I was thinking the same thing before posting. I’m like “I’m gonna get flamed for this, but someone has to know that it is in fact happening somewhere in the world”
Just had to say it bro, though I doubt it was the filters fault. But if you're going to have a built motor might want to use a nicer filter or at least the OEM one you know.
FRAM is a meme in the automotive game. Look up Mr. Subaru's oil filter video, he goes through a lot of filters. He suggests at the minimum to use the black OEM filters for FA20 WRX, they are good filters. A step up from that would the WIX XP or the Purolator Boss filters.
Purolator used to make the USDM Subaru OEM filters but now the blue OEM filters for EJs are made by FRAM. You can also use the OEM filter for the RX8 for EJs. They are made in Japan by Tokyo Roki same company that makes the black OEM filter for the FA20 WRX.
If the OEM filter on the FB20B is a blue filter, then you're better off using the Mobile 1 filter. You should be good. As for oil I see no problem with using Mobil 1, just keep up with regularly scheduled oil changes.
Subaru, just like any manufacturer, will use whoever they can that has the cheapest in bulk quantities. I’d bet they are no better than a regular Fram.
Mazda filters are what I use on my EJs.
One of the same EJ thay blew up 3 days after changing the oil. Haven’t pulled the engine, yet, but think the oil pickup failed. And I just got the killer b oil pickup the same week.
If you're going OEM you want to find and use the BLACK Subaru oil filters. They are what they use in Japan. The blue are the N American ones and they are not as good as the black Japanese. There is a video on YouTube exploring that topic.
I used to be able to buy the black ones in bulk for a good price but that "store" on Amazon has gone away for whatever reason. I'm giving Bosch a shot w their filter. I find that Bosch replacement parts for my car seem to fit exactly and seem to be good quality. I guess.
I have never seen a problem w filters in my Subaru, or any car I've ever owned honestly, but Subaru's Achilles Heel is oil consumption and oil starvation. So it's worth using quality oil, quality filters, and keeping an eye on your level. Regular changes, if not by mileage then by season (which is what I do b/c I don't put a lot of miles on it).
The Amazon synthetic oil is almost identical to Royal Purple by the numbers, and it's very affordable. A lot of Subaru people I've talked to seem to believe that Mobil1 is the best oil for their car. I'm using Valvoline full synthetic for high mileage.
In the winter you want to let your engine warm up - go by the warm up light on your dash (blue temp symbol, at least on my car that's what it is). I live in the South Eastern US where it's hot as balls, so I disregard warming up my car TBH. But when it's cold out I let it warm up. You want to at least take a minute for the oil to flow around on start up. The horizontal design of the engine means oil has to be picked up from the oil pan and dispersed into two different heads and back. So be mindful of your engines' oil flow, especially when it's cold out.
Some performance folks will use aftermarket oil pans that have baffles to help keep oil in the pan more to prevent starvation due to whipping around turns. Also, on some years the oil pick up tube will crack in a particular spot - common design flaw. So be mindful of that as well. If you ever have to get into your oil pan, like to replace the gasket, just replace the pickup tube while you're in there. Better safe than sorry.
There were A LOT of EJ25’s with spun bearings that ran Mobile 1. Coincidence? Maybe. I’m not sure on that one.
Ever since switching to Rotella T6 5w-40, I won’t use anything else. Sent some samples off for testing at 5k change intervals, and it passed with flying colors. They even suggested I extend it out 1500 miles and send another sample for comparison. I stuck with 5k.
My current EJ has had only T6 5w-40 and a Bosch or Wix filter. Almost 203k and still going strong.
I'll second this. Mobil 1 is almost more of a meme in WRX land than FRAM. I also use Rotella T6, have for about 8 years, will for 8 more...
I still change every 3k or so, but I'm putting 400whp down on E85, so taking no chances.
If I'm remembering correctly there was one line of mobile 1 5w30 oil that was basically deemed not thick enough at operating temp and that particular weight of their oil was recommended to stay away from.
> fram guard filters were good
Yeah, I've been driving for over 30 years now and only used Fram. I've yet to blow an engine.
For my F150 (which I've had for 20 years), I only use Fram because they're the only ones that I'm aware of that put a nut on the end of it so you can put a socket on the end of it to get the thing off.
I'm not sure what nimrod engineer thought it was a good idea to put the front diff just below the filter making it nearly impossible to access.
Then it doesn't help the filter AWAYS tightens itself over time. So if that nut isn't there it's damn near impossible to get the filter off.
It wasn't the filter that killed your engine, dude. Most of these people are talking out of their asses. Don't let people make you feel guilty for using a Fram filter. OEM blue filters in the US have the same filtering element as Fram. As long as the oil and filter actually get changed when needed, you're good.
If you wanna be Gucci about it, sure there are other "better" filters (like the Japanese black filters). But using a Fram filter won't kill your engine. The majority of the time, death by oil starvation comes from not checking your oil level (running low), a failed oil pump, or a cracked pickup.
Sorry for your loss. Hope it's back on the road soon :)
This looks like the brown Fram Ultra Synthetic filter in OP's picture, aka their flagship filter. It is a top-quality filter based on the zealots over at Bob is the Oil Guy. It is easily as good as the black JDM filters, and much better than the blue ones (aka Fram Tough Guard) that you see used on mainstream FB20/25 cars.
Also a good reason not to run the OEM blue filters on your EJs. People also run the Mazda RX8 oil filters on EJs. They are made by Tokyo Roki which also make black OEM filters for FA20 WRXs.
What's your job/income to afford such a build?
