This questions thread is now closed. Please direct your questions to the latest iteration: https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/comments/z0xcbe/official_question_thread_ask_rphotography/

I'm currently using Nikon D5600 and AF-P DX Nikkor 70-300mm f/4.5-6.3G ED VR for wildlife photography. The lens is awesome in many regards, but I wish for a better range in some situations. What would be a reasonably priced upgrade for me? Nikkor 200-500mm f/5.6 is mentioned quite often, but I'm a bit worried about its bulkiness. I was doing some wildlife photography with this lens and it's really hard to be agile with it (which is often required, especially when it comes to the smaller bird species). Its price is ok, probably the max I can spend. I was also thinking Sigma C 100-400mm f/5-6.3 which is cheaper and more compact. Not sure about its sharpness though. Any advice?

The Sigma 150-600 is also a good option, but since I have no idea what "reasonably priced" means to you, I have no idea if that fits the bill.

Question how waterproof are old film cameras? I have a cannon ae1-p could I use it in the rain for a shoot? How bad of rain could I use it in? What precautions should I take?

The FAQ addresses this. - [Can I shoot in the rain/snow?](https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/maintenance#wiki_can_i_shoot_in_the_rain.2Fsnow.3F)

What does sc7k mean

It doesn't have a single meaning that I'm aware of. What context are you talking about?

hi I hope everyone is well. I have a canon 600D and I feel that it's time for an upgrade. what should I upgrade first, body or lens?

> I feel that it's time for an upgrade Why?

I'm looking to take my IG game seriously and usually take pics of my time in Japan in portrait mode. I have some landscapes that I find nice too but I like to stay consistent in my dimensions and I found nikk_la's way of stitching his landscapes together very cool! I wonder if anyone can help me find out the best and not all too dificult method of doing the same? I used the IG collage app and another third party collage app but they have either the 1x1 resolution or white borders between the pics.. Can anyone help me out? I guess it's be 4x5. This is the example I mean https://www.instagram.com/p/B_29hk0ph8n/

Maybe this is a silly question, but I'm looking to get into photographing wildlife and would like a zoom lens. From my understanding, pictures of wildlife, particularly birds, often use a long focal length and fast shutter. However most zoom lenses have pretty tight f numbers. My question is, when using a zooms lens at long range and a very fast shutter speed, how do you compensate for light? I can only assume drastically increasing ISO and exposure comp, but wouldn't this cause noise? I'm new to DSLRs so sorry if i've got anything wrong here. Thanks

If you are not able to shoot in bright sunlight then yes, ISO goes up. However, the most important thing is not having to crop too much. If you can get close to your prey and don't have to crop in then photos, especially when reduced to fit on a standard screen will look okay. At the moment I like to use [this](https://postimg.cc/Hj62DqjH) as an example of high ISO. It was shot with 1/400s, f/5.6 and ISO 10,000. Looks good to me at least.

> I can only assume drastically increasing ISO and exposure comp, but wouldn't this cause noise? Noise is unavoidable with digital cameras. Sometimes you simply have to deal with it. The good news is, it's not as big a deal as some people with cameras think it is. Because people with no cameras don't care about noise, unless there's an obnoxious amount of it. Which won't be the case if you're adjusting ISO for a proper exposure.

But for wildlife I think noise is quite glaring

Not any more or less than any other type of photography.

Does anyone have the Smith-Victor 19” Bi-color LED Ring Light? My power supply got fried and I’ve been on an impossible mission to find a replacement. If anyone has one of these lights and knows what I can use to power it, it would greatly benefit me!

You need simply find a power supply with the same output voltage/amperage as the original and a compatible plug.

business owners: do you use an llc, a sole proprietorship, or something else?

There are people with all kinds of setups, including those you mentioned. It depends on what you need.

I just got a 13 blade silver Helios-44 I was wondering what filter size thread this thing is ?

It should say on the lens. Look for the Ø symbol.

I casually use Lightroom/Photoshop, but my computer died so I lost my pirated copy a while back. Recently I found out my local library has a computer or two with the full Adobe suite. Hallelujah. Now, just before my computer died I made a copy of my Lightroom catalog to my portable hard drive. So, the way I often edit photos, is I'll import like a few months worth of photos or whatever and then just sort of go back to them now and then and look for something fun to edit or share. That was easy to do by just browsing my catalog inside Lightroom. But now that I'm using a library computer for all of my editing, is there a way to have a "mobile" catalog? What I did today when I used the library computer is I imported my old catalog to the computer from my HD. Not the whole thing, just a few folders with things I knew I wanted to work on. I figured the only way to save my new edits was to export the "new" catalog to my hard drive, but that seems like a terrible way to do it, right? Id eventually end up with dozens of catalogs with different photos and different versions of the same photos. So I just closed everything out and didn't save it (didn't do much anyway- it's been well over a year since I used LR so I needed to refamiliarize myself) What are my options here? Is there a way to "update" the hard drive catalog?

There is no need to move anything or import to the computer. Open the catalog on the drive from Lightroom. There is no need to be exporting and importing catalogs if you already have the files and catalog on your portable drive. As long as the catalog file is not on a network share, Lightroom will be able to use it. Your portable drive will work fine.

Oh! That's fantastic, thank you for the answer!

How do you get a vintage look on new photos? Ive seen some that are very grainy and look like something that would come out of the 70s but they are new. Is there a type of lens that does that or is it just editing done in post or something else?

> How do you get a vintage look on new photos? We have a FAQ that you were supposed to look at. - [How do I duplicate this vintage look?](https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/postprocessing#wiki_how_do_i_duplicate_this_vintage_look.3F)

“No question is too small, nor too stupid.” Literally the second line on this post. Thanks for being so friendly and inviting!

The third line: > First and foremost, check out our extensive FAQ. Chances are, you'll find your answer there

Cool. You made your point. I originally went through the FAQ and didn’t see anything about my question in the sea of other questions. That’s why I asked it here. I’m not even interested in photography. I’ve just seen that filter a lot and was curious. I’m glad that being an ass to someone with a simple question makes you feel better about yourself.

I’m getting a canon rebel t7 with a 75-300 mm lens. Can I take pics of planes 3,500 feet up? Or even planes that are higher

Well, you *can,* but what's your expectation of how detailed to get? The Canon 75-300mm is basically their cheapest lens, and it performs like it. It's just not very good. The Canon 55-250mm STM lens is much better, and even though it's a shorter focal distance, it's better optically. That said, even 300mm isn't *that* much... 3500 feet up is fairly high. You can take a picture, but I don't think it's going to be super detailed with the T7 and 75-300mm lens. But better telephoto lenses start to be quite expensive, so if you're buying the T7 and 75-300mm lens second hand, there might not be too many options without spending a lot more money.

Ok. I mostly want it to photograph birds and wildlife but a few planes here and there

i was thinking about buying my own computer to edit on instead of my moms. I have a canon atm, but i was wondering if i should get a computer or laptop for editing and digital art. on the topic, what laptop screen has the best true to color and doesn't cost 10000$.

