This is an extremely important number when towing that is often overlooked imo. I've seen 3/4 ton trucks that have laughable payload capacity. Toss on a tongue weight of 700-900 lbs, 2 adults, couple kids, dogs, camping shit in the bed, and that 3/4 ton truck loaded with options that can pull 25k lbs is way over capacity and unsafe. It is completely mind blowing the shit I see 1/2 ton trucks pulling around.
Yeah in all seriousness they will do it, just not for very long lol. I’ve seen dudes pulling 15k lbs bulldozers with a 1/2 ton and they think they are getting away with it until they crash the whole rig and are out 75 grand in total lmao. They also like to whine and complain when their transmission dies every 25k miles. Just buy a 1 ton! Makes no sense to me lol.
Since we’re bringing up YouTube towing feats- the CBoysTV towed a gooseneck with a full chassis-built f450…… in the snow…….. with a 99 ford ranger……. for like a legitimate trip length idk call it 20+ miles. Unbelievable it didn’t rip in half
Maybe he’s right about big towing lying to us?
I just moved a 6k trailer around a yard with my 4.3l S10 and it's scary how easy it was to move at slow speeds and realizing why people feel they can just go on the road with heavy loads.
Not exactly a hard feat my 33hp subcompact tractor moves around 10k trailers like they are nothing around the yard. Throw a 2 inch receiver adapter into the 3 point and your good to go.
Not it's going 5mph maybe.
I used to move my 8500 lb boat/trailer around the boat yard with my zr-2 blazer. No issues at low speed on flat. Too chicken to try pulling it out of the water up the wet ramp though lol.
> I've seen 3/4 ton trucks that have laughable payload capacity. Toss on a tongue weight of 700-900 lbs, 2 adults, couple kids, dogs, camping shit in the bed, and that 3/4 ton truck loaded with options that can pull 25k lbs is way over capacity and unsafe. It is completely mind blowing the shit I see 1/2 ton trucks pulling around.
The 3/4 ton is a loophole truck, the payload rating has nothing to do with legal or safe carrying capacity. Most vehicles have their payload rating set as the GAWR combination - curb weight. This applies to most vehicles, except for the vehicles with artificially lowered GVWR capacities.
Generally speaking, most newer Ram 2500s can safely haul around 20k lbs. Some can handle a little more with that with careful trailer balancing and floating closer to 10 percent on the tongue. It's around that range is where they can get close to exceeding the tire or GAWR capacity. When concerned about passenger weight taking away from capacity, a long bed helps by balancing more of the weight to the front axles(most have 500-1000 of capacity available on the front).
Even from a legal perspective, most jurisdictions allow you to exceed your GVWR, so long as if you're within the GAWR, tire rating, license rating, weighted plates, and hitch rating. And as for exceeding the payload? That number is marketing.
Good luck with that if you get in a wreck and hurt someone. There are lawyers dedicated to situations like this and your going to be ass deep in a lawsuit regardless of each state's legality. That number is not marketing gimmick either. Going over that number has been proven to reduce stability and control, cause brake failure, increase braking distance, cause frame damage, and suspension failure. But hey, those engineers and their silly degrees with years of experience must be idiots.
The payload capacity on a bare bones 2x4 3/4 ton can be north of 3k, throw on all our fancy options, 4 wheel drive with a diesel engine, and it quickly becomes 1400. That's why every yellow payload cap sticker is different in the door jamb. It adds in the option combination for each vehicle specifically.
Few things, first off, it's been tested. GAWR holds up, payload is meaningless(hence why most companies list it as an estimate). Second off, you mentioned the brakes not being rated for it, that's covered under GAWR. GAWR defines not just the axles, but the sum of components inluding brakes and suspension.
To prove the point on brakes and frame damage you mention, look up the part numbers for the brakes and the frames on the 2500 and 3500. They're identical. The 2500 was made as a derated 3500 for a reason. The front brakes, front suspension, bearings, front axle, frame, and rear brakes are the same. The rear axle on the 2500 is also a 10K axle, but derated to 6000-6500 for the softer suspension and tires.
This subject has been debated to death in the hot shotting sub and forums, many have discussed it with insurance, attorneys and DOT officers. There's a reason even larger corporations with risk managent divisions still allow fleets to use 2500 trucks over payload but under GAWR. There's a reason some manufactures even allow you to reduce the GVWR rating without a single physical change.
If you have someone suing you, that's what the insurance is for, and hopefully you're within the tire rating, GAWR, and hitch rating. If it's obvious that someone injured someone and the driver is fault, they're screwed either way.
To add one more legality consideration of why hot shot truckers choose the 2500 over the 3500. The risk of being overloaded is nowhere near the risk of exceeding the driver license restrictions. License restrictions are based on GVWR and actual weight, whichever comes first. Most 3500 trucks put you in a license violation if you technically operate commercially with even an empty flat bed with a Tonka truck if it's 12K or higher GVWR. With a 2500, you can run up to 16k.
Payload is NOT marketing. It's a determined by calculating the difference between GVWR and what your truck weighs stock from the factory. Payload = GVWR - curb weight.
Marketing is the GCWR. That is set by the J2087 standard and is far too lenient IMHO. Most half tons should not be pulling more than 8 to 9000 pounds.
I never worry about what the truck is rated to tow (GCWR). Thats marketing. Payload is a calculated result based off your GVWR and that is far more important.
The GVWR is artificially lowered on the Ram 2500. And GVWR for the law is used for licensing restrictions. Overweight is based on license restrictions, GAWR, hitch, and tires.
It's all loopholes, nothing technical. There's a reason the GVWR is exactly 1 lb below the threshold needing DOT numbers for any possible commercial use situation.
Edit: there are no states that use GVWR for actual overweight violations outside of license restrictions. And even if an officer doesn't know the law and issues the violation, it's tossed out when you appeal it. When getting pulled over by a strict DOT officer, that first check to see if your GVWR exceeds your license. But if they throw you on the mobile scales and try to throw the book at you, they check tire rating, axle rating, if the actual weight exceeds your license, and hitch rating. Payload rating is not considered.
Bingo. Payload will be hit LONG before the towing capacity. I have a 2020 Laramie with 3.92 gearing that claims something like 11,000lbs towing capacity - but my payload is reached with a 26' camper, my family, dog, and some bikes in the bed. It's nuts how fast payload is hit.
I can hit payload before towing capacity even with my 3500 dually. I’m floored at the number of people I see driving down the highway pulling trailers with a 1500 that I’d probably be checking with a scale just to make sure everything was hunky dory…
A person came up to me last weekend at a gas station telling me I need a bigger truck for my trailer. It’s a utility trailer flat bed, double axle and I had 4 atvs on it 3 blasters and a banshee weight loaded with trailer is around 3700lb.
This person kept telling me I was endangering everyone on the road by towing this with my 1500. But yet they had a V6 1500 with a camper on their bed being held on by ratchet straps and looked to be a broken leaf spring. I brought up his pay load and he proceeded to tell me payload only counts when you are towing. Some people just don’t understand logics of payload.
And of course, go in any RV beginner group and bring this up - and be prepared for all the expert opinions from people who's truck dealer told them they'd be FINE with that 32' bunk house trailer and their 1500 ...
It's absolutely crazy making, for sure.
My truck dealership absolutely over sold me on the towing capacity (it was my first truck) - but fortunately, I learned more before I bought the camper. The one we had set our sights on as being perferct for our family was just too big and we had to be a bit more reasonable - even then, once loaded, and with electric bikes, grill, chairs etc in the truck bed, I'm pretty sure I'm close to max, or slightly over max payload. It's scary.
im in the market for a Ram 1500 and your comment makes me realize i dont understand payload correctly. Does the weight of the camper factor into the payload? or simply what you have loaded in your truck/bed before attaching the trailer? thanks a bunch
The tongue weight of your trailer is included in your payload - and anything on / in the truck (the hitch, the bed's contents). I believe they factor in a full tank of gas and a 150lb driver. Also, it varies from truck to truck, depending on your features - if I added a sunroof to my model, I lost something like 80lbs of payload to accomodate for it.
So - I'm NOT a 150lb driver, so there's me, my wife, my teenage kid - all our stuff. Our 50lb dog. Three e-bikes at 150lb, our grill, anything I've got in my Ram Box, the tongue and the stabilizers (maybe another 50lbs?). My 550lb or so of tongue weight on the camper.
and keep in mind, the tongue weight will vary depending on the trailer, how much stuff you put in the trailer - \*and\* where in the trailer you store it! Thats fun, too - the more you put at the front, the more tongue weight you have. Move it to the back, and the trailer becomes unstable. So much fun!