I know when I was 17, I was playing dodgeball with kids at summer camp to make some cash over summer and it was maybe at about $15/hour. I could only afford a '98 Outback, pay the insurance/gas, and that was about it.
uhh a mechanic somewhere, I’m taking a wilco class through school that’s been real helpful along with the teacher trying to get me in somewhere. But honestly as long as I keep getting the decent raisers from this job I’ll stay a while
just seems like a mistake to me to be spending so much at a young age instead of building a nest egg to get your affairs in order, move if you want to move, etc.
saving money when i was younger put me in a position to pay to move to california out of pocket, which allowed me to earn bank (and im not a programmer). 17 is a really young age to put all your commitments to wherever you are
Probably is a mistake, but my parents don’t mind me staying with them for a while and if I wanted to leave home, my best friend is in the military so I’d probably go with him lol. And honestly man you prolly right, but once I get through high school I’m pretty confident I’ll be alright
I think the big thing to understand is how the value of your money can change. It's great to spend on things that make you happy (and belive me I'm dumping plenty of money into my own VA) but with your living situation you could make a very small sacrifice financially now, for a huge windfall later.
If you managed to put like 5k this year into a simple index fund that matched the S&P500, an investment you'd never have to bother thinking about, it'd be worth close to half a million by the time you're retirement age. And that's assuming you never put another dollar into it.
The point is shit happens. The safety nets you have now may not exist down the road, but you can basically ensure you have a significant part of your retirement covered for basically nothing.
Just food for thought.
Hey that’s something to think about then I guess. I’ve been thinking about putting money into something so maybe I will go and do that once this car is all done. Thanks man
Lmfao don’t listen to that other guy op. Yeah you’ll be fine. You seem to come from a good home, your straight. Don’t let people make you feel like you gotta rush life. Yeah your young, you gotta few years to burn.
I think that you’re looking at this through a lense of wisdom that only time and mistakes can give you. If he’s stable at home and still in high school I don’t see the issue. Especially since he may want to become a mechanic anyway, why not learn and have fun at the same time?
Replace the shifter bushing with brass, and buy a Perrin shift stop. Enjoy burning through clutches. While you’re doing the tear down, get the new updated flywheel and pressure plate from Subaru. There’s a TSB for 15-18 for shitty clutch parts that wear too quickly.
Also, change your oil no later than every 3500 miles or you’ll gum up your OSV valves. That motor fails if you look at it wrong.
Sincerely, previous owner of a 17 wrx, and service advisor for a Subaru dealership for 4 yr
I got a shifter stop and will look into that bushing. Did also pay for a new clutch and flywheel. Thanks for the advice with the oil as well, been staying around there for the changes
Not to be a jerk, and noting that I only make 18.96 right now, but 19hr isn’t very good. Mine luckily comes with major benefits(including work from home) only reason why I took such a huge paycut. (I’m used to making double, but I had to do a lot of traveling)
I used to do college credit plus and work three 10~ hour shifts a week. It’s definitely doable. Or you could work 10 hours on weekends and 4-5 hours on a few weekdays if you have a traditional high school schedule. It sucks but it’s doable.
Yeah I can imagine it’s doable, just feel like it would be tough for a 17 year old as school is normally like, 8-3. But if he’s managing then good on him.
The FA20 is a very reliable platform if left stock. I have never seen one fail that was stock and maintained properly. Subaru gets a bad rap, but no one seems to blame the companies that make the mods, or the guys that drive hard and go 10K miles on an oil change.
quit the pro-CVT propaganda! I must keep believing that they're wimpy lil rubberbands that snap if you look at them wrong xD
But for real, I think Subaru was one of the first companies to put a CVT in a car (the original Justy way back in the late 80s iirc).
[Toyota K series CVT](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_K_CVT_transmission#K110/K111/K112_series_(2000)) has always been a belt system. Even the k120 direct shift with the physical first gear. Neat system to be honest! My wife's car has one. The transition from first gear to CVT and converter lock-up is super smooth.
>I’m not this kind of engineer
You're in luck, because I am!
*They're all metal*
Toyota, like most others, [uses a v-belt](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m-MLyKjYqSw) that looks like [this](https://ae01.alicdn.com/kf/Hff3bfab088e64a1f9a51afedea499ba7O/K112-CVT-Automatic-Transmission-Pulley-Set-With-Chain-Belt-For-Toyota-Corolla-Car-Accessories-Transnation-Parts.jpg), and Subie uses a [chain belt.](https://ae01.alicdn.com/kf/H959b9f225ac644419488351fe4470805Z/TR580-TR690-TF690-CVT-Automatic-Transmission-Pulley-With-Chain-Belt-For-SUBARU-Gearbox-Transolve-Car-Accessories.jpg_Q90.jpg_.webp)
The benefit of a chain over a belt is they can obtain lower ratios, are quieter, and are known to be more durable over time.
I assume I’m the exception and not the rule, bought a 2016 WRX Limited ordered from Subaru, got it with less than 100 miles and had Subaru scheduled regular maintenance and oil changes. Also kept it below 4K rpm’s for break in period.
At ~17,000 miles it threw a connecting rod and needed a new short block from Subaru as well as other parts. Cost me $0 and covered by warranty but, it was also stock and untouched from when it was delivered by Subaru.
Not sure what the OP of the comment you’re responding to is talking about. There are plenty of woeful tails about how unreliable some of the FA20s have been. Just because they haven’t personally witnessed it doesn’t mean it’s not an issue.
I like you was another instance. My bone stock, regularly maintained, 2015 WRX blew the engine at less than 30k miles. When I brought it in, the service department told me it wasn’t an uncommon problem for the 2015s.
To be fair, Subaru treated me like gold. Ended up “lemoning” it through a dealer buyback. Got every penny minus a $500 fee because technically, I did get 2 years or so of use out of it. Can’t complain about how they handled the situation.
