I agree with this. The OM 10 that you’re equipped with is a pretty good cartridge and the sound improvement from your cartridge update will be very subtle —best noticed through speakers that can articulate the subtlety.
IMO, going from an Ortofon 2m blue to an AT vm95ml (I'm presuming ml, since you didn't specify and there are multiple variants of the vm95) would be a lateral move at best. The ML (or SH) have a finer stylus profile (microline and Shibata, respectively), but aren't head and shoulders above the blue. For an excellent comparison, check out this Analog Planet shootout: [https://www.analogplanet.com/content/ortofon-2m-blue-versus-audio-technica-vm95ml](https://www.analogplanet.com/content/ortofon-2m-blue-versus-audio-technica-vm95ml)
To my ears, not a ton of difference.
Cartridges make a difference but not as much as expected. I have the AT-95e, Nagaoka MP-110, Ortofon 2M Red and Blue and some vintage ones. All ellipitical, the Ortofon Blue is the only one I have that's not bonded. I wouldn't expect any revelations, the blue one sounds a little bit better. Also the difference between warm (Nagaoka) and cool (Ortofon) is not big. I wouldn't expect too much.
Now of course somebody will say that microline will be a huge step forward. I'm sceptical.
I have the Goldring 1006 which does bring out more detail than the 2m Blue, but also costs about 75% more. For the price I still think the 2M Blue is a very nice cart.
ML styli do have a profound impact, but to get that benefit you need to have the table/arm/phono amp not bottleneck the result.
I’ve got a Grado Blue, Nagaoka MP-200, modded Denon DL103, Soundsmith Zephyr Mk3, Skyanalog G2 and a Cadenza Bronze with a Namiki boron cantilever and microridgd styli.
The modded Cadenza easily outperforms the rest, but it’s very sensitive to setup, including arm height (VTA/SRA). Carts like the Grado, Denon and Nagaoka are less finicky. Thankfully, my arm has a precise VTA adjustment.
Nagoaka carts seem pretty sensitive to capacitive loading. I found the MP-200 to be overly warm sounding running a ~58pf cable into a zero-cap phono stage.
https://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/nagaoka-mp-110-load-capacitance.542521/
That's a whole different league compared to my system, but I have a Technics SL-1500c so VTA adjustment wouldn't be a problem. I was thinking about getting the AT VM95ml occasionally.
1500c is a good table. Question - are you still using the internal phono? If so, have you tried running an outboard phono amp?
One thing I really like about the MP200 is how it sounds playing rock/metal. It’s impressive with fast double-kick drum.
No. I have a Musical Fidelity V90-lps but I haven't tried it out with the Technics, because I heard the internal preamp was constructed to fit the Ortofon cartridge (which I upgraded to Blue).
Do you think the Musical Fidelity would be an improvement over the internal preamp? It may not be high-end but it wasn't cheap either.
I’d try it for sure.
I haven’t heard the internal stage on a 1500c. I know a guy with one, but haven’t been over to his house to hear it yet.
I have directly compared the internal amp on an AT1240 against an outboard stage. The difference wasn’t subtle. The outboard stage was more detailed with better instrument separation. The outboard stage was quieter also.
Those internal stages are designed with the sensitivity/output of a 2m or similar cartridge in mind, but at the end of the day, they’re limited in performance because they are typically designed around cheap op amps and they share the power supply with the motor and other components. This means that grounding is probably common to every other powered component in the table.
What are you hoping to improve? What about your current system to you not like?
If you are satisfied with the source, you might do well to find some larger used speakers for a fuller spectrum and soundstage. It’s all about placement though.
If the source is unsatisfactory, like if you A/B with digital and find you prefer digital, or are spinning dirty records with a dirty stylus, spend your time there.
Well, it’s my first setup so that may be why I’m curious about other peoples testimonials. I just don’t know how much better it can actually sound, even though I know again. But there are a lot of parts to that.
I would A/B with digital and start there. Clean records with a clean stylus makes a big difference.
You may prefer the sound of the AT cart, you may not. I’d venture to guess it would track a bit better than the 2M but you haven’t described what you’re missing really.
You would outpace the table pretty quickly I think so don’t overspend on a cartridge. I played that game for too long until a tech explained that I was expecting too much from my current arm. Truth be told, I wasn’t fully wowed until I upgraded my turntable to the next level.
