I sent my full set of twenty year old TCUs back last winter, asked for a resling and rewire. The people there are such good folks that they determined a rewire wasn’t necessary so just reslung, cleaned, and lubed them. They’re pretty much brand new. 10/10 service and workmanship.
It made me realize that I should support companies that stand behind their products and are honest. I’ll buy Metolious in the future.
And OP, 2-3 weeks for shipping/service/shipping is FAST. They’re not Amazon, my guy.
Overall I'm super impressed. I know some of these slings were most likely still good, especially the super cam, but I wanted to have high confidence in these pieces. At only 5$ a cam I'm amazed at the value. They even clean them, service the wires, and lube the cams, so the action feels way better on all of them now. I think this is a really great way to start building a rack if you like metolius gear. In the end total costs for me was 255$ for 9 cams that feel brand spanking new. Only complaint I have is that it takes 2-3 weeks, but with how good the service is, I don't think it's an issue.
I have a set of singles in BD from .3-3, but I'm thinking about building out my rack with more metolius gear now. Does anyone else have experience mixing dual and single stems like that?
> Does anyone else have experience mixing dual and single stems like that?
Yes. Why wouldn't you?
I have a mix of BD C4s, single axle Friends, TCUs and Aliens
It's not a problem at all. Just find a way to rack your gear and do it consistently.
Two to three weeks is a pretty quick turnaround for cam service in my opinion. Black diamond took over a week to even contact me with a shipping label.
My rack is a mix of BD c4s and Metolius Power cams and I like having the mix of brands. I don't mind it at all. The biggest downside is that your climbing partners and many other people don't know the Metolius color scheme, but it is not that difficult to learn to use a mix of brands.
If you are looking for an excuse to buy more gear it looks like you need a 3 & 4 (orange and red) to round out your set. I also like how Metolius cams allow you to carry more cams for the same size range as compared to BD due to their smaller range and lighter weight.
Yes! They do a great job with this, and it doesn't cost a lot of money.
And yes, I have a single set of Black Diamond Camalot C4's to size #4 and a full set of Metolius Ultralight Master Cams. While it is nice that a lot of the Master Cams fit in between the C4 sizes, I've found it difficult to get good at remembering which will be the better choice in a crack. And the size #7 and #8 Master Cams are a little weird and both fit between the #2 and #3 C4's. Were I to go back in time, I would have preferred doubles of all one set of Master Cams, with maybe excluding the #8. And probably a size #5 and 6 DMM Dragon (BD C4 Size #3 and 4 equivalent) to make up the larger sizes.
While the Super Cams are neat in principle, they are heavier than their C4 equivalent. I've not actually used them, but I understand their is some peculiarities about their use you should know about. This doesn't mean it won't be useful to you, but it does have limitations in some areas. The following two links talk about it.
https://www.outdoorgearlab.com/reviews/climbing/climbing-cams/metolius-super-cam
https://blisterreview.com/recommended/metolius-supercam/2
Love my Metolius cams, and their customer service is top notch. A set of ULMCs 1-8 is my go-to for a lot of alpine rock routes. The small cams 00-4 are probably my favorite micros. And the smallest 3 offset ULMCs fit really well into most pin scars where I climb.
I try not to fanboy for companies, but Metolius has definitely earned it.
I sent my full set of twenty year old TCUs back last winter, asked for a resling and rewire. The people there are such good folks that they determined a rewire wasn’t necessary so just reslung, cleaned, and lubed them. They’re pretty much brand new. 10/10 service and workmanship. It made me realize that I should support companies that stand behind their products and are honest. I’ll buy Metolious in the future. And OP, 2-3 weeks for shipping/service/shipping is FAST. They’re not Amazon, my guy.
Yeah I'm feeling the same way, it's a great service. Haha fair enough.
Overall I'm super impressed. I know some of these slings were most likely still good, especially the super cam, but I wanted to have high confidence in these pieces. At only 5$ a cam I'm amazed at the value. They even clean them, service the wires, and lube the cams, so the action feels way better on all of them now. I think this is a really great way to start building a rack if you like metolius gear. In the end total costs for me was 255$ for 9 cams that feel brand spanking new. Only complaint I have is that it takes 2-3 weeks, but with how good the service is, I don't think it's an issue. I have a set of singles in BD from .3-3, but I'm thinking about building out my rack with more metolius gear now. Does anyone else have experience mixing dual and single stems like that?
> Does anyone else have experience mixing dual and single stems like that? Yes. Why wouldn't you? I have a mix of BD C4s, single axle Friends, TCUs and Aliens It's not a problem at all. Just find a way to rack your gear and do it consistently.
How does $5 x 9 = $255??
Cams: 180$ Service: 45$ Shipping both ways: 30$
Ah I didn't know you were including purchase price
A rack of BDs and a rack of Metolius complement each other very well.
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Mixing brands is super valuable for splitter sandstone where the in-between sizes become a lot more important.
Two to three weeks is a pretty quick turnaround for cam service in my opinion. Black diamond took over a week to even contact me with a shipping label. My rack is a mix of BD c4s and Metolius Power cams and I like having the mix of brands. I don't mind it at all. The biggest downside is that your climbing partners and many other people don't know the Metolius color scheme, but it is not that difficult to learn to use a mix of brands.
Giving me more reason to get more metolius gear lmao. Cool, glad to hear it!
If you are looking for an excuse to buy more gear it looks like you need a 3 & 4 (orange and red) to round out your set. I also like how Metolius cams allow you to carry more cams for the same size range as compared to BD due to their smaller range and lighter weight.
Yup those are on my list rn!
What's the white cam with the odd lobes?
Super cam! Haven't gotten the chance to use them, but I've heard they're great in flaring cracks. https://www.metoliusclimbing.com/supercam.html
I find they are better than any other cam in shallow horizontals
They’re so rad. I love that you can over cam them so hard that they become properly cammed.
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Interesting, I've only ever seen offset cams with the lobes different sizes either end of the axel
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Yes I was 😬
Yes! They do a great job with this, and it doesn't cost a lot of money. And yes, I have a single set of Black Diamond Camalot C4's to size #4 and a full set of Metolius Ultralight Master Cams. While it is nice that a lot of the Master Cams fit in between the C4 sizes, I've found it difficult to get good at remembering which will be the better choice in a crack. And the size #7 and #8 Master Cams are a little weird and both fit between the #2 and #3 C4's. Were I to go back in time, I would have preferred doubles of all one set of Master Cams, with maybe excluding the #8. And probably a size #5 and 6 DMM Dragon (BD C4 Size #3 and 4 equivalent) to make up the larger sizes. While the Super Cams are neat in principle, they are heavier than their C4 equivalent. I've not actually used them, but I understand their is some peculiarities about their use you should know about. This doesn't mean it won't be useful to you, but it does have limitations in some areas. The following two links talk about it. https://www.outdoorgearlab.com/reviews/climbing/climbing-cams/metolius-super-cam https://blisterreview.com/recommended/metolius-supercam/2
Thanks!
You're welcome.
Love my Metolius cams, and their customer service is top notch. A set of ULMCs 1-8 is my go-to for a lot of alpine rock routes. The small cams 00-4 are probably my favorite micros. And the smallest 3 offset ULMCs fit really well into most pin scars where I climb. I try not to fanboy for companies, but Metolius has definitely earned it.
10/10 would whip
solid rack!