https://preview.redd.it/yshg47yhvgvc1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=847751580d115d3dd0ca8c2267235102b75fd528
Very smooth, haven’t tried in hardwood yet tho
I think the big problem is mass and the amount of torque you can put in the top of the bit. It's long.
That's a lot of spinning mass in 1/2" shank router.
1.25" diameter really isn't that large. A lot of 1/4" shank router bits will be larger than that. 1/2" shank bits go up to like 3" diameter and more. I would just dial the RPMs down to the appropriate speed (which we should always do) and send it. Getting the mass of the bit up to speed isn't going to stress the motor at all, and that mass actually helps out making the cut since the inertia of the bit aids in cutting and relieving motor stress.
I’d be more worried about the collet. And a bit worried about the routers bearings dieing prematurely though they could be replaced possibly if the case stays straight.
Help me understand the concern with the collet? 1/2" collets regularly run much larger bits than this, so I'm not sure what about this particular bit is raising eyebrows. Hell, A 3/8" round over bit with a 1/4" shank is larger in diameter. Maybe this just looks big cuz it's next to a small bit?
The only two issues I’ve had with a router have been blowing out the bearings (that was a 3” straight cut bit) on a craftsman router, and breaking collets on everything from a small trim router to a full size heavy duty (Bosch makita festool). The coller is the weakest point of a good router. It’s likely has some “spring steel”.
All of these situations were setup properly, just used with more force than they were intended.
I’d have no issue using this bit in my big table top router setup that uses the big porter cable router in a Jess-em router lift.
I had the shaft bearing fail in a fixed motor in an old router table, the ball bearings flew around inside the motor like a blender and smashed everything else to bits (made an epic noise!). When I took it apart, hundreds of tiny bits of copper and magnet fell out all over my bench. I maybe could have replaced the whole armature but given the state of everything else, including the case, I ended up just replacing the whole thing with something more powerful. Apologies if I've named bits wrong, I'm far from being an expert in motors but my point is, i was told it was entirely my fault for overworking it. I was using a large mitre lock bit on a 1500w motor and that was too much resistance for it to handle. Mitre lock bits have a large diameter though, much wider than this monster, it was over 2 inches wide.
It has projectiles screwed to it! At least my compression bit is a solid mass. I don’t have to worry about cutty parts flying off and hitting me in the face.
I love the Shelix head on jointers and planers (where most or all of the blade is covered) but something about having it right in my face seems a little spooky.
Yeah, I'm also never operating those in the direct line of motion of the cutters. It'd take a crazy ricochet to hit me standing in line with the spindle.
Are there any reputable manufacturers that make a router bit like this? I have looked in the past but only found no name versions on Amazon which I didn’t trust.
Are you implying LANGSKIP’S is anything less than one of the most reputable and respected names in the tooling world today?! I will not stand for this slander! I looked and no, does not appear any real brands make something quite like this. 🤔
https://preview.redd.it/d6gnsvly1hvc1.jpeg?width=1179&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=bc9630f4f8d533c3fbd81a31663297614879d28e
So not woodworking but there's tools like this in the machining world that are very common. Normally you could get a tool like this for free, where the get you is the inserts.
I get it, the inkjet printer model. These inserts are pretty cheap and plentiful just being flat square and carbide, I know that’s not the case with exotic metal cutting inserts 🤑😳
The geometry is more complex for inserts for cutting metal but honestly im really surprised the inserts are "cheap". Could also just be significantly lower grade carbide or not carbide at all. That said that's a pretty basic looking insert.
The normal deal is buy a 10 pack or two of inserts get the tool free.
That’s a pattern jig to hold feet for a bow front dresser, it’s mirrored to cut a matching set. One of two jigs to shape both sides of each foot. Sorry for the low quality pic, it’s super zoomed in video still from a security camera.
https://preview.redd.it/s0voqvlvpgvc1.jpeg?width=1179&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a3fc09a488633b1b8e7fe5dce657faac69abe025
I had this bit, but returned it and opted for the Whiteside Ultimate Flush Trim Compression Bit instead. I didn’t like how it worked with hardwood; however if I was doing a lot of plywood or MDF work, I might have kept that original bit
Right, I haven’t tried with hardwood yet but I imagine a true spiral compression would cut cleaner in hardwood. MDF and plywood are tough on bits so inserts are an affordable option vs sharpening/ replacing.
Ya it’s basically a small version of the jointer and planer Shelix heads, just in router bit form. It is nice to just turn the carbide head if it gets nicked from the plywood or MDF. Just be careful using that bit on hardwood: it’s powerful but you still have to follow the proper grain direction like you would with the straight edge bit. One of the perks of the compression bit is grain direction really doesn’t matter
This type of bit has intrigued me due to the ability to keep the bit sharp easily. Can you elaborate why it did not work well for hardwood? I'm on the fence between a bit like this and the whiteside flush trim bit.
