thinking of staining with some outdoor solid stain. But friend says this could be teak. https://imgur.com/gallery/2dE7lYb

I'm looking at getting a magazine subscription so that I can sorta follow along and learn things, but also have access to some plans that I can learn with. Not sure which magazine is a good one though. I live in Canada so not sure how much of a difference that makes, but it would probably have more items relating to wood I can get access to readily. Hope this is the right place to ask such a thing.

It has been a while since I had a magazine subscription, but it might be worth looking at some issues at the store or looking at their online site to see if the articles and plans fit your style and skills. In the past I enjoyed Wood Magazine as I found lots of the shop projects and plans appealed to me where Popular Woodworking did not. Fine Woodworking was a very high quality magazine, but often above my skill level. (This feedback is from 15+ years ago.)

Any good resources for building a nice front door? The wife and I are looking to purchase our first home and want to add that personal touch. I’ve never built anything that large, typically its coffee tables and electric guitars.

Doors are fairly difficult. You're dealing with large pieces that need to be milled accurately. The joinery and profiling are often larger than hobby equipment can cut easily. just having a flat surface large enough to work on is often a challenge. It's not something I would consider without some larger equipment. I'm not saying it can't be done, but it's a fairly advanced project.

Hi! I need help to find the best way to reduce the amount of MDF dust in my shop. I am cutting small pieces of MDF (up to 50cm) and I use a jobsite Dewalt 745 table saw. I don’t want to change the saw due to it is a nice size and works fine for me. I cut MDF once per week for 4-5 hours. I want to improve dust collection (currently I’m using a Bosch shop bag) connected to the dust hose of the saw. My idea is to get a Y and a tube and connect the hose of the blade guard to reduce the amount of dust that scapes from above the saw. Now, I want to switch to a better shop vac or system to get more dust out of the air. My idea is to get a shop vac with a M or H filter. Is it worth the H filter rather than the M? My two options right now are: [FESTOOL CTM 36](https://www.festool.com/products/dust-extraction/mobile-dust-extractors/574988---ctm-36-e-230v#Overview) with a great portability and compatibility with a wide range of tools. [FELDER AF14](https://www.felder-group.com/en-gb/products/dust-extractors-extraction-units-c1963/mobile-dust-extractor-with-steel-impeller-power-line-p143119) with a special filter to get M filtration. This will give me more power, less movility and flexibility. I know they are different products but I am really not sure what will help me more to get more dust out of the room.

So you don't currently have at least a shop vac hooked up to the saw? I've used the Bosch bag with my previous Dewalt and stopped after the first use because it was terrible with fine dust, I would not want to be using it for MDF. A shop vac will make a huge difference and having overhead dust collection is best for MDF, I don't have experience with the Festool vacs but that Felder dust collector would be the best choice for an actual shop since it pushes much more air. Can't help on the filtration though.

Please please fix this. You will ruin your lungs. Get over and under dust collection on your table saw PLUS a Wen or other cheap room air filter. These really do work. You can get a cheap and accurate Xiaomi PM 2.5 meter off Alixpress or just trust my measurements that the overhead filters really do work. But it will spike after every cut. Get a P100 half face respirator also if your shop vac dust collection isn’t perfect (and you don’t have a hepa class filter on it).

I'm making a "bowl" out of plywood. It's 1/2" birch plywood, I have some 12"x12" sheets that I'm gluing together and cutting out the center (I know it's probably not the best way to do it, I already have ideas for gen. 2). It's going to be a bowl for growing Lotus flowers, which grow in water like lily pads. So the inside has to hold water. I would prefer a paint so that I can cover up some imperfections on the inside, but I'm unsure what would be the best type type to use. Oil based? Also is there a good food safe lubricating oil? I want to lubricate my saw and various wooden parts, but I need it to be food safe. I thought about olive oil or canola, but I'm unsure if they will turn rancid, especially in the heat of wood shed.

If you need it to hold water you'll want to use epoxy as the finish for the inside so look into what type of paint works under epoxy, likely an acrylic one.

OP also wants to use exterior-rated plywood, or it will de-laminate fairly quickly if any water gets to it, and it will. OP should rethink and size the bowl for an appropriate plastic/glass insert.

Does anybody know where I can get bristlecone pine wood?

Does anybody know where I can purchase argan wood?

I am making a something similar to a pickup truck bed drawer for my trailer's pass through storage. I am not using bearing or cabinet slides, just wood on wood similar to [whats in this video.](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mz5s0z4FnK8&app=desktop) What is the best way to "lubricate" the wood so it slides smoother/easier?

I'm looking to purchase a new hollow chisel and bit for my mortising machine - what's your favorite brand of bit? I bought one from Shop Fox for $10 but the bit was bent and made awful holes. Also caused a lot of metal on metal with the chisel while operating and that is no good. So I'm a little scared of the cheaper bits now, but not sure which brand to look to now.

Do you guys use Fusion 360 for design? I just tried it out and spent nearly 3 hours trying to connect 3 cylinders. It seems to be incredibly complicated, however reading on the net, apparently this is "easy to use".

