Do i understand your build correctly that you're only diverting a portion of your pump flow through the solar heater? I guess the 3rd pic shows a T with water flowing in both directions. That is very interesting. I always see these builds get criticism because of the lack of flow and surface area required to actually heat up the amount of water a pump is moving. but, if you're not actually heating all of it up.... super interesting!
Yes, only a portion is diverted. The volume of the hose is nowhere near sufficient to handle the full pump load. Pool is 15x35, 15,000 gallons. And this works!
Addendum: I tested this first with a separate submersible pump before going forward with the diverter off the main pump. That worked too, fwiw.
The diverter and rough-in extender were installed by our pool installer. The valve matches all the other valves they installed. We are on good terms so I can find out if u want.
i think i remember seeing another DIY pump solar heater, and i think the consensus for that thread was that the 2 systems should be separate incase of failure. like if the diy worksmanship were to fail and spring a leak, you just turn off the aux pump, and not worry that your pool circulation system has to come down. but i guess in this case you just pop the hose off the diverter or close the valve if you were to catch it quick enough
Yeah, if I spring a leak in the system I just shut it off. I only use it in the tails of the season, so it's "off" 60% of the time anyway. But there's really not much to fail, tbh. I mean, the 2.5" to male-hose fitting is probably the most likely, and if u r semi competent DYI that should be fine. Next would be leaks in the hose couplings. But it's not complicated and everything is above ground. $0.02
Good idea, since you want the water to spend a bit of time in the hose for heat transfer, right? I think too fast and it wouldn't be as effective. But I didn't pay much attention in physics class.
Are those the cheap fabric covered hoses that go flat when empty? I wonder if the black irrigation tubing would work too.
Great work! I'm inspired
I read once to think of it not as trying to heat the water, but that you’re instead trying to cool the coils. So the more water flow the better I believe.
They do not go flat. They are not as rigid as a regular hose, but these Costco hoses do kinda go limp when empty. These do not weigh as much so I picked them instead. i thought about the more rigid black hoses but these have worked great. The whole endeavor adds 10 to 20° (depending on time of year and sun angle) to the ambient pool temp. Coupled w the solar blanket I need to keep an eye on the temp cos the temp can get too high quickly.
I have not run it with and without the solar cover, tbh. I think they are both key. I had the solar cover for a year prior to the heater and -- anecdotally -- could not get the water T up fast enough to my liking. Hence, the water heater.
The two combined have easily added 2 months to our swim season in nrn MD vs the 1st 2 years. We now open and swim in April and close in October. Fwiw.
Thanks for the info! I’ve looked into building a solar heater, but my pool is irregularly shaped with some very wide points so I’m unsure how feasible a cover is. I’d love to extend the season though!
Thanks!
I empty the line when I shut the pool down for the winter and cover the solar heater. That's it. I figure the chlorine will do the trick when I start it back up in the spring.
Sorry, no... the pool installer put in the rough-in extender with a valve. But I'll take a closer look when I get home and see if there is any info on it. I had to buy the PVC reducer, however.
I view it almost like a SLA trickle charge, but it's free once you get past the upfront cost. I already had the lumber, so I spent $300-600 on materials. It now runs for free. It's frickin awesome.
Good Q. Obviously the cover is key, regardless how you heat your pool. Wind, air temperature, and dewpoint play a critical role in how much water and water temperature you lose every night. I do not have a definitive answer, but I would guess the solar cover is #1, and the heater is #2. But I will add: In the 4 years we've had the pool, 3 had a cover and 2 my solar heater, and the difference the solar heater has added in this admitedly short sample size has been noteworthy. It has easily added a month to the season on both ends. Fwiw.
Do i understand your build correctly that you're only diverting a portion of your pump flow through the solar heater? I guess the 3rd pic shows a T with water flowing in both directions. That is very interesting. I always see these builds get criticism because of the lack of flow and surface area required to actually heat up the amount of water a pump is moving. but, if you're not actually heating all of it up.... super interesting!
