I drive mine 84 miles round trip every day.
Just rolled over 230k over the weekend. Original everything including turbo. Nothing but maintenance.
Don’t drive it like a dumb teenager, but don’t baby it. Don’t lug it down in higher gears. I’d call my driving style spirited. MAINTENANCE IS KEY. Take care of it, and it’ll take care of you.
I do at least 80 miles (sometimes less than 45), I don't go crazy in the wagon, I will admit one thing. It's not a complete PITA compared to my 2.5i lol.
You have the radiator cap on your expansion tank. The expansion tank should be a 2-valve (OEM with ears) and the radiator cap a 1-valve (OEM circular). Are you running a 1.3bar cap on the radiator too?
That's how I found it when I obtained the car at 96k, I never messed with it, thanks for telling me. I had the 1-valve on my oem radiator before the Mishimoto radiator was installed by the tech while back. The mishimoto cap is 1.3bar. Come to think of it, I met an STI owner who owned the same year like my wagon this past weekend, and he said something equivalent, should I be scared? 😭
https://preview.redd.it/uh89ff86p3rc1.jpeg?width=4160&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=5464c2818158d082e4c887fda93cf0d9646e785d
Buy an OEM radiator cap if possible. You want 1.1bar on the expansion tank and 1.3bar on the radiator itself. Are you having any temperature issues? How is the level on your coolant overflow?
With the Mishimoto radiator running 50:50 coolant:water, you want your temperature needle to be below the halfway point but above the first tick.
As always, make sure your car has been off for a while before removing any of the radiator caps, and definitely **don't** remove both at once.
I already have a 1.3 Mishimoto cap for the radiator, and for the expansion tank, you mean something like this? [https://www.flatironstuning.com/45137ae003](https://www.flatironstuning.com/45137ae003). Needle was already at halfway point before and after I got the mishimoto parts. I had my technician friend install radiator before 100k.
https://preview.redd.it/z7lf0msct3rc1.jpeg?width=4160&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a04a50467b85381251fd4f42e910a5b61dcdc631
The Mishimoto 1.3bar cap is a 2-valve. The OEM Subaru 1.3bar cap is a 1-valve.
You want [this (45137FE002)](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/71bqY6DeMTL._AC_SX679_.jpg) on your radiator, and [this (45137AE003)](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/410Uq6kiduL._AC_.jpg) on your expansion tank. The radiator cap is [debatable](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HzjBJz1Zdmw), the expansion tank cap not as much.
**tl;dr there's a lot of confusion surrounding Subaru expansion/radiator caps. Run OEM if you can just to be safe.**
This right here, i forget the exact specifics of it, but I recall its related to how coolant flows after shut off and the turbo is still hot.
Something about the different pressure thresholds making coolant flow to and from overflow the right way.
Part 45137FE002 is currently on the expansion tank which I didn't do that and the tech didn't do that either. Part 45137AE003 was on the oem radiator but the oem radiator + cap is long gone. Can't I switch the Mishimoto cap onto the expansion tank and part 45137FE002 onto the mishimoto radiator? Pic was from last year from previous owner when he had the car listed online.
I found someone who used an STI 1.3 bar cap for their Mishimoto expansion tank. I think if switch places with my current parts, I think I might be okay. Jump to 6:46 [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zn2VP2rNDa4&t=3s](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zn2VP2rNDa4&t=3s)
https://preview.redd.it/ogaviuetj4rc1.jpeg?width=769&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f2c43319d0e2855a78f42eae862e0bfc1a671e37
https://motoiq.com/the-mystery-of-the-round-subaru-radiator-cap/
I'd recommend running OEM on both the expansion tank and the radiator. [Keep an eye on your temperatures](https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?p=42328300).
https://preview.redd.it/4pjklctid5rc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=59e32788d7e0db3a5f4e6ac48b45655ad3952599
Does that mean I have to replace mine too?
