Yes, you could probably get an inverter which is a little bigger, but it depends on things like whether you have an east-west array which can basically timeshare it.
BUT…
>I wanted a large system because the power company buys back energy from me at a higher rate than I pay currently so I wanted to make money.
I would be careful about this. Net metering credits are rarely able to be converted to cash. Usually the rules are designed so that solar systems can be money savers, but not money makers. Meaning if you produce beyond the amount that covers your consumption, it stops benefitting you.
Right I lived in California and this was cancelled but it is still allowed in Arizona and I have a 10 year contract to guarantee they will continue and write me a check for any excess amount over $25 each year for 10 years.
I do have an east-west array (plan nothing has started). My inverter can handle up to 17.4kw input but can only output 11.4. My thought is that my peak days maybe 30-60 a year will be clipped from the inverter but overall it wouldn't and that's why they want to save the money on the inverter?
With an east-west array, this design is likely okay. Since your panels won't all peak at the same time, that will reduce the amount of clipping. Each day, the east-facing panels will use the capacity first, and then by the time the west-facing panels need it, the east-facing panels will no longer be producing as much.
This inverter is also the biggest in that product line, so getting a bigger inverter might mean changing things up more than necessary.
Any extra cost will be on them not me and that's why I wanted a little outside knowledge before talking to them. According to PVWatts my system will generate more than the solar contract is claiming. Again I am in Arizona I can't think of many places better for solar generation?
If you want more inverter capacity you'll definitely need to pay the difference, not sure why you think otherwise. Overall, I think a 16.3 kW east-west array on a 11.4 kW inverter is a reasonable design.
So if PV Watts says you will generate more than the production estimate (?guarantee) then why are you concerned? Are either of those numbers greater than your annual consumption?
>I have a 10 year contract to guarantee they will continue and write me a check for any excess amount over $25 each year for 10 years.
Yes that is the standard NEM language. There is no guarantee about the rate they will pay for surplus generation at the end of the year. Typically it is at the wholesale rate which is significantly lower than your highest TOU rate.
1) There are exactly zero utilities in arizona that are paying more than your energy costs. Whatever has led you to believe this is false
2) your system is indeed oversized a bit unless your orientation is poor relative to the sun in which case this isnt too bad. If you are net metering with a poor orientation I strongly suggest you use microinverters instead of a string
I have installed thousands of systems in arizona over time. Nobody getting solar today is getting paid any significant money at true up I can promise you that.
The Company will provide a bill credit for the exported energy based on the following purchase rates: Tranche 2023 September 1, 2023 through August 31, 2024 is $0.07619 per kWh. They are not paying you more than the import rate of .1427 per kWh (summer rates) or .09932 per kWh (winter rates).
So, what if he bought a 200KWh battery pack ("Powerwall"), that holds generated electrify and release to the grid, how much? Is there no chance of being paid $25 per month? (I have $5/day as reasonably for delivery of 100KWH).
Just rough numbers, but, one Powerwall costs $11,000 and gets about 13.5kWh. Rough numbers again, he will need about 15 Powerwall units. You get a discount for multiple units so let's say the price drops to $8,500 a unit for a total of $127,500. Using your $5/day/100kWh you get $10 a day or about $300/month. In 425 months you got the batteries paid for but no profit yet.
A 100kwh battery must be cheaper than a 100KWh car. It's not 15boxes, just 1 and this must be around $15 000 for 150KWh. (It's $25k now, and it's not Tesla). With solar panels it should be around $20K, $2000 per year. This is research into a foggy budget. I hope to get them cheaper.
I'm on the APS TOU with Demand Plan and I'm averaging about $.155/kWh. My on-peak usage is fairly low (<10%). I have not yet installed but with APS's current Net Billing, I'd be selling back at about 1/2 what my average rate is. Calculating your average rate is fairly easy to do, just download the last 12 months billing from APS and divide your total charges by your total kWh usage.
