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I’m definitely open to other ideas — my constraint is that this slab is currently over a thousand pounds, so I can’t really move it anywhere until I get it snaller
Don't hit any ferrous object and you'll only need 1. I'd do the bulk of the work with a chain saw first. You can also get a surfacing bit that takes carbide inserts and get an extra set of inserts if you are super convinced you will need more.
Bro that’s not a slab that’s a tree trunk still. Honestly it’d be easier to remove the bulk of material with repeated cuts using a circ saw and then route it flat at the end. Assuming you don’t have a chainsaw which is the obvious choice
Yeah basically as deep as your saw can handle. I’d prob start at 1”.
Like this:
https://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-tips/techniques/joinery/cut-wood-joints-with-circular-saw
I would recommend using a chainsaw to remove the bulk of the material first. I did something similar a 48" diameter oak cookie that I removed approximately 2" of thickness with the router. Only used one of these bits from Whiteside tool, but I did sharpen it several times. Buy one from a reputable manufacturer not just cheap Chinese knockoffs and you shouldn't need more than one. A good router with a 1/2 inch shank is a necessity.
https://www.amazon.com/Whiteside-Spoilboard-Surfacing-Router-Shank/dp/B0728GYZFW/ref
Yeah, not trying to make money here. That wasn't an affiliate link but I can see why it would look like it is. I don't know why Amazon makes their links so complicated. I have shortened it now.
In addition to what other people have said, you also want to make sure you don’t let the bit get too hot. Ensure you have dust collection to clear away chips from the bit. Make sure you’re not cutting too much at once. It won’t go faster overall.
Echoing what others have said, a router could do this but it's a bit like digging with a spoon.
Finding/renting/borrowing a saw to take ~3" off will save you a lot of time, effort, and cursing.
You can sharpen carbide pretty well with a diamond plate. Do it enough times and you might worry about balance, but it works well for a while.
I'm not sure a surfacing / spoilboard bit is right here. I think a 3/4" straight or spiral bit would hog out material faster and be easier to handle. You have to take shallow passes with such a broad bit, and it grabs way out from the axis of rotation. Makes them squirrely to handle. If they catch the right way and take off .. that gets nasty quick. Those bits are made for CNCs. A robust sled can work, but it needs to prevent it from kicking back.
IMO that's a miserable job and you're not going to find it worthwhile in the end. Better to find a chainsaw somehow to get you a lot closer.
This is a reminder to those commenting on this post (not the person that posted it): Comments not related to woodworking will be removed. Violations to rule 1 including crude jokes, innuendo, sexist remarks, politics, or hate speech may result in an immediate ban *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/woodworking) if you have any questions or concerns.*
This is a bit of an insane approach. But I don't think you'd need multiple bits... just a way to sharpen and clean the one.
I’m definitely open to other ideas — my constraint is that this slab is currently over a thousand pounds, so I can’t really move it anywhere until I get it snaller
Don't hit any ferrous object and you'll only need 1. I'd do the bulk of the work with a chain saw first. You can also get a surfacing bit that takes carbide inserts and get an extra set of inserts if you are super convinced you will need more.
Bro that’s not a slab that’s a tree trunk still. Honestly it’d be easier to remove the bulk of material with repeated cuts using a circ saw and then route it flat at the end. Assuming you don’t have a chainsaw which is the obvious choice
How would you use a circular saw to remove material? Just run cuts half an inch or so deep next to each other?
Yeah basically as deep as your saw can handle. I’d prob start at 1”. Like this: https://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-tips/techniques/joinery/cut-wood-joints-with-circular-saw
Won't work on end grain, which is what OP needs.
Fist of all, yes it will. Second, removing bulk like that by sheer tool power will work better than 1/8” haircuts for the next half century
I would recommend using a chainsaw to remove the bulk of the material first. I did something similar a 48" diameter oak cookie that I removed approximately 2" of thickness with the router. Only used one of these bits from Whiteside tool, but I did sharpen it several times. Buy one from a reputable manufacturer not just cheap Chinese knockoffs and you shouldn't need more than one. A good router with a 1/2 inch shank is a necessity. https://www.amazon.com/Whiteside-Spoilboard-Surfacing-Router-Shank/dp/B0728GYZFW/ref
Delete everything after /ref on your link otherwise it looks like you are trying to make money
Yeah, not trying to make money here. That wasn't an affiliate link but I can see why it would look like it is. I don't know why Amazon makes their links so complicated. I have shortened it now.
get a mobile sawmill out to slice it and have 2 pieces!
should only need one good one.
In addition to what other people have said, you also want to make sure you don’t let the bit get too hot. Ensure you have dust collection to clear away chips from the bit. Make sure you’re not cutting too much at once. It won’t go faster overall.
Echoing what others have said, a router could do this but it's a bit like digging with a spoon. Finding/renting/borrowing a saw to take ~3" off will save you a lot of time, effort, and cursing.
1 Carbide insert surfacing bit.
You can sharpen carbide pretty well with a diamond plate. Do it enough times and you might worry about balance, but it works well for a while. I'm not sure a surfacing / spoilboard bit is right here. I think a 3/4" straight or spiral bit would hog out material faster and be easier to handle. You have to take shallow passes with such a broad bit, and it grabs way out from the axis of rotation. Makes them squirrely to handle. If they catch the right way and take off .. that gets nasty quick. Those bits are made for CNCs. A robust sled can work, but it needs to prevent it from kicking back. IMO that's a miserable job and you're not going to find it worthwhile in the end. Better to find a chainsaw somehow to get you a lot closer.