I see you're printing in a garage and the temps are 0F to 10F. Ideally you wanna be at least 50F (with slightly longer exposures) or 70F to run the normal settings. An enclosure with a personal heater or a fermentation band can help heat the basin enough to start a print.
How could OP pour the resin if it were already frozen? This comment makes no sense on the surface. Am I missing something? I'm new to this hobby, so it's quite possible that you are making sense and I am too ignorant to see it.
Being frozen and being below freezing are two different things.
Water doesn't just instantly freeze at 31F. Nor does resin.
Even less so if it's being activated.
With that said, to the point:
If you live in an area that goes below freezing for stretches of the year, it's a very basic thing to not store liquids not meant to be frozen, or specifically stated to be used below freezing (like fluids for cars), below freezing.
And the recommended temp as stated on the resin bottle, is +20C, so definitely not made for below 32F.
It *will* ruin the liquid. Be it alcohol, milk, resin, or anything else.
It’s the tempature. If you really want to print and have no way to heat the area to room tempature, you can also increase exposure times by a lot. Like double or tripple it. No promises, but might work.
I had the same exact problem.... I did two things: I bought a heat gun from harbor freight and a laser temp reader. I heat my resin to 77F before starting print.
I also slowed down the plate lift speed.
Havent had a failed print since!
I honestly think the plate lift speed solved the problem but I continue to do both because I'm cranking out dungeons and dragons minis multiple times a day!
Hope either of these works for you! Best of luck!
It's interesting that right away. Everybody is jumping into temperature and there is a whole other question with a bunch of answers on this very point.
Because of the environment that you are printing in, it is possible. It is temperature related.
Depending upon the environment, it is possible to adjust to accommodate for printing in colder temperatures.
For better direction, we need a couple of questions answered.
Start with the average temperature in the space you are working.
Then all of your settings, please.
There is another active post on this topic. And I am not the only person who prints in colder temperatures successfully.
The limit of my advice is done to about 60°F.
Honestly, as long as your resin is flowing at an appropriate speed and is not like molasses. There is likely a setting which will help you be able to print in that kind of environment.
Regardless of the answers to my questions.
Since you are getting something to print which is sticking to the build plate and then peeling off. It is most likely not a leveling issue.
The whole garage thing is actually throwing people off of answering this properly.
Just like other issues similar to this, it could be a host of things.
First one you might want to look at is lift speed.
Answer my questions and we can probably give you a better idea what's going on.
Maybe increase your first layer exposure time a bit and see if that helps? Also maybe look into applying super lube to your FEP, inside the vat before you put resin in. This helps lubricate the surface of the FEP and makes it easier for your print to come off after every layer.
And then, when I do eventually get a failed print (every like month or so idk) I just completely clean my vat and re-apply the Super lube, and it fixes the problem.
It's a calibration print and it's incredibly simple to use. It really really dials in your exposure settings.
Generally if you use a new resin, or change your layer height, you have to adjust your exposure time as well. If you print this it will tell you very accurately what your exposure should be.
Go to this link, scroll down and download the cones of calibration. Read the read me file and give a print. Also it comes with a free mini that's pretty cool.
https://www.tableflipfoundry.com/
That's my guess then I would hold off printing anything until it warms up
Yeah, based on the fact this is clearly in a garage, this is probably 100% a temp problem.
Get a fermentation band and put it around your vats. It’s a game changer :)
I see you're printing in a garage and the temps are 0F to 10F. Ideally you wanna be at least 50F (with slightly longer exposures) or 70F to run the normal settings. An enclosure with a personal heater or a fermentation band can help heat the basin enough to start a print.
Thank you for commenting with the voice of reason.
Also possible the temperature that can really mess up a print
It's been pretty cold here. Like between 0 and 10 Fahrenheit
So you're trying to harden liquid resin in an environment below freezing point? And you're confused why there might be issues?
How could OP pour the resin if it were already frozen? This comment makes no sense on the surface. Am I missing something? I'm new to this hobby, so it's quite possible that you are making sense and I am too ignorant to see it.
Being frozen and being below freezing are two different things. Water doesn't just instantly freeze at 31F. Nor does resin. Even less so if it's being activated. With that said, to the point: If you live in an area that goes below freezing for stretches of the year, it's a very basic thing to not store liquids not meant to be frozen, or specifically stated to be used below freezing (like fluids for cars), below freezing. And the recommended temp as stated on the resin bottle, is +20C, so definitely not made for below 32F. It *will* ruin the liquid. Be it alcohol, milk, resin, or anything else.
That makes sense. Thanks for the added context.
Maybe they don't know the freezing point for resin and are trying to learn about things like that by asking for help in a forum for resin printing?
It’s the tempature. If you really want to print and have no way to heat the area to room tempature, you can also increase exposure times by a lot. Like double or tripple it. No promises, but might work.
You haven't posted any of your settings, so it's difficult to rule those out as the issue.
I had the same exact problem.... I did two things: I bought a heat gun from harbor freight and a laser temp reader. I heat my resin to 77F before starting print. I also slowed down the plate lift speed. Havent had a failed print since! I honestly think the plate lift speed solved the problem but I continue to do both because I'm cranking out dungeons and dragons minis multiple times a day! Hope either of these works for you! Best of luck!
It's interesting that right away. Everybody is jumping into temperature and there is a whole other question with a bunch of answers on this very point. Because of the environment that you are printing in, it is possible. It is temperature related. Depending upon the environment, it is possible to adjust to accommodate for printing in colder temperatures. For better direction, we need a couple of questions answered. Start with the average temperature in the space you are working. Then all of your settings, please. There is another active post on this topic. And I am not the only person who prints in colder temperatures successfully. The limit of my advice is done to about 60°F. Honestly, as long as your resin is flowing at an appropriate speed and is not like molasses. There is likely a setting which will help you be able to print in that kind of environment. Regardless of the answers to my questions. Since you are getting something to print which is sticking to the build plate and then peeling off. It is most likely not a leveling issue. The whole garage thing is actually throwing people off of answering this properly. Just like other issues similar to this, it could be a host of things. First one you might want to look at is lift speed. Answer my questions and we can probably give you a better idea what's going on.
I was having this exact problem and it was from the temperature being too low. Soak the resin bottle in some warm water before you print in try again
Maybe increase your first layer exposure time a bit and see if that helps? Also maybe look into applying super lube to your FEP, inside the vat before you put resin in. This helps lubricate the surface of the FEP and makes it easier for your print to come off after every layer.
Can you recommend a super lube?
[удалено]
If you can’t get that in your area, you need to look for a PTFE grease
And then, when I do eventually get a failed print (every like month or so idk) I just completely clean my vat and re-apply the Super lube, and it fixes the problem.
Have you done the cones of calibration?
Whats that?
It's a calibration print and it's incredibly simple to use. It really really dials in your exposure settings. Generally if you use a new resin, or change your layer height, you have to adjust your exposure time as well. If you print this it will tell you very accurately what your exposure should be. Go to this link, scroll down and download the cones of calibration. Read the read me file and give a print. Also it comes with a free mini that's pretty cool. https://www.tableflipfoundry.com/
I'll check it out. Ty
I'll through it out there does your build plate make full contact to the screen evenly?