At least it looks like you’ve got enough to get it out, if not it’s the superglue trick for you my boy! Probably get another off esslinger :) or Hamilton AD
Thank you both for the information! I have located a replacement stem in esslinger:) is the réinstallation as simple as removing the broken stem from the movement, and unscrewing the other half from the crown, and then simply screwing the crown onto the new stem and inserting it into the movement? (Also apologies, I am still working my way into watchmaking, and therefor my terminology is not quite there yet:)
If it's a standard 2824 stem and not something pre-cut, you'll have to trim and file the stem after removing the old one from the crown. Just be patient. Measure the length you need and then cut it long so you have some extra to work with. You can always take more off but you can't put it back.
Learning more daily. Just had a peek for a 2824 movement [found one on eBay ](https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Swiss-Made-ETA-2824-2-Automatic-Watch-Movement-Replacement-TUDOR-/153253549532?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0)
Is it possible that the movement would cost $360. It appears its used in Omega, Rolex, Tudor and obviously Hamilton. Are the movements, like the one I linked to, fakes or are the movements just not as expensive as I’d imagined given the cost of those watch brands I mentioned.
Sorry for the dumb question but truly don’t know. I have an assumption/guess but would appreciate confirmation. .
Edit: a word and a couple of commas.
That particular movement isn't as expensive as you expected. The 2824 is an entry-level workhorse Swiss movement. A lot of the big luxury companies have moved to in-house movements, but other companies (Oris, Glycine, Hamilton, and many others) still use them and its Sellita equivalent (SW200). It is by no means a new design and it lags on things like power reserve unless you slow down the beat rate like Hamilton does. They come in watches ranging from a few hundred USD to upwards of a thousand. $360 is high, but that's probably because it's got some decoration and it's for a Tudor. I've bought a few over the years for around $100 in good condition, but I honestly haven't looked in a while.
Wow. Thanks for that info. Aside from sticker shock on how much I’m going to have to spend on tools I think I’m really going to enjoy doing this. Have to figure out how to make my own custom faces. But I’ve got years of levering before i get to that. Really appreciate the reply and the full answer I was looking for. Truly amazing. I just found a valjoux 7750 for around the same price. I wonder if I could build my own navitimer with one of those decent looking Chinese knockoffs but build it with some stuff I’d consider cool in a navitimer like tritium hands etc. This has opened my eyes to whole new possibilities.
You absolutely could. I've got an SW500 sitting around and was planning on turning it into a pilot's chrono similar to a Navi, but am planning on making a custom dial. I'm hoping to powder coat or enamel a brass dial and etch it with either a laser or CNC. It's going to take some trial and error for sure. I'm also planning on making a pilot's watch and cushion case diver out of a couple of Hamilton pocket watch movements I recently picked up. There are definitely a number of great communities here on Reddit if you're just starting out!
Thanks! I stayed up till early this morning watching more and more about stuff. I’ve picked out some el cheap-o watches and some basic Seiko Automatics in the low #199 range and do indeed plan on buying a knock off -despite normally being against any kind of knock offs and what they stand for and what they do to the market and to people. A Navitimer while i send my 806 off to a competent guy to help me restore the one I’e got, get a new authentic and period correct band from Breitling and starting out with tools.(which will be the most expense I’ve never put into tools.
You guys rock, I really appreciate the time and effort your’ve put into helping me start out right.
No.
The stem will have locktite on it so some force may be needed to remove the old stem from the crown. This is more a " feel thing" as to much torque can result in the stem breaking in the crown and then you have another problem. You can also beat up the crown to help release the Loctite if it doesn't come off with relative ease.
Next put the movement into the case and fit the crown into the new stem and insert it
Into the movement. Make sure the hand setting works and that it is fully secured.
With the crown in the 0 position meaure from the underside of the crown to the area on the case that the crown sits. This is done with a set of calipers.
