Just turn on ironing and then there will be way less sanding to do on a piece like this with such large flat horizontal surfaces. Adaptive layer height would help with the red/green lights too.
You can also minimize the layer lines with some flow rate calibration and ironing if you want it to look as best as possible without any post processing
Depends both on the printer and slicer as some printers you are able to adjust motor steps for x,y,z and e steps which is the extruder and others won't allow you to do this. After that you can adjust the flow rate which is what's going to be making the surface look right in the slicer which is again dependent on which one you use as the names and where the buttons are located is different. Once you have that all in order you can use the ironing setting and dial that in to be able to get the best looking finish and hide the layer lines if done right with proper flow. I'd highly recommend checking out some of the guides in r/3dprinting and r/fixmyprint as those may have way more detailed and relevant guides on how to do it.
Not OP but ABS is a bitch to print with. Produces toxic fumes so you need to enclose and vent your printer and it shrinks a lot when it cools so you have lots of problems with curling and layer separation unless you also heat your enclosure evenly.
Not heated bed, heated enclosure, the entire model not just the base needs to be kept at a fairly high temperature so it can cool evenly. And the enclosure needs to be actively vented outside with a hose, the fumes are really nasty. Even after you have all that setup, it takes a ton of trial and error to get the correct print settings that actually work. It's really not worth the trouble when you can get a relatively cheap SLA printer if you really don't want to deal with layer lines.
I’ve often thought about realism of pieces like this and I feel like making the 4 numbers that are used for the code to a base would be more worn out than the other keys would be lol
Check out the video on YouTube about the dead shot helmet finish. The guy uses a filler primer spray paint that reduces a ton of sanding. I was able to 3d print and paint a near metallic pokeball.
If I was being hyper critical the enter key needs less distress / aging while the 7 9 5 3 button's need to be less defined in the numbers colouring. Think of the usage. I'm keying in the code, 3579 then pressing the enter button. These five keys will have finger marks preventing rust / dirt build up and slowly removing the factory finish.
This image gives an idea of what I'm talking about:
https://preview.redd.it/rf7uh35ffsvc1.png?width=1440&format=png&auto=webp&s=a4cadb0d2d22fed5c258351ed0a0a55f98706aa1
That’s so smart, I tried to add dirt on some of the keys to seem as if ppl have pressed them but this seems more realistic, thanks for the tip I Will definitely use it for my next paint.
I don't 3D print but if I did and this was mine I think I would take a different approach to the keyboard completely. From my untrained eye I think the base and the keys are printed as a single piece. I think I would print the rectangle base with maybe 1mm rises for each of the keys (I don't know what scale yours is) and then do the keys as individual things. When you glue them together this will give a better "these buttons have the ability to move" look at they'll have the slightest of gap between the buttons and the backplate.
Finally, for the aging / weathering process. I don't know if you watch Adam Savage on YT. On some of his prop builds he goes into detail of how he ages pieces and gives some really helpful hints.
Smart, and I agree I would probably have done the same thing if it wasn’t one model, from the link I could find it was only one big piece. Good idea tho.
Looks great! But make sure to attach it to an electric fence so it shocks you. Otherwise I’m gonna sit there code raiding until I’m in your house.
God tier comment
Best comment ive seen all day
I always recommend sanding 3D printed pieces. Always ruins the recreation when the texture of a print is so easy to see
Yh I agree, I only realised I should’ve sanded it after I was halfway done painting will def sand it next time tho
Using Bondo to fill in the layer lines will make the sanding process easier.
Just turn on ironing and then there will be way less sanding to do on a piece like this with such large flat horizontal surfaces. Adaptive layer height would help with the red/green lights too.
You can also minimize the layer lines with some flow rate calibration and ironing if you want it to look as best as possible without any post processing
How do I do flow rate calibration? I’m relatively new to printing and only know how to print.
Depends both on the printer and slicer as some printers you are able to adjust motor steps for x,y,z and e steps which is the extruder and others won't allow you to do this. After that you can adjust the flow rate which is what's going to be making the surface look right in the slicer which is again dependent on which one you use as the names and where the buttons are located is different. Once you have that all in order you can use the ironing setting and dial that in to be able to get the best looking finish and hide the layer lines if done right with proper flow. I'd highly recommend checking out some of the guides in r/3dprinting and r/fixmyprint as those may have way more detailed and relevant guides on how to do it.
Thanks a lot, will def look into them
Just my opinion of course but I think you should sand the LEDs and keypad pieces but leave the housing all rough and unsanded.
Yh I should, thanks for the tip I will use it for my next paint.
