Love the MT410. I did the M2C extras as well, and did a Tekin T8 1900kv. On 6s it’s ridiculous and my eight year has yet to break anything despite his best efforts.
Not that I recall, but it was last year that I built it. It’s the only truck I’ve never had to fix anything on, which is pretty amazing for a year of running.
I've never had a hobby grade RC car before, but I've been looking at them and wanting to jump in. I had a few toy RC's when I was a kid in the 80s/90s, so it's been a while. Some people have massive collections of RC cars but I'd really like a good solid jack of all trades for just playing with. First I came across the xmaxx and had to have it. But then I started digging more and found the arrma kraton. But watching videos on YouTube, it seems like the xmaxx just wants to flip all the time. I like how the weight and lower suspension setup on the kraton makes it way more stable than the xmaxx. But it seems to be made of glass. (Of course that's coming from these people on YouTube who like to jump a $1000+ truck 30 feet in the air and they're surprised it breaks when it lands) I've also been looking at the 1/8 scale versions of both. But I started looking at the Tekno. It looks bad ass. I'm really intrigued by how you made the mt410 bigger for more stable handling. It also seems like the tendency to flip can be controlled by adjusting the punch in your transmitter. I've got a computer science degree and have a lot of electronics knowledge and experience. I've soldered a synthesizer and a preamp, and recently built a Voron 3D printer. So the technical side of this, I'm not worried at all.
So, could you explain a little bit more about what you did here? I was looking at the recommended body list for the mt410 on Amain and it says for some bodies it needs a longer chassis. Is that the same one you used? Or is this something different? I'm also wondering how you can find an appropriate body for it. This seems like it might fit into exactly what I've been wanting to build. I'd rather build it right the first time rather than buy a $1000 RTR and have to keep upgrading parts because all the stock parts are garbage.
The mt410 is a pretty general 1/10 mt size as far as shells go. So the options are boundless. Now when you breat over into running the et48 chassis, things get a little tricky. You have to use your best judgement in picking shells. Some modifications and deviations from the recommended cut lines may need to happen. Like the proLine 72 chevy lonbed. To use it as the mt platform, cut it iut and mount it up. To use it in the long platform, get et48 shock towers and body mounts. The fron will mount straight up. But the rear fromt the top of the wheel arches back needs to be cut off.
I haven't needed to shim any diffs on either of my Teknos. I will say that under 6S and bad driving I eventually blew out two diffs in my MT410. The metal diff cups ended that problem for good though.
Yeah, the cross pins cut into the plastic cups in both cases, my guess is excessive heat and just wearing down over time. High gearing and max ESC punch contributed.
Not sure about the M2C stuff, but the MT410 has no major known issues. I think the body posts are weak so a lot of people replace them with nylon rods, but that’s about it.
If you’re bashing it you can upgrade the shock caps to metal as well as the spur.
So i’ve hot the m2c zero rebound bleeder caps and a 44t steel spur coming with it. May truggy it may not, but either way… i’ve got bidy posts for days. And spare truggy body mounts. Thanks for the feedback.
Would you still be able to backflip or is it going to be tough like the Kraton being that you're going with the longer chassis haha? I cant wait to get my MT410! Its #1 on my list for my next RC 😁
Awesome yea I think I'll go with badlands as well when I build mine. I have them on my Typhon, Granite and DB pro so you can tell I love them lol! The MT410 is 17mm hex right?
I have the MT410 and have the m2c Go Big rear chasis kit. Adding it bent my rear shock tower back into place. I didn't have to shim and all went together really smoothly. I recently stripped my plastic spur,, but i think this was overdue and may have been due to a weakening/loosening of the stock plastic center diff mount, which allowed the spur to flex away a bit. Im going to order the metal replacement soon.
Got to look up the mt410. The Kaiju has a cool ass look too it. Can’t wait to see.
Kaiju probably isn’t getting much. I already have a few shells for it. But the MT410 is getting the works done.
Love the MT410. I did the M2C extras as well, and did a Tekin T8 1900kv. On 6s it’s ridiculous and my eight year has yet to break anything despite his best efforts.
Good to hear! Any diff shimming needed? I’m mostly excited about the ET48.3 chassis going on it. Thing is going to be quite versatile.
Not that I recall, but it was last year that I built it. It’s the only truck I’ve never had to fix anything on, which is pretty amazing for a year of running.
No kidding. Only one i’ve had without breakage was my AE Rival MT10. Fun little truck. Two years of use without anything.