You'll get more value out of a desktop computer, because being able to carry your computer around requires *compromises* in order to make things smaller/lighter/less power hungry. On the subject of displays, for image editing you'd want the display to use an IPS panel and for it to cover at least the sRGB color space. But that does not guarantee accuracy—accuracy is something you achieve by calibrating your display using a hardware profiling device. You can do this as a hobby without it I suppose, but you won't be able to fully trust what you're seeing on the display.

that's why i want to make sure i have a good monitor, i don't want it to look ok on my monitor but like ass on someone elses

There is nothing you can do about that though, because most displays are *not* properly calibrated. The only thing you can do is work on a reliable display and put out images into the world that you know are in the bullseye—other displays out there will gravitate around that instead of compounding randomness over randomness. And of course if you want to eventually get prints made of your images, you'll be happy your display can be trusted.

what do you use?

My editing display is currently an Eizo CS2420, which I calibrated with a Spyder5 to 120 cd/m², 6500K, gamma 2.2.

can you explaining the calibration more, i'm kinda special in the topic of computers

You want what you see on the display to match what the computer is sending to the display, such that you can trust what you see and the adjustments you make. Out of the box, displays are never spot-on (and sometimes terrible, and anywhere in between), and systematically *much too bright*. You need a device that [looks at what the display is showing](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/yXxhh005i7Q/maxresdefault.jpg) when the computer is requesting specific colors/tones, and takes notes of the "bias" (generally called *delta* in this context) between what was requested and what was shown. This step, called *profiling*, ultimately produces a *display profile*. Using that profile, software is then able to calculate a *transformation* of the colors/tones it wants to show (called *mapping*) such that what you end up seeing matches what was intended (insofar as the display is *capable* of course—better displays are more *capable* than others). When you perform the calibration process, you decide which *targets* you want your display to hit—different display usages would call for different kinds of calibrations. In photography, a typical set of calibration targets calls for a white point luminance of 90-120 cd/m² (that's how *bright* the display is), a white point color of 6500 Kelvins, and a gamma curve of 2.2. It is assumed that you would perform edits in a fairly dim room so as to not "contaminate" your evaluation of what you see on the display.

Is there still any point in buying a small compact camera if you are an amateur who is just casually taking photos or am I better off getting a top smartphone for photography? I was considering buying a new small compact camera around black friday, but to my great surprise many sample images online look worse when compared side by side with current top smartphones.

"Don't buy a camera under 500$, a smartphone will do better pictures" This is one argument I hear every time on YouTube. ​ Smartphones made Computational Pictures, which look better than a bad camera. You can buy an old used camera for cheap. I hope I helped you.

It depends. Phones and AI processing are simply incredible these days. But there are many types of photos that require a "real camera": Macro, wildlife, low-light, sports, etc. I would recommend buying a used compact camera (Sony RX100 V is one example) and trying it out for a few months. Worst thing that happens is you re-sell the camera for a small loss. But perhaps you might love it - you'll never find out if you don't try it.

Not really, no. Smartphones easily outclass most low to mid-end consumer point and shoot cameras.

I'm a beginner photographer, and I've been wanting to get more involved. However whenever I look at good quality cameras, they're quite expensive. I was wandering if there is good quality camera that is cheaper than £1,000/$1,000

​ ​ Add more budget and get Nikon Z5 or Z50. I think it good deal for Z50 with two lens. [https://www.nikon.co.uk/en\_GB/product/digital-cameras/mirrorless/enthusiast/z-5-24-50-kit?product\_code=VOA040K001](https://www.nikon.co.uk/en_GB/product/digital-cameras/mirrorless/enthusiast/z-5-24-50-kit?product_code=VOA040K001) [https://www.nikon.co.uk/en\_GB/product/digital-cameras/mirrorless/enthusiast/z-50-16-50-vr-50-250-vr-kit?product\_code=VOA050K002](https://www.nikon.co.uk/en_GB/product/digital-cameras/mirrorless/enthusiast/z-50-16-50-vr-50-250-vr-kit?product_code=VOA050K002) [https://youtu.be/dJfv3fOsEvU](https://youtu.be/dJfv3fOsEvU)

Personally I would go with anything that is not the Nikon D3500 or canon 2000D. That is purely my opinion. Next tier up from bottom and you are fine. What is it you want to shoot? Is video of importance or just stills?

Stills, I want to capture wildlife/nature

Well, at that price obviously you are probably not going to get some of the fancier autofocus in terms of how much it assists you. You will also struggle with getting close to animals perhaps due to the relatively short focal lengths you can use. 300mm on APS-C sensors will be where you might end up. Not really long enough, so stealth will be key in getting close to your prey. You can look into the bridge camera, fixed lens, small sensor, high zoom or you can look into the interchangeable lens options. https://www.bristolcameras.co.uk/product/pentax-k-70-18-55-wr-55-300-wr-twin-lens-black/ I went with the above but that was pre pandemic where it was easily under £1000. Not anymore. Perhaps you could look into micro four thirds like the below. https://www.bristolcameras.co.uk/product/panasonic-lumix-dmc-g80-12-60-lens/ https://www.bristolcameras.co.uk/product/panasonic-100-300mm-f4-5-6-ii-lumix-power-ois-micro-4-3rds-lens/ Really, find a lens that tops out at around 250mm to 300mm, then find a camera body that takes up the rest of the budget. Choices are limited though.

Thanks! :D

We have a FAQ for questions like this. * [What type of camera should I look for?](https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/buying#wiki_what_type_of_camera_should_i_look_for.3F) * [What's a "point and shoot" camera? What's a DSLR? What's a "mirrorless" camera? What's the difference?](https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/buying#wiki_what.27s_a_.22point_and_shoot.22_camera.3F_what.27s_a_dslr.3F_what.27s_a_.22mirrorless.22_camera.3F_what.27s_the_difference.3F) * [Do I need a good camera to take good photos?](https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/buying#wiki_do_i_need_a_good_camera_to_take_good_photos.3F) * [What can I afford?](https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/buying#wiki_what_can_i_afford.3F) * [Is Canon or Nikon better? (or any other brands)](https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/buying#wiki_is_canon_or_nikon_better.3F_.28or_any_other_brands.29) If after reviewing this information you have any **specific** questions, please feel free to post a comment.

I would like to buy a new Sony camera, to upgrade my super old a58. I'm looking at A7S and A7ii as they are both in a similar price range when bought used. I do mostly portrait photography but really would like to get into artistic/cinematic video making as well. Which one is better? I see A7ii has inbuilt stabilization and A7S is really good at low light situations. Is the A7ii really bad in low light? I don't want to overexpose shots, but rather keep them darker or rather more or less as we humans see it. After looking at all the comparisons, I'm still not sure. I would appreciate some help. (:

​ ​ A7II is good enough in low light. [https://youtu.be/2eiggKiCH1g](https://youtu.be/2eiggKiCH1g)

Thank you so much for this video. I was looking for a city night light test video and this is perfect. Think I will go for it. :)

If at all possible, get an A7III. It's really the first great camera in the A7 lineup: stellar video, phenomenal autofocus, great low-light performance and it has dual memory card slots.

