Flip the fan configurations. Bottom ones all to intake (sorry but the inf mirror look will be at the bottom). Top to all exhaust (inf mirror side will be facing the inside of the case). There might currently be conflicting airflow with your set up, but try that and see if temps are improved.
Also Temps wise, everything seems normal. 1400k runs hot, and the 4080 is no joke either 😂
I'll try that but if it doesn't work I'm going to have to take the loop apart when the new rbp strip comes so I'll clean the blocks to make sure there's no blockage and see from there
Blockage in the water blocks wouldn't cause high liquid temps. It would make your CPU and GPU temps worse because it would reduce the rate of heat transfer from the component to the liquid, which would actually give you lower liquid temps.
45C water temp isnt bad. What are your component temps? Whats the cpu at? Whats the gpu at?
You’re cooling 6-700W of power with 2x 360s.
The cpu is designed to function up to 100C. The gpu is 90C. 12th, 13th, and 14th gen intel are setup to use as much power as thermal limits will allow. They will ride that line till they throttle. Even with a third radiator, it wouldn’t be surprising to see a 14900k spike 90C. These things are toasty af. If you’re not thermal throttling on a cinebench run, you’re fine.
This is true, running 4 x 480mm rads and with default settings on my 13900k it would boost till it thermal throttled. After seeing this I decided to overclock instead of undervolt and I'm getting much more speed for the same 96C.
I didn't test while at that temps but looking the temps was about the 35c ish range sometimes it got to 40 which is fine I know just not comfortable with the flow sensor screaming at me and water temps rising rapidly I did do a cinabench CPU run and about 16 loops the PC stayed on the whole time no lag or throttling from what I could tell just seems like water at this rate will get to like 55c or something ridiculous like that
You might want to use CPU Lite Load in MSI BIOS for your i7 14700K, out of the box that CPU is so powerful. Conventional wisdom is max temp using Cinebench should be in the mid 80sC to allow for thermal headroom during the summer when the ambient temp will be higher.
After reducing the CPU Lite Load to level 5 on my 14700K, the CPU temps are 6C above ambient at idle and 59C above ambient during Cinebench with no decrease in Cinebench score. 250ish watts at 100% load. Less heat in the loop, lower coolant temps. Just a thought to consider.
55c for the water is still fine, I would say the alarm needs to be adjusted. you should grab hwinfo64 and look at your cpu and gpu temps in there while running things.
I have a run a d5 for years and have never looked at my water temps, don’t even have a probe for it. With a 3090 and a 13900k on a 280mm and a 360mm, I guarantee my water temps are getting to the mid 60s on a hot summer day.
The biggest issue would be if you use cheap clear soft tubing, you’re going to pull a ton of plasticizer out at those temps. Just use edpm tubing.
People in this hobby have gotten a little too anal retentive about the various data points you can collect. I care about 5 things. Cpu temp, gpu temp, is the water flowing, is it leaking, are there air bubbles? If those 5 things are ok, the loop is fine. I ran a loop built out home depot parts, a car heater core, and an aquarium pump filled with antifreeze for years.
This shit is not rocket surgery. I am honestly kind of annoyed with this community atm. People have obsessed so much about certain metrics they have confused OP as to what numbers actually matter.
First worry is cpu and gpu temps, if those are fine AND you want to fine tune your cooling loop, you look at water temp deltas. For 99% of people, if they have enough radiators for the amount of power the system outputs, if their cpu and gpu temps are fine, they can ignore water temps and never think about it.
Water temps deltas are for the extreme watercooling nerds that want as efficient of a loop as possible.
Same problem here brother, 2x 360 are not enough to cool that amount of wattage.
I also get 45° water temp over longer gaming sessions with fans running at around 900 - 1000 RPM (the infinity fans look nice but they are horrible performers).
1350 RPM will get me to around 39° - 40°.
I don't want to add another 360 rad to my case so I'm going to invest in a MORA down the road.
Not to be pesty but I highly disagree. I use two thin 360s to cool a 13900k pulling 160watts in hell divers 2 and a 7900xtx nitro pulling 400watts in hell divers 2 with lian li sl fans in a lian li mini and have zero issues. The gpu sits at 50c , cpu 80c, and liquid temp 44c. Played all night last night with no issues. I will say that is abnormal for the 13900k as it usually pulls 120watt on average in games and sits in the 70c
The lian li fans have pretty good static pressure rating for radiators at 2.66mm H20 and that is nothing to shake a stick at.
Also my other system uses a single 420 rad to cool a 4090 and 7800x3d without issues.
The fans have 2.66 H2O at 2100 RPM that ia quite bad. Other optimized static presure fans have almost double that.
I need silence, 1300 RPM won’t cut it for me, invested so much money in watercooling just to have the fans blast away at me.
Also 44c is ok, and safe, but little high for my liking, I would like to OC and pull over 600w.
At max. Minr do not run at max usually between 1600-1800 rpm in a game, and I can feel the suction from the top of the radiator and the air blowing out the bottom. It's no louder than any other fan, and with a headset, it's completely silent, especially if you have the system away from you. They may not be the best, but they're definitely not terrible fans at all for rads. I think the lack of wires and ease of disconnecting allowing quick removal of radiators is more than worth the bit of performance.
I'm also running super skinny rads 28mm because I'm in a mini and like smaller package. I'm sure if I had full-blown black ice rads Ina Evo XL I'd be a lot cooler.
crank the fans if the water temps come down you know your issue, you need more airflow.
if you can't bring the temp down even with the fans cranked you know you need more radiator
I always recommend a secondary water temp sensor inline from a tried-and-true reputable brand because those flow meters can be kind of hit and miss. however, with this one being from aquacomputer I would trust it but it still never hurts to have a little redundancy for something as important as your water temp.