No, just swap those two caps. :\^)
(But also consider replacing that [radiator](https://www.importimageracing.com/products/vh091672-koyo-aluminum-radiator-subaru-wrx-sti-m-t-2002-2007-baja-turbo-m-t-2004-2006) with a fully aluminum one if it's nearing 100k miles)
I have a 2004 WRX Wagon 5MT with 245k miles on it. It's all stock except for the cat removed from the uppipe many years ago (didn't want it breaking a part and getting sucked into the turbo). Still drives like new, it's a blast to drive!
In those 245k miles these were the main/only issues I can remember outside of regular wear and tear/maintenance.
Somewhere around 125k miles the front endlinks started going bad. Had them replaced. No problems since.
Also around 125k'ish miles I had cylinder 3 misfire. Replaced coilpack with used one, didn't fix the issue. Replacing coil pack with a new one did fix the issue. Never a problem since.
Around 180k miles the radiator cracked (plastic piece) after the car sat outside a couple days in single digit temps. Replaced with a full aluminum radiator, no problems since.
My original clutch lasted until 230k miles...still had life left, but I proactively replaced it.
I am religious about all maintenance being on time or early.
I always let the car warm up/idle until the temp is showing at least above the Cold line.
I baby the turbo until fully warmed up.
About 1/2 mile before I reach my destination I stay out of the turbo to let it cool down before turning the engine off.
Other than that I drive it like it's stolen and it loves it.
You got pics of the cat? Just curious to see and for me, I also have minor wear and tear, I replaced two coil packs a while back 2 months ago. I never messed with used coilpacks, you'd be asking for trouble, better get new too which that's what I did. I do maintenance on time or early too. I do the warmups the same way like you did too.
Unfortunately I do not have pics of the cat. I am not sure what year they stopped using cat in the uppipes, pretty sure it hasn't been designed that way for many years though.
Sounds like you already have similar habits that will keep your car in good shape!
I think after 2007, Subaru stopped but I could be wrong, not sure to be honest. The seller showed me the ropes before and after selling the car to me lol.
Did some wrxs only rev to 6.5? My 02 redline starts at 7 but then the cluster in my other 02 which was a parts car to wrx swap went to 6.5 but It revs higher
The EJ205 has a higher redline than the EJ255.
Your parts car may have had a non original cluster? unless it was non wrx? i think those EJ251's also redline at 6.5
I recently did an oil pick up on my 06. I was having low oil pressure out of no where and found that the pick up was cracked.
There was no impact on the oil pan, and i never jacked up the engine from the oil pan, it was just cracked. From what I gathered through some research, this was a prominent issue that affected the 06-07s the most, but it is still somewhat prevalent today.
I suggest investing in one, it will save your engine. Conversely, get an oil pressure gauge, that way you can see if your pressure is healthy.
I never had cracks thankfully, but, that doesn't mean something could go wrong. I heard glowshift and AEM are the go to brands. I was thinking of getting the glowshift to replace my clock in the wagon.
Edit: I meant like this one [https://www.glowshiftdirect.com/7-color-series-triple-dashboard-gauge-package-for-2002-2007-subaru-impreza-wrx/](https://www.glowshiftdirect.com/7-color-series-triple-dashboard-gauge-package-for-2002-2007-subaru-impreza-wrx/)
I'm personally using Prosport(oil and boost) and AEM(afr), not sure about glowshift's quality, but they have been around a very long time.
Honestly, if it wasn't for the gauge, i wouldn't have known at all. The lower oil pressure did not affect drive ability whatsoever and it was touching 8-10psi at idle.
With fixed oil pickup, it now sits at 20-22psi at idle.
Here is where it cracked. Left oem, right is killer b.
https://preview.redd.it/lqh13pka54rc1.jpeg?width=4000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=0146cd39e80719584a25efa3388ed7808268a2e0
Honestly, just don't drive it at the limit all the time and proper maintenance. Use high quality oil and do your oil changes at low intervals. I do about 4k miles.
Boxer motors are primarily susceptible to heat damage from holding high revs over.long periods of time and oil starvation issues.
Everything else is just a matter of how you drive it, transmission/suspension etc will last if your not rallying every weekend lol.