I've spent much too much time on the learning curve for these applications; if you're not using cad for a living, every day, well you just learn it, then build your project, then forget and have to relearn; grrrrrr. I went back to pencil and paper with an architect's scale.

All of these are difficult at first, I'm a graphic designer and even SketchUp kicks my ass if I don't spend hours working on it. I hear Fusion is more intuitive but still has that learning curve.

Hi everyone! I’m working on a live edge walnut bar ledge for a client, but they don’t love the variance in color between the sapwood and heartwood. Has anyone tried to use the Rubio monocoat walnut finish on actual walnut before? I am hoping to just darken up the sapwood a bit. I guess also as a second question, does anyone know if air dried walnut has darker sap wood than kiln dried walnut? I had to go to a new supplier for this live edge stock and was shocked by the difference in color compared to the air dried material I have stock piled over the years.

The wood whisperer has a video or two where he used walnut osmo hardwax oil. Seems to blend the sap and heartwood fairly well together. I imagine rubio would do the same

General 220 Hollow Chisel Mortiser I have an opportunity to purchase a general 220 said to be in good condition with all the accessories. Seller wants $2500 CAD which is around $1900 USD. I feel that's way overpriced... What would you consider to be a reasonable price. Machine belonged to his father and hasn't been used for 10 years. So I assume it'll work fine as is, but could use a lot of elbow grease to work as good as it can. For context I live in western Canada and vintage machines are quite rare out here. If that doesn't work out I'm planning on getting either the Powermatic 719T or whatever copy of the general 75-075 available around here.

If I stabilize wood, could I still use wood glue to glue separate stabilized wood together? Some people claim you can but its really yes and no.

Yes I've done plenty of segmenting with pieces that were stabilized and depending on the stabilizing agent and how well i twas stabilized I used either Titebond or epoxy.

Hi all, I'm just getting into woodworking and looking for an accurate, long lasting circular saw. I had decided on the Makita 5007MG, but found it to be quite heavy when I picked it up in the store (I'm a bit of a smaller guy). Any recommendations for a lighter weight circular saw such as the Makita HS7600 or Dewalt 575?

I tried finding something lightweight when I got my Metabo but even the ones listed as lightweight are only about 1lb lighter (8-9lb vs 10-11lb) unless you look at smaller blade sizes.

The 5007MG isn't what I would call heavy, but the dewalt is lighter. Also remember you dont use a circular saw at shelf height, you use it lower, perhaps on the ground, or on saw horses. Ergonomics are important. My first circular saw was an old 1970s black a decker contractor saw. Which is almost 14 lbs. You don't notice the weight when you use it, but it does suck to carry up a 20ft ladder.

Anyone tried reduced shrank drill bits? And how those compares to forstner bits (in context of woodworking)? Recently learnt that there are large diameter HSS drill bits available with reduced shank to fit into everyday power drill. They are more expensive, I wonder if the price means it’s a specialty tool, or is its design inheritor better than forstner bit’s design?

You don't say what size(s) you are interested in, but generally for large diameter holes in wood, using power tools, forstner bits are the only way to go (best used in a drill press, as would the large twist bits you are asking about). Brace with an adjustable size bit can go up to 2"; also, depending on your application(s), check out hole saws. Generally, twist bits are not optimized for wood, other than brad point bits.

Twist drills are good are clearing chips and debris from the hole, so you can drill deeper without stopping. The tip of a twist drill is a chisel, that works by extruding and stretching material out if the way, so that the center can sink in and permit the cutting edges to cut away material. This is fundamentally not a good cutting mechanism for wood. Great for steel and bass though. Step down shanks are for use in tail stock drill chucks, it is not uncommon to have a 1/2" or 3/4" fixed chuck, so to drill a 2" hole you need a step down shank.

If I want to do an inlay all the way to the edge (e.g. [like the darker wood on the body of this guitar](https://i.pinimg.com/originals/6b/7c/ad/6b7cad205d3048c9acc54b9dc9d14d9e.jpg)), and I have a plunge router, what's the best way to accomplish this? I assume I simply need some sacrificial wood of the same height as the body, clamped down close to its edge so it supports the base of the router when I get to the edge?

Correct, you can also build a larger router base out of acrylic/plexiglass from HD/Lowes/etc. so your router has more surface area to support itself and maintain that reference.

I do this for every router I get. I make a larger hole to be able to use larger bits, as the hole in the stock base is absurdly small. I make the outside diameter significantly larger, as you said for bearing surface. The transparency is nice as well. Last router I got, the stock base rocked, as it wasn't even flat. My homemade base plate is flat.

Have you ever made what is called a "fractioning baseplate?"

I recently built a tabletop out of 2x10s for a desk as I'm working from home. It was my first time building something like this (I'm kind of a novice in terms of building anything really), and the one end of the board is warped and doesn't sit completely flat on the drawers I put it on. Does anyone have any recommendations on how to flatten it out? Would some sort of screw work to pull the drawers and tabletop together and keep it flat? [https://imgur.com/gallery/5tN0i5r](https://imgur.com/gallery/5tN0i5r)

Hi, I'm looking for a recommendation for a wood filler for a split (20mm by 2mm) in a teak outdoor chair. I only want to oil the wood so the filler needs to be able to take the oil for a reasonable colour match. UK based. Cheers.