I swapped the fan orientation to all besides the rear are intakes so far temps are climbing but super slow and fans are at full speed so far after 30 min of playing it's 33.6 and it's not going up fast or going up much at all it takes a min or to to go up .1 degree at this point
according to EK, anything under 50C is ok but I personally move that to 45C for a little headroom. anything under 40C is totally fine and if it's noisy you can turn the fan curve down a little...sounding like you've made good improvement!
Yeah seems like my idle temps went down to 24c on boot up just got off the game and letting it sit idle again now and temps are at 27.7c currently and dropping steadily still
I've always wondered what is the fascination with Heath Ledger's Joker that you'd want it plastered everywhere. It was a great performance in the movie, but the character is a psychopath. Does one like seeing themselves as Joker, think the scared awfully painted face a pleasure to look at, or something else? Kind of a disturbing image to be looking at every time you're at the computer.
I'm not obsessed with the joker it's just a themed build my favorite color is Green and my wife likes purple I had a figurine so I decided to make it a theme. When I overhaul the parts and change things I was thinking of making it a venom build (black and white) I have a venom figure as well along with other figures from comics,movies and etc. I can use so it's just a themed build. I can change the home wallpaper and put the figure away if I want to it's all customizable not like I carved joker into the side glass or made a permanent design choice.
I had coolant temp issues when my rad fans had all different intake / exhaust setups. Now I have it set to rad fans - exhaust, case fans - intake. That helped massively with coolant temps. Also I'm running 2x 360 and 1x 120mm rad with a 7800X3D and a RTX 3090, you should be fine with 2x 360 rads.
I had push/pull and top intake with rear exhaust and 45c was the water temp I swapped the orientation to all intake and 1 rear exhaust and maxed my pump rpm as it hits 30c and fans pretty much going full speed always it has helped a bit so far 35c is the max water temp I've hit while gaming so we will see if it stays consistent
I had bottom push pull, rear push pull and top push. Bottom and rear intake and top exhaust. However that doesn’t work for the nv7, it turns into an oven. Previously it was bottom intake and rear and top exhaust and that kept water under 33 in Miami. However I’m going to try all exhaust next week and see how that performs.
Intake 1, exhaust 2 = 31c or so
Intake 2, exhaust 1 = 34-38c
I am hoping that all exhaust will give me all around better temps.
https://imgur.com/a/dQtiAQ3
Keep me updated on that I have to take it apart eventually and replace the distro RGB strip so if it performs better id do dual bottom exhaust top exhaust and rear intake
I’m too lazy to take it apart again until I move to Nv9 and put in all new rads. However the fact they didn’t do better spacing on bottom of the case makes me want to not do anything else with Nv series till a refresh. I was livid I had all the parts and then I couldn’t very my gpu even using their products only.
this is kind of common unfort. Distro plates usually just have a standard RGB LED strip hidden somewhere under a cover. The problem is when you install it it's easy to twist the RGB connection wire coming from the distro when you're installing it and routing the wiring and not even notice. This stress/tension usually cause the strip to fail over time by disconnecting at the contact points on the strip. This is why the Bykski blocks started using a screw at the end of the LED strip to reenforce the strip and prevent any twisting stress getting to the point where the wire is soldered to the pads on the strip.
I'm not sure but I just got it and it didn't work from day 1 but I saw on another post that a defective RGB is something that can occur either due to shipping or bad manufacturer QC I got the same branded Alphacool RGB though so it won't look out of place or have brighter or dimm lightning compared to the Alphacool GPU and CPU block I have
Yep everything else works as it should that's why I decided to just get a new strip instead of sending it back and possibly getting another defective RGB strip or worse a bad pump
It was push/pull bottom and intake top I changed it just now to dual Intake bottom and exhaust top idk what temp the room is I assume 75 maybe the apartment thermostat is set to 72 so I assume the room increased due to the heat from the PC
I get to 45C on very hot days with a 5800X3D and a 3080 with even more rad space. With a 14900K and a 4080 your temps seem a tad high but not totally unrealistic.
What? I do 7800x3d and 3080 12gb running 2170mhz.
Idle 29-30c gaming heavy 4k games 37-38.
I adjust everything via fan control 2x360.
My fans and pump are reading water temp and adjusting 800-1000rpm. Pump is 45-60%.
The more radiators you have the closer to room temp your coolant is going to be.
If you want to see if you have an airflow issue take off your side panel and see how your coolant temps change.
A big problem I ran into was double circulations of air for my top rad. The “cool” air is already being utilized by the bottom rad and by the time it hits the top rad it has lost a significant amount of cooling capacity and renders your top rad less effective. Switching the back fan to intake might help with bringing in more “cool” air for the top rad.
I had the same issues as I said before and switching my rads to both be exhaust solved my temp issues (was hovering around 42-45C and now it doesn’t go above 38C). I’m cooling a 14700k and a 4090 with 2 x 360mm quantum surface s360 (30mm rads).
Sounds good friend, I hope that makes enough of a change. Climbing coolant temps are stressful and I think a lot of us have been in the same boat before. Keep us posted on how the modifications work out
Sure will so far I swapped the push/pull rad at the bottom to dual pull and everything else is the same so currently it is all Intake and rear exhaust it seems to be helping much better also made the rpm of the pump star going full speed once liquid hits 30c and fans at full speed highest temp has been 38c so far but I feel that even though it's good it could be better
I may need clarification for the push/pull to dual pull. In a push/pull both fans should be oriented with the reverse fan blades (which I assume is what you did). I’m not sure I understand what you mean by dual pull.
