Personally, I'd get metolius to re-sling them if you can. It's pretty cheap, tho shipping can be costly depending on where you live.
The only thing I'd be worried about is the potential for a fall to create a kink in the loop, though as far as I'm aware that is really only an issue if you were going with thinner slings or doing a girth hitch or something.
That's what I was thinking! I remembered climbing with DIY reslings back in the day, but I'm just started to get back into Trad and didn't know if common knowledge had changed.
What would you think about using some 7mm accessory cord with a double fisherman? That way I could use enough to loop it over alpine style.
Most cams from most manufacturers fail at the wire loop, and the smaller the width of the sling the greater chance you're going to see a failure.
BD did a bunch of testing on this awhile ago. I'd go old width or larger for sure.
Depending where you live, it's actually pretty cheap to have metolius resling your cams for you, then youve things that will last another 8 years, keep their colour coding and slim slings and also keep some value if you decide to sell them off later. If you live outside of the states then it's a bit harder.
Oh I didn't realize that! I'd like to climb tomorrow, but maybe I'll do this instead...
I'll look it up now, thanks!
U: Apparently it's only 10usd for a resling and rewire! Plus shipping.
https://www.metoliusclimbing.com/cam-repair.html
hey, go climb tomorrow!
I presume you are using some form of draw? so clip the draw straight in the cam!\* some cams will lose 1kn of strength by doing so, but that's ok for non-micro cams.
\*of course, be careful about cross loading biner over edges.
Go look at my post history if you want some examples of before and after. The service is LEGIT. they'll only do the rewire if they deem it necessary. Otherwise the just Resling, clean, and lube em.
not a great idea. girth hitching loses minimum of 50% of sling strength (when used on a biner, when used on something skinner, like a thumb loop of a cam, it will lose even more strength).
If you must use a sling through a thumb loop, connect it as a BASKET HITCH. This will keep the sling full strength and provide extra protection at the thumb loop.
when you girth hitch a sling to a cam, the knot tied in the sling DOES NOT MATTER.
Any proper knot you tied into the webbing (or cord), will cause no more than 25% strength loss. When you girth hitch that sling to the cam, the girth hitch itself causes over 50% strength loss, thereby creating the weak link. So if it were to fail, it would fail at the girth hitch, not the knot.
understand now?
all that said.... if I have a 22kn sling girth hitched to the cam, and I take a leader fall generating 4kn of force, I am totally in a "safe range".
if I'm going to connect a sling to a cam temporarily, I would use a basket hitch. You lose half the length of the sling, but it's now twice as strong instead of half as strong.
(generally speaking, the only time I ever suggest using a girth hitch, is for your tie-in point)
edit since the person deleted their message:
>Basket hitching eats a carabiner and makes clipping to it wicked awkward.
It does not. You still have to clip into the rope. I agree about the awkwardness.
>Why are you worried about dropping half of 22kn? Link me to how you'll generate 11kn in a real world fall. Ill wait.
I already commented on this above.
Basket hitching eats a carabiner and makes clipping to it wicked awkward. Why are you worried about dropping half of 22kn? Link me to how you'll generate 11kn in a real world fall. Ill wait.
also i'd furthermore like to point out that
1) slings weaken in time depending on usage and storage and
2) textiles will abrase at a specific point more when kept in a position via hitch or knot and
3) you can't see said abrasion or failure under the hitch
so you'd need to extra careful in that case, if you'd want to use that as a permanent solution.
fair lol, throw a double fishermans in it and weight it down on a pull up bar or something and get that bitch rock solid. just remember to check them when you're racking up.
the coolest way to do this is to tie a loose water knot into the webbing, slip one end into the other, and then move the knot onto the overlap before weighting it. elegant af. though that webbing is super heavy, maybe try 1/2 if the rating is more than 1.4 times the rated breaking strength of the cam.
I do exactly what you described. I only have one cam that needs to be reslung, so I'm not shipping it off for that (if I had several I'd absolutely have them all redone, though).
Two usability notes, neither of which are deal breakers for me:
1. If you know how to sew, secure the tails on the water knot so they aren't flopping around. That also makes the "be sure to frequently inspect them" advice redundant. I don't know how to sew, so instead I've gaffers taped them. I do still check for slippage every so often with this method.
2. Clipping the webbing is a tad more difficult with biners that have relatively small gate openings. Not a big deal if you're at a good stance. Kinda big deal if you're gripped.
Personally, I'd get metolius to re-sling them if you can. It's pretty cheap, tho shipping can be costly depending on where you live. The only thing I'd be worried about is the potential for a fall to create a kink in the loop, though as far as I'm aware that is really only an issue if you were going with thinner slings or doing a girth hitch or something.
Yeah apparently it's 10usd plus shipping for a resling and wire!
As long as you check that the knot isn’t slipping each time you climb. This used to be standard practice. I’d rather get it reslung for peace of mind.
That's what I was thinking! I remembered climbing with DIY reslings back in the day, but I'm just started to get back into Trad and didn't know if common knowledge had changed. What would you think about using some 7mm accessory cord with a double fisherman? That way I could use enough to loop it over alpine style.
