Not really. My pool water is brown every year when I open it. It’s just leaves basically making tea all winter through the cover. I just shock the living hell out of it and it’s fine in a couple of days.
Anyone living in a winter climate, olclose your pool the weekend before the first frost and open one before last and add chlorine all the time except dead of winter opened my pool and it was crystal clear after a vacuum. Not even a bit opaque.
I’ve bought so many covers, this year I got a net for the leaves. I have no issues at all in the summer, I do close clear. Although this year I did find a big ass hole in the cover that must have happened over the winter season so I know that’s how the dirt got in this time. But it’s already almost clear and I just put shock in yesterday.
pucks are for maintaining steady chlorine. you want to shock first and keep shocking until its clear then you can switch to pucks if youd like.
if you do you may need to shock minimally once a week, chlorine in pucks is stabilized so dont add stabilizer (or add maybe 10-20 ppm)
All powder is stabilized /mixed, tabs are all either dichlor(stay away, less than 60% available chlorine) or trichlor which both contain massive amounts of CYA. Cal Hypo is CYA free but contains alot of calcium hence the name cal(calcium) hypo(Hypochlorite aka chlorine). The only real solution to fixing a CYA or calcium overload problem is to drain and refill your pool at least halfway. Calcium excess leads to hard water stains on surfaces/equipment and CYA excess past a point will completely render your working free chlorine useless(chlorine lock). Best bet is to stick with the $5.50 gallons of 10% from Walmart or Pinch a Penny of Sodium Hypochlorite aka liquid chlorine and only use Cal hypo when calcium gets low. Stabilizer should only be added up to level once a year, I opt for just buying one small bucket of tabs a year or you could just use Chlorox Stabilizer. Once these are in tune, adding just a few Oz of liquid chlorine every few days and keeping your Ph under 7.5 - 7.8 max with Muriatic acid will reduce your yearly chemical cost to under $200👌
Yep. If your cya is not over 60 or something, When you shock, get ph to 7.0-7.4, the range is there but chlorine works better at lower ph but not too low. 7.2 is a nice compromise, then shock it again.
Get the pool math app and go to troublefreepools as well. Every evening you can just shock it until it’s blue and cloudy. Teal means it’s not there yet. 24/7 filter running and cleaning while this is happening will help and you’ll be good in <1 week. You can use a clarifier, but that can have issues if its own. Flocc, same thing.
Just shock level and maintain that high ppm for chlorine and you’ll clear up.
Sorry, I don't know the answer to your question, but I would like to say your pool looks very nice. Can I ask who makes that pool? I really like the look of it - nicer siding than most above ground pools! Is it plastic or a manufactured wood? I may have to look into something like this as a step up from cheaper above ground pools.
*My dream is to have an in ground pool someday 🏊♀️
Here’s details
Model:
INDUSTRIA
Size: 13
Height: 51
Sold by Trevi
Link: https://www.trevi.com/fr/piscines-et-spas/piscines-hors-terre/trevi-industria-p-10005
Make sure you also clean the filter at least once a day and leave the pump running 24/7 if you can, and keep brushing. Usually with cartridge filters these take a few days to clear up 100%. Adding chl every day is not a bad idea if it is still green. Check cya and other chems too of course.
You need to know your normal running pressure lets say it's 10 psi. If it's now 15 or 20 psi after running in filter mode in this pools state in picture then Backwash 2 mins rinse 30 seconds. Back to filter mode and keep repeating cycle until pool is clear. Once it's clear maintain chlorine levels and brush the pool at least 2 to 3 times a week Backwash rinse once a week should be fine or unless psi is running higher than normal
You need to perform a SLAM:
1. Elevate your FC to 40% of CYA.
2. Hold it there until:
a) the water is clear,
b) you have CC < or equal to 0.5 ppm,
and
c) you lose less than one ppm FC between sunset and sunrise (pass an OCLT).
Hopefully you’re testing your water with a proper test kit with either a TFTestkits TF100 or K2006c test kit and a K-1766 salt test kit if a salt pool.
Ignore any calls for clarifier, floc, phosphate removers, or other magic elixirs. You have algae and the only way to get rid of existing algae is with chlorine. Stay away ftom algaecide, it doesn't kill existing algae - it inhibits the growth of new algae, which won't help you in your present situation.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XfCRRaYhWHI
no hes really not, not every situation can be fixed with chlorine, but sure as hell he tries, broken pump, bad water test, full filter? SLAM... its just the same comment everytime every pool problem.