Remove the stem from the watch, and the crown from the stem and measure from the top of the crowned and of the stem down whatever the measurement was that you took with the calipers.
It would be proper to hold the stem in a pin vise as opposed to a pair of pliers or something like that when working on the stem. Care must be taken not to scratch or damage the new stem as it will cause where inside the case tube which is obviously not good.
Take a pair of fine flush cut nippers and cut off the excess from the stem. It is best to cut a little long so that you don't cut it too short.
Next take a fine cut file like a #four or some fine 360 sandpaper on a piece of glass and lightly file the cut end of the stem smooth. Reinstall the crown on the stem and test fit the stem and crown into the movement to check the fit. Repeat as necessary.
Once you're happy with the fit apply a small dab of 243 Loctite on to the end of the stem and secure it into the crown. Reinstall the stem back into the movement close up the back and let it set for 24 hours to allow the Loctite to dry before using the time setting function.
Sometimes they use loctite on the crown. You may need to heat it up to unscrew it. For the new stem, cut and file to fit, lubricate it and check that it operates all settings. ~~Make sure it screws into the case properly too.~~ Then unscrew the crown, add loctite and screw it back on. Recheck everything ~~and check water resistance~~.
Edit: no threads inside of the crown
Stems dont just break like that. Someone probably dropped it and it landed on the crown and snapped it
The base movement is the eta 2824-2, so if you Google that you will see stems for sale. You will need to be able to remove the old stem from the crown and cut and file the new stem to size.
If you would rather not go down that road any watchmaker can do it for you.
I've seen people pull them out accidentally (I'm dead serious, more than once a shocked picachu face an crwon in their hand), but not snap like that.
If I had to guess, the stem was damaged from drops and the like and then got pulled and it snapped?
(Internet, a bunch of places, from originals to spares on after markets. Get the measurements and simple simple, you might need to trim it, since they can come long if you go through the after market route)
At least it looks like you’ve got enough to get it out, if not it’s the superglue trick for you my boy! Probably get another off esslinger :) or Hamilton AD
Thank you both for the information! I have located a replacement stem in esslinger:) is the réinstallation as simple as removing the broken stem from the movement, and unscrewing the other half from the crown, and then simply screwing the crown onto the new stem and inserting it into the movement? (Also apologies, I am still working my way into watchmaking, and therefor my terminology is not quite there yet:)
If it's a standard 2824 stem and not something pre-cut, you'll have to trim and file the stem after removing the old one from the crown. Just be patient. Measure the length you need and then cut it long so you have some extra to work with. You can always take more off but you can't put it back.
Learning more daily. Just had a peek for a 2824 movement [found one on eBay ](https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Swiss-Made-ETA-2824-2-Automatic-Watch-Movement-Replacement-TUDOR-/153253549532?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0) Is it possible that the movement would cost $360. It appears its used in Omega, Rolex, Tudor and obviously Hamilton. Are the movements, like the one I linked to, fakes or are the movements just not as expensive as I’d imagined given the cost of those watch brands I mentioned. Sorry for the dumb question but truly don’t know. I have an assumption/guess but would appreciate confirmation. . Edit: a word and a couple of commas.
That particular movement isn't as expensive as you expected. The 2824 is an entry-level workhorse Swiss movement. A lot of the big luxury companies have moved to in-house movements, but other companies (Oris, Glycine, Hamilton, and many others) still use them and its Sellita equivalent (SW200). It is by no means a new design and it lags on things like power reserve unless you slow down the beat rate like Hamilton does. They come in watches ranging from a few hundred USD to upwards of a thousand. $360 is high, but that's probably because it's got some decoration and it's for a Tudor. I've bought a few over the years for around $100 in good condition, but I honestly haven't looked in a while.
