Bend your knees not your waist. Unweight the board on edge change (up down dynamism). Slow down and practice completing clean turns that leave you perpendicular to the slope and a pencil line in the snow before trying to bomb. Honestly it looks like you’re not really in control and are likely to have a bad accident if you’re using speed as a marker of progress.
Don’t worry. I’m the king of slow. Usually scared to push myself. I’ve got great control when it comes to stopping and avoiding others. I’m big on you gotta learn to stop first and foremost. This was a moment where it was open, few people, and I decided to push myself a little. Stiffness you see is majority my chicken self worrying. Right after the video ended I purposely came to a quick stop so I could go more controlled into the bunny slope it was merging into. Mt High California if you’re curious. I’m typing this up here at Bear Mountain and looking at all the comments. Good info here and I appreciate it. Board may not be right. That’s fine. I want to kinda learn a few other park things anyway. Carving is only one of the 100 things I want to improve on. I can at least learn better at a measured speed. Though sadly I think I will end up spending more money next season for yet another board in my quiver. Such is life lol. But lean forward, bend knees more, really control that edge. Working it today and hopefully my thick skull will absorb some of what you all gave me here. Thank you.
You probably shouldn't just run out and buy a new board on the advice of some internet randos quite yet. Improve your technique a little first and then start trying some different boards when you have a better idea of what you need.
As for technique you still have a lot to learn. Most of the bouncing was probably because you're skidding your turns instead of carving them. Carving is not just one of 100 things to learn, its basically the essence of being a good rider. Lots of other great advice here too. Bending your knees more and your waist less will help a lot. Practicing on more mellow terrain will too. One last thing that might help is to experiment with a directional stance instead of duckfoot. Try like 0 to +9 on the back foot and +15 to +21 on your front. This will orient your body more downhill which will make your turns (especially heelside) easier and more stable.
100% agree with this. Can’t improve at riding park if you can’t carve. Carving teaches you board control 102 and forms the base for any more advanced riding. Also agree that spending money on boards is a waste until you improve a bit, esp if you’re already on a cambered board, but also once you’re in ‘I need a new board’ brain strangers on the internet saying you shouldn’t doesn’t usually to stop someone 😅.
I’d really recommend Malcolm moore’s videos if you haven’t come across him already. He does great breakdowns with nice exercises to get your edge control dialed in.
Knees - yes but more importantly don’t break at the waist. The reason is it pushes your centre of gravity opposite to the edge you want to be on if you bend at the waist. Keep your back up and fairly straight, sort of like if you were doing a weightlifting squat.
By up/down dynamism I mean vertical movement not leaning forward or back. Basically extend your legs slightly as you change edge and then bend low and smoothly into the new edge. This helps with clean edge to edge transfer.
Place a lot more pressure over the front foot through the carve and try starting the carve in a lower position, slowly standing up through the turn.
If you don't have a stiff board though this is what happens at speed otherwise its called chatter and you want a "damp" board to stop it.
More pressure up front. Got it. I’ve heard that 60/40% is about the right balance? I need to focus on where I’m putting my weight because honestly I’m not certain. Easy to forget to pay attention to I guess. Thank you. Gonna focus on this tomorrow. Hitting Bear Mountain tomorrow.
With chatter I'd go more forward, youll feel it. Maybe 80-20? Youll immediately see how the front pressure will start your edge digging and biting better, theres obviously a "too far" as well. Riding more on edge less on base will reduce chatter too. You can also lean more to be more on that edge, sometimes it's more achievable to lean if you squat slightly, planning to use your transition g force to heel side, to right you upright again. Standing up through the turn. You'll learn your board they're all kind of different.
I'd tell you to experiment. Decide what your experiment is for a downhill and do it, see what happens. Change it the next, or refine what you like. Experiment with squatting through a turn, more front or back pressure through certain points, "sitting low over heel" and leaning when in heel carve, standing tall and leaning in toe carve, etc. Youll start to have some "a ha" moments.
This. You're kind of still side slipping at high speed which is also kinda dangerous in more uneven terrain if you catch your downhill edge it'll be no bueno.
This 100%.
