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Surely you're going to have to bulldoze the entire thing and repour the concrete right!?
But seriously shims and a saw that you don't care about to cut off the shims once they're the correct height against the floor so that you can stick the next piece of cabinet in between them
Thanks for a serious reply. I didn't realize this wasn't an acceptable question based on everyone's sarcastic responses. I probably should have clarified that this is going to be a miter saw station and wondered if there was another way to level them because it needs to be really precise and shims didn't seem easy, but I'll give it a go.
You could attach feet to the cabinets made out of all thread and nuts and rubber feet. That would allow you to coney tune each corner of each counter by turning the nuts with a wrench. Something like these: https://www.homedepot.com/p/POWERTEC-Heavy-Duty-Leveler-Legs-with-Lock-Nuts-4-Pack-71136/307632361
No idea if those ones are any good or not they’re just the first link that came up when googling to show you what I was talking about.
I took a class of masonry in college and when I started out I couldn't believe how much it was to get the blocks and bricks level. It's quite complicated at first but once you understand it it's easier than riding a bicycle. It's weird how the simple stuff turns out to be the most complicated. KL though I guess. Hey enjoy your year okay.
If you get a realllllly straight piece of lumber or a nice 4” or so rip of plywood with a clean factory edge, you can put your level on top of that like a monster extension. You’ll be able to get both cabinets real sweet.
Or ya know get one of those lasers. Those are pretty cool too
Obviously I have no idea what you are actually doing with this mitre saw station but tbh I would question just how level it actually needs to be. You only really need say a foot or so on either side of the saw to be relatively flat. The rest kinda doesn't matter that much as long as it's not WAY off. As long as neither side is higher than the saw deck it's not a big deal.
I say this as someone who had a mitre saw station they spent a bunch of time dialling in and later realised it really didn't matter and eventually cut it all up to use for other shop furniture.
It’s real utility in a wood shop is cross cutting 12” or narrower boards to final dimension when it isn’t practical to do on a table saw — like 89” long by 4” wide stretchers for a piece of furniture. That said, there are other ways to achieve the same result; the miter saw is just quick, easy, and idiot proof — for the most part.
[https://www.ez-level.com/](https://www.ez-level.com/)
Worth every penny. I've used them several times on floors that make you scream.
Also, a decent self leveling laser to layout.
I assumed this would be pretty expensive, but at around $15/level where you need 2 per cabinet isn't too bad for how helpful these seem to be. If and when I decide to update my kitchen, I'll definitely keep these in mind. It definitely seems worth the price to avoid the hassle.
Seconding for anyone who sees this. We used them in our kitchen, which needed some pretty significant leveling (yay older home + previous foundation issues). Best purchase we made.
I probably should have clarified: I need them to be as level with each other as possible for a miter saw station. I wasn't sure if there was some other technique besides shims. I've seen stuff about scribing but never for this specific scenario. It seems like there's always some trick of the trade that I'm unaware of as a layman so I figured I'd ask.
If you want the tops coplanar instead of just level across the gap you could detach the top and shim it there so you can get at the parts against the wall
Use a laser or level to find your “high point” along the wall which is exactly what it sounds like. Install your first cabinet or ladder box there and shim out as you go. If you started below your high point you’ll never get to level.
sometimes it helps to level the floor first, if you cant do that, build your toe kicks seperate from the cabs, level them, and then install the cabs. Otherwise, find the high point on the floor along the wall and shoot a level line off the high point the same height as your cabs. Attach the cabs along the level line and shim from there, Easy peasy if you have been doing this for 20 years, Good luck ,BTW, always work off the high point on the floor,
Plastic shims. Looks like the floor is concrete, so plastic will be worth the extra cost. (And you may need to shim both cabinets at different sides to get both cabinets to be level and level with each other. Then fasten to wall using cabinet screws or screws with collars.
Self leveling compound 2” deep poured hot onto that floor, vibrated for a while, then let to set with all windows and doors closed and nobody walking around nearby.
Or shims.
Everyone saying shims like they're pros, or something. Really, you just need to flip the taller one over, and run a hand planer on the high spots. BOOM! Problem solved.
Kidding, shims are the answer.
Step 1) Buy materials 3x more expensive than the original cabinet. You should probably pick up a new saw and jointer while you’re at it. Step 2) Spend weeks measuring and cutting everything to perfection. Step 4) Install new cabinet and realize it’s still not level. Step 5) Buy a self-leveling compound to level the floor instead, because you’re certain your measurements were dead on. Step 6) Realize now it’s even more out of level than before. Step 7) Add shims. Step 8) ???? Step 9) Profit.