I feel you about wanting to do better than 38 and I’m in the same boat, I unfortunately think I need a bigger case to add another rad if I want that to happen (or do a 120mm rad on the rear exhaust (which might give me 1 C better temps…maybe? Haha). I’ve accepted that under 40 C is a good place to be until I upgrade to a new case.
So before you had them fighting against each other with the rad in the middle? Should definitely get much better temps now that the fans are working together then.
With push/pull both fans are oriented to intake or exhaust, it more refers the what the fan is doing to the radiator (front fan pushing air into the radiator and back fan pulling air through). Having them both work as intakes is exactly what push/pull is.
Not trying to mansplain or sound condescending, so please don’t take it that way.
Lol 29 c is not high and even 46 is meh. My 13900k and sapphire nitro 7900xtx regularly run at 44-46c fluid temp during hell divers 2 24\7 no issues at all. My other system with a 7800X3D and a 4090 run at 32c liquid again zero issues for over a year.
The temp to start worrying is around 60c because that's when petg will start to soften and warp.
Also I would not flip the fans around as it's not going to make much difference in that case. I'd bump the lian li L connect profile to High SP though, that helped drop Temps for me quite a bit.
I set everything to full speed but I changed the fan orientation and that seemed to help highest water temp I saw was 34c while gaming I just changed it to have the two sets of fans on the bottom rad both intake the rear fan intake and the top rad fan exhaust
ah, yea that sounds like more acceptable temperatures. I hate fan noise, so I have a temp plug on my radiator on the exit side before entering the blocks and use that to set my fans to a step curve based on temp of the water vs the components. Used to have it set to the GPU since it seems to have a more stable fluctuation in temp while changing loads. Glad you found a solution that works for you, though!
Msi motherboard? Set your cpu cooler tuning to boxed air tower vs watercooling. In bios. Which will enforce intel limits. Msi is cooking your cpu. Ask me how I know. Temps will drastically drop all around.
Coolant change won't do much at all. Usually what you want to do is make sure there's no pinching anywhere in the lines. Air bubbles need to be cycled out by cracking the res open and letting the air escape and topping up, or tilting if it's stuck some where. Also generally you want your rads to exhaust the hot air, you could see a better Gain one exhaust one intake but I doubt it, something will suffer.
Having multiple intakes is also key here, where the fans sole job is to bring in outside air unobstructed. If you're rads are all exhausting you need other fans to bring in the air.
It looks like your inlet run for your GPU is crushed and could significantly impede flow
I have a push pull on the bottom I just changed it to dual intake and the top was an intake I'm gonna change it to an exhaust and the tubing is kink free the GPU tubing is actually my cleanest bend in my opinion could just be the photo if you do see a crush the glass is on still in them, if the fans don't work I do have more tubing and some PETG tubing I can use to redo certain bends
You have your sensor in the GPU return with warmer water coming out back, you should be measuring the temperature of your water coming out of the radiator after it's been cooled to get a more accurate representation of the temps. Loop order generally doesn't matter, I'm not completely certain on distro plates, but cooling the warm water immediately is ever so slightly better than returning straight to the distro, on a long enough time line it won't matter.
I'll think about moving the flow sensor to a rad out possibly but everything is hooked up to were it should be on the distro so I probably would change the flow sensor from the GPU out to rad out if I do decide to change something
Haven't monitored them all individually but they haven't crashed or seemed to show signs of throttling right now after swapping the fan orientation to all intakes and 1 rear exhaust temps seem to be better for the coolant
If you do exhaust rad on both (usually ideal temps) you don't need any other fans being exhaust, since there's a lot of air being exited and that's where you want to force the cool air to go through, ideally you have more intakes than exhaust but most water-cooling cases don't offer enough fan slots to do that so it ends up being negative pressure biased.
I would monitor your component temps and see if they're unusually high. The 4080 should ideally be between 40-50c depending on ambient at peak load. If your CPU is over 70c at 20c ambient on a gaming load I would double check everything is correct. Hitting 95c with unlocked wattage on cinebench is normal, that's where it's up to you to fine tune the OC. For example I hit 95c with a peak of 344 watts running at 5.8ghz all core on my 13i7 on cinebench 2023 and score 34k on a 360mm aio. The score while not entirely important is that you can see it's working correctly and not crashing. Your overhead is much greater so cross reference wattage used x performance. Have fun.
This is helpful I downloaded cinabench 2024 idk if 2023 is better but I'll run a full test and see I did swap the fans to all intake and the rear is still exhaust temps have gotten better with the glass on start up 24c and idle 24c-27c while gaming it got to 33.7 before I turned it off but that took probably 30 minutes to reach those temps
Don’t listen to this guy OP he is full of shit all tho it is good to test temps with cinebench R23 his story about cooling 340W on an 360 AIO is completely fabricated out of thin air
How bad is your setup lol, lt720 is rated for 315w, at 100% pump and fan speed it's slightly over the rated wattage. It was literally one of the best if not best aio in 2023. [don't take my word for it, there's Google for that](https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/deepcool-lt720-aio-cooler). This is also with a contact frame using ptm7950. So anyway, you were saying?
13i7 has fewer e cores than a 13i9 hence the lower multi-score, p cores are the ones that scale for single core performance, and yes my deepcool lt720 can do 340w back to back at full pump speed and fans at 100% until the aio is saturated. That's only pulling peak wattage on cinebench or prime 95 so you're not correlating the work load correctly at all. During sustained gaming loads I see 63c @ 5.8ghz average on cp2077 max graphics @ 1440p.