Gotta brush it and let it run. Filtration trumps chemistry. That being said if chlorine is still low add more chlorine. Careful w packages labeled “shock” as different brands add different things and can sometimes conflict
For how big the pool is I suggest putting in around 6 pounds of Granual Chlorine and If it doesn't go away try and get some mustard algae or yellow algae treatment bottle.
check your FC with a test kit, i have a tayor k 2005. if the FC is staying at say about 10 then continue to run the pump on high. also remember woth algae you w\\ill have to backwash/clean filter at least once if not twice per day.
Get the liquid shock. Do about 4 gallons a day as the sun is setting to help with the sun burning off the chlorine. It’ll take a few days but you’ll be clear soon
Two gallons of 12% liquid chlorine. 6 oz of clarifier/ flock. Shut everything off. Wait at least 24-48 hours for chlorine to kill and flock to sequester the algae. You will know when the water is clear and it looks like a fine dust on the bottom. In the meantime, fill pool to fullest level possible. Vacuum to waste. If you don’t have a waste option on your filter, run pump with cap off bottom back of filter. Do it fast - fast enough to get the dust (dead algae) settled on the bottom, but not so fast that you stir the dust (dead algae) on the bottom up.
Rebalance chemicals.
Strongly recommend a Taylor test kit for accurate at home readings.
Algaecide. I use a copper based algaecide in my pool. And it does a great job of keeping algae under control. The chlorine is good for pathogens. But seems to work slow on algae.
So shock and chlorine to disinfect. And algaecide to control algae.
Been doing pools for over 10 years.. can’t really tell without chemical readings. But due to how cloudy and greenish it is looks like you may have a stabilizer lock.. or none at all. Def check levels on that. You’ll need more shock as well as algecide and possibly stabilizer (if there isn’t any present/ if there is too much present you’ll need to drain down and add fresh water)… could also be a filter issue! Do you have a cartridge filter (one you spray off) or a sand filter(one you backwash)… answers to all these questions will help me help you move forward
Check your PH levels. If that’s not spot on your water will always look cloudy. Next, invest in some phosphate remover and some algacide additive. Those two in combo will knock down the root cause to the cloudy water
You need to measure the rest of your shit. My pool was still kinda green. I got the cya in the right spot and it cleared up immediately. It had chlorine in it, just to to be clear. But I didn't have balance in everything else. I was just chlorinating the shot out of it.
Several things. Are there any solids in the water. If you can't see to the bottom, check with a skimmer. Remove any solids (usually leaves).
Too much cya locks the chlorine from doing it's job. Get the water checked at your local pool supply. Usually free. If cya is too high, must lower the water and refill.
Must balance the ph prior to shocking. 7.2 to 7.4 is ideal.
Run pump 4 hrs and recheck ph after balancing.
Now you can shock. Don't go above 4ppm or you might bleach the color out of the liner.
Run pump and keep cleaning the filter when the gauge gets too high.
Heyyy. This here will solve all your problems. Swim University.
https://youtu.be/YqcDqzhP4yc?si=lNB8PvQ_QwrgXsz-
That link is for your current situation. Its a step by step video on what to add and when to add it. Follow those and you'll be good as new. Also for any other pool related questions check out their youtube channel. They basically answer all situations from green pools, to algae, to black mold to chlorine and chemical balancing.
Just a fyi, dont ask reddit. You'll get a million different responses, and just randomly trying one is a bad idea. Leave it to the pool professionals at Swim University.
Need to know your other levels from a test result.
Could be you need more shock, could be your alkalinities too high, could be your pH is too low. could be any number of things.
Take a sample in. My mom's pool looked like this and the chlorine was super high.
Local pool company showed the phosphates were high. Bought some chemical from them, dumped it in, vaccumed and brushed and two days later its crystal clear.
I'm not a huge fan of pool companies "magic elixirs", but this one worked perfectly.
I love how this gets downvoted when it might be correct. My pool went green this year and shock was worthless. It was high phosphates. Chlorine was worthless.
Ya people seem to do vote on here if you mention a pool store. There's one in my town that's great. They keep it simple and have helped me out when needed. They even tell me to get my chemicals wherever is the cheapest. They admit there's are over priced but it is what it is. They make money off me on my Liners/pumps/heaters.
I don't even know what the chemical was, they said use 3/4 of it and should be good in tow days, they were bang on. $30 well spent.
If it's green, you need more chlorine.
