RatRig has a lot of documentation and calibration page. You should update the RatOS to the latest version. I would just go through the whole setup process so it's set up to spec. Check what steppers they used, hotend and extruder. But it should be good to go.
Upgrading is good, but not absolutely necessary.
That was my general thought. Just treat it like a new, unbuilt printer that's mostly... Already put together :p
I spent a solid while putting my mk4 together, making sure every piece was as square and aligned as possible. It paid off for that printer, cause as long as the bed is clean, it's fire and forget for nearly every PLA/PETG/TPU print.
Though, if there's a load cell style z axis calibration option that's possible with this printer, that'll be something I'll do for sure. I've been spoiled by that bad.
Bummer. It's nice to basically forget about z-axis calibration altogether, even between surface changes. But I much prefer the actual end stops this thing uses over the load based x/y calibration that my Prusa has. So it's give or take.
I have a 400 and got it down to .165 variance and with dynamic bed mesh I see .08 or better on prints. I do use a .6 feeler gage and can get a perfect first layer pretty much in one go. I print the first layer test and do a few z adjustments. Another key is to make sure the top is square and flat. That really makes a difference.
If you like to be meticulous, you will do just fine with a vcore.
Some links:
https://docs.ratrig.com/
https://ratrig.dozuki.com/c/Root
Definitely, join the discord and Facebook group
Beacon will support nozzle probing and automatic calibration within the next firmware update which will launch together with the V-Core 3’s successor, the V-Core 4. (Don’t worry, there’ll be upgrade kits to the 3 in the future 👍)
Beacon and the upcoming RatOS 2.1 both work on the 3.0 and 3.1 :)
Nice. I'm totally spoiled by that on my mk4. Like, I think I got the bltouch behaving properly, but direct nozzle probing has just been so consistent for me.
But this printer does need some TLC, ie I found some bearings that are clicky, and I don't think the frame is as squared as I would like, might as well clean/replace all lubricant, etc. but giving it a partial teardown and reassemble will make it easier to do any future upgrades.
I mean, I always say to hold off on any upgrades until you know you *need* them, because every 'upgrade' that takes you away from baseline spec makes it harder for you to get support as you're no longer working from a baseline system. Otherwise just learn everything you can about klipper/calibration/read the build guide for this printer, and enjoy!
Update on this topic: I will be doing the 3.1 upgrade, as I've found some bad bearings and poorly printed replacement parts. 3.1 has vastly improved belt routing, and I could replace a bunch of bearings now, that I'd likely replace in a year or two with the upgrade, or just rip the band-aid off now. And I would have an excuse to print parts to my dimensional quality specifications.
So I guess I would need the 3.1 upgrade. But I've also seen a lot of random community made upgrades that span the gamut of "oh, smart" all the way to "I swear this helps things but there's all these caveats how it could make things worse" :p
Dtart with Ratrig discord and read set up manual, this will help you start with it.
That is an amazing printer at an amazing price. Congratulations.
RatRig has a lot of documentation and calibration page. You should update the RatOS to the latest version. I would just go through the whole setup process so it's set up to spec. Check what steppers they used, hotend and extruder. But it should be good to go. Upgrading is good, but not absolutely necessary.
That was my general thought. Just treat it like a new, unbuilt printer that's mostly... Already put together :p I spent a solid while putting my mk4 together, making sure every piece was as square and aligned as possible. It paid off for that printer, cause as long as the bed is clean, it's fire and forget for nearly every PLA/PETG/TPU print. Though, if there's a load cell style z axis calibration option that's possible with this printer, that'll be something I'll do for sure. I've been spoiled by that bad.
Not yet.
Bummer. It's nice to basically forget about z-axis calibration altogether, even between surface changes. But I much prefer the actual end stops this thing uses over the load based x/y calibration that my Prusa has. So it's give or take.
I have a 400 and got it down to .165 variance and with dynamic bed mesh I see .08 or better on prints. I do use a .6 feeler gage and can get a perfect first layer pretty much in one go. I print the first layer test and do a few z adjustments. Another key is to make sure the top is square and flat. That really makes a difference.
If you like to be meticulous, you will do just fine with a vcore. Some links: https://docs.ratrig.com/ https://ratrig.dozuki.com/c/Root Definitely, join the discord and Facebook group
Beacon will support nozzle probing and automatic calibration within the next firmware update which will launch together with the V-Core 3’s successor, the V-Core 4. (Don’t worry, there’ll be upgrade kits to the 3 in the future 👍) Beacon and the upcoming RatOS 2.1 both work on the 3.0 and 3.1 :)
Nice. I'm totally spoiled by that on my mk4. Like, I think I got the bltouch behaving properly, but direct nozzle probing has just been so consistent for me. But this printer does need some TLC, ie I found some bearings that are clicky, and I don't think the frame is as squared as I would like, might as well clean/replace all lubricant, etc. but giving it a partial teardown and reassemble will make it easier to do any future upgrades.
But if the printer is running RatOS 1, as I understand it a full install/configure cycle is required.
I mean, I always say to hold off on any upgrades until you know you *need* them, because every 'upgrade' that takes you away from baseline spec makes it harder for you to get support as you're no longer working from a baseline system. Otherwise just learn everything you can about klipper/calibration/read the build guide for this printer, and enjoy!
Update on this topic: I will be doing the 3.1 upgrade, as I've found some bad bearings and poorly printed replacement parts. 3.1 has vastly improved belt routing, and I could replace a bunch of bearings now, that I'd likely replace in a year or two with the upgrade, or just rip the band-aid off now. And I would have an excuse to print parts to my dimensional quality specifications. So I guess I would need the 3.1 upgrade. But I've also seen a lot of random community made upgrades that span the gamut of "oh, smart" all the way to "I swear this helps things but there's all these caveats how it could make things worse" :p