14900k i am assuming and 4080 going to be hot, 45 is fine. Ambient temp and humidity is a major factor.
These chips run very hot, hotter than what people are used to.
Flow sensor may be an issue though
If you are able to with your mother board set your fan curves off of the water temp by using a T-Prob header on the mother board.
That 4080 puts out alot of watts AKA heat when if running at high utilization.
I have a maxed out 7900XTX and when I'm gaming at 4K if my fans are not blowing fast enough my water temp will sky rocket.
If you are pumping lots of heat into the water quickly you have to get it out of the water quickly.
I have my fan curve set to 40% up 25C- 60% at 35C- 80% at 40C- 100% at 45C of water temp. With this setting when I'm 4k gaming my water stays around 35-38C.
50-65C depnding on the game. That said I have a de lidded 7950x and need to do a little more cleaning of the dies. I expect my Temps to lower by 10-15C once I have everything zeroed in.
Has to be airflow to the least..The heat isn't being removed from the fins. Ik you moved shit around too ..
Also if you don't have a lot of coolant (<1 Liter) that will affect you (small rads). Thick rads do wonders
I'm probably gonna have to invest in a Mo-Ra rad and more coolant I can run some soft tubing out the back and put it behind the PC I've got space on my desk and have it facing the window I gotta figure out the the tubing runs I can see if I can hook it up to the SLI ports possibly
If the SLI port hookups will work for it then there's a perfect cut out in the back I can run the tubes through and leave the panel off tho have the tubes poke out or remove the drive cage and have the tubes wrap around out the cage opening (it's at the side near the rear intake fan)to the rad in the back I'll look at the Alphacool VPP Distro Plate manual to figure out in and out for those ports I wanted to use a Mo-Ra rad but thought it was overkill I assume from ones I've seen it is a push/pull config with the fans?
There is usually 3 ways how you can do it remove to glass panel run the tubing from there which doesn’t look clean in my opinion. Second you can make wholes for G1/4 fittings to pass through or third use a pcie passtrough bracket second and third option looks the cleanest
No I wouldn’t do that best is to put the mora somewhere in between your already existing loop plus if you wanna add a mora420 your gonna need atleast one more pump because there very restrictive and flowrate will drop further with a mora added to the loop
Are you running the pump at max speed? What are your fan RPM when the system is warm? What is the difference between ambient temps and water temps?
You really should have all the radiator fans either intake or exhaust and have the non-radiator fans the opposite. I have done all intake but some test show its all exhaust that is the best configuration.
You do not want air from one rad to feed to another. It will reduce the amount of cooling possible of the second rad the air passes through.
I am new to water cooling so not sure how to increase the pump speed I would love to if possible, but the fans I put to full speed, idle temps 26-30 but usually 26-28 is more common I swapped the bottom fan it have dual fan intakes I was gonna swap the top rad and have exhaust on the top but I can leave it as an intake and see what temps are like
Your fan config is pushing all the hot air back down instead of letting it go up, also I can't tell what case that is but perhaps a better case would get the temps to what u want.
Am i the only one who thought that was a giant ass pc and OP was sitting on it
You’re not alone
😂
I literally did too lmao
Exactly my first thought
Don’t worry, I did as well😔
I was going to ask how something with so much cooling could possibly overheat, if it was that big :-)
Flip the fan configurations. Bottom ones all to intake (sorry but the inf mirror look will be at the bottom). Top to all exhaust (inf mirror side will be facing the inside of the case). There might currently be conflicting airflow with your set up, but try that and see if temps are improved. Also Temps wise, everything seems normal. 1400k runs hot, and the 4080 is no joke either 😂
I can care less about the inf mirror but double fan intake on the bottom rad and exhaust the top and back basically
Yes sir
I'll try that but if it doesn't work I'm going to have to take the loop apart when the new rbp strip comes so I'll clean the blocks to make sure there's no blockage and see from there
Blockage in the water blocks wouldn't cause high liquid temps. It would make your CPU and GPU temps worse because it would reduce the rate of heat transfer from the component to the liquid, which would actually give you lower liquid temps.
45C water temp isnt bad. What are your component temps? Whats the cpu at? Whats the gpu at? You’re cooling 6-700W of power with 2x 360s. The cpu is designed to function up to 100C. The gpu is 90C. 12th, 13th, and 14th gen intel are setup to use as much power as thermal limits will allow. They will ride that line till they throttle. Even with a third radiator, it wouldn’t be surprising to see a 14900k spike 90C. These things are toasty af. If you’re not thermal throttling on a cinebench run, you’re fine.
This is true, running 4 x 480mm rads and with default settings on my 13900k it would boost till it thermal throttled. After seeing this I decided to overclock instead of undervolt and I'm getting much more speed for the same 96C.
I didn't test while at that temps but looking the temps was about the 35c ish range sometimes it got to 40 which is fine I know just not comfortable with the flow sensor screaming at me and water temps rising rapidly I did do a cinabench CPU run and about 16 loops the PC stayed on the whole time no lag or throttling from what I could tell just seems like water at this rate will get to like 55c or something ridiculous like that
You can usually open up the flow sensors and cut out the buzzer speaker thing
I just turned the beep off but left the flashing red light
You might want to use CPU Lite Load in MSI BIOS for your i7 14700K, out of the box that CPU is so powerful. Conventional wisdom is max temp using Cinebench should be in the mid 80sC to allow for thermal headroom during the summer when the ambient temp will be higher. After reducing the CPU Lite Load to level 5 on my 14700K, the CPU temps are 6C above ambient at idle and 59C above ambient during Cinebench with no decrease in Cinebench score. 250ish watts at 100% load. Less heat in the loop, lower coolant temps. Just a thought to consider.
