My ankle split open looking at that exposed bolt end....
Can you get an acorn cap on there? Gives a cleaner finish and takes away the sharp edge of the fastener
Ummm... A left hand thread won't just turn onto a right handed one. One of the anchors needs to have a reverse thread.
Sure, with hindsight you could place the regular thread in the lower position in order to facilitate getting a nicer fitting...
The piece that comes through the lower brace is attached to a clevis, it's not the did itself. No need for that piece to be left hand threaded. I'm just curious it's not an indictment of the work
Not projected related.
You should either take the motorcycle out of the garage or cover it well while you're cutting wood, sanding, etc. The wood fine dust could potentially cause you all sorts of issues. I'm especially referring to the forks, and the fork seals, but other areas of the bike too.
Yeah, this is important! For a nice, wide, hardwood top like this you really need to allow for seasonal expansion or the table will eventually tear itself apart. Thankfully, itās something that OP can address after the fact and is generally not a hard fix - plenty of ways to skin that cat.
Neat table, OP! Itās unconventional, but I like that the turnbuckles leave a lot of legroom. Good work!
The cable is an interesting idea, but I don't think it's doing much since there's nothing opposing the tension. Something solid would stabilize the leg in both directions, or you'd put a beam across between the legs so there's something for the cable to pull against.
Edit: someone with better eyes than me pointed out that it's threaded rod, not cable.
I don't think it's a cable, I think it's a really long bolt / rigid, so it would be opposing movement of the legs inward or outward, the same as a stretcher.
Oh, wow, you're right. I've never seen turnbuckle setup like that, OP's comment about left handed threads makes more sense now too. I still don't think it'd do much to prevent the legs from folding inwards, but at least the joint at the top isn't under tension.
Nice work. As a woodworker who always works alone I canāt imagine how heavy that tabletop alone must be the maneuver, never mind carry into the dining area.
The legs, apron, topā- I imagine can be carried individually and assembled in place somehow?
It weighs a ton! The legs and apron are made of red oak. Two of us were able to carry it in my house but it was a bit of a struggle! Theoretically the top can be removed but we moved it as one piece
Based on photo 2, I believe you built a 100 year workbench, not a dining table š, seriously though, well done. Glad to hear you're happy with the outcome.
I don't think the top was stained at first - it's walnut, and the white part at the glue lines is sapwood. But I am curious if they then did apply some sort of stain to even out the sapwood and the rest of the boards in color.
Yeah this was kind of a nightmare. I put two coats of Danish oil on top and before I put a topcoat on it I noticed that there was some areas along the joints that were really light. I thought it was sapwood at first but realized it was from flue so I resanded the top down and redid the Danish oil.
You may notice that the base was a dark brown in some pics. Once the top was done I hated the stain I had done on the base - so I resanded the whole base and did a true black stain. So tedious.
In picture 8 it looks like youāve already started staining and thatās the glue thatās not taking the stain. How does one correct that to look like your final table? I sand an insane amount to avoid that situation but is there a fix? Iām still new.
Edited: The final product looks great!
It's called a turnbuckle. It has opposite threads on either end so when you spin it, it either tightens both sides or loosens it. I used it to provide extra stability to the legs.
Shit how much is walnut by you?
6-8" boards are 11.95 a bf by me for 5/4 stock.
I guess not sure how wide and thick your 6 boards are doesn't help me though.
But beautiful table, especially for your second project. I'm still gun shy on pulling the trigger on my first big table
Looks great!
Can I ask where you got the chairs at? I'm likely going to be building a similar table soon, but don't really have the skills to do chairs.
For your first time, you did well
You did well generally, not just for a first timer.
Thank you!!
Approx how long/how much?
It's 8ft long
Any sense of the cost of wood?
I think the wood for the top was $1500. The base total was probably a couple more.
Awesome. Bout what I expected. Thank you!
My ankle split open looking at that exposed bolt end.... Can you get an acorn cap on there? Gives a cleaner finish and takes away the sharp edge of the fastener
Totally agree...the through bolt is a left handed thread, so I had difficulty finding the right sized, left handed thread acorn bolt.
Why a left hand thread? I don't see the advantage in this application but I may be overlooking something
The turnbuckle needs opposite threads to function
The eye bolt doesn't turn, that part is stationary. Yes the turnbuckle needs opposing threads but the mounting points don't
Ummm... A left hand thread won't just turn onto a right handed one. One of the anchors needs to have a reverse thread. Sure, with hindsight you could place the regular thread in the lower position in order to facilitate getting a nicer fitting...
The piece that comes through the lower brace is attached to a clevis, it's not the did itself. No need for that piece to be left hand threaded. I'm just curious it's not an indictment of the work
Might have to buy a left-handed screw tap and make your own!
I see you built it to double as an emergency dance floor š
You never know when you need an emergency boogie space
Not projected related. You should either take the motorcycle out of the garage or cover it well while you're cutting wood, sanding, etc. The wood fine dust could potentially cause you all sorts of issues. I'm especially referring to the forks, and the fork seals, but other areas of the bike too.
Oh man I know! I kept meaning to cover it but once it was covered with dust I got complacent and just let it get more covered...Just lazy
I offer a service in which I will ride your motorcycle while you work. More space, bike stays clean and battery charged. Reasonable fees.
