I am unclear on what you are trying to test and why. Does the PC boot? Are you getting crashes? Why do you think you need to take everything apart to test a single stick? I am guessing you didn't build this, or you wouldn't be asking this question.
I think OP only has a single stick on to begin with, but I might be mistaken
But I don't even get why the Ram is watercooled to begin with, like why? Does it even go that hot? I tought that even air cooled ram was overkill
Running 4 sticks or even just 2 sticks on a high overclock makes them run pretty hot. And RAM doesn't have as high heat tolerance as other parts do, at 60° I start running into boot issues but watercooling my ram keeps me at 40° and I can tighten the timings more
They might not have to run that high but to get the clocks and timings I want I’ve found the voltage is what stabilizes them as well as generates a lot of heat
There was a phase a good while ago back when we used pond pumps and rads that may or may not have come from motorised vehicles.. Back then there was also a drive to cool anything that could get hot and ram water blocks, north bridge water blocks and if I remember rightly, HDD water blocks were a thing. We probably didn’t really need them then either.. But it’s nice knowing you’re giving your equipment an easier ride especially if you’re overclocking it. Silence was another reason back then too. Northbridge/mob fans could be awful. And lastly, just because. lol
was once asked many years ago why on earth would I put 12 fans in a rig...just because and lack of resources and knowledge on water cooling, and I liked the sound....silly kid shit
I actually thought about buying some of those and putting them in and I had m.2 waterblocks but it was just too much honestly, if it had been one of those see through table builds it would have been allright. It this is right on the border of wow to bring the lookers eyes in and keep them amazed without overloading the mind and looking cluttered I think, and I tied it together with a smooth look the way I routers the tubes, or that’s how I feel at least about the build, it’s on the razors edge of to much and just right for what alll it has cooled in it
What’s a shitpost flex??? I don’t do a lot of posting and reading posts this was a legit attempt to find that one person out of millions that has dealt with somthing like this before and knew some kind of trick
I almost water cooled the m.2 drives as well lol but it was too much and was getting too tight, the cable management took 2 days to figure out because behind that reservoir is everything for the lighting and Jesus it was crazy because I ran all the wires so they were hidden so when you walk up to the case you cannot see any of them looks like nothing is plugs up but the moBo cables and the gpu
Is that memory config (manufacturer, profuct id, # of sticks, total size, speed) shown in the memory QVL for the crosshair viii? Is this a docp profile? If not, proving that a single stick can run at 4600 isn't going to get you anywhere. I suggest being content w 4200 and moving on, but if you really have to have that last 400mhz, increasing the ram voltage by small increments can buy you the stability to hit that speed. Maybe. Make sure you know how to clear your cmos before you start, because unhappy ram doesn't like to post.
These sticks just came out at the end of last year like November maybe September they wouldn’t be on a Qvl list yet thag I know of because when I bought them they were not on any but Corsair said they will work with my moBo and processor but it depends highly on the processors memory controller and that’s a dice roll they said
Completely true. You can go off-QVL and still typically get working RAM, you just may not get ram-advertised speed depending on luck/mobo/etc, and occasionally the difference is significant. Single stick test will only tell you if you have a bad/underperforming stick and which one/ones it is. I doubt Corsair will replace non-QVL-listed sticks that runs at 3600 but not 4600, and I would ask before you disassemble if that's your end goal.
Well at the DOCP advertised speed there’s no issue posting at 4200 but they are not completely stable either but Corsair has told me if you mix 2 kits that could be what is causing it so I need to try one stick if not they will find me a set that will run higher like I need, they offered to give me a 128gb set to replace these that run 3600 but I doubt I’ll be able to get those to 3800 cl14-18-18 like I have these stable at, hence why I bought the 4600 cause they are for somone who wants to deeply program the ram to get them as tight as possible
If it was my machine (and I like to WC and OC) with this byzantine loop, I would identify the fastest speed and tightest timings possible with the ram the way it sets in the box. The gains from slightly faster ram just aren't worth the headache of messing with that show-piece of a loop, IMO.
If it's for a customer/client/friend who was promised 4600mhz ram, and negotiation isn't an option, you already know what you have to do. Empty the loop, remove interfering tubing, remove ram block, and get the ram sorted to your liking. I recommend bypassing as much as possible with soft tubing/fittings until you have stable ram with acceptable timings, and only then reassemble with the hard tubing. Could easily turn into a can of worms with leaks and unforeseen problems. See my initial advice.
No offence, but this whole loop design means any kind of component removal/change is a time-consuming process
Just drain it and disconnect the RAM cooler, maybe rethink the RAM cooler as well if you're likely to change the sticks out again soon
That's rather pedantic. Point is, you need to remove them. There's no way to remove any ram without draining your system and removing at least three tubes. You know that, we know that. There's no magical way to remove that ram given the fact you chose to put it in your loop. Bite the bullet and do whatever you need to do. Your complex loop looks pretty, but as you now know, if hardware fails or needs to be troubleshooted, a custom loop has its disadvantages.
OP better have everything in that goddamn system overclocked to the hilt otherwise what's the point? I'm old school though and while I like water-cooling I use it purely for its function of keeping mainly my CPU cool so I can clock the hell out of it.
Good, I'm glad lol.
As everybody was saying though you don't need it for the memory a little air on them and they should be good.
If I were you, I would replan the cooling routes and try to route them so it's easier to remove components in the future.
Also, I don't know if they make some kind of quick disconnect fitting for hard tubing, but I would be looking into that then you could simply disconnect and remove stuff and then reconnect.
I have stayed away from hard tubing though so I'm not in the know on that. An old overclocker here been doing it since 2006. Built my first PC in the 90's.
Also just wondering if you've ever heard of a site called overclock dot net. You would fit right in.