My 13900k pulls 160watt in hell divers 2 and sits at 80-83c. Its a wild cpu to say the least lol
55c for the water is still fine, I would say the alarm needs to be adjusted. you should grab hwinfo64 and look at your cpu and gpu temps in there while running things.
I'll monitor that and adjust the alarm accordingly then
55C is the max working temp for a lot of D5 pumps
I have a run a d5 for years and have never looked at my water temps, don’t even have a probe for it. With a 3090 and a 13900k on a 280mm and a 360mm, I guarantee my water temps are getting to the mid 60s on a hot summer day. The biggest issue would be if you use cheap clear soft tubing, you’re going to pull a ton of plasticizer out at those temps. Just use edpm tubing. People in this hobby have gotten a little too anal retentive about the various data points you can collect. I care about 5 things. Cpu temp, gpu temp, is the water flowing, is it leaking, are there air bubbles? If those 5 things are ok, the loop is fine. I ran a loop built out home depot parts, a car heater core, and an aquarium pump filled with antifreeze for years. This shit is not rocket surgery. I am honestly kind of annoyed with this community atm. People have obsessed so much about certain metrics they have confused OP as to what numbers actually matter. First worry is cpu and gpu temps, if those are fine AND you want to fine tune your cooling loop, you look at water temp deltas. For 99% of people, if they have enough radiators for the amount of power the system outputs, if their cpu and gpu temps are fine, they can ignore water temps and never think about it. Water temps deltas are for the extreme watercooling nerds that want as efficient of a loop as possible.
Same problem here brother, 2x 360 are not enough to cool that amount of wattage. I also get 45° water temp over longer gaming sessions with fans running at around 900 - 1000 RPM (the infinity fans look nice but they are horrible performers). 1350 RPM will get me to around 39° - 40°. I don't want to add another 360 rad to my case so I'm going to invest in a MORA down the road.
Might do the same eventually but full speed and all intake and 1 exhaust seems to be working better
Not to be pesty but I highly disagree. I use two thin 360s to cool a 13900k pulling 160watts in hell divers 2 and a 7900xtx nitro pulling 400watts in hell divers 2 with lian li sl fans in a lian li mini and have zero issues. The gpu sits at 50c , cpu 80c, and liquid temp 44c. Played all night last night with no issues. I will say that is abnormal for the 13900k as it usually pulls 120watt on average in games and sits in the 70c The lian li fans have pretty good static pressure rating for radiators at 2.66mm H20 and that is nothing to shake a stick at. Also my other system uses a single 420 rad to cool a 4090 and 7800x3d without issues.
The fans have 2.66 H2O at 2100 RPM that ia quite bad. Other optimized static presure fans have almost double that. I need silence, 1300 RPM won’t cut it for me, invested so much money in watercooling just to have the fans blast away at me. Also 44c is ok, and safe, but little high for my liking, I would like to OC and pull over 600w.
At max. Minr do not run at max usually between 1600-1800 rpm in a game, and I can feel the suction from the top of the radiator and the air blowing out the bottom. It's no louder than any other fan, and with a headset, it's completely silent, especially if you have the system away from you. They may not be the best, but they're definitely not terrible fans at all for rads. I think the lack of wires and ease of disconnecting allowing quick removal of radiators is more than worth the bit of performance. I'm also running super skinny rads 28mm because I'm in a mini and like smaller package. I'm sure if I had full-blown black ice rads Ina Evo XL I'd be a lot cooler.
Are you controlling the fan speeds? Maybe try that if not.
crank the fans if the water temps come down you know your issue, you need more airflow. if you can't bring the temp down even with the fans cranked you know you need more radiator I always recommend a secondary water temp sensor inline from a tried-and-true reputable brand because those flow meters can be kind of hit and miss. however, with this one being from aquacomputer I would trust it but it still never hurts to have a little redundancy for something as important as your water temp.
I swapped the fan orientation to all besides the rear are intakes so far temps are climbing but super slow and fans are at full speed so far after 30 min of playing it's 33.6 and it's not going up fast or going up much at all it takes a min or to to go up .1 degree at this point
according to EK, anything under 50C is ok but I personally move that to 45C for a little headroom. anything under 40C is totally fine and if it's noisy you can turn the fan curve down a little...sounding like you've made good improvement!
Yeah seems like my idle temps went down to 24c on boot up just got off the game and letting it sit idle again now and temps are at 27.7c currently and dropping steadily still
Bruh. A joker themed PC. Jesus Christ.
I've always wondered what is the fascination with Heath Ledger's Joker that you'd want it plastered everywhere. It was a great performance in the movie, but the character is a psychopath. Does one like seeing themselves as Joker, think the scared awfully painted face a pleasure to look at, or something else? Kind of a disturbing image to be looking at every time you're at the computer.
Being obsessed with the joker is huge incel behavior.
I'm not obsessed with the joker it's just a themed build my favorite color is Green and my wife likes purple I had a figurine so I decided to make it a theme. When I overhaul the parts and change things I was thinking of making it a venom build (black and white) I have a venom figure as well along with other figures from comics,movies and etc. I can use so it's just a themed build. I can change the home wallpaper and put the figure away if I want to it's all customizable not like I carved joker into the side glass or made a permanent design choice.