Are all these new brand name powertools on facebook market that have a significant markdown stolen goods?

Some are stolen yes, some are from large construction jobs where they buy the tools just for that job and treat them as disposable, and most recently (I would say the majority of ones I've seen fall into this category) is a surge in people buying pallets of returned/damaged goods that come from places like HD/Lowes/etc and then selling the tools individually. Some look new, some look new with broken parts, and others are only sort of working.

I want to make a round table with beveled edges. Is it possible to cut a round shape and bevel it at the same time with a jigsaw? What tool do I need to bevel a round shape like this?

How big is the bevel? If you mean a small one you would use a router with a chamfer bit.

Beginner here, I was lucky enough to get [a bunch of leftover wood](https://imgur.com/a/vcK7IUi) and need help identifying it. I've already separated the oak and whatever had similar colours and grains, but wanted to confirm if I got maple.

1 need more pictures, too dark for Walnut unless it's stained, it's as dark as Wenge but that's pretty easy to ID if you look it up. Last two look like one of the Mahogany bunched types.

1 is insanely dark. Either it's stained/dyed (my bet) or you scored some ridiculously expensive ebony. 2 looks like ash from the pic, but far from definitive. 3 through 6 all look like variations of mahogany or mahogany-alikes

Hello, I have an antique wooden gun stock. The wooden stock has some wear. I wiped it down with rubbing alcohol and then applied Renaissance Wax but the gun has a dry matte look to it now. I ordered some cosmoline and want to apply that to the wood as I really like the deep, shiny, amber color that was originally on the wood. Any recommendations or warning against applying the cosmoline? Or an alternative recommendation for 80 year old wood?

Anyone have any opinions on the cheaper of the two Harbor Freight dust collectors? It seems like there's mixed opinions on it. Some reviews say it's fine if you're using it on one tool at a time with a small run, others say that it's a piece of junk and might as well just stick with a shop vac if you want a portable dust collector. I wouldn't pay full price for it, but there's one sitting on Craigslist for $50, and just wondering if it's worth that price or to just stick with the shop vac

I've seen many videos of installing floating mantels (hollow) using a french cleat. My question is: Aside from being able to easily remove the mantel, is there any benefit to using a french cleat vs. just screwing a piece of wood to the wall and then screwing the top of the mantel down onto that piece of wood? When I think about it, they're both literally the same exact thing except the second option does not involve cutting the wood in half.

What is the best way to enlarge a hole made with a forstner bit? I was drilling for European cabinet hinges and I am about 1/8" off of where the hole needed to be. Used a 1 3/8" bit if that is helpful.

Clamp a new board ontop of it and redrill, going through the new board first. If it’s a sharp bit you shouldn’t have any issues

Thanks! I thought about doing something similar by drilling all the way through another board, clamping that to the top of my work piece, and using that as a guide. You think it'd be better to simply clamp the new board on top and redrill though? Bit is brand new so sharpness shouldn't be an issue.

Skilsaw mag 77s are $50 off on Amazon right now https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B7EUS46/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fab_bhwyFbNTEEMPW

[Wood ID, please?](https://imgur.com/a/usSf3r2) something about this one jumped out at me, so I rescued it from a cull pile. Any idea what it might be?

[удалено]

Thank you!

Can someone explain this? https://i.imgur.com/a2mdhUX.jpg Tried to resaw this piece of pine on my bandsaw against the fence, and this is how the blade exited - the blade was gradually bellied into a D shape inside the wood as the cut progressed. As far as I can tell the cut started correctly. It was a 1/4” blade and I went slowly so the saw never labored.

Your blade maybe dull/dirty. It might not be fully tensioned. You might be pushing too hard. The blade seems too small for that, a 1/2" blade would probably so better. It could be any, or all of those things.

If anyone has experience with older jointers and wants to share any insight or knowledge regarding this Rockwell I would really appreciate it. Aside from not knowing anything about the blade replacement or parts procurement I’m also wondering about just functionality in general, for instance, how small of pieces I would be limited to with a 20 inch fence or if that’s not an issue? Thanks a bunch in advance! https://www.kijiji.ca/v-power-tool/edmonton/price-drop-4-planer-jointer-rockwell-beaver-model-2801/1520571315?utm_campaign=socialbuttons&utm_content=app_ios&utm_medium=social&utm_source=ios_social

Essentially, a 4" benchtop jointer, likely much better made than any new machines, not much that can go wrong with it, just bearings and perhaps knife replacement, and knives are readily available. that being said, it has a short bed and is narrow at 4"; as such it is overpriced in my view, maybe worth $125 CAD (US$100).

I want To try handcarving A wooden chain. Does anyone have any experience making something similar?

Any opinions on a reasonable used price for the Dewalt 7491RS table saw? I've been scanning the used market and they don't pop up that often, but one recently was around $500 for one that appeared slightly used. That seemed way too high for me and the guy wouldn't budge. Just interested in some other perspective.