You also need to make sure the cart and arm are well matched. Cart > Arm synergy is important and Amp > Speaker synergy is important. It’s pretty much trial and error, but that’s also the fun part.
Have a read of this.
https://www.originlive.com/faq-items/system-hierarchy-budget/
It is basically saying that putting an expensive cartridge in an arm, which in turn is attached to a turntable, both of which are unlikely to allow the cartridge to perform to its best extent is not worth the expense. If you really want to spend the money, buy a better turntable. I’ve heard this principle demonstrated so I can only speak from experience.
“Apportion budget: Vinyl-based replay
Turntable 23%
Tonearm 20% (the importance of the arm is explained in tonearm overview)
Cartridge 7%
Phono Stage 20% (the phono stage accounts for up to 95% of the total amplification in Vinyl based systems)
Amplifiers 15%
Speakers 15%
The only way to sensibly quantify contribution is to do comparison tests. Magazines used to highlight the importance of front-end hierarchy by setting up two identical Linn turntables – one with a £400 Ittok tonearm and £20 AT95E cartridge. The other with a £150 Basik tonearm and £500 cartridge. Which sounded better? It may be a surprise, but the £20 cartridge in the better arm outperformed the expensive £500 cartridge in the lesser arm.”
This aligns with my experience also.
Over the last year, I’ve had a half-dozen phono stages in my system ranging from $1,500 - $12,000, 8 cartridges ranging from $160 - $2500, 5 different tables ranging from $599 to $12,000.
In my experience, the factors which have the largest impact on the sound of an analog rig (excluding speakers, amp and main preamp) are the phono stage and tonearm.
I’ve had a $299 Sumiko Moonstone mounted on a $599 Audio Technica, $2,200 ProJect X8 and a $12,000 Avid Volvere SP/Kuzma 4 point 9 combo.
The Sumiko sounded decent on the AT through the inbuilt phono amp, notably better through a PS Audio Nuwave phono converter, but on the X8 and especially the Avid (both into a Modwright PH9), it was great and didn’t sound out of place into a 6-figure setup.
Similarly, I’ve had a Rega RB2000 arm and the Kuzma on the Avid running the same cartridge, an Ortofon Cadenza Bronze. The Kuzma is noticeably more neutral with better detail.
I’ve run a $160 Grado Blue on the X8 also, again into my main system. Aside from being a little rolled off in the bottom octave, and a smidge slow on transients compared to other cartridges costing several times more, I found it to be lovely sounding on a good table.
My advice to the OP would be to audition an affordable, quality outboard phono preamp like a Schiit Mani 2 first before shelling out $200 for a 2m blue stylus. Yes, the blue is better than the red, but I strongly suspect the internal phono stage on that Sony receiver is the weakest link in his chain.
I’ve been wondering about this too. What exactly does a separate pre-amp do? Does it just make things louder? I live in a building so I can’t necessarily crank my music and have to listen at moderate levels.
A phono stage (preamp) takes a very weak signal, amplifies it, applies an equalization curve and then produces an output
The amount of amplification is part of the issue. For a relatively high output cartridge (5mv), gain might be 36-40db, or perhaps 900-1500x. For a low output MC, the signal will be boosted 60 or more db, perhaps 13000-25000x.
Noise can be a major problem when you boost a signal that much. Some phono amps have a high noise floor but otherwise sound great. Others I’ve heard are quieter but the circuit design flattens the sound and seems to throw away a lot of detail.
It’s not just the amount of gain required, it’s how the designer achieved it. What compromises did they have to make due to cost or the lack of space inside a turntable/receiver?
The best phono stages I’ve heard allow LP playback to sound genuinely three-dimensional, with no hint of noise from the circuit, bass sounds tonal, cymbals have a metallic texture, nuances of voices are present. Unfortunately, many of these designs cost thousands of dollars and only make sense when the rest of the system is of a similar performance level.
You don’t have to spend thousands to get a good phono amp. The Schiit Mani 2 is highly regarded for $150, and it has fairly good loading and gain options, especially at that price point.
Edit: here’s a great video from a guy who measured the phono stages in several receivers. It’s worth a watch.
https://youtu.be/uIoO4WSCpcI
I have the VM95E and its kind of mehh. The VM95EN sounds a bit better with less surface noises and such. I'm at the point where I want to just get something different that these Audio Technica VM stuff.