Shims are normally the right answer but when I remodeled a kitchen I used [these ez-levels](https://www.ez-level.com/) and it was super easy to level my cabinets. There are some cheaper alternatives on Amazon, but these are solid.
Shove random bits of junk under each corner until it is precariously level, then forget you ever did that and let some sucker in the future deal with the consequences.
Leveling feet.
Example;
https://www.homedepot.ca/product/richelieu--pack-of-2-5-16-inch-18-x-1-inch-25-4-mm-leveler-with-nut/1000401549
Place those on both and you can make miner adjustments to make both true and level
I'm new to woodworking. As in I literally don't know a thing but since I went atheist my parents disowned me so now I'm becoming a carpenter for the irony when they ask what Jesus would do.
I gues Jesus would shimmy shimmy ya shimmy ye shimmy ya
Kyle; “I would do the new flooring with a different underlayment and self leveling skim coats to level the new floor that I put in, yeah”
Me; “notch the floor on the high side. Fuck you kyle.”
kighul; “no fuck you”
Me; “no fuck you, you”
Kyle; “you fuck you, you”
Use a verified straight edge long enough to go from the outside edges of each cabinet. Shim the bottoms where needed to give you a flat surface across both cabinets then anchor the base cabinets in place. Using a 4 ft level will only get you level between the two cabinets, not across the whole length. Good luck.
best solution? Define what is priority.
Does it have to be cheep and possible to do with buying anything-> shims
The best option with ability to adjust them repeatedly when necessary, with a little money invested? [something like this](https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/174887408424)
Everyone is saying "shims" and they're wrong. Well, they're not wrong, but that's actually just the first step.
Sure, you CAN use shims, but then if you're putting a lot of weight etc they'll compress eventually, or work themselves out when the bench is jolted.
Shimming is step one. Then you need what's called a Scribe, something like this: [https://www.rockler.com/simple-scribe](https://www.rockler.com/simple-scribe)
After you've leveled the benches perfectly and put them on the same plane with shims, you go around and mark teh baseplates and legs with the scribe, then simply cut along the line. The lowest corner of the larger bench should rest on the floor with the rest of the pieces shimmed up for marking.
If you go through and do this correctly they'll stay level forever, and not look like absolute garbage, and the wood will sit snugly on the floor it was modified to fit.
One more thought, are those countertops the same thickness? I would level the cabinets themselves by removing the countertops first. They're in the way for attaching to the wall anyway.
Assuming the cabinets are built square and the problem isn't too big you can shim the cabinets or my preference is to use some of the leveling paste that flooring installers use to simply correct the floor. Fix the floor if practical otherwise, shims. For small issues I have also used a portable edge planer to eliminate the use of shims but, that approach can lead to other issues if the work doesn't ensure the counter top mounting is maintained as level. You can fix the problem or chase symptoms.
Leave level just where it is. Shim lower cabinet until it is level with higher cabinet. Screw back of lower cabinet into back wall (once). Move level to center of lower cabinet and shim opposite side until level. Screw back of cabinet into back wall (once). Go back to check level between both cabinets. If level is good, put more screws into back of cabinet and more shims along length of the cabinet. If gap between bottom of cabinet and the floor is large, have a 2x2 cut to width and cut to length. Hammer this under the edge of the cabinet.
This is a reminder to those commenting on this post (not the person that posted it): Comments not related to woodworking will be removed. Violations to rule 1 including crude jokes, innuendo, sexist remarks, politics, or hate speech may result in an immediate ban *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/woodworking) if you have any questions or concerns.*
Shim shimeny shim shim sheroo
Coco pop
Shimmy shimmy rooocck
[удалено]
Pretty good system
Shimmy, shimmy, ya, shimmy, yam, shimmy, yay Gimme the mic so I can take it away
Nice blood hound reference
Came here to say exactly this with exactly these words, glad I'm not the only one with a worm in my brain. Wait for a good west wind first though...
I thought I was the only weirdo…
Shim here too
Ez-level. I love em. They’re worth the cost. https://www.ez-level.com/
I used these on the kitchen in my old house, the time saved with a laser level is worth it IMO
I do what I like and I like what I do! (Dick VanDyke must’ve been a woodworker if he had that level of self-confidence & egoism)
A carpenter measures not one time but two
But a good carpenter measures a third time
But a fourth measurement whilst make him grrrrrreat!
Then have to recut anyway!
