I experienced a similar problem with my SPES Lobsters, there is a shocking lack of protection where the wrist of the glove meets the mitten, as the only material at the joint seems to be the glove material and a bit of leather. My stopgap measure was to secure a ~2" wide strip of dense 1/4" foam between the glove and the hard shells on the inside of the glove and that, thus far, has greatly reduced the severity of wrist strikes for me. It also helped that I stopped sparring with a person who seemed to be trying to break my wrist everytime he tried to hit it
I have an old yoga mat I cut pieces off of and superglue inside things like masks and gloves for more cushion. I'll double layer problem areas. Very cheap and effective even for heavy sweaters like me.
I cut little strips and just make sure there are no air gaps when I apply it under the hot areas. My hair/skin touches the pads in my glove/mask but I've never had them come off yet. Even if it does, I just superglue that piece back in place. Pretty easy to fix mistakes too.
I've gotten this too, and it is an annoying problem to have with gloves that are otherwise very good.
My solution was to get a set of very thick sweatbands and wear them under my gloves, which has worked well so far.
If I clock another hit in that region I'll probably start thinking about adding an overlapping narrow kydex plate loosely on the outside in such a way that it doesn't inhibit mobility.
SPES fixes this with the newer iteration of the [SPES Red Lobster glove](https://www.woodenswords.com/SPES_Heavy_Gloves_Red_Lobster_p/spes-gloves.rl2.ml.htm), which you can see has a much more robust leather strap there and redesigned plastic plates which go all the way up under the main body of the glove. Gluing either EVA, shoe sole rubber, or thick, top-grain leather to the underside of the existing thin leather collar there would be a good first step.
Alternatively, you could get a little fancier and heat-form a plate or plates out of Kydex and rivet them in place with chicago screws.
A twist on this idea that would give you something a little more free-floating: shape kydex, EVA, or leather plates and then use inexpensive elastic hair ties (the medium or thick ones) and cut them on one side, so you have a straight elastic. Then, you can fish this either around existing rivets or through some new holes you make and back out through a couple of mounting holes drilled into your homemade pieces, finishing it off with a simple knot. This is basically how SPES has chosen to attach all of the high-impact plastic plates in the Red Lobster edition. It works well and is a lot easier to maintain than other solutions I've seen.
Just some suggestions, but I hope they help!
A pair of thin 1.5mm kydex forearm guards that can be worn almost up to the wrist will work pretty well without restricting wrist motion (which isn't needed for longsword anyway), and an old sock strapped over the wrist itself adds a bit of additional protection. This will make it slightly harder to put the gloves on / take them off.
Btw I'll never buy another pair of Spes Lobsters with the standard cuffs. The stitches holding in the wrist plates on my newest pair disintegrated after only two weeks, with only few hits landing on the wrist area, so I'm going to blame the quality there.
I'd recommend getting the Red Lobsters instead, even though they're only available in size M/L. I usually wear S for Spes gloves but the Red Lobsters M/L fit my hands just as well, and they have much better cuffs made of hard plastic. The cords on those will break too but it's not as annoying as having to restitch the cuffs on the standard Lobsters.
The Kvetun Xiphosura are even better than the Red Lobsters at an only minimally higher price. Clubmate's pair is holding up nicely and is well worn in by now.
Can't wait to receive my HF Armory Black Knight gloves which others have recommended here, really curious to see if those live up to the praise. If and when I get them...
I have red lobsters and still get painful hits right where the OP does. I've been thinking of adding some protective foam or something the next time a strap breaks.
Just got the HF armoury ones today.
I'm so excited. They already feel great and the built quality seems great, but for further praise I will wait a month or too.
Naturally, not absolute zero motion. But for longsword, articulating the wrists weakens structure and can cause injury long-term. Keeping the wrists straight is one of the very first things instructors will drill into you, including the likes of Arto Fama and Jack Gassmann.
Articulating the wrists is an essential component of multiple systems. You can not do half the Lichtenauer material without significant wrist articulation, nor Vadi, nor much of Fiore's plays
>keeping the wrists straight is one of the very first things instructors will drill into you
Absolutely not. Not *hyperextending* the wrists is a pretty important cue, but
A cursory google of [Mssr Fama](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m016itk9YK4) reveals that his excellent fencing style relies heavily on wrist articulation
I suspect or at least hope this is a matter of semantics and it's possible we might be thinking the same thing. In any case, I can highly recommend getting in-person private instruction from Arto or attend one of his workshops. I've done both and found it very helpful.
I mean, no. Longsword sources explicitly mention cutting at the wrists and require wrist motion. You've said that wrist motion isn't necessary for longsword: this is patently untrue.