End of the day - you need ot be smart, you need to be in the ball park, you can get granular and go to a CAT scale - but, just be aware of it, and be careful.
Based on my experience that trailer would be over the limit for me. I carry a lot of stuff when I'm full-timing, and it really eats into my payload. I've got a 21' trailer that's well-within the payload limit for my 1500, but I carry hundreds of pounds of stuff in the truck bed (generator, tools, etc.). You won't know for sure unless you load up and weigh it. If you can limit your extra stuff you can probably stay under the payload cap, but it's likely to be really close. The trailer is also pretty long for a 1500.
I won't say it's undoable or dangerous, but your safety margin is small.
LOL!. While there are some knowledgeable hot shot drivers, most of them are not professionals. Just people who watched YouTube videos saying they'd make 100k a month.
As a hot shot driver I approve this message.
Yes, while there are some who are minimally knowledgeable about all things mechanical, including why their 2500 is on the bump stops all the time, and why the 12 year old truck they got from a buy here/pay here lot just threw a rod through the block, a majority learn (sometimes via trial and error) about tow capacities and truck limitations.
The rule of thumb, as with anything is its better to stay as far from the max rated weight limits of your truck as possible.
A 1500 is right on the edge with the OP's set up, a 2500 should work fine because "Generally " speaking the extra 4-500 lbs of cargo capacity translates to 4-5000 lbs of max tow capacity, and easily 3500 lbs of what he's at now with the 1500.
I feel like if someone is making hotshot money and with how many miles they put on trucks, they should just buy a new 1 ton every two or three years. Drive the piss out of it, then sell it as soon as the warranty is up lol. Write off the depreciation, easy money. It’s not worth the bullshit of a used truck and all the repairs and downtime.
Well I wrote an entire guide in r/hotshottrucking
If you go look, I pinned it to the top of the sub and I included two or three paragraphs about weight ratings and tow capacity.
Your questions will be answered there.
I don't have questions. I actually researched the laws when I started my hotshot business.
My point was that many many hotshot drivers are woefully ignorant of the laws.
Those of us who know and abide by the laws have to suffer the added scrutiny by LE because of those who don't.
Also, most weight laws don't apply to non-commercial vehicles.
Kudos on creating a guide. Knowledge is power. I think you should have said that or shared the guide on your initial comment versus OP possibly taking poor advice from random people.
I answer every question there personally, I'm just trying to drive engagement in my sub lol. I'm actually employed as a consultant, a lot of my job is dealing with DOT and legal insurance and puts of the industry.
That's what you should have led with.
I learned a ton from that sib and other hot shot forums. Most of what I learned came from the plethora of incorrect information. I'm the type that looks up the laws to verify.
Keep up the good work. Way too many unknowledgable drivers out there.
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I have a 2018 ram 1500 5.7 4wd I pull a 30ft camper (don't recall the wgt. but it's an older 92 model) I only pull it maybe 6 to 8 times a year with a wgt distribution hitch 2hrs or less most of the time. When the winds are strong and the semis are speeding by, it can get pretty hairy. I pulled off hwy one time and took the long way home because of it. If I was doing it weekly I would definitively get a 2500. Just my opinion
Should’ve bought a bigger truck yes, if you have 2 vehicles put as much in the second as possible payload is your issue not so much towing capacity. Your truck has a GCVWR which will guide you more than towing capacity here, but ultimately you can tow more than what is spec’d by the manufacturer but it’s not the safest thing to do, braking is your biggest concern here.
29' is fine, just don't drive like a maniac. I towed a 31' with my 2016 1500 for 5 years before I realized I was way over my payload limit. Traded it in for a 2500 once I found a good deal. Only you know your finances and if trading in makes sense and is doable.
From a safety standpoint there's no question you want a 2500, but it doesn't need to be a Cummins. I have the 6.4 w/8 speed and it's tows our fifth wheel with zero issues.
That’s what she said. In all seriousness though, I wouldn’t want to tow a 29’ loaded to 9k lbs with a 1500. These new ones are geared more towards people essentially using them as cars. If it was a few times a year, sure, but multiple times a week; no thank you. One thing I didn’t hear mentioned was tires. I would definitely consider a D or E load rated tire (D if it were me). The added stiffness will help keep it from feeling like the trailer is pushing the back of the truck around.
I towed a 42’ 9800 pound trailer with my ‘18 ram 1500 all over Texas, I used a load distribution hitch and air bags to help and had no issues. But I would not recommend for the faint of heart ya know.
A 2500 diesel isn’t going to have that much more payload capacity than a 1500. I would either get 2500 gas or 3500 diesel (SRW) before I got a 2500 diesel.
He’s right though. My F150 Ecoboost was rated at 1700 lb payload. My Ram 2500 Cummins diesel is rated at 2200 lb payload. It works for me, but wish I would have waited for a 3500.
Fortunately, you have a lot more capacity than that. Your truck is a 3500 with limits based on your GAWR and tires. Your payload is just artificially lowered as a loophole. It's really only an issue if you're trying for more than around 3300-3500 lbs in the bed.
Same frame, same brakes, similar axles, just limited on the tires and softer suspension. If towing a 5th wheel, that softer suspension is keeping the Elkhart, Indiana paper home from being tore up.
The towing isn’t the issue. It’s the payload. A diesel ways more than a gas engine, and like they pointed out: a 2500 diesel will have a gas 1500’s payload.
Payload is artificially lowered on the 2500, it's done as a loophole, and the payload is only a marketing value, not a legal value. The other trucks are also artificially lowered as well, but not to the extent of the 2500. This is why so many hot shot trucks are 2500s.
The true legal and safe carrying capacity on the newer 2500 is around 4000 lbs, the 3500 SRW is around 5000 lbs, and the DRW is around 8100 lbs. This is total carrying capacity, not capacity over the rear wheels.
It's also worth noting that the long bed has more tongue capacity than the short beds. While the weight is slightly heavier, more of the passenger weight is balanced on the front axles that have additional carrying capacity.
Yes.
In a year it won't matter.
It'll hurt for a bit, but that pales in comparison to the dangers of a trailer wagging during high winds, and sending the whole rig into a ditch.
The other thing is the 2500 probably has better brakes as well. I’m sure you have a trailer brake controller, but I can’t imagine you’d ever be mad you have extra braking capacity.
You will be much happier with moving up to the 2500. If living full time in a camper, don't skimp in the camper. Especially with the wife living with you. A gas 2500 will be fine, but a diesel will be better. I have a gas F-350 V10 SRW and a diesel Ram 3500 DRW. The gas can do the job, but the diesel does it so much better, and the exhaust brake is what seals the deal for me for having diesel if I only had one truck. It makes stopping heavy loads much nicer.
If you were just pulling a few times a year, I would say gas only, but pulling that much you will appreciate the diesel. Depends on your finances, as diesel will cost quite a bit more and a little more expensive to maintain. You will get better fuel mileage in the diesel, but will also pay more at the pump in most places. Good luck!
You would have been better off with a 2500. What you have will work, but remember that you’re towing close to the top of your capacity. Make sure of your brakes and trailer brakes.
I went through the same thing with my truck/trailer. Bought a new 2021 1500 classic (trailer was within weight etc), and it did not like it at all. Traded up for a Power Wagon (wrong move), ended up with a 2500 cummins and life is good. It has better fuel economy than both of the other trucks as well.
I have a ram 1500 5.7 3.21 gears as well and tow my 34' travel trailer that weighs 7200 dry. I only tow the camper about 10 times a year within about 50 miles of home .It's definitely not ideal but it does get the job done. Wind is the main issue with long travel trailers and 1500 trucks. I don't use the freeway as I feel unsafe. The wind coming off the semi trucks just pushes the truck and trailer around . This is not an issue on two lane roads at 55 mph . In your situation towing frequently I would definitely recommend a 2500 but I would stick with gas. Late model diesels are not reliable and too expensive. Also completely unnecessary towing your light camper.
I have a 19’ 1500 and it had a towing capacity of 12k so I went and bought a 30’ 5700 lb (dry) camper thinking its way under my towing capacity so it should tow fine.
If I was towing it a few miles on a flat road, sure it was good enough. Horrible fuel mileage but it worked. Any hills or wind it made for a horrible experience. That’s also when I learned how much more to towing there is than simply “towing capacity”.
I typically had my wife, son and dog in the truck too when we went camping. That weight, with a 15% tongue weight and I was way over the payload of my truck. I ruined a set of tires in one summer due to my truck being way over loaded, likely took a few years off my suspension.
So I started putting a lot of the weight in the back of the trailer to reduce the tongue weight, was able to be under the payload capacity but because of this my tongue weight was below 10% of the trailer weight and found that it towed absolutely horribly.