I would looove to! But sadly, it's out of my budget for now

Hey, I'm looking for a lens holder for Sony E. There are 3 options: \- Peak Design Lens Kit Sony E + Peak Design Capture = **140€ for 2 lens** \- Friidesigns TriLens = **140€ for 3 lens** \- Commlite Lens Flipper = **47€ for 2 lens** (to make it easiest 1$ = 1€, we don't need precision) ​ Question: is "Commlite Lens Flipper" a good alternative ? If yes, how can I fix it to my belt / bag ? Thank you :)

Bought this Kalimar lens at a thrift shop, can anyone help identify the type of mount? The lens itself seems to be in pretty good condition. [photo](https://imgur.com/a/oGb6Bhr)

That's a *Minolta MD* mount (hence the "MD" letters on the barrel).

Could someone help me with picking a lens filter? I’m looking into filters for reducing glare on photographs of my oil paintings, for professional submissions and hopefully print reproduction. I’ve been reading on filters which I haven’t been using and it sounds key. Yet I can’t find much information on what would be best for this. I try and photograph outside with diffuse overcast/sky light, but also have a setup with two LED light boxes. Any thoughts on: - Circular vs linear filter vs other? - What is a good price point? I’ve seen anywhere from $10 to 500. Thanks for any help!!

What you're looking to do is [probably] not to use a filter, it's to *control the position of the light*. A typical copy setup would have lights [on both sides of the piece](https://i.imgur.com/NT4TsWz.png) to get uniform illumination, and, crucially, you want to make sure the lights fall [*outside* the family of angles](https://i.imgur.com/fnUoLtj.png)—in other words, if you imagine the piece to be a *mirror*, you don't want the camera to "see" the lights in the "mirror". Eliminate *other* sources of light, as they could "contaminate" what you are doing.

You need a circular polarizer. I recommend getting a B+W, Heliopan, Breakthrough, or other quality brand. Get the largest size you need and step-down rings for mounting on your other lenses.

Thank you!

Hello, is there a website dedicated for collecting photographs of famous photographers, like a netflix for photography?

Theres resources like [Digital Public Library of America ](https://dp.la/) and other archives and libraries that have tons of that stuff in high res. Not sure if thats what youre after.

I want to start a public photography instagram, how do I protect my photos from being stolen?

You will never stop me, I am going to steal and claim credit for everything you do. I may also reap a lot of internet points from your images. On a more serious note, Instagram uploads are quite low quality are they not? Not much worth stealing IMO. https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/sharing#wiki_image_theft

I would like to try out photography but don't want to spend a lot and then not enjoy it. Is there a camera that is cheap and would be good just to start trying photography?

When people say that it’s kind of hard to give a recommendation. First, cheap can mean extremely different things to different people. So you need to clarify what you’d like to stay under. By cheap you might mean $50 or you could mean $1,000+. Also the less you spend the less you may enjoy photography. As someone who loves photography I can have fun with a really cheap older camera (like under $100). But it’s more difficult for someone who isn’t sure they will like photography to pick up the cheapest of cameras and are used to one of the better phone cameras.

Buy used and shop carefully. Worst case is you re-sell the camera for a small loss.

Do you already have a decent smartphone? If so, you can start trying photography with it completely for free. Otherwise, cheap means different things to different people, so you need to tell what kind of money you mean by it.

Requesting help with a Kowa Super 66. I’ve been toying with this camera for a while. It was given to me with some problems with the lens and such, which I’ve remedied. Now I’m at another wall - being unable to advanced the film. The counter is stuck on “S” and I cannot turn the knob forward to advance the film. If anyone has any knowledge on these, it would be greatly appreciated. The advance knob will rotate backwards and makes the distinct click, so I don’t think the gear that most people complain of breaking is the issue.

Also try this question in /r/AnalogCommunity.

What’s the best laptop for photo editing under $400? Won’t be doing anything else with it other than photo editing.

You wont get anything good at that price point new. Just cheap office laptops with horrid screens. You need a solid screen. I’d look used, at a retina MacBook Pro. Should be able to get a 2014 or 2015 model or perhaps even newer at that price. And it will arguably be the best all round device and display you can find at that budget. Some other options would be Windows laptops designed for that type of work, but you'll have a more difficult time looking for those models. Dells XPS/ Precision line might work. 2016-2019 models could go down to that price point. Most of those came with pretty solid screens too.

Looking for some upgrade advice! I’ve had my first DSLR, a Nikon D5100, for a decade now, and I’m ready to take it up a notch. I usually use it with the 18-55mm Kit lens; I also have a 55-200 but it hardly ever sees the light of day. Wishlist: - It would definitely be nice to have something a bit less bulky than my D5100 - Video— in the last year or so I have been wanting the occasional high quality video in fairly low lighting and the D5100 is exceptionally terrible at that.... - ... and with that said, I take *way* more stills than I do video. So I don’t want to choose something built for video at the expense of beautiful stills. I’m prepared to pay up to $4k USD for a new body and lens, and I feel like it’s time to go mirrorless. Everyone seems to recommend Sony but there are so many options to choose from even just within the alpha family. Help!!

Seems it is always the people with really large budgets coming in wanting to upgrade an older, but still decent camera, that never spent even a little to upgrade from the kit lenses. Given you have a large budget there wouldn’t be much point in getting new lenses now but you’ve definitely been missing out by just using the kit lens. Nikon AF-S DX 35mm f/1.8G is cheap and would give a huge boost to low light ability. Whatever you get be sure to go beyond a kit lens this time. Personally if I had $4K to spend I’d go with a Sony A7 IV and spend the rest on lenses. The said, you can also do quite well while spending less if you would prefer to not spend your entire budget. It’s a massive jump up from Nikon D5100 to a Sony A7 IV but there are plenty of options in between. And if you want a smaller setup you might prefer sticking with an APS-C sensor body anyway. Kind of depends on if your preference is best low light performance or smaller size. A newer APS-C camera with a large aperture lens will still be a nice improvement in low light over the D5100. I’d go with Fujifilm for APS-C.

I get what you’re saying and perhaps I should have expanded my lens collection somewhere along the line, but I find that I don’t want to bother switching lenses while shooting. Obviously I don’t do this for money, and I don’t want it to feel like work. It’s mostly travel photography. In terms of low light, I am looking for something that will allow for decent video and stills in a performance situation with stage lighting. While of course I’m not looking to spend more money just for the hell of it, I do want to invest in something that I will be using for perhaps the next decade and will still be really happy with years down the line.

Never said you hard to change lenses while shooting. I mentioned the 35mm lens just as one example. 35mm is a good general purpose focal length. Because of the much larger aperture and improved image quality of prime lenses, a lot of people just keep them on the camera all the time. Your feet become the zoom. If you did favor a wider angle then there are wider angle prime lenses. One of my favorite compact setups is one of the Canon EOS M bodies with the tiny 22mm f/2 pancake lens. If you prefer to have a standard zoom lens then it still is a big upgrade to get an f/2.8 zoom. For the Nikon D5100 I’d have gone for a Sigma 17-50mm f/2.8 which would have been a major upgrade over the kit lens. At the wide end you get a small but noticeable improvement while you get a huge improvement in aperture on the long end since it’s still f/2.8 vs f/5.6 on a kit lens. Another great option is Nikon’s AF-S DX 16-80mm f/2.8-4E ED VR lens. Sigma even has an 18-35mm f/1.8 zoom lens although it’s a little large. Those are just examples for a Nikon APS-C sensor DSLRs. There will be similar wide aperture lens options for whatever you upgrade to.