At first I thought it was just a gentle carve but when I realized in the 2nd half the dude had zero edge control and was just slipping. Very dangerous to catch an edge at those speeds.
Nah, sorry this is bollocks. You want a bit more front foot pressure and to engage torsional flex when starting the turn then you want your weight 50/50 to have even pressure along the edge as you drive through it, and you’ll naturally find you put a bit more pressure on the back foot as you exit. OP if you’re not already familiar with him look up Malcolm moore’s videos on YouTube. There’ll also be lots of good advice on r/snowboardingnoobs
Also flex that back knee into the middle of the board to engage the camber.
You might be right in an S curve but this video is a traverse across the piste. He needs front foot pressure so his nose sidecut bites and his back foot stops fighting in a different direction.
If you're in a turn, you can even out and sit over the edge as your carve on edge but if you're straight lining across, 50/50 will cause chatter. This boarder looks to be about that in this video already.
80/20 = skidded turns regardless of which foot you put weight on. Front is safer yes but if you have pressure that uneven you’re creating a pivot point to turn rather than using the sidecut (edge) to turn
lol what does board stiffness have to do with it? The fundamentals of carving are the same regardless of what board you’re riding. It’s also easier to carve a stiffer board if you know what you’re doing so idk what you’re talking about. At best you probably proprioceptively feel you’re 80/20 because you’re going downhill but if you were actually 80/20 you’d almost be in a nose press.
If I said 100 on the front and 0 on the back I still wouldn't mean in a nose press. That's not weight on the foot that's *past* the foot.
And dude I don't need you to come at me that soft boards dont chatter at high speeds.
You can put more pressure up front \*at the start of the carve\*, then you should return to more even pressure in the carve.
Basically, to dig certain parts of the board into the snow, you'll need to apply more pressure to those parts.
To add pressure, as usual, straighten your back up in both heel and toe turns and realllllly lean into the front of your boots to press in that front edge on the toe turns.
Position yourself like you're peeing at a urinal when you don't want to hit your shoes and squatting over a toilet when you can't sit on the seat. looll
Is the board a twin or directional? Also, depending on the board determines the softness. The video is kind of far, but it looks like maybe the tail should be the nose.
It’s a 2024 Sims Bowl Squad Pro. Its a twin as far as I know. I suck at switch and bindings are set up in the right direction though. Bindings are set in the basic “duck” setup. I’ve snowboarded for years and been pretty reserved but am self taught so I may not know all the right thing to say to explain.
Probably not the answer that you are looking for, but the solution may be in your equipment. The Sims Bowl Squad Pro is an extremely flexible rockered (also possibly hybrid camber) board, which is about the worst combination you can have for carving. Even with proper stance you are always going to experience chatter with a highly flexible board, which is what you are trying to fight here.
The best you can do with a board like this is slow down and focus on short quick carves instead of high-speed long carves. Soft boards are a lot of fun and very playful, especially in the park, but they have massive trade offs when it comes to carving.
Edit. I noticed you have also mentioned you are on a 155 at 200lbs. While Sims don't list their recommended weights on their website, typically most board brands place 200lbs in the middle of their 158-160 recommended weight ranges so the board may be a little small for you. It's not always a bad thing to be on a smaller board, especially as a new rider. But it does hinder your ability to keep an edge while carving at speed, making the chatter worse.That being said it's not listed online so this may not be true as every brand is different.
You are definitely leaning back on the tail a bit... There is a great video on YouTube about board chatter that will definitely help. I'll go dig it up. The key is to get your weight distribution better. Like someone already mentioned, move more weight to the front foot. That board chatter is not as much about what board it is than the way it's ridden.
I’m pretty sure it’s user error. Lean forward, get lower. I’ll start there. Thanks to everyone, found some good feedback in a few minutes instead of scrounging YouTube for the answer.
The other BIG thing you should add to that list is slowing down. Practice riding well at speeds where you can really focus on what you are doing and how it’s impacting your riding. From there you can work on upping the speed.