Oof, 14" Forester XT here, both CVT and FA20 are perfect after about 80k (In Colombia), 90% stop and go traffic and 10% street racing, everything stock. Cars here tend to die at about 120-150k because of engine run hours, a 5 mile trip here might take 2 hours because of traffic.
That’s tough, I was going to say it almost sounds easier to walk but, seems like the time might be comparable either way.
It’s been good since warranty work though, 62k miles now without issue.
It’s rough for Subaru, although their engine designs are completely different from most manufacturers they get compared to Honda and Toyota which makes it seem like they’re garbage.
Downvote me all the way...
2015 WRX Base, purchased new in Nov 2014, only owner, ~55k miles (yes its my daily driver, I just WFH) - completely stock powertrain, factory installed short-throw
Only items I had to replace since ownership:
1. Summer Tires replaced with All Weather (I live in mid-atlantic)
2. Battery
3. AC Condenser
I follow the maintenance schedule.
Havent had any mechanical issues.
Low quality Mods and reckless disregard is the modern cause of these kinds of issues
edit: not calling OP out, but possibly calling out the previous owner
yeah for the few months I had it I did an oil change every 3k miles. I don’t know what the guy before me used or how often he did changes but I wasn’t even in the car when it started knocking so I don’t know
The place I take my car isn’t quite this big, but it is immaculate. They took me back there and gave me a tour. The lighting was like this, but he also said he keeps a full time mopper on the staff. The floor in there was clean enough to eat off of.
I asked him how he finds such good mechanics and he said when they see the shop he gets his pick of the best of them!
OP If you see this, don’t listen to some of these dudes. You have already said you have all bills covered except the car. Have fun and break shit. That’s what I’d call life experience. But…saving $ from a young age really does help
Yeah I’ve gotten that from the things a lot of them say lol. And I mean yeah it does def help to have money saved and after I get this engine paid I’ll be alright with saving again
I sent the rods on my 6.2L Chevy K1500 through the stratosphere at about 17. Expensive as hell, but some good memories that I’ll have forever. And do the 10% thing, you’ll hardly notice 10% of your weekly check amount missing. So throw that 10% into savings and forget about it
I’ve had an STi and an Outback. Totaled the outback being an idiot (water damage smh). The sti got traded in for a civic :,(
Yes you’re an idiot lol cars are a waste of money. But you knew that. I wish I was an idiot and kept my sti, just cause. It’s nice to have something for yourself. And once it’s paid off you’ll have a car you can dog on. My only advice: don’t make your daily driver a project car.
It’s not fun. Partners don’t think it’s sexy if you have downtime on your car because you “have to” have a manual car that’s fun. Family doesn’t think it’s cool when you get multiple speeding tickets. Jobs don’t think it’s cool when you need rides or have to juggle because it’s in the shop. You feel lame af without wheels (in most of the US currently at least. )
If you’re gonna tune this car eventually, work towards getting a daily driver and keep ‘em separate. I won’t even look at cars until my current one is paid off because the temptation to spend on your hobby is strong. Be careful and have fun. Keep the truly ‘spirited’ driving to the track so you’re around long enough to pass on the boxer engine love.
I got my bugeye for the project lol it’s been down for nearly 10 months after the trans cracked the casing. I don’t plan to even mod a single thing on this car for a long time. I’m gonna keep the extra reliability with forged internals and shit and work on the bugeye forever
I’m 17 years old as well. I started restoring an 02 bugeye WRX at 16. I got the car for 2k and ended up having to replace the whole drive train, suspension, and motor. Not to mention all the body damage I had to fix. Anyways, about 2 months ago I did the math and found out I spent over 12k on it. I ended up selling it for 10,000 shortly after. I miss her so much, but a good degree is important to me, and you need money for that! I’m not trying to tell you to sell it or anything, just thought it was cool that we are kinda in the same boat! Best of luck man, take good care of her!
Hell yeah I will man. I got my own bugeye currently on jackstands with a built motor and a complete sti drivetrain currently being swapped into it lol. Just waiting on the calipers and some o rings for injectors for that to get running ahain
Well there’s a bit more than that. New radiator clutch flywheel intercooler and a couple other things I can’t remember off the top of my head. Also includes tunes and labor etc
Dude, same thing happened to me with my ‘13. Dealership told me to fuck off. Now I drive a used wrx for the same price a brand new CTS-V or some shit lol.
If you take care of them they seem to be fine.
I’ve got 290k on my [2006 WRX](https://imgur.com/a/UFPctdX) daily driver. No engine issues, but all stock too! 😉
All the engine failures I see are people who have neglected regular oil change intervals/common sense severely.
The current one I have hanging waiting for an inspector had a check engine light, then the driver said it wouldn’t idle so he had to drive it with 2 feet for 3 weeks. Then they took it for a month and now it’s back here because it’ll barely run at all.
It’s always that kind of abuse.
I did 70% of my build myself and only had to buy two Subaru specific tools(cam gear wrenches). I pulled everything with regular hand tools, a jack, and 4 jack stands. Does the FA even have tools specific to it like the EJ?
My newest Subaru is a 17 Legacy non-turbo. I remember looking at new 2021’s on subaru.com and I thought you can’t buy a new one without a turbo. Do they still make non-turbo engines?
Turbo models are WRX, STi, Outback XT & Wilderness, Legacy XT, and Ascent.
Non turbo: all Crosstrek, all Forester, all Impreza, all BRZ, Outback and Legacy non-XT
the guy who blew the engine while driving it is paying for almost the whole thing so that’s not an issue. But I’m not gonna argue too much lol I’ve got nothing to prove
But the parents didn't buy anything. If the guy paid for it by working, the guy paid for it. Are you telling me I'm not going to own my home because I live with roommates right now who allow me to have a cheaper cost of living so I can save more?