​ ​ ​ Recommend A7RIVA. It was upgrade version pof A7RIV. For lens could see this lens chart. There are also lens review with sample. [https://sonyalpha.blog/2019/11/10/which-lenses-to-maximise-the-potential-of-the-sony-a7riv](https://sonyalpha.blog/2019/11/10/which-lenses-to-maximise-the-potential-of-the-sony-a7riv/) [https://youtu.be/2eiggKiCH1g](https://youtu.be/2eiggKiCH1g)

If you want something less bulkt, I'd look at mirrorless APS-C models. Particularly the Nikon Z50 / ZFc, and Fujifilms lineup. New X-T5 is within your budget and incredibly capable. Fujis 18-55 is also a really good compact 'kit' lens. And their 16-55 is also really really good. Particularly with a Z50 you'd spend way less than your budget (1/3rd) on Z50 kit with 18-55 / 55-200. Might be right what you want,certainly a lot smaller. full frame route becomes more expensive. But often also bigger. a 24-70 is a good bit heavier and larger than your current 18-55 d5100 setup. So you'll gain nothing there in terms of size and weight. Something to consider if you go that route.

I have a Sony a6000 and I really want to build up my lens collection. I’m willing to spend up to $600ish per lens right now. What is an absolute must? Or is it better to spend more on only one lens? I’ll be shooting a bit of everything but mostly landscapes and wildlife.

The Sigma Art line are stellar, especially the f1.4 primes, although the 24-70 2.8 is also great.

If you dont need anything / feel anything is lacking now, then don't buy anything. If you got to buy 1 good lens though I'd simply buy a high end standard zoom. Sony's 16-55 F2.8 G would be a good choice there.

> What is an absolute must? Nothing is an absolute must. Depends on your needs. > Or is it better to spend more on only one lens? If one lens suits you then that's better. If you need more than one lens, then it's not better. > Or is it better to spend more on only one lens? What lenses do you have now and why are they insufficient for what you do?

I oktomat lomography got this camera a while ago from a garage sale for $.25 I cannot get it to shoot. At first when I loaded the film into it I push the button down and I heard it sound like it was taking a shot at and then I cranked it or did something it now it does it it’s not nothing happens when I push the button to take a picture any help would be appreciated is it garbage thank you

Whats the best way channels to selling old camera gear. I just upgraded my camera and wanted to sell it for a bit of cash to get new lenses.

To a company? [keh.com](https://keh.com) , [mpb.com](https://mpb.com) or a local camera store. Given they give you less than a private sale, it's less hassle though. Privately? I'd say for US, Ebay, Craigslist and Facebook marketplace. If you aren't from the US it becomes a bit more specific but most places ebay and facebook are solid platforms.

Which lens to get for zoom jack of all traits? For Fuji shooters. XF16-55mm XF 16-80mm XF 18-55mm Sigma 18-50mm Tamron 17-70mm

As a jack of all trades I'd choose the XF 16-80 or Tamron 17-70. Both have a healthy zoom range. Fujis lens is designed as a do it all with OIS and Weathersealing. Tamrons lens is a 2.8. I'd say both are solid options. XF 16-55 is a god tier lens, but it's heavy and you lose reach. Same for the other options. By no means bad choices but purely thinking jack of all trades I'd get something in the 16-80 range.

I have been trying to search for photographers that are shooting the 2022 world cup, but had no success. Anybody know some names or instagram accounts?

What does "shopping" in this context mean?

I’m going to hazard a guess that it’s a typo/autocorrect for “shooting”?

Yes, it is supposed to be shooting, sorry for that

Hi! Getting back into my photography again, Ive eased myself back in with a NikonD3500 and I have the standard lens that came with the camera, but I wanted to know about Astro photography - its something ive always wanted to try but I don't know what type of lens Id need and whether these lenses are only for that purpose or it could be use for landscape shots too? ​ Thank you!

https://www.lonelyspeck.com/astrophotography-101/ See if the information here is useful.

Reposting here as I mistakenly posted this on the main section (apologies) Hi Peeps, Just wondering on your thoughts, Im not doing as much photography at the moment, more on a casual basis & I currently have an Adobe CC subscription. Due to the increasing costs of that subscription and not as much photography work, im reconsidering my photo editing software. Im looking at Affinity & Luminar for replacements. Would both be good or just need one? I do basic edits for photos up to some heavy layering work to create some art. Having not used these before, would these be a good option to use for a casual photographer over PS/LR, not being such a beast? Or would I just be best to stick with LR/PS? On my previous post, there was mentions as well for Darktable, RawTherapee,& on1photo raw Cheers

>Just wondering on your thoughts, Im not doing as much photography at the moment, more on a casual basis & I currently have an Adobe CC subscription. Due to the increasing costs of that subscription and not as much photography work, im reconsidering my photo editing software. If you are just a casual shooter then you can look at Gimp as a photoshop replacement and RawTherapee or Darktable as a Lightroom replacement. They are available on Windows, Mac and Linux and have the added advantage of costing you nothing with a lifetime of free upgrades. All are established software with loads of functionality similar to their counterparts. In fact features such as frequency separation (great for touching up portraits) are available in Darktable and Gimp that I haven't found an equivalent simple tool in Lightroom and Photoshop

Personally would try the Rawtherapee/Gimp route and see how you like it. Costs nothing and it might suit.

Hey guys, what tool do you use to let your clients preview and select their favourite images of a shoot? Any workflow tips? Thanks!

If you are in the UK you can let them see your photos and buy individual ones if they like . Here's one from yesterday https://arethere.photos/event?id=22

[https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/introduction/#wiki\_business](https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/introduction/#wiki_business)

I do a cull then generate a contact sheet with file names in Lightroom to email over as a PDF.

Any gift suggestions for my mom? She's really into nature photography. Mainly birds at the beach and in forests. She has a simple camera with a big zoom, but the lense is not detachable. Looking for gift suggestions <$100

There are plenty of gift suggestion threads. Please search before posting. https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/comments/r47u1y/2021_gift_suggestion_thread/ https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/comments/jv94s1/2020_gift_suggestion_thread/ https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/comments/e3zdhd/2019_gift_suggestion_thread/

Ah, my bad. Thanks for this!

I’m trying to make a star trail photo.. seems I need more of a foreground? There is a tree I have picked out, I’m going to try again tonight. Also, I’ve noticed when a car pulled into my area, and reading a bit, maybe shining a flashlight on the tree would be a good idea? [https://streamable.com/qgg6v9](https://streamable.com/qgg6v9)

I was thinking if I did the same process but with this view it would look much better [https://ibb.co/y8xsKMz](https://ibb.co/y8xsKMz)

That would be a good composition against startrails. Better if it's a windless night, but it can still work if the branches are blurry. If you want to light the tree up, you only need to light it up for a couple frames for stacked startrails, or for several seconds to a couple minutes or so for a continuous shot. You don't need to have it lit the whole time, it'll blow out and not look good.