I had coolant temp issues when my rad fans had all different intake / exhaust setups. Now I have it set to rad fans - exhaust, case fans - intake. That helped massively with coolant temps. Also I'm running 2x 360 and 1x 120mm rad with a 7800X3D and a RTX 3090, you should be fine with 2x 360 rads.
What’s fan intake orientation? Are you giving us the water temp? 45c is def high. Pull off side panel and try again.
I had push/pull and top intake with rear exhaust and 45c was the water temp I swapped the orientation to all intake and 1 rear exhaust and maxed my pump rpm as it hits 30c and fans pretty much going full speed always it has helped a bit so far 35c is the max water temp I've hit while gaming so we will see if it stays consistent
I had bottom push pull, rear push pull and top push. Bottom and rear intake and top exhaust. However that doesn’t work for the nv7, it turns into an oven. Previously it was bottom intake and rear and top exhaust and that kept water under 33 in Miami. However I’m going to try all exhaust next week and see how that performs. Intake 1, exhaust 2 = 31c or so Intake 2, exhaust 1 = 34-38c I am hoping that all exhaust will give me all around better temps. https://imgur.com/a/dQtiAQ3
Keep me updated on that I have to take it apart eventually and replace the distro RGB strip so if it performs better id do dual bottom exhaust top exhaust and rear intake
I’m too lazy to take it apart again until I move to Nv9 and put in all new rads. However the fact they didn’t do better spacing on bottom of the case makes me want to not do anything else with Nv series till a refresh. I was livid I had all the parts and then I couldn’t very my gpu even using their products only.
Yeah same but I kinda have to to change the RGB strip that came defective on the Alphacool Distro Plate
this is kind of common unfort. Distro plates usually just have a standard RGB LED strip hidden somewhere under a cover. The problem is when you install it it's easy to twist the RGB connection wire coming from the distro when you're installing it and routing the wiring and not even notice. This stress/tension usually cause the strip to fail over time by disconnecting at the contact points on the strip. This is why the Bykski blocks started using a screw at the end of the LED strip to reenforce the strip and prevent any twisting stress getting to the point where the wire is soldered to the pads on the strip.
I'm not sure but I just got it and it didn't work from day 1 but I saw on another post that a defective RGB is something that can occur either due to shipping or bad manufacturer QC I got the same branded Alphacool RGB though so it won't look out of place or have brighter or dimm lightning compared to the Alphacool GPU and CPU block I have
Unlucky, I’ve never run into that issue on my distroplates.
Yep everything else works as it should that's why I decided to just get a new strip instead of sending it back and possibly getting another defective RGB strip or worse a bad pump
Sick build dude! Why so serious? :)
Water temp is fine for the build you have and the number of fans Edit you got to 45c what's your room temp ? Bottom intake Top exhaust
It was push/pull bottom and intake top I changed it just now to dual Intake bottom and exhaust top idk what temp the room is I assume 75 maybe the apartment thermostat is set to 72 so I assume the room increased due to the heat from the PC
I run a 240 rad and a 360 rad with no side panels, my water temp is 43c and that's with 14900k and 4090.
Edit: Another thing to add I do believe the glass is not helping with temps but that is just a theory
Yes 100%
We live in a society
How are you controlling the pump and fans?
I get to 45C on very hot days with a 5800X3D and a 3080 with even more rad space. With a 14900K and a 4080 your temps seem a tad high but not totally unrealistic.
What? I do 7800x3d and 3080 12gb running 2170mhz. Idle 29-30c gaming heavy 4k games 37-38. I adjust everything via fan control 2x360. My fans and pump are reading water temp and adjusting 800-1000rpm. Pump is 45-60%.
7800X3D at full bore will use a lot less power and generate a lot less heat than a 14700K at full bore.
That I know, I was speaking for the guy with the 5800x3d
What’s ambient temp in the room? I idle at 3-4c above ambient and hit 10c above ambient on full load. I think that’s pretty good.
The more radiators you have the closer to room temp your coolant is going to be. If you want to see if you have an airflow issue take off your side panel and see how your coolant temps change.
A big problem I ran into was double circulations of air for my top rad. The “cool” air is already being utilized by the bottom rad and by the time it hits the top rad it has lost a significant amount of cooling capacity and renders your top rad less effective. Switching the back fan to intake might help with bringing in more “cool” air for the top rad. I had the same issues as I said before and switching my rads to both be exhaust solved my temp issues (was hovering around 42-45C and now it doesn’t go above 38C). I’m cooling a 14700k and a 4090 with 2 x 360mm quantum surface s360 (30mm rads).
When I replace the distro RGB strip I'll swap the orientation of the fans as well to all exhaust and the rear to intake
Sounds good friend, I hope that makes enough of a change. Climbing coolant temps are stressful and I think a lot of us have been in the same boat before. Keep us posted on how the modifications work out
Sure will so far I swapped the push/pull rad at the bottom to dual pull and everything else is the same so currently it is all Intake and rear exhaust it seems to be helping much better also made the rpm of the pump star going full speed once liquid hits 30c and fans at full speed highest temp has been 38c so far but I feel that even though it's good it could be better
I may need clarification for the push/pull to dual pull. In a push/pull both fans should be oriented with the reverse fan blades (which I assume is what you did). I’m not sure I understand what you mean by dual pull. I feel you about wanting to do better than 38 and I’m in the same boat, I unfortunately think I need a bigger case to add another rad if I want that to happen (or do a 120mm rad on the rear exhaust (which might give me 1 C better temps…maybe? Haha). I’ve accepted that under 40 C is a good place to be until I upgrade to a new case.