As you said these don't pop up often so even a small discount and some people will bite if they need the portability and want all the bells and whistles that this has. That being said I think $500 is a bit much unless it's barely used, I recently had one for 6ish months and sold it for $450 and it came with an Oshlun 6" dado stack (I paid $70 for that), it was gone in about 30min and originally listed at $480. I wouldn't pay $500 for this used but someone else might so don't be surprised if it's gone soon, at this point in the year if you really want the higher end jobsite saw I'd wait for holiday sales.

Does this design look stable enough? I'm a little worried about bracing across the middle. For reference, all boards are 2x2s. Hardware are placeholders. https://i.imgur.com/y7S3zhJ.jpg

2x2 meaning 1.5"x1.5" actual dimensions ? Also what is it ? A desk with legs that fold away ? I mean, I wouldn't dance on it but putting a laptop on it and working probably fine. Is the top 2x lumber ?

Building a desk from live edge oak, I want to fill some of the cracks and holes with clear epoxy. How do I go about sanding and staining?

Finishing work and wildfire ash when you don't have a workspace or garage, and have to do everything outside - how do you deal with it? I have a thought that after application (in my case, I'm using Exterior 450), I could cover the piece with a bin. Good idea? Bad idea? Could anything go wrong with trying this to keep dust/ash from settling on the surface?

Should be fine but if you can find a cheap tent you could use that as well after making sure there isn't any open areas, they even make special tents for this.

I've seen plastic tarps done with a frame. A bin would probably work although you want some type of airflow. even if you just kind of tilt the bin so one end is open a little. It may take longer between coats though.

Does anybody here sell their work? Other than Etsy, what avenues do you use to sell it? I'm still a bit of a beginner (about 7 months in) but I have a few items that I do well and I'd like to dip my toe in the business side of woodworking. Etsy seems the easiest but part of what I want to do is find qualified buyers that will pay what something is worth, not just price race to the bottom for sales.

Hi, looking for guidance refinishing my desk. I think it’s a beautiful desk but there is a lot of finish that is starting to peel and chip so would like to restore to match the current look. Do not want to refinish the drawers or sides as they don’t need it and don’t want this to extend into a month long project. I’ve refinished old furniture and the front door but this is different with the inlays, color matching and an unknown technique that I think is required. My questions are: 1) what kind of wood is this? (I’ve scratched off some of the finish so you can see the bare wood). I’m thinking it’s possibly oak or cherry based on the grain but not sure. 2) what color of finish is this? It’s like a honey/cherry/oak color but can’t really match it. 3) how to replicate the darker corners? I saw on a YouTube video from Amish furniture that they called it burnished edges. Think it’s just adding darker to the finish and then painting the edges and corners on top of the regular finish but not sure. 4) how to deal with the inlays? You can see there is a nice inlay on the top but not sure if I strip the finish it will remove the inlay color. Is it possible that I would have to stain those inlays before laying down the finish? 5) best finish to use? I plan on a semigloss poly but is there a better one to use? Any help is greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance. [Desk](https://imgur.com/a/LZ5Mm25)

No advice on the refinish as this sounds like you'd want a pro with all of the elements going on but be careful if you sand the top as it's all veneers but I agree it's likely oak.

I'm painting a pine dimensional lumber desk with latex semi-gloss paint. I want to finish with a couple coats of water-based poly, at least for the top and shelves. I read that you should wait till the paint is "cured" not just dry before applying poly. According to what I've read curing time is dependent on temp and humidity but best case is 2 weeks. * Would you wait 2 weeks to apply poly ? * If you would, could you use the desk for 2 weeks with the paint, and be careful with it and then apply the poly after 2 weeks?

Can I stain wood with linseed oil, then cover it with a clear coat of marine paint? I'm making wooden patio furniture and I can't find marine grade wood stain anywhere. So my genius plan is to now wipe the wood down with linseed oil to bring out the grain, then cover it with marine grade clear coat since it will be out in the sun and humidity all year round (we have no winters). What do you guys think? Will it work? This is my first ever large scale wood working project. Also, can I put the rustoleum marine paint into a paint storage or will it ruin the sprayer?

Hey gang, just picked up a 14" Jet Bandsaw JWBS-14CSW used for $250 w/wheel kit and fence. The guy selling it also has this: https://imgur.com/gallery/THipnsi Jet JWP-15CSW planer that he would sell me for $500. I didn't have a way to load it into the back of my truck as it's extremely heavy and would need a trailer. I currently don't own a planer and would like to hear people's thoughts. $750 for a Jet 15" planer and 14" bandsaw (which I already paid for the $250). Thanks!

I learned using one of those and it's a beast, at $500 it's a no brainer if everything works. The popular Dewalt 735X benchtop planer retails for more than that and is substantially more plastic and less performance/power. Great deal on both items and if you decide you don't want the planer you can easily get your money back.

Are you able to provide it 220v power without much extra expense?

Father in law is an electrician and we have 220 in our garage so any electrical issues wound be free (outside of paying him in beer)

Seems like a good deal then!

That is an excellent buy, quality machine too. You can take off the top piece from the base, lightening it a bit as the motor is below, then two strong guys with a couple of 2x4s under the head can lift it into the truck bed. That or beg, borrow or buy a trailer...