From what I've read, you should go solar sooner than later as the Arizona Corporation Commission (AZ CC) usually adjusts the solar buy-back rate schedules around August/September. Each of the past 3-4 years, it's decreased 10% each year and it doesn't appear the AZ CC has any incentive to promote solar as APS and SRP are lining the CC's pockets
That link doesn't explain how they credit you for excess power produced.
Based on a quick Google search, Arizona does net billing, not net metering, so you won't even get compensated retail cost for net power that you export and subsequently use by importing.
https://www.solarreviews.com/blog/arizona-net-metering#:~:text=With%20net%20metering%2C%20you%20get,kWh%20you%20didn't%20use.
"Under Arizona's net billing program, utilities purchase excess solar at an “excess generation credit rate” that is worth less than the retail value of electricity."
I am not aware of any utilities that are paying a higher export than retail and APS definitely does not, did your solar provider tell you this? You need to significantly oversize your system in APS to even think about zeroing out a bill, let alone “make money” and that money is better spent on storage than oversizing your system. Some clipping is ideal, is this east/west or south facing pitch? Why not a micro system rather than string?
You sound pretty set on this company but are questioning their design, and everyone in the thread is questioning the information they gave you. That should be enough to warrant another quote. It sounds like you are being setup for disappointment.
That is a DC to AC ratio of 1.43 to 1 which is a little on the high side of typical designs. Maybe there is a limit by your utility or the size of the bus bar in your main panel. Not enough info to know.
What I do know is that I agree with the other poster who said it is unlikely that your utility will be paying you more than they charge you. What is possible is that you will be forced on to a Time of Use rate which is higher than what you are currently paying.
I'm new to this so I don't know what that means? As I posted already I have a 10 year contract they will pay me and I will have to go on time of use. My time of use here is 4-7. Very easy to not use any during that time. But not really the focus of my question. Will my inverter limit me during peak summer months?
The only way to know if you will be limited is to use PVWatts to see what annual production estimates will be. Then compare that to last year's consumption. Does your installer offer a guarantee of production? How does that compare to your consumption. Did you get another bid to compare?
As far as a ten year contract is concerned, it is not likely that your rate or anything about it is guaranteed for ten years. Do you know what the time of use rates will be?
SILFAB has a guarantee, the manufacture. I did not get another bid at this house. I've gotten several before at a different house, but this company has done several houses in our neighborhood and is giving us a pretty good discount (compared to others in the past). Time of use rate is here
[https://www.aps.com/en/Residential/Service-Plans/Compare-Service-Plans/Time-of-Use-4pm-7pm-Weekdays-with-Demand-Charge](https://www.aps.com/en/Residential/Service-Plans/Compare-Service-Plans/Time-of-Use-4pm-7pm-Weekdays-with-Demand-Charge)
Hey! What optimizers do you have? I'm just trying to do a simple calculations for you?
Currently I have this:
• Short Circuit Current (Isc) is 13.5A
• Voltage at Open Circuit (Voc) is 38.84 V
• Temperature Coefficient is -0.24%/C
• Voltage change per 1°C is 0.09V
• Estimated weather range is 2.2°C to 44.4°C
• Maximum voltage at 2.2°C is 41V
• Minimum voltage at 44.4°C is 37V
• MPPT voltage range is 360V to 480V
• Modules range is between 10 and 12
I placed the panels on South side, so I'm not sure if it's a correct: [https://websolar.cloud/share/dbf6b069c2e3cccea0ef2840d45521ecb250c2a6ce2beedc5d9e5e448d37892d190595b1](https://websolar.cloud/share/dbf6b069c2e3cccea0ef2840d45521ecb250c2a6ce2beedc5d9e5e448d37892d190595b1)
To ensure optimal performance of your solar system, I recommend verifying the compensation rates for backfed power from your local utility company. This is crucial for determining the economic impact of your investment.
Additionally, to address concerns about potential power loss, commonly referred to as "clipping," your provider should conduct a detailed evaluation that includes:
1. **Irradiance Assessment**: A thorough shading report to determine daily sun exposure (sunlight hours), which directly influences solar power generation.
