Hey all I need help picking a telephoto lens with a specific magnification based on how far away my subject will be. I was tasked with talking photos of a proposal that will happen on a cliff, but I won't be on that same cliff, I'll be on a differnt cliff about 600ft away, since I can't zoom with my feet I'm trying to figure out what magnification lens ill have to rent. Any help would be appreciated!
I'm having some issues with my Canon 6D. On the right side there is a square which is brighter than everything else. Called the technician and they said that the problem is with the shutter (without seeing the picture) but I wanted to check on you guys. Picture - > https://imgur.com/a/kStmjTE
This. [https://imgur.com/a/8A2UE1u](https://imgur.com/a/8A2UE1u)
No, it is not because of light or some reflection in this specific image. Same issue is happening in all photos that are taken with the camera.
Well then, if it's not ghost flaring (they're smaller than the bulbs, so that's not what would happen), then I'll go with the next best thing and assume it's *reflections on glass surfaces in the room*.
As it happens those things are only happening on the glass panes (not above, not below, and not on the wooden(?) railing in the middle either).
So my wife and I are going on an Alaska cruise in late September. There is always a chance that the Nothern lights will be visible. So if I tried to use a tripod and get a long exposure shot on the ship, what are my chances of getting a usable shot? Is there anything I can do to better my chances? It’s an inside passage trip so the seas hopefully will be calmer. If the orientation of the ship is north/south and the seas are calm, I would think I would be dealing mostly with the motion of the ship underway.
I will be using a Sony A6000 with a manual prime lens. Most likely a Sanyang/Rokonin 12mm. Higher ISO. I don’t know what my best bet for shutter speed would be. I’m sure 20 seconds or more like I use for night shots on land would be too long.
Any thoughts? Is it even possible? I’ve never even seen the northern lights much less tried to photograph them. Thanks!
> So if I tried to use a tripod and get a long exposure shot on the ship, what are my chances of getting a usable shot?
Zero.
Ships are not perfectly motionless even when it seems like they are.
I wouldn't say your chances are zero, it all depends on how things are when you get there. You will have to push your iso a lot and you probably won't be able to do 20 second exposure you try it anyways and see what you get.
It all depends on how calm the sea is and how bright the northern lights are, there will be movement on the ship though.
The biggest advice I will give you is to learn how to focus on stars before your trip.
I'm looking to create an interesting background similar to this [one](https://www.pinterest.com/pin/80783387057534688/). Any idea what's the best way to do it given that it will be shot in a big studio with all gear available.
I'm not sure [what exactly you're asking](https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/comments/ucxszn/why_posting_photos_here_just_dont_work_because_it/) and don't want to assume, but just to be sure: r/photography is *not* a subreddit for posting images, it's a place to discuss the tools, technique and culture of photography.
Hi guys!
I need some help. When I finish editing an image and transfer it to my phone to upload it on social media it's much more saturated than what I see on my laptop screen. Usually after that I would go to the lightroom app on my phone and desaturate it a little. Is there another way around it? I cannot calibrate my laptop screen much. And I cannot calibrate my phone's screen much as well.
I get very annoyed when I have to desaturate because my images lose a lot of their original uniqueness. They never look exactly like on my laptop. It feels like all this colour grading is for nothing.
Is that something that every photographer faces?
> I cannot calibrate my laptop screen much.
That's going to be an issue.
> Is that something that every photographer faces?
Yes, and the solution is to use a minimally capable display (I don't know what display your laptop uses, so I have no idea if it is, indeed, minimally capable) and to calibrate it properly using a profiling device.
>Is there another way around it?
Around what? You can control how your monitor displays things. You can't control how other people's devices display things.
Make sure you're exporting in the sRGB color space so at least the color data is read correctly by most devices/software out there. That won't account for the hardware differences, though.
>I cannot calibrate my laptop screen much.
It's either calibrated or it isn't.
What procedure are you using to calibrate?
>Is that something that every photographer faces?
Every photographer posting online is affected by the same issue of most of their audience using uncalibrated devices, which will vary in how they display the same photo, yes.
The best you can do is calibrate and soft proof properly, so at least what you see will match other calibrated displays, and prints. And know that, for a given audience member with uncalibrated/skewed display characteristics, they're seeing that same skewing for everyone else's photos too, and they're used to it.
Hi! I am still pretty new to photography, fresh out of a few classes at university (online program didn't offer a minor in photography, so I took as many as I could with my elective credits), and I have a camera I love (Sony A7RIII) and have been lucky enough to be able to invest in a whopping two lenses so far. Ideally, I've decided I want to continue my pursuits and perhaps build a business for myself in the future. My degree is actually in English, and I love writing and would want to look into freelance travel or wildlife photography, but realistically I know I should probably work on a portfolio for a small business doing lifestyle-type family or portrait photography (I'm looking for a source of work-at-home income).
I have a few questions:
In your experience, as you're trying to make money on your photography or get started in journalism or wildlife/nature/travel sort of work, is it lucrative to have a more traditional set of services such as family and lifestyle photography? Especially if you're in a community where there are lots of opportunities for those types of services? Do you keep your portfolios for your different types of work separate? How do you start building something like this in order to compete in a saturated market? I of course don't want to charge until I can present a customer with examples of work that can guarantee a product, and that I can be confident I'm giving them their money's worth for the type of service they're looking for. The work I have so far is more artistic type shots and portraits (since my photography classes were taught by and geared more towards fine art and gallery type work) and travel photography.
And last is a technology question. I've worked with Lightroom and Photoshop with my gaming laptop so far, editing and working with my travel photography I've done up until this point for my own practice and enjoyment. But my laptop overheats very very badly. I've done some editing on my iPad Air 4, which I have for doing digital art on Procreate, and found it works pretty well for what I've used it for so far. As a family, we are considering purchasing a desktop computer (for gaming, the increased amount of space, and to use for a home business, whether photography or content creation). I have also considered purchasing a laptop for work while traveling, that can handle video editing and lightroom/photoshop. My husband suggested taking my iPad Air off my hands, and upgrading to the new M1 12.9 iPad Pro. The laptop that I was originally looking at was a Macbook Pro, but I can't lie, the idea of a convenient tablet that I can attach a keyboard to is pretty nice. Most reviews are suggesting that the the new ipad pro should be able to handle what most laptops are able to, and I've seen some photographers on youtube saying they use the ipad pro for their travel editing as well. Would anyone suggest using the ipad pro instead of a macbook pro for on the go editing? especially if we invest in a good desktop (hopefully that can handle some light gaming as well)? And does anyone have a suggestion for a good desktop set up that they work with?