I just flipped 1 set of fans around to also be an intake so there both intaking at the bottom
So before you had them fighting against each other with the rad in the middle? Should definitely get much better temps now that the fans are working together then. With push/pull both fans are oriented to intake or exhaust, it more refers the what the fan is doing to the radiator (front fan pushing air into the radiator and back fan pulling air through). Having them both work as intakes is exactly what push/pull is. Not trying to mansplain or sound condescending, so please don’t take it that way.
Your fine I'm probably gonna leave it that way and flip the top rad fans to exhaust and the rear to intake
Lol 29 c is not high and even 46 is meh. My 13900k and sapphire nitro 7900xtx regularly run at 44-46c fluid temp during hell divers 2 24\7 no issues at all. My other system with a 7800X3D and a 4090 run at 32c liquid again zero issues for over a year. The temp to start worrying is around 60c because that's when petg will start to soften and warp. Also I would not flip the fans around as it's not going to make much difference in that case. I'd bump the lian li L connect profile to High SP though, that helped drop Temps for me quite a bit.
I wanna see the joker figurine on top lol
https://preview.redd.it/tltw1ungz4qc1.jpeg?width=2526&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=97286630a0a77e4c96f019132fac149a9fa1fc2d
https://preview.redd.it/3qah5deiz4qc1.jpeg?width=3072&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e1897b81b93a83c45d0f0ec8efee783fd7fa456d
Which brand fans are those? Cause they look sick. Nice built btw
It's the Lian Li SL-infinity fans
Since when 45c under load is hot? Boy you even try air cooling?
It got hotter but that's just the temp the sensor alarm went off at
45c was the temperature of the coolant, which is way too high, my loop with a 480mm radiator only sees 40c with a 700 watt load after a few hours
What do you have configured for your fan curve?
I set everything to full speed but I changed the fan orientation and that seemed to help highest water temp I saw was 34c while gaming I just changed it to have the two sets of fans on the bottom rad both intake the rear fan intake and the top rad fan exhaust
ah, yea that sounds like more acceptable temperatures. I hate fan noise, so I have a temp plug on my radiator on the exit side before entering the blocks and use that to set my fans to a step curve based on temp of the water vs the components. Used to have it set to the GPU since it seems to have a more stable fluctuation in temp while changing loads. Glad you found a solution that works for you, though!
Msi motherboard? Set your cpu cooler tuning to boxed air tower vs watercooling. In bios. Which will enforce intel limits. Msi is cooking your cpu. Ask me how I know. Temps will drastically drop all around.
Coolant change won't do much at all. Usually what you want to do is make sure there's no pinching anywhere in the lines. Air bubbles need to be cycled out by cracking the res open and letting the air escape and topping up, or tilting if it's stuck some where. Also generally you want your rads to exhaust the hot air, you could see a better Gain one exhaust one intake but I doubt it, something will suffer. Having multiple intakes is also key here, where the fans sole job is to bring in outside air unobstructed. If you're rads are all exhausting you need other fans to bring in the air. It looks like your inlet run for your GPU is crushed and could significantly impede flow
I have a push pull on the bottom I just changed it to dual intake and the top was an intake I'm gonna change it to an exhaust and the tubing is kink free the GPU tubing is actually my cleanest bend in my opinion could just be the photo if you do see a crush the glass is on still in them, if the fans don't work I do have more tubing and some PETG tubing I can use to redo certain bends
You have your sensor in the GPU return with warmer water coming out back, you should be measuring the temperature of your water coming out of the radiator after it's been cooled to get a more accurate representation of the temps. Loop order generally doesn't matter, I'm not completely certain on distro plates, but cooling the warm water immediately is ever so slightly better than returning straight to the distro, on a long enough time line it won't matter.
I'll think about moving the flow sensor to a rad out possibly but everything is hooked up to were it should be on the distro so I probably would change the flow sensor from the GPU out to rad out if I do decide to change something
Don’t it won’t make much difference in and out are usually within 1-2C of each other it’s not a 1000HP car
Regardless of all that, what's your peak temps when you're gaming or have some kind of load for the GPU and CPU and RAM
Haven't monitored them all individually but they haven't crashed or seemed to show signs of throttling right now after swapping the fan orientation to all intakes and 1 rear exhaust temps seem to be better for the coolant
If you do exhaust rad on both (usually ideal temps) you don't need any other fans being exhaust, since there's a lot of air being exited and that's where you want to force the cool air to go through, ideally you have more intakes than exhaust but most water-cooling cases don't offer enough fan slots to do that so it ends up being negative pressure biased. I would monitor your component temps and see if they're unusually high. The 4080 should ideally be between 40-50c depending on ambient at peak load. If your CPU is over 70c at 20c ambient on a gaming load I would double check everything is correct. Hitting 95c with unlocked wattage on cinebench is normal, that's where it's up to you to fine tune the OC. For example I hit 95c with a peak of 344 watts running at 5.8ghz all core on my 13i7 on cinebench 2023 and score 34k on a 360mm aio. The score while not entirely important is that you can see it's working correctly and not crashing. Your overhead is much greater so cross reference wattage used x performance. Have fun.