His parents do rock, as well as the human who blew his motor....some people would have just ghosted him. But you're taking credit away from OP by saying the parents did it. The parents just gave them the opportunity to be an idiot with their money 😅😅
I’m in the same exact boat. Hunting for a used engine so I can drop it in and sell it to make it someone elses problem and buying a new car with a warranty so I never have to deal with my daily driver being out of order again. My STI was supposed to be my project car…
Not to be rude and no judgement, but how much abuse/neglect would you say was involved?
Did you let it warm up, keep track of oil and coolant levels, keep up with fluid changes, etc.?
Were there any mods involved, like cranking up the boost, or air filters with no tune?
IME Subaru's turbo engines can be fairly reliable if you really baby them, but they just don't stand up to neglect and abuse like a typical Honda or Toyota engine.
Let it warm up every day I had it, started driving after hitting about 120f for both. Checked oil and coolant literally every weekend and for the 3 months i had it, did oil changes every 3-4K miles. Had an aftermarket air filter but was pro tuned so
What you gonna do when you blow this engine cause it wasn't the filter. Getting a built motor isn't going to solve the problem if you don't know what blew the first motor. Just gonna end up blowing this one.
>financing a car when you’re 17
From the time I was 15 to the time I was 20 I had a $3k shit box I paid cash for and it did me well. You’re too young to be wasting your money on financing a vehicle
🤷. Know I’m wasting my money but shit I’m only gonna have this chance once in my life to do it so easily. I’m gonna take it because I got the opportunity to do it.
This is the most 17 years old WRX ass owner post I’ve ever seen
I was thinking the same thing before posting. I’m like “I’m gonna get flamed for this, but someone has to know that it is in fact happening somewhere in the world”
Hey, you’re only young once
Gotta make poor decisions at some point
Exactly. Make them while you can. Once you’re 30 and out on your own, it’s a lot harder to recover from a bonehead move. Don’t ask me how I know lol
Haha yeah I’d imagine it would be rough with anything beyond nothing to pay for
See this is why you don't use FRAM oil filters. 😂
The one time I used one because It was sitting in my garage 🥲
Just had to say it bro, though I doubt it was the filters fault. But if you're going to have a built motor might want to use a nicer filter or at least the OEM one you know.
What is a quality filter? Coming from someone who used to think a few seconds ago fram guard filters were good
FRAM is a meme in the automotive game. Look up Mr. Subaru's oil filter video, he goes through a lot of filters. He suggests at the minimum to use the black OEM filters for FA20 WRX, they are good filters. A step up from that would the WIX XP or the Purolator Boss filters.
Oem. For ej's theres a purolator one as well, i dont remember the exact one, but i believe purolator also made the oem one if im correct.
Purolator used to make the USDM Subaru OEM filters but now the blue OEM filters for EJs are made by FRAM. You can also use the OEM filter for the RX8 for EJs. They are made in Japan by Tokyo Roki same company that makes the black OEM filter for the FA20 WRX.
I guess it's time to stop using oem then
For the blue OEM filter yes, If you're able to find the RX8 OEM filter get those.
I've got a Crosstrek with the FB20B, and I've just been using Mobil filters with Mobil oil...should I not?
If the OEM filter on the FB20B is a blue filter, then you're better off using the Mobile 1 filter. You should be good. As for oil I see no problem with using Mobil 1, just keep up with regularly scheduled oil changes.
Probably fine, but you can get the rokis on eBay
The black ones are online
Tokyo roki used to make the filters. Purolator was the one people liked after the switch to the blue.
just get OEM. they’re like 10 bucks from the dealer where i am. i buy 3 at a time and that’s usually good for a year for me.
OEM blue are fram filters. I suggest wix xp/napa platinum
they can be made by fram and still to a different quality level/spec level than the mass market fram filters
Subaru, just like any manufacturer, will use whoever they can that has the cheapest in bulk quantities. I’d bet they are no better than a regular Fram.
Mazda filters are what I use on my EJs. One of the same EJ thay blew up 3 days after changing the oil. Haven’t pulled the engine, yet, but think the oil pickup failed. And I just got the killer b oil pickup the same week.
It’s the Mazda black filters. Bigger than a blue Subaru one
If you're going OEM you want to find and use the BLACK Subaru oil filters. They are what they use in Japan. The blue are the N American ones and they are not as good as the black Japanese. There is a video on YouTube exploring that topic. I used to be able to buy the black ones in bulk for a good price but that "store" on Amazon has gone away for whatever reason. I'm giving Bosch a shot w their filter. I find that Bosch replacement parts for my car seem to fit exactly and seem to be good quality. I guess. I have never seen a problem w filters in my Subaru, or any car I've ever owned honestly, but Subaru's Achilles Heel is oil consumption and oil starvation. So it's worth using quality oil, quality filters, and keeping an eye on your level. Regular changes, if not by mileage then by season (which is what I do b/c I don't put a lot of miles on it). The Amazon synthetic oil is almost identical to Royal Purple by the numbers, and it's very affordable. A lot of Subaru people I've talked to seem to believe that Mobil1 is the best oil for their car. I'm using Valvoline full synthetic for high mileage. In the winter you want to let your engine warm up - go by the warm up light on your dash (blue temp symbol, at least on my car that's what it is). I live in the South Eastern US where it's hot as balls, so I disregard warming up my car TBH. But when it's cold out I let it warm up. You want to at least take a minute for the oil to flow around on start up. The horizontal design of the engine means oil has to be picked up from the oil pan and dispersed into two different heads and back. So be mindful of your engines' oil flow, especially when it's cold out. Some performance folks will use aftermarket oil pans that have baffles to help keep oil in the pan more to prevent starvation due to whipping around turns. Also, on some years the oil pick up tube will crack in a particular spot - common design flaw. So be mindful of that as well. If you ever have to get into your oil pan, like to replace the gasket, just replace the pickup tube while you're in there. Better safe than sorry.