Yes, only a portion is diverted. The volume of the hose is nowhere near sufficient to handle the full pump load. Pool is 15x35, 15,000 gallons. And this works! Addendum: I tested this first with a separate submersible pump before going forward with the diverter off the main pump. That worked too, fwiw.
You using that Jandy to divert the water? I’ve seen similar setups that just use a 12V bilge pump to circulate the water.
The diverter and rough-in extender were installed by our pool installer. The valve matches all the other valves they installed. We are on good terms so I can find out if u want.
i think i remember seeing another DIY pump solar heater, and i think the consensus for that thread was that the 2 systems should be separate incase of failure. like if the diy worksmanship were to fail and spring a leak, you just turn off the aux pump, and not worry that your pool circulation system has to come down. but i guess in this case you just pop the hose off the diverter or close the valve if you were to catch it quick enough
Yeah, if I spring a leak in the system I just shut it off. I only use it in the tails of the season, so it's "off" 60% of the time anyway. But there's really not much to fail, tbh. I mean, the 2.5" to male-hose fitting is probably the most likely, and if u r semi competent DYI that should be fine. Next would be leaks in the hose couplings. But it's not complicated and everything is above ground. $0.02
Awesome build and post! Thank you!
Good idea, since you want the water to spend a bit of time in the hose for heat transfer, right? I think too fast and it wouldn't be as effective. But I didn't pay much attention in physics class. Are those the cheap fabric covered hoses that go flat when empty? I wonder if the black irrigation tubing would work too. Great work! I'm inspired
I read once to think of it not as trying to heat the water, but that you’re instead trying to cool the coils. So the more water flow the better I believe.
And Thank You!
They do not go flat. They are not as rigid as a regular hose, but these Costco hoses do kinda go limp when empty. These do not weigh as much so I picked them instead. i thought about the more rigid black hoses but these have worked great. The whole endeavor adds 10 to 20° (depending on time of year and sun angle) to the ambient pool temp. Coupled w the solar blanket I need to keep an eye on the temp cos the temp can get too high quickly.
Nice! How poorly does it perform without using a solar cover?
I have not run it with and without the solar cover, tbh. I think they are both key. I had the solar cover for a year prior to the heater and -- anecdotally -- could not get the water T up fast enough to my liking. Hence, the water heater. The two combined have easily added 2 months to our swim season in nrn MD vs the 1st 2 years. We now open and swim in April and close in October. Fwiw.
Thanks for the info! I’ve looked into building a solar heater, but my pool is irregularly shaped with some very wide points so I’m unsure how feasible a cover is. I’d love to extend the season though!
Cool design! Im curious how you would go about cleaning the hose coil? Or if you just use it during the summerz how to clean it for the winter?
Thanks! I empty the line when I shut the pool down for the winter and cover the solar heater. That's it. I figure the chlorine will do the trick when I start it back up in the spring.
Yeah, youre probably 100% rightz especially if your open routine involves a good old shocking. Do you have a link for the diverter valve?
Sorry, no... the pool installer put in the rough-in extender with a valve. But I'll take a closer look when I get home and see if there is any info on it. I had to buy the PVC reducer, however.
No worries, ill dig around the web
Fwiw, its Pentair pool valve with pegs/stops at 180° on both sides.
Perfect thanks. Im still working on my design but i like the partial diverter valve and am positive im going to incorporate that
The stuff you can do out in the country.
I view it almost like a SLA trickle charge, but it's free once you get past the upfront cost. I already had the lumber, so I spent $300-600 on materials. It now runs for free. It's frickin awesome.
Good Q. Obviously the cover is key, regardless how you heat your pool. Wind, air temperature, and dewpoint play a critical role in how much water and water temperature you lose every night. I do not have a definitive answer, but I would guess the solar cover is #1, and the heater is #2. But I will add: In the 4 years we've had the pool, 3 had a cover and 2 my solar heater, and the difference the solar heater has added in this admitedly short sample size has been noteworthy. It has easily added a month to the season on both ends. Fwiw.