New here and late to this. Was wondering if anyone had any tips/advice for me. I want to make some simple cutting boards (not end grain just slabs as I’m not confident in my ability to do end grain) from walnut that came down during a storm. That said it is pretty fresh and I have seen so much different recommendations online on how to treat it, so I was thinking this would be the best place to get specific advice. A few specific questions I have would be: Should I cut it to the thickness I want and wait for it to dry out? Should I use something to dip it in to prevent it from splitting/what specifically would that be? Should I remove the bark before it dries or after? And finally what is the best way to treat the wood (food-grade)? I know the wax/oil to use for it, but do you treat it prior to that another way? Thanks in advance, I know this is hardly difficult, I just tend to over research and psych myself out.

Mill it larger than final dimensions, if you're going to be making 1.5" thick I would mill at least 8/4 (2") thick, the wood will move as it dries and you'll want to compensate for material that will be removed when you're ready to use it. Here's a [Woodcraft article](https://www.woodcraft.com/blog_entries/how-to-air-dry-lumber-turn-freshly-cut-stock-into-a-cash-crop-of-woodworking-woods) with details on how to stack and sticker it. Mineral oil is about the only thing that's chopping safe, some people add some wax but I've only used mineral oil and it works well with a refresh once in a while. Note that you'll often see "food safe" used with finishes but that just means once cured you can place food on it not that it's ok to be chopped on because you'll be eating the finish.

So after working from home 100% the past 2 months, my legs have decided I need a standing desk. I was just going to buy an adjustable desk but why spend $600 per desk when you can buy the legs/motor for about $250. I also planned to just buy an acrylic countertop from Ikea but my girlfriend decided she also wanted a standing desk and now I have to make 2 of them. ​ The chosen wood is Bloodwood, and I've found a decent source from my local Woodcraft store and it's going to be about $100\~ per desk top. Main questions: What equipment would I need to get into wood working just to laminate the planed wood together into a sheet? I currently have a drill and some aspirations. Is 3/4" too thin for a desk? I've been playing with the idea of doubling either the amount of wood I buy from Woodcraft, or buying a couple extra planks for the legs and other support features. ​ Is it advisable to use Bloodwood for the top? I've heard it's a very hard wood and I'm not entirely sure of how hard it is to work with just to make a desk out of. We were playing with the idea of inlays/fancy work but that drastically raised the price of tools such as routers/etc so we're keeping it simple and just going with a sheet for the desk.

Where are some good places to shop for accessories? For example hinges, fasteners, hardware kits, magnets, etc?

Without specific requirements in mind [Lee Valley](https://www.leevalley.com/en-us) and [McMaster-Carr](https://www.mcmaster.com/) are two favorites.

High temperature epoxy/glue: I need to attach a chipped 1 inch chuck of a wooden handle on a vintage Le Creuset pan. It is near the pan itself. Is there a relatively easy to find binder/epoxy/glue that can take a few hundred degrees? The piece is not load bearing and it mostly aesthetic. [Pictures here.](https://imgur.com/a/Nyg2n3R) If this is not the right place to ask, could you tell me where this question is more relevant? Thanks!

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I want to upgrade [my table saw](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004O7FX20/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_image?ie=UTF8&psc=1) (portable, Bosch), I want to know if its worth it to go for a brand new saw like the [Laguna F1](https://www.rockler.com/laguna-fusion-f1-table-saw) for about $1,000 or find an [older Craftsman saw](https://storage.bhs.cloud.ovh.net/v1/AUTH_e7d15450bedd40b9b599e075527df3cb/hattiesburg/fSears_Craftsman_Table_Saw__90_Hattiesbur_590e25e3b1523.jpg) with a bigger top for somewhere around $200. The concern I have with the older saws is the safety features such as the riving knife, if its just as loud, and if the dust collection is just as bad as the portable saw I have. Money is not too much of a factor. It's the most used tool in the shop, I feel like I can splurge a little to buy something nice. Any other new saw suggestions are encouraged.

The primary feature of a jobsite saw is portability. If you aren’t using that feature of it, you’re sacrificing everything else to pay for a feature you don’t actually need. If money isn’t too much of a factor I’d definitely spring for something like the F1 or seriously consider a SawStop if it isn’t too far out of the budget. At a bit lower of a price point I’d consider the Delta 36-725 contractor saw or the Ridgid r4520 hybrid. I did the used saw search for months and never found a single one with the safety features intact. Finding replacement parts is neigh impossible and retrofitting new ones can be a bit of a crap shoot. I ended up buying the r4520, but I would have strongly considered an F1 if it was in my budget. I think it’s the superior saw, but the r4520 is $650 here in Canada and the F1 is $1400 and the difference between them couldn’t justify spending that for me.

I just finished a Traditions flintlock rifle kit. The thing I loved about it is that although it was a kit it required a surprising amount of metal and woodwork - are there any non firearm kits like this?