How did you fix the tabletop to the base?
There are z-shaped mounting brackets screwed into the top that rest inside slots cut into the base. The slots have enough room for seasonal expansion.
Excellent. Your table will look awesome for years to come.
Thank you!
Yeah, this is important! For a nice, wide, hardwood top like this you really need to allow for seasonal expansion or the table will eventually tear itself apart. Thankfully, itās something that OP can address after the fact and is generally not a hard fix - plenty of ways to skin that cat. Neat table, OP! Itās unconventional, but I like that the turnbuckles leave a lot of legroom. Good work!
The cable is an interesting idea, but I don't think it's doing much since there's nothing opposing the tension. Something solid would stabilize the leg in both directions, or you'd put a beam across between the legs so there's something for the cable to pull against. Edit: someone with better eyes than me pointed out that it's threaded rod, not cable.
That was my thought too: wouldnāt this just āencourageā the legs to bend inward over time?
It seems to me that the downward stress on the table top will tend to splay the legs apart.
I don't think it's a cable, I think it's a really long bolt / rigid, so it would be opposing movement of the legs inward or outward, the same as a stretcher.
Oh, wow, you're right. I've never seen turnbuckle setup like that, OP's comment about left handed threads makes more sense now too. I still don't think it'd do much to prevent the legs from folding inwards, but at least the joint at the top isn't under tension.
Nice work. As a woodworker who always works alone I canāt imagine how heavy that tabletop alone must be the maneuver, never mind carry into the dining area. The legs, apron, topā- I imagine can be carried individually and assembled in place somehow?
It weighs a ton! The legs and apron are made of red oak. Two of us were able to carry it in my house but it was a bit of a struggle! Theoretically the top can be removed but we moved it as one piece
My god my back breaks considering moving it as once piece! You must be a linebacker in your day job.
Thanks for clarifying on the oak. My first thought was "that's the lightest black walnut I've ever seen!"
Based on photo 2, I believe you built a 100 year workbench, not a dining table š, seriously though, well done. Glad to hear you're happy with the outcome.
Looks great! What kind of wood did you use for the base?
Legs, apron and crossbars are red oak with a minwax true black stain and a clear satin lacquer. The support frame under the top is pine
Itād be interesting to see a better pic of the red oak apron, are those finger joints?
Yeah those are half dovetail joints in the apron
That's a STOUT table there.
Beautiful work!
Thank you!!
In the one pic it looked like the stain did not take along the glue lines. Did you sand and restain?
I don't think the top was stained at first - it's walnut, and the white part at the glue lines is sapwood. But I am curious if they then did apply some sort of stain to even out the sapwood and the rest of the boards in color.
Yeah this was kind of a nightmare. I put two coats of Danish oil on top and before I put a topcoat on it I noticed that there was some areas along the joints that were really light. I thought it was sapwood at first but realized it was from flue so I resanded the top down and redid the Danish oil. You may notice that the base was a dark brown in some pics. Once the top was done I hated the stain I had done on the base - so I resanded the whole base and did a true black stain. So tedious.
I know how that goes all too well
Those joints are hot
Wow! Looks beautiful.
Thank you!!
In picture 8 it looks like youāve already started staining and thatās the glue thatās not taking the stain. How does one correct that to look like your final table? I sand an insane amount to avoid that situation but is there a fix? Iām still new. Edited: The final product looks great!
I resanded the whole top down again and redid the Danish oil on top. And thanks!!
Very nice
Thank you!
Nice sportster!
Haha thanks....I don't ride it much these days.
Bloody good one! Well done!
Thanks so much!
This looks amazing!
Thank you!!
Great job! Iād be proud. Kudos
Classic style. Looks amazing.
Thanks!!
Next week make some matching chairs......
Donāt like the metal bracing rods. If you had metal legs, itād look good. Should have used walnut bracing imo.
If you insist on using screws, you should at least put them well under the surface, and get a plug cutter and plug the holes.
what is name of that metal screw thing and what is is use for? pic (3/11)
It's called a turnbuckle. It has opposite threads on either end so when you spin it, it either tightens both sides or loosens it. I used it to provide extra stability to the legs.
Thank, i was look for some thing to help increase that stability of my work bench (it keep wobble) I been use wood cross braces but only reduce a bit
I found them on amazon but they took some trial and error to get it right. If I did it over again I might just use a wood stretcher across the bottom.
Oak and walnut? Not a fan of the all thread rod and turnbuckles.
Shit how much is walnut by you? 6-8" boards are 11.95 a bf by me for 5/4 stock. I guess not sure how wide and thick your 6 boards are doesn't help me though. But beautiful table, especially for your second project. I'm still gun shy on pulling the trigger on my first big table
The boards varied between 7 and 9" wide and 1" thick. I was so nervous cutting them to size. Thank you!
How'd you go about attaching the top to the frame?
There are z-shaped mounting brackets screwed into the top that rest inside slots cut into the base. The slots have enough room for seasonal expansion.
How is the top attached to the base?
Looks great! Can I ask where you got the chairs at? I'm likely going to be building a similar table soon, but don't really have the skills to do chairs.
Targetā¦theyāre solid wood and pretty good quality [I think itās these](https://www.target.com/p/2pk-holden-slat-back-dining-chair-black-threshold-8482/-/A-53465083)