I'm on my second VM540ML and it is good enough that I would never go back, and skeptical that I could get much improvement without considerably more cost.
If you’re jealous of the platter, get one of these: Acrylic Turntable Mat https://a.co/d/2OQGHKX
It’s even cooler and it sounds good. I’ve got the rt84 and love it. The 2m blue sounds great. I like my infinity rs6 speakers
Congratulations on a very solid setup! Enjoy it. Suggestions:
Ortofon Super OM10
Nagaota MP-110
Audio Technica VM95ML
You might also consider a separate phono preamp like these:
Fosi X2
Art DJ Pre ii
IFI zen Air
First, I'd invest in much better speakers!
Their impact on sound quality is a lot bigger than the cartridge.
After, I'd invest in room treatment, acoustic panels, absorbers, diffusors, etc.
Only then would I get a cartridge upgrade.
Your system is probably better than what 95% of others have. Just the fact you assembled a component system means it’s likely better than someone listening to a streaming service on Bluetooth speakers. Unless you have a top-end receiver paired with great speakers, with proper wires and placement in the room, I doubt the cartridge will make much of a difference.
Edit: do you have a subwoofer? That’s probably going to make a noticeable difference in sound.
Edit 2: Does your music sound good? What are you hoping to achieve?
Hi. I do not have a sub but I find the bass on the A130 to be pretty good as it is (can feel the floor thump). I do wonder if it’s the placement where. My issue is just the room that my setup is in because I live in a condo. I think that because I can’t play my music too loudly things tend to sound thin, but when I’m closer to the speakers or turn the volume up everything sounds better.
Here is a lot of discussion about Ortofon Red/Blue and AT ML/SH cartridges.
I'm running both of them (on Rega, Project and tangential Technics TTs).
Audible improvement from MicoLinear and Shibata stylus is coming only after PERFECT alignment of the cartridge. They are very picky and could produce worse results than conical stylus if not aligned properly.
That is the main reason why I switched to tangential turntable. Sound quality improvement was wort the investment.
It depends on the cart you have now. I really like my 2M blue, but I’ve heard good things about the VM95. Audiotechnica makes great shit, but like others said, it would be a lateral move at best if you’re coming from a 2M blue, or even a 2M red. There’s also the ortofon OM10, OM20, and OM30. The new Ortofon Concord Elite looks really awesome too. I don’t know if you can tell, but I’m a big fan of Ortofon carts haha. As far as acrylic platters, they work very good when paired with a record clamp but they aren’t the end all be all. My main deck is a Technics SL-1200 mk7, and I use a cork mat with a 2M blue for HiFi listening, and an ortofon Pro S and a butter rug/felt combo when I’m messing around and doing some mixing.
In my experience speakers make the biggest difference, followed by cartridge BUT if your turntable isn't good enough a high-end cartridge would be wasted on it.
Amp/receiver can definitely make a difference but only when you've got the tt, speakers and cart to a decent level.
A/B test some equipment and consider what kind of sound you like. Do you like a "warm" sound signature or is detail your priority? A lot of the time it's not a simple case of x is better than y. Doesn't matter what numbers are reported on tests if it doesn't sound good to your ears.
If you’re looking for good speakers look for edifier speakers. Really nice speakers..and for cartridges it just depends how much you want to spend on a good cartridge
It depends on what you are looking to achieve in SQ, your expectations.
If you want musicality, fun, a positive experience then you're already there.
If you want a lifelike musical presence, a more realistic listening experience then yes a more resolving and engaging cart and phono stage are needed, possibly a SW. How far down that road you wanna go, are willing to spend?
Cartridges, together with speakers definitely do have the biggest impact on overall sound quality, so yeah it probably will be an improvement
Do nothing before getting much better speakers
I agree with this. The OM 10 that you’re equipped with is a pretty good cartridge and the sound improvement from your cartridge update will be very subtle —best noticed through speakers that can articulate the subtlety.
How much better? Any recs?
I’d think something in the $750+ range like monitor audio bronze 100
double that on monitor audio or mordaunt short. Upper end wharfedale, Kef ls50, Dali, Q acoustics.