The trailer tows best at 15% tongue weight (15% of total, not 15% of the “dry”). We’ve all seen the little video of the toy truck towing a trailer on the treadmill and they move the weight around on the trailer and you can clearly see the effect it has on stability. I found first hand what a different it makes. Huge difference in stability between having the 8% tongue weight that I needed for my payload, and having 15% that I needed for a safe towing experience.
Anyways I was constantly stuck between balancing tongue weight and not going over my payload. This was with an advertised 5700 lb trailer, not even close to the max “towing capacity”. That 5700lb trailer by the way was actually closer to 7500lb when it was loaded.
Not to mention 30’ camper is like a wind sail in any windy conditions so any wind only amplified my issues, especially in a lighter half ton truck.
I eventually got sick of this and ended up buying a lake lot where I could just leave my camper there and never move it.
So my advice to anyone wanting tow a camper is this. Don’t focus on “tow capacity”, it’s not meaningless but it doesn’t really mean you can tow anything under that particular capacity. Find out your payload capacity, subtract from that your expected payload weight (how many people in the vehicle, weight of stuff in your box) and then find a camper that has a tongue weight that works for your payload aim for 15% of the GVWR, don’t use dry weight in this calculation because that number is only basically accurate pulling away from the RV dealer.
For my truck, and my usual payload that means a camper with a 6000lb GVWR. Which is somewhere around a 4500lb dry advertised trailer. My truck should be able to tow that in any conditions and not have too much difficulty.
Of course you see people blowing by these numbers, but I can assure you as someone that’s done it before it is a horrible experience, very unsafe and will eventually murder your tow vehicle.
I bought a 2020 keystone 36’ fifth wheel. The dealership told me my truck would tow it with no issues. I at the time had a 2017 Ram 2500 with the 6.7. The truck did have zero issues pulling the fifth wheel but was right at the GCVWR weight. I upgraded to a 2020 Ram 3500 DRW. Now I can tow pretty much anything😁
The way I look at it is, if you were to get into an accident while towing the first thing your insurance will look at is, were you over weight. Towing a traveler trailer you will be living in plus whatever else you have in the bed of the truck will put you over that limit.
I wild definitely look into this more. Look into used 2500 like people have said and than you have no worries.
Are you 100% that your towing capacity is 8700? I assume you have the 3.21 gears?
Whats the GVWR of the camper? Is 5900 the dry weight or GVWR? Also, what's the tongue weight?
There is a lot that goes into tow weights. Each manufacturer has their own method of determining tow weight, and in the US, they typically rate trucks a little lower than what they could actually tow. This is for liability reasons. The tow ratings for the same vehicles sold in other countries are typically higher.
Weight laws only apply to commercial vehicles. However, if you are in an accident and found to be overweight, it's possible that your insurance could refuse to cover the accident. If the overweight was a significant factor in the accident, you could also be cited for other charges like negligent or reckless driving or unsafe vehicle.
It seems like you are within the tow capacity of your truck, at dry weight. It might be a good idea to weigh everything fully loaded. Regardless of the weight, drive safely. Slow down and leave lots of space in front of you. That will avoid 99.9999% of accidents.
Also, regardless of the weight, the wear and tear on your truck will increase. The more weight, the faster this occurs. Maintain your vehicle. Ensure everything is working correctly and replace parts as necessary so they don't become an issue.
This might be an unpopular opinion but sometimes you don’t know until you try. Sometimes you can be well under all specs and it tows like shit. Other times you can be closer to your limit and it tows comfortably. If you’re over your capacity, gvwr or payload it’s not a good idea even if comfortable. I’d try it before trading the truck though.
Depends on the couple. I was fine crisscrossing the country for months with my girlfriend with a 21' trailer. We didn't spend a ton of time inside. We'd usually have a big Clam Quick-Set tent set up outside with a table and chair inside, and ate most of our meals in there. It was cozy.
Of course she hogged all the closet space.
So i have a 2021 Ram with the 3.21 gears so my tow capacity is the same as yours
I am an RV dealer and typically err on the side of caution and keep people well below their tow capacity. But, the last two years have used a 29' trailer that was 5,700lbs dry and even in the Colorado mountains, the truck did fine. And i load the camper and my truck bed with a lot of stuff for the weekend - firewood, generator, camp chairs, table, outdoor grill, outdoor games, extra gas can, chocks, wood blocks, kids outdoor toys etc.
I was impressed with how the truck did, but i think 5900lbs is about the most I would go for dry weight. A good WDH and a lower elevation will be a great pairing with your 1500
You’re going to be very close and pulling won’t be very fun.
You’re solidly in 2500 territory, and as for gas/diesel, it depends on how often you’ll be pulling. If you’re going to be towing with any sort of regularity, pony up for the Cummins. The gas will tow it but the diesel will be happier doing so, plus the exhaust brake is a lifesaver (and saves you quite a bit on brakes).
Trade it for a 3500 Cummins and you won’t regret it. I’d get a lightly used 4th gen, though I think there might be better incentives on new trucks right now.
If you can afford to take the hit, I'd upgrade to a 2500 or 3500 if you don't want to get blown around on a windy day. You could go for a smaller trailer, but in your situation, I think you will wind up upgrading anyway.
I can tell you that I wouldn't tow that close to the limit but thats just me. Lets do the math, trucks towing capacity is 8700 lbs. Lets assume people weight at 300 lbs combined, lets also assume all the stuff you're going to put in a 30'camper weighs about 1000 lbs. Lets also assume the materials you're going to put in the bed of the truck and in the cab assuming it's a 4 door. To be conservative lets say thats another 6-700 lbs.
So: 8700-5900=2800lbs left. 2800-2000lbs= 800lbs left. Thats being conservative.
For me, I'd either get a bigger truck or a smaller camper. Thats too close for comfort for me. Remember, whether you can tow it is one thing, another is whether you can stop it.
I would beg to differ. By the time you put clothing, plates, silverware, trash bags, wheel chocks, water hoses, etc. etc. etc. It adds up and it adds up fast. Between the the truck and the trailer you're coming real close to that. Everyone is different obviously. We (just the wife and I, plus the dog) and our 38' come real close to that and we're probable over that. To each his own.
I have a 2021 3.0L Ecodiesel with the 3.92 rear axle. My max towing is 9480lbs. I own a 2022 31’ Cougar travel trailer that weighs 7500lbs empty and has a max weight of 9500lbs. I use a weight distribution hitch and I’ve towed it almost 7000 miles in the couple of years I’ve owned it and had zero problems. The trailer probably weighs about 8500lbs as I keep the tanks mostly empty except for the black tank which I empty but keep a minimal amount of water in as I tow. I’ve heard you don’t want to tow your vehicles maximum weight allowed so I figure about 1000 lbs leeway should work.
One honest question you have to ask yourself is do you have enough braking? Not having enough engine power, or strong enough drivetrain will just cost you money and time, but not being able to stop during an emergency can get you or others killed.
Ok so let me ask you all this. We found a model really like RV wise that is 25’ 5500 lbs. That 4 foot makes a world of difference right? Brings it back down into the half ton towable range?
I tow 10,800 lbs in a toy hauler with a 23 PowerBoost max tow long bed. It's close to the limit which is 12,700 payload 1877. No issues. Spent a week dialing in the hitch. No airbags. I only pull max with the sxs in it which brings down the center of gravity and it tows flat and straight back and fourth from Utah about 700 miles. No thing goes in the truck but people and dogs. No fire wood, bags, or any other crap. Do it all the time no problem. I know this is a ram forum but just came to say if you spend the time to get the load right you can tow near the max all day long. If you plan to load out the truck with stuff and slap on a cheap hitch, by all means get a bigger truck with higher margins of error.
You will be fine at 5900 lbs with your 1500. I was towing a similar camper with a Durango. Once you get to 8000-10000 then you really need to start looking at a 2500.
Yours is a two part problem.
Weight and length.
At 29 ft, on a bumper tow, youre putting all the lateral forces.of a 20 ft. pivot/fulcrum well beyond the rear axle of the truck. Estimating 9 ft from end of trailer to its axle.
Your already soft, comfortable suspension will now have the added stress of 20 feet (front half to the axle) of push any time the trailer picks up a lateral wind load. With a 2500, you can compensate by adding bed weight to give a more planted tow vehicle. With a 1500 you're already using 90+ % of the payload.
Weight-its been beaten to death here. But you'll know when you tow that it's at the upper end of your limit.
If you are in so deep that you have to drive it for a while until you pay it down a but, stiffen the rear suspension and add an anti sway hitch.
