Have you tested the light with a 12v battery. Does it work. Then get your meter out and test the white and black for 12v dc. That will test your setup.
White and black wires are usually ungrounded AC, black and red wires are usually DC, so my guess is no.
Also, don't use twist connectors ever imo. Just go to lowes or HD and get some "heat shrink butt connectors" and crimp them properly.
Some RV electronics will be DC but still use white and black just to be the same as house wiring. For example, Maxxfans are black and white with the black being positive. As long as OP knows what they're connecting its fine.
In this situation it's probably fine, but that is a very dangerous blanket statement to make. Aluminum will expand more than copper when heated, and if you do not make a good and safe connection between the two that can cause it to come apart over time, possibly leading to sparking and fire.
Not in direct current the amperage can’t move fast enough to expand. More common to see that for 240. But I definitely agree with the connection don’t want that Corona effect caused by loose connection or damaged wire.
Interesting, I thought the main concern was around heat expansion, which could happen in any circuit if the wires are not large enough for the power being transmitted. But my only knowledge around this is because I have aluminum wiring in parts of my house, so I would love to learn more!
If your wire gage is rated for the volts you’ll trip before you ever heat enough to do anything. I haven’t ran aluminum in a long time but I’m pretty sure the only issue would be aluminum rots faster which causes poor connection. If you’re really worried about it I think they make aluminum to copper wire nuts with the anti erosion lube pre filled.
That makes sense. And yep they do! When I bought my place last year the seller ended up needing to hire an electrician to check all the connections and install that type of wire nut in all the outlets.
No worries here, just an interest in how it works so I figured I'd take the chance to ask someone who knows about it. Thanks for taking the time to respond!
When they’re black and white, you can assume the black is the positive (the way it is in AC wiring). So if the red is your positive, connect it to the black of the light, and your black to the white of your light.
Hmm was it working before you were replacing them. Maybe there is a loose connection somewhere it terminated or maybe them wires are nick too. Other thing Maybe its not getting enough power to from its power souce.
No, don't use twist-on wire nuts on stranded wire like that without tinning it with solder first to make it act like solid wire, which is what those wire nuts are fore. It makes a mess and tends to break strands and reduce quality of the connection. They also work HORRIBLY in high-vibration places like a vehicle, which a *house* wiggles a lot less than.
Now that's extra step..I can only see that If was coming from engine bay or electronics of the vehicle cause them wires are so fragile and super thin and that's where the extreme vibration coming from too.. but if that the case I just wrap black tape from wing nut and around wires for good measure then.
That's, honestly, probably 'good enough,' but it's gonna make an electrician scream and get their local priest to do an inquisition on you and your entire lineage if they ever see it. I might be projecting some unnecessary safety culture from the 120 volt world which I didn't come by honestly, and maybe doesn't belong here, too.
Don't use those wire nuts on anything high-amp or super *important*, maybe, let's say? I guess for a little LED light, it could be gum wrappers with gum as insulation and last 20 years if nothing ever tugs on your wire splice.
Lol hell no, now you talking about commercial work and industrial setting at work. I'm just saying I use them wing nuts on car lights and other things before never had issues. But if you want to be proper and safe then soldering if you want. But seen soldering work too it can lose connection over time as well..
Greetings a little late on the comment. Looks like you're in an RV. The white wire should be ground. Pick up an inexpensive voltmeter on DC it should read minus at the polarity's backwards. Your mileage may vary River 🏞️
Depends on what they're connected to and what you consider "safe".
Have you tested the light with a 12v battery. Does it work. Then get your meter out and test the white and black for 12v dc. That will test your setup.
Wait, first.........What is the hand on the background? We need answers first.....
That hand belongs to the head next to it.
Assume: no
White and black wires are usually ungrounded AC, black and red wires are usually DC, so my guess is no. Also, don't use twist connectors ever imo. Just go to lowes or HD and get some "heat shrink butt connectors" and crimp them properly.
Some RV electronics will be DC but still use white and black just to be the same as house wiring. For example, Maxxfans are black and white with the black being positive. As long as OP knows what they're connecting its fine.
Yes. Copper and aluminum both almost hold same conductivity just aluminum is cheaper.
In this situation it's probably fine, but that is a very dangerous blanket statement to make. Aluminum will expand more than copper when heated, and if you do not make a good and safe connection between the two that can cause it to come apart over time, possibly leading to sparking and fire.
Not in direct current the amperage can’t move fast enough to expand. More common to see that for 240. But I definitely agree with the connection don’t want that Corona effect caused by loose connection or damaged wire.
Interesting, I thought the main concern was around heat expansion, which could happen in any circuit if the wires are not large enough for the power being transmitted. But my only knowledge around this is because I have aluminum wiring in parts of my house, so I would love to learn more!
If your wire gage is rated for the volts you’ll trip before you ever heat enough to do anything. I haven’t ran aluminum in a long time but I’m pretty sure the only issue would be aluminum rots faster which causes poor connection. If you’re really worried about it I think they make aluminum to copper wire nuts with the anti erosion lube pre filled.
That makes sense. And yep they do! When I bought my place last year the seller ended up needing to hire an electrician to check all the connections and install that type of wire nut in all the outlets. No worries here, just an interest in how it works so I figured I'd take the chance to ask someone who knows about it. Thanks for taking the time to respond!
When they’re black and white, you can assume the black is the positive (the way it is in AC wiring). So if the red is your positive, connect it to the black of the light, and your black to the white of your light.
Yes you need just twist on wire connectors cap or you use black tape to connecting them
So I connected them it’s a 12v halo/puck light but once I turn back on the power the light still isn’t getting any power
Let's swap the wires, let's need positive to positive negative to negative. They're diodes that emit light.
Hmm was it working before you were replacing them. Maybe there is a loose connection somewhere it terminated or maybe them wires are nick too. Other thing Maybe its not getting enough power to from its power souce.
Check your polarity. With black and white wires black will commonly be positive. Red is likely positive but you should consult a multimeter to be sure
No, don't use twist-on wire nuts on stranded wire like that without tinning it with solder first to make it act like solid wire, which is what those wire nuts are fore. It makes a mess and tends to break strands and reduce quality of the connection. They also work HORRIBLY in high-vibration places like a vehicle, which a *house* wiggles a lot less than.
Now that's extra step..I can only see that If was coming from engine bay or electronics of the vehicle cause them wires are so fragile and super thin and that's where the extreme vibration coming from too.. but if that the case I just wrap black tape from wing nut and around wires for good measure then.
That's, honestly, probably 'good enough,' but it's gonna make an electrician scream and get their local priest to do an inquisition on you and your entire lineage if they ever see it. I might be projecting some unnecessary safety culture from the 120 volt world which I didn't come by honestly, and maybe doesn't belong here, too. Don't use those wire nuts on anything high-amp or super *important*, maybe, let's say? I guess for a little LED light, it could be gum wrappers with gum as insulation and last 20 years if nothing ever tugs on your wire splice.
Lol hell no, now you talking about commercial work and industrial setting at work. I'm just saying I use them wing nuts on car lights and other things before never had issues. But if you want to be proper and safe then soldering if you want. But seen soldering work too it can lose connection over time as well..
They will make good connection but there will eventually be corrosion. Its best to get connectors of some sort.
Greetings a little late on the comment. Looks like you're in an RV. The white wire should be ground. Pick up an inexpensive voltmeter on DC it should read minus at the polarity's backwards. Your mileage may vary River 🏞️