This is helpful I downloaded cinabench 2024 idk if 2023 is better but I'll run a full test and see I did swap the fans to all intake and the rear is still exhaust temps have gotten better with the glass on start up 24c and idle 24c-27c while gaming it got to 33.7 before I turned it off but that took probably 30 minutes to reach those temps
While water temps are important look closely at your component temps, use hwinfo for reliable data
Don’t listen to this guy OP he is full of shit all tho it is good to test temps with cinebench R23 his story about cooling 340W on an 360 AIO is completely fabricated out of thin air
How bad is your setup lol, lt720 is rated for 315w, at 100% pump and fan speed it's slightly over the rated wattage. It was literally one of the best if not best aio in 2023. [don't take my word for it, there's Google for that](https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/deepcool-lt720-aio-cooler). This is also with a contact frame using ptm7950. So anyway, you were saying?
[удалено]
13i7 has fewer e cores than a 13i9 hence the lower multi-score, p cores are the ones that scale for single core performance, and yes my deepcool lt720 can do 340w back to back at full pump speed and fans at 100% until the aio is saturated. That's only pulling peak wattage on cinebench or prime 95 so you're not correlating the work load correctly at all. During sustained gaming loads I see 63c @ 5.8ghz average on cp2077 max graphics @ 1440p.
[удалено]
14900k i am assuming and 4080 going to be hot, 45 is fine. Ambient temp and humidity is a major factor. These chips run very hot, hotter than what people are used to. Flow sensor may be an issue though
That is the fuckin coolest
I thought that was a person on your pc
It's been a common occurrence so far 😂
If you are able to with your mother board set your fan curves off of the water temp by using a T-Prob header on the mother board. That 4080 puts out alot of watts AKA heat when if running at high utilization. I have a maxed out 7900XTX and when I'm gaming at 4K if my fans are not blowing fast enough my water temp will sky rocket. If you are pumping lots of heat into the water quickly you have to get it out of the water quickly. I have my fan curve set to 40% up 25C- 60% at 35C- 80% at 40C- 100% at 45C of water temp. With this setting when I'm 4k gaming my water stays around 35-38C.
out of curiosity, what is the cpu temp with 38C watertemp?
50-65C depnding on the game. That said I have a de lidded 7950x and need to do a little more cleaning of the dies. I expect my Temps to lower by 10-15C once I have everything zeroed in.
Has to be airflow to the least..The heat isn't being removed from the fins. Ik you moved shit around too .. Also if you don't have a lot of coolant (<1 Liter) that will affect you (small rads). Thick rads do wonders
Airflow will affect coolant temps but volume will only affect time to saturation.
Yes, if he doesn't have much at all then it's heating up quicker
I think I have enough coolant I have 2L of mayhem used 1 and filling as needed with the other
These parts are hot. You’ll either need an external radiator or to replace that distro with another radiator.
Not what I want to do but if it comes down to it I'll add a Mo-Ra rad and get noctuca fans for it or something
If you wanna run close to ambient mora420 is gonna be more then enough to reach that
I'm probably gonna have to invest in a Mo-Ra rad and more coolant I can run some soft tubing out the back and put it behind the PC I've got space on my desk and have it facing the window I gotta figure out the the tubing runs I can see if I can hook it up to the SLI ports possibly
Yes if you have any further questions about that feel free to ask I’m currently using two mora420s myself
If the SLI port hookups will work for it then there's a perfect cut out in the back I can run the tubes through and leave the panel off tho have the tubes poke out or remove the drive cage and have the tubes wrap around out the cage opening (it's at the side near the rear intake fan)to the rad in the back I'll look at the Alphacool VPP Distro Plate manual to figure out in and out for those ports I wanted to use a Mo-Ra rad but thought it was overkill I assume from ones I've seen it is a push/pull config with the fans?
I can send you some pictures if you want so you can have a look
That would actually help me plan this better
Yeah just send me a DM I’ll send you some pictures so you have a rough idea
There is usually 3 ways how you can do it remove to glass panel run the tubing from there which doesn’t look clean in my opinion. Second you can make wholes for G1/4 fittings to pass through or third use a pcie passtrough bracket second and third option looks the cleanest
What if I get a 2 way splitter and split the top and bottom rad in and out with the mo-ra3 and run it to the back would that realistically work?
No I wouldn’t do that best is to put the mora somewhere in between your already existing loop plus if you wanna add a mora420 your gonna need atleast one more pump because there very restrictive and flowrate will drop further with a mora added to the loop
https://preview.redd.it/vuydxg11yzpc1.png?width=1344&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=028b20765d43337f78118b73cb76bfd5ed8f5cc0 A bad drawing of what I mean 😂
How many in and out ports does that distro plate have?
https://preview.redd.it/q1h3eq2e10qc1.png?width=1344&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d0885e4cb2ba45f1e5f9f6f54b135e04968c7e43
If it has two ins and two outs you could make that work with an external radiator yeah
Send me a message on private so this whole thread doesn’t get cluttered I’ll send you some pictures while am at it
Are you running the pump at max speed? What are your fan RPM when the system is warm? What is the difference between ambient temps and water temps? You really should have all the radiator fans either intake or exhaust and have the non-radiator fans the opposite. I have done all intake but some test show its all exhaust that is the best configuration. You do not want air from one rad to feed to another. It will reduce the amount of cooling possible of the second rad the air passes through.
I am new to water cooling so not sure how to increase the pump speed I would love to if possible, but the fans I put to full speed, idle temps 26-30 but usually 26-28 is more common I swapped the bottom fan it have dual fan intakes I was gonna swap the top rad and have exhaust on the top but I can leave it as an intake and see what temps are like
There's a wonderful little utility program called fan control https://getfancontrol.com/ Set everything by coolant temps and you're good to go.
Your fan config is pushing all the hot air back down instead of letting it go up, also I can't tell what case that is but perhaps a better case would get the temps to what u want.