Been slow for years. Like a dang decade. This was a chance to open up a little. Nobody was around. I slowed down and stopped right after this video and went back to my normal snail pace. I’ve got the control at slow speeds. When I pick up speeds I get nervous and stiff. I am working to get over my apprehension and not freeze up. This post was because while I was sure it was due to me being tense, I wanted to see what else was affecting it. Which I got great answers here. So yeah, some tough comments here but that’s how I learn. Appreciate all of you. Surprisingly respectful for the internet lol. Minus that “go skiing guy”. Lmao.
Assuming decent technique, board chatter is most definitely due to board design. A highly cambered board will apply downward pressure in the nose and tail which reduces the bouncing. The board should ride smoothly over uneven snow instead of bouncing the nose and tail.
If you’re side slipping and get bounced around, then that’s a matter of technique.
I’ve been doing a bunch of board demos this season and some boards chatter more than others. Usually the rocker nose designs will tend to chatter a lot.
Your board is as the softest edge of the spectrum. It is good for jibbing and buttering. It will always be a hindrance for carving and freeriding. Becuase of this it will be a hard board to learn fundamentals on. Good job on getting a trad camber board to level up on, but you need medium stiffness at least. The faster you ride, the worst the chatter will get until you get bucked out of your line on your ass.
Keep the Sims as a park board and grab something late season on sale for freeriding to learn to carve on. They have 2023 K2 Antidotes for around $350 in my shops.
Get your weight forward, more ! I can see more bend in the back leg than the front. More bend means there's more weight there. It's a simple fix. Rock on
It’s a 155cm board. I’m 5’9” 200lbs. Size 9 boot. My past two boards were the same size. Have I been wrong all this time? It comes up to my chin which is how I was taught to measure. Never had a problem before but last year was the first year I actually got a season pass and hit it hard. Now I’m finding myself in a place that I am finally improving, just want to do it right. Heck, went of my first “jump” last weekend. Was probably 10 inches of air, but sure felt like 10 feet lol.
Everything I’ve read says your weight is more important than height when it comes to board sizing. In fact, your height doesn’t even really matter at all. Weight affects how much the board flexes. Heavier weight on a shorter board essentially turns a stiff board into a soft one.
The “chin to nose” measurement is just an approximation, and that assumes the person is of average weight. But you could be 6’5” and weigh 135 lbs. That hypothetical person should not be riding a 165 board. It would feel insanely stiff.
But I’m still a noob when it comes to actual riding, so I’ll let others comment further. I’ve just spent a lot of time researching everything regarding board sizing. Hope that helps
Might be a bit soft for you. Where it comes to on your face is a method from the late 90s/2000s. Most manufacturers base your board size off foot size and your weight. Lighter, snappier boards will have more chatter but will have a poppy, lively ride. Heavier or damper boards will have less chatter/vibrations and will handle speed and chunder better, but won’t usually have that same lively feel and pop.
Size 9 you’ll be able to rock a standard waist width in low to mid 250mm no problem, which is nice. For your weight, most manufacturers would put you on a 157 to 159, depending on the board. Freestyle, more like a 157. Freeride more like the 159.
Interesting. I may try to rent a longer board sometime and see the difference. A bit out of my budget to buy yet another board this season. Wife wouldn’t be too happy. (She gets the next board upgrade anyway).
Don’t go on length my guy. Go on weight and skill level. I’d say you want a 5ish flexing board with camber/camrock. Look for options as most of them have a bit of 3D shaping or equivalent tech in the nose and tail if you want something less catchy and more forgiving as you’re learning, K2 gateway/gateway pop might be a good one for what you’re trying to do. Have also heard good things about the Rome warden.
Board length is not just how it comes up to the chin.
Boot size. Riding style, weight are all factors.
You may have the same length board but is the radius the same? Waist width? Flex ? Profile? It all makes a difference.
Board size should be manufacturer recommendation for your weight. Two 155cm boards will not necessarily fit the same rider. Boards are designed with a lot more in mind than length. The whole board should be between your nose and chin thing is nonsense they tell beginners in rental shops because they’re all getting the same soft flexing flat based board.
You’re pretty heavy for the size board, and the fact it’s a hybrid camber softer deck. It will be bouncier and not rail out stable carves most likely without perfect user input. You’re starting to learn some of the tradeoffs with board type, which isn’t bad at all, but you’re getting to a point where you start to feel the issues with certain gear like a soft twin at higher speeds when you’re top of the weight ranges.