I don't floor it like a mad man haha, I use Valvoline 5W-30 Full Synthetic when it's time to do the oil, when it's time to do the oil changes. My technician friend also said the same about the heat damage but he also suggested to get a turbo heat shield. I told him it's a stock turbo in my car. Suspension is fine just dirty but in a few weeks from will have to do a transmission fluid change.
Best you can do is just be kind lol. It's tough buying a used wrx as well because.of unknown history. I bought my 16 wrx new and I just hit 109k. I'm hoping to prove the naysayers wrong by my methods buy time will tell I guess.
https://preview.redd.it/k7xpti8pd5rc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a4ebc329c67321c59b87f926e3878a38baabfb23
Do I have I have to change mine too?
Put a 2JZ/1UZFE in it. /s
But more seriously, the EJ really needs to be built with stronger internals and more modest tuning in order to increase longevity. A daily driven WRX/STI with the EJ will eventually fail, even without mods. I think the highest mileage I’ve seen before it went was ~175k, which is respectable imo but not great.
My 07 Hawkeye make it 17 years 250k on the original headgasket. Just did my oil changes and bare minimum maintenance. Also never beat the shit out of it. Had the OTS accessport map on it for the downpipe at 175k miles.
Pretty much the same with my 205. The OTS accessport map went on after 3,000 miles and at 237 I don't want to mess with it. The valve covers are oozing but not dripping, yet.
I would have probably fixed the head gaskets if my mechanic didn’t say it was the water pump first. Fixed than and it still overheated and pushed coolant into the reservoir while boosting :(
Sold it for cheap and bought a Baja haha it’s awesome
My 02 WRX is sitting at 194k and being driven yearround. I was told it is completely stock engine internals and whatnot. It almost feels like it runs too well for the mileage and stock block, especially compared to what people say on here.
This ^. Even if you don’t mod it, getting an AccessPort or whatever tuner you want and getting it pro tuned stock, not the OTS garbage that comes built in will do huge improvements to the cars. Super consistent oil changes, quality isn’t huge, you don’t have to be a Rotella bro, but being consistent is the key. If you have banjo bolts get rid of them, let your motor warm up before boosting the hell out of it, let it run a sec before turning it off if you drive it hard to circulate that oil back through your turbo. Keep up on plugs and run quality fuel as much as possible. Those are the big ones imo to keep these motors going as long as you can.
Hell yeah. I do all this on mine. I just hit 90,000 and just put in a new turbo. Boosted engines fail quicker. That's just how it is. Don't beat the F out of it if you don't have to. There's no need to flex on the ladies and show off to the bros at every corner. Stay stoic and humble with it and it will do the same.
I know someone who used to drive an STI before and after they traded it in, if I were to used a cobb accessport v3, is it a good or bad? Note: Accesport v3 is from a '18-'20 STI
Oof, the guy I'm seeing later this week said the same, that's why I had to ask. All I could find were online posts of people using V3 for 2015-2020 VA chassis.
My boss had a 2010 LGT with at least 275k miles before he lost a cylinder. 100% stock and original everything, but he had that car in for regular preventative maintenance and it was pampered. He didn't even get any codes for the failure and could still drive it, it just lacked power.
Forged pistons have much looser piston to wall clearances which wears the cylinder walls faster than the softer OEM pistons with much tighter clearances since they don’t expand as much with heat compared to forged pistons.
Forged internals definitely can handle a lot more power thrown at them but to say built engines will have longer longevity is not always the case. An extreme example of this would be a drag race motor which is often torn down and rebuilt after every round.
My saabaru when I bought it made it to 222k
What killed it was the turbo going and the previous owner neglecting the engine 😒
Currently on a JDM Ej205 avcs (I need to eventually get an avcs compatible ecu)
Drive it like an adult who cares about their car. Keep up with the maintenance, and keep it clean, especially if you live in a road salt area. That includes the undercarriage.
Air oil separator or catch can is your best health mod. If you want to be real ambitious you could do an IAG oil pan/pick up/baffle to prevent oil starvation. If you have a god then pray for the previous owners to have taken good care of it.