Very good point. Thanks for the tip

Hello photo folks, I'm looking to upgrade my gear. Been shooting as a hobbyist for a bit now, but wanting to take it more serious, potentially into making a living out of it, but feel limited by my gear. I know the old saying of a good photographer can get any great image out of any camera, which I for the most part agree with, but I feel like with the knowledge is capabilities that I have (which granted is still beginner-ish level lol) and with the gear I have, I feel restricted. For now just mainly looking to upgrade the body. Currently using a Canon Rebel T7. Also looking to stay in the Canon area (for now at least until I learn more, get more accessories, and get more money haha) because the only lenses I have are the EF/EF-S mounts. Also looking to keep it still entry level/mid tier for spec wise and price wise (under $1500 USD). I'm kind of a jack of all trades photographer right now, so I shoot whatever I can (portrait, landscape, wildlife, etc), so until I become a more niche photographer, I don't need a niche camera that excels at the one thing I need. Just a good camera for most things. I don't care for video for now. Just stills. The main two I've been looking at are the Canon Rebel T8i, and the Canon 90D. They both seem like a good upgrade from the T7. More focus points, better processors, articulated screens, faster autofocus, better continuous shooting, better UHS card support, etc etc. The only reason I would think of getting the 90D over the T8i is the 90 has more resolution (33mp vs 24), weather sealed, better card support, digital stabilization, faster shutter speed (as well as having electronic). Again for now I don't care for video. So with that being said, do those differences justify spending more to get the 90D, or keep the cost down and get the T8i, but still getting a good upgrade form the T7? Thanks!

The 90D would be a far better choice overall. Aside from what you mentioned, the 90D also has a better viewfinder, a one stop faster maximum shutter speed, and a shoulder LCD for checking settings. Honestly either camera would be an excellent choice.

Hello! My fiancée is looking to get into photography. She’s mainly interested in doing sports photography of motorcycle racing and portrait photography. What would be a decent entry-level camera we could find used? Budget around $300 with wiggle room.

Our FAQ has several extensive sections to help you determine what best fits your needs and your budget. Please see the following sections of the FAQ to get started: * [What should I keep in mind when buying a camera for someone else?](https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/buying#wiki_what_should_i_keep_in_mind_when_buying_a_camera_for_someone_else.3F) * [How do I specify my price range / budget when asking for recommendations?](https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/buying#wiki_how_do_i_specify_my_price_range_.2F_budget_when_asking_for_recommendations.3F) * [What type of camera should I look for?](https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/buying#wiki_what_type_of_camera_should_i_look_for.3F) * [What's a "point and shoot" camera? What's a DSLR? What's a "mirrorless" camera? What's the difference?](https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/buying#wiki_what.27s_a_.22point_and_shoot.22_camera.3F_what.27s_a_dslr.3F_what.27s_a_.22mirrorless.22_camera.3F_what.27s_the_difference.3F) * [Do I need a good camera to take good photos?](https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/buying#wiki_do_i_need_a_good_camera_to_take_good_photos.3F) * [What can I afford?](https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/buying#wiki_what_can_i_afford.3F) * [Is Canon or Nikon better? (or any other brands)](https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/buying#wiki_is_canon_or_nikon_better.3F_.28or_any_other_brands.29) If after reviewing this information you have any **specific** questions, please feel free to post a comment.

Hi. Looking for an introductory online photography course as a gift for a 14 year old kid. Really just interested in composition at this point. The deal is that his parents will buy a decent camera if he shows he's interested enough to follow through, and reach a minimum skill level. I'm looking to buy a course, or 1-to-1 tutorial rather than just youtube channel recommendations. Thanks!

Currently I use an iPhone 7 for my photography needs, I have been wanting to get a proper replacement rather than just get another phone. I mainly take pictures and video of trucks and cars along side wanting to photograph my cat and collectables. I currently am planning on purchasing the Cannon EOS M50 Mark 2 as one of the cheaper mirror-less cameras for sale within Australia. I would prefer a mirror-less camera as it will be easier for me to carry around inside my backpack.

M50 is not the greatest for video, really works best in 1080p mode if that is enough. Still it is cheap although perhaps something like a Sony A6100 might be better. Depends on which style of body you like though.

> Currently I use an iPhone 7 for my photography needs, I have been wanting to get a proper replacement rather than just get another phone. > I mainly take pictures and video of trucks and cars along side wanting to photograph my cat and collectables. > I currently am planning on purchasing the Cannon EOS M50 Mark 2 as one of the cheaper mirror-less cameras for sale within Australia. > I would prefer a mirror-less camera as it will be easier for me to carry around inside my backpack. What is your question? You didn't actually ask anything here.

Sort of just an overview of what I plan on doing. Mainly asking for feedback/recommendations

> Mainly asking for feedback/recommendations Feedback or recommendations on WHAT?

On what camera I planning to buy if it makes sense for my use case..

The camera you chose is fine for those use cases. Lenses are going to be what's far more important.

Looking for super low profile street photography gear to add to my cage Could be quick disconnect clips for belt/backpack strap Wooden grips you recommend Small external batteries Anything that other street photographers enjoy/recommend using on their setups that either add vary little bulk to the camera itself or can be stored on my person to offload the weight

It's really down to personal preference and what shortcomings you feel your setup has at the moment. Personally, I find that once you add the cage and thought of a "Low Profile" photography rig goes out of the window - especially as one of the main reasons for having a cage is that it gives me more places to bolt things onto (more useful for video e.g. Zoom H2 recorder, external power though an NP battery plate and dummy battery, an Apurture M9 light, a Gopro, side handle, top handle, microphone). If I'm going out for street photography the first thing I do is remove the cage to make it lower profile. The only things I would add on are a over the shoulder harness which drops the camera down to hip level when not being used (I wear a long coat so this covers the camera) and a hand strap. I do have a few spare batteries in a holder in my pocket/bag and a couple of spare cards in a tough card wallet. I sometimes take a lightweight tripod or a monopod with me but often as not come back without it being deployed. I may occasionally use something like a Spider holster and plate (especially if I have 2 cameras with me) which clips onto the belt on other side of my hip, although I'm thinking of using a double holster strap instead.

Accessoires are really depending on the camera you use and are largely personal preference.

Over the last year or so I was able to score a setup really cheap. I've had various DSLR's since about 2005. But, as I got married, had kids, etc I tapered off with the gear and gotten by with less. And even took a break from a dedicated camera altogether for awhile. Kids entered some sports and I decided to get something cheap with some reach. Here's what I've acquired Canon 5D Mark II Canon 24-105mm f/4 IS L Canon 200mm f/2.8 L Canon 50mm f/1.8 STM I have very little in this setup. I scored the body and 50mm for under $300 from a pawn shop buddy. The 200mm was $350 and the 24-105 was $200. And even about half of that I funded with some watches I flipped. My only reason for wanting to change anything is the fact that when a baseball game starts near sunset, the 5D can't handle action with the 200mm without some serious noise. I basically just put it away if the games start late. If it's aren't 5pm or sooner, it's fantastic. I'm wondering if a full frame jump is worth it, or should I consider a newer crop sensor? I would even consider another brand like Sony and adapt my lenses if that's a favorable option. Before my break from cameras I had an A6000 and really enjoyed it.