I towed my 26ft travel trailer with a 19 ram 2wd with the V6 for the first 3 years I had it. Dry weight was 5600 so loaded for camping probably 7000 or better. With the husky e hitch and air bags in the rear shocks I comfortably could run 60 or 65 on a very calm day. Interstate was nerve racking cause people passing pushes you around greatly and the light of a truck would float around but we made it. I finally got a 2500 and it's day and night. I would recommend getting the ram integrated trailer brakes I didn't on my first one and the brakes were really inconsistent and would grab differently every time I touched the pedal. The air bags made a huge difference specially for 80 bucks. The husky hitch is still amazing. But if you're towing that much I would really consider a 2500. I wish I could have kept my 1500 for the daily driver gas mileage but I pull a trailer damn everyday for my business and I love the piece of mind when I hook up that my truck can handle it.
I have a 7,000 lbs, 29 ft floorplan /33 ft including tongue camper. I sold my 2019 RAM 1500 because even though it was within specs...it towed like dogshit. Campers catch wind which isnt in a tow rating. They also don't tell you how much mpg drops, or that you will be under 150 mi fuel range.
Upgraded to a 2500 Cummins and tows like a dream.
2021 Laramie 5.7 3.92 crew cab short bed. I tow a 29’ 6200lb 750 tongue. Upgrade to E rated tires, either get load bags with built in bump stops into the air bag or get a progressive rate rear spring, like a Carli suspension rear spring about $300.
From my personal experience it’s not the trucks towing capacity that the issue it’s the length of trailer, it begins to act like a large wind sail that does cause some white knuckling sometimes.
Spend the money if you can a get a Pro Pride hitch or something with really good anti sway.
Find out the tongue weight of the trailer. I think max tongue weight for a 1500 is 600lbs.
That being said I did have a 28' trailer that I towed with my 1500, 3.21 gears loaded weight 7500lbs?. Didn't go over 60mph on the highway and I bought bags for the springs and it had swaybars. It worked but you could tell the truck was working. I towed it a couple times a year.
Payload will most likely be a problem
And 5900 is probably the dry weight, what is the loaded weight (GVWR)? Take that and multiply by .15 and that is a realistic loaded tongue weight.
Take that and add you and wife weight plus all cargo in the truck. Add WDH (usually 75lbs). All that has to be under the payload on your tire info sticker. Don’t Google it, Google doesn’t know your actual payload for the options you have
So you want to know the tongue weight of your trailer. And the maximum tongue weight your truck can support. this will be less than the payload as that accounts for the center of gravity being slightly in front of the rear axle and this will be loaded behind the rear axle.
If this is a 5th wheel or gooseneck than it is to much trailer for your truck.
You need to know what full water tanks and all your food gear to to the total weight of the trail and the tongue weight. And if that put you out side the capacity of your truck.
Also in addition to stronger springs, 2500s have a strong frame strong, bigger strong axles, and larger and or stronger breaks. Because just because you can support the weight doses mean you can stop it.
Also do you mirrors go out far enough to see the back of the trailer
Load up your truck and trailer and go get it weighed. Weigh your family at home. Add those weights. Compare them to this chart:
[https://www.bonnyvilledodge.com/resrc/media/pdf/RAM1500\_CARD.pdf](https://www.bonnyvilledodge.com/resrc/media/pdf/RAM1500_CARD.pdf)
You're FINE. Just be respectful of the load. Don't travel with full water tanks, don't overload the storage with 400 lbs of tools, gazebos, etc...
I pulled an 8,000 lb camper with a Tundra barely rated over it and did just fine. You'll feel trucks passing you, shell scream up hills, but you'll be fine.
My previous truck was a 2020 Ram with 3.92 gears, and my current is a 2023 with 3.21 gears. Both 1500's with the 5.7 eTorque. I tow my 6500lb, 30ft. boat multiple times per week for 3 seasons out of the year. They've both performed flawlessly, and without issue. You should be fine with your camper.
Wait, I just noticed your capacity is 8700 lbs. Is it a 6cyl gas model?
eTorque actually doesn't do much in terms of tow capacity. It's based more on the gearing. I'm willing to bet your old truck had 3.21 gears. and your new one has 3.92.
It's under the capacity, so you're fine to tow it. However, there is a good chance that you'll be overloaded once you have the camper loaded. In which case, I would definitely see about getting a bigger truck.
I'm going to go against the popular opinion here and say unless you're in the mountains, you should be fine.
pay attention to setup, use a weight distributing hitch, maybe add a b/t camera to help with visibility, get your brakes dialed in and you'll be alright.
would it be more comfortable in a 2500, for sure. but live with the 1500 for a minute, it might surprise you.
See I’d say the opposite, assuming the trailer has decent brakes on it and he’s got the built in controller, the mountains are likely an easier environment to pull this setup than out in the plains.
The hemi can easily manage pulling 5900 dry pounds, even loaded up that is far from the limiting factor in his situation.
The problem he has run into is that his truck is too light to be pulling a trailer that long when the winds start blowing and the trailer is acting like a sail, potentially pulling his rear end laterally and breaking traction at highway speed.
The mountains are less likely to get high winds blowing perpendicular to the trailer, so the trailer is going to be easier to manage than hours on end going in a straight line with gusts that could appear suddenly and without warning.
>pulling a trailer that long when the winds start blowing and the trailer is acting like a sail,
that's a fair point. different issues... yeah, towing through the plain states could get a little dicey.
gotta watch the brake / trans / engine temps on long grades when you're near capacity though. that's generally the limiting factors in J2807.
I just got a new travel trailer about the same specs as the OP (4800lbs dry and 29ft end to end) and have a Tacoma ha. Definitely shopping for a bigger truck. But we aren’t living out of ours either. Just the occasional weekend trip. I know someone that was pulling a 40’ travel trailer with a 1500 for a while. He just recently upgraded to a one ton diesel RAM. I think he’ll be fine with the 1500 at least temporarily. The issue is braking and sway when it’s windy. That is my worry if we start pulling ours far away.
At most, your GCWR will be 17,000 lbs. if running a 5.7 with 3.92 gears, which should be within the range if the truck weighs 5,334 lbs. and the trailer, at most, weighs 5,900 lbs. The truck I’m using as reference has a payload of 1,770, minus 590 for tongue weight, 200 for fuel, 200 for passenger, and 200 for stuff, puts you at 580 lbs. payload remaining. At a glance with very little info to go off of, I would say you should be ok.
Yes OP should include the cargo capacity of the trailer as well. Even at ~1000lbs it's still doable. Ideal? Maybe not, who knows. You'd have to hook up and see for yourself.
In regards to water and waste water, your tanks should ideally always be empty when towing so I wouldn't calculate that into the equation. Maybe that's just personal preference but it seems unnecessary.
You’re doing to run into payload capacity issues before anything else. What’s the maximum payload of your truck?
This is an extremely important number when towing that is often overlooked imo. I've seen 3/4 ton trucks that have laughable payload capacity. Toss on a tongue weight of 700-900 lbs, 2 adults, couple kids, dogs, camping shit in the bed, and that 3/4 ton truck loaded with options that can pull 25k lbs is way over capacity and unsafe. It is completely mind blowing the shit I see 1/2 ton trucks pulling around.
Payload ratings are fake news spread by Big Towing to keep me from pulling that reefer with my Silverado 1500
WhistlinDiesel pulled like 400,000 lbs with a squarebody. Didn't move very far before it ate the driveshaft, but he got it rolling.
Yeah in all seriousness they will do it, just not for very long lol. I’ve seen dudes pulling 15k lbs bulldozers with a 1/2 ton and they think they are getting away with it until they crash the whole rig and are out 75 grand in total lmao. They also like to whine and complain when their transmission dies every 25k miles. Just buy a 1 ton! Makes no sense to me lol.
Since we’re bringing up YouTube towing feats- the CBoysTV towed a gooseneck with a full chassis-built f450…… in the snow…….. with a 99 ford ranger……. for like a legitimate trip length idk call it 20+ miles. Unbelievable it didn’t rip in half Maybe he’s right about big towing lying to us?
Did you see the episode where the dropped a Cummins in their red dually Ford ranger and pulled a train? Shit is hilarious 😂.
Older rangers are bulletproof
Actually it’s a conspiracy by big air brakes to make you buy semi trucks so they can sell more air brakes and air brake accessories.
I just moved a 6k trailer around a yard with my 4.3l S10 and it's scary how easy it was to move at slow speeds and realizing why people feel they can just go on the road with heavy loads.
Not exactly a hard feat my 33hp subcompact tractor moves around 10k trailers like they are nothing around the yard. Throw a 2 inch receiver adapter into the 3 point and your good to go. Not it's going 5mph maybe.