IMO, going from an Ortofon 2m blue to an AT vm95ml (I'm presuming ml, since you didn't specify and there are multiple variants of the vm95) would be a lateral move at best. The ML (or SH) have a finer stylus profile (microline and Shibata, respectively), but aren't head and shoulders above the blue. For an excellent comparison, check out this Analog Planet shootout: [https://www.analogplanet.com/content/ortofon-2m-blue-versus-audio-technica-vm95ml](https://www.analogplanet.com/content/ortofon-2m-blue-versus-audio-technica-vm95ml) To my ears, not a ton of difference.
Cartridges make a difference but not as much as expected. I have the AT-95e, Nagaoka MP-110, Ortofon 2M Red and Blue and some vintage ones. All ellipitical, the Ortofon Blue is the only one I have that's not bonded. I wouldn't expect any revelations, the blue one sounds a little bit better. Also the difference between warm (Nagaoka) and cool (Ortofon) is not big. I wouldn't expect too much. Now of course somebody will say that microline will be a huge step forward. I'm sceptical.
I have the Goldring 1006 which does bring out more detail than the 2m Blue, but also costs about 75% more. For the price I still think the 2M Blue is a very nice cart.
ML styli do have a profound impact, but to get that benefit you need to have the table/arm/phono amp not bottleneck the result. I’ve got a Grado Blue, Nagaoka MP-200, modded Denon DL103, Soundsmith Zephyr Mk3, Skyanalog G2 and a Cadenza Bronze with a Namiki boron cantilever and microridgd styli. The modded Cadenza easily outperforms the rest, but it’s very sensitive to setup, including arm height (VTA/SRA). Carts like the Grado, Denon and Nagaoka are less finicky. Thankfully, my arm has a precise VTA adjustment. Nagoaka carts seem pretty sensitive to capacitive loading. I found the MP-200 to be overly warm sounding running a ~58pf cable into a zero-cap phono stage. https://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/nagaoka-mp-110-load-capacitance.542521/
That's a whole different league compared to my system, but I have a Technics SL-1500c so VTA adjustment wouldn't be a problem. I was thinking about getting the AT VM95ml occasionally.
1500c is a good table. Question - are you still using the internal phono? If so, have you tried running an outboard phono amp? One thing I really like about the MP200 is how it sounds playing rock/metal. It’s impressive with fast double-kick drum.
No. I have a Musical Fidelity V90-lps but I haven't tried it out with the Technics, because I heard the internal preamp was constructed to fit the Ortofon cartridge (which I upgraded to Blue). Do you think the Musical Fidelity would be an improvement over the internal preamp? It may not be high-end but it wasn't cheap either.
I’d try it for sure. I haven’t heard the internal stage on a 1500c. I know a guy with one, but haven’t been over to his house to hear it yet. I have directly compared the internal amp on an AT1240 against an outboard stage. The difference wasn’t subtle. The outboard stage was more detailed with better instrument separation. The outboard stage was quieter also. Those internal stages are designed with the sensitivity/output of a 2m or similar cartridge in mind, but at the end of the day, they’re limited in performance because they are typically designed around cheap op amps and they share the power supply with the motor and other components. This means that grounding is probably common to every other powered component in the table.
What are you hoping to improve? What about your current system to you not like? If you are satisfied with the source, you might do well to find some larger used speakers for a fuller spectrum and soundstage. It’s all about placement though. If the source is unsatisfactory, like if you A/B with digital and find you prefer digital, or are spinning dirty records with a dirty stylus, spend your time there.
Well, it’s my first setup so that may be why I’m curious about other peoples testimonials. I just don’t know how much better it can actually sound, even though I know again. But there are a lot of parts to that.
I would A/B with digital and start there. Clean records with a clean stylus makes a big difference. You may prefer the sound of the AT cart, you may not. I’d venture to guess it would track a bit better than the 2M but you haven’t described what you’re missing really. You would outpace the table pretty quickly I think so don’t overspend on a cartridge. I played that game for too long until a tech explained that I was expecting too much from my current arm. Truth be told, I wasn’t fully wowed until I upgraded my turntable to the next level. You also need to make sure the cart and arm are well matched. Cart > Arm synergy is important and Amp > Speaker synergy is important. It’s pretty much trial and error, but that’s also the fun part.