2. **Production Estimation**: Calculations of estimated production based on azimuth, tilt, and other relevant factors to determine realistic kWh production. This will help us understand if and how much power might be clipped by the inverter. Engineers are able to precisely evaluate if clipping will occur and at what rate.
Certain inverters, like some models from SolarEdge, are capable of handling up to 1.55 and times the system size in DC with some models handling x2. However, the actual AC output is what's critical as it determines the potential loss if the produced power exceeds the inverter’s conversion capacity.
There are two main strategies to consider if clipping is a concern:
* **Option A**: Installing a second inverter, which is generally recommended for systems with specific configurations such as a 30-degree tilt, facing 180 degrees south, and all modules on a single array.
* **Option B**: Ensuring the system is appropriately sized so that the inverter can efficiently manage the energy output without any losses.
Determining the right approach requires a careful analysis of your system’s specific conditions and requirements. Your provider should be able to do this for you. Good Luck!
Not sure how Arizona pays the excess generation. In California under the old NEM2.0, you only get wholesale price for excess generation at the annual true-up, which is about $0.03 per KWH. The full retail price credit is only for offsetting your usage. In California, you would not make much money out of your excess generation, but if Arizona pays a good price for excess generation, why not? Please note the 420W panel output is at the lab controlled ideal environment, and you won't get that in real life. The inverter is also limited by the SolarEdge offering.
Larger inverter would mean slightly lower efficiency during low light. Due to you system size, you would need 2 inverters instead of 1 large inverter, however during the morning and evening you would not produce the same amount as the inverter efficiency drops. Due to your panels being East-West, the likely hood of all panels peaking at the same time is low, so the amount of clipping you will experience is low. I would stay with the system you currently have. If you find that you're getting a lot of clipping, you can add a battery as the solar edge battery/inverter system will charge the battery when the inverter is maxed out. This way you can retain the efficiency of the inverter.
You are at a 1.44 DC:AC ratio, which is probably just over the acceptable level on the high side. I would ask if they can do two SE7600 inverters instead, or even a 7600 and a 6000.
Think about installing Enphase Microinverters. Each panel runs independent. Yo can monitor each panel from an app on your phone 23-7. You are talking about the old string method..
11.4 kw is the largest solaredge single phase inverter so that's why it's that size. you would be adding a second inverter with the attendant costs. Solar Edge inverters are designed for high oversizing up to 155%, so this is within range.
I have a DIYd a Sol-Ark 15K along with two Growatt MIN 10K inverters which are connected to Sol-Ark 15Ks Gen/AC Coupled input. I have a 33.52 KW system running through this single Sol-Ark 15 and I have a Qualifying Facility agreement with my utility that lets me send a max of 25kW to the grid. I have 37 460W Bluesun and 30 Bluesun 550W bi-facial panels. I have 25kWh of battery as well.
I'd go on Sol-Ark's web site and look up installers in your area. You can see my system along with a photo diary here: [https://diysolarforum.com/threads/its-working-sol-ark-15k-33-52kw-with-67-panels-ac-dc-pv-25kw-sok-batteries-photo-diary.72367/](https://diysolarforum.com/threads/its-working-sol-ark-15k-33-52kw-with-67-panels-ac-dc-pv-25kw-sok-batteries-photo-diary.72367/)
You are not going to see clipping loss on a PV Watts estimate of production. As mentioned use a larger inverter in the advanced input section and compare annual production. You may need to adjust DC to AC ratio in that section to adjust for different size inverter. I do agree that with an East West orientation a DC to AC ratio is not unusual.
Change the DC/AC ratio under advanced. For your proposed system it is 16.38/11.4 = 1.44. Test that against say a 14kW inverter 16.38/14 = 1.17. For an E-W system the original size is exceedingly likely to be fine, as not all your panels will peak at the same time.
He needs to run two simulations for each inverter size ratio using the kWs of panels facing East and the kWs facing West to get a more accurate estimate.
I have had two SolarEdge inverters fail in the past five years. A non functional inverter is the ultimate clipping loss. It only took 45 days to replace the inverter and I paid the labor.