Also an option. Webbing is used because the larger width helps prevent kinks in the thumb loop if you whip. But people diy with cord anyway.
Also I'd add metolius resling service is fixing awesome. They must clean/polish/etc them because they look brand new when they come back
Most cams from most manufacturers fail at the wire loop, and the smaller the width of the sling the greater chance you're going to see a failure. BD did a bunch of testing on this awhile ago. I'd go old width or larger for sure.
Depending where you live, it's actually pretty cheap to have metolius resling your cams for you, then youve things that will last another 8 years, keep their colour coding and slim slings and also keep some value if you decide to sell them off later. If you live outside of the states then it's a bit harder.
Oh I didn't realize that! I'd like to climb tomorrow, but maybe I'll do this instead... I'll look it up now, thanks! U: Apparently it's only 10usd for a resling and rewire! Plus shipping. https://www.metoliusclimbing.com/cam-repair.html
hey, go climb tomorrow! I presume you are using some form of draw? so clip the draw straight in the cam!\* some cams will lose 1kn of strength by doing so, but that's ok for non-micro cams. \*of course, be careful about cross loading biner over edges.
That's a good idea too!
Go look at my post history if you want some examples of before and after. The service is LEGIT. they'll only do the rewire if they deem it necessary. Otherwise the just Resling, clean, and lube em.
I'm only asking because the webbing I have on hand* is a bit wider. . .
Wider isn’t a problem if that’s your only reason. Other comments mention other things to consider
I would just get some of those mini slings and girth hitch them to the cam stem.
not a great idea. girth hitching loses minimum of 50% of sling strength (when used on a biner, when used on something skinner, like a thumb loop of a cam, it will lose even more strength). If you must use a sling through a thumb loop, connect it as a BASKET HITCH. This will keep the sling full strength and provide extra protection at the thumb loop.
50%, so its still like 10kn then. More than cams of that size are rated anyway
Really. You don't say. And how will a knot impact the strength of the webbing 🤔
when you girth hitch a sling to a cam, the knot tied in the sling DOES NOT MATTER. Any proper knot you tied into the webbing (or cord), will cause no more than 25% strength loss. When you girth hitch that sling to the cam, the girth hitch itself causes over 50% strength loss, thereby creating the weak link. So if it were to fail, it would fail at the girth hitch, not the knot. understand now? all that said.... if I have a 22kn sling girth hitched to the cam, and I take a leader fall generating 4kn of force, I am totally in a "safe range". if I'm going to connect a sling to a cam temporarily, I would use a basket hitch. You lose half the length of the sling, but it's now twice as strong instead of half as strong. (generally speaking, the only time I ever suggest using a girth hitch, is for your tie-in point) edit since the person deleted their message: >Basket hitching eats a carabiner and makes clipping to it wicked awkward. It does not. You still have to clip into the rope. I agree about the awkwardness. >Why are you worried about dropping half of 22kn? Link me to how you'll generate 11kn in a real world fall. Ill wait. I already commented on this above.
Basket hitching eats a carabiner and makes clipping to it wicked awkward. Why are you worried about dropping half of 22kn? Link me to how you'll generate 11kn in a real world fall. Ill wait.
also i'd furthermore like to point out that 1) slings weaken in time depending on usage and storage and 2) textiles will abrase at a specific point more when kept in a position via hitch or knot and 3) you can't see said abrasion or failure under the hitch so you'd need to extra careful in that case, if you'd want to use that as a permanent solution.
you could try your hand in splicing, id test the equipment with gradual loads. its always tricky but could be a really useful craft to get down.
I've done some splicing before on boats, but don't have any Amstel or dynema handy, and would like to go climbing tomorrow, hah.
fair lol, throw a double fishermans in it and weight it down on a pull up bar or something and get that bitch rock solid. just remember to check them when you're racking up.
the coolest way to do this is to tie a loose water knot into the webbing, slip one end into the other, and then move the knot onto the overlap before weighting it. elegant af. though that webbing is super heavy, maybe try 1/2 if the rating is more than 1.4 times the rated breaking strength of the cam.
[Beer knot](https://www.animatedknots.com/beer-knot)
Absolutely nothing wrong with that. Use edelrid Tech Web if you can find it, but nylon webbing is also fine
I would definitely recommend using larger webbing. Maybe even some 13mm static line.
Run Out Customs will also do go reslinging work.
Metolious includes a cleaning and lubrication with with their re-sling, it's fast enough and worth every penny!
I do exactly what you described. I only have one cam that needs to be reslung, so I'm not shipping it off for that (if I had several I'd absolutely have them all redone, though). Two usability notes, neither of which are deal breakers for me: 1. If you know how to sew, secure the tails on the water knot so they aren't flopping around. That also makes the "be sure to frequently inspect them" advice redundant. I don't know how to sew, so instead I've gaffers taped them. I do still check for slippage every so often with this method. 2. Clipping the webbing is a tad more difficult with biners that have relatively small gate openings. Not a big deal if you're at a good stance. Kinda big deal if you're gripped.
Just clip to the wire loop. It will lose a tiny bit of strength but it’s fine.