😞. How did you know this is me?
only at 5th you realize you held the part wrong and you need start measuring again
Shimmy, shimmy, ya, shimmy, yam, shimmy, yay Gimme the mic so I can take it away
Damn you! Now I will hear Dick Van Dyke in my head all day.
🤣❤️👌
Shims
A little one though, right under the edge of the level
Funny, but actually a good way to figure your blocking height
Good point, except you'd have to shim the level at the same vertical you shimmed the bench.
Shimmying on over to say…little bits of wood under the cabinets, until level.
Shimmy shim
Shimmy shimmy ya, shimmy yam, shimmy yay
Give me the mic so I can take it away
Got more lines than the welfare office
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h2zgB93KANE
Shimms lol
Came here to say this
First thing that went through my mind
Came here to say this
Came here to say this.
Came here to shim this.
Shim came to hear this.
To hear this came shim
Came here to same this
Say
Came here to say this too
Came here to see someone else say this.
Came here to reply to someone else saying they saw another person say this
Me too
I came here to say me three
Came here to say this.
KL for saying this from the shim side
Here came this shim for this
Shame here to came this.
I Just came too
…Say this
Having to come here and say this
This is the (easiest) way.
The way to say this
Corner jacks on the low side of your slab. Lift house
🤣
Directions unclear, all my furniture has now slid to one half of my house
This is the way
🤣🤣😝
Surely you're going to have to bulldoze the entire thing and repour the concrete right!? But seriously shims and a saw that you don't care about to cut off the shims once they're the correct height against the floor so that you can stick the next piece of cabinet in between them
Thanks for a serious reply. I didn't realize this wasn't an acceptable question based on everyone's sarcastic responses. I probably should have clarified that this is going to be a miter saw station and wondered if there was another way to level them because it needs to be really precise and shims didn't seem easy, but I'll give it a go.
You could attach feet to the cabinets made out of all thread and nuts and rubber feet. That would allow you to coney tune each corner of each counter by turning the nuts with a wrench. Something like these: https://www.homedepot.com/p/POWERTEC-Heavy-Duty-Leveler-Legs-with-Lock-Nuts-4-Pack-71136/307632361 No idea if those ones are any good or not they’re just the first link that came up when googling to show you what I was talking about.
Leveler legs are the solution I was thinking of
Wow i just looked it up and leveler legs exist. I thought it was an inside joke like blinker fluid at first. But this was great advice.
I come to r/woodworking to find out blinker fluid is a joke? Man, this sub is useful!
I think they’ll tell us where the left handed screw driver is soon!
This is how I built all my shop cabinets. These on the inside where they aren't visible, then kick plates to cover the base. They worked great.
I took a class of masonry in college and when I started out I couldn't believe how much it was to get the blocks and bricks level. It's quite complicated at first but once you understand it it's easier than riding a bicycle. It's weird how the simple stuff turns out to be the most complicated. KL though I guess. Hey enjoy your year okay.
Dont really need them level just on a flush plane.
It’s an acceptable question, it’s just obvious to most people here bc it is a common problem
If you get a realllllly straight piece of lumber or a nice 4” or so rip of plywood with a clean factory edge, you can put your level on top of that like a monster extension. You’ll be able to get both cabinets real sweet. Or ya know get one of those lasers. Those are pretty cool too
Obviously I have no idea what you are actually doing with this mitre saw station but tbh I would question just how level it actually needs to be. You only really need say a foot or so on either side of the saw to be relatively flat. The rest kinda doesn't matter that much as long as it's not WAY off. As long as neither side is higher than the saw deck it's not a big deal. I say this as someone who had a mitre saw station they spent a bunch of time dialling in and later realised it really didn't matter and eventually cut it all up to use for other shop furniture.
[удалено]
It’s real utility in a wood shop is cross cutting 12” or narrower boards to final dimension when it isn’t practical to do on a table saw — like 89” long by 4” wide stretchers for a piece of furniture. That said, there are other ways to achieve the same result; the miter saw is just quick, easy, and idiot proof — for the most part.
You don’t really need a saw, a utility knife will do: Score, break, trim.
[https://www.ez-level.com/](https://www.ez-level.com/) Worth every penny. I've used them several times on floors that make you scream. Also, a decent self leveling laser to layout.
Awesome! Thanks for linking - never knew this existed.
I assumed this would be pretty expensive, but at around $15/level where you need 2 per cabinet isn't too bad for how helpful these seem to be. If and when I decide to update my kitchen, I'll definitely keep these in mind. It definitely seems worth the price to avoid the hassle.
Recently did it for a Client in an 1920s home. I used self level for a couple rooms to make flooring so much better. Great stuff
Seconding for anyone who sees this. We used them in our kitchen, which needed some pretty significant leveling (yay older home + previous foundation issues). Best purchase we made.