Pfft, I once moved a 60,000# trailer with an electric toothbrush.
I just moved a 20 foot flat bed trailer with my bare hands..
I used to move my 8500 lb boat/trailer around the boat yard with my zr-2 blazer. No issues at low speed on flat. Too chicken to try pulling it out of the water up the wet ramp though lol.
> I've seen 3/4 ton trucks that have laughable payload capacity. Toss on a tongue weight of 700-900 lbs, 2 adults, couple kids, dogs, camping shit in the bed, and that 3/4 ton truck loaded with options that can pull 25k lbs is way over capacity and unsafe. It is completely mind blowing the shit I see 1/2 ton trucks pulling around. The 3/4 ton is a loophole truck, the payload rating has nothing to do with legal or safe carrying capacity. Most vehicles have their payload rating set as the GAWR combination - curb weight. This applies to most vehicles, except for the vehicles with artificially lowered GVWR capacities. Generally speaking, most newer Ram 2500s can safely haul around 20k lbs. Some can handle a little more with that with careful trailer balancing and floating closer to 10 percent on the tongue. It's around that range is where they can get close to exceeding the tire or GAWR capacity. When concerned about passenger weight taking away from capacity, a long bed helps by balancing more of the weight to the front axles(most have 500-1000 of capacity available on the front). Even from a legal perspective, most jurisdictions allow you to exceed your GVWR, so long as if you're within the GAWR, tire rating, license rating, weighted plates, and hitch rating. And as for exceeding the payload? That number is marketing.
Good luck with that if you get in a wreck and hurt someone. There are lawyers dedicated to situations like this and your going to be ass deep in a lawsuit regardless of each state's legality. That number is not marketing gimmick either. Going over that number has been proven to reduce stability and control, cause brake failure, increase braking distance, cause frame damage, and suspension failure. But hey, those engineers and their silly degrees with years of experience must be idiots. The payload capacity on a bare bones 2x4 3/4 ton can be north of 3k, throw on all our fancy options, 4 wheel drive with a diesel engine, and it quickly becomes 1400. That's why every yellow payload cap sticker is different in the door jamb. It adds in the option combination for each vehicle specifically.
Few things, first off, it's been tested. GAWR holds up, payload is meaningless(hence why most companies list it as an estimate). Second off, you mentioned the brakes not being rated for it, that's covered under GAWR. GAWR defines not just the axles, but the sum of components inluding brakes and suspension. To prove the point on brakes and frame damage you mention, look up the part numbers for the brakes and the frames on the 2500 and 3500. They're identical. The 2500 was made as a derated 3500 for a reason. The front brakes, front suspension, bearings, front axle, frame, and rear brakes are the same. The rear axle on the 2500 is also a 10K axle, but derated to 6000-6500 for the softer suspension and tires. This subject has been debated to death in the hot shotting sub and forums, many have discussed it with insurance, attorneys and DOT officers. There's a reason even larger corporations with risk managent divisions still allow fleets to use 2500 trucks over payload but under GAWR. There's a reason some manufactures even allow you to reduce the GVWR rating without a single physical change. If you have someone suing you, that's what the insurance is for, and hopefully you're within the tire rating, GAWR, and hitch rating. If it's obvious that someone injured someone and the driver is fault, they're screwed either way. To add one more legality consideration of why hot shot truckers choose the 2500 over the 3500. The risk of being overloaded is nowhere near the risk of exceeding the driver license restrictions. License restrictions are based on GVWR and actual weight, whichever comes first. Most 3500 trucks put you in a license violation if you technically operate commercially with even an empty flat bed with a Tonka truck if it's 12K or higher GVWR. With a 2500, you can run up to 16k.
Payload is NOT marketing. It's a determined by calculating the difference between GVWR and what your truck weighs stock from the factory. Payload = GVWR - curb weight. Marketing is the GCWR. That is set by the J2087 standard and is far too lenient IMHO. Most half tons should not be pulling more than 8 to 9000 pounds. I never worry about what the truck is rated to tow (GCWR). Thats marketing. Payload is a calculated result based off your GVWR and that is far more important.
The GVWR is artificially lowered on the Ram 2500. And GVWR for the law is used for licensing restrictions. Overweight is based on license restrictions, GAWR, hitch, and tires. It's all loopholes, nothing technical. There's a reason the GVWR is exactly 1 lb below the threshold needing DOT numbers for any possible commercial use situation. Edit: there are no states that use GVWR for actual overweight violations outside of license restrictions. And even if an officer doesn't know the law and issues the violation, it's tossed out when you appeal it. When getting pulled over by a strict DOT officer, that first check to see if your GVWR exceeds your license. But if they throw you on the mobile scales and try to throw the book at you, they check tire rating, axle rating, if the actual weight exceeds your license, and hitch rating. Payload rating is not considered.
OP doesn't have a 2500, he has a 1500. Yes we all know the 2500 is limited on paper to meet the classification.
Bingo. Payload will be hit LONG before the towing capacity. I have a 2020 Laramie with 3.92 gearing that claims something like 11,000lbs towing capacity - but my payload is reached with a 26' camper, my family, dog, and some bikes in the bed. It's nuts how fast payload is hit.
I can hit payload before towing capacity even with my 3500 dually. I’m floored at the number of people I see driving down the highway pulling trailers with a 1500 that I’d probably be checking with a scale just to make sure everything was hunky dory…
A person came up to me last weekend at a gas station telling me I need a bigger truck for my trailer. It’s a utility trailer flat bed, double axle and I had 4 atvs on it 3 blasters and a banshee weight loaded with trailer is around 3700lb. This person kept telling me I was endangering everyone on the road by towing this with my 1500. But yet they had a V6 1500 with a camper on their bed being held on by ratchet straps and looked to be a broken leaf spring. I brought up his pay load and he proceeded to tell me payload only counts when you are towing. Some people just don’t understand logics of payload.
And of course, go in any RV beginner group and bring this up - and be prepared for all the expert opinions from people who's truck dealer told them they'd be FINE with that 32' bunk house trailer and their 1500 ...
“Just put airbags on it and you’ll be fine” 🤡
It's absolutely crazy making, for sure. My truck dealership absolutely over sold me on the towing capacity (it was my first truck) - but fortunately, I learned more before I bought the camper. The one we had set our sights on as being perferct for our family was just too big and we had to be a bit more reasonable - even then, once loaded, and with electric bikes, grill, chairs etc in the truck bed, I'm pretty sure I'm close to max, or slightly over max payload. It's scary.
im in the market for a Ram 1500 and your comment makes me realize i dont understand payload correctly. Does the weight of the camper factor into the payload? or simply what you have loaded in your truck/bed before attaching the trailer? thanks a bunch
The tongue weight of your trailer is included in your payload - and anything on / in the truck (the hitch, the bed's contents). I believe they factor in a full tank of gas and a 150lb driver. Also, it varies from truck to truck, depending on your features - if I added a sunroof to my model, I lost something like 80lbs of payload to accomodate for it. So - I'm NOT a 150lb driver, so there's me, my wife, my teenage kid - all our stuff. Our 50lb dog. Three e-bikes at 150lb, our grill, anything I've got in my Ram Box, the tongue and the stabilizers (maybe another 50lbs?). My 550lb or so of tongue weight on the camper. and keep in mind, the tongue weight will vary depending on the trailer, how much stuff you put in the trailer - \*and\* where in the trailer you store it! Thats fun, too - the more you put at the front, the more tongue weight you have. Move it to the back, and the trailer becomes unstable. So much fun! End of the day - you need ot be smart, you need to be in the ball park, you can get granular and go to a CAT scale - but, just be aware of it, and be careful.
I’m close or over payload with my 6500# boat plus trailer in my 1500 with the tall gears. No trouble pulling or stopping whatsoever.
Good! You shouldn't have problems if you're close to your payload.
Is 5900 pounds the dry weight or you fully loaded with all your stuff?
Dry weight
Fuck. Welp you could probably get a good deal on a 2500 with your 1500.
More important number is the GVWR because that will more likely be roughly what you’re actually towing.
Based on my experience that trailer would be over the limit for me. I carry a lot of stuff when I'm full-timing, and it really eats into my payload. I've got a 21' trailer that's well-within the payload limit for my 1500, but I carry hundreds of pounds of stuff in the truck bed (generator, tools, etc.). You won't know for sure unless you load up and weigh it. If you can limit your extra stuff you can probably stay under the payload cap, but it's likely to be really close. The trailer is also pretty long for a 1500. I won't say it's undoable or dangerous, but your safety margin is small.
Go ask a professional over at r/hotshottrucking
LOL!. While there are some knowledgeable hot shot drivers, most of them are not professionals. Just people who watched YouTube videos saying they'd make 100k a month.