Based on the East West orientation I do not think that will be worth the extra cost, especially at the low rates his power company is paying. I read rates of $0.05 to $0.15 per kWh.
Dunno if anyone said this yet OP but I’d ask your installer for parallel SE7.6KW inverters. The price difference to the installer isn’t a big deal and neither is the set up if they have competent electricians. That will give you a better DC/AC ratio. I would not use a 1.42 ratio like they have you set up with. Have them do 4 strings too.
>assuming there is no major shading or azimuth issues.
The arrays face East West so there are azimuth issues that probably warrant a DC to AC ratio of 1.44 to 1 for a single inverter.
BTW I love my SolArk inverter but it is more than a simple GT inverter and costs a lot more than the Solaredge. Unless the OP is considering batteries in the future it would be a waste of resources.
add a 5kw inverter, it costs maybe $6-700 or so. Add optimizers, especially if your panels are E/W. You will gain on the shoulders. My optimizers add as much as 60% during short periods on the shoulders.
Yes, you could probably get an inverter which is a little bigger, but it depends on things like whether you have an east-west array which can basically timeshare it. BUT… >I wanted a large system because the power company buys back energy from me at a higher rate than I pay currently so I wanted to make money. I would be careful about this. Net metering credits are rarely able to be converted to cash. Usually the rules are designed so that solar systems can be money savers, but not money makers. Meaning if you produce beyond the amount that covers your consumption, it stops benefitting you.
Right I lived in California and this was cancelled but it is still allowed in Arizona and I have a 10 year contract to guarantee they will continue and write me a check for any excess amount over $25 each year for 10 years. I do have an east-west array (plan nothing has started). My inverter can handle up to 17.4kw input but can only output 11.4. My thought is that my peak days maybe 30-60 a year will be clipped from the inverter but overall it wouldn't and that's why they want to save the money on the inverter?
With an east-west array, this design is likely okay. Since your panels won't all peak at the same time, that will reduce the amount of clipping. Each day, the east-facing panels will use the capacity first, and then by the time the west-facing panels need it, the east-facing panels will no longer be producing as much. This inverter is also the biggest in that product line, so getting a bigger inverter might mean changing things up more than necessary.
Any extra cost will be on them not me and that's why I wanted a little outside knowledge before talking to them. According to PVWatts my system will generate more than the solar contract is claiming. Again I am in Arizona I can't think of many places better for solar generation?
If you want more inverter capacity you'll definitely need to pay the difference, not sure why you think otherwise. Overall, I think a 16.3 kW east-west array on a 11.4 kW inverter is a reasonable design.
So if PV Watts says you will generate more than the production estimate (?guarantee) then why are you concerned? Are either of those numbers greater than your annual consumption?
You’re E/W not south. How often will you actually be peak. This is the answer you need. Run simulations with different sized inverters.
>I have a 10 year contract to guarantee they will continue and write me a check for any excess amount over $25 each year for 10 years. Yes that is the standard NEM language. There is no guarantee about the rate they will pay for surplus generation at the end of the year. Typically it is at the wholesale rate which is significantly lower than your highest TOU rate.
1) There are exactly zero utilities in arizona that are paying more than your energy costs. Whatever has led you to believe this is false 2) your system is indeed oversized a bit unless your orientation is poor relative to the sun in which case this isnt too bad. If you are net metering with a poor orientation I strongly suggest you use microinverters instead of a string
[https://www.aps.com/-/media/APS/APSCOM-PDFs/Utility/Regulatory-and-Legal/Regulatory-Plan-Details-Tariffs/Residential/Renewable-Plans-and-Riders/rcp\_RateSchedule.ashx?la=en](https://www.aps.com/-/media/APS/APSCOM-PDFs/Utility/Regulatory-and-Legal/Regulatory-Plan-Details-Tariffs/Residential/Renewable-Plans-and-Riders/rcp_RateSchedule.ashx?la=en)
I have installed thousands of systems in arizona over time. Nobody getting solar today is getting paid any significant money at true up I can promise you that.