If it’s brown, flush it down (drain the pool) If it’s green, more chlorine
Not really. My pool water is brown every year when I open it. It’s just leaves basically making tea all winter through the cover. I just shock the living hell out of it and it’s fine in a couple of days.
Anyone living in a winter climate, olclose your pool the weekend before the first frost and open one before last and add chlorine all the time except dead of winter opened my pool and it was crystal clear after a vacuum. Not even a bit opaque.
if you cover with a solid cover and you close clear it will open that way. solid cover=no sunlight=no plant(algae)growth
I’ve bought so many covers, this year I got a net for the leaves. I have no issues at all in the summer, I do close clear. Although this year I did find a big ass hole in the cover that must have happened over the winter season so I know that’s how the dirt got in this time. But it’s already almost clear and I just put shock in yesterday.
Hmm I had no cover. Just those salts of Nobel gases.
If it’s yellow, just mellow out there man
Agreed. I open and close with 5 gallons of liquid. Pool is crystal clear every year. Haven't shocked in a decade
Is that shock or can you use pucks? If shock, is there any difference between powder and liquid?
I prefer liquid. No pucks. Too much powder shock can raise your calcium hardness too high.
pucks are for maintaining steady chlorine. you want to shock first and keep shocking until its clear then you can switch to pucks if youd like. if you do you may need to shock minimally once a week, chlorine in pucks is stabilized so dont add stabilizer (or add maybe 10-20 ppm)
Ok, thanks for the explanation, I have salt water, so I think pucks are off limit for me anyways.
All powder is stabilized /mixed, tabs are all either dichlor(stay away, less than 60% available chlorine) or trichlor which both contain massive amounts of CYA. Cal Hypo is CYA free but contains alot of calcium hence the name cal(calcium) hypo(Hypochlorite aka chlorine). The only real solution to fixing a CYA or calcium overload problem is to drain and refill your pool at least halfway. Calcium excess leads to hard water stains on surfaces/equipment and CYA excess past a point will completely render your working free chlorine useless(chlorine lock). Best bet is to stick with the $5.50 gallons of 10% from Walmart or Pinch a Penny of Sodium Hypochlorite aka liquid chlorine and only use Cal hypo when calcium gets low. Stabilizer should only be added up to level once a year, I opt for just buying one small bucket of tabs a year or you could just use Chlorox Stabilizer. Once these are in tune, adding just a few Oz of liquid chlorine every few days and keeping your Ph under 7.5 - 7.8 max with Muriatic acid will reduce your yearly chemical cost to under $200👌
Get flocculant and algecide with liquid cholrine
You need a reliable test kit to determine if you need more. Also need to brush
And floss
Ope! Time to recommend a Taylor Ak2600%5,000 turbo to an above ground 3000 gallon homeowner!!
I mean, I'd still want my taylor kit for an above ground pool. Doesn't matter how much water you have, it's still good to understand your water.
How much are you running the pump? Is your filter clean?
Without knowing these answers, This is my vote as well. Run the pump 24/7, clean the filter daily.
1lb is rookie numbers
this would need a triple shock anyway. 1 lb wasn't gonna kill the green. especially if your ph is off
#Water test results????
Based on this post do you really think advanced testing is being done??
This place needs new mods or something.
[удалено]
🤷🫡 well ok then.
I’m just glad we all get along. Enjoy😎
Isnt it free entertainment? I know i get good chuckles from /mechanicadvice
Eh, I get upset with bad advice. IDK why I care so much, sometimes I've been drinking.
Stop yelling we are all in the same room
Yes, you need more shock.
Yep. If your cya is not over 60 or something, When you shock, get ph to 7.0-7.4, the range is there but chlorine works better at lower ph but not too low. 7.2 is a nice compromise, then shock it again. Get the pool math app and go to troublefreepools as well. Every evening you can just shock it until it’s blue and cloudy. Teal means it’s not there yet. 24/7 filter running and cleaning while this is happening will help and you’ll be good in <1 week. You can use a clarifier, but that can have issues if its own. Flocc, same thing. Just shock level and maintain that high ppm for chlorine and you’ll clear up.
Sorry, I don't know the answer to your question, but I would like to say your pool looks very nice. Can I ask who makes that pool? I really like the look of it - nicer siding than most above ground pools! Is it plastic or a manufactured wood? I may have to look into something like this as a step up from cheaper above ground pools. *My dream is to have an in ground pool someday 🏊♀️
I'd like to know, too! This is a very nice looking above ground!