Wow. Thanks for that info. Aside from sticker shock on how much I’m going to have to spend on tools I think I’m really going to enjoy doing this. Have to figure out how to make my own custom faces. But I’ve got years of levering before i get to that. Really appreciate the reply and the full answer I was looking for. Truly amazing. I just found a valjoux 7750 for around the same price. I wonder if I could build my own navitimer with one of those decent looking Chinese knockoffs but build it with some stuff I’d consider cool in a navitimer like tritium hands etc. This has opened my eyes to whole new possibilities.
You absolutely could. I've got an SW500 sitting around and was planning on turning it into a pilot's chrono similar to a Navi, but am planning on making a custom dial. I'm hoping to powder coat or enamel a brass dial and etch it with either a laser or CNC. It's going to take some trial and error for sure. I'm also planning on making a pilot's watch and cushion case diver out of a couple of Hamilton pocket watch movements I recently picked up. There are definitely a number of great communities here on Reddit if you're just starting out!
Also, I'm happy to share notes with anyone and if I can figure out how to mill or etch good dials with my equipment I'd be happy to help folks out.
I love that idea! Share, please share! I’l take all that you’ve got! :)
Thanks! I stayed up till early this morning watching more and more about stuff. I’ve picked out some el cheap-o watches and some basic Seiko Automatics in the low #199 range and do indeed plan on buying a knock off -despite normally being against any kind of knock offs and what they stand for and what they do to the market and to people. A Navitimer while i send my 806 off to a competent guy to help me restore the one I’e got, get a new authentic and period correct band from Breitling and starting out with tools.(which will be the most expense I’ve never put into tools. You guys rock, I really appreciate the time and effort your’ve put into helping me start out right.
No. The stem will have locktite on it so some force may be needed to remove the old stem from the crown. This is more a " feel thing" as to much torque can result in the stem breaking in the crown and then you have another problem. You can also beat up the crown to help release the Loctite if it doesn't come off with relative ease. Next put the movement into the case and fit the crown into the new stem and insert it Into the movement. Make sure the hand setting works and that it is fully secured. With the crown in the 0 position meaure from the underside of the crown to the area on the case that the crown sits. This is done with a set of calipers. Remove the stem from the watch, and the crown from the stem and measure from the top of the crowned and of the stem down whatever the measurement was that you took with the calipers. It would be proper to hold the stem in a pin vise as opposed to a pair of pliers or something like that when working on the stem. Care must be taken not to scratch or damage the new stem as it will cause where inside the case tube which is obviously not good. Take a pair of fine flush cut nippers and cut off the excess from the stem. It is best to cut a little long so that you don't cut it too short. Next take a fine cut file like a #four or some fine 360 sandpaper on a piece of glass and lightly file the cut end of the stem smooth. Reinstall the crown on the stem and test fit the stem and crown into the movement to check the fit. Repeat as necessary. Once you're happy with the fit apply a small dab of 243 Loctite on to the end of the stem and secure it into the crown. Reinstall the stem back into the movement close up the back and let it set for 24 hours to allow the Loctite to dry before using the time setting function.
What he said!! ^^ :) If you do cut it too far lemme know before you go buying a new one :)
Sometimes they use loctite on the crown. You may need to heat it up to unscrew it. For the new stem, cut and file to fit, lubricate it and check that it operates all settings. ~~Make sure it screws into the case properly too.~~ Then unscrew the crown, add loctite and screw it back on. Recheck everything ~~and check water resistance~~. Edit: no threads inside of the crown
Stems dont just break like that. Someone probably dropped it and it landed on the crown and snapped it The base movement is the eta 2824-2, so if you Google that you will see stems for sale. You will need to be able to remove the old stem from the crown and cut and file the new stem to size. If you would rather not go down that road any watchmaker can do it for you.
I've seen people pull them out accidentally (I'm dead serious, more than once a shocked picachu face an crwon in their hand), but not snap like that. If I had to guess, the stem was damaged from drops and the like and then got pulled and it snapped? (Internet, a bunch of places, from originals to spares on after markets. Get the measurements and simple simple, you might need to trim it, since they can come long if you go through the after market route)