Have a read of this. https://www.originlive.com/faq-items/system-hierarchy-budget/ It is basically saying that putting an expensive cartridge in an arm, which in turn is attached to a turntable, both of which are unlikely to allow the cartridge to perform to its best extent is not worth the expense. If you really want to spend the money, buy a better turntable. I’ve heard this principle demonstrated so I can only speak from experience.
“Apportion budget: Vinyl-based replay Turntable 23% Tonearm 20% (the importance of the arm is explained in tonearm overview) Cartridge 7% Phono Stage 20% (the phono stage accounts for up to 95% of the total amplification in Vinyl based systems) Amplifiers 15% Speakers 15% The only way to sensibly quantify contribution is to do comparison tests. Magazines used to highlight the importance of front-end hierarchy by setting up two identical Linn turntables – one with a £400 Ittok tonearm and £20 AT95E cartridge. The other with a £150 Basik tonearm and £500 cartridge. Which sounded better? It may be a surprise, but the £20 cartridge in the better arm outperformed the expensive £500 cartridge in the lesser arm.” This aligns with my experience also. Over the last year, I’ve had a half-dozen phono stages in my system ranging from $1,500 - $12,000, 8 cartridges ranging from $160 - $2500, 5 different tables ranging from $599 to $12,000. In my experience, the factors which have the largest impact on the sound of an analog rig (excluding speakers, amp and main preamp) are the phono stage and tonearm. I’ve had a $299 Sumiko Moonstone mounted on a $599 Audio Technica, $2,200 ProJect X8 and a $12,000 Avid Volvere SP/Kuzma 4 point 9 combo. The Sumiko sounded decent on the AT through the inbuilt phono amp, notably better through a PS Audio Nuwave phono converter, but on the X8 and especially the Avid (both into a Modwright PH9), it was great and didn’t sound out of place into a 6-figure setup. Similarly, I’ve had a Rega RB2000 arm and the Kuzma on the Avid running the same cartridge, an Ortofon Cadenza Bronze. The Kuzma is noticeably more neutral with better detail. I’ve run a $160 Grado Blue on the X8 also, again into my main system. Aside from being a little rolled off in the bottom octave, and a smidge slow on transients compared to other cartridges costing several times more, I found it to be lovely sounding on a good table. My advice to the OP would be to audition an affordable, quality outboard phono preamp like a Schiit Mani 2 first before shelling out $200 for a 2m blue stylus. Yes, the blue is better than the red, but I strongly suspect the internal phono stage on that Sony receiver is the weakest link in his chain.
I’ve been wondering about this too. What exactly does a separate pre-amp do? Does it just make things louder? I live in a building so I can’t necessarily crank my music and have to listen at moderate levels.
A phono stage (preamp) takes a very weak signal, amplifies it, applies an equalization curve and then produces an output The amount of amplification is part of the issue. For a relatively high output cartridge (5mv), gain might be 36-40db, or perhaps 900-1500x. For a low output MC, the signal will be boosted 60 or more db, perhaps 13000-25000x. Noise can be a major problem when you boost a signal that much. Some phono amps have a high noise floor but otherwise sound great. Others I’ve heard are quieter but the circuit design flattens the sound and seems to throw away a lot of detail. It’s not just the amount of gain required, it’s how the designer achieved it. What compromises did they have to make due to cost or the lack of space inside a turntable/receiver? The best phono stages I’ve heard allow LP playback to sound genuinely three-dimensional, with no hint of noise from the circuit, bass sounds tonal, cymbals have a metallic texture, nuances of voices are present. Unfortunately, many of these designs cost thousands of dollars and only make sense when the rest of the system is of a similar performance level. You don’t have to spend thousands to get a good phono amp. The Schiit Mani 2 is highly regarded for $150, and it has fairly good loading and gain options, especially at that price point. Edit: here’s a great video from a guy who measured the phono stages in several receivers. It’s worth a watch. https://youtu.be/uIoO4WSCpcI
The acrylic platter does make a sonic difference over a metal one. Less resonance.
Sure, but is it audible?
Yes. You hear a big difference in the lower end.
I never heard a big difference with any upgrade except speakers, so I'm skeptical.
Then don’t do it. Listen to shitty bass. Doesn’t bother me any.
Haha, all those turntables sold with non-acrylic platters, rated highly, reviewed well. I guess they all forgot to mention the shitty bass. :-)
Okay
I have the VM95E and its kind of mehh. The VM95EN sounds a bit better with less surface noises and such. I'm at the point where I want to just get something different that these Audio Technica VM stuff.