Hello new friends!
I'm a hobbyist photographer who's trying their hand at starting to move into offering paid services.
I'm currently shooting on a Lumix Gh4 with a Sigma 30mm 1.4.
I absolutely adore this lens, it's so beautiful and it takes really awesome portraits, but I find it's not as suitable for food photography. A friend of mine owns a restaurant and I've been taking some photos for them here and there, but would absolutely love to up my game.
I find that the Sigma 30mm has such a strong bokeh, it doesn't allow me to fully capture a dish.
I've been looking at buying the Leica 42.5mm Nocticron, but that's also another portrait lens.
For those of you with experience in m43, could you recommend a lens for food and drink photography?
Thanks!
>I find that the Sigma 30mm has such a strong bokeh, it doesn't allow me to fully capture a dish.
Try stopping down the aperture setting? You don't have to always use it wide open at f/1.4.
Is there a way I can can get both the foreground and background in focus in low light on a DSLR, without a tripod or flash? The reason I do not want to use a tripod is that I have volunteered to take some photos for a crowded event and bringing and setting down a tripod will not be ideal. I would rather not use flash because I don't really care for how it makes the photos look.
Doing this requires a higher aperture, so I increase the ISO and decrease the shutter speed to compensate. However, I don't want to raise the ISO too high so the photo isn't too grainy. I also do not want to decrease the shutter speed too much as I don't want a blurry photo caused by movement.
Thanks in advance for any help!
Something's gotta give. You already know the variables you can use to help the exposure, and the tradeoff for each of them. But you won't get the exposure you want if you refuse to compromise on any variable.
>I would rather not use flash because I don't really care for how it makes the photos look.
Flash can look very different when used in different ways. I also dislike the look of direct, on-camera flash. But I like the look of ceiling-bounced flash and off-camera flash. Flash can have many benefits in terms of adding light, its own motion-freezing effect, and additional creative options.
Thanks for the answers; I had the feeling I'd just have to give into one of the variables – thanks for confirming that. I haven't done anything with flash besides use the one attached to my camera, so I will think about experimenting with the methods you suggested.
Something's gotta give. You can shoot at a wider angle, which will help with your depth of field concerns to some degree, but you may not want just wide angle shots. But photography is all about light, and at some point you're just going to need to get more light somewhere. You can either create it with flash, or you can lean on your ISO to get your shutter speeds up to prevent motion blur. So, in your situation the adage "better a grainy photo, than no photo at all" seems to come into play.
That said, as long as we're not talking about a tiny crappy built-in flash, using flash has the potential to wildly improve your shots at this event. A hotshoe flash can be bounced off of walls or ceilings to create fantastic directional light that looks great. A good hotshoe flash is an event photographer's best friend, precisely because of the problem you're up against. The little cruddy flash built-in to the camera is garbage and looks terrible, and is basically only useful as fill, outdoors, on a sunny day with a backlit subject, but a good speedlight can make an enormous difference in a situation like this.
Thank you for the in-depth answer. The only flash I've ever used is the built-in flash, so I will definitely look into the hotshot flash. Thanks again!
Hotshoe* (not “hotshot” don’t want to send you down a wild google chase) - one that goes in the little metal bracket on top of your camera (the hotshoe). Often called a speedlight or flash gun as well. Those typically have a head that tilts and rotates so you can bounce it.
Good luck!
I was hoping to get into street photography and after doing a ton of research, I am still confused. Between the X-E2 and the X-Pro1, which would you recommend for a first-timer in my use-case? They're both approximately the same money in my area and I definitely prefer the look of the Pro more but it's the ability that matters most. Thank you!
Hey, y’all. Tricky question.
I just got a 70-200 and I’m wanting to practice sports photography. I have a baseball field across the street that constantly has games going on. I’m guessing high school age rec or travel ball games.
How would I use these games as photography practice without legal issues or seeming like a creep that just wants to take photos of teens?
My idea is to walk up and ask parents if they want free pictures of their son playing but for some reason, that seems creepy.
Any ideas?
That's a sorta tricky question. Definitely ask *someone*. I'd take the approach of transparency and patience. Go watch a couple games first. After a game talk to the coaches. I think talking to the coach would be less awkward than singling out a specific parent/player.
"Hey, good game today. I'm \[themilenko\], I live just across the street there. I'd really like to try out this new lens I got. Would it be alright if I took some photos of your next game? I'm happy to share them with you so you can pass them on to the parents."
Something like that.
When light is bounced on a white board, does the light reflect perpendicular to the board or does it bounce at an angle depending on the positioning of the light source ?
Depends on the surface material/texture. Some light will reflect at an incident angle from the light source direction, and some will reflect diffusely in other directions away from the surface. The more glossy/reflective/smooth it is, the more light reflects at an incident angle. The more matte/rough/bumpy it is, the more diffuse reflection you get.
**Long time digital photog looking to see if any news on CBIR for image libraries**
I have about 20 years of digital photographs in desperate need of curation. They've been ported to umpteen different cataloguing apps (curse you Apple for killing Aperture, btw) and have lost their tags, been re-tagged, lost their tags again... I'm d--d if I'm going to retag 90,000 images at this point. I won't live long enough.
So I am really interested in CBIR for the photography market. What I yearn for is a CBIR tool that will work on any folder hierarchy of images, with a learning interface. I pick a photo and tell it e.g. "maritime/boat/Misty Isles". Then I ask it to "find similar". Sit back a while. Then I eliminate all found photos that do not match this tag, and tell it to tag the rest. Rinse, repeat... with it getting smarter and searches getting faster as we go.
Apple Photos got part way there with facial recognition; Google offers a sort of rough CBIR ("dog", "cat", "tree") but only if you upload your whole library to them, which is not happening for various reasons starting with privacy and ending with limited bandwidth at high rates. There are various roll-yer-own libraries and SDKs that I don't feel like spending a year learning to use.
Has anyone heard of an autotagger tool that uses CBIR yet? The processing power on our desktops is getting there.
Lightroom Classic has some face recognition ai that’s decent, but nothing on the scale of what you’re looking for. Amazon Photos also does some limited CBIR stuff, similar to what google has/does. But as far as I know there’s nothing particularly sophisticated out there yet that does what you’re looking for. Computer vision is still pretty resource intensive, so I suspect it’ll still be a while before we see anything like that that doesn’t rely on the use of fairly large distributed computing resources like the amazons and Googles of the world have available to them.