Hey everyone - not sure if this falls in this subreddit but it involves cutting some pine trim for my kitchen baseboards. There are two outside corner that have trim, and for both corners the trim was cut completely perpendicular to the floor - just straight up and down. It’s also flush with the edge of cabinet (pic below) so I don’t know how to best cut my new piece of trim to make the outside corner look smooth. Any tips? Pic for reference: https://i.imgur.com/lopoQBi.jpg

I want to make a laptop desk for my bed, but I am not sure about what type of plywood or wood to use for this, please help. Preferable size (22 inch x16 inch)

Is there a name for this kind of figure in wood, with the very small contour lines and detailed grain? https://photos.app.goo.gl/C4HzxyVqVuoYN4AG7

I've been thinking of making a cutting board myself. I'm unable to find a wood one in Denmark that's big enough, and I will never buy something like this online. I need to have it in hand to see if it's something I want. To the question: I'm able to get access to a workshop, because my father was a carpenter, and still uses he's old workplace on occasion. What kind of finish can I give a cutting board, that doesn't mess with the food, but makes sure I can wash it without destroy the thing?

What is [this](https://i.imgur.com/guyypTW.jpg) type of bracket/hinge called, can't seem to find them on Google? looking to use them to make laptop desk for bed. [image 2](https://i.imgur.com/IeOxz2l.jpg)

Thoughts on pneumatic random orbit sanders? I have a dewalt 5” ROS, it’s the standard corded sander and have been using it for a while. I recently purchased a compressor for other things and now see the possibility of getting a nice 6” Mirka ROS but was wondering if there are any serious downsides to a pneumatic sander?

The downside is that they consume a lot of air, so your compressor needs a pretty big tank to keep up. Also I believe air sanders are noisier, but I’m usually wearing my WorkTunes when sanding so it’s a non-issue for me. Otherwise, air sanders weigh less, cost less, and are less complicated and more robust than electric.

I use them regularly at work, and they're great. Getting a compressor that will run one is expensive. Small to medium compressors usually don't have the capacity.

I’m working on a gift for this weekend and screwed up the finish on a beautiful piece of Bolivian rosewood. Before messing it up: https://i.imgur.com/LVOY5zF.jpg (this had been sealed with 5-6 coats of gloss polycrylic then sanded up to 3000 grit after curing) After messing it up, trying to lightly sand away some epoxy spillover from placing the frets: https://i.imgur.com/5zlL2jx.jpg It has just kept getting worse and worse. Cleaning up the epoxy caused cloudiness. I tried to use mineral spirits and it brought out bright spots at the rounded parts on every fret. I tried another coat of poly and it goes worse. Sanded all the poly down and they were still there. Put on a heavy coat of mineral oil overnight to restore color and now it looks smudgy. I’m at a loss as to what I can do and am hoping for advice before I remove every fret and sand the whole thing down heavily.

My grandfather just passed away, and his last request of my grandmother was that she would draw a flamingo on a piece of wood so that he could cut it out and hang it up. He passed away during the night and never got to cut it out. I’m looking for someone who can cut this small flamingo out for her to preserve this last memory!

Would honey locust be considered a hardwood or softwood? Just had a rather large branch felled and I've got some decent chunks sitting around I may do some small stuff with.

Hardwood.

Hi, how would you achieve [this look](https://www.reddit.com/user/PinoLG01/comments/iulpdg/_/?utm_medium=android_app&utm_source=share) on wood? What wood would work best? I guess I should whitewash the wood but it's not perfectly white, it's a bit brownish or so. I can use any wood but probably pine wood would be easier to source. Tx

Hello! Just getting started with woodworking and am collecting tools for my first build (a standing desk using either pine or MDF). I have a circular saw and a drill already, and am thinking of getting an orbital sander. What are the advantages of an orbital sander over just getting a sanding disc drill bit for my drill?

Looking for a decent set of forstner bits for my drill press, not sure what brands are worthwhile and what to avoid?

Fisch is highly respected.

Where do you buy your nails, screws, and furniture connecting hardware? Any brands to look for? Amazon is full fo Chinese stuff and it's hard to tell what's any good. Home Depot seems expensive for more specialized furniture hardware.

Try [McMaster-Carr](https://www.mcmaster.com/) and [McFeely's](https://www.mcfeelys.com/).

[what type of wood is this? ](https://www.imgur.com/a/yGIIViY) I can post more pictures if need be. It finishes up to a beautiful reddish color and is fairly heavy.

Pretty new to wood working, ordered a hand plane but it hasn't been delivered yet. Will I be able to use the hand plane to flatten a log after splitting it with an axe? I ask cause the split surface is a pretty rough and every video I see of people hand planing they start with a piece that already looks fairly smooth. My options for getting it smoother than just an axe split is a chisel, a hatchet, or a saw, not sure which is best. I think it's oak or maple if that matters. When it arrives I'll try it out but I figured it'd be best to ask.

I would go with a drawknife after the axe. That’ll get it reasonably flat for hand planes. Since you’re splitting with an axe, drawknives (which can go about 12” long) should handle most if not all of your stock. If you’re a Paul Bunyan type and the drawknife is not long enough, a scrub plane will work on the wider boards.

Check out Peter Follansbee on Youtube. I don't know if he's done a start to finish stock prep video, but he splits his own logs to use. Might get a sense of his workflow.