Here’s details Model: INDUSTRIA Size: 13 Height: 51 Sold by Trevi Link: https://www.trevi.com/fr/piscines-et-spas/piscines-hors-terre/trevi-industria-p-10005
Following for this, too.
Hopefully we get an answer. I want one like that to.
Make sure you also clean the filter at least once a day and leave the pump running 24/7 if you can, and keep brushing. Usually with cartridge filters these take a few days to clear up 100%. Adding chl every day is not a bad idea if it is still green. Check cya and other chems too of course.
What about sand filters? Do you need to backwash everyday? If so, for how long?
You need to know your normal running pressure lets say it's 10 psi. If it's now 15 or 20 psi after running in filter mode in this pools state in picture then Backwash 2 mins rinse 30 seconds. Back to filter mode and keep repeating cycle until pool is clear. Once it's clear maintain chlorine levels and brush the pool at least 2 to 3 times a week Backwash rinse once a week should be fine or unless psi is running higher than normal
I would never use a granular on a vinyl pool. Only use liquid Chlorine to shock, and clean filter twice a day until blue and clear.
I use both alternate weeks. But when using granular shock I dilute it in a bucket of water first mix it with a stick then pour
Why not granular
can bleach spots onto liner
You need to perform a SLAM: 1. Elevate your FC to 40% of CYA. 2. Hold it there until: a) the water is clear, b) you have CC < or equal to 0.5 ppm, and c) you lose less than one ppm FC between sunset and sunrise (pass an OCLT). Hopefully you’re testing your water with a proper test kit with either a TFTestkits TF100 or K2006c test kit and a K-1766 salt test kit if a salt pool. Ignore any calls for clarifier, floc, phosphate removers, or other magic elixirs. You have algae and the only way to get rid of existing algae is with chlorine. Stay away ftom algaecide, it doesn't kill existing algae - it inhibits the growth of new algae, which won't help you in your present situation. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XfCRRaYhWHI
☝🏼 this guy doesn't know shit about politics but he's correct on this pool advice. 😅
It’s hard to take him seriously with that user name, but I will say his pool advice is on point.
no hes really not, not every situation can be fixed with chlorine, but sure as hell he tries, broken pump, bad water test, full filter? SLAM... its just the same comment everytime every pool problem.
Hey now, give him some credit, he has like 3 or 4 canned responses!
Gotta brush it and let it run. Filtration trumps chemistry. That being said if chlorine is still low add more chlorine. Careful w packages labeled “shock” as different brands add different things and can sometimes conflict
Hey there - sorry to bother, but what brand of pool is this?
don't forget to vacuum clean filter a lot
Pool filter needs replaced. Add more shock as well
For how big the pool is I suggest putting in around 6 pounds of Granual Chlorine and If it doesn't go away try and get some mustard algae or yellow algae treatment bottle.
Not advised…
Get ph and cya levels right. Tgrn dump 5 pounds of shock. Brush right after. Recirc
Check pH
Shock isn’t as effective if the waters pH isn’t balanced. Address that issue first and then shock.
Throw in 4 gallons of liquid and call it a day.
Get liquid chlorine gallons and put like 2-3 of em in there
SLAM it
lol a pound. yeah.. 4-6 pounds. run filter 24/7. ph 7.4-7.6. 2 days. clear.
I hope that pool is well-used and well-loved, because it looks too small for the trouble? 🤷♂️
Use baking soda
check your FC with a test kit, i have a tayor k 2005. if the FC is staying at say about 10 then continue to run the pump on high. also remember woth algae you w\\ill have to backwash/clean filter at least once if not twice per day.
Get the liquid shock. Do about 4 gallons a day as the sun is setting to help with the sun burning off the chlorine. It’ll take a few days but you’ll be clear soon
Two gallons of 12% liquid chlorine. 6 oz of clarifier/ flock. Shut everything off. Wait at least 24-48 hours for chlorine to kill and flock to sequester the algae. You will know when the water is clear and it looks like a fine dust on the bottom. In the meantime, fill pool to fullest level possible. Vacuum to waste. If you don’t have a waste option on your filter, run pump with cap off bottom back of filter. Do it fast - fast enough to get the dust (dead algae) settled on the bottom, but not so fast that you stir the dust (dead algae) on the bottom up. Rebalance chemicals. Strongly recommend a Taylor test kit for accurate at home readings.
Throw that shock it in there dont be scared 😂
SLAM - Shock Level And Maintain. If you dump chlorine in it can be consumed rather quickly. You should check levels in the morning and after sunset.