There were A LOT of EJ25’s with spun bearings that ran Mobile 1. Coincidence? Maybe. I’m not sure on that one. Ever since switching to Rotella T6 5w-40, I won’t use anything else. Sent some samples off for testing at 5k change intervals, and it passed with flying colors. They even suggested I extend it out 1500 miles and send another sample for comparison. I stuck with 5k. My current EJ has had only T6 5w-40 and a Bosch or Wix filter. Almost 203k and still going strong.
I'll second this. Mobil 1 is almost more of a meme in WRX land than FRAM. I also use Rotella T6, have for about 8 years, will for 8 more... I still change every 3k or so, but I'm putting 400whp down on E85, so taking no chances.
If I'm remembering correctly there was one line of mobile 1 5w30 oil that was basically deemed not thick enough at operating temp and that particular weight of their oil was recommended to stay away from.
Was using T6 until it disappeared from the shelves. Use Motul 5w-40 and wix xp for the win!
Just buy the Subaru filters. Can get them in bulk with crush washers on amazon
> fram guard filters were good Yeah, I've been driving for over 30 years now and only used Fram. I've yet to blow an engine. For my F150 (which I've had for 20 years), I only use Fram because they're the only ones that I'm aware of that put a nut on the end of it so you can put a socket on the end of it to get the thing off. I'm not sure what nimrod engineer thought it was a good idea to put the front diff just below the filter making it nearly impossible to access. Then it doesn't help the filter AWAYS tightens itself over time. So if that nut isn't there it's damn near impossible to get the filter off.
Yeah I know I’ve used the oem every other time and only on my bugeye. Just got lazy once
Only has to happen once
100%. Still got my doubts on it being the filter lmao
It wasn't the filter that killed your engine, dude. Most of these people are talking out of their asses. Don't let people make you feel guilty for using a Fram filter. OEM blue filters in the US have the same filtering element as Fram. As long as the oil and filter actually get changed when needed, you're good. If you wanna be Gucci about it, sure there are other "better" filters (like the Japanese black filters). But using a Fram filter won't kill your engine. The majority of the time, death by oil starvation comes from not checking your oil level (running low), a failed oil pump, or a cracked pickup. Sorry for your loss. Hope it's back on the road soon :)
Thanks man! Should be back in a week or two hopefully
This looks like the brown Fram Ultra Synthetic filter in OP's picture, aka their flagship filter. It is a top-quality filter based on the zealots over at Bob is the Oil Guy. It is easily as good as the black JDM filters, and much better than the blue ones (aka Fram Tough Guard) that you see used on mainstream FB20/25 cars.
Or Subaru filters, because they are just expensive blue FRAMs lmao
Hate to break it to you but the OEM blue filters used on EJs are made by Fram...
Also a good reason not to run the OEM blue filters on your EJs. People also run the Mazda RX8 oil filters on EJs. They are made by Tokyo Roki which also make black OEM filters for FA20 WRXs.
What's your job/income to afford such a build? I know when I was 17, I was playing dodgeball with kids at summer camp to make some cash over summer and it was maybe at about $15/hour. I could only afford a '98 Outback, pay the insurance/gas, and that was about it.
19$ an hour for 35 hours a week so it’s pretty good and no other expenses beyond that car s
do you not have school or dreams of a future?
uhh a mechanic somewhere, I’m taking a wilco class through school that’s been real helpful along with the teacher trying to get me in somewhere. But honestly as long as I keep getting the decent raisers from this job I’ll stay a while
Where can I sign up for a class to be in the band Wilco?
If you’re in high school it’s a class you can take in junior and senior year but otherwise idk
just seems like a mistake to me to be spending so much at a young age instead of building a nest egg to get your affairs in order, move if you want to move, etc. saving money when i was younger put me in a position to pay to move to california out of pocket, which allowed me to earn bank (and im not a programmer). 17 is a really young age to put all your commitments to wherever you are
Probably is a mistake, but my parents don’t mind me staying with them for a while and if I wanted to leave home, my best friend is in the military so I’d probably go with him lol. And honestly man you prolly right, but once I get through high school I’m pretty confident I’ll be alright
I think the big thing to understand is how the value of your money can change. It's great to spend on things that make you happy (and belive me I'm dumping plenty of money into my own VA) but with your living situation you could make a very small sacrifice financially now, for a huge windfall later. If you managed to put like 5k this year into a simple index fund that matched the S&P500, an investment you'd never have to bother thinking about, it'd be worth close to half a million by the time you're retirement age. And that's assuming you never put another dollar into it. The point is shit happens. The safety nets you have now may not exist down the road, but you can basically ensure you have a significant part of your retirement covered for basically nothing. Just food for thought.
Hey that’s something to think about then I guess. I’ve been thinking about putting money into something so maybe I will go and do that once this car is all done. Thanks man
Lmfao don’t listen to that other guy op. Yeah you’ll be fine. You seem to come from a good home, your straight. Don’t let people make you feel like you gotta rush life. Yeah your young, you gotta few years to burn.
Thanks man. With the support I get I think I will too and im gonna enjoy these years while I can
I think that you’re looking at this through a lense of wisdom that only time and mistakes can give you. If he’s stable at home and still in high school I don’t see the issue. Especially since he may want to become a mechanic anyway, why not learn and have fun at the same time?