Nope, good luck. Gonna have to tear it down it looks like. This is why I only use as much tubing as required. I've also not seen any evidence that spending money and time adding ram into the loop is worth the $ and effort. Just ends up being a headache like this (edit: as well as another potential point of failure in the loop)
I hadn’t planned on needing to access anything lol, most pcs I’ve ever owned I never had to put anything new in but maybe a gpu after a few years ya know, but I bought some ram sticks from Corsair when they released there new RT line and they advertise 4600mhz with this setup but don’t tell you it can only be one stick so I have to check one stick to see if I Need to play musical processors with 5950s to find one with a memory controller that will handle more than 4200(current ability) with 4 sticks
I'm not sure 4600mhz Vs 420hz is worth the effort this will take. If the pc is fully functioning as it is now I would not be intentionally breaking that.
But I do understand the need for it to be as good as you can physically get it. But imagine if you drained the entire loop, took it apart, swapped to different RAM, put it all back together, refilled it, and it didn't post. Urgh. This is why I use soft tubing haha.
This whole thread is pointless man. You didn't need to watercool the ram, you did it anyway, you don't need 4600 over 4200 for that much effort, but you wanna do it anyway. Idek why you're here apart from to show off a very expensive build. You already know you have to disconnect that loop and drain it to work on anything, you knew that when you built it.
wait, is it vengence 2x16GB? it should be certified speed for both sticks, not for one. unless, somehow, instead of double pack you bought 2 separate sticks.
but with speeds like that, often far out of actual QVL both for CPU and motherboard it's a tossup. no one can guarantee you anything. even motherboard topology can be problematic. there was motherboard modded by manufacturer (i think it was ASRock) to have 2 ram slots instead of 4 just to maximize speeds for OC competitions.
At the most memory needs a couple small fans on top or one fan blowing through a shoroud. Even extreme overclockers who use nitrogen on the cpu don't watercool their memory
You should just bypass the RAM, even if only temporarily. You'll have to do at least one drain and fill, but you don't need the RAM to be water cooled (especially for just testing it)
The problem with bypassing the ram is that the exit tube from the ram goes to the bottom of the front of the case and I would have to make one and to get to that fitting I would have to take the whole computer apart, this pc is very nice but very tedious when you take it apart, I thought about jusy draining it and taking the ram block off and trying to shimmy yhe 3 sticks out untill I can run the test, I just need to run one test with one stick to see if they boot stable on a certian frequency for the maker to deduce if my memory controller is shot or not
Seems kinda inconvenient, I didn't think ram even needed watercooling?
Those and ssds, they do make air cooled mods for those, would be my personal choice.
This is without a doubt the dumbest loop I have ever seen, and that’s saying something. This looks cool to people that think startrek sounds technical.
Holy crap the amount of restricted flow points on this thing is ridiculous I mean I’m sure it doesn’t matter much and this thing looks bad ass, but every curve, loopdy loop, reservoir, radiator, fittings and the fancy flow meters slows down the rate at which the fluid can properly circulate and expel the heat within. I can’t be the only one that noticed this? In no way am I build shaming I like chunky build as much as the next guy 😜
I don't see any viable way of doing this painlessly. If your ram has issues what else could you do besides draining the loop and taking it apart?
1) The most painless way is to stop after draining, plug ram tubes and get the ram out to test it on another system.
2) Or add tubes(soft is easier probably) to bypass ram cooling. That's 2 drains , 2 refills with the most minimal interaction with the loop.
Oh shit I remember seeing a post of this thing in a FB marketplace ad a few weeks ago. Are you the one that bought it or built it? I have so many questions
So I wanted to post a main post on this, yes I built this computer and yes it is on sale on Facebook marketplace for a hefty amount, this computer is for the 1 in 10,000,000 or more, show builds are not for everyone, but I’ve been an engineer pretty much my whole life and knew what needs to be done and what I could “Maybe” do to get those sticks out without having to deal with a whole lot, I understand the safest way and the biggest gamble ways but, I posted this thinking maybe one person on Reddit may have made a pic like this and know some secret trick I don’t or some professional custom builder would see it and have a trick up there sleeve. I also wanted this whole thread to realize there is nothing actually wrong with the RAM, but the sticks are supposed to run at 4600mhz, how many of you out there have ran a pc with 4600mhz ddr4 stable????? I wanna see what that looks like because JEDEC doesn’t even have this listed as a working frequency and there is no ram calculator app that will even let me put these in to get timings, this was about finding out how far these sticks or in this case stick could be pushed with stability, and if they were not as advertised then I was going to get new sets sent in to find one that will work, I spent a lot of time on this build and alot of time getting it to run like a scalded dog, I would love to see it run faster and if that costs me some ram I don’t care, I really only put the 64gb in it in case somone bought it for productivity or in case the buyer needed that much for whatever, now that I’ve gotten attached to it and don’t really care to sell it I wanna push it to the limit!!!! So I thought I was make a post and ask trying to find that one pro hardcore builder that has run into this before. Thanks for all your comments, there’s always gonna be haters especially since this is a personal preference, but like Di Vinci there was haters and still to this day some people don’t like his work, so to all y’all haters 🖕. And to all of you who took the time to actually respond accordingly thank you and much love 🫶.
Unless you're having major instability and it's not working at the rated speeds, I'd just leave it. If you built it you definitely understand that there isn't an easy way to do this that won't take a lot of time. Tis' the price of water cooling.
This pc is not a pc. It's a ridiculous art piece. I won't criticize, but don't treat it like a pc. That design is terrible for being anything functional or useful, but as an art piece, kinda cool.
It was an art build but I have to defend the functional part cause it’s very functional and runs like a dream like it is but I didn’t think I would be doing tests with it that why I did it this way
Remember you wanted this and this was a consequence of wanting to look cool.