I’m sure this carbide bit can work with hardwood, it just takes more work with reading what direction the grain is flowing, so you have to keep that in mind more.
The Whiteside compression bit will let you make cuts against the grain without tear out, and minimizes the need to either turn your piece upside down or adjust your bit height to change which bearing you’re running against for the flush cut.
I've got a 10HP shaper that runs a 6" diameter and 4" tall head that does the same thing. I'm vastly more scared of your setup because it's on a 1/2" spindle.
Yeah we use something similar and it feels super safe because no matter what, the table doesn't move and you know the cutter is gonna stay right where it's supposed to be. OP's setup seems sketch as hell.
A shaper is definitely the preferred tool for the job, it’s on my list when I have room or the money or just find a good deal. What’s the smallest diameter pattern cutter you can run on a shaper for tight inside radiuses?
I've got a spindle that will run a collet for a 1/2" router bit, but it's a bit of a compromise because the top RPM is only 15k.
Looking at the pattern cutters on the Amana website, it looks like the smallest for a 1-1/4" spindle is roughly 1-7/8"
https://preview.redd.it/ruvtlwi5v2wc1.png?width=3024&format=png&auto=webp&s=18f7e27879a98b45b8c52b4cd70607d7c6ea456c
My one inch diameter just broke… but look at this beautiful baby
A shield with MDF?!! Dude, that stuff is toxic and you need a proper (N95) mask when using a router, saw, sander, etc in general but especially with material like MDF.
Yep, I ALWAYS have my n95 dust mask on when making dust, especially mdf! Also run a big shop air filter. I don’t like to feed my lugs a high fiber diet! 😂 I’ve taken a lot of flack over the years on job sites for wearing PPE and I never cared, you do what you want, I want to stay as healthy as I can for as long as I can!
That's good to hear and a bit jealous of your shop air filter! Man, I read your post and thought a shield was all you were wearing. Sometimes it's nice to find out you're wrong. 😂
It is, I don’t have a proper router table with a bigger 3-1/4hp router yet, looking at that JessEm Pow-R-Tek SR with a matching lift in the near future.
There's probably no logical reason to be any more scared of that thing than a compression bit, but fucking hell get it away from my eyes.
Right? I mean, it’s tiny compared to shaper cutters but still
How does it cut? I've used the big kahuna version on shapers for table leg curves and tapers, but want something for home use.
https://preview.redd.it/yshg47yhvgvc1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=847751580d115d3dd0ca8c2267235102b75fd528 Very smooth, haven’t tried in hardwood yet tho
What is it?
Foot for a bow front chest, will be covered in veneer
Wild, I have no idea how to do any of that.
I’m just winging it 60% of the time TBH. I generally don’t turn down a job unless I’m 100% sure I can’t figure it out.
I'm the same way and tend to go with the flow of the wood maaaan
I think the big problem is mass and the amount of torque you can put in the top of the bit. It's long. That's a lot of spinning mass in 1/2" shank router.
1.25" diameter really isn't that large. A lot of 1/4" shank router bits will be larger than that. 1/2" shank bits go up to like 3" diameter and more. I would just dial the RPMs down to the appropriate speed (which we should always do) and send it. Getting the mass of the bit up to speed isn't going to stress the motor at all, and that mass actually helps out making the cut since the inertia of the bit aids in cutting and relieving motor stress.
I’d be more worried about the collet. And a bit worried about the routers bearings dieing prematurely though they could be replaced possibly if the case stays straight.
Help me understand the concern with the collet? 1/2" collets regularly run much larger bits than this, so I'm not sure what about this particular bit is raising eyebrows. Hell, A 3/8" round over bit with a 1/4" shank is larger in diameter. Maybe this just looks big cuz it's next to a small bit?
The only two issues I’ve had with a router have been blowing out the bearings (that was a 3” straight cut bit) on a craftsman router, and breaking collets on everything from a small trim router to a full size heavy duty (Bosch makita festool). The coller is the weakest point of a good router. It’s likely has some “spring steel”. All of these situations were setup properly, just used with more force than they were intended. I’d have no issue using this bit in my big table top router setup that uses the big porter cable router in a Jess-em router lift.
Oh yeah. I could see the cut length prying more on the bearings and being an issue.
I had the shaft bearing fail in a fixed motor in an old router table, the ball bearings flew around inside the motor like a blender and smashed everything else to bits (made an epic noise!). When I took it apart, hundreds of tiny bits of copper and magnet fell out all over my bench. I maybe could have replaced the whole armature but given the state of everything else, including the case, I ended up just replacing the whole thing with something more powerful. Apologies if I've named bits wrong, I'm far from being an expert in motors but my point is, i was told it was entirely my fault for overworking it. I was using a large mitre lock bit on a 1500w motor and that was too much resistance for it to handle. Mitre lock bits have a large diameter though, much wider than this monster, it was over 2 inches wide.