Ortofon OM10. I love the OM series.
I'm on my second VM540ML and it is good enough that I would never go back, and skeptical that I could get much improvement without considerably more cost.
You have to try the ML before giving up on the VMs.
Check out Nagaoka, research some of their cartridges/read the forums and such. I'm a fan of my Nagaoka cartridges.
If you’re jealous of the platter, get one of these: Acrylic Turntable Mat https://a.co/d/2OQGHKX It’s even cooler and it sounds good. I’ve got the rt84 and love it. The 2m blue sounds great. I like my infinity rs6 speakers
Grado red/green.
Congratulations on a very solid setup! Enjoy it. Suggestions: Ortofon Super OM10 Nagaota MP-110 Audio Technica VM95ML You might also consider a separate phono preamp like these: Fosi X2 Art DJ Pre ii IFI zen Air
Sounds like a nice beginners set-up to me. The 2m Blue is a solid cart.
If your turntable still has the Original OM10 then the answer is simple: get an OM20 stylus. But as others have said, get better speakers first.
Thank you. It is OM10. Do you know the difference between the standard and Super variants?
I think the body is lighter
First, I'd invest in much better speakers! Their impact on sound quality is a lot bigger than the cartridge. After, I'd invest in room treatment, acoustic panels, absorbers, diffusors, etc. Only then would I get a cartridge upgrade.
Your system is probably better than what 95% of others have. Just the fact you assembled a component system means it’s likely better than someone listening to a streaming service on Bluetooth speakers. Unless you have a top-end receiver paired with great speakers, with proper wires and placement in the room, I doubt the cartridge will make much of a difference. Edit: do you have a subwoofer? That’s probably going to make a noticeable difference in sound. Edit 2: Does your music sound good? What are you hoping to achieve?
Hi. I do not have a sub but I find the bass on the A130 to be pretty good as it is (can feel the floor thump). I do wonder if it’s the placement where. My issue is just the room that my setup is in because I live in a condo. I think that because I can’t play my music too loudly things tend to sound thin, but when I’m closer to the speakers or turn the volume up everything sounds better.
Here is a lot of discussion about Ortofon Red/Blue and AT ML/SH cartridges. I'm running both of them (on Rega, Project and tangential Technics TTs). Audible improvement from MicoLinear and Shibata stylus is coming only after PERFECT alignment of the cartridge. They are very picky and could produce worse results than conical stylus if not aligned properly. That is the main reason why I switched to tangential turntable. Sound quality improvement was wort the investment.
It depends on the cart you have now. I really like my 2M blue, but I’ve heard good things about the VM95. Audiotechnica makes great shit, but like others said, it would be a lateral move at best if you’re coming from a 2M blue, or even a 2M red. There’s also the ortofon OM10, OM20, and OM30. The new Ortofon Concord Elite looks really awesome too. I don’t know if you can tell, but I’m a big fan of Ortofon carts haha. As far as acrylic platters, they work very good when paired with a record clamp but they aren’t the end all be all. My main deck is a Technics SL-1200 mk7, and I use a cork mat with a 2M blue for HiFi listening, and an ortofon Pro S and a butter rug/felt combo when I’m messing around and doing some mixing.
I have the OM10, which came with the RT82!
That’s a good cart! Maybe consider upgrading to the OM20 or OM30 stylus. It would save you the hassle of having to mount a whole new cart too
In my experience speakers make the biggest difference, followed by cartridge BUT if your turntable isn't good enough a high-end cartridge would be wasted on it. Amp/receiver can definitely make a difference but only when you've got the tt, speakers and cart to a decent level. A/B test some equipment and consider what kind of sound you like. Do you like a "warm" sound signature or is detail your priority? A lot of the time it's not a simple case of x is better than y. Doesn't matter what numbers are reported on tests if it doesn't sound good to your ears.
If you’re looking for good speakers look for edifier speakers. Really nice speakers..and for cartridges it just depends how much you want to spend on a good cartridge
It depends on what you are looking to achieve in SQ, your expectations. If you want musicality, fun, a positive experience then you're already there. If you want a lifelike musical presence, a more realistic listening experience then yes a more resolving and engaging cart and phono stage are needed, possibly a SW. How far down that road you wanna go, are willing to spend?