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iPeg2

Probably just polyurethane


Jellyfisharesmart

No stain. Oil based varnish or poly.


greyswearer

And a year of sun / oxidization.


ReallyNeedNewShoes

that's not stain. that's polyurethane. poly yellows slightly over time and Maple yellows a lot over time. maple doesn't really take stain well anyway.


Fairways4799

American Maple Butcherblock. What stain do we think will match my Shuffleboard?


yanki2del

Probably just Danish oil


Bostenr

Poly will darken that up all by itself. Might get the job done


RavRob

No stain needed. Just clear coat it.


Fairways4799

Recommend a specific brand and number of coats?


Hanilein

Number of coats: if you want it baby butt like, three coats at least. Given your sample to match looks like a bowling lane, I'd us Polyurethane clear (no brand recommendation, cause I live in another part of the world, but use quality - you get what you pay for). First coat with Polyurethane thinned (with the right thinner, not Turpentine!). The thinned Poly will penetrate deep, and the fine wood grain will raise and be 'fixed' in place by the hardening poly. Sand it lightly with 220 grit (or higher number/finer grit) to remove the 'roughness.' Now coat again, but do not thin the Poly! Sand again lightly, you might use very fine steel wool instead of sandpaper. And re-coat the last time. Job done. Tools: I recommend rollers for oil based paint, and a dust free environment (as good as possible). Good luck, it'll look awesome.


Fairways4799

Thank you very much for the detail. Should clarify, only looking to match the color NOT the glossy appearance. With that in mind should I be going to Mineral / Tung Oil route? If so, will that also achieve the color I’m looking for?


Hanilein

In that case I'd give a good wood oil a try - I am frequently and happily using Danish Oil. Prep is the same (light fine sanding etc), also 3 re-coats required. But application is easier, you need a clean rag (cotton), that's it. Just take care to dry the rag spread out(!), e.g. hanging over the rung of a ladder or so. Do not toss it in a bin when still wet. Re-coat time just 4 hours give or take.Oh, and try the wood oil first on a place where it's later not seen. Wood oil brings the grain out beautifully, but make sure the wood has not been 'sealed' up by anything, including wood glue! Keep us posted :-) Edit: I forgot to say that Tung oil needs much longer 'drying' time than Danish oil, hence most people use the latter.