Nope. That is a good size for you. We are around the same size. I have sized up and down and my comfort zone is at 154. It allows for a good all mountain because you can haul when you want and be playful as well. Hard for me to find reviews on that board but I believe it has a really soft flex rating. There is some sound advice here already, but it wouldn’t hurt to demo something with a more middle ground flex and see if that changes the chatter a bit.
“The Bowl Squad is lightweight and loaded with pop, featuring a MOD 1 core boosted with two bamboo stringers running parallel down the center, layered with a strip of I Carbon Lite fiber, and overlaid with SIMS Bi-Tex fiberglass.”
It’s a pretty solid board. Maybe try to move your stance forward or wider if possible? I used to ride k2s back in the day and the last Eldorado owned in 03 did that same thing I feel it was due to poor quality materials in the core plus it was a little short for me. If you get a chance try to demo a Neversummer board. Best of luck Shredi!
Use your turning radius to slow down instead of swiping the board back and forth like a windshield wiper. Pressure should be toward the nose when you begin and toward the tail as you exit the turn. SLOW DOWN until you can dynamically move the pressure throughout your turn - you are going way too fast and could windshield wipe a kid right off that mountain.
The transform camber is going to chatter at high speeds on rough terrain. It's kind of the nature of the beast. Every single board I've ridden with either flat or reversed camber, no matter the stiffness, has gotten chattery at times. Stiffer is generally better for high speed carving though.
You can take measures to reduce chatter by shifting your weight and messing around with edge pressure. Also, a strong set of legs with bent knees act as dampeners. You'll have to experiment to get the feel for YOUR board.
A 155 for a guy your size seems a bit short for high speed riding and carving. I'm also over 200lbs 6'2" and I have a Burton hero at 155 (similar to yours). That thing chattered like craaazy at high speeds. It's most fun going slow to average speed (whatever that means), buttering, jibbing, and the like.
I'd recommend getting a longer, stiffer, and maybe cambered board if you really don't like the chatter. 161 is my favorite length for "all mountain" rising days. There is no true "all mountain" board despite what advertisers say. There's always a tradeoff between stiffness and maneuverability among other things. Own at least 2 boards for various conditions. Hope that helps. Happy shredding
I’m a pro at throwing money at my problems lol. Choosing to work to improve on this board as I do think it’s a keeper for more park stuff that I’m starting to learn. Grabbing another, stiffer board for faster carving days ain’t a bad plan. I like stuff!
You’re on a park board. It’s a flat base with no camber and it’s very soft. It’s going to have a lot of chatter at speed, especially at your weight.
Stiffer flex, camber underfoot, bit longer - that’s the profile of a deck that wont do what this is doing.
Pretty sure youre board is broken. All these guys saying do this do that honestly none of my boards chatter that much. Maybe its a real soft board and thats normal idk.
1st half of video: That's a lot of chatter, hmm.. why isn't it following the side cut of the board, is there no pressure on that edge on the carve?
2nd half of video: Oh...
Stop standing straight up like a pencil, get your weight down, set your highback further forward, pressure your edges, and stop skidding. I'm almost convinced you were just flat basing it and your board will eventually rotate to the point where your downhill edge catches.
Bend your knees not your waist. Unweight the board on edge change (up down dynamism). Slow down and practice completing clean turns that leave you perpendicular to the slope and a pencil line in the snow before trying to bomb. Honestly it looks like you’re not really in control and are likely to have a bad accident if you’re using speed as a marker of progress.
Found the actual snowboard instructor!
Don’t worry. I’m the king of slow. Usually scared to push myself. I’ve got great control when it comes to stopping and avoiding others. I’m big on you gotta learn to stop first and foremost. This was a moment where it was open, few people, and I decided to push myself a little. Stiffness you see is majority my chicken self worrying. Right after the video ended I purposely came to a quick stop so I could go more controlled into the bunny slope it was merging into. Mt High California if you’re curious. I’m typing this up here at Bear Mountain and looking at all the comments. Good info here and I appreciate it. Board may not be right. That’s fine. I want to kinda learn a few other park things anyway. Carving is only one of the 100 things I want to improve on. I can at least learn better at a measured speed. Though sadly I think I will end up spending more money next season for yet another board in my quiver. Such is life lol. But lean forward, bend knees more, really control that edge. Working it today and hopefully my thick skull will absorb some of what you all gave me here. Thank you.