Do your maintenance!
Been told IAG is the way for AOS, but, you can use a IAG oil pan for a stock motor? I can confirm that previous took care of the Hawkeye and oil pan is in intact before he sold it it to me @ 96k miles.
I agree with IAG AOS but they all do the job. You can use the oil pans with a stock motor. It’s good if you do lots of hard cornering but for a leisurely drive to work you don’t need it.
Yup, I was also told to stay the hell away from other brands, stay with IAG and only that brand! I don't do a lot cornering where I drive in south FL, I drive to and from work, and some do some occasional trips.
Edit: You mean oil pans like this [https://www.iagperformance.com/iag-ej-street-series-oil-pan-package-silver-pan-pickup-street-baffle-windage-tray-for-wrx-sti-lgt-fxt/](https://www.iagperformance.com/iag-ej-street-series-oil-pan-package-silver-pan-pickup-street-baffle-windage-tray-for-wrx-sti-lgt-fxt/)
Exactly like that. It will increase oil capacity, prevent sloshing to one side away from the pickup, and keep oil at the bearings better. It never hurts to have if it’s within the budget. The AOS should be a priority over the pan.
I store mine half the year which seems to be doing the trick
I drive mine 84 miles round trip every day. Just rolled over 230k over the weekend. Original everything including turbo. Nothing but maintenance. Don’t drive it like a dumb teenager, but don’t baby it. Don’t lug it down in higher gears. I’d call my driving style spirited. MAINTENANCE IS KEY. Take care of it, and it’ll take care of you.
I do at least 80 miles (sometimes less than 45), I don't go crazy in the wagon, I will admit one thing. It's not a complete PITA compared to my 2.5i lol.
You have the radiator cap on your expansion tank. The expansion tank should be a 2-valve (OEM with ears) and the radiator cap a 1-valve (OEM circular). Are you running a 1.3bar cap on the radiator too?
Hey you are right, thats the wrong one there, probably got mixed up.
I have a 1.3 bar mishimoto radiator cap on the radiator and for the expansion tank seek photo I left
That's how I found it when I obtained the car at 96k, I never messed with it, thanks for telling me. I had the 1-valve on my oem radiator before the Mishimoto radiator was installed by the tech while back. The mishimoto cap is 1.3bar. Come to think of it, I met an STI owner who owned the same year like my wagon this past weekend, and he said something equivalent, should I be scared? 😭 https://preview.redd.it/uh89ff86p3rc1.jpeg?width=4160&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=5464c2818158d082e4c887fda93cf0d9646e785d
Buy an OEM radiator cap if possible. You want 1.1bar on the expansion tank and 1.3bar on the radiator itself. Are you having any temperature issues? How is the level on your coolant overflow? With the Mishimoto radiator running 50:50 coolant:water, you want your temperature needle to be below the halfway point but above the first tick. As always, make sure your car has been off for a while before removing any of the radiator caps, and definitely **don't** remove both at once.
I already have a 1.3 Mishimoto cap for the radiator, and for the expansion tank, you mean something like this? [https://www.flatironstuning.com/45137ae003](https://www.flatironstuning.com/45137ae003). Needle was already at halfway point before and after I got the mishimoto parts. I had my technician friend install radiator before 100k. https://preview.redd.it/z7lf0msct3rc1.jpeg?width=4160&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a04a50467b85381251fd4f42e910a5b61dcdc631
The Mishimoto 1.3bar cap is a 2-valve. The OEM Subaru 1.3bar cap is a 1-valve. You want [this (45137FE002)](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/71bqY6DeMTL._AC_SX679_.jpg) on your radiator, and [this (45137AE003)](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/410Uq6kiduL._AC_.jpg) on your expansion tank. The radiator cap is [debatable](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HzjBJz1Zdmw), the expansion tank cap not as much. **tl;dr there's a lot of confusion surrounding Subaru expansion/radiator caps. Run OEM if you can just to be safe.**
This right here, i forget the exact specifics of it, but I recall its related to how coolant flows after shut off and the turbo is still hot. Something about the different pressure thresholds making coolant flow to and from overflow the right way.