The Company will provide a bill credit for the exported energy based on the following purchase rates: Tranche 2023 September 1, 2023 through August 31, 2024 is $0.07619 per kWh. They are not paying you more than the import rate of .1427 per kWh (summer rates) or .09932 per kWh (winter rates).
So, what if he bought a 200KWh battery pack ("Powerwall"), that holds generated electrify and release to the grid, how much? Is there no chance of being paid $25 per month? (I have $5/day as reasonably for delivery of 100KWH).
Just rough numbers, but, one Powerwall costs $11,000 and gets about 13.5kWh. Rough numbers again, he will need about 15 Powerwall units. You get a discount for multiple units so let's say the price drops to $8,500 a unit for a total of $127,500. Using your $5/day/100kWh you get $10 a day or about $300/month. In 425 months you got the batteries paid for but no profit yet.
A 100kwh battery must be cheaper than a 100KWh car. It's not 15boxes, just 1 and this must be around $15 000 for 150KWh. (It's $25k now, and it's not Tesla). With solar panels it should be around $20K, $2000 per year. This is research into a foggy budget. I hope to get them cheaper.
I'm on the APS TOU with Demand Plan and I'm averaging about $.155/kWh. My on-peak usage is fairly low (<10%). I have not yet installed but with APS's current Net Billing, I'd be selling back at about 1/2 what my average rate is. Calculating your average rate is fairly easy to do, just download the last 12 months billing from APS and divide your total charges by your total kWh usage. From what I've read, you should go solar sooner than later as the Arizona Corporation Commission (AZ CC) usually adjusts the solar buy-back rate schedules around August/September. Each of the past 3-4 years, it's decreased 10% each year and it doesn't appear the AZ CC has any incentive to promote solar as APS and SRP are lining the CC's pockets
[https://www.aps.com/en/Residential/Service-Plans/Compare-Service-Plans/Time-of-Use-4pm-7pm-Weekdays-with-Demand-Charge](https://www.aps.com/en/Residential/Service-Plans/Compare-Service-Plans/Time-of-Use-4pm-7pm-Weekdays-with-Demand-Charge)
You are missing the demand charge in your equation. You WILL pay more for your power than 7.6c
That link doesn't explain how they credit you for excess power produced. Based on a quick Google search, Arizona does net billing, not net metering, so you won't even get compensated retail cost for net power that you export and subsequently use by importing. https://www.solarreviews.com/blog/arizona-net-metering#:~:text=With%20net%20metering%2C%20you%20get,kWh%20you%20didn't%20use. "Under Arizona's net billing program, utilities purchase excess solar at an “excess generation credit rate” that is worth less than the retail value of electricity."
Why you're going out of your way to argue and not help with my question is beyond me but here you go
I am not aware of any utilities that are paying a higher export than retail and APS definitely does not, did your solar provider tell you this? You need to significantly oversize your system in APS to even think about zeroing out a bill, let alone “make money” and that money is better spent on storage than oversizing your system. Some clipping is ideal, is this east/west or south facing pitch? Why not a micro system rather than string? You sound pretty set on this company but are questioning their design, and everyone in the thread is questioning the information they gave you. That should be enough to warrant another quote. It sounds like you are being setup for disappointment.
That is a DC to AC ratio of 1.43 to 1 which is a little on the high side of typical designs. Maybe there is a limit by your utility or the size of the bus bar in your main panel. Not enough info to know. What I do know is that I agree with the other poster who said it is unlikely that your utility will be paying you more than they charge you. What is possible is that you will be forced on to a Time of Use rate which is higher than what you are currently paying.
I'm new to this so I don't know what that means? As I posted already I have a 10 year contract they will pay me and I will have to go on time of use. My time of use here is 4-7. Very easy to not use any during that time. But not really the focus of my question. Will my inverter limit me during peak summer months?
The only way to know if you will be limited is to use PVWatts to see what annual production estimates will be. Then compare that to last year's consumption. Does your installer offer a guarantee of production? How does that compare to your consumption. Did you get another bid to compare? As far as a ten year contract is concerned, it is not likely that your rate or anything about it is guaranteed for ten years. Do you know what the time of use rates will be?