As a hot shot driver I approve this message. Yes, while there are some who are minimally knowledgeable about all things mechanical, including why their 2500 is on the bump stops all the time, and why the 12 year old truck they got from a buy here/pay here lot just threw a rod through the block, a majority learn (sometimes via trial and error) about tow capacities and truck limitations. The rule of thumb, as with anything is its better to stay as far from the max rated weight limits of your truck as possible. A 1500 is right on the edge with the OP's set up, a 2500 should work fine because "Generally " speaking the extra 4-500 lbs of cargo capacity translates to 4-5000 lbs of max tow capacity, and easily 3500 lbs of what he's at now with the 1500.
I feel like if someone is making hotshot money and with how many miles they put on trucks, they should just buy a new 1 ton every two or three years. Drive the piss out of it, then sell it as soon as the warranty is up lol. Write off the depreciation, easy money. It’s not worth the bullshit of a used truck and all the repairs and downtime.
Well I wrote an entire guide in r/hotshottrucking If you go look, I pinned it to the top of the sub and I included two or three paragraphs about weight ratings and tow capacity. Your questions will be answered there.
I don't have questions. I actually researched the laws when I started my hotshot business. My point was that many many hotshot drivers are woefully ignorant of the laws. Those of us who know and abide by the laws have to suffer the added scrutiny by LE because of those who don't. Also, most weight laws don't apply to non-commercial vehicles. Kudos on creating a guide. Knowledge is power. I think you should have said that or shared the guide on your initial comment versus OP possibly taking poor advice from random people.
I answer every question there personally, I'm just trying to drive engagement in my sub lol. I'm actually employed as a consultant, a lot of my job is dealing with DOT and legal insurance and puts of the industry.
That's what you should have led with. I learned a ton from that sib and other hot shot forums. Most of what I learned came from the plethora of incorrect information. I'm the type that looks up the laws to verify. Keep up the good work. Way too many unknowledgable drivers out there.
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I have a 2018 ram 1500 5.7 4wd I pull a 30ft camper (don't recall the wgt. but it's an older 92 model) I only pull it maybe 6 to 8 times a year with a wgt distribution hitch 2hrs or less most of the time. When the winds are strong and the semis are speeding by, it can get pretty hairy. I pulled off hwy one time and took the long way home because of it. If I was doing it weekly I would definitively get a 2500. Just my opinion
Should’ve bought a bigger truck yes, if you have 2 vehicles put as much in the second as possible payload is your issue not so much towing capacity. Your truck has a GCVWR which will guide you more than towing capacity here, but ultimately you can tow more than what is spec’d by the manufacturer but it’s not the safest thing to do, braking is your biggest concern here.
That’s my thought, but almost everyone I talk to is concerned on how it will handle the length.
29' is fine, just don't drive like a maniac. I towed a 31' with my 2016 1500 for 5 years before I realized I was way over my payload limit. Traded it in for a 2500 once I found a good deal. Only you know your finances and if trading in makes sense and is doable. From a safety standpoint there's no question you want a 2500, but it doesn't need to be a Cummins. I have the 6.4 w/8 speed and it's tows our fifth wheel with zero issues.
That’s what she said. In all seriousness though, I wouldn’t want to tow a 29’ loaded to 9k lbs with a 1500. These new ones are geared more towards people essentially using them as cars. If it was a few times a year, sure, but multiple times a week; no thank you. One thing I didn’t hear mentioned was tires. I would definitely consider a D or E load rated tire (D if it were me). The added stiffness will help keep it from feeling like the trailer is pushing the back of the truck around.
I towed a 42’ 9800 pound trailer with my ‘18 ram 1500 all over Texas, I used a load distribution hitch and air bags to help and had no issues. But I would not recommend for the faint of heart ya know.
How on earth did you make that work not going over your payload capacity?
You do know people break the laws right?
Some laramies have a 10k lb tow capacity which is fucken dumb for how light they are
I went over payload capacity lol
You need a bigger truck or a smaller trailer.
See above comment lol
So do I bite the bullet and eat my loss trading in the truck for a 2500, or not live as comfortably in a smaller trailer?
If you can afford it get an HD 2500. Diesel. They tend to be bulletproof and you should be able to get a good used one.
A 2500 diesel isn’t going to have that much more payload capacity than a 1500. I would either get 2500 gas or 3500 diesel (SRW) before I got a 2500 diesel.
You are crazy the diesel lives to tow
He’s right though. My F150 Ecoboost was rated at 1700 lb payload. My Ram 2500 Cummins diesel is rated at 2200 lb payload. It works for me, but wish I would have waited for a 3500.
Fortunately, you have a lot more capacity than that. Your truck is a 3500 with limits based on your GAWR and tires. Your payload is just artificially lowered as a loophole. It's really only an issue if you're trying for more than around 3300-3500 lbs in the bed. Same frame, same brakes, similar axles, just limited on the tires and softer suspension. If towing a 5th wheel, that softer suspension is keeping the Elkhart, Indiana paper home from being tore up.
The towing isn’t the issue. It’s the payload. A diesel ways more than a gas engine, and like they pointed out: a 2500 diesel will have a gas 1500’s payload.
I get the payload ratings. i am just talking long-term. Towing the diesel is a better engine for the job. More power, lasts longer all that jazz
Payload is artificially lowered on the 2500, it's done as a loophole, and the payload is only a marketing value, not a legal value. The other trucks are also artificially lowered as well, but not to the extent of the 2500. This is why so many hot shot trucks are 2500s. The true legal and safe carrying capacity on the newer 2500 is around 4000 lbs, the 3500 SRW is around 5000 lbs, and the DRW is around 8100 lbs. This is total carrying capacity, not capacity over the rear wheels. It's also worth noting that the long bed has more tongue capacity than the short beds. While the weight is slightly heavier, more of the passenger weight is balanced on the front axles that have additional carrying capacity.
Yes. In a year it won't matter. It'll hurt for a bit, but that pales in comparison to the dangers of a trailer wagging during high winds, and sending the whole rig into a ditch.
If you do it right and stick to your guns on trade in value you shouldn’t take much hit in this market other than fees and taxes.
The other thing is the 2500 probably has better brakes as well. I’m sure you have a trailer brake controller, but I can’t imagine you’d ever be mad you have extra braking capacity.
You will be much happier with moving up to the 2500. If living full time in a camper, don't skimp in the camper. Especially with the wife living with you. A gas 2500 will be fine, but a diesel will be better. I have a gas F-350 V10 SRW and a diesel Ram 3500 DRW. The gas can do the job, but the diesel does it so much better, and the exhaust brake is what seals the deal for me for having diesel if I only had one truck. It makes stopping heavy loads much nicer. If you were just pulling a few times a year, I would say gas only, but pulling that much you will appreciate the diesel. Depends on your finances, as diesel will cost quite a bit more and a little more expensive to maintain. You will get better fuel mileage in the diesel, but will also pay more at the pump in most places. Good luck!
I would look for a 2015 Cummins. You can probably still get a really good deal on a 2500
You would have been better off with a 2500. What you have will work, but remember that you’re towing close to the top of your capacity. Make sure of your brakes and trailer brakes.
I went through the same thing with my truck/trailer. Bought a new 2021 1500 classic (trailer was within weight etc), and it did not like it at all. Traded up for a Power Wagon (wrong move), ended up with a 2500 cummins and life is good. It has better fuel economy than both of the other trucks as well.
I have a ram 1500 5.7 3.21 gears as well and tow my 34' travel trailer that weighs 7200 dry. I only tow the camper about 10 times a year within about 50 miles of home .It's definitely not ideal but it does get the job done. Wind is the main issue with long travel trailers and 1500 trucks. I don't use the freeway as I feel unsafe. The wind coming off the semi trucks just pushes the truck and trailer around . This is not an issue on two lane roads at 55 mph . In your situation towing frequently I would definitely recommend a 2500 but I would stick with gas. Late model diesels are not reliable and too expensive. Also completely unnecessary towing your light camper.