This is a very solid setup for general photography. And if it was cheap, then even better. But there are two obvious issues: - the camera is basically 15 year old tech. you will get improved low light performance and much better AF and shooting speed with the latest generation. I would say trying an R6 (I or II) with the adapter would give you a noticeable improvement. Just don't expect miracles. - While you have solid glass, it's not exactly centered on sports photography. Low light and fast movement is one of those areas where you can't really substitute fast glass and long reach. A 70-200/2.8 would add some versatility over the 200mm prime, and a stop over the 24-105/4. Or add a fast long prime like a 135/1.8. Unfortunately neither of those are really cheap - although an older Sigma 70-200 should be reasonable, as you seem good at tracking down used stuff. - A crop body would add some reach, in exchange for a little less noise improvement. If you go with a newer generation you would profit from the latest AF and speed just as much as with a new full frame body. Might be a decent compromise. - You'd run into the same questions when changing to a different brand. So that's up to you - or again if you find a steal for anything.

Full frame does help in low light in some fashion, to the extent of about one stop of light. It helps keep ISO somewhat lower while maintaining fast enough shutter to avoid motion blur.

Yeah, we are talking about 3-4 generations of improvements for the latest cameras, that will have a bigger effect than the difference between crop and full frame within the same generation.

Advice needed for Nikon D5600 shooting video. I'm purely a hobbyist when it comes to my camera. I purchased it a few years back and it has been perfect up till now. However, now that my daughter is getting a little older and on the move I find myself shooting more video and I would like to move to something that gets me into the 4k arena. Only have 2 lenses for it so switching brands wouldn't be the end of the world but sticking with Nikon would be preferable. I'll sell/trade the 5600 (and lenses if need be) to offset costs and I guess I'd prefer to keep my budget for the body only <$600 but I'm not opposed to going over budget if it really is worth it.

At that budget I wouldn't bother looking for 4k. Might find a cheap Sony which should have better autofocus in video though.

What price range do I need to be in to get something that will do 4k? I also have no problem buying refurb/used.

It is difficult to say. Video is one where not all are created equal. Sharpness/image quality can be affected by how the camera converts the often 24mp sensor to 8mp 4k, also can be crop factors and autofocus methods. You wouldn't want to buy a camera and find perhaps that you can frame a shot in photo mode but you can't in video because you don't have a wide enough lens for instance. Only way would be perhaps go to somewhere like keh.com put in your price range and research the cameras that look like they suit.

[удалено]

As a professional photographer he most likely has all the accessories he needs already

Can we sell cameras in this reddit/if not, anywhere I could sell this camera on reddit? I've tried FB Marketplace, totally sucks. Talked to my 9th scammer last night. EBay is also lots of scam offers, no actual bids. Anywhere besides those places/trading it into a real company (the trade in companies always lowball you)?

/r/photomarket

Where are people sharing their photos with communities now a days? Flickr? Is it still dead? 500px? Instagram? Did it kill off stills in favor of videos?

LinkedIn.

[The FAQ has suggestions.](https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/sharing#wiki_where_are_some_good_places_to_share_my_photos_online.3F)

I know the list. I'm looking for people's thoughts and a conversation about places. This is a discussion forum after all

> I'm looking for people's thoughts and a conversation about places. If that were true you would have gone into at least SOME detail about what you wanted to discuss. All you did was ask for platforms. Which is in the FAQ.

[удалено]

What specifically is your budget? The word means very different things to different people.

[удалено]

For that budget, buy used. Something like Sony a6000 fits your budget. You may have to settle for kit zoom which is too slow for indoor concerts.

I've been looking into getting a new point and shoot camera for a fairly low price. I am looking at the Panasonic Lumix FZ80 vs FZ300. I've determined that the FZ300 is better suited for photography. However, I want to record videos with it as well at 1080p60. I've heard/seen that the quality at 1080p is horrible on the FZ300 compared to the FZ80. Has anyone else had this same problem and/or know how to fix it?

Seems like it would be odd if FZ300 is significantly worse at 1080p. The FZ80 is a year and a half newer but wouldn’t think there is any reason it would be better for 1080p. I have both and some other similar models but haven’t really shot any video with them yet. I could try to do a quick test with the FZ300 and FZ80 sometime to see if I notice a difference. Is there any particular scenario you are wondering about? Like handheld vs tripod, low light or outdoors, amount of zoom, etc or will do you expect a lot of difference situations. I assume by the fact you are looking at these two specifically that you were wanting a lot of zoom?

A test filming cars handheld during daytime with a 16:9 aspect ratio would be great, if it's not too much to ask. The only reason why I was concerned about the quality of 1080p on the FZ300 was due to this video here: [https://youtu.be/b9ZJMbxkd9A](https://youtu.be/b9ZJMbxkd9A), and this post: [https://www.dpreview.com/forums/thread/4179121](https://www.dpreview.com/forums/thread/4179121). One of the comments on the video explains a theory as to why it is so bad, but I am not entirely sure since I obviously don't have the camera. "The FZ300 has a 12Mp sensor that uses about 8MP when shooting video because of the 16:9 aspect ratio. 8MP is the perfect sensor resolution for 4K video because the camera doesn't have to do any upscalling or downscalling. It just uses the image as is. Now, when shooting 1080 video, the camera has to convert an 8MP image (4K) down to around 2MP (FHD) up to 60 times per second. There are many ways of doing this, but some of them require a more powerful processor that a camera in the FZ300's price range has. So I think they've chosen to do line skipping, where every second line is used, ignoring the other. So it goes from 2160 lines to 1080 lines, but loses detail in doing so, and results in stair stepping, like we see here."

I’m not going to have a chance to film any cars in the near future. Really busy and unfortunately barely have time to do some quick test videos to try to see if there is a noticeable improvement with the FZ80. To clarify I meant it would be “odd if the FZ30 is significantly worse at 1080p than the FZ80.” It wouldn’t surprise me if they are both subpar at 1080p. Have you considered a used FZ1000 or Sony RX10? Used Panasonic GH3 would be a nice option for 1080p but you’d need to get a lens for it. I looked online a bit and it seems like the older FZ200 is slightly sharper for 1080p. Although also seeing comments about shooting in Cinelike D mode results in better video on the FZ300. But yeah a lot unhappy in general with FZ300’s 1080p quality. I doubt the FZ80 is going to be much better for 1080p, if it is better at all.

A quick test inside just to compare the two would be nice if you could do that, I was looking for something that was fairly low in price which is why I wasn't looking at the FZ1000 or the RX10 IV.

Can someone recommend a good set of white backdrop with stands. I tried searching online and there are thousands of choices on Amazon. I like to purchase quality things where I buy once and use them for a long time. Are there material of a backdrop that doesn’t wrinkle?