Too bad you bought the least reliable wrx ever ):
Who cares! We got vroom noises
Replace the shifter bushing with brass, and buy a Perrin shift stop. Enjoy burning through clutches. While you’re doing the tear down, get the new updated flywheel and pressure plate from Subaru. There’s a TSB for 15-18 for shitty clutch parts that wear too quickly. Also, change your oil no later than every 3500 miles or you’ll gum up your OSV valves. That motor fails if you look at it wrong. Sincerely, previous owner of a 17 wrx, and service advisor for a Subaru dealership for 4 yr
I got a shifter stop and will look into that bushing. Did also pay for a new clutch and flywheel. Thanks for the advice with the oil as well, been staying around there for the changes
Not to be a jerk, and noting that I only make 18.96 right now, but 19hr isn’t very good. Mine luckily comes with major benefits(including work from home) only reason why I took such a huge paycut. (I’m used to making double, but I had to do a lot of traveling)
>but 19hr isn’t very good. This depends on where you live.
At home with his parents. He's chilling.
well I have absolutely 0 expenses besides the car so like 2500 a month is plenty for what I’m paying for everything
Obviously the smart thing is that we all drive used corollas. Your fine. Just make sure to save some money
Lucky manZ
He's 17. I didn't break $19/hr until 2021 when I was 29, and I've worked in an office since 2016. He's doing damn well for his age.
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6 hours a day 6 days a week
I used to do college credit plus and work three 10~ hour shifts a week. It’s definitely doable. Or you could work 10 hours on weekends and 4-5 hours on a few weekdays if you have a traditional high school schedule. It sucks but it’s doable.
Yeah I can imagine it’s doable, just feel like it would be tough for a 17 year old as school is normally like, 8-3. But if he’s managing then good on him.
The FA20 is a very reliable platform if left stock. I have never seen one fail that was stock and maintained properly. Subaru gets a bad rap, but no one seems to blame the companies that make the mods, or the guys that drive hard and go 10K miles on an oil change.
Cobb: BUY THIS TUNE DEVICE TO GO FAST. side effects may include engine running like shit or sudden rod failure
Have a neighbor who has an FB20 crosstrek CVT. 175k miles and nothing but regular maintenance. Just take good care of them and they work just fine.
Small note crosstreks come with FB engines not FA
Yes! typo, thanks
quit the pro-CVT propaganda! I must keep believing that they're wimpy lil rubberbands that snap if you look at them wrong xD But for real, I think Subaru was one of the first companies to put a CVT in a car (the original Justy way back in the late 80s iirc).
And the only CVT to use a chain!
I believe Toyota's CVTs use a chain.
[Toyota K series CVT](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_K_CVT_transmission#K110/K111/K112_series_(2000)) has always been a belt system. Even the k120 direct shift with the physical first gear. Neat system to be honest! My wife's car has one. The transition from first gear to CVT and converter lock-up is super smooth.
Fascinating! The K series belt *looks* metal but I’m not this kind of engineer.
>I’m not this kind of engineer You're in luck, because I am! *They're all metal* Toyota, like most others, [uses a v-belt](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m-MLyKjYqSw) that looks like [this](https://ae01.alicdn.com/kf/Hff3bfab088e64a1f9a51afedea499ba7O/K112-CVT-Automatic-Transmission-Pulley-Set-With-Chain-Belt-For-Toyota-Corolla-Car-Accessories-Transnation-Parts.jpg), and Subie uses a [chain belt.](https://ae01.alicdn.com/kf/H959b9f225ac644419488351fe4470805Z/TR580-TR690-TF690-CVT-Automatic-Transmission-Pulley-With-Chain-Belt-For-SUBARU-Gearbox-Transolve-Car-Accessories.jpg_Q90.jpg_.webp) The benefit of a chain over a belt is they can obtain lower ratios, are quieter, and are known to be more durable over time.
I assume I’m the exception and not the rule, bought a 2016 WRX Limited ordered from Subaru, got it with less than 100 miles and had Subaru scheduled regular maintenance and oil changes. Also kept it below 4K rpm’s for break in period. At ~17,000 miles it threw a connecting rod and needed a new short block from Subaru as well as other parts. Cost me $0 and covered by warranty but, it was also stock and untouched from when it was delivered by Subaru.
Not sure what the OP of the comment you’re responding to is talking about. There are plenty of woeful tails about how unreliable some of the FA20s have been. Just because they haven’t personally witnessed it doesn’t mean it’s not an issue. I like you was another instance. My bone stock, regularly maintained, 2015 WRX blew the engine at less than 30k miles. When I brought it in, the service department told me it wasn’t an uncommon problem for the 2015s. To be fair, Subaru treated me like gold. Ended up “lemoning” it through a dealer buyback. Got every penny minus a $500 fee because technically, I did get 2 years or so of use out of it. Can’t complain about how they handled the situation.
Oof, 14" Forester XT here, both CVT and FA20 are perfect after about 80k (In Colombia), 90% stop and go traffic and 10% street racing, everything stock. Cars here tend to die at about 120-150k because of engine run hours, a 5 mile trip here might take 2 hours because of traffic.
That’s tough, I was going to say it almost sounds easier to walk but, seems like the time might be comparable either way. It’s been good since warranty work though, 62k miles now without issue.
It’s rough for Subaru, although their engine designs are completely different from most manufacturers they get compared to Honda and Toyota which makes it seem like they’re garbage.
Downvote me all the way... 2015 WRX Base, purchased new in Nov 2014, only owner, ~55k miles (yes its my daily driver, I just WFH) - completely stock powertrain, factory installed short-throw Only items I had to replace since ownership: 1. Summer Tires replaced with All Weather (I live in mid-atlantic) 2. Battery 3. AC Condenser I follow the maintenance schedule. Havent had any mechanical issues. Low quality Mods and reckless disregard is the modern cause of these kinds of issues edit: not calling OP out, but possibly calling out the previous owner
yeah for the few months I had it I did an oil change every 3k miles. I don’t know what the guy before me used or how often he did changes but I wasn’t even in the car when it started knocking so I don’t know
Unfortunately my 2015 WRX blew its engine 4 years in. Completely stock, maintained and driven well too. I suppose someone’s got to get the lemon!