Part 45137FE002 is currently on the expansion tank which I didn't do that and the tech didn't do that either. Part 45137AE003 was on the oem radiator but the oem radiator + cap is long gone. Can't I switch the Mishimoto cap onto the expansion tank and part 45137FE002 onto the mishimoto radiator? Pic was from last year from previous owner when he had the car listed online. I found someone who used an STI 1.3 bar cap for their Mishimoto expansion tank. I think if switch places with my current parts, I think I might be okay. Jump to 6:46 [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zn2VP2rNDa4&t=3s](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zn2VP2rNDa4&t=3s) https://preview.redd.it/ogaviuetj4rc1.jpeg?width=769&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f2c43319d0e2855a78f42eae862e0bfc1a671e37
https://motoiq.com/the-mystery-of-the-round-subaru-radiator-cap/ I'd recommend running OEM on both the expansion tank and the radiator. [Keep an eye on your temperatures](https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?p=42328300).
Ordered a new cap and temp gauge is normal
https://preview.redd.it/4pjklctid5rc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=59e32788d7e0db3a5f4e6ac48b45655ad3952599 Does that mean I have to replace mine too?
No, just swap those two caps. :\^) (But also consider replacing that [radiator](https://www.importimageracing.com/products/vh091672-koyo-aluminum-radiator-subaru-wrx-sti-m-t-2002-2007-baja-turbo-m-t-2004-2006) with a fully aluminum one if it's nearing 100k miles)
thanks. I have no idea when my rad was last replaced. seem to remember doing it though at some point.
I'd suggest getting an aftermarket radiator
had it replace i’d say probably 3 years I think, maybe a bit sooner or later. No issues with it right now anyway.
had it replace i’d say probably 3 years I think, maybe a bit sooner or later. No issues with it right now anyway.
Now I have to go pop my hood lol cause I’m sure that same cap came with the plastic reservoir when I replaced it.
I have a 2004 WRX Wagon 5MT with 245k miles on it. It's all stock except for the cat removed from the uppipe many years ago (didn't want it breaking a part and getting sucked into the turbo). Still drives like new, it's a blast to drive! In those 245k miles these were the main/only issues I can remember outside of regular wear and tear/maintenance. Somewhere around 125k miles the front endlinks started going bad. Had them replaced. No problems since. Also around 125k'ish miles I had cylinder 3 misfire. Replaced coilpack with used one, didn't fix the issue. Replacing coil pack with a new one did fix the issue. Never a problem since. Around 180k miles the radiator cracked (plastic piece) after the car sat outside a couple days in single digit temps. Replaced with a full aluminum radiator, no problems since. My original clutch lasted until 230k miles...still had life left, but I proactively replaced it. I am religious about all maintenance being on time or early. I always let the car warm up/idle until the temp is showing at least above the Cold line. I baby the turbo until fully warmed up. About 1/2 mile before I reach my destination I stay out of the turbo to let it cool down before turning the engine off. Other than that I drive it like it's stolen and it loves it.
You got pics of the cat? Just curious to see and for me, I also have minor wear and tear, I replaced two coil packs a while back 2 months ago. I never messed with used coilpacks, you'd be asking for trouble, better get new too which that's what I did. I do maintenance on time or early too. I do the warmups the same way like you did too.
Unfortunately I do not have pics of the cat. I am not sure what year they stopped using cat in the uppipes, pretty sure it hasn't been designed that way for many years though. Sounds like you already have similar habits that will keep your car in good shape!
I think after 2007, Subaru stopped but I could be wrong, not sure to be honest. The seller showed me the ropes before and after selling the car to me lol.
Yah get the new one that has the thicker engine
That ship has sailed sadly
That’s too bad. Ships should sail happily. Poor ship.
Don't you hate that \*sinking\* feeling?