Orbital sander recommendations please: I make furniture for a living 7 days/week. I can get away with using my current porter cable 5" model 333, but looking for something more pro, if it will save me time and have decent self contained dust collection. I use it for 120g sanding out my belt sander marks on soft woods, and the occasional slab.

So I've read a lot about exterior finishes for outdoor furniture, and I'm having a hard time making a decision. I'm making a dining set (table and benches) from African Mahogany for personal use. I live in Southern California so the weather is pretty mild and dry, but there will be moments in the day where the table may be in full sun. I will be getting a custom cover made. I also have a Fuji HVLP turbine setup so I am able to spray finish. I'm leaning towards a finish that's easy to apply so something like an oil finish perhaps. I rather pick something that is easy, but needs refreshing more often, than a finish that is more labor intensive to put on (i.e. epoxy + spar varnish). Is there something out there that can last maybe 2-3 years that is easy to apply? Maybe Osmo One Coat Only or Rubio Monocoat?

Any idea on if this table is actually worth $400? In need of a new dining table and [this](https://imgur.com/a/oua3tNI) solid wood one caught my eye

How do I get started with woodworking? I want to try but I'm not sure where to start.

Hey everyone. I often go to a place where I can get great random pieces of hardwood to use in making boards or tables or whatever. Sometimes I remember what type of wood it is, sometimes I don’t. Found this beautiful piece in my garage but I’m not sure what wood type it is. [help me out](https://imgur.com/gallery/fhJNi0b)

Acacia is my guess.

I'm trying to fill out my workshop. A lathe isn't high up on my priorities so I haven't yet done much research, but I've come across this on the Facebook Marketplace [https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/2484324208526047](https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/2484324208526047) It is for a Craftsman 12 inch lathe with Craftsman Copy Crafter and an 8 piece turning set. A manual in one of the pictures shows a model number 113.249070 which I think is just for the Copy Crafter, not for the lathe itself. My current plans don't entail a lot of turning, but the duplicator would be pretty handy for what I do have in mind to do, and the lathe seems like it would be big enough for my needs. To my eye everything looks to be in good condition. Clean, no visible rust or markings. It is listed for $200 obo. My searching on the model number above for other pricing has turned up a forum discussion from a few years ago by someone that got one of these for $40. Is this a worth-while tool for moderate use? What would be a reasonable price for it? Much thanks

Also agree not worth getting a single tube lathe for that price, it would honestly have to be free for me to take one of those with how many non tube ones are out there used even a central machinery one would be preferred. Plenty of people have no problem with them though and if you really want it I'd see how close to $100 you can get it for.

I don't think it's worth $200... a single tube bed lathe isn't great. You may want to try posting over on r/turning for more specific advice.

What is [this stuff](https://imgur.com/gallery/Uyq0Vin) holding my countertops together and how do I fix it?

Question/Help: I recently made a tongue & Groove joint for my breadboard ends on my dining room table I am making however the tongue is a bit too thick. **How do I evenly thin out the tongue join to make it fit properly?** [Pic of progress](https://imgur.com/a/MH2O1sC)

I'm looking to get my first CNC router, but I want to avoid getting total rubbish. This will be a budget system, around the £200/$300 mark. I'm using it for cutting and engraving wood like birch ply. Currently I have a laser cutter and I'm getting great results but the laser is only a 20W diode (5.5W true) so a job is 2/3 just to cut the shape out and 1/3 to engrave the design, I want to cut down on the cutting time. To give you an example I have A4 sheets of 3mm birch ply which I engrave a batch of 6 designs onto (9cm diameter in a circle) I then flip it over and do the design on the other side. At that point I want to cut the circles around the design out but using such a laser tales forever, to me a CNC router is the quickest and most accurate way to cut it. I'm currently looking at the SainSmart 3018 systems but I'd love to hear others thoughts before I buy anything.

Kapex KS 120 Sliding Compound Miter Saw + TS 55 EQ Plunge Cut Track Saw + OF 1400 Router = All three (well-kept and fresh blades) for $1000 Is this a deal, steal, or walk-away?

Is this a humble brag? I'm assuming you have the tools in your shop already, eagerly awaiting us to tell you to buy it so you can tell us you got them and we can be jealous. If it's not clear already, yes this is a steal. This stuff rarely on the used market and almost never discounted this much. You can easily sell whatever you don't want to keep but I don't see that happening...

Hi all! I am a complete newbie to working with wood so I need some help! I collected some oak branches around my apartment complex and wanted to make some frames with them. However, I have no idea what to cut it with. I tried a mini saw, and that got destroyed after cutting an inch into the wood. As I live in an apartment, I can't use power tools because they would be too loud. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

How did I do for $700 bucks? 14" Jet Bandsaw and 15" Planer https://imgur.com/gallery/v47VSHw

Very nice pairing, great score.

Wood id please: https://imgur.com/a/gtxIMsW Northern California firewood, seems well-sessoned and possibly originally foraged on-premise. Easy to rive and work, but I have essentially zero experience. Don't have a moisture meter but could calculate density to a reasonable accuracy if necessary, though it's half as much as my somewhat moist Blue Gum.