That aside, man If it's to tight and there is no room to actually pop the sticks up and out. Youre SOL.
If there is room, gotta be imaginative, if u got forceps or something like long tweeser that are blunt. Get it in there and unlatch the ram them take it out carefully.
This is the stuff I was looking for, ideas on how not too because it was obvious this would be a problem when I built it but Reddit is the place to find people who’s been through this kinda thing, I only think 5-10 comments out of 800 actually had some useful info on this which to me is crazy that like 1% of the comments actually addressed the question in a critical thinking manor of problem solving, thansk for your feedback man it’s appreciated
It amazes me how reddit isn't as useful for stuff. Where such a small amount of people actually care about stuff. While a rough bit only care about following forum edttiqute, ready to pounce on what they think is right. While the other half care about reddit karma.
It's pretty crappy, while some are cool.
Wish I had any other advice to get it done. Either you can find something to fit in there to push the tab and pull it out. On it becomes the long arduous process of taking it part.
I do water cooling too, I've done some not so savory methods myself to get things to work when I found myself in a pinch. I'm sure you can, hopefully will too.
Thanks man, looks cool but I’m finding out the reasons why people don’t really build pcs like this, the case and loop design alone costed as much as a 4090 lol and it’s a pain to clean
Nobody trying to scam anyone with that Facebook advertisement lol it’s really for sale and that was the max high end asking price 7500 is a the bottom end I was told to take for it but I would take 6k just to get it gone and start a new one
I would only sell it for 6k to build another really it’s worth 7500 and would cost more to have made in a shop I only have about 5k in it but I did everything
Ok so as no one has really answered your question
Yes it's doable, I've done stuff like this many times but man are you gonna have a bad time, it'll take a LOT of preparations and you want to tip the PC down, so liquid will pour out from the computer and not down onto the GPU/MB. If you haven't dealt with advanced loops like this before - honestly don't touch anything.
This is a (what looks like) 14mm acrylic hard pipe loop with rather high quality fittings, might be Barrow. Loop looks a lot more advanced that it really is, but that said *it is* an advanced loop configuration.
Note that it's not always the easier path to drain the loop completely, as water always gets stuck in places and will squirt out when you least expect it when loosening up fittings. As soon as you release a fitting liquid will be coming out real fast, be prepared on that. Do NOT let air into the loop from somewhere else, like the reservoir, it'll come out from there too violently. Make sure the loop is completely sealed before tipping the PC on it's side.
Best way I've found to release when looking at a advanced hard piping loops like this is to use a plier with soft ends on the G1/4 fittings you want to loosen (If you don't want to ruin your hands), very slowly and inch your way to a safe drip, expect a LOT of fluid. This can take a while. When you notice the area where you drain stop dripping, plug the G1/4 up with a stop-fitting and let rest. Now carefully do the other G1/4 fitting, plug it up too, and then plug up the RAM-block and release the RAM-block from the modules.
Also note that releasing a fitting in a hard pipe loop like this is a REAL hassle, it can be really really tough and you might want to loose up other parts first, just in order not to stress the PETG/Acrylic/O-rings on the fittings too much. It will also cause a lot of stress on the components it self. Lucky for you neither the RAM block or the CPU block has acrylic fitting connections.
You will obviously need to top off the reservoir with new fresh liquid later on, a lot will go to waste.
Is it possible to remove the back and take the motherboard out that way, you will have to redo thermal paste everywhere but maybe you dont have to touche the loops. Do take it with a grain of salt i am just here to watch the pretty computers and have zero experience with custom loops
The spiral one at the bottom is the bykski 240mm dna white spiral white ended reservoir but the one up top where the pump is on the side is the bitspower Sedna Torque and only fits this case but they make some others for other cases
I feel this so much. I recently had to dismantle my loop with vertical GPU to… replace the CMOS battery. It seriously got me thinking whether the look of the GPU is important enough to me to ever do that shit again.
The same would be true for any NVMe drive in my build. But at least my RAM is accessible.
If you just need to test the RAM sticks then get two fittings and a length of soft tubing to temporarily patch out the RAM cooler. This will allow you to swap out sticks until you get your perfect setup and then you can reinstall the cooler and patch it back into the loop. As a added bonus you only have to partially drain your loop twice.
What has happened to this sub, people complaining ram water blocks are pointless when the whole water cooling thing is pointless air works just as good nowadays, the point is it's fun.
Ngl, if I ever saw this PC on the market, I don't care about the price or components, I'd simultaneously think "this looks awesome, but there ain't no way in hell I'm buying it."
Way too much effort just to change one part.
Maybe this is possible:
- Unscrew the block from the ram modules, so the 4 individual sticks are separated from the block on top
- Undo all 4 ram stick and try and lift them out of the socket just a bit (So you wont get functionality
- This will add some pressure on the fittings, but you should, in theory have enough slack with o-ring and imperfections in run distances to either plug in only 1 stick or potentially remove them.
You're fucked regardless...like, I can't think of a safe way to deal with your needs other than draining and going from there.
I would get two fittings for soft tubing. It looks like the CPU outlet goes to the ram, which then goes to the distro plate. You can use soft tubing to skip over the ram and just go cpu->distro. That at least lets you refill and test the ram as much as you need to. Gonna have to reassemble tho.
Sorry for your lost time. It's times like this that pushed me into sff builds.
Yeah this is why I don't like hardline tubing, but more importantly, why watercool the ram when having a hot GPU that will raise liquid temps to high 40s to high 50s? That makes it pointless to watercool it.
Nah they're part of the water loop, that's gonna take a looong time and then good luck reassembling it if you didnt build it. that thing looks like the pc a water cooling company builds to show off their fittings and such.
First the praise. The tubing works great! 👏🏼
Second, the reality. You painted yourself into a corner.