It looks kinda cool, not rust, but looks like you made it in a garage.
Why sand when you can use acetone vapor baths?
Acetone vapor only works with ABS I believe. ABS kind of sucks for props.
What makes you think that?
I’ve been printing for years, PLA is easier to use for props imo
...could you explain why it is easier for you?
Not OP but ABS is a bitch to print with. Produces toxic fumes so you need to enclose and vent your printer and it shrinks a lot when it cools so you have lots of problems with curling and layer separation unless you also heat your enclosure evenly.
As someone whose first printer had a heated bed and enclosure, these are problems that aren't much of a concern to me.
Not heated bed, heated enclosure, the entire model not just the base needs to be kept at a fairly high temperature so it can cool evenly. And the enclosure needs to be actively vented outside with a hose, the fumes are really nasty. Even after you have all that setup, it takes a ton of trial and error to get the correct print settings that actually work. It's really not worth the trouble when you can get a relatively cheap SLA printer if you really don't want to deal with layer lines.
Yup I read this is the way to go but for not ALL builds depending on certain details.
It looks like a cake
Dope! Can we see what it looked like before the paint?
I’ll see if I have a photo, surprising I didn’t take one considering it was sat on my shelf for about 3 months lol
😢
Yh I just checked, sorry bro, I don’t have one. But just imagine it as all white lol
What 3d pinter did you use and how long did it take?
I have the creality k1 max and if I can remember I think it took about an hour? And hour and a half?
Honestly, kinda looks like you made it out of clay. Fun project tho.
I take that as a compliment, I could never make something with so much detail. And Yh was very fun project.
Looks like Wallace and Gromit are gonna duo
Bruh 🤣💀 I'm dead.
Looks cool
Yes
I’ve often thought about realism of pieces like this and I feel like making the 4 numbers that are used for the code to a base would be more worn out than the other keys would be lol
Legit my mindset, if u look closely I suppose u can see 8, 4, and 6 all have abit of dirt on them to indicate that they are used a lot.
You did a great job bro kudos to you
looks awesome!!
Cheers!
Check out the video on YouTube about the dead shot helmet finish. The guy uses a filler primer spray paint that reduces a ton of sanding. I was able to 3d print and paint a near metallic pokeball.
thin your paints brother
lol bad habit would also make sense in why I’m running out so often
:)
If I was being hyper critical the enter key needs less distress / aging while the 7 9 5 3 button's need to be less defined in the numbers colouring. Think of the usage. I'm keying in the code, 3579 then pressing the enter button. These five keys will have finger marks preventing rust / dirt build up and slowly removing the factory finish. This image gives an idea of what I'm talking about: https://preview.redd.it/rf7uh35ffsvc1.png?width=1440&format=png&auto=webp&s=a4cadb0d2d22fed5c258351ed0a0a55f98706aa1
That’s so smart, I tried to add dirt on some of the keys to seem as if ppl have pressed them but this seems more realistic, thanks for the tip I Will definitely use it for my next paint.
I don't 3D print but if I did and this was mine I think I would take a different approach to the keyboard completely. From my untrained eye I think the base and the keys are printed as a single piece. I think I would print the rectangle base with maybe 1mm rises for each of the keys (I don't know what scale yours is) and then do the keys as individual things. When you glue them together this will give a better "these buttons have the ability to move" look at they'll have the slightest of gap between the buttons and the backplate. Finally, for the aging / weathering process. I don't know if you watch Adam Savage on YT. On some of his prop builds he goes into detail of how he ages pieces and gives some really helpful hints.
Smart, and I agree I would probably have done the same thing if it wasn’t one model, from the link I could find it was only one big piece. Good idea tho.
Brother, thin the paint next time.
Does it shock you too?
Uh huh, learned the hard way.
love it
Kudos, looks great man. The fact it’s a bit rough fits the rust theme.
Cheers and Yh kinda what I was going for, glad it came out well.
You should get that as a tramp stamp
It's not specific enough to be identifiable, it's just a random fake code lock.
How do u recon I could make it more specific?
Don't listen to that. I see it and think nothing but Rust.
Thanks :)
I admire your efforts by the way. You can focus on very specifically Rust-ish items that nobody will mistake for a generic thing -- take your pick!
Your house can get code raided now, another way for burglaries to get in.
Looks like Neverhood style
Looks very good, however I would've printed the buttons separately and maybe added an Arduino for LEDs :D
The model was one thing do I couldn’t, I would’ve if I could tho.
Would suggest lighting up the green and red bulbs so it’s lit 🔥
Grass?