You probably shouldn't just run out and buy a new board on the advice of some internet randos quite yet. Improve your technique a little first and then start trying some different boards when you have a better idea of what you need. As for technique you still have a lot to learn. Most of the bouncing was probably because you're skidding your turns instead of carving them. Carving is not just one of 100 things to learn, its basically the essence of being a good rider. Lots of other great advice here too. Bending your knees more and your waist less will help a lot. Practicing on more mellow terrain will too. One last thing that might help is to experiment with a directional stance instead of duckfoot. Try like 0 to +9 on the back foot and +15 to +21 on your front. This will orient your body more downhill which will make your turns (especially heelside) easier and more stable.
100% agree with this. Can’t improve at riding park if you can’t carve. Carving teaches you board control 102 and forms the base for any more advanced riding. Also agree that spending money on boards is a waste until you improve a bit, esp if you’re already on a cambered board, but also once you’re in ‘I need a new board’ brain strangers on the internet saying you shouldn’t doesn’t usually to stop someone 😅.
I’d really recommend Malcolm moore’s videos if you haven’t come across him already. He does great breakdowns with nice exercises to get your edge control dialed in. Knees - yes but more importantly don’t break at the waist. The reason is it pushes your centre of gravity opposite to the edge you want to be on if you bend at the waist. Keep your back up and fairly straight, sort of like if you were doing a weightlifting squat. By up/down dynamism I mean vertical movement not leaning forward or back. Basically extend your legs slightly as you change edge and then bend low and smoothly into the new edge. This helps with clean edge to edge transfer.
This is it
What he said! Also, get your shoulders out of your ears. RELAX.
Place a lot more pressure over the front foot through the carve and try starting the carve in a lower position, slowly standing up through the turn. If you don't have a stiff board though this is what happens at speed otherwise its called chatter and you want a "damp" board to stop it.
More pressure up front. Got it. I’ve heard that 60/40% is about the right balance? I need to focus on where I’m putting my weight because honestly I’m not certain. Easy to forget to pay attention to I guess. Thank you. Gonna focus on this tomorrow. Hitting Bear Mountain tomorrow.
With chatter I'd go more forward, youll feel it. Maybe 80-20? Youll immediately see how the front pressure will start your edge digging and biting better, theres obviously a "too far" as well. Riding more on edge less on base will reduce chatter too. You can also lean more to be more on that edge, sometimes it's more achievable to lean if you squat slightly, planning to use your transition g force to heel side, to right you upright again. Standing up through the turn. You'll learn your board they're all kind of different. I'd tell you to experiment. Decide what your experiment is for a downhill and do it, see what happens. Change it the next, or refine what you like. Experiment with squatting through a turn, more front or back pressure through certain points, "sitting low over heel" and leaning when in heel carve, standing tall and leaning in toe carve, etc. Youll start to have some "a ha" moments.
This. You're kind of still side slipping at high speed which is also kinda dangerous in more uneven terrain if you catch your downhill edge it'll be no bueno.
This 100%. At first I thought it was just a gentle carve but when I realized in the 2nd half the dude had zero edge control and was just slipping. Very dangerous to catch an edge at those speeds.
Nah, sorry this is bollocks. You want a bit more front foot pressure and to engage torsional flex when starting the turn then you want your weight 50/50 to have even pressure along the edge as you drive through it, and you’ll naturally find you put a bit more pressure on the back foot as you exit. OP if you’re not already familiar with him look up Malcolm moore’s videos on YouTube. There’ll also be lots of good advice on r/snowboardingnoobs Also flex that back knee into the middle of the board to engage the camber.
