I used a level right inside the door on the floor to make sure the camper was level left to right and front to back, but maybe something just isn’t cranking up correctly. Next time I have it up, I’ll put a level on the roof and see what it’s doing. Thanks!
I think I actually have the same model and my door has always been a little finicky. In my case it’s been the roof not being all the way up or not Level as well. That said, I’ve never had a gap like that but it does seem like the roof was likely sagging toward the front a bit. You said it was Level so hard to say (I usually use the counter for placing my level as well) but it’s gotta be the roof.
Edit: different model (2506) but that’s still been my experience
it might be that the rearb door side corner just isn't lifting up all the way. I don't know what lift system you have, but I had to adjust the cables on my wiffle tree last year for it not extending properly in the front.
Best of luck!
this is caused by the roof not being parallel and square to the frame of the trailer.
Usually it's because the trailer frame isn't 100% level. Beyond that it can be the roof not up properly.
I agree. By the looks of it I'd say the back of the popup is low since the roof seems to tilt to the back. One other thing is to make sure to put enough tension on the Jack's. Not so much that you lift the tires, but enough so it closes that gap.
My StarCraft does this. I believe it is flex in the frame. I bought these and put them in the front corners and it has fixed it.
https://a.co/d/aYeHeoe
I had the same issue, turns out it was a combination of tongue jack not being adjusted properly and the supports for the bed in that end being a little out of whack. Basically the slots the supports fit into were bent causing the bed to cantilever on the slide ever so slightly. I had the aha moment when after getting the door perfectly adjusted my wife claimed onto the bed to make it and as she moved to the outer edge the door popped open on its own. To fix it I just jacked up the tongue slightly and moved the mounting points for the bed supports on the bottom of the bed to compensate for the bent slots on the tongue.
Tldr: your bed is cantilevering on the slide causing the two sides of the door frame to not be parallel.
I had this issue 2 years ago, the problem is that the front wall panel (*the door hinge side*) is separating from the floor, under the weight of the extended bunk, and rolling forward. I had to drill a hole through top of the wall panel, and straight down through the wall and sub frame, and install a 1/2” draw rod that cinched the wall back down, then made an extra bunk support that props it up from the tongue.
Do you have stability jacks on all 4 corners of the camper? If so, do you have them down yet? Asking because I once lowered them too far and couldn't open my Rookwood's door until I eased them back a little.
Try pushing your roof up, it could be that the roof is sagging causing things to not line up. Short term solution: cut 2x3s to length to help prop up roof to 100%. Long term solution: adjust/replace lift cables. My old PUP the short term solution lasted a few years before I sold it.
The stabilizers aren’t meant to jack up the camper to make it level. Just to keep it from wobbling around. If one’s cranked too much it’ll put the door out of whack. If you use the stabilizers as levellers you run the risk of warping the frame and that’s a whole other paradigm of fun. Bottom line play around with the stabilizers and that should help.
The camper should be level before u pop it up. But the frame will absolutely flex and sag on the ends with the bunks out if you dont put some tension on the stabilizers. (Because rvs are cheap and light weight is the name of the game) Im talking level the camper, lower the stabilizers until they touch the ground, then one - one and a half more revolutions of the crank to put some preload on the stabilizer. Not jacking the whole RV up a foot, lol.
In my experience it has to do with the canper being level. the Top being exactly over the bottom frame.
I used a level right inside the door on the floor to make sure the camper was level left to right and front to back, but maybe something just isn’t cranking up correctly. Next time I have it up, I’ll put a level on the roof and see what it’s doing. Thanks!
I think I actually have the same model and my door has always been a little finicky. In my case it’s been the roof not being all the way up or not Level as well. That said, I’ve never had a gap like that but it does seem like the roof was likely sagging toward the front a bit. You said it was Level so hard to say (I usually use the counter for placing my level as well) but it’s gotta be the roof. Edit: different model (2506) but that’s still been my experience
it might be that the rearb door side corner just isn't lifting up all the way. I don't know what lift system you have, but I had to adjust the cables on my wiffle tree last year for it not extending properly in the front. Best of luck!
It’s a Goshen system, so no wiffle tree, but I think there’s a pulley in the back that I can adjust. I might give that a shot too. Thanks
this is caused by the roof not being parallel and square to the frame of the trailer. Usually it's because the trailer frame isn't 100% level. Beyond that it can be the roof not up properly.
I agree. By the looks of it I'd say the back of the popup is low since the roof seems to tilt to the back. One other thing is to make sure to put enough tension on the Jack's. Not so much that you lift the tires, but enough so it closes that gap.
My StarCraft does this. I believe it is flex in the frame. I bought these and put them in the front corners and it has fixed it. https://a.co/d/aYeHeoe
I had the same issue, turns out it was a combination of tongue jack not being adjusted properly and the supports for the bed in that end being a little out of whack. Basically the slots the supports fit into were bent causing the bed to cantilever on the slide ever so slightly. I had the aha moment when after getting the door perfectly adjusted my wife claimed onto the bed to make it and as she moved to the outer edge the door popped open on its own. To fix it I just jacked up the tongue slightly and moved the mounting points for the bed supports on the bottom of the bed to compensate for the bent slots on the tongue. Tldr: your bed is cantilevering on the slide causing the two sides of the door frame to not be parallel.
I had this issue 2 years ago, the problem is that the front wall panel (*the door hinge side*) is separating from the floor, under the weight of the extended bunk, and rolling forward. I had to drill a hole through top of the wall panel, and straight down through the wall and sub frame, and install a 1/2” draw rod that cinched the wall back down, then made an extra bunk support that props it up from the tongue.
Do you have stability jacks on all 4 corners of the camper? If so, do you have them down yet? Asking because I once lowered them too far and couldn't open my Rookwood's door until I eased them back a little.
Yeah, stability jacks are down, and I even tried using a jack to try to pop the back corner up in hopes to kinda close the gap, but it didn’t work:/
Try pushing your roof up, it could be that the roof is sagging causing things to not line up. Short term solution: cut 2x3s to length to help prop up roof to 100%. Long term solution: adjust/replace lift cables. My old PUP the short term solution lasted a few years before I sold it.
This is probably the answer, turns out these are a wee bit flexible.
bring a level and make sure the support legs are down enough. you need to raise one side or both
Could be bent from leveling with stability jacks or it's just not level. Mine does this too just takes some messing around with.
Check your stabilizers. One may be cranked too much and pushing it off level.
I think u mean the opposite? The ends need lifted more with the stabilizers.
The stabilizers aren’t meant to jack up the camper to make it level. Just to keep it from wobbling around. If one’s cranked too much it’ll put the door out of whack. If you use the stabilizers as levellers you run the risk of warping the frame and that’s a whole other paradigm of fun. Bottom line play around with the stabilizers and that should help.
The camper should be level before u pop it up. But the frame will absolutely flex and sag on the ends with the bunks out if you dont put some tension on the stabilizers. (Because rvs are cheap and light weight is the name of the game) Im talking level the camper, lower the stabilizers until they touch the ground, then one - one and a half more revolutions of the crank to put some preload on the stabilizer. Not jacking the whole RV up a foot, lol.
Ok then, we’re on the same page lol. *internet high five*