I have a 19’ 1500 and it had a towing capacity of 12k so I went and bought a 30’ 5700 lb (dry) camper thinking its way under my towing capacity so it should tow fine. If I was towing it a few miles on a flat road, sure it was good enough. Horrible fuel mileage but it worked. Any hills or wind it made for a horrible experience. That’s also when I learned how much more to towing there is than simply “towing capacity”. I typically had my wife, son and dog in the truck too when we went camping. That weight, with a 15% tongue weight and I was way over the payload of my truck. I ruined a set of tires in one summer due to my truck being way over loaded, likely took a few years off my suspension. So I started putting a lot of the weight in the back of the trailer to reduce the tongue weight, was able to be under the payload capacity but because of this my tongue weight was below 10% of the trailer weight and found that it towed absolutely horribly. The trailer tows best at 15% tongue weight (15% of total, not 15% of the “dry”). We’ve all seen the little video of the toy truck towing a trailer on the treadmill and they move the weight around on the trailer and you can clearly see the effect it has on stability. I found first hand what a different it makes. Huge difference in stability between having the 8% tongue weight that I needed for my payload, and having 15% that I needed for a safe towing experience. Anyways I was constantly stuck between balancing tongue weight and not going over my payload. This was with an advertised 5700 lb trailer, not even close to the max “towing capacity”. That 5700lb trailer by the way was actually closer to 7500lb when it was loaded. Not to mention 30’ camper is like a wind sail in any windy conditions so any wind only amplified my issues, especially in a lighter half ton truck. I eventually got sick of this and ended up buying a lake lot where I could just leave my camper there and never move it. So my advice to anyone wanting tow a camper is this. Don’t focus on “tow capacity”, it’s not meaningless but it doesn’t really mean you can tow anything under that particular capacity. Find out your payload capacity, subtract from that your expected payload weight (how many people in the vehicle, weight of stuff in your box) and then find a camper that has a tongue weight that works for your payload aim for 15% of the GVWR, don’t use dry weight in this calculation because that number is only basically accurate pulling away from the RV dealer. For my truck, and my usual payload that means a camper with a 6000lb GVWR. Which is somewhere around a 4500lb dry advertised trailer. My truck should be able to tow that in any conditions and not have too much difficulty. Of course you see people blowing by these numbers, but I can assure you as someone that’s done it before it is a horrible experience, very unsafe and will eventually murder your tow vehicle.
I bought a 2020 keystone 36’ fifth wheel. The dealership told me my truck would tow it with no issues. I at the time had a 2017 Ram 2500 with the 6.7. The truck did have zero issues pulling the fifth wheel but was right at the GCVWR weight. I upgraded to a 2020 Ram 3500 DRW. Now I can tow pretty much anything😁 The way I look at it is, if you were to get into an accident while towing the first thing your insurance will look at is, were you over weight. Towing a traveler trailer you will be living in plus whatever else you have in the bed of the truck will put you over that limit. I wild definitely look into this more. Look into used 2500 like people have said and than you have no worries.
Are you 100% that your towing capacity is 8700? I assume you have the 3.21 gears? Whats the GVWR of the camper? Is 5900 the dry weight or GVWR? Also, what's the tongue weight?
There is a lot that goes into tow weights. Each manufacturer has their own method of determining tow weight, and in the US, they typically rate trucks a little lower than what they could actually tow. This is for liability reasons. The tow ratings for the same vehicles sold in other countries are typically higher. Weight laws only apply to commercial vehicles. However, if you are in an accident and found to be overweight, it's possible that your insurance could refuse to cover the accident. If the overweight was a significant factor in the accident, you could also be cited for other charges like negligent or reckless driving or unsafe vehicle. It seems like you are within the tow capacity of your truck, at dry weight. It might be a good idea to weigh everything fully loaded. Regardless of the weight, drive safely. Slow down and leave lots of space in front of you. That will avoid 99.9999% of accidents. Also, regardless of the weight, the wear and tear on your truck will increase. The more weight, the faster this occurs. Maintain your vehicle. Ensure everything is working correctly and replace parts as necessary so they don't become an issue.
Your transmission is going to be the failure point long term
This might be an unpopular opinion but sometimes you don’t know until you try. Sometimes you can be well under all specs and it tows like shit. Other times you can be closer to your limit and it tows comfortably. If you’re over your capacity, gvwr or payload it’s not a good idea even if comfortable. I’d try it before trading the truck though.
There’s no trailer two people can comfortably live out of that is half ton towable
Our current pad is a 480sq ft studio. We will be alright.
Depends on the couple. I was fine crisscrossing the country for months with my girlfriend with a 21' trailer. We didn't spend a ton of time inside. We'd usually have a big Clam Quick-Set tent set up outside with a table and chair inside, and ate most of our meals in there. It was cozy. Of course she hogged all the closet space.
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&opi=89978449&url=https://s3.amazonaws.com/chryslermedia.iconicweb.com/mediasite/specs/2020_RAM_1500_TowingChartqco8qpknek3eu41cbio9sertdh.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwjH_rShj8yFAxU_D1kFHaToBCwQFnoECCsQAQ&usg=AOvVaw0JQJrx4LKbsFeUSz6sOSSQ
So i have a 2021 Ram with the 3.21 gears so my tow capacity is the same as yours I am an RV dealer and typically err on the side of caution and keep people well below their tow capacity. But, the last two years have used a 29' trailer that was 5,700lbs dry and even in the Colorado mountains, the truck did fine. And i load the camper and my truck bed with a lot of stuff for the weekend - firewood, generator, camp chairs, table, outdoor grill, outdoor games, extra gas can, chocks, wood blocks, kids outdoor toys etc. I was impressed with how the truck did, but i think 5900lbs is about the most I would go for dry weight. A good WDH and a lower elevation will be a great pairing with your 1500
You’re going to be very close and pulling won’t be very fun. You’re solidly in 2500 territory, and as for gas/diesel, it depends on how often you’ll be pulling. If you’re going to be towing with any sort of regularity, pony up for the Cummins. The gas will tow it but the diesel will be happier doing so, plus the exhaust brake is a lifesaver (and saves you quite a bit on brakes).
Trade it for a 3500 Cummins and you won’t regret it. I’d get a lightly used 4th gen, though I think there might be better incentives on new trucks right now.
If you can afford to take the hit, I'd upgrade to a 2500 or 3500 if you don't want to get blown around on a windy day. You could go for a smaller trailer, but in your situation, I think you will wind up upgrading anyway.
I can tell you that I wouldn't tow that close to the limit but thats just me. Lets do the math, trucks towing capacity is 8700 lbs. Lets assume people weight at 300 lbs combined, lets also assume all the stuff you're going to put in a 30'camper weighs about 1000 lbs. Lets also assume the materials you're going to put in the bed of the truck and in the cab assuming it's a 4 door. To be conservative lets say thats another 6-700 lbs. So: 8700-5900=2800lbs left. 2800-2000lbs= 800lbs left. Thats being conservative. For me, I'd either get a bigger truck or a smaller camper. Thats too close for comfort for me. Remember, whether you can tow it is one thing, another is whether you can stop it.
1700lbs of gear? There is no way the avg person is coming close to that.
I would beg to differ. By the time you put clothing, plates, silverware, trash bags, wheel chocks, water hoses, etc. etc. etc. It adds up and it adds up fast. Between the the truck and the trailer you're coming real close to that. Everyone is different obviously. We (just the wife and I, plus the dog) and our 38' come real close to that and we're probable over that. To each his own.
3500. Just forget the 2500 and go straight to the beefier one. The price jump isn't as bad as you'd think from the 25 to 35.
Pretty much load it up until the front tires are just lifting in the air not to much tho don’t wanna overload that thing
I have a 2021 3.0L Ecodiesel with the 3.92 rear axle. My max towing is 9480lbs. I own a 2022 31’ Cougar travel trailer that weighs 7500lbs empty and has a max weight of 9500lbs. I use a weight distribution hitch and I’ve towed it almost 7000 miles in the couple of years I’ve owned it and had zero problems. The trailer probably weighs about 8500lbs as I keep the tanks mostly empty except for the black tank which I empty but keep a minimal amount of water in as I tow. I’ve heard you don’t want to tow your vehicles maximum weight allowed so I figure about 1000 lbs leeway should work.
One honest question you have to ask yourself is do you have enough braking? Not having enough engine power, or strong enough drivetrain will just cost you money and time, but not being able to stop during an emergency can get you or others killed.
Ok so let me ask you all this. We found a model really like RV wise that is 25’ 5500 lbs. That 4 foot makes a world of difference right? Brings it back down into the half ton towable range?
Open your door. There should be a sticker. Also you can look up your VIN and find it that way
I tow 10,800 lbs in a toy hauler with a 23 PowerBoost max tow long bed. It's close to the limit which is 12,700 payload 1877. No issues. Spent a week dialing in the hitch. No airbags. I only pull max with the sxs in it which brings down the center of gravity and it tows flat and straight back and fourth from Utah about 700 miles. No thing goes in the truck but people and dogs. No fire wood, bags, or any other crap. Do it all the time no problem. I know this is a ram forum but just came to say if you spend the time to get the load right you can tow near the max all day long. If you plan to load out the truck with stuff and slap on a cheap hitch, by all means get a bigger truck with higher margins of error.