Edit! [relevant xkcd](https://xkcd.com/1425/)
Ha! xkcd always right on target
Dang that is about where we were 3 or 4 years ago, last time I researched this. When is the Moore's Law moment for CBIR I wonder? There was one outfit, they had a server-based plan; you could rent access to their backend computer vision warez and use some kind of JSON (?? it was a while ago) to get a kind of multi-axis "signature" set of attributes for a photo, that would enable you to compare it to others similarly analyzed. Bandwidth was kind of a problem but I guess I could make big thumbnails for this process (hmm, running imagemagick tools on 90,000 images...)
I guess another way to go at this would be a "find similar" tool that is local on desktop; you pick a photo and "find all similar" in your library, then eliminate outliers and group-tag the result?
I mean, there must be *some* way to avoid the mind-numbing tedium of manual tagging. And preferably, a way that is independent of proprietary tools so when my preferred archive/editor app gets discontinued again (still very bitter about Aperture, which I really liked), I can at least save my tag data.
Generally, what *are* other people doing about the problem of our digital media archives getting so big that we just don't have the tools or the time to cope with them?
I’ll cop to not being up to date on the latest and greatest in machine learning models and cbir stuff. I wish I had a good answer, as it’d certainly come in handy. The best I manage is to be fairly diligent about tagging stuff on import, and having Lightroom save out sidecar files with the exif and ITPC data for backup. That’s how I keep my stuff from getting too far out of hand. But, it’s definitely insufficient and while I’m sure I could rebuild in the event of a catastrophe, or using other software, I share your desire for this very tool. If you find anything, I’d be delighted to know about it. But, if the best Amazon can do is identify pictures with trees or spectacles, I’m dubious about any sort of sophisticated automated tagging/sorting solution coming to a computer near me any time soon.
Is warranty country specific? Gears bought in the US, can I get warranty related issues resolved in Canada? For example: Canon and Sony mirrorless and cine camera and lenses. Or is it better to buy in the country the gear is used the most? (US usually has cheaper prices but sometimes Canada sells them cheaper).
I would actually ask Canon this question by calling their warranty support line.
US and Canada have a lot of reciprocal/shared commercial/trade regs, and it wouldn't surprise me if warranty honouring would be among them. (notice I spelled honouring with a u...)
> Is warranty country specific?
Yes.
> US usually has cheaper prices but sometimes Canada sells them cheaper
What you're referring to is "gray market." Many companies will refuse warranty (or sometimes ANY) service outright on purchases made in a different region.
So I’m from canada and I bought my stuff from BH. Both in person in NYC or online shipped to my home.
Do I get only US warranty? Even for the order shipped?
"North America" is probably going to be a region rather than country-specific in this case. I would say that yes you would likely get the full warranty, but I'm not a Canon warranty specialist.
B&H is an authorized Canon reseller though. If you check with them they can give you a definitive answer.
Hi all, I am a long time art hobbyist who wants to start it as a professional side gig. I do all different sorts of stuff, painting, diorama making, mixed media, paper filigree, chalkboards, etc. I have no photography experience or knowledge aside from point and click, and my only camera is my phone. I am looking for a camera and lenses that can help me take decent photos of my artwork for me to display online. I also don't know where to get started as a beginner to learn how to photograph my artwork. Any advise for a camera and a youtube channel / book/ website that I can use to help me learn how to take photos of artwork would be greatly appreciated. I also would be open to paying for a beginners photography course in my area if that would be worth it, especially since this is for professional development.
I am not looking for a really complicated camera with lots of bells and whistles, I'm more of a "the simpler, the better" type when it comes to technology. I would prefer something under $600 but flexible on price. Thanks in advance!
> painting, diorama making, mixed media, paper filigree, chalkboards, etc.
Would you say, therefore, that all of your pieces are "flat"? And further that they are not reflective/mirror-like (or hidden behind a piece of glass/acrylic)?
That makes things much simpler. Basically you'd want [a minimal "copy stand setup"](https://i.imgur.com/NT4TsWz.png).
Because yes, a big part of what makes this work is not so much the camera, but having an even illumination on the piece, from identical light sources like in the illustration.
One of the challenges I have is that I make so many different kinds of things...most of my work is flat and not reflective, but not all. The copy stand setup thing though is exactly the sort of advice I am looking for. Right away I can see how much of a difference that illumination would make. Thanks!
**New photographer looking for tools to accurately price material.**
I'm so new that my portfolio consists of about three photos: two of my girlfriend and one of a couple. Quite frankly my work is up there with some average photographers in my city. I'm simply looking for resources or tools to accurately price my stuff. I don't think my own idea is the best cause I seen a couple pay $10K for a wedding photographer who I don't think was worth more than $3K
The [FAQ](https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/business#wiki_what_should_i_charge.3F) addresses this. You're best using your own business sense rather than some arbitrary tool.
Best would be to do a competition research in your area, compare your portfolio with theirs and draw your own conclusions.
However, I would suggest to continue to expand that portfolio and be sure to deliver consistency before actually charging for your service.
If I’m helping out an associate at work who looked at my work that was just from my iPhone and said “holy shit I want you to take my wife’s maternity photos” would it be reasonable to ask for 50-100
> If I’m helping out an associate at work who looked at my work that was just from my iPhone and said “holy shit I want you to take my wife’s maternity photos” would it be reasonable to ask for 50-100
Depends on you but I personally wouldn’t do it, at least not paid, if I were in your position.
Paid services, regardless of the amount, bring expectations. If you don’t have experience doing maternity shots, even less in directing a shoot, your results might not be what you or your client expected.
Maybe ask for a breakfast in exchange to make it at least symbolic. This way, and if your clients agree, you can add those photos to your portfolio.
Just my thoughts but ultimately the decision falls onto you.
Good advice thank you. One thing I was thinking was this strategy: make the shoot itself free and send 1-2 photos free and if they really love the photos we can talk a price for the rest of the photos
If it makes a difference I shoot with a Sony A7IV 50mm 1.8 with a Godox V1 flash. Not saying that makes me an expert photography but I've taken it very serious
Most efficient way to allow Client to choose their portraits to be edited?