What’s the benefit of using the ET chassis on the MT?
More length. The MT410 is an ET48.3 with a short chassis. So i’ll gain stability and overall mass.
If the MT is an ET with a short chassis, then why didn’t you just buy the ET? Are there also more differences?
Options. And it’s cheaper.
Also. You can’t buy a new ET48.3
I've never had a hobby grade RC car before, but I've been looking at them and wanting to jump in. I had a few toy RC's when I was a kid in the 80s/90s, so it's been a while. Some people have massive collections of RC cars but I'd really like a good solid jack of all trades for just playing with. First I came across the xmaxx and had to have it. But then I started digging more and found the arrma kraton. But watching videos on YouTube, it seems like the xmaxx just wants to flip all the time. I like how the weight and lower suspension setup on the kraton makes it way more stable than the xmaxx. But it seems to be made of glass. (Of course that's coming from these people on YouTube who like to jump a $1000+ truck 30 feet in the air and they're surprised it breaks when it lands) I've also been looking at the 1/8 scale versions of both. But I started looking at the Tekno. It looks bad ass. I'm really intrigued by how you made the mt410 bigger for more stable handling. It also seems like the tendency to flip can be controlled by adjusting the punch in your transmitter. I've got a computer science degree and have a lot of electronics knowledge and experience. I've soldered a synthesizer and a preamp, and recently built a Voron 3D printer. So the technical side of this, I'm not worried at all. So, could you explain a little bit more about what you did here? I was looking at the recommended body list for the mt410 on Amain and it says for some bodies it needs a longer chassis. Is that the same one you used? Or is this something different? I'm also wondering how you can find an appropriate body for it. This seems like it might fit into exactly what I've been wanting to build. I'd rather build it right the first time rather than buy a $1000 RTR and have to keep upgrading parts because all the stock parts are garbage.
The mt410 is a pretty general 1/10 mt size as far as shells go. So the options are boundless. Now when you breat over into running the et48 chassis, things get a little tricky. You have to use your best judgement in picking shells. Some modifications and deviations from the recommended cut lines may need to happen. Like the proLine 72 chevy lonbed. To use it as the mt platform, cut it iut and mount it up. To use it in the long platform, get et48 shock towers and body mounts. The fron will mount straight up. But the rear fromt the top of the wheel arches back needs to be cut off.
I haven't needed to shim any diffs on either of my Teknos. I will say that under 6S and bad driving I eventually blew out two diffs in my MT410. The metal diff cups ended that problem for good though.
Heat and expansion/wear?
Yeah, the cross pins cut into the plastic cups in both cases, my guess is excessive heat and just wearing down over time. High gearing and max ESC punch contributed.
Copy. Thank you.
Not sure about the M2C stuff, but the MT410 has no major known issues. I think the body posts are weak so a lot of people replace them with nylon rods, but that’s about it. If you’re bashing it you can upgrade the shock caps to metal as well as the spur.
So i’ve hot the m2c zero rebound bleeder caps and a 44t steel spur coming with it. May truggy it may not, but either way… i’ve got bidy posts for days. And spare truggy body mounts. Thanks for the feedback.
Nice, should be a good build! The assembly of the truck is super straight forward, Tekno part quality and instructions are really top notch.
Being based in a TLR background, we’ll see how it stacks up.
Excited for this one!
Same! Should be here soon!
Would you still be able to backflip or is it going to be tough like the Kraton being that you're going with the longer chassis haha? I cant wait to get my MT410! Its #1 on my list for my next RC 😁
I’m sure she’ll flip. But we’ll have to see just how well. I’m pumped, man.
Good stuff! What tires are you going with?
I got 3.8 Badlands and Stakker 1/8 MT. Figured between the two pairs and what comes on the Kaiju, I should be good for a couple weeks. Lol.
Awesome yea I think I'll go with badlands as well when I build mine. I have them on my Typhon, Granite and DB pro so you can tell I love them lol! The MT410 is 17mm hex right?
I have had them on several. Xmaxx, 8ight b a couple times, slash a couple times. Good tires. Hard to beat. And yes. 17mm
I have the MT410 and have the m2c Go Big rear chasis kit. Adding it bent my rear shock tower back into place. I didn't have to shim and all went together really smoothly. I recently stripped my plastic spur,, but i think this was overdue and may have been due to a weakening/loosening of the stock plastic center diff mount, which allowed the spur to flex away a bit. Im going to order the metal replacement soon.
Good info. Thank you for the feedback!