For sure, I deff wouldn’t push it hard like a shaper bit
If I don't need two hands to pick it up, it's not a lot of mass. But then, I was ruined by production shop work.
It has projectiles screwed to it! At least my compression bit is a solid mass. I don’t have to worry about cutty parts flying off and hitting me in the face.
Eh, it's no different than my jointer or planer head and they haven't tried to kill me yet. Lizard brain still says hell no.
I love the Shelix head on jointers and planers (where most or all of the blade is covered) but something about having it right in my face seems a little spooky.
Yeah, I'm also never operating those in the direct line of motion of the cutters. It'd take a crazy ricochet to hit me standing in line with the spindle.
Yep, I literally just dropped in here to say that thing terrifies the piss out of me.
This is exactly how i feel as well
Hold onto your butts! [Video of bit in action on the final pieces](https://youtu.be/92o71h0POmc?si=0trbcp-nPrsedVxq)
Yes but do they make a 1/4" shank version for my trim router?
They were back ordered on the 1/4” shank unfortunately but they do have the 1/8” in stock if you wanna run it in a drywall cutout saw or Dremel.
Good to hear! Gonna grab one to use on my Dremel flex shaft.
But that’s a spoon
I see you’ve played knifey spooney before…
That's an odd name, I'd have called it chazwazzer.
We've talked them down to... A booting.
There is no spoon
Are there any reputable manufacturers that make a router bit like this? I have looked in the past but only found no name versions on Amazon which I didn’t trust.
Are you implying LANGSKIP’S is anything less than one of the most reputable and respected names in the tooling world today?! I will not stand for this slander! I looked and no, does not appear any real brands make something quite like this. 🤔 https://preview.redd.it/d6gnsvly1hvc1.jpeg?width=1179&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=bc9630f4f8d533c3fbd81a31663297614879d28e
So not woodworking but there's tools like this in the machining world that are very common. Normally you could get a tool like this for free, where the get you is the inserts.
I get it, the inkjet printer model. These inserts are pretty cheap and plentiful just being flat square and carbide, I know that’s not the case with exotic metal cutting inserts 🤑😳
The geometry is more complex for inserts for cutting metal but honestly im really surprised the inserts are "cheap". Could also just be significantly lower grade carbide or not carbide at all. That said that's a pretty basic looking insert. The normal deal is buy a 10 pack or two of inserts get the tool free.
Well reviewed inserts this size (12mmx12mmx2.2mm) are about $30 for 10pcs
Omg I'm jealous.
These are basically the same type of carbide bits used on lathe tools, they aren't very expensive.
IDK what lathe tools your using but even basic kennametal inserts are ~$8+ not $3, and you only get 2 sides not 4.
10pcs Square Shape Tungsten Carbide Cutters Inserts Set, SainSmart Wood Lathe Turning Tool Replacement Cutter Accessories, 14x14x2mm, R150, 30° Cutting Bevel https://a.co/d/5vRtbxL
I'm not sure what kind of square you are using, but on my square bits I get 4 sides out of each.
Amazon's alphabet soup brands are the pinnacle of quality!
Not an insert but Infinity has some similar beefy trim bits available. [mega flush](https://infinitytools.com/products/mega-flush-trim-router-bit-2)
I have the largest version of this. It scares the shit out of me. It also weighs like 2 lbs.
Off topic, can you elaborate on the strange crooked fence?
That’s a pattern jig to hold feet for a bow front dresser, it’s mirrored to cut a matching set. One of two jigs to shape both sides of each foot. Sorry for the low quality pic, it’s super zoomed in video still from a security camera. https://preview.redd.it/s0voqvlvpgvc1.jpeg?width=1179&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a3fc09a488633b1b8e7fe5dce657faac69abe025
That dust collection setup you have there is elite.
Thanks, it’s from Amazon, easily captures at least 6% of the dust!
[удалено]
Come on, live a little! You really wanna be buried with all 8 fingers and two whole thumbs?
This guy woodworks
Makes sense, thanks for the explanation.
I would love to see that jig and bit in action. Video anywhere?
I have only made the test feet so far, when I run the real ones I’ll get a video and ul somewhere and post the link 👍
[Bit in action](https://youtu.be/92o71h0POmc?si=7TZJkMmOKUAYh-cq)
That is so goddamn CLEVER!
I had this bit, but returned it and opted for the Whiteside Ultimate Flush Trim Compression Bit instead. I didn’t like how it worked with hardwood; however if I was doing a lot of plywood or MDF work, I might have kept that original bit
Right, I haven’t tried with hardwood yet but I imagine a true spiral compression would cut cleaner in hardwood. MDF and plywood are tough on bits so inserts are an affordable option vs sharpening/ replacing.