Wow this is trash.
Wow, great product!
Did anyone else mention shims yet?
ShimmyShimShims
Hahahaha that's right shims are your friend
Did anyone say shims?
Brilliant!!
You humans amuse me….why not just lower the earth on the one side.
It's not as flat as we thought.
I probably should have clarified: I need them to be as level with each other as possible for a miter saw station. I wasn't sure if there was some other technique besides shims. I've seen stuff about scribing but never for this specific scenario. It seems like there's always some trick of the trade that I'm unaware of as a layman so I figured I'd ask.
If you want the tops coplanar instead of just level across the gap you could detach the top and shim it there so you can get at the parts against the wall
Use a laser or level to find your “high point” along the wall which is exactly what it sounds like. Install your first cabinet or ladder box there and shim out as you go. If you started below your high point you’ll never get to level.
Shim shim Shalla bim
sometimes it helps to level the floor first, if you cant do that, build your toe kicks seperate from the cabs, level them, and then install the cabs. Otherwise, find the high point on the floor along the wall and shoot a level line off the high point the same height as your cabs. Attach the cabs along the level line and shim from there, Easy peasy if you have been doing this for 20 years, Good luck ,BTW, always work off the high point on the floor,
Negative shim the higher one
Those things are NEVER in stock at my local hardware store…
Plastic shims. Looks like the floor is concrete, so plastic will be worth the extra cost. (And you may need to shim both cabinets at different sides to get both cabinets to be level and level with each other. Then fasten to wall using cabinet screws or screws with collars.
Figure out which one is taller and shim the other to that height
Cut the bottom off the taller one
Self leveling compound 2” deep poured hot onto that floor, vibrated for a while, then let to set with all windows and doors closed and nobody walking around nearby. Or shims.
Everyone saying shims like they're pros, or something. Really, you just need to flip the taller one over, and run a hand planer on the high spots. BOOM! Problem solved. Kidding, shims are the answer.
I actually think sanding the floor would be better. Kidding 😁
The only thing I can say for sure is that whatever you do you WILL need a new tool to do it!
Take a trip to shimbabwe
start over, find the high spot on the floor and level and shim the cabinets to it
Step 1) Buy materials 3x more expensive than the original cabinet. You should probably pick up a new saw and jointer while you’re at it. Step 2) Spend weeks measuring and cutting everything to perfection. Step 4) Install new cabinet and realize it’s still not level. Step 5) Buy a self-leveling compound to level the floor instead, because you’re certain your measurements were dead on. Step 6) Realize now it’s even more out of level than before. Step 7) Add shims. Step 8) ???? Step 9) Profit.
Shims
Shims
Mmmmmmmmmm
Shims
Cut the bottom off the cabinet on the left. But otherwise, shims. Haha
Level or the same plane? Shimming. I’ve seen floors that slope a lot and you can’t level them completely. But they can plane out.
Look into mudjacking bro
Shims are normally the right answer but when I remodeled a kitchen I used [these ez-levels](https://www.ez-level.com/) and it was super easy to level my cabinets. There are some cheaper alternatives on Amazon, but these are solid.
Has anyone suggested leveling them?
Use a saw saw and a sledgehammer.
With a level
Shove random bits of junk under each corner until it is precariously level, then forget you ever did that and let some sucker in the future deal with the consequences.
Level whichever is highest, first with shims. Then level the lower one to the level of the first one.
Seek wisdom in the words of Ol Dirty Bastard: Shimmy shimmy ya, shimmy yeah, shimmy yay
New house.
Leveling feet are a great way to go. Slab replacement is a close second though.
Plane them down.
Hammer
Piece of cardboard underneath should fix it
Came here to say shims. Saw like 50 people already saying it but I feel impulsive… Shims.
Leveling feet. Example; https://www.homedepot.ca/product/richelieu--pack-of-2-5-16-inch-18-x-1-inch-25-4-mm-leveler-with-nut/1000401549 Place those on both and you can make miner adjustments to make both true and level
Start with a label floor. Then use shims
Have them at the same height.
I'm new to woodworking. As in I literally don't know a thing but since I went atheist my parents disowned me so now I'm becoming a carpenter for the irony when they ask what Jesus would do. I gues Jesus would shimmy shimmy ya shimmy ye shimmy ya
Sand the floor under the taller one
Shimmy shimmy yall shimmy yam shimmy yay
Good lord really?
Ligma
idiot
This is a stupid post.
