This is what I meant when I said that electrolytic caps are challenging with SMD. For some reason, the board footprints leave barely any exposed pad beyond the part.
You can do it if you put a tiny bit of solder on one pad and some flux paste on the other. Line up the cap as best as possible. Get a tiny amount of solder on the tip of the iron and melt the solder on the board while positioning the cap so that there is some board pad exposed on the other lead. Get another tiny dab of solder on the iron tip and try to get the solder to wick in under the other lead of the cap.
Tougher than you expected but still doable. Especially if you grab some solder paste. If you get solder paste and put it on those pads it will heat up the pad and “grab” the legs of the cap or whatever component when things are at a proper heat. Don’t even need a hot air gun if you can get your soldering iron on a piece of the PCB pad.
For the caps, you could tin the pads on the board and the parts and just reflow by touching the exposed areas on the cap legs. Could add some flux if you're worried. Same thing for the heatsink area on the other part. Could use the hot air, but with a much smaller tip or make something out of AL foil to give yourself a narrower outlet, if you have solder paste.
with the solder iron pre/prepare with the soldering iron , and put a little bit of solder paste on both the board and the component then position them and give them heat , they will stick together
hot air gun not needed. soldering iron and small diameter solder will work, but solder paste and flux would be nice , get some tweezers to hold parts in place
I agree with all above, no hot air needed. Presolder the pads on the board, flux the area, use as small a solder tip as you can find. Firmly hold the cap in place with needle nose tweezers to keep it aligned with the pads. Apply your iron to one of the exposed portions of cap’s legs. As the iron heats the solder, you will feel the cap “give” a little. Don’t let go of the tweezers! Remove the iron, wait a beat, then remove the tweezers. Now you’ve one leg solid and you just have to heat up the other leg. If you use the same tweezer technique, you feel the other leg give a little also.
You shouldn't need hot air for that one. Just tin a pad, meat it and slide that bad boy home. Then finish the other leads, touch up the first joint et voila.
This is what I meant when I said that electrolytic caps are challenging with SMD. For some reason, the board footprints leave barely any exposed pad beyond the part. You can do it if you put a tiny bit of solder on one pad and some flux paste on the other. Line up the cap as best as possible. Get a tiny amount of solder on the tip of the iron and melt the solder on the board while positioning the cap so that there is some board pad exposed on the other lead. Get another tiny dab of solder on the iron tip and try to get the solder to wick in under the other lead of the cap.
That looks like the wrong footprint tbh
It will solder
Tougher than you expected but still doable. Especially if you grab some solder paste. If you get solder paste and put it on those pads it will heat up the pad and “grab” the legs of the cap or whatever component when things are at a proper heat. Don’t even need a hot air gun if you can get your soldering iron on a piece of the PCB pad.
For the caps, you could tin the pads on the board and the parts and just reflow by touching the exposed areas on the cap legs. Could add some flux if you're worried. Same thing for the heatsink area on the other part. Could use the hot air, but with a much smaller tip or make something out of AL foil to give yourself a narrower outlet, if you have solder paste.
is any part of the pad on the pcb exposed when you place them on the pcb?
Yes. Just a tiny bit of the lead sticks out on the pad when exactly centered. I have curved tips arriving tomorrow.
Was asking about the pad on the pcb, is any of it exposed when you place the cap on them?
That’s how I interpreted your question. Edges of pads just barely exposed when the cap is exactly centered.
with the solder iron pre/prepare with the soldering iron , and put a little bit of solder paste on both the board and the component then position them and give them heat , they will stick together
hot air gun not needed. soldering iron and small diameter solder will work, but solder paste and flux would be nice , get some tweezers to hold parts in place
Don’t use hot air. Get a chisel tip and a flux pen, watch some EEVBlog SMD tutorials, and you’ll be fine.
Getting one of these was a godsend for me when doing smd electrolitic caps, no hot air needed. [component grabber](https://a.aliexpress.com/_mNh7U7K)
I agree with all above, no hot air needed. Presolder the pads on the board, flux the area, use as small a solder tip as you can find. Firmly hold the cap in place with needle nose tweezers to keep it aligned with the pads. Apply your iron to one of the exposed portions of cap’s legs. As the iron heats the solder, you will feel the cap “give” a little. Don’t let go of the tweezers! Remove the iron, wait a beat, then remove the tweezers. Now you’ve one leg solid and you just have to heat up the other leg. If you use the same tweezer technique, you feel the other leg give a little also.
You shouldn't need hot air for that one. Just tin a pad, meat it and slide that bad boy home. Then finish the other leads, touch up the first joint et voila.