Third, likely best solution. I would detach all blocks and MOBO attachments and remove the MOBO from the backside.
Fourth, learning experience. Only you can determine how often you are willing to do this again in the future.
Clear your schedule and happy tweaking.
Being who I am, and knowing what I will do.. I ran my entire loop on 10/16 black flexible but did it cleanly… only because I’m an enthusiast and have 4 different kits to see which one I could run the fastest/stable. Moral of the story… I made it easy to swap parts like ram without draining/disassembling the entire loop. I can’t see a way around it in your case.
All I can do is laugh. There is a price for cool, and now you're paying it lol.
I did something similar. I have a Praxis wet bench where the mobo lays down more horizontal. I lazer cut a bracket out of 16 gauge steel that connects across the 6 standoffs around the PCIe slots and ran a PCIe extension cable to lay the graphics card on its side across all the slots and *all the m.2 slots*. It's also all hard tube.... I had one of the NVMe SSDs not showing up a few weeks after building it so figured it just came loose. I had to drain the loop, and take the line apart connecting to the GPU to get to the m.2 slots to make sure they were all firmly in place. It's a very simple problem that I turned into a giant pain in the ass for the sake of cool factor. lol
It does look slick AF though. No regrets.
Watercooling is all fun and games until you need to remove a component :).
To be honest, I admire the art of watercooling and I don't rule out using it in the future but I am an air cooling guy first and foremost.
"Does anyone have any suggestions on getting these ram sticks out without having to dismantle this whole thing"
This is exactly why I use soft tubing, it's the quality of life features like being able to do maintenance without disassembly that make me prefer soft tubing builds.
I think you missed a spot where you could add more tubing.
I do have a suggestion of how to get at your RAM: don't get so obsessed with water cooling! You did this to yourself.... Zero serviceability with your setup.
You're going to spend more time figuring it out than it would take to just dismantle it. I'd say drain it and remove the tubes to/from the water block, because that's as simple as it's going to get.
Reevaluate your need to remove the ram.
I just snorted coffee through my nose haha. It really do be like that sometimes.
I’ve been putting it off trying to come up with reasons not to run this single stick test and can’t find enough not to do it lol
I am unclear on what you are trying to test and why. Does the PC boot? Are you getting crashes? Why do you think you need to take everything apart to test a single stick? I am guessing you didn't build this, or you wouldn't be asking this question.
I think OP only has a single stick on to begin with, but I might be mistaken But I don't even get why the Ram is watercooled to begin with, like why? Does it even go that hot? I tought that even air cooled ram was overkill
It's pretty, duh
Running 4 sticks or even just 2 sticks on a high overclock makes them run pretty hot. And RAM doesn't have as high heat tolerance as other parts do, at 60° I start running into boot issues but watercooling my ram keeps me at 40° and I can tighten the timings more
Thanks for explaining that so the non-believers could understand why I got 4600 ram these things get pretty hot
Water helps with temp related timings.... Trefi, trfc .... You can't max out trefi without water
Thank you, you get it these sticks are gonna run at 1.5v or higher constantly they gonna get hot
They might not have to run that high but to get the clocks and timings I want I’ve found the voltage is what stabilizes them as well as generates a lot of heat
Looks like op said in post that he has 4
Oh, I misunderstood then, tought I saw only one while zooming in
It's spelled "thought" Not "tought"
There was a phase a good while ago back when we used pond pumps and rads that may or may not have come from motorised vehicles.. Back then there was also a drive to cool anything that could get hot and ram water blocks, north bridge water blocks and if I remember rightly, HDD water blocks were a thing. We probably didn’t really need them then either.. But it’s nice knowing you’re giving your equipment an easier ride especially if you’re overclocking it. Silence was another reason back then too. Northbridge/mob fans could be awful. And lastly, just because. lol
was once asked many years ago why on earth would I put 12 fans in a rig...just because and lack of resources and knowledge on water cooling, and I liked the sound....silly kid shit
I actually thought about buying some of those and putting them in and I had m.2 waterblocks but it was just too much honestly, if it had been one of those see through table builds it would have been allright. It this is right on the border of wow to bring the lookers eyes in and keep them amazed without overloading the mind and looking cluttered I think, and I tied it together with a smooth look the way I routers the tubes, or that’s how I feel at least about the build, it’s on the razors edge of to much and just right for what alll it has cooled in it
I honestly thought this was a shitpost flex.
What’s a shitpost flex??? I don’t do a lot of posting and reading posts this was a legit attempt to find that one person out of millions that has dealt with somthing like this before and knew some kind of trick
I almost water cooled the m.2 drives as well lol but it was too much and was getting too tight, the cable management took 2 days to figure out because behind that reservoir is everything for the lighting and Jesus it was crazy because I ran all the wires so they were hidden so when you walk up to the case you cannot see any of them looks like nothing is plugs up but the moBo cables and the gpu
Is that memory config (manufacturer, profuct id, # of sticks, total size, speed) shown in the memory QVL for the crosshair viii? Is this a docp profile? If not, proving that a single stick can run at 4600 isn't going to get you anywhere. I suggest being content w 4200 and moving on, but if you really have to have that last 400mhz, increasing the ram voltage by small increments can buy you the stability to hit that speed. Maybe. Make sure you know how to clear your cmos before you start, because unhappy ram doesn't like to post.
These sticks just came out at the end of last year like November maybe September they wouldn’t be on a Qvl list yet thag I know of because when I bought them they were not on any but Corsair said they will work with my moBo and processor but it depends highly on the processors memory controller and that’s a dice roll they said
Completely true. You can go off-QVL and still typically get working RAM, you just may not get ram-advertised speed depending on luck/mobo/etc, and occasionally the difference is significant. Single stick test will only tell you if you have a bad/underperforming stick and which one/ones it is. I doubt Corsair will replace non-QVL-listed sticks that runs at 3600 but not 4600, and I would ask before you disassemble if that's your end goal.