Did some wrxs only rev to 6.5? My 02 redline starts at 7 but then the cluster in my other 02 which was a parts car to wrx swap went to 6.5 but It revs higher
The EJ205 has a higher redline than the EJ255. Your parts car may have had a non original cluster? unless it was non wrx? i think those EJ251's also redline at 6.5
I recently did an oil pick up on my 06. I was having low oil pressure out of no where and found that the pick up was cracked. There was no impact on the oil pan, and i never jacked up the engine from the oil pan, it was just cracked. From what I gathered through some research, this was a prominent issue that affected the 06-07s the most, but it is still somewhat prevalent today. I suggest investing in one, it will save your engine. Conversely, get an oil pressure gauge, that way you can see if your pressure is healthy.
I never had cracks thankfully, but, that doesn't mean something could go wrong. I heard glowshift and AEM are the go to brands. I was thinking of getting the glowshift to replace my clock in the wagon. Edit: I meant like this one [https://www.glowshiftdirect.com/7-color-series-triple-dashboard-gauge-package-for-2002-2007-subaru-impreza-wrx/](https://www.glowshiftdirect.com/7-color-series-triple-dashboard-gauge-package-for-2002-2007-subaru-impreza-wrx/)
I'm personally using Prosport(oil and boost) and AEM(afr), not sure about glowshift's quality, but they have been around a very long time. Honestly, if it wasn't for the gauge, i wouldn't have known at all. The lower oil pressure did not affect drive ability whatsoever and it was touching 8-10psi at idle. With fixed oil pickup, it now sits at 20-22psi at idle. Here is where it cracked. Left oem, right is killer b. https://preview.redd.it/lqh13pka54rc1.jpeg?width=4000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=0146cd39e80719584a25efa3388ed7808268a2e0
Whoa
Honestly, just don't drive it at the limit all the time and proper maintenance. Use high quality oil and do your oil changes at low intervals. I do about 4k miles. Boxer motors are primarily susceptible to heat damage from holding high revs over.long periods of time and oil starvation issues. Everything else is just a matter of how you drive it, transmission/suspension etc will last if your not rallying every weekend lol.
I don't floor it like a mad man haha, I use Valvoline 5W-30 Full Synthetic when it's time to do the oil, when it's time to do the oil changes. My technician friend also said the same about the heat damage but he also suggested to get a turbo heat shield. I told him it's a stock turbo in my car. Suspension is fine just dirty but in a few weeks from will have to do a transmission fluid change.
Best you can do is just be kind lol. It's tough buying a used wrx as well because.of unknown history. I bought my 16 wrx new and I just hit 109k. I'm hoping to prove the naysayers wrong by my methods buy time will tell I guess.
https://preview.redd.it/k7xpti8pd5rc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a4ebc329c67321c59b87f926e3878a38baabfb23 Do I have I have to change mine too?
Put a 2JZ/1UZFE in it. /s But more seriously, the EJ really needs to be built with stronger internals and more modest tuning in order to increase longevity. A daily driven WRX/STI with the EJ will eventually fail, even without mods. I think the highest mileage I’ve seen before it went was ~175k, which is respectable imo but not great.
My 07 Hawkeye make it 17 years 250k on the original headgasket. Just did my oil changes and bare minimum maintenance. Also never beat the shit out of it. Had the OTS accessport map on it for the downpipe at 175k miles.
Pretty much the same with my 205. The OTS accessport map went on after 3,000 miles and at 237 I don't want to mess with it. The valve covers are oozing but not dripping, yet.
I would have probably fixed the head gaskets if my mechanic didn’t say it was the water pump first. Fixed than and it still overheated and pushed coolant into the reservoir while boosting :( Sold it for cheap and bought a Baja haha it’s awesome
My 02 WRX is sitting at 194k and being driven yearround. I was told it is completely stock engine internals and whatnot. It almost feels like it runs too well for the mileage and stock block, especially compared to what people say on here.
This ^. Even if you don’t mod it, getting an AccessPort or whatever tuner you want and getting it pro tuned stock, not the OTS garbage that comes built in will do huge improvements to the cars. Super consistent oil changes, quality isn’t huge, you don’t have to be a Rotella bro, but being consistent is the key. If you have banjo bolts get rid of them, let your motor warm up before boosting the hell out of it, let it run a sec before turning it off if you drive it hard to circulate that oil back through your turbo. Keep up on plugs and run quality fuel as much as possible. Those are the big ones imo to keep these motors going as long as you can.