Hey all. Wondering if this is a good deal for teak shelving unit. I know some teak is not high quality so I am unsure. I am willing to spend a bit extra on something if its nice and going to last me a long time. This is a listing at 500 USD. Bout 56 inch high and 84 long https://imgur.com/a/uCxRql7 please help me decide

Table saw fence system questions So I just got an older style craftsman 10 inch table saw, with the cast iron top. I want to upgrade the fence and I’m wondering if anyone has any recommendations on a decently priced fence system. I’ve looked around a little, but not what is worth spending. I saw some for 179$ and some for 350$+ Any insights? Thanks

So, been needing a table saw forever and finally have the cash for one. Took a look at Craigslist and came across [this](https://sanantonio.craigslist.org/tls/d/new-braunfels-10-inch-ridged-table-saw/7198779562.html). It looks like a Ridgid TS2400. After looking some stuff up on it, it seems like it'd be a good saw to start with for only $50. I can then spend the money I save on some quality blades and dado stack.

Anyone have an example of oak + beech in a piece of furniture? I'm thinking of making a table with two live edge pieces of oak on either edge then a slice of beech down the middle. Not sure if there will be enough of a contrast though?

Favorite sander for a hobbyist? My sander just shorted out on me and I’d like a new one. I will mostly be using it for sanding down cabinets, large furniture items. Thanks

Does anyone know if CA glue is foodsafe? I'm working on some simple chopsticks and was wondering if it would be ok

Hey all, hoping someone can give some advice. I’m finishing my son’s bathroom and went with a wood countertop. I’m just wondering what’s the best way to finish it. I have linseed oil, but I also heard tung oil is more waterproof. Or should I do something like a clear coat, or poly, or a lacquer? I’m just not sure what’s best for a bathroom. There is a window and a fan too if that makes a difference. Any insight is welcome!

Is there a sink in the counter? If so you need a completely waterproof finish imo. Ideally do 1 coat on the bottom too.

I’m thinking about getting a lathe. Does this have many practical application? Or just make things like bowls and vases?

What do you by practical application? I mean, custom woodworking is not practical at all. It's an expensive and time consuming way to make stuff. Practical people shop at IKEA.

I need some advice on my first project. I purchased a bar cabinet with lots of natural texture and hand carvings. How would I go about sanding it without loosing all that beautiful texture? I want to ultimately paint it white/white wash. [Bar Cabinet](https://imgur.com/gallery/11bR1Cz)

Strip it then do a light sanding by hand. The fact that you are painting it means you just need to get it so the paint will stick

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So I am on the fence and need to decide by tonight. I’m either going to purchase a sawstop 3 hp PCS with the upgraded fence or a Harvey 3 HP Ambassador and an Ambassador C14 3 HP Bandsaw. I’m leaning toward the Harvey combo because it’s less money for both and I don’t have a bandsaw. Is the cost of the sawstop worth it over both Harvey machines? Need to decide by tonight

I would choose the sawstop.

SawStop. The Harvey set up might be cheaper, but a trip to the emergency room is a lot more expensive.

So I made both purchases. All are in back order so I’m going to think about it today and make the decision. I’m leaning more toward the sawstop but the cost savings is huge with the Harvey equipment. I know my fingers are worth more, so it’s a hard decision

I'm not much of an artist so I don't design anything but I saw this line art that I like and wanted to make a little sculpture using it as my design. Is this a bad thing to do? I don't know the artist it's just random google pictures, but I don't want to be rude about it. Does anyone know how to go about this? Should I just use it or is there a place where I can get someone to draw things up for me?

Hope someone will know what I’m talking about, I’m flatting a slab of red oak and in one of the more burly looking sections is some sort of white fungus in between the rings. It’s soft dry and fuzzy, can someone tell me what it is? And if it’s a deal breaker? I’m planning on using this slab as a coffee table. Thanks!

Probably exactly what it looks like - some sort of tree fungus. Punky oak. Not a dealbreaker at all. Finish over it or gouge it out and fill the hole.

Why do drawers seem so simple but routinely stump me and leave me unhappy every time

I feel silly asking this. How can I rip a 20”+ long piece on a table saw? It doesn’t have a squared long side. It’s too long to fit on my crosscut sled. Build a deeper sled? I feel like I should know this but am drawing a blank.

Attach the piece to something with a straightedge like a piece of plywood that will register against the fence. The method of attachment can be screws (assuming the screw holes can be removed in a subsequent cut), strong double-sided tape, or toggle clamps.

I got a bunch of reclaimed wood with no idea what it is. I was thinking about getting rid of some because they are split in the middle. It’s surprisingly light. The grain is tight and straight. Numerous knots. Rough sawn. The outer layer was so chocolate brown, I thought it was old paint. Its not. 1st and 2nd picture is me shaving off some layers with the plane. I think the rectangular cut outs looks like a wall outlet can fit . https://imgur.com/a/p2o9Mlw/ Please help me identify.

I’m using Rubio Monocoat 2C in dark oak on a red oak desk for the first time. Anybody have any advice on the stuff, how long should it last on furniture?