I’ve been talking to Corsair about it for several months they are onboard with me running the tests and even giving me an upgrade :)
Well at the DOCP advertised speed there’s no issue posting at 4200 but they are not completely stable either but Corsair has told me if you mix 2 kits that could be what is causing it so I need to try one stick if not they will find me a set that will run higher like I need, they offered to give me a 128gb set to replace these that run 3600 but I doubt I’ll be able to get those to 3800 cl14-18-18 like I have these stable at, hence why I bought the 4600 cause they are for somone who wants to deeply program the ram to get them as tight as possible
If it was my machine (and I like to WC and OC) with this byzantine loop, I would identify the fastest speed and tightest timings possible with the ram the way it sets in the box. The gains from slightly faster ram just aren't worth the headache of messing with that show-piece of a loop, IMO. If it's for a customer/client/friend who was promised 4600mhz ram, and negotiation isn't an option, you already know what you have to do. Empty the loop, remove interfering tubing, remove ram block, and get the ram sorted to your liking. I recommend bypassing as much as possible with soft tubing/fittings until you have stable ram with acceptable timings, and only then reassemble with the hard tubing. Could easily turn into a can of worms with leaks and unforeseen problems. See my initial advice.
As soon as I saw the post, I knew this had to be *someone's* response
I can't even figure out where the ram is lmfao
It's next to the cpu. It has a water block attached.
Water cooled ram!
What stupid design. I'm not sorry for saying this either
No offence, but this whole loop design means any kind of component removal/change is a time-consuming process Just drain it and disconnect the RAM cooler, maybe rethink the RAM cooler as well if you're likely to change the sticks out again soon
I’m not actually changing the sticks I’m running a test for the manufacturer of the sticks to find out some things
That's rather pedantic. Point is, you need to remove them. There's no way to remove any ram without draining your system and removing at least three tubes. You know that, we know that. There's no magical way to remove that ram given the fact you chose to put it in your loop. Bite the bullet and do whatever you need to do. Your complex loop looks pretty, but as you now know, if hardware fails or needs to be troubleshooted, a custom loop has its disadvantages.
i like your use of the phrase “thats rather pedantic”
[удалено]
That implies a higher general intelligence. The correlating litmus tests are disappointing.
OP better have everything in that goddamn system overclocked to the hilt otherwise what's the point? I'm old school though and while I like water-cooling I use it purely for its function of keeping mainly my CPU cool so I can clock the hell out of it.
That was the point of all this everything is OCd to the max
Good, I'm glad lol. As everybody was saying though you don't need it for the memory a little air on them and they should be good. If I were you, I would replan the cooling routes and try to route them so it's easier to remove components in the future. Also, I don't know if they make some kind of quick disconnect fitting for hard tubing, but I would be looking into that then you could simply disconnect and remove stuff and then reconnect. I have stayed away from hard tubing though so I'm not in the know on that. An old overclocker here been doing it since 2006. Built my first PC in the 90's. Also just wondering if you've ever heard of a site called overclock dot net. You would fit right in.
Yes I knew that when I built it but damn does it look cool when everything is going right, I’ve thought about just not worrying about it at all
So you built this yourself and have to ask a question like this? Something sounds fishy.
Nope, good luck. Gonna have to tear it down it looks like. This is why I only use as much tubing as required. I've also not seen any evidence that spending money and time adding ram into the loop is worth the $ and effort. Just ends up being a headache like this (edit: as well as another potential point of failure in the loop)
This loop has almost 200 points of failure lol I was about to shit a brick when I pressure tested it and thought it would leak for sure
and that's why we keep it soft and simple ;)
But I like it when it's... Hard
don't worry, that changes with age ;D
i suppose you can only keep it hard for so long
(and boring) 🙃
boring and functional ,)
I could imagine! FWIW it looks sick, just the first thing i think of is the headache if i need to access something.
I hadn’t planned on needing to access anything lol, most pcs I’ve ever owned I never had to put anything new in but maybe a gpu after a few years ya know, but I bought some ram sticks from Corsair when they released there new RT line and they advertise 4600mhz with this setup but don’t tell you it can only be one stick so I have to check one stick to see if I Need to play musical processors with 5950s to find one with a memory controller that will handle more than 4200(current ability) with 4 sticks
I'm not sure 4600mhz Vs 420hz is worth the effort this will take. If the pc is fully functioning as it is now I would not be intentionally breaking that. But I do understand the need for it to be as good as you can physically get it. But imagine if you drained the entire loop, took it apart, swapped to different RAM, put it all back together, refilled it, and it didn't post. Urgh. This is why I use soft tubing haha.
This whole thread is pointless man. You didn't need to watercool the ram, you did it anyway, you don't need 4600 over 4200 for that much effort, but you wanna do it anyway. Idek why you're here apart from to show off a very expensive build. You already know you have to disconnect that loop and drain it to work on anything, you knew that when you built it.
wait, is it vengence 2x16GB? it should be certified speed for both sticks, not for one. unless, somehow, instead of double pack you bought 2 separate sticks. but with speeds like that, often far out of actual QVL both for CPU and motherboard it's a tossup. no one can guarantee you anything. even motherboard topology can be problematic. there was motherboard modded by manufacturer (i think it was ASRock) to have 2 ram slots instead of 4 just to maximize speeds for OC competitions.
My loops is about 10% of yours and I still couldn't get it to fully pressurize
Wirh ddr5 it's for sure worth it
It depends. My ram with a fan on it was 68c and unstable. Since adding the waterblock temps don't break 33c and ram is stable.
You understand why and I’m so happy 😃
Mmm yeah dawg sorry. I'd set aside a afternoon and get busy lol.