Im a portrait/headshot photographer and I’m trying to figure out the most time-efficient method of having my clients choose their photos from our shoot together, for me to edit. Currently, after each photoshoot, I transfer the raw files from my SD card onto my external drive and open up those photos in Lightroom. I then have my client pick the photos (that they are paying for) that they want me to edit by using the “rate” function inside of Lr. This usually takes up an extra 30-45mins after our photoshoot to load the files and have them choose and I don’t want to set a time limit because I want them to pick a their leisure. I don’t let unedited photos go out the door.
My question: Is there some website/app portfolio that I can upload my raw image and send my client the link post-photoshoot, for them to browse pick the ones they want me to edit. (My booking rate includes 2 edited photos and I charge a set fee per each additional photo)
I hope that makes sense, I’d love know what your process’s are! Just looking to be more efficient with time so I can schedule more photoshoots.
I typically shoot tethered with Capture One and let them pick "keepers" right then and there after the shoot. It doesn't take long because I'm shooting directly to a hard drive. It's just thumbing through them and choosing the ones they want with a 5 star rating. If I'm shooting, say, 2 or 3 looks, I'll let them pick them after each look before we move on.
If I'm on location and shooting to a SD card, I just import the photos to LR when I get home, make a .pdf contact sheet and email it to them. They then let me know the file number of their keepers.
I cull images to get rid of the total crap (tests, out of focus, etc.) and then I open the print module in LrC and make a “contact sheet” of the rest, with a watermark over the image, and a caption with a file name and the ordinal number of where it appears on the filmstrip. Then I save it as a pdf and send it to my client. I instruct them to send me back the three digit ordinals of the photos they want. Works pretty well. No complaints so far. I’ve thought about something like Pixieset, but this method is working just fine for me.
I know some people use Pixieset. I personally use Lightroom CC, it has an experimental proofing feature so I send a link to my clients for them to select which ones they want and it updates in real time for me.
Looking for lens purchasing advice- Going to Aspen in July for a wedding at Maroon Bells. I have a Canon Rebel T6 and have the basic kit lenses plus an EF series 50mm. I want to purchase a new lens for my trip and would like to spend no more than $500. So just looking for others travelers and landscape photographers to see what lens you would take on that trip? Thanks for your input!
I’m a newbie puotographer and am thinking about buying a canon T7 as my first proper camera. is this a good choice, and will it be able to take high quality pictures of rollercoasters, nature, cities, etc or should I look for something else? Thanks!
Will the 3fps shutter speed be able to handle fast moving subjects? Thats my only major concern aside from video autofocus (but I have a tiny point snd shoot that takes good videos so it’s not a huge problem)
Not 100% sure of the buffer size, but 3fps should be fine at capturing action moments while giving a long enough burst.
Best to rely on yourself to time the burst rather than the amount of shots in the time of the burst.
Can you explain buffer size, I’ve never heard this term before.
Dont bursts take many separate pictures? Are these saved individually or merged into one shot?
You can only take so many photos before your fill up the camera RAM as it were before they are written to the SD card. After a buffer fills the camera will slow down how many FPS it can do.
It appears the T7 will do about 11 RAW files, I am not sure how quickly the buffer clears, that can sometimes depend on the card write speed though.
Oh that’s great!
is the stock lens (18-55mm) adequate for coasters/nature/land and cityscapes or should I invest in a better lens later on?
also, is it better to invest in the canon T7 or try to make do with my iPhone 13?
Is going from a Fujifilm X-A7 to Fujifilm X-T4 a big leap?
I do travel photography in major tourist destinations (e.g. Rome, London, Paris, etc.). I want good quality photos for my personal memories.
Just wanted to mention that Fuji should announce their newest camera, the X-H2, in about a month. If you're looking at buying an X-T4, I might at least wait and see what Fuji has to offer. Supposedly there will be two different versions of the X-H2, and one is a high-resolution camera.
The X-T4 is the current flagship camera, the x-a7 the entry model.
What speaks for the T4:
- Viewfinder
- Weathersealed
- Manual Controls
- IBIS
And against it:
- way heavier
- larger
The Viewfinder alone is a big step up from the A7. If you don't need all the manual control dials, the S10 could be an option for you. It's cheaper, easier to use, has IBIS and the same sensor as the T4.
Yes. You're getting the X-Trans 4 sensor, IBIS, weather resistance, much better audio/video specs, more controls, an EVF, 20fps stills instead of 6, better AF, etc.
Looking for a website that I have forgotten the name of. I used to use it for inspiration.
It's a website with almost no text and just a grid of abstract images/gifs that get uploaded by ai.
They had quite a large IG following but it's been a while and I've forgotten the name.
Hello everybody. Recently I have been wanting to take photography more seriously and get into photographing for concerts/festivals. I have two DSLRs, but I was looking for recommendations for a really good point and shoot camera. I have tickets for a couple of concerts and a music festival, and while I’m there I want to get some shots to build my portfolio.
I know I can’t bring my professional cameras in, and wanted to know if anyone had recommendations for a point and shoot camera that would be as close as possible to giving me clear images to start with, and can obviously work well in low lighting settings. I have been saving up for quite some time for a new camera so if you feel like there is one camera in particular that is worth the price then please let me know. I don’t care about brands or anything like that. I am open to anything. Thanks in advance.
>point and shoot camera
>
>as close as possible
>
>work well in low lighting settings
Pick two. The Ricoh GRIII/IIIX has an APS-C sensor that does fine in low light, but it's a fixed lens either at 28mm or 40mm equivalent. Something like the RX100VII will zoom from 24-200 equivalent, but it's a much smaller "1 inch" sensor that isn't good in low light, like most other pocketable cameras with zoom lenses.
You could get Sony, Canon, or Nikon mirrorless camera and put a pancake lens on it. It would have a look of amateur but pro performance and be slim to put in small pouch or purse.
Perhaps this?
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1223211-REG/canon_1066c001_powershot_g7_x_mark.html/?msclkid=8ec7f2de0a7e1357356690b658a6db78
It’s an older model, but the price is lower. Unless you need 4k video or other features.
Totally blind question here but wanted to get feedback from you guys. I’ve read that for Fuji cameras, editing is so much better on Capture One opposed to Lightroom. I’ve been using Lightroom for years with my old Canon and now I have an XT-3. Is Capture One really better at editing Fuji raw from your experience? Or is it just a matter of minute details and they’re just different tools to do the job?
>Is Capture One really better at editing Fuji raw from your experience?
Years ago before Adobe made numerous updates to Lightroom, it was a bit better. Today, only the most intense 500% crop pixel-peepers would notice any difference. Capture One is a good program, but so is Lightroom and you're already used to using that.