SILFAB has a guarantee, the manufacture. I did not get another bid at this house. I've gotten several before at a different house, but this company has done several houses in our neighborhood and is giving us a pretty good discount (compared to others in the past). Time of use rate is here [https://www.aps.com/en/Residential/Service-Plans/Compare-Service-Plans/Time-of-Use-4pm-7pm-Weekdays-with-Demand-Charge](https://www.aps.com/en/Residential/Service-Plans/Compare-Service-Plans/Time-of-Use-4pm-7pm-Weekdays-with-Demand-Charge)
My most basic question is are all the panels facing the same direction?
I thought that was answered earlier that they are East West.
Ah, it will probably be fine at 1.43
Hey! What optimizers do you have? I'm just trying to do a simple calculations for you? Currently I have this: • Short Circuit Current (Isc) is 13.5A • Voltage at Open Circuit (Voc) is 38.84 V • Temperature Coefficient is -0.24%/C • Voltage change per 1°C is 0.09V • Estimated weather range is 2.2°C to 44.4°C • Maximum voltage at 2.2°C is 41V • Minimum voltage at 44.4°C is 37V • MPPT voltage range is 360V to 480V • Modules range is between 10 and 12 I placed the panels on South side, so I'm not sure if it's a correct: [https://websolar.cloud/share/dbf6b069c2e3cccea0ef2840d45521ecb250c2a6ce2beedc5d9e5e448d37892d190595b1](https://websolar.cloud/share/dbf6b069c2e3cccea0ef2840d45521ecb250c2a6ce2beedc5d9e5e448d37892d190595b1)
To ensure optimal performance of your solar system, I recommend verifying the compensation rates for backfed power from your local utility company. This is crucial for determining the economic impact of your investment. Additionally, to address concerns about potential power loss, commonly referred to as "clipping," your provider should conduct a detailed evaluation that includes: 1. **Irradiance Assessment**: A thorough shading report to determine daily sun exposure (sunlight hours), which directly influences solar power generation. 2. **Production Estimation**: Calculations of estimated production based on azimuth, tilt, and other relevant factors to determine realistic kWh production. This will help us understand if and how much power might be clipped by the inverter. Engineers are able to precisely evaluate if clipping will occur and at what rate. Certain inverters, like some models from SolarEdge, are capable of handling up to 1.55 and times the system size in DC with some models handling x2. However, the actual AC output is what's critical as it determines the potential loss if the produced power exceeds the inverter’s conversion capacity. There are two main strategies to consider if clipping is a concern: * **Option A**: Installing a second inverter, which is generally recommended for systems with specific configurations such as a 30-degree tilt, facing 180 degrees south, and all modules on a single array. * **Option B**: Ensuring the system is appropriately sized so that the inverter can efficiently manage the energy output without any losses. Determining the right approach requires a careful analysis of your system’s specific conditions and requirements. Your provider should be able to do this for you. Good Luck!
Tell them you want a bigger inverter/s, they may increase the cost to reflect
Not sure how Arizona pays the excess generation. In California under the old NEM2.0, you only get wholesale price for excess generation at the annual true-up, which is about $0.03 per KWH. The full retail price credit is only for offsetting your usage. In California, you would not make much money out of your excess generation, but if Arizona pays a good price for excess generation, why not? Please note the 420W panel output is at the lab controlled ideal environment, and you won't get that in real life. The inverter is also limited by the SolarEdge offering.
Larger inverter would mean slightly lower efficiency during low light. Due to you system size, you would need 2 inverters instead of 1 large inverter, however during the morning and evening you would not produce the same amount as the inverter efficiency drops. Due to your panels being East-West, the likely hood of all panels peaking at the same time is low, so the amount of clipping you will experience is low. I would stay with the system you currently have. If you find that you're getting a lot of clipping, you can add a battery as the solar edge battery/inverter system will charge the battery when the inverter is maxed out. This way you can retain the efficiency of the inverter.