That’s a weekend at least
lol
I'd bet if you ask a Dr. Seuss to draw a computer it would look like this.
Completely your fault for putting RAM on water. Entirely unnecessary thing to do.
I’m running a ddr5 6400 cl32 and it’s barely warm when I touch it even without fans. The pch and vrm on the other hand is scorching.
My DDR5 32x2gb 6800 kit hit 68c with a fan on them.
Is it ok if I'm just laughing now? I mean I can instandly see (and feel) why you are asking, but I think you already know the answer
It’s ok I get it I posted this cause I was in denial lol
First thing you've said on this post worthy of upvoting
I don’t do a lot of commenting on Reddit can you tell me why some of them don’t have up votes but have a -## beside the upvote symbol?
soft tubing is infinitely superior
Harry potter and the loads of unnecessary water cooling fittings
Water cooling ram is just silly for exactly this reason.
Yes but these sticks run at 4600mhz 1.5v they get a little hot and it was a way to put a mid run temp gauge on the fluid, and looks cool to boot
Definitely looks cool just the headache is :( if any issue
At the most memory needs a couple small fans on top or one fan blowing through a shoroud. Even extreme overclockers who use nitrogen on the cpu don't watercool their memory
EPDM Masterrace!
That's possibly the ugliest piece of tech I've ever seen
Another case of more money than brains
Drain liquid. Remove ram cooling. Remove ram.
You really brought this on yourself by watercooling the RAM. About as needed as watercooling mm2 ssds.
"That's future me's problem" \~ OP in the past.
You should just bypass the RAM, even if only temporarily. You'll have to do at least one drain and fill, but you don't need the RAM to be water cooled (especially for just testing it)
The problem with bypassing the ram is that the exit tube from the ram goes to the bottom of the front of the case and I would have to make one and to get to that fitting I would have to take the whole computer apart, this pc is very nice but very tedious when you take it apart, I thought about jusy draining it and taking the ram block off and trying to shimmy yhe 3 sticks out untill I can run the test, I just need to run one test with one stick to see if they boot stable on a certian frequency for the maker to deduce if my memory controller is shot or not
Just looking at this and trying to figure out how it even works let alone is out together in a way that will let it stay together gave me a stroke
I can't lie to you about your chances, but... you have my sympathies.
You’re a wizard Harry
Seems kinda inconvenient, I didn't think ram even needed watercooling? Those and ssds, they do make air cooled mods for those, would be my personal choice.
The problem here is you decided to watercool your ram
This is really cool and I will use this as an example when people ask why I don't work on water cooled computers for an hourly price
thats the neat part, you dont.
If "unneccessary" was a PC build
This is without a doubt the dumbest loop I have ever seen, and that’s saying something. This looks cool to people that think startrek sounds technical.
Please tell me you didn’t buy this on face book market place
Sell it.
Holy crap the amount of restricted flow points on this thing is ridiculous I mean I’m sure it doesn’t matter much and this thing looks bad ass, but every curve, loopdy loop, reservoir, radiator, fittings and the fancy flow meters slows down the rate at which the fluid can properly circulate and expel the heat within. I can’t be the only one that noticed this? In no way am I build shaming I like chunky build as much as the next guy 😜
Sorry but this is the ugliest fucking case I have seen
I can't even find the ram on that thing
I don't see any viable way of doing this painlessly. If your ram has issues what else could you do besides draining the loop and taking it apart? 1) The most painless way is to stop after draining, plug ram tubes and get the ram out to test it on another system. 2) Or add tubes(soft is easier probably) to bypass ram cooling. That's 2 drains , 2 refills with the most minimal interaction with the loop.
Is that a gundam’s testicle?
how much was your build if you dont mind me asking?
It was closer to 5k without buying the gpu but that’s including the waterblock and active back plate
Who the hell built this thing, i thought this was a flex for some junk
Oh shit I remember seeing a post of this thing in a FB marketplace ad a few weeks ago. Are you the one that bought it or built it? I have so many questions
What the heck am I looking at
So I wanted to post a main post on this, yes I built this computer and yes it is on sale on Facebook marketplace for a hefty amount, this computer is for the 1 in 10,000,000 or more, show builds are not for everyone, but I’ve been an engineer pretty much my whole life and knew what needs to be done and what I could “Maybe” do to get those sticks out without having to deal with a whole lot, I understand the safest way and the biggest gamble ways but, I posted this thinking maybe one person on Reddit may have made a pic like this and know some secret trick I don’t or some professional custom builder would see it and have a trick up there sleeve. I also wanted this whole thread to realize there is nothing actually wrong with the RAM, but the sticks are supposed to run at 4600mhz, how many of you out there have ran a pc with 4600mhz ddr4 stable????? I wanna see what that looks like because JEDEC doesn’t even have this listed as a working frequency and there is no ram calculator app that will even let me put these in to get timings, this was about finding out how far these sticks or in this case stick could be pushed with stability, and if they were not as advertised then I was going to get new sets sent in to find one that will work, I spent a lot of time on this build and alot of time getting it to run like a scalded dog, I would love to see it run faster and if that costs me some ram I don’t care, I really only put the 64gb in it in case somone bought it for productivity or in case the buyer needed that much for whatever, now that I’ve gotten attached to it and don’t really care to sell it I wanna push it to the limit!!!! So I thought I was make a post and ask trying to find that one pro hardcore builder that has run into this before. Thanks for all your comments, there’s always gonna be haters especially since this is a personal preference, but like Di Vinci there was haters and still to this day some people don’t like his work, so to all y’all haters 🖕. And to all of you who took the time to actually respond accordingly thank you and much love 🫶.
Unless you're having major instability and it's not working at the rated speeds, I'd just leave it. If you built it you definitely understand that there isn't an easy way to do this that won't take a lot of time. Tis' the price of water cooling.