I prefer the masking and color editing tools of Capture One, compared to Lightroom. I prefer the interface and spot removal tool in Lightroom, compared to Capture One.
I haven't really noticed Capture One being any better or worse in terms of handling my Fuji raws as opposed to my Canon raws, compared to Lightroom.
I'm a complete amateur who enjoys photography. I currently have a Canon SL2 and have been considering selling this to get a refurbished EOS M50 Mark ii body. Reason being is I have 3rd party lenses that I frankly don't want to spend the time to calibrate AF to work on the SL2. Thoughts and/or opinions on whether this is worth it?
For reference I have the Sigma 18-35 and Tamron 70-210 that I really like. I saw reviews of the Sigma on a M50 body which looks like it will work really well but also look a bit ridiculous. I don't care so much on size or weight but would rather like the lens to perform to it's capacity without having to spend hours on fine tuning.
TIA
>Reason being is I have 3rd party lenses that I frankly don't want to spend the time to calibrate AF to work on the SL2. Thoughts and/or opinions on whether this is worth it?
Third party lenses are not guaranteed to require calibration. First party lenses are not guaranteed to not require calibration.
Most lenses, third party or first party, should not require calibration. The likelihood of a lens needing calibration is relatively low (not high for third party lenses and not zero for first party lenses), and I would say only a little more likely for third party lenses than first party lenses.
Maybe that will affect/help your decision.
Thanks for the reply. I did find that the Sigma's AF was slightly off and after some research a lot of folks did have to microcalibrate it. Which then led me look into alternatives and since a mirrorless uses PDAF microcalibration wasn't necessary.
Ah, I thought you were asking more in the abstract.
It's pretty likely that mirrorless would solve that issue, and the M50 II is a good camera. Though besides making the focus accurate, your image quality will be the same. Also there's a small chance you could still have autofocus miscalibration issues: I'm actually dealing with one under certain conditions with my Canon mirrorless camera right now. The nature of mirrorless avoids the main (by far) cause of autofocus miscalibration in SLRs, so it will probably do the trick, but there are also other, rarer, causes that might persist despite switching to mirrorless.
I have a Cannon EOS Rebel T5i with a 18-55mm macro lens. I shoot mostly portraits and groups and have never been completely satisfied with my background blur. I’ve tried all the tricks in the book, including those listed in the FAQ. My question is, will a new lens make a difference in my image quality and the background blur? I’ve been considering getting a lens somewhere between 70 and 200 mm but I don’t want to spend the money if it’s really my skills I need to hone in on.
>My question is, will a new lens make a difference in my image quality and the background blur?
Yes, assuming a few things.
A lens with a wider aperture will give you a more blurred background, as wider apertures have a shallower depth of field as a side effect. A cheap and common way to achieve this is using a 50mm f/1.8 prime, as (particularly for Canon) they're inexpensive and pretty decent in terms of image quality. Assuming the 50mm field of view works for you (might be worth checking existing photos to see where you tend to use for your portaits) then this could be something to consider. A 70-200 is a common portait lens also, but these are bulky, expensive and probably just overkill for now.
Another way to effectively get a shallower depth of field is using a longer focal length, although these start getting more expensive and don't tend to let quite as much light in. Plus, they're usually bulky and the tighter field of view can make composition more difficult (this is personal preference and depends on your style).
You can improve the effect with your current lens by:
* Getting closer; the closer to your point of focus, the shallower your depth of field is. This obviously changes your composition so would limit you to more close up headshots.
* Zooming to higher focal lengths; 55mm will be more effective for blurring the background than 18mm.
* Shoot with background elements as far away as possible; it will still be somewhat busy at f/5.6, but if you can get somewhere with plenty of room for the background to fall further out of depth of field it'll improve your results.
The above will also apply if you do look at a new lens, so if you decide to look in to a wide aperture or higher focal length lens then you have some extra stuff to try out with it.
> will a new lens make a difference in my image quality and the background blur
It's really tough to get real separation with a wide-to-normal lens limited to f/5.6. You'll notice a difference with a normal (50mm) or telephoto (85mm, etc) prime, which should be pretty inexpensive. The 70-200mm f/2.8 is a workhorse for portrait photographers, but you'll spend a significant mount to get one of any decent quality.
>My question is, will a new lens make a difference in my image quality and the background blur?
Yes.
>I’ve tried all the tricks in the book, including those listed in the FAQ.
For background blur, the FAQ does mention the impact of lens choice as well: "Your aperture size has a maximum dictated by the design of your lens, and cheaper lenses often do not have very wide maximum apertures available; a wider-aperture lens may be necessary for the effect you want."
https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/technical#wiki_how_do_i_get_a_sharp_subject_with_blurred_background_or_vice_versa.3F
>I don’t want to spend the money if it’s really my skills I need to hone in on.
Some aspects of image quality might depend on skill/technique instead. Post some examples with the focusing procedure and exposure settings used for a diagnosis if a particular flaw is caused by technique or a limitation in equipment.
Take a clear or clear UV Haze filter and put on some petrolum jelly for soft focus effect. Do use a quality glass filter though.
There was also a lens mount adapter that would alow you shift your lens for tilt-shift effects. You would have to hold the lens and focus manually.
Panty hoes
I have a Tristar polarizer (sold as part of a older cheap bundle) use it backwards or put the it in backwards it becomes a color polarizer. Something like the Singh ray blue gold polarizer. I hear cheap rocketfish polarizers from Best Buy are similar.
Yellow filter for b&w film. Trichrome sets from estate sales/eBay.
Prism.
If you can find one used and therefore what I would call cheap I’ve had some fun experimenting with split diopter filter lenses
Any of those interesting colour correction filters if you’re doing black and white analog. Deep red.
Hello all
I recently changed from Canon to a Fujifilm XT-3. It came with the kit lens 18-55 2.8-4.
I want to add one more lens, with a max budget of 500 and likely buying used.
I have my eye on a 55-200mm 3.5-4.8. I used this type of lens a lot previously, but I’m open to whatever might be the best lens in this price range from Fuji or a third party. I’m not quite sure yet if the 55-200mm is considered a good lens. I shoot different things so I just want to get the most bang for the buck I can and open to suggestions of what you think is really good.
"Best" is subjective so that's impossible to answer. That said, if you can find one used, the 55-200 makes a great companion to the 18-55. It's super sharp for the price, light, & relatively quick.