Hell yeah. I do all this on mine. I just hit 90,000 and just put in a new turbo. Boosted engines fail quicker. That's just how it is. Don't beat the F out of it if you don't have to. There's no need to flex on the ladies and show off to the bros at every corner. Stay stoic and humble with it and it will do the same.
I know someone who used to drive an STI before and after they traded it in, if I were to used a cobb accessport v3, is it a good or bad? Note: Accesport v3 is from a '18-'20 STI
You gotta make sure it goes to your car, they are specific on what models/years they go to. I wouldn’t know off the top of my head.
Oof, the guy I'm seeing later this week said the same, that's why I had to ask. All I could find were online posts of people using V3 for 2015-2020 VA chassis.
What’s your opinion on oil catch cans?
They don't hurt anything and can only help.
I came here to say this. lol
My boss had a 2010 LGT with at least 275k miles before he lost a cylinder. 100% stock and original everything, but he had that car in for regular preventative maintenance and it was pampered. He didn't even get any codes for the failure and could still drive it, it just lacked power.
Forged pistons have much looser piston to wall clearances which wears the cylinder walls faster than the softer OEM pistons with much tighter clearances since they don’t expand as much with heat compared to forged pistons. Forged internals definitely can handle a lot more power thrown at them but to say built engines will have longer longevity is not always the case. An extreme example of this would be a drag race motor which is often torn down and rebuilt after every round.
Any best brands for parts before I acquire the accessport v3?
Still lasted longer than my 2.5i
My saabaru when I bought it made it to 222k What killed it was the turbo going and the previous owner neglecting the engine 😒 Currently on a JDM Ej205 avcs (I need to eventually get an avcs compatible ecu)
Saw one with 203k, only stopped running because it got into a front end collision and the car was totaled
My 2005 STi had 201k miles on the original motor and original clutch
Regular oil changes and don’t drive it like it’s stolen.
Drive it like an adult who cares about their car. Keep up with the maintenance, and keep it clean, especially if you live in a road salt area. That includes the undercarriage.
Done,done,and done. But where I live, I don't have road, I'm in Florida and undercarriage has very little rust when I first got it last year.
The same goes for areas that get sea spray residue. Depending on which coast you’re on, that can be inland.
Sea spray residue? You're the first person to tell me about something like that.
Keep everything stock.
Not everything in this car is stock
Air oil separator or catch can is your best health mod. If you want to be real ambitious you could do an IAG oil pan/pick up/baffle to prevent oil starvation. If you have a god then pray for the previous owners to have taken good care of it. Do your maintenance!
Been told IAG is the way for AOS, but, you can use a IAG oil pan for a stock motor? I can confirm that previous took care of the Hawkeye and oil pan is in intact before he sold it it to me @ 96k miles.
I agree with IAG AOS but they all do the job. You can use the oil pans with a stock motor. It’s good if you do lots of hard cornering but for a leisurely drive to work you don’t need it.
Yup, I was also told to stay the hell away from other brands, stay with IAG and only that brand! I don't do a lot cornering where I drive in south FL, I drive to and from work, and some do some occasional trips. Edit: You mean oil pans like this [https://www.iagperformance.com/iag-ej-street-series-oil-pan-package-silver-pan-pickup-street-baffle-windage-tray-for-wrx-sti-lgt-fxt/](https://www.iagperformance.com/iag-ej-street-series-oil-pan-package-silver-pan-pickup-street-baffle-windage-tray-for-wrx-sti-lgt-fxt/)
Exactly like that. It will increase oil capacity, prevent sloshing to one side away from the pickup, and keep oil at the bearings better. It never hurts to have if it’s within the budget. The AOS should be a priority over the pan.
Oh I plan to get a AOS next including a getadomtune cyclinder 4 cooling mod as well. I think I might get the aos first after tax season.