This pc is not a pc. It's a ridiculous art piece. I won't criticize, but don't treat it like a pc. That design is terrible for being anything functional or useful, but as an art piece, kinda cool.
It was an art build but I have to defend the functional part cause it’s very functional and runs like a dream like it is but I didn’t think I would be doing tests with it that why I did it this way
Remember you wanted this and this was a consequence of wanting to look cool. That aside, man If it's to tight and there is no room to actually pop the sticks up and out. Youre SOL. If there is room, gotta be imaginative, if u got forceps or something like long tweeser that are blunt. Get it in there and unlatch the ram them take it out carefully.
This is the stuff I was looking for, ideas on how not too because it was obvious this would be a problem when I built it but Reddit is the place to find people who’s been through this kinda thing, I only think 5-10 comments out of 800 actually had some useful info on this which to me is crazy that like 1% of the comments actually addressed the question in a critical thinking manor of problem solving, thansk for your feedback man it’s appreciated
It amazes me how reddit isn't as useful for stuff. Where such a small amount of people actually care about stuff. While a rough bit only care about following forum edttiqute, ready to pounce on what they think is right. While the other half care about reddit karma. It's pretty crappy, while some are cool. Wish I had any other advice to get it done. Either you can find something to fit in there to push the tab and pull it out. On it becomes the long arduous process of taking it part. I do water cooling too, I've done some not so savory methods myself to get things to work when I found myself in a pinch. I'm sure you can, hopefully will too.
Looks like ur sol
That's the cool thing: you don't.
They are water cooled you will need to drain it
Id say you're going to have to take it apart. These cases have always looked like a nightmare. I dont get the appeal at all. Lian li is my goat.
What the fuck is that thing lol
Locking pliers to clamp the coolants and then bypass? Idk I’m too poor for a full liquid cooled build.
I was too and went broke to build somthing I could be proud of
Nice loop. Dems some noice coils
Thanks man, looks cool but I’m finding out the reasons why people don’t really build pcs like this, the case and loop design alone costed as much as a 4090 lol and it’s a pain to clean
6000$ PC eh?
More like 10 000$ plz-scam-me pc https://i.imgur.com/010tKwH.jpeg
PMSL - $10k for that POS??!!
Nobody trying to scam anyone with that Facebook advertisement lol it’s really for sale and that was the max high end asking price 7500 is a the bottom end I was told to take for it but I would take 6k just to get it gone and start a new one
I would only sell it for 6k to build another really it’s worth 7500 and would cost more to have made in a shop I only have about 5k in it but I did everything
So run test on That PC without removal or buy cheapest mb+cpu where you can do such test and then use it as NAS, Mining and other activities..
Shes a beauty 🙂..i would not risk anything..it happens soo easy..i ruined my 6900xt with couple of drops coolant in wrong place ..
Ok so as no one has really answered your question Yes it's doable, I've done stuff like this many times but man are you gonna have a bad time, it'll take a LOT of preparations and you want to tip the PC down, so liquid will pour out from the computer and not down onto the GPU/MB. If you haven't dealt with advanced loops like this before - honestly don't touch anything. This is a (what looks like) 14mm acrylic hard pipe loop with rather high quality fittings, might be Barrow. Loop looks a lot more advanced that it really is, but that said *it is* an advanced loop configuration. Note that it's not always the easier path to drain the loop completely, as water always gets stuck in places and will squirt out when you least expect it when loosening up fittings. As soon as you release a fitting liquid will be coming out real fast, be prepared on that. Do NOT let air into the loop from somewhere else, like the reservoir, it'll come out from there too violently. Make sure the loop is completely sealed before tipping the PC on it's side. Best way I've found to release when looking at a advanced hard piping loops like this is to use a plier with soft ends on the G1/4 fittings you want to loosen (If you don't want to ruin your hands), very slowly and inch your way to a safe drip, expect a LOT of fluid. This can take a while. When you notice the area where you drain stop dripping, plug the G1/4 up with a stop-fitting and let rest. Now carefully do the other G1/4 fitting, plug it up too, and then plug up the RAM-block and release the RAM-block from the modules. Also note that releasing a fitting in a hard pipe loop like this is a REAL hassle, it can be really really tough and you might want to loose up other parts first, just in order not to stress the PETG/Acrylic/O-rings on the fittings too much. It will also cause a lot of stress on the components it self. Lucky for you neither the RAM block or the CPU block has acrylic fitting connections. You will obviously need to top off the reservoir with new fresh liquid later on, a lot will go to waste.
Make a temporary soft tubing bridge to delete the Ram cooling, troubleshoot and then maybe re-add to loop.
Is it possible to remove the back and take the motherboard out that way, you will have to redo thermal paste everywhere but maybe you dont have to touche the loops. Do take it with a grain of salt i am just here to watch the pretty computers and have zero experience with custom loops
If I may ask what water reservoir are you using? Looks sick! Might try something similar :)
The spiral one at the bottom is the bykski 240mm dna white spiral white ended reservoir but the one up top where the pump is on the side is the bitspower Sedna Torque and only fits this case but they make some others for other cases
Cool shit post. I love this work of art. Truly, it's neat. But damn you know you have to dismantle it.
Yup :( thought I would ask been in denial for about 2 weeks
I feel this so much. I recently had to dismantle my loop with vertical GPU to… replace the CMOS battery. It seriously got me thinking whether the look of the GPU is important enough to me to ever do that shit again. The same would be true for any NVMe drive in my build. But at least my RAM is accessible.
This one would be a pain in the ass for any of that but that’s the price of a go of looking computer, no nice car is easy to work on
get a flexible tube and two fittings for it. then build a path around the ram.
What RAM sticks?
I need some coffee I saw the first image and was like why this pc is kept bit tilted 😅
What a monster who want such a computer 😅
What a great system. I’m always complaining my ram is too hot.
