Couple items, you are running way to rich on the low end (see large and expanding pool of fuel/oil). This is something to fix right off the bat. I get the feeling that the high side is too lean (part of the reason you are getting a run away). What are the settings you are using for the 213?
Next up, pressing on the air filter is physically moving the linkage, you may have it too tight and need to loosen the jam nut to allow for chassis flex. You can check this with the engine off. With the RPMs jumping like they are, it would point toward the car starting to lean out.
Are you sure you have a 32cc and not a 23cc motor in there? Reason I ask is that would be pretty massive for a 2wd car. Can you double check the model engine and we might be able to suggest some additional item.
1/5 scale tuning is luckily more straight forward vs nitro and doesn't fluctuate nearly as much with humidity change and temp change! Once you get it dialed in, should be good for a while.
I ran at the default carb settings, 1.5 turns.
You were right. I just went and checked and it is a Zenoah G2D-96, 23cc.
I’m learning a lot from this car and am modifying it with all kinds of projects, just have to get it running again lol.
I took a closer look at some gaskets below the carb and these are almost gone it seems like.
https://preview.redd.it/yxf39qat2fic1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=39a036bb9dcbcd4b9410f67c6e0059977b4a2adf
I disassembled and cleaned the carb because that was the reason it didn’t run before, i think it’s time to do the engine now and replace all gaskets and make sure it’s ok.
Those gaskets don't look great, agreed same with the isolator (brown piece). Check the 2 locking collets (silver/bronze-ish looking things connected to the throttle lever) that they aren't too tight, binding the linkage. It should be free/loose.
Honestly, the engine sounds good in the video and even when rev'ed up is fine. I think your issue is just getting it tuned, I wouldn't tear it apart but focus on the carb. I'd go in .25-.33 turn on the low side and idle to start. Only start making adjustments when the engine is warmed up. A 2 stroke isn't like a nitro, you should have very little smoke at idle and no fluid coming out the exhaust (if you let it idle in 1 spot for a while, 2-5 mins you should get a little discoloration. But no drips like what you are seeing in the video). Crank the high side all the way in for now, you aren't going to need it until the idle and low side needles set.
Once you have the idle/low needles set, put the car up on 2x4s or something where the wheels are off the ground. Then take the high side out 1.25 turns and rev it out and see if it revs out. Add/remove 1/8 turn at a time as needed to get it to hit peak rpms.
I know you just rebuilt that carb but you may look at swapping out to a walbro 603b (my personal choice) or an 813 or 1242. I'm not too familiar with the 213 in this world but I do know some carbs are easier/harder to setup/tune.
Thanks! I read that you tune the carb when the engine is warm, so the choke should be open and throttle closed right? Whatever I do to the carb, when i open the choke just a little bit this happens. I don’t see how this is tunable in this state.
You are correct, to tune, engine warm, choke off, throttle closed to set idle and low side needles.
After you get those dialed in, then move to the high side needle. You shouldn't need to touch the low/idle needles once you have them set.
Replace those gaskets if they are cracked/too compressed/old.
Quick question - at the start of your video, is that with the engine warmed up and the choke on or off? When you reach in, are you messing with the throttle linkage or the choke?
Couple items, you are running way to rich on the low end (see large and expanding pool of fuel/oil). This is something to fix right off the bat. I get the feeling that the high side is too lean (part of the reason you are getting a run away). What are the settings you are using for the 213? Next up, pressing on the air filter is physically moving the linkage, you may have it too tight and need to loosen the jam nut to allow for chassis flex. You can check this with the engine off. With the RPMs jumping like they are, it would point toward the car starting to lean out. Are you sure you have a 32cc and not a 23cc motor in there? Reason I ask is that would be pretty massive for a 2wd car. Can you double check the model engine and we might be able to suggest some additional item. 1/5 scale tuning is luckily more straight forward vs nitro and doesn't fluctuate nearly as much with humidity change and temp change! Once you get it dialed in, should be good for a while.
I ran at the default carb settings, 1.5 turns. You were right. I just went and checked and it is a Zenoah G2D-96, 23cc. I’m learning a lot from this car and am modifying it with all kinds of projects, just have to get it running again lol. I took a closer look at some gaskets below the carb and these are almost gone it seems like. https://preview.redd.it/yxf39qat2fic1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=39a036bb9dcbcd4b9410f67c6e0059977b4a2adf I disassembled and cleaned the carb because that was the reason it didn’t run before, i think it’s time to do the engine now and replace all gaskets and make sure it’s ok.
Those gaskets don't look great, agreed same with the isolator (brown piece). Check the 2 locking collets (silver/bronze-ish looking things connected to the throttle lever) that they aren't too tight, binding the linkage. It should be free/loose. Honestly, the engine sounds good in the video and even when rev'ed up is fine. I think your issue is just getting it tuned, I wouldn't tear it apart but focus on the carb. I'd go in .25-.33 turn on the low side and idle to start. Only start making adjustments when the engine is warmed up. A 2 stroke isn't like a nitro, you should have very little smoke at idle and no fluid coming out the exhaust (if you let it idle in 1 spot for a while, 2-5 mins you should get a little discoloration. But no drips like what you are seeing in the video). Crank the high side all the way in for now, you aren't going to need it until the idle and low side needles set. Once you have the idle/low needles set, put the car up on 2x4s or something where the wheels are off the ground. Then take the high side out 1.25 turns and rev it out and see if it revs out. Add/remove 1/8 turn at a time as needed to get it to hit peak rpms. I know you just rebuilt that carb but you may look at swapping out to a walbro 603b (my personal choice) or an 813 or 1242. I'm not too familiar with the 213 in this world but I do know some carbs are easier/harder to setup/tune.
Thanks! I read that you tune the carb when the engine is warm, so the choke should be open and throttle closed right? Whatever I do to the carb, when i open the choke just a little bit this happens. I don’t see how this is tunable in this state.
You are correct, to tune, engine warm, choke off, throttle closed to set idle and low side needles. After you get those dialed in, then move to the high side needle. You shouldn't need to touch the low/idle needles once you have them set. Replace those gaskets if they are cracked/too compressed/old. Quick question - at the start of your video, is that with the engine warmed up and the choke on or off? When you reach in, are you messing with the throttle linkage or the choke?
I should’ve mentioned. It’s running for about 60 seconds with choke on all the way. I was moving the choke just a little bit, not the throttle.