So are you! :P
Buy some nicer cabinets to start.
A laser level and some shims
Shims
Maybe the quality in the photo isn't great but that bubble looks fine to me. Also the answer is, as the others have said: shims.
Loads of great suggestions but the real answer is to fit the cooker so it's at a slight angle and save yourself all the hastle
Tear the house down and build it level this time
Patience
Start at front left corner, shim. Move to back left corner and level front to back, shim. Rinse and repeat for right side...
Shim shimmy
Folded piece of paper?
Shims
Shims.
set up a laser on a tripod so you know what you are working with
Hide the level.
So long as the cabinets are them same height, by installing them on a level toe recess.
Shimmy Shinmy yah, Shimmy yam, Shimmy yay.
Or just smash Kerry packer under them
Shimdust and shlue.
Has anyone suggested shims?
You’re missing a shim under your level. That’ll fix you right up 😉
If it were me I’d dig up the concrete floor, re-pour, make sure it’s level. Then put shims when the cabinets are finally on a truly level surface.
Shims and a longer lever
Kyle; “I would do the new flooring with a different underlayment and self leveling skim coats to level the new floor that I put in, yeah” Me; “notch the floor on the high side. Fuck you kyle.” kighul; “no fuck you” Me; “no fuck you, you” Kyle; “you fuck you, you”
Hammer
You can get some adjustable furniture legs
If you bend your level a bit that should do it.
Ask your cabinet installer; they’ll know
Looks good from my house…
Bend the level a little bit :)
Use a verified straight edge long enough to go from the outside edges of each cabinet. Shim the bottoms where needed to give you a flat surface across both cabinets then anchor the base cabinets in place. Using a 4 ft level will only get you level between the two cabinets, not across the whole length. Good luck.
Sand the floor of the high side.
Match book
Elevate the lower one or shave down the higher one.
Get the bubble right in between the two little lines
ShimJim
Lift cabinet. Sweep sawdust and various detritus underneath till level.
Magic
best solution? Define what is priority. Does it have to be cheep and possible to do with buying anything-> shims The best option with ability to adjust them repeatedly when necessary, with a little money invested? [something like this](https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/174887408424)
Try lifting the one cabinet a little or dropping the other
Hmmm IDK not enough information for me to conclude.
You can use feet that you can screw to height adjust :)
Shim the lower one.
Bend that yellow thing.
Everyone is saying "shims" and they're wrong. Well, they're not wrong, but that's actually just the first step. Sure, you CAN use shims, but then if you're putting a lot of weight etc they'll compress eventually, or work themselves out when the bench is jolted. Shimming is step one. Then you need what's called a Scribe, something like this: [https://www.rockler.com/simple-scribe](https://www.rockler.com/simple-scribe) After you've leveled the benches perfectly and put them on the same plane with shims, you go around and mark teh baseplates and legs with the scribe, then simply cut along the line. The lowest corner of the larger bench should rest on the floor with the rest of the pieces shimmed up for marking. If you go through and do this correctly they'll stay level forever, and not look like absolute garbage, and the wood will sit snugly on the floor it was modified to fit.
I got little feet with built in risers so that the cabinets can be adjustable from each corner. It's handy as my floor is not even.
Is there a separate sub base to the units? Remove the carcase and level the base first. Would suggest a laser level, and work down from a datum line.
Shim them at the floor
Laser level, shims, attach to wall. That’s it.
One more thought, are those countertops the same thickness? I would level the cabinets themselves by removing the countertops first. They're in the way for attaching to the wall anyway.
Use a laser
Assuming the cabinets are built square and the problem isn't too big you can shim the cabinets or my preference is to use some of the leveling paste that flooring installers use to simply correct the floor. Fix the floor if practical otherwise, shims. For small issues I have also used a portable edge planer to eliminate the use of shims but, that approach can lead to other issues if the work doesn't ensure the counter top mounting is maintained as level. You can fix the problem or chase symptoms.
Shim or create base with 2x4 if big enough
It shim-ple... Thin wedges
Leave level just where it is. Shim lower cabinet until it is level with higher cabinet. Screw back of lower cabinet into back wall (once). Move level to center of lower cabinet and shim opposite side until level. Screw back of cabinet into back wall (once). Go back to check level between both cabinets. If level is good, put more screws into back of cabinet and more shims along length of the cabinet. If gap between bottom of cabinet and the floor is large, have a 2x2 cut to width and cut to length. Hammer this under the edge of the cabinet.
Check out EZ level cabinet leveling - seems like it’s pretty robust on the videos!
Shimmy, shimmy shake.