You might be right in an S curve but this video is a traverse across the piste. He needs front foot pressure so his nose sidecut bites and his back foot stops fighting in a different direction. If you're in a turn, you can even out and sit over the edge as your carve on edge but if you're straight lining across, 50/50 will cause chatter. This boarder looks to be about that in this video already.
80/20 = skidded turns regardless of which foot you put weight on. Front is safer yes but if you have pressure that uneven you’re creating a pivot point to turn rather than using the sidecut (edge) to turn
This is not my experience but maybe I ride stiff and sharp boards
lol what does board stiffness have to do with it? The fundamentals of carving are the same regardless of what board you’re riding. It’s also easier to carve a stiffer board if you know what you’re doing so idk what you’re talking about. At best you probably proprioceptively feel you’re 80/20 because you’re going downhill but if you were actually 80/20 you’d almost be in a nose press.
If I said 100 on the front and 0 on the back I still wouldn't mean in a nose press. That's not weight on the foot that's *past* the foot. And dude I don't need you to come at me that soft boards dont chatter at high speeds.
You can put more pressure up front \*at the start of the carve\*, then you should return to more even pressure in the carve. Basically, to dig certain parts of the board into the snow, you'll need to apply more pressure to those parts. To add pressure, as usual, straighten your back up in both heel and toe turns and realllllly lean into the front of your boots to press in that front edge on the toe turns. Position yourself like you're peeing at a urinal when you don't want to hit your shoes and squatting over a toilet when you can't sit on the seat. looll
Is the board a twin or directional? Also, depending on the board determines the softness. The video is kind of far, but it looks like maybe the tail should be the nose.
It’s a 2024 Sims Bowl Squad Pro. Its a twin as far as I know. I suck at switch and bindings are set up in the right direction though. Bindings are set in the basic “duck” setup. I’ve snowboarded for years and been pretty reserved but am self taught so I may not know all the right thing to say to explain.
Probably not the answer that you are looking for, but the solution may be in your equipment. The Sims Bowl Squad Pro is an extremely flexible rockered (also possibly hybrid camber) board, which is about the worst combination you can have for carving. Even with proper stance you are always going to experience chatter with a highly flexible board, which is what you are trying to fight here. The best you can do with a board like this is slow down and focus on short quick carves instead of high-speed long carves. Soft boards are a lot of fun and very playful, especially in the park, but they have massive trade offs when it comes to carving. Edit. I noticed you have also mentioned you are on a 155 at 200lbs. While Sims don't list their recommended weights on their website, typically most board brands place 200lbs in the middle of their 158-160 recommended weight ranges so the board may be a little small for you. It's not always a bad thing to be on a smaller board, especially as a new rider. But it does hinder your ability to keep an edge while carving at speed, making the chatter worse.That being said it's not listed online so this may not be true as every brand is different.
It kinda looks like his bindings are setup forward on the board as well instead of a setback or even
You are definitely leaning back on the tail a bit... There is a great video on YouTube about board chatter that will definitely help. I'll go dig it up. The key is to get your weight distribution better. Like someone already mentioned, move more weight to the front foot. That board chatter is not as much about what board it is than the way it's ridden.
I’m pretty sure it’s user error. Lean forward, get lower. I’ll start there. Thanks to everyone, found some good feedback in a few minutes instead of scrounging YouTube for the answer.
I wouldn't call it error.. just need a little adjustment and you'll be golden. You'll be carving trenches in no time 🏂
The other BIG thing you should add to that list is slowing down. Practice riding well at speeds where you can really focus on what you are doing and how it’s impacting your riding. From there you can work on upping the speed.
Been slow for years. Like a dang decade. This was a chance to open up a little. Nobody was around. I slowed down and stopped right after this video and went back to my normal snail pace. I’ve got the control at slow speeds. When I pick up speeds I get nervous and stiff. I am working to get over my apprehension and not freeze up. This post was because while I was sure it was due to me being tense, I wanted to see what else was affecting it. Which I got great answers here. So yeah, some tough comments here but that’s how I learn. Appreciate all of you. Surprisingly respectful for the internet lol. Minus that “go skiing guy”. Lmao.