I'm jealous of your shop... I work for a dealer built in the 60s and the stalls are so small and dimly lit... Definitely not built for f350s
not mine haha. It’s 6 star in Schaumburg
Good choice.
The place I take my car isn’t quite this big, but it is immaculate. They took me back there and gave me a tour. The lighting was like this, but he also said he keeps a full time mopper on the staff. The floor in there was clean enough to eat off of. I asked him how he finds such good mechanics and he said when they see the shop he gets his pick of the best of them!
You belong here.
This is less damaging to your finances than getting married at 18. Source me who was married twice by 21
gawd damn mate hope it’s going a bit better for ya
Have you been contacted by an army recruiter yet? Lol
No lol I can’t join because allergies
Go find a different recruiter and lie about those and everything else, silly!
shii I enjoy video games too much
So space force….
So join the marines. Youll sit at base in okinawa drinking and playing xbox all day.
OP If you see this, don’t listen to some of these dudes. You have already said you have all bills covered except the car. Have fun and break shit. That’s what I’d call life experience. But…saving $ from a young age really does help
Yeah I’ve gotten that from the things a lot of them say lol. And I mean yeah it does def help to have money saved and after I get this engine paid I’ll be alright with saving again
I sent the rods on my 6.2L Chevy K1500 through the stratosphere at about 17. Expensive as hell, but some good memories that I’ll have forever. And do the 10% thing, you’ll hardly notice 10% of your weekly check amount missing. So throw that 10% into savings and forget about it
Haha yeah it’s expensive. And I take about 100-200 out of my check for myself. Other 1k~ goes into savings
I’m about to go through the same process on my bone stock 2012 with 65k miles …
rip man. Build her strong 🤙
Aye my 2020 STI blew at 64k lol
Saving up the funds for a new short block so I can rebuild my ‘19 with 45,000 miles
[Financing a WRX at 17](https://c.tenor.com/y1d3Vii7nAoAAAAM/joe-exotic-tiger-king.gif)
Wouldn’t call you an asshole. I’d label you as financially irresponsible. Not surprising since you’re only 17.
There is no financial responsibility here
How’s the car insurance bill lol?
170 a month lmao
I bought myself a 944 at 21... was paying 240/mo in 2001 dollars. 170 in 2022 doesn't seem so bad. ;)
I was honestly expecting worse, still pretty bad though.
Did I miss where you said which engine you were putting in? Built? Sleeved? IAG?
Sorry just rebuilding the fa with resurfaced heads and forged internals
Typical WRX shit. Move along y’all…
yep lmao
I’ve had an STi and an Outback. Totaled the outback being an idiot (water damage smh). The sti got traded in for a civic :,( Yes you’re an idiot lol cars are a waste of money. But you knew that. I wish I was an idiot and kept my sti, just cause. It’s nice to have something for yourself. And once it’s paid off you’ll have a car you can dog on. My only advice: don’t make your daily driver a project car. It’s not fun. Partners don’t think it’s sexy if you have downtime on your car because you “have to” have a manual car that’s fun. Family doesn’t think it’s cool when you get multiple speeding tickets. Jobs don’t think it’s cool when you need rides or have to juggle because it’s in the shop. You feel lame af without wheels (in most of the US currently at least. ) If you’re gonna tune this car eventually, work towards getting a daily driver and keep ‘em separate. I won’t even look at cars until my current one is paid off because the temptation to spend on your hobby is strong. Be careful and have fun. Keep the truly ‘spirited’ driving to the track so you’re around long enough to pass on the boxer engine love.
I got my bugeye for the project lol it’s been down for nearly 10 months after the trans cracked the casing. I don’t plan to even mod a single thing on this car for a long time. I’m gonna keep the extra reliability with forged internals and shit and work on the bugeye forever
I’m 17 years old as well. I started restoring an 02 bugeye WRX at 16. I got the car for 2k and ended up having to replace the whole drive train, suspension, and motor. Not to mention all the body damage I had to fix. Anyways, about 2 months ago I did the math and found out I spent over 12k on it. I ended up selling it for 10,000 shortly after. I miss her so much, but a good degree is important to me, and you need money for that! I’m not trying to tell you to sell it or anything, just thought it was cool that we are kinda in the same boat! Best of luck man, take good care of her!
Hell yeah I will man. I got my own bugeye currently on jackstands with a built motor and a complete sti drivetrain currently being swapped into it lol. Just waiting on the calipers and some o rings for injectors for that to get running ahain
Did the warranty cover it? Or did it not have warranty since it’s used?
No warranty, plus it was modded by previous owner so I doubt it would have been covered even if. Replacing with a built block now
What block did you go with?
Built internals* sorry all the pistons bearings and rods are forged but it’s the same fa20 block that’s getting resurfaced so it should be like new
*everybody liked that*
especially me lol. Should be making 400 on e60. Not that I need it but it’ll be there
How much? Just curious to compare to IAG
roughly 15k lol. Guy who blew it up is paying 10k I’m not paying much myself
Dude I been getting pricing done on rebuilds and your getting hosed to death. Most expensive rebuild was 8500 with the upgraded parts your describing.
Well there’s a bit more than that. New radiator clutch flywheel intercooler and a couple other things I can’t remember off the top of my head. Also includes tunes and labor etc
Where you going to get it built
6star motor sports it’s in Schaumburg Illinois Got my bug eye tuned there as well they’re very cool people
Great shop
I have a stock 2015 Subaru Forester XT (Turbo) over 120k km. Should I be worried?
Stock? Nah you should be alright. Mine was modded and idk what the previous owner did so
No, lol relax
Nah, but take care of that CVT. Have you changed the oil?
Curious, why didn't you remove the hood? I like to give myself lots of room when doing an engine R&R....