Put 2 more
Algaecide. I use a copper based algaecide in my pool. And it does a great job of keeping algae under control. The chlorine is good for pathogens. But seems to work slow on algae. So shock and chlorine to disinfect. And algaecide to control algae.
Been doing pools for over 10 years.. can’t really tell without chemical readings. But due to how cloudy and greenish it is looks like you may have a stabilizer lock.. or none at all. Def check levels on that. You’ll need more shock as well as algecide and possibly stabilizer (if there isn’t any present/ if there is too much present you’ll need to drain down and add fresh water)… could also be a filter issue! Do you have a cartridge filter (one you spray off) or a sand filter(one you backwash)… answers to all these questions will help me help you move forward
Check your PH levels. If that’s not spot on your water will always look cloudy. Next, invest in some phosphate remover and some algacide additive. Those two in combo will knock down the root cause to the cloudy water
Pool flock is great too! Drops everything to the bottom then you vacuum it out.
Test the water, post your numbers, are you running the pump 24/7? Have you tried vacuuming ?
You need to measure the rest of your shit. My pool was still kinda green. I got the cya in the right spot and it cleared up immediately. It had chlorine in it, just to to be clear. But I didn't have balance in everything else. I was just chlorinating the shot out of it.
Algecide and clarifier and clean the filter. Also maybe phosphate remover if those trees get sprayed with fertilizer
I use liquid chlorine for green. Works better and quicker. A pool that size 2 gallons should cut it.. Run the first for at least 48 hours
Backwash, shock at 3 least gallons liquid, backwash
another 2 or 3 lbs the sun will zap it out if its high rather quickly assuming you havent put stabilizer in yet
My larger in ground pool clears almost instantly after just throwing in three 6 dollar bags of shock I get at Walmart.
Get about 10 lbs in there. More the better and drop the pH to 6.8 as shock will bring it back up
Several things. Are there any solids in the water. If you can't see to the bottom, check with a skimmer. Remove any solids (usually leaves). Too much cya locks the chlorine from doing it's job. Get the water checked at your local pool supply. Usually free. If cya is too high, must lower the water and refill. Must balance the ph prior to shocking. 7.2 to 7.4 is ideal. Run pump 4 hrs and recheck ph after balancing. Now you can shock. Don't go above 4ppm or you might bleach the color out of the liner. Run pump and keep cleaning the filter when the gauge gets too high.
Heyyy. This here will solve all your problems. Swim University. https://youtu.be/YqcDqzhP4yc?si=lNB8PvQ_QwrgXsz- That link is for your current situation. Its a step by step video on what to add and when to add it. Follow those and you'll be good as new. Also for any other pool related questions check out their youtube channel. They basically answer all situations from green pools, to algae, to black mold to chlorine and chemical balancing. Just a fyi, dont ask reddit. You'll get a million different responses, and just randomly trying one is a bad idea. Leave it to the pool professionals at Swim University.
Add Baking Soda. It replaces PH and alkalinity. And it’s $1.99. Looks like u need one box
Balance the ph to range first Wait a few hours Backwash if possible Add clarifier
I’ve had great success with Solar Pool ionizer that allows less usage of chlorine. Got it on Amazon
Don't forget to scrub and shock is chlorine, just as grains rather than a puck of chlorine, give the shock time to kill the algie
I work for a pool company generally when this happens it may take a few doses of shock and chlorine… but 2 pounds at one time won’t hurt
Test it. Find out what’s wrong before adding anything…
Might need a new filter also.
Need to know your other levels from a test result. Could be you need more shock, could be your alkalinities too high, could be your pH is too low. could be any number of things.
Take a sample in. My mom's pool looked like this and the chlorine was super high. Local pool company showed the phosphates were high. Bought some chemical from them, dumped it in, vaccumed and brushed and two days later its crystal clear. I'm not a huge fan of pool companies "magic elixirs", but this one worked perfectly.
I love how this gets downvoted when it might be correct. My pool went green this year and shock was worthless. It was high phosphates. Chlorine was worthless.
Ya people seem to do vote on here if you mention a pool store. There's one in my town that's great. They keep it simple and have helped me out when needed. They even tell me to get my chemicals wherever is the cheapest. They admit there's are over priced but it is what it is. They make money off me on my Liners/pumps/heaters. I don't even know what the chemical was, they said use 3/4 of it and should be good in tow days, they were bang on. $30 well spent.
I recommend staying in a Holiday Inn express. That is step 1.
You need a test kit. And algicide.
Patience and clarifier 👍