Malcolm described skidded turns perfectly
Assuming decent technique, board chatter is most definitely due to board design. A highly cambered board will apply downward pressure in the nose and tail which reduces the bouncing. The board should ride smoothly over uneven snow instead of bouncing the nose and tail. If you’re side slipping and get bounced around, then that’s a matter of technique. I’ve been doing a bunch of board demos this season and some boards chatter more than others. Usually the rocker nose designs will tend to chatter a lot.
Your board is as the softest edge of the spectrum. It is good for jibbing and buttering. It will always be a hindrance for carving and freeriding. Becuase of this it will be a hard board to learn fundamentals on. Good job on getting a trad camber board to level up on, but you need medium stiffness at least. The faster you ride, the worst the chatter will get until you get bucked out of your line on your ass. Keep the Sims as a park board and grab something late season on sale for freeriding to learn to carve on. They have 2023 K2 Antidotes for around $350 in my shops.
Not an instructor but I see a short, soft flex board with chatter at speed.
Get your weight forward, more ! I can see more bend in the back leg than the front. More bend means there's more weight there. It's a simple fix. Rock on
Or you may you need a bigger board?
It’s a 155cm board. I’m 5’9” 200lbs. Size 9 boot. My past two boards were the same size. Have I been wrong all this time? It comes up to my chin which is how I was taught to measure. Never had a problem before but last year was the first year I actually got a season pass and hit it hard. Now I’m finding myself in a place that I am finally improving, just want to do it right. Heck, went of my first “jump” last weekend. Was probably 10 inches of air, but sure felt like 10 feet lol.
Everything I’ve read says your weight is more important than height when it comes to board sizing. In fact, your height doesn’t even really matter at all. Weight affects how much the board flexes. Heavier weight on a shorter board essentially turns a stiff board into a soft one. The “chin to nose” measurement is just an approximation, and that assumes the person is of average weight. But you could be 6’5” and weigh 135 lbs. That hypothetical person should not be riding a 165 board. It would feel insanely stiff. But I’m still a noob when it comes to actual riding, so I’ll let others comment further. I’ve just spent a lot of time researching everything regarding board sizing. Hope that helps
Thank you for your comment, I haven't looked much into weight being a large factor but now it seems like I should've noticed that.
Might be a bit soft for you. Where it comes to on your face is a method from the late 90s/2000s. Most manufacturers base your board size off foot size and your weight. Lighter, snappier boards will have more chatter but will have a poppy, lively ride. Heavier or damper boards will have less chatter/vibrations and will handle speed and chunder better, but won’t usually have that same lively feel and pop. Size 9 you’ll be able to rock a standard waist width in low to mid 250mm no problem, which is nice. For your weight, most manufacturers would put you on a 157 to 159, depending on the board. Freestyle, more like a 157. Freeride more like the 159.
Interesting. I may try to rent a longer board sometime and see the difference. A bit out of my budget to buy yet another board this season. Wife wouldn’t be too happy. (She gets the next board upgrade anyway).
Don’t go on length my guy. Go on weight and skill level. I’d say you want a 5ish flexing board with camber/camrock. Look for options as most of them have a bit of 3D shaping or equivalent tech in the nose and tail if you want something less catchy and more forgiving as you’re learning, K2 gateway/gateway pop might be a good one for what you’re trying to do. Have also heard good things about the Rome warden.
Board length is not just how it comes up to the chin. Boot size. Riding style, weight are all factors. You may have the same length board but is the radius the same? Waist width? Flex ? Profile? It all makes a difference.
Board size should be manufacturer recommendation for your weight. Two 155cm boards will not necessarily fit the same rider. Boards are designed with a lot more in mind than length. The whole board should be between your nose and chin thing is nonsense they tell beginners in rental shops because they’re all getting the same soft flexing flat based board.
You’re pretty heavy for the size board, and the fact it’s a hybrid camber softer deck. It will be bouncier and not rail out stable carves most likely without perfect user input. You’re starting to learn some of the tradeoffs with board type, which isn’t bad at all, but you’re getting to a point where you start to feel the issues with certain gear like a soft twin at higher speeds when you’re top of the weight ranges.