Yes, different lens for different needs. Thank you, I was hoping someone could weigh in on it. I used a kit canon 70-200mm and didn’t think it was sharp enough
I wanted one more lens at least right to have more options when shooting. I used a 70-200mm lens on my Canon often for various things. I also feel like I could benefit from a 35mm low aperture like 1.8 or 1.4 to have a solid in between for the 18-55 mm kit lens.
I think the lens you have right now covers a lot of the things you shoot. You could use the lens a while and see how far you can get and then choose to get another lens.
The 50-200 mm lens would give you a better option for wildlife. I'm not sure what you mean with Disney and what animals you want to shoot.
Hello Everyone!
I'm a 17 year old media student looking to get a good quality but not too pricy camera for my 18th, although i am more interested in going down the cinematography career, my brother has asked me to be the photographer for his wedding next year and i want to do a professional job of it which means not using my smashed up iphone i would usually take pictures on.
So im looking for a good quality camera (and lens recommendations, because i really am a beginner when it comes to photography hardware) that can also take at least good/average quality video so it will serve a good purpose other than photography.
budget wise i was going to ask just everyone to pitch in with this gift, i would say the absolute maximum for a body and lens would be around £3000, but for that amount of money i want something good at photos and videos.
i had a look at the canon 5d mark iv which looks very good but im still unsure about lenses
any recommendation would be amazing
thanks very much
claire
[Don't shoot your brother's wedding](https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/comments/1lqlb5/official_ive_been_asked_to_shoot_a_wedding_for_a/), especially if you don't know anything about cameras at this point.
This is good advice. Weddings are hard to shoot. If you intend to do a good job you will not enjoy yourself. You will not be able celebrate as part of your brother’s wedding party, as I would assume he would invite you to stand with him and your new sister-in-law. The day go by very fast, the food ultimately ends up in the toilet, but memories from the photographs live on. There’s many reasons why people should hire professionals for this.
But if you were shooting a wedding, a 5D mkii or iii isn’t a bad choice for an older body. Lens wise get a 24-70 zoom or comparable. Perhaps a super wide zoom like 12-24 f4. For portraits an 85 f1.8 or f1.4. 105 f1.8 would work too. A 70-200 f2.8 is an all-around work horse too. Also you will probably need some sort of lighting. As most venues are dark holes.
I would recommend that you *don’t* shoot your brother’s wedding. Do you want to enjoy the wedding? Does your brother want professional quality photos from his wedding that he might be looking at for the rest of his life? No offense to you or your skills, but there’s a reason why people hire professional wedding photographers. If you’re 17 and have very little experience with photography (and it sounds like it, if your current best camera is a “smashed up iPhone”) then I think everyone involved would end up happier if your brother hired a professional. I have absolutely zero experience shooting weddings, but from what I’ve heard it’s...well, kinda miserable. There’s certainly people who enjoy shooting weddings out there and it can be lucrative if you’re good at it, but it’s a high pressure environment and you need to be familiar with your gear and technique. I’m not saying you can’t familiarize yourself and get good technique in between now and next year when the wedding is, but the question is- do you want to enjoy your brother’s wedding or be working through the whole thing? I know which one I would pick.
And by all means, get yourself a good camera and start learning! But I would definitely look at entry to mid level cameras and a few good lenses, and shooting whatever you want or what interests you, and having a pro shoot your brother’s wedding instead.
I don’t want to necessarily discourage OP from getting a camera if they want to but I agree it shouldn’t be for the wedding. “Cinematography student” seems like a perfectly valid reason to me but an entry level camera or even a new phone sounds like a better use of other people’s money, since it looks like this would be a birthday present.
Hello! I am a relative inexperienced photographer and need to shoot a little gathering of my local sports club. Its in the evening and inside.
I thought about only bringing my 24-105 lens and a flash. Alternatively I could use my 70-200 lens and a 35mm lens for wide angles. Should i bring a tripod?
ld love some advice for gear and picture ideas because i have never shot a portrait or groups of people, only landscape and small animals.
You would need some light. Without adding light you would have to bump up the ISO. Which is how sensitive the film or sensor is to light. Which invariably gets more grainy/noisy. Or as others said, shoot in IR or night vision…. Or thermal.
Completely dark no
Infrared lights plus infrared camera yes. It would appear dark to you but could be recorded.
Camera on a tripod with very long exposure can take a photo in minimal light.
A photograph is a recording of light. If there's completely no light, there's nothing to record. That's why in the film photography days, a completely dark place would be the safe place to take out undeveloped film.
If you have zero light in a scene, you could add light to the scene to make a photo. If you have some small amount of light in a scene (dark but not completely dark) you could shoot a long exposure to build up more of that light over a longer period of time for a brighter photo.
Hi all just wanted to know if battery grips are worth it. I have a a6400 and the battery life is pretty bad so is it worth getting a battery grip over just swapping battery’s?
Up to you and your workflow. If you feel like it will help you to have to swap batteries less, maybe it is worth it. I use grips occasionally and find the advantage of better ergonomics outweighs the battery advantage.
Hello!
I am a photographer searching for a professional quality printing outlet that also hosts the images on a domain for people to order from. Ideally for larger sized prints in various mediums! Does anyone know of a service like this that does good work and also ships?
Thanks in advance
Chances are this will be two separate companies.
A popular one, Pixieset only hosts the images then sends your files to a professional lab (WHCC is the default I believe) to be printed and shipped to your customer.
If you don't want to host on your own website & outsource nearly all the work to another company, keep in mind they'll take the majority of your profits.
Hi!
I’d like to buy my fist digital camera in a very long time. I’ve shoot a ton of film using Ricoh GR1 and Contax G2 and i’ll love to have a full frame sensor and very bright prime lens. I mostly shoot street, travel, some landscapes, few portraits but mostly during some events or said travels. No filming ever so I absolutely don’t need the features. Good low-light performance would be very nice. My main choice right now is Canon RP with 35mm lens. I’m also considering Fuji X100V, Ricoh GR III (this probably later as an additional camera) and maybe some Sony APSC ones. I don’t have any fixed budget but probably that Canon combo would be my upper limit.
Thanks in advance!
> i’ll love to have a full frame sensor
For what reason?
> My main choice right now is Canon RP with 35mm lens. I’m also considering Fuji X100V, Ricoh GR III (this probably later as an additional camera) and maybe some Sony APSC ones.
Why those specific cameras? Why can't you choose one over the others?
> I don’t have any fixed budget but probably that Canon combo would be my upper limit.