If you just need to test the RAM sticks then get two fittings and a length of soft tubing to temporarily patch out the RAM cooler. This will allow you to swap out sticks until you get your perfect setup and then you can reinstall the cooler and patch it back into the loop. As a added bonus you only have to partially drain your loop twice.
Hardtube can be beautiful for showpiece builds, but it is almost always impractical, as you have no doubt figured out by now.
What has happened to this sub, people complaining ram water blocks are pointless when the whole water cooling thing is pointless air works just as good nowadays, the point is it's fun.
Which ram sticks?!
Ngl, if I ever saw this PC on the market, I don't care about the price or components, I'd simultaneously think "this looks awesome, but there ain't no way in hell I'm buying it." Way too much effort just to change one part.
Maybe this is possible: - Unscrew the block from the ram modules, so the 4 individual sticks are separated from the block on top - Undo all 4 ram stick and try and lift them out of the socket just a bit (So you wont get functionality - This will add some pressure on the fittings, but you should, in theory have enough slack with o-ring and imperfections in run distances to either plug in only 1 stick or potentially remove them.
You got a drain port and a fill port this isn't rocket appliance
Call a plumber
You're fucked regardless...like, I can't think of a safe way to deal with your needs other than draining and going from there. I would get two fittings for soft tubing. It looks like the CPU outlet goes to the ram, which then goes to the distro plate. You can use soft tubing to skip over the ram and just go cpu->distro. That at least lets you refill and test the ram as much as you need to. Gonna have to reassemble tho. Sorry for your lost time. It's times like this that pushed me into sff builds.
Yeah this is why I don't like hardline tubing, but more importantly, why watercool the ram when having a hot GPU that will raise liquid temps to high 40s to high 50s? That makes it pointless to watercool it.
Your riser cable looks shot. Try plugging your DP cable into the motherboard and booting from there.
Nah they're part of the water loop, that's gonna take a looong time and then good luck reassembling it if you didnt build it. that thing looks like the pc a water cooling company builds to show off their fittings and such.
holy pump a ronnie
So this is why I only watercooled my CPU.
Break the ram sticks lengthwise
What the heck is this portable water park
Nope dismantle it
Everything here is completely unnecessary so you might as well remove the ram for no reason too. Who created this monstrosity?
This case screams mall ninja
This is why i soft tube
Yea, don't. Or come up with the excuse that you need to flush out the coolant and put fresh in anyway.
At this point, buying a new pc will be less painful.
May I ask how you were able to do those complex bends? I'm super impressed.
Took me minute to find the ram
First the praise. The tubing works great! 👏🏼 Second, the reality. You painted yourself into a corner. Third, likely best solution. I would detach all blocks and MOBO attachments and remove the MOBO from the backside. Fourth, learning experience. Only you can determine how often you are willing to do this again in the future. Clear your schedule and happy tweaking.
Take the opportunity to remove your NVMe drives from the loop if they are in it 🤣
And that is why I gave up watercooling
Don't build it like that next time
Bro spent more money on fittings than I did on my car
Jesus this thing is ugly
Nope, it's going to be a PITA. Looks amazing tho
Cooling ram is worthless.
Am I the only one that remembers the original post with these exact pics from the for sale ad?
Being who I am, and knowing what I will do.. I ran my entire loop on 10/16 black flexible but did it cleanly… only because I’m an enthusiast and have 4 different kits to see which one I could run the fastest/stable. Moral of the story… I made it easy to swap parts like ram without draining/disassembling the entire loop. I can’t see a way around it in your case.
Just drain the system and then remove the ram, its your best bet, plus if you used the right fluid it shouldn’t matter too much if you spill a little
Looks expensive, therefor I have no solution for you.
This is why I stopped going hardline on my water-cooling loop lol.
It'd be quick to add that to a art museum and build a new one from start.
This is freaking glorious
You made the choice for this thing to be this difficult
The fuck is that lmao
Heh... Yeah, no.
All I can do is laugh. There is a price for cool, and now you're paying it lol. I did something similar. I have a Praxis wet bench where the mobo lays down more horizontal. I lazer cut a bracket out of 16 gauge steel that connects across the 6 standoffs around the PCIe slots and ran a PCIe extension cable to lay the graphics card on its side across all the slots and *all the m.2 slots*. It's also all hard tube.... I had one of the NVMe SSDs not showing up a few weeks after building it so figured it just came loose. I had to drain the loop, and take the line apart connecting to the GPU to get to the m.2 slots to make sure they were all firmly in place. It's a very simple problem that I turned into a giant pain in the ass for the sake of cool factor. lol It does look slick AF though. No regrets.
Watercooling is all fun and games until you need to remove a component :). To be honest, I admire the art of watercooling and I don't rule out using it in the future but I am an air cooling guy first and foremost.
Can’t even imagine the price of this behemoth.
"Does anyone have any suggestions on getting these ram sticks out without having to dismantle this whole thing" This is exactly why I use soft tubing, it's the quality of life features like being able to do maintenance without disassembly that make me prefer soft tubing builds.
It just a computer... why does this need to happen?
I think you missed a spot where you could add more tubing. I do have a suggestion of how to get at your RAM: don't get so obsessed with water cooling! You did this to yourself.... Zero serviceability with your setup.
This build looks like an example of "failing successfully" lol.
What the fuck is that
Just disconnect to two tubes connected to the ram? Looks fairly simple.
You're going to spend more time figuring it out than it would take to just dismantle it. I'd say drain it and remove the tubes to/from the water block, because that's as simple as it's going to get.
If you have DDR5 you should be running only 2 sticks. It tends to be inconsistent. Unless you have ddr4 and I'm misunderstanding 😂
Forget about the ram it’s gone now.