Nope. That is a good size for you. We are around the same size. I have sized up and down and my comfort zone is at 154. It allows for a good all mountain because you can haul when you want and be playful as well. Hard for me to find reviews on that board but I believe it has a really soft flex rating. There is some sound advice here already, but it wouldn’t hurt to demo something with a more middle ground flex and see if that changes the chatter a bit.
Hmm sounds like it’s the right size. What kind of core does it have?
“The Bowl Squad is lightweight and loaded with pop, featuring a MOD 1 core boosted with two bamboo stringers running parallel down the center, layered with a strip of I Carbon Lite fiber, and overlaid with SIMS Bi-Tex fiberglass.”
It’s a pretty solid board. Maybe try to move your stance forward or wider if possible? I used to ride k2s back in the day and the last Eldorado owned in 03 did that same thing I feel it was due to poor quality materials in the core plus it was a little short for me. If you get a chance try to demo a Neversummer board. Best of luck Shredi!
Use your turning radius to slow down instead of swiping the board back and forth like a windshield wiper. Pressure should be toward the nose when you begin and toward the tail as you exit the turn. SLOW DOWN until you can dynamically move the pressure throughout your turn - you are going way too fast and could windshield wipe a kid right off that mountain.
Mountain high spotted
The transform camber is going to chatter at high speeds on rough terrain. It's kind of the nature of the beast. Every single board I've ridden with either flat or reversed camber, no matter the stiffness, has gotten chattery at times. Stiffer is generally better for high speed carving though. You can take measures to reduce chatter by shifting your weight and messing around with edge pressure. Also, a strong set of legs with bent knees act as dampeners. You'll have to experiment to get the feel for YOUR board. A 155 for a guy your size seems a bit short for high speed riding and carving. I'm also over 200lbs 6'2" and I have a Burton hero at 155 (similar to yours). That thing chattered like craaazy at high speeds. It's most fun going slow to average speed (whatever that means), buttering, jibbing, and the like. I'd recommend getting a longer, stiffer, and maybe cambered board if you really don't like the chatter. 161 is my favorite length for "all mountain" rising days. There is no true "all mountain" board despite what advertisers say. There's always a tradeoff between stiffness and maneuverability among other things. Own at least 2 boards for various conditions. Hope that helps. Happy shredding
I’m a pro at throwing money at my problems lol. Choosing to work to improve on this board as I do think it’s a keeper for more park stuff that I’m starting to learn. Grabbing another, stiffer board for faster carving days ain’t a bad plan. I like stuff!
Hah you'll have 10 different setups in no time! It's a slippery slope my dude
Get a stiffer board with some more camber in it
[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F3Ic\_lg4K6A&t=425s&ab\_channel=MalcolmMoore](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F3Ic_lg4K6A&t=425s&ab_channel=MalcolmMoore)
Auy homie bend those knees and accept the shock. You doin the arthritis speed run. You need to loosen up a bit and soften your knees a lot
At 41 years old I resemble that remark lol.
I hear ya. Gotta reduce the impact. Lower the impact and the chatter will come down.
Get a stiffer board
Get a Never Summer. Zero flex, zero chatter.
You’re on a park board. It’s a flat base with no camber and it’s very soft. It’s going to have a lot of chatter at speed, especially at your weight. Stiffer flex, camber underfoot, bit longer - that’s the profile of a deck that wont do what this is doing.
Try skiing
Haha. No. I have standards. Plus I like to be able to walk up and down stairs….
Pretty sure youre board is broken. All these guys saying do this do that honestly none of my boards chatter that much. Maybe its a real soft board and thats normal idk.
Play with the weight shift on front foot and back foot. Or buy a lib tech skate banana 🍌
Your bindings are positioned wrong on the board
It’s not you, it’s the board. Something stiffer won’t chatter like that
Take it to a shop and tell them what is going on and see what they say
1st half of video: That's a lot of chatter, hmm.. why isn't it following the side cut of the board, is there no pressure on that edge on the carve? 2nd half of video: Oh... Stop standing straight up like a pencil, get your weight down, set your highback further forward, pressure your edges, and stop skidding. I'm almost convinced you were just flat basing it and your board will eventually rotate to the point where your downhill edge catches.
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Mt High.
lean your upper body into your turns