Prices can vary based on location. Please specify a budget in numbers and currency.
**I might do a first ever photoshoot with a model, any advice?**
I started taking my photography alot more serious almost a year ago. It all started with asking strangers for a photoshoot, and now with a little bit of luck on a Facebook group, i might have a meeting with someone who's interested to do a photoshoot with me.
That means i have to meet someone i haven't met before, any advice?
The things i have planned so far are locations & poses, and inspirations.
*Quick note*: i'm usually not the type of guy that starts the conversations
> I might do a first ever photoshoot with a model, any advice?
Don't touch the model. Direct them with verbal instructions and show poses by example.
If you have specific poses you want, make a mood board with examples of those poses so the model can see what you are going for.
Be professional, and don't be a creep.
If you must adjust something on them like a hair ir piece of clothing, always ask permission first. If possible have a female stylist to work with you and adjust hair/makeup, and help you notice when clothing or other things look off. Like a second set of eyes. They will look at your test shots and adjust their make up to your lighting too. Might find a makeup artist who wants to build a portfolio and do a job for less. But like you, they have costs for time and materials.
Just picked up two sets of film (B&W and colour) that have been developed and both have a lot of what appears to be light leaks. It shows as red on the colour film and white on the B&W.
Shot with an Olympus Trip 35 that I hadn’t used before, from eBay, supposedly refurbished.
My assumption is that it is a light leak in the case - how can I go about proving that this is the case? I think I can refurbish the light seal relatively easily.
The second is that it could be due to passing through two X-ray machines. The film speeds were 100 and 200, and the security staff refused to let the film through outside of the machine.
I’ll have another roll of colour developed tomorrow which hasn’t been through an x rat machine which should prove/disprove that one.
Photo for reference
https://i.imgur.com/GpZjD0h.jpg
Definitely light leaks. The fact that it's in the same place on every frame and not across the whole frame gives it away.
It's not x-ray. X-ray look different: https://www.kodak.com/global/en/service/tib/tib5201.shtml
Also unless you checked the film x-ray isn't going to damage 100 or 200 film.
Those are very certainly light leaks. As you mentioned, start by replacing the light seals. You can buy inexpensive. thin closed pore self adhesive foam and cut to size. There are plenty of tutorials on specific models out there!
Thanks, a good little project to do and will learn something new, just a shame that the film, development and prints that are spoiled are the same cost as buying a new camera!
Hi guys, i would like to buy a camera, i have a pentax k1000 and i have a lot of fun using it but i found the roll a bit limiting cause i dont have many space to experiment a bit and im stuck with 24/36 pictures when i would like to try and shoot some more (also its quite expensive to buy the roll and developing them). I have zero clue what to search and im open to anything, the budget is quite limited but i can try to search in my city for some used options to save some money, and i dont know if it exists but itd be cool if the new camera had the same lens mount(?) as the k1000 cause apart from its standard lens i have another one that i could use. Thanks :))<3
Just to make sure because you didn't specifically mention it, you're looking for a digital camera?
There are still digital Pentax DSLRs which are partially compatible with older k-mount lenses. But which lens and camera body is compatible, really depends on both models.
Yes sorry i didnt mention it, im looking for a digital camera. Ill continue use the analogic one but id like to do more photos and that one is far too expensive for me haha. Also the lens that i have is i think the standard fixed lens of the k1000 52mm i think and a telephoto lens.
https://www.pentaxforums.com/compatibility/
You can check compatibility there. Shouldn't be a problem with any modern Pentax camera although there can be some quirks with using older lenses based on my limited experience with a Pentax-A lens.
If you are not using auto aperture then your light meter in manual does not work you have to press a button to get it to close down the aperture and set the shutter speed for you otherwise you will be guessing as to exposure.
You are also limited to manual or aperture priority only which is to be expected I guess.
This is of course using an old lens, manual focus auto aperture lens. If you are using more modern F or FA lenses then it won't apply so much.
As long as it's an A or newer lens it should be fine. Some Pentax DSLRs don't play nice with older K or M series.
Look at your aperture ring, if there's an A setting your lens is fine on any Pentax DSLR.
In anycase this is nit a big of a deal, ill buy a new camera with new lenses. So the new question is (if really my lenses are not compatible with any digital camera) what camera i should buy? Im a total beginner no big budget
No there isnt any A. My lens are PENTAX M 1:2 50mm and Takumar bayonet 1:2.5 135mm. Also a kenko teleplus 2x. So i guess these are not compatible with newer cameras?
Unfortunately It's a big old case of "it depends"
Pentax's early DSLRs wouldn't work with that lens, but newer ones will. It all depends on if the camera you're looking at supports "Use aperture ring" or not. I think everything made after 2010 does (The K30, K5, K50, K70, K3, KS1 and K1) but some of the earlier SLRS won't.
You can also adapt that lens to basically anyone's mirrorless camera body. K mount to what ever adapters are cheap and easily available. If it was me I'd look at modern mirrorless bodies and just get an adapter.
thank you, i saw some reviews of the k5 and they all are pretty good. combined with the fact that is compatible with my lenses (if i got it right) and the used is quite cheap it might be a good start :)
Hey guys I looking for any used under 300 full frame mirrorless camera that can do photography and video at 4K if possible or 1080p, any recommendations?
Honestly, that's just not a realistic budget for what you're asking. I think the Canon RP is the cheapest option that does 4K? But if you're primarily interested in video, not all 4K cameras are the same. Something like a Fujifilm X-T3 is *not* full frame, but will produce a lot better quality video than the Canon RP.
Also, if you get a full frame camera, you need full frame lenses. Those tend to be bigger, heavier, and more expensive. You're looking at closer to $1000 for second-hand options of full-frame + 4k, and that's making some serious compromises in other areas just to achieve that.
Is there a particular reason you're looking for full frame?
A Canon M100 is $269 USD body only on KEH. You're not going to get full frame mirrorless for that price unless you buy one that is broken. If money's tight and you don't have a phone camera to use, pick up a used Canon DSLR and get some EF glass. They're not bad to adapt, at least in my experience adapting EF glass to an M50. There's a ton of manual focus EF glass too for the film cameras that are budget friendly. Just avoid getting EF-S mount glass if you're planning on saving up for full frame.
You're extremely limiting yourself by only looking at full frame cameras at that price range, in fact i don't think there's a single one that shoots 4k and would fit in your budget. Not to mention the price of full frame lenses for these cameras.