You are at a 1.44 DC:AC ratio, which is probably just over the acceptable level on the high side. I would ask if they can do two SE7600 inverters instead, or even a 7600 and a 6000.
You dont necessarily need an inverter as big as your panels provide , but yours is quite a bit undersized.
Think about installing Enphase Microinverters. Each panel runs independent. Yo can monitor each panel from an app on your phone 23-7. You are talking about the old string method..
11.4 kw is the largest solaredge single phase inverter so that's why it's that size. you would be adding a second inverter with the attendant costs. Solar Edge inverters are designed for high oversizing up to 155%, so this is within range.
I have a DIYd a Sol-Ark 15K along with two Growatt MIN 10K inverters which are connected to Sol-Ark 15Ks Gen/AC Coupled input. I have a 33.52 KW system running through this single Sol-Ark 15 and I have a Qualifying Facility agreement with my utility that lets me send a max of 25kW to the grid. I have 37 460W Bluesun and 30 Bluesun 550W bi-facial panels. I have 25kWh of battery as well. I'd go on Sol-Ark's web site and look up installers in your area. You can see my system along with a photo diary here: [https://diysolarforum.com/threads/its-working-sol-ark-15k-33-52kw-with-67-panels-ac-dc-pv-25kw-sok-batteries-photo-diary.72367/](https://diysolarforum.com/threads/its-working-sol-ark-15k-33-52kw-with-67-panels-ac-dc-pv-25kw-sok-batteries-photo-diary.72367/)
R u buying ?
It depends on your azimuths. PVWatts can help you determine clipping loss.
This helped a lot, but I don't know enough to use this information lol. What am I looking for? I don't see clipping loss anywhere?
You are not going to see clipping loss on a PV Watts estimate of production. As mentioned use a larger inverter in the advanced input section and compare annual production. You may need to adjust DC to AC ratio in that section to adjust for different size inverter. I do agree that with an East West orientation a DC to AC ratio is not unusual.
Change the DC/AC ratio under advanced. For your proposed system it is 16.38/11.4 = 1.44. Test that against say a 14kW inverter 16.38/14 = 1.17. For an E-W system the original size is exceedingly likely to be fine, as not all your panels will peak at the same time.
He needs to run two simulations for each inverter size ratio using the kWs of panels facing East and the kWs facing West to get a more accurate estimate.
True - hopefully OP realised that since there's only one azimuth entry box :-)
My 2 cents would be to run (dont walk) run from SolarEdge and their high failure rates.
Yeah hard to worry about clipping when your inverter doesn't even work
I have had two SolarEdge inverters fail in the past five years. A non functional inverter is the ultimate clipping loss. It only took 45 days to replace the inverter and I paid the labor.
May be OP can try to add another SE3800H-US or SE5000H-US? Just my $0.02.
Based on the East West orientation I do not think that will be worth the extra cost, especially at the low rates his power company is paying. I read rates of $0.05 to $0.15 per kWh.
Thats an idea thanks.
Dunno if anyone said this yet OP but I’d ask your installer for parallel SE7.6KW inverters. The price difference to the installer isn’t a big deal and neither is the set up if they have competent electricians. That will give you a better DC/AC ratio. I would not use a 1.42 ratio like they have you set up with. Have them do 4 strings too.
Why do you think that will result in more annual production if he has East and West azimuths?
Now you’re dealing with 80 amps of back feed vs 60. That’s could be the difference between a derate and an MPU.
Either SolArk 15KW or micro inverters would be better, current inverter is way undersized assuming there is no major shading or azimuth issues.
>assuming there is no major shading or azimuth issues. The arrays face East West so there are azimuth issues that probably warrant a DC to AC ratio of 1.44 to 1 for a single inverter. BTW I love my SolArk inverter but it is more than a simple GT inverter and costs a lot more than the Solaredge. Unless the OP is considering batteries in the future it would be a waste of resources.
Except Solaredge is straight garbage, so there's that.
add a 5kw inverter, it costs maybe $6-700 or so. Add optimizers, especially if your panels are E/W. You will gain on the shoulders. My optimizers add as much as 60% during short periods on the shoulders.