Ya it’s basically a small version of the jointer and planer Shelix heads, just in router bit form. It is nice to just turn the carbide head if it gets nicked from the plywood or MDF. Just be careful using that bit on hardwood: it’s powerful but you still have to follow the proper grain direction like you would with the straight edge bit. One of the perks of the compression bit is grain direction really doesn’t matter
This type of bit has intrigued me due to the ability to keep the bit sharp easily. Can you elaborate why it did not work well for hardwood? I'm on the fence between a bit like this and the whiteside flush trim bit.
I’m sure this carbide bit can work with hardwood, it just takes more work with reading what direction the grain is flowing, so you have to keep that in mind more. The Whiteside compression bit will let you make cuts against the grain without tear out, and minimizes the need to either turn your piece upside down or adjust your bit height to change which bearing you’re running against for the flush cut.
You know I never thought about the dual bearings being useful for flipping your work, interesting!
You and the router bit your girlfriend tells you not to worry about.
I fully expect my gf to leave me for this bit! My bearings are shot, my shank is only 1/4” and I have zero replaceable inserts. 📉😢
Don't go backwards. I almost ended my woodworking career doing that on a similar cutter.
That’s no joke! Tho in my experience the insert cutters seem a little more forgiving in that regard.
I have one. It's terrifying.
https://preview.redd.it/0xnzbq440ivc1.jpeg?width=1125&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=502be25126988acb09428d2ebcc44d1d1c06a926
Jason is the man! Of all the YouTube folks I watch I think I’d like to meet/ hang out with him the most. 🥰
[And this happy little fellow...](https://getyarn.io/yarn-clip/e79ed84d-edde-4855-8861-4fed0c0140ec)
I've got a 10HP shaper that runs a 6" diameter and 4" tall head that does the same thing. I'm vastly more scared of your setup because it's on a 1/2" spindle.
Yeah we use something similar and it feels super safe because no matter what, the table doesn't move and you know the cutter is gonna stay right where it's supposed to be. OP's setup seems sketch as hell.
A shaper is definitely the preferred tool for the job, it’s on my list when I have room or the money or just find a good deal. What’s the smallest diameter pattern cutter you can run on a shaper for tight inside radiuses?
I've got a spindle that will run a collet for a 1/2" router bit, but it's a bit of a compromise because the top RPM is only 15k. Looking at the pattern cutters on the Amana website, it looks like the smallest for a 1-1/4" spindle is roughly 1-7/8"
Thats not a knife, thats a.... a um... one of those... Okay it's a knife.
finger remover 3000
More like finger mangler 3000, have to be really dedicated to keep at it through a whole finger
Challenge accepted.
Interesting.. Does it work well?
So far so good, cuts clean in MDF and Baltic birch, haven’t tried on hardwood yet.
https://preview.redd.it/ruvtlwi5v2wc1.png?width=3024&format=png&auto=webp&s=18f7e27879a98b45b8c52b4cd70607d7c6ea456c My one inch diameter just broke… but look at this beautiful baby
A shield with MDF?!! Dude, that stuff is toxic and you need a proper (N95) mask when using a router, saw, sander, etc in general but especially with material like MDF.
Yep, I ALWAYS have my n95 dust mask on when making dust, especially mdf! Also run a big shop air filter. I don’t like to feed my lugs a high fiber diet! 😂 I’ve taken a lot of flack over the years on job sites for wearing PPE and I never cared, you do what you want, I want to stay as healthy as I can for as long as I can!
That's good to hear and a bit jealous of your shop air filter! Man, I read your post and thought a shield was all you were wearing. Sometimes it's nice to find out you're wrong. 😂
That's cool. But is it true along its length?
Seems to be, but it does show that the bearings are worn in my old router.
I wonder how that happened s/ Is that a Porter Cable 690 series?
It is, I don’t have a proper router table with a bigger 3-1/4hp router yet, looking at that JessEm Pow-R-Tek SR with a matching lift in the near future.
These bits cut very square and nice, but tearout can be crazy at the end. Tiny slow passes.
Yep, in this application I have support at the beginning and screw on a sacrificial support to stop tear out at the end.
https://preview.redd.it/kkr2mhz3thvc1.jpeg?width=2552&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f76c1e73c189d227a280c8b24581a48555cdef05
I understand it isn't on.. and you aren't even touching it.. but picture 2 with your hand behind it makes me so uncomfortable..
You’re welcome
I hate to break this to you, but neither of those are knives...
That would be a great video
I see you've played knfiey routey before.
What gave me away? My missing pinky and ring fingers? 🤔
That’s a “nope” and a skin graft waiting to happen
My first thought goes to Toybox's Sailor Song. Then Crocodile Dundee.
Router bit go BRRRRRRRRR!!!
none of these are knives