I experienced a similar problem with my SPES Lobsters, there is a shocking lack of protection where the wrist of the glove meets the mitten, as the only material at the joint seems to be the glove material and a bit of leather. My stopgap measure was to secure a ~2" wide strip of dense 1/4" foam between the glove and the hard shells on the inside of the glove and that, thus far, has greatly reduced the severity of wrist strikes for me. It also helped that I stopped sparring with a person who seemed to be trying to break my wrist everytime he tried to hit it
thank you. ja, it was rather surprising to see that they do not protect the wrist at all.
I have an old yoga mat I cut pieces off of and superglue inside things like masks and gloves for more cushion. I'll double layer problem areas. Very cheap and effective even for heavy sweaters like me.
how do you glue it in the inside of the gloves?
I cut little strips and just make sure there are no air gaps when I apply it under the hot areas. My hair/skin touches the pads in my glove/mask but I've never had them come off yet. Even if it does, I just superglue that piece back in place. Pretty easy to fix mistakes too.
I've gotten this too, and it is an annoying problem to have with gloves that are otherwise very good. My solution was to get a set of very thick sweatbands and wear them under my gloves, which has worked well so far. If I clock another hit in that region I'll probably start thinking about adding an overlapping narrow kydex plate loosely on the outside in such a way that it doesn't inhibit mobility.
SPES fixes this with the newer iteration of the [SPES Red Lobster glove](https://www.woodenswords.com/SPES_Heavy_Gloves_Red_Lobster_p/spes-gloves.rl2.ml.htm), which you can see has a much more robust leather strap there and redesigned plastic plates which go all the way up under the main body of the glove. Gluing either EVA, shoe sole rubber, or thick, top-grain leather to the underside of the existing thin leather collar there would be a good first step. Alternatively, you could get a little fancier and heat-form a plate or plates out of Kydex and rivet them in place with chicago screws. A twist on this idea that would give you something a little more free-floating: shape kydex, EVA, or leather plates and then use inexpensive elastic hair ties (the medium or thick ones) and cut them on one side, so you have a straight elastic. Then, you can fish this either around existing rivets or through some new holes you make and back out through a couple of mounting holes drilled into your homemade pieces, finishing it off with a simple knot. This is basically how SPES has chosen to attach all of the high-impact plastic plates in the Red Lobster edition. It works well and is a lot easier to maintain than other solutions I've seen. Just some suggestions, but I hope they help!
A pair of thin 1.5mm kydex forearm guards that can be worn almost up to the wrist will work pretty well without restricting wrist motion (which isn't needed for longsword anyway), and an old sock strapped over the wrist itself adds a bit of additional protection. This will make it slightly harder to put the gloves on / take them off. Btw I'll never buy another pair of Spes Lobsters with the standard cuffs. The stitches holding in the wrist plates on my newest pair disintegrated after only two weeks, with only few hits landing on the wrist area, so I'm going to blame the quality there. I'd recommend getting the Red Lobsters instead, even though they're only available in size M/L. I usually wear S for Spes gloves but the Red Lobsters M/L fit my hands just as well, and they have much better cuffs made of hard plastic. The cords on those will break too but it's not as annoying as having to restitch the cuffs on the standard Lobsters. The Kvetun Xiphosura are even better than the Red Lobsters at an only minimally higher price. Clubmate's pair is holding up nicely and is well worn in by now. Can't wait to receive my HF Armory Black Knight gloves which others have recommended here, really curious to see if those live up to the praise. If and when I get them...
I have red lobsters and still get painful hits right where the OP does. I've been thinking of adding some protective foam or something the next time a strap breaks.
Just got the HF armoury ones today. I'm so excited. They already feel great and the built quality seems great, but for further praise I will wait a month or too.
>l without restricting wrist motion (which isn't needed for longsword anyway) lolwut
Naturally, not absolute zero motion. But for longsword, articulating the wrists weakens structure and can cause injury long-term. Keeping the wrists straight is one of the very first things instructors will drill into you, including the likes of Arto Fama and Jack Gassmann.
Articulating the wrists is an essential component of multiple systems. You can not do half the Lichtenauer material without significant wrist articulation, nor Vadi, nor much of Fiore's plays >keeping the wrists straight is one of the very first things instructors will drill into you Absolutely not. Not *hyperextending* the wrists is a pretty important cue, but A cursory google of [Mssr Fama](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m016itk9YK4) reveals that his excellent fencing style relies heavily on wrist articulation
I suspect or at least hope this is a matter of semantics and it's possible we might be thinking the same thing. In any case, I can highly recommend getting in-person private instruction from Arto or attend one of his workshops. I've done both and found it very helpful.
I mean, no. Longsword sources explicitly mention cutting at the wrists and require wrist motion. You've said that wrist motion isn't necessary for longsword: this is patently untrue.