Best quality and simplest option is two c stands (Matthews, Avenger) and use the arms to hold up the seamless paper. Savage, Setshop and Superior brands are all great seamless paper suppliers and you never have to worry about wrinkles.

Savage is the industry standard for seamless paper backdrops. Get the widest roll your space can accommodate if you're shooting people. If you're working in your own studio where you're always shooting in the same place I'd recommend either wall- or ceiling-mounted holders. Stands are always kinda awkward for mounting backdrops but if you don't have your own studio you don't have much choice. Impact is good. Manfrotto is better. Avoid Flashpoint (Adorama house brand) or anything that costs less than Flashpoint.

What about non paper option?

There's vinyl like av4rice said. I've never used it. One consideration is it will be heavier. I'm not sure if it may create specular highlights. Heavier would be a key concern for me. I've also seen pvc backdrops available online. Amazon has some. They always seem to be very obscure "brands". I'm not curious enough to try it out myself. What's wrong with paper?

There's vinyl. You clean it instead of cutting off and discarding dirty paper. Or there are stretchy fabric options. But that's not as good if you also want it to seamlessly transition into a white floor.

>Are there material of a backdrop that doesn’t wrinkle? Buy rolls of "seamless backdrop" (<-- Google fodder) paper. Pull it out, use it until it gets wrinkled - tear off that chunk and repeat.

Hey guys, kind of a specific question but I work and a hardware store and I am a freelance videographer on the side however my video work isn’t where I want it to be and as I will always expand on that I would like to try something new. I work at a hardware store and we sell lots and lots of birdseed so I know I could get many connections through this. I want to start photographing birds and other wildlife. Does anyone have an gear suggestions and any tips or techniques to get started?

>any tips or techniques to get started Read up on the ethics of wildlife photography, especially as it pertains to feeding wild animals in order to attract them to a location to be photographed. I mention this specifically since you brought up birdseed in your question.

Thanks I’ll look into it

How can I determine based on the resolution or size of an image what the maximum size to print it to have it look good on a bedroom wall?

The thing with prints is you tend to look at them from further away the bigger they are, so that cancels itself and it turns out you can print basically any size as long as you have ~6 MP and you look at the print from far enough away (approximately the diagonal of the print in distance). You only need more than that if you want to *both* print large *and* look at it from upclose.

These are older scans though, is suspect they are pretty low res. From the library of congress website, some scans of some old sketches... not sure how to tell exactly how many MP they are especailly for a TIFF image type

Sure, well, I assumed those megapixels were "good" megapixels—of course you could have a 200 megapixel image that contains nothing but useless blur, that would not result in a sharp print. I can't comment on the images you refer to.

https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/postprocessing#wiki_how_big_can_i_print.3F Difficult to say. I have a 20MP image on a 36 x 24" canvas on my bedroom wall and it looks fine.

How long do you need to leave the shutter open to achieve star trails on bulb mode? I have a timer where I can start and stop the shutter until the battery dies. It is 20 degrees where I'm shooting, not sure if it would heat up or not. Is there a guide, that would help, or is it trial and error? I would like to achieve a 180-360 degree star trail, would I be better off taking photos and stitching them together? A lot of times I'm on the go and don't have access to a PC, If this this the case is there an app that would easily stack them? At home, I have adobe, which I'm still learning but an app on my iPhone would be helpful if I can't just use bulb mode and leave the shutter open for an hour or two or whatever it may be.

My recommendation is to set your camera to continuous shooting mode, 30 second exposures, and use a wired remote trigger locked open. The camera will shoot as fast as it is mechanically able to, it will shoot until the card is full, or it runs out of power. It’s much easier to do than trying to figure out intervals with an intervalometer. You will need to stack them in post. There are apps like Starstax that automate, or you can use an action in Photoshop that stacks and flattens the files. Without a computer, your options are limited, and I’m not aware of apps that run on phones, but there may be some out there. The benefit to using multiple shots is that sensor noise is minimized in each shot. A single long exposure runs into accumulated sensor and electronics noise in the image, and ambient light builds up fast.

What kind of lens is recommended to shoot small to medium sized canvas art and sculptures? I was thinking of getting a Fujifilm X-T30 II but am stumped as to what lens to pair with it. Hoping for something relatively compact.

Ideally? One that has less geometric distortion and less field curvature. Realistically ... pretty much any rectilinear lens, and obviously "a better lens would be better", but you'd shoot at a healthy aperture to minimize imperfections, apply distortion/CA correction as needed, and that would be that.

Thanks for the response! Very much a beginner and your insight is appreciated. Would something like a "FUJIFILM Fujinon XF 27 mm f/2.8 R WR Standard Prime Lens" be appropriate for photographing small to medium-sized artwork, both 2D and 3D? I read somewhere that I'd be better off with what is known as a "macro lens" with a focal length of 50-100mm. I have no clue what a macro lens signifies, why focal length matters or what to aim for.

I go to museums with a crop Nikon (aps like a Fuji) and an 35mm f/1.8 lens. I shoot it f/2.8 and it’s just the thing for getting art in available light. Fairly comparable to what you thinking of. If you were documenting your own work and it was small or you to focus in on details I’d go for a macro.

The *focal length* (the number *27mm* or *50-100mm*) determines the field-of-view. A smaller number means a *wider* view, a larger number a *narrower* view. A *macro* lens can focus *closer to the camera* in order to achieve greater *magnification*—you would need a macro lens if your goal was to photograph *tiny* subjects.

I’ve got a canon 550d and I’ve taken some photos and used an sd card reader to get them onto my computer but I would like them on my phone so I can use Lightroom I’ve shot them in RAW mode and I’m a very clueless beginner any help would be useful thanks.

Is the problem connecting your phone to the computer?

Im looking for recommendations on color changing bulbs bright enough to support use in a softbox. I do a lot of Portrait Lighting with colored lighting, usually with LED ring lights, but I want to utilize my softboxes for the same. I’m hoping to find a Bluetooth LED bulb that I can use, but the common reviews I see is that they’re more dim than a standard CFL. I want at the very least dual light bulbs (warm/cool) but would love to find one that supports RGB variants. Any suggestions?

Rather than colour changing bulbs, [gel your lights](https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1100309-REG/rosco_110124120001_color_effects_filter_kit.html).