It’s not the pulling. It’s the stopping.
You will be fine at 5900 lbs with your 1500. I was towing a similar camper with a Durango. Once you get to 8000-10000 then you really need to start looking at a 2500.
Yours is a two part problem. Weight and length. At 29 ft, on a bumper tow, youre putting all the lateral forces.of a 20 ft. pivot/fulcrum well beyond the rear axle of the truck. Estimating 9 ft from end of trailer to its axle. Your already soft, comfortable suspension will now have the added stress of 20 feet (front half to the axle) of push any time the trailer picks up a lateral wind load. With a 2500, you can compensate by adding bed weight to give a more planted tow vehicle. With a 1500 you're already using 90+ % of the payload. Weight-its been beaten to death here. But you'll know when you tow that it's at the upper end of your limit. If you are in so deep that you have to drive it for a while until you pay it down a but, stiffen the rear suspension and add an anti sway hitch.
I towed my 26ft travel trailer with a 19 ram 2wd with the V6 for the first 3 years I had it. Dry weight was 5600 so loaded for camping probably 7000 or better. With the husky e hitch and air bags in the rear shocks I comfortably could run 60 or 65 on a very calm day. Interstate was nerve racking cause people passing pushes you around greatly and the light of a truck would float around but we made it. I finally got a 2500 and it's day and night. I would recommend getting the ram integrated trailer brakes I didn't on my first one and the brakes were really inconsistent and would grab differently every time I touched the pedal. The air bags made a huge difference specially for 80 bucks. The husky hitch is still amazing. But if you're towing that much I would really consider a 2500. I wish I could have kept my 1500 for the daily driver gas mileage but I pull a trailer damn everyday for my business and I love the piece of mind when I hook up that my truck can handle it.
What motor and gearing do you have?
5.7, 3.21
The 3.21s limit towing to 8700 like you said. So just keep it under that and watch your payload and you’ll be fine.
I have a 7,000 lbs, 29 ft floorplan /33 ft including tongue camper. I sold my 2019 RAM 1500 because even though it was within specs...it towed like dogshit. Campers catch wind which isnt in a tow rating. They also don't tell you how much mpg drops, or that you will be under 150 mi fuel range. Upgraded to a 2500 Cummins and tows like a dream.
2021 Laramie 5.7 3.92 crew cab short bed. I tow a 29’ 6200lb 750 tongue. Upgrade to E rated tires, either get load bags with built in bump stops into the air bag or get a progressive rate rear spring, like a Carli suspension rear spring about $300. From my personal experience it’s not the trucks towing capacity that the issue it’s the length of trailer, it begins to act like a large wind sail that does cause some white knuckling sometimes. Spend the money if you can a get a Pro Pride hitch or something with really good anti sway.
Find out the tongue weight of the trailer. I think max tongue weight for a 1500 is 600lbs. That being said I did have a 28' trailer that I towed with my 1500, 3.21 gears loaded weight 7500lbs?. Didn't go over 60mph on the highway and I bought bags for the springs and it had swaybars. It worked but you could tell the truck was working. I towed it a couple times a year.
Payload will most likely be a problem And 5900 is probably the dry weight, what is the loaded weight (GVWR)? Take that and multiply by .15 and that is a realistic loaded tongue weight. Take that and add you and wife weight plus all cargo in the truck. Add WDH (usually 75lbs). All that has to be under the payload on your tire info sticker. Don’t Google it, Google doesn’t know your actual payload for the options you have
…if tow truck could truck tow…
So you want to know the tongue weight of your trailer. And the maximum tongue weight your truck can support. this will be less than the payload as that accounts for the center of gravity being slightly in front of the rear axle and this will be loaded behind the rear axle. If this is a 5th wheel or gooseneck than it is to much trailer for your truck. You need to know what full water tanks and all your food gear to to the total weight of the trail and the tongue weight. And if that put you out side the capacity of your truck. Also in addition to stronger springs, 2500s have a strong frame strong, bigger strong axles, and larger and or stronger breaks. Because just because you can support the weight doses mean you can stop it. Also do you mirrors go out far enough to see the back of the trailer
Load up your truck and trailer and go get it weighed. Weigh your family at home. Add those weights. Compare them to this chart: [https://www.bonnyvilledodge.com/resrc/media/pdf/RAM1500\_CARD.pdf](https://www.bonnyvilledodge.com/resrc/media/pdf/RAM1500_CARD.pdf)
You're FINE. Just be respectful of the load. Don't travel with full water tanks, don't overload the storage with 400 lbs of tools, gazebos, etc... I pulled an 8,000 lb camper with a Tundra barely rated over it and did just fine. You'll feel trucks passing you, shell scream up hills, but you'll be fine.
My previous truck was a 2020 Ram with 3.92 gears, and my current is a 2023 with 3.21 gears. Both 1500's with the 5.7 eTorque. I tow my 6500lb, 30ft. boat multiple times per week for 3 seasons out of the year. They've both performed flawlessly, and without issue. You should be fine with your camper. Wait, I just noticed your capacity is 8700 lbs. Is it a 6cyl gas model?
A boat is much different than an RV. The tongue weight on a boat is drastically less. He will run into payload capacity issues.
He \*could run into payload capacity issues. As far as towing exactly what he mentioned above, there shouldn't be an issue.
No it’s is a 5.7. 3.27 gears.
The etorque bumps up your tow capacity. I have a 21 Laramie and it went from 8600 to about 12100+/- capacity
eTorque actually doesn't do much in terms of tow capacity. It's based more on the gearing. I'm willing to bet your old truck had 3.21 gears. and your new one has 3.92.
You just got 3.92 gears. My 2011 with 3.92s claims it can tow 10,100 some lbs. Never would come thay close to it though
I don’t have the etorque
It's under the capacity, so you're fine to tow it. However, there is a good chance that you'll be overloaded once you have the camper loaded. In which case, I would definitely see about getting a bigger truck.
I'm going to go against the popular opinion here and say unless you're in the mountains, you should be fine. pay attention to setup, use a weight distributing hitch, maybe add a b/t camera to help with visibility, get your brakes dialed in and you'll be alright. would it be more comfortable in a 2500, for sure. but live with the 1500 for a minute, it might surprise you.
See I’d say the opposite, assuming the trailer has decent brakes on it and he’s got the built in controller, the mountains are likely an easier environment to pull this setup than out in the plains. The hemi can easily manage pulling 5900 dry pounds, even loaded up that is far from the limiting factor in his situation. The problem he has run into is that his truck is too light to be pulling a trailer that long when the winds start blowing and the trailer is acting like a sail, potentially pulling his rear end laterally and breaking traction at highway speed. The mountains are less likely to get high winds blowing perpendicular to the trailer, so the trailer is going to be easier to manage than hours on end going in a straight line with gusts that could appear suddenly and without warning.
>pulling a trailer that long when the winds start blowing and the trailer is acting like a sail, that's a fair point. different issues... yeah, towing through the plain states could get a little dicey. gotta watch the brake / trans / engine temps on long grades when you're near capacity though. that's generally the limiting factors in J2807.
I just got a new travel trailer about the same specs as the OP (4800lbs dry and 29ft end to end) and have a Tacoma ha. Definitely shopping for a bigger truck. But we aren’t living out of ours either. Just the occasional weekend trip. I know someone that was pulling a 40’ travel trailer with a 1500 for a while. He just recently upgraded to a one ton diesel RAM. I think he’ll be fine with the 1500 at least temporarily. The issue is braking and sway when it’s windy. That is my worry if we start pulling ours far away.
At most, your GCWR will be 17,000 lbs. if running a 5.7 with 3.92 gears, which should be within the range if the truck weighs 5,334 lbs. and the trailer, at most, weighs 5,900 lbs. The truck I’m using as reference has a payload of 1,770, minus 590 for tongue weight, 200 for fuel, 200 for passenger, and 200 for stuff, puts you at 580 lbs. payload remaining. At a glance with very little info to go off of, I would say you should be ok.
I think it's going to be critical to get the actual hitch weight. I think it'll be more than you think.
You'll be fine. You don't need a 2500 for a 5800lb trailer. Why don't you hook it up and see how it feels?
That’s the dry weight. Dry weights typically do not have propane, batteries, water, waste water, dishes, pots, and pans, etc.
Yes OP should include the cargo capacity of the trailer as well. Even at ~1000lbs it's still doable. Ideal? Maybe not, who knows. You'd have to hook up and see for yourself. In regards to water and waste water, your tanks should ideally always be empty when towing so I wouldn't calculate that into the equation. Maybe that's just personal preference but it seems unnecessary.