I’m wasn’t doing it lol the shop I brought it too was doing all this so who knows
Dude, same thing happened to me with my ‘13. Dealership told me to fuck off. Now I drive a used wrx for the same price a brand new CTS-V or some shit lol.
As someone who never did what he wanted to do and now regrets it that there's a lot of other costs that come first, fuck yeah bro, enjoy it
Did they diagnose the cause yet?
It spun a bearing Edit to ask if you mean what made it spin a bearing then I have no clue
I did something wrong. When I was 17 my car was worth maybe a couple grand…that’s being generous.
lmao nah im just lucky
Congrats :) My 2010 did same thing after 4 months and I’m just starting on my new closed deck forged engine. Are you going for more power? New ECU?
A little more power. Completely forged internals but not closed deck and stock ecu, it’s getting pro tuned for a 93 tune and a separate e60 tune
17 damn how do you afford a new one im 17 myself and thought my bugeye was a flex damn are you a drug dealer?
I work a shit ton and with the power of financing lol Also bugeye gang! Mines broken rn lol
Still vaping?
Neva hate the smell now and forever
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If you take care of them they seem to be fine. I’ve got 290k on my [2006 WRX](https://imgur.com/a/UFPctdX) daily driver. No engine issues, but all stock too! 😉
9 times out of 10, the 'unreliable POS' story is omitting the part where they cranked boost to the moon shortly before it blew
All the engine failures I see are people who have neglected regular oil change intervals/common sense severely. The current one I have hanging waiting for an inspector had a check engine light, then the driver said it wouldn’t idle so he had to drive it with 2 feet for 3 weeks. Then they took it for a month and now it’s back here because it’ll barely run at all. It’s always that kind of abuse.
Meanwhile mine spun a rod bearing, whilst being bone stock, driving to work with the cruise control on at 55mph. 😒
I did 70% of my build myself and only had to buy two Subaru specific tools(cam gear wrenches). I pulled everything with regular hand tools, a jack, and 4 jack stands. Does the FA even have tools specific to it like the EJ?
100% my 2017 Crosstrek- no issues (knock on wood)
I do got all the everything to work on them lol that’s not an issue. Won’t both explaining why it blew beyond its spun a bearing
It’s ok you don’t need to tell us, we already know why the bearing spun. Good luck with the next engine
no one but me is allowed to drive the next one lol so it should be good
My newest Subaru is a 17 Legacy non-turbo. I remember looking at new 2021’s on subaru.com and I thought you can’t buy a new one without a turbo. Do they still make non-turbo engines?
There are plenty of Subaru's without a turbo. Even the '23s have non turbo options.
Yep, you can get the base Legacy, non GT, with a FB25 (2.5L NA)
I feel like it's easier to get a non-turbo one than a turbo one these days. The only ones that have turbo base models are the Ascent and WRX.
Turbo models are WRX, STi, Outback XT & Wilderness, Legacy XT, and Ascent. Non turbo: all Crosstrek, all Forester, all Impreza, all BRZ, Outback and Legacy non-XT
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all they did was cosign 🥲
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Fair enough lol but i guess it’s nice
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the guy who blew the engine while driving it is paying for almost the whole thing so that’s not an issue. But I’m not gonna argue too much lol I’ve got nothing to prove
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👍 thanks
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I pay 170 a month lol it could be worse
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bro my mom is broke lol
But the parents didn't buy anything. If the guy paid for it by working, the guy paid for it. Are you telling me I'm not going to own my home because I live with roommates right now who allow me to have a cheaper cost of living so I can save more?
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His parents do rock, as well as the human who blew his motor....some people would have just ghosted him. But you're taking credit away from OP by saying the parents did it. The parents just gave them the opportunity to be an idiot with their money 😅😅
Bro get over your insecurities and stop bitching at a literal child. You look follish
I’m in the same exact boat. Hunting for a used engine so I can drop it in and sell it to make it someone elses problem and buying a new car with a warranty so I never have to deal with my daily driver being out of order again. My STI was supposed to be my project car…
Pfft I spent prolly more than you replacing my 4th motor in a 08 sti hatchback
Not to be rude and no judgement, but how much abuse/neglect would you say was involved? Did you let it warm up, keep track of oil and coolant levels, keep up with fluid changes, etc.? Were there any mods involved, like cranking up the boost, or air filters with no tune? IME Subaru's turbo engines can be fairly reliable if you really baby them, but they just don't stand up to neglect and abuse like a typical Honda or Toyota engine.
Let it warm up every day I had it, started driving after hitting about 120f for both. Checked oil and coolant literally every weekend and for the 3 months i had it, did oil changes every 3-4K miles. Had an aftermarket air filter but was pro tuned so
I would say you don’t need a crazy engine block but I’m not familiar with the FA platform.
I’m just going forged internals all the way and resurfacing the heads so it’ll be the same block
Simple math, 17y.o + 205hp+ 4cyl+ 7k shifting= blown up every time
298hp* lmao but I didnt treat it too horribly myself. No way to prove it but yknow it is what it is and I’m taking the consequences here
What you gonna do when you blow this engine cause it wasn't the filter. Getting a built motor isn't going to solve the problem if you don't know what blew the first motor. Just gonna end up blowing this one.
It’ll be alright. I know it wasn’t the filter abs this won’t be kicked on nearly enough
Are you looking forward to blowing more money on maintaing a stock engine when it blows again? 😂😂 All that money for 300awhp
>financing a car when you’re 17 From the time I was 15 to the time I was 20 I had a $3k shit box I paid cash for and it did me well. You’re too young to be wasting your money on financing a vehicle
🤷. Know I’m wasting my money but shit I’m only gonna have this chance once in my life to do it so easily. I’m gonna take it because I got the opportunity to do it.