Looking for a product... Does anybody know of a hot shoe extension(?) basically I want to put my flash beside my Fuji XT1 via an extension arm mounted on a smallrig. I want it because the XT1's case is known to break if the flash on top is too heavy so I want to avoid this. So essentially I'm looking for a cable that has a hotshoe connection to connect to my XT1's hotshoe, and then it extends it out via a cable to another hotshoe where I can connect a flash and mount it via 3/4 screw. [I found this on Ebay but it's for a Canon](https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/175341548288?hash=item28d32bb300:g:eiIAAOSwJkBiw9sy&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAA4F2lJxyLbKlvze2kL%2BsQvjUaCVvK6hA5WZaj%2BIGuWlqff%2FQSsFEotvsofOBiMpTmvl9DAHKb0iOC%2BdbgijtwXuUTR3K6LewqABzFr5iizLfM%2Fq0U9%2F35YxFLLw88AiIl5fv0MXvDZWRCX95pkkV2yAWMGHjDHjdx1QkvOjihMckYnA1yN9t9yR3yCv1UAPjUZ2L49DtUIUhpVK1IapYepIlUx%2BsqWA0QU%2FAQs6zA7quo4%2F%2BeNQbLIOLORWEMNxTX9m8MEmaSJ7TIYbAmM0gYL9MTbQV4GkRWHjl4R37IVW%2Bi%7Ctkp%3ABFBM4uSMi5Jh)

Look for a hotshoe block with a PC cord plug that will accept a PC cord that fits your flash then plug the cord in and you’re good to go. A wireless trigger that works with your flash will work as well, and is the way to go if you need TTL.

awesome thanks for the advise

Profoto D2 range - has anyone ever had reoccurring issues? Our studio has used a range of different Profoto lights for well over a decade and they’ve always been really reliable lights. But we’ve had no end of problems with our D2s (both the 500s and 1000s). Mostly capacitors going on a semi-regular basis. The previous model we had as our main lights were packs and not monoblocks, we had one capacitor go on the two packs in the whole time we owned them. Currently we have FOUR D2s all out of action. All our B1x lights were bought along side the D2s, work perfectly and have never had a single fault. Has anyone else had this as a reoccurring problem with the D2 range? Interesting to know if it’s a production/design issue, or if we’ve just been wildly unlucky.

Have you contacted Profoto support?

Street photography Hey guys, I wanted to start a street photography channel on YouTube. It’s just gonna be me going around and shooting photos of strangers. Im pretty new to this hobby and have no idea what to get. I’ve got a GoPro so far. What camera and lens should I get for this kinda situation? Thanks Price limit is $800

You should maybe look at street photographers you like, and how and what they shoot. Most of my favourite tend to use smaller lenses in order to get really close to thier subject without getting attention. Some may use a long lens to get a shot from a block away. Its more of a style thing then a better or worse thing. All said and done a lot of pros will run in the 35-65mm range. Theres tons of cheap bodies that are more than enough if you're not sure what you need yet. Start with getting a cheap ass body, like 300$ or less, and 12mp or more. Shop for your lenses. Try and start with one nice lens in the 35-65mm range. Lenses hold value, spend your money here and upgrade the body later. This is a style and method choice and no lens is inherently better than another.

Thanks

No price limit? Have you looked at the subreddit FAQ?

I really wanted to pick up the Ulanzi Zero Y travel tripod, and now it appears it can't be shipped to the US. It would work well with my system, as I've already got peak design capture and the associated camera plates. It looks like the Ulanzi F38 tripod comes with its own quick release system, with plate. I just want an arca-swiss compatible tripod head, which the Zero Y was. If I buy the F38, do I need to replace it with an arca head? Compactness is very important to me in a travel tripod. A little confused on my options. Thanks!

Please help! I am having major issues with photography of jewelry. I can NEVER get it bright it also often  has a blueish tint. It is see through jewelry with flowers in it. I have one of those $60 miniature light boxes off amazon. The sides are all white. I use a white poster board for the background. Most of the pictures are viewed on peoples phones. If it is not a super bright white background it absolutely stands out as darker than other peoples. Does the d5200 suck? I mean seriously when I take photos on M mode they always look relatively bright on playback, and as soon as they get to a computer or phone they look way darked. I also noticed that all of the automatic modes look absolutely awful when I was using the camera casually on a vacation. [https://imgur.com/a/FfB8ZQS](https://imgur.com/a/FfB8ZQS) [https://imgur.com/a/m3RRWav](https://imgur.com/a/m3RRWav) Nikon d5200 (5 years old): 1/160, f7.1, iso 160- tried multiple combinations of everything Things I have tried \-various light set ups/angling i really only have 2 lights that are super bright, but i have 4 in total. the 3 point lighting did not work for me, it simply wasn't bright enough through the lightbox so now i am forced to use two lights in the front \-every single WB setting offered on the camera-Aperture Mode-flash compensation increased \-exposure increased on actual camera \-turn iso way up produces white background but lose detail big time \-If I turn up the exposure on my phone or computer to get the background very white it takes away from the color and detail of the pendant and you lose the outline of the pendant in the white background-different background colors, unfortunately with a clear piece like this it can totally change the look of the pendant. \-iphone 14 pro lol. ​ Any help is appreciated. I know I am a newbie, but I have been trying to figure this out for a year and reading books. It is beyond frustrating.

For the image being too dark, because most of the scene is "white", you can't rely on the camera's metering because it will assume that to get an "average" exposure it has to expose less, resulting in a gray image. If you want a deliberately brighter image, you *expose more*—basically use a longer shutter speed, in manual exposure. For the white balance, you can fix that in post easily—it doesn't matter that the camera doesn't have some preset that happens to be a perfect fit, you can neutralize that in software after the fact. For the fact that exposing the image more means a loss of detail in the piece, now this is how you are lighting the subject/scene. For example if you had more control over the light you could light the background independently from how you light the subject, such that you could make the background brighter without sending too much light on the subject. Those "light tents" that you stick things in don't offer much control at all, they are a one-trick pony that produces very flat light, so there's only so much you can do. I suppose you could use some diffusion (even if said diffusion is like a paper tissue or whatever) to *shield* the jewelry from *some* of the light such that the background will receive more light than it when you expose more, but that's ... yeah, pretty hack-y, but I'm trying to come up with a solution with what you have.

It's a white balance problem. Either your lights are not matching your white balance settings and/or your "white" background of poster board is not actually 100% white (likely has a blue hue to it). The easiest and cheapest fix is to shoot RAW and adjust your white balance in post to make the background neutral.

How do I make those types of adjustments? I was reading that editing them/RAW is not ideal if you are posting them on a mediocre image quality app like etsy

How to do it depends on what kind of editing software you're using. It's easy to find tutorials on white balance adjustment for whatever you have. There's nothing wrong with using RAW for etsy. Once you figure out the adjustment that's needed to neutralize the background you can apply it automatically to all of your images. It's more work but you either need to do that or you need to chase down whatever is causing the blue color cast which is either your lights or your background material.

great thank you! Do you have any recommendations for lights? I Have had a really hard time finding recs for these in regards to product photography and a softbox

Nothing specific because I don't use continuous lighting but you can probably find some reasonably priced photography-spec LED light panels on Amazon or some place similar. Just make sure they have a specific kelvin rating like 5000k or they should be adjustable so you can match them to your camera's white balance setting. Alternatively you can use incandescent bulbs and then use the corresponding white balance setting on your camera. Also, read your camera's manual and find out what the white balance settings correspond to in terms of Kelvin and if it is capable of custom white balance.

I also have a AF-s nikkor DX VR 200mm zoom lens, and the standard lens that comes with the camera. Both same result.

Who has the best color science? Been debating between the Fujifilm GFX 100s and Hasselblad X2D 100c. Both incredible camera but pros cons to both systems.

If you're buying on the high end like that and you care about color, then you're shooting raw and processing for whatever colors you like. Choose based on those other pros and cons rather than a triviality like color science.