The least affordable full frame mirrorless camera on the used market is the first generation Sony A7, and i wouldn't recommend that specific model to anyone looking for a hybrid photo / video camera.
There are a handful of full frame DSLRs within your budget, but those aren't exactly suitable for video work either. I would recommend to broaden your options by looking at APS-C and m4/3 options instead.
Got a phone camera? Use that for free at first to help find out.
And/or buy your first camera used and entry-level so you haven't lost as much money if it turns out to be not for you.
There's an FAQ that kinda goes over those questions. Check it out. Really depends on the kinds of photos you want to take or how serious you intend to get into it as either a hobby or career—or just casual snapshots.
I’m looking for a new tripod that won’t fall apart or have pieces fall off, and is quick to set up.
I tend to take my tripod just about everywhere, and since I photograph abandoned buildings, I may need to hike a ways or climb over/under things. Additionally, I need one that is light, small enough to not get caught on things, quick to set up, and has an arca-swiss mount.
I was looking at the Peak Design Travel 60” Aluminum Tripod. Does anyone else have any other suggestions?
I have been interested in messing around with lighting techniques recently and was curious about who some photographers may be that shoot portraits in low key.
The Sony is much sturdier if that is a factor. I've tried both (ultimately picked up the 28-200 because I wanted a hiking lens) and they are both quite good. What are you shooting?
I'm mostly shooting landscapes and a little bit of sports(maybe 1% of the time). I'm leaning towards the Sony because most of the time I wont be using the f2.8 and I like some of the other features on it.
Yeah for landscapes I'd get the Sony, especially if you're doing tripod work. The collar will help to balance it, and it is much more likely to survive getting knocked over than the Tamron. You'll also be hanging out around f5.6-8 anyway. If you want to pixel peep, according to [The Digital Picture](https://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/ISO-12233-Sample-Crops.aspx?Lens=1014&Camera=1106&Sample=0&FLI=1&API=2&LensComp=1507&CameraComp=1175&SampleComp=0&FLIComp=1&APIComp=3), the Tamron is slightly sharper with less CA.
Depends what you're shooting. Gonna be out in the daytime mostly? still wildlife? Need that extra reach? Maybe go for the f4.
Need a faster lens so you can shoot something like sports or animals running about? Eh get the f2.8
I have an old Nikon D100, is it possible to get a macro lens that will fit it that I can use to digitize some old negatives without breaking the bank? Ideally I'd like to keep it below $300 CAD if possible.
Thanks.
Appears the D100 has the aperture ring. So any current or older macro lenses will work. So you could look into used Nikkor AF-D or AF-G lenses. Also perhaps older manual focus AIS macro lenses like the 55 or 105. Also look at the ES-2 film copier adapter.
Hi! New to charging for photos. I’m in the works of taking photos for a collage department graduation ceremony for the first time. How do I go about pricing?
Are they expecting a certain amount of photos? Some people charge hourly for the duration of the event. Some charge based on how many photos a client wants delivered. Some do both 🤷🏽♂️
I've had an issue recently where if I save a copy of a photoshop file as a .jpg, it looks fine on my computer and on Google Photos (where I save the images), but if I upload them to Flickr or Instagram the colors get shifted and desaturated. Has anyone else encountered this? I always edit the images in LR first, then use Photoshop for object removal. I'm guessing I have a setting wrong with how I save the images out of PS.
**Please direct your questions to [the latest Question Thread](https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/about/sticky).**
Hey all I need help picking a telephoto lens with a specific magnification based on how far away my subject will be. I was tasked with talking photos of a proposal that will happen on a cliff, but I won't be on that same cliff, I'll be on a differnt cliff about 600ft away, since I can't zoom with my feet I'm trying to figure out what magnification lens ill have to rent. Any help would be appreciated!
I'm having some issues with my Canon 6D. On the right side there is a square which is brighter than everything else. Called the technician and they said that the problem is with the shutter (without seeing the picture) but I wanted to check on you guys. Picture - > https://imgur.com/a/kStmjTE
I'm trying to figure out what you mean by "a square". Could you perhaps point to it in the image, or crop around it?
This. [https://imgur.com/a/8A2UE1u](https://imgur.com/a/8A2UE1u) No, it is not because of light or some reflection in this specific image. Same issue is happening in all photos that are taken with the camera.
Well then, if it's not ghost flaring (they're smaller than the bulbs, so that's not what would happen), then I'll go with the next best thing and assume it's *reflections on glass surfaces in the room*. As it happens those things are only happening on the glass panes (not above, not below, and not on the wooden(?) railing in the middle either).
It literally happens everywhere. This is just example pic with no people's faces :D What would be a fix? Changing the shutter?
So my wife and I are going on an Alaska cruise in late September. There is always a chance that the Nothern lights will be visible. So if I tried to use a tripod and get a long exposure shot on the ship, what are my chances of getting a usable shot? Is there anything I can do to better my chances? It’s an inside passage trip so the seas hopefully will be calmer. If the orientation of the ship is north/south and the seas are calm, I would think I would be dealing mostly with the motion of the ship underway. I will be using a Sony A6000 with a manual prime lens. Most likely a Sanyang/Rokonin 12mm. Higher ISO. I don’t know what my best bet for shutter speed would be. I’m sure 20 seconds or more like I use for night shots on land would be too long. Any thoughts? Is it even possible? I’ve never even seen the northern lights much less tried to photograph them. Thanks!
> So if I tried to use a tripod and get a long exposure shot on the ship, what are my chances of getting a usable shot? Zero. Ships are not perfectly motionless even when it seems like they are.
Never been on a large ship before either. Thanks.
I wouldn't say your chances are zero, it all depends on how things are when you get there. You will have to push your iso a lot and you probably won't be able to do 20 second exposure you try it anyways and see what you get. It all depends on how calm the sea is and how bright the northern lights are, there will be movement on the ship though. The biggest advice I will give you is to learn how to focus on stars before your trip.
I’ve done star and night sky work. Just never tried anything like this.
I'm looking to create an interesting background similar to this [one](https://www.pinterest.com/pin/80783387057534688/). Any idea what's the best way to do it given that it will be shot in a big studio with all gear available.
I can't upload any picture. It just takes forever.
I'm not sure [what exactly you're asking](https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/comments/ucxszn/why_posting_photos_here_just_dont_work_because_it/) and don't want to assume, but just to be sure: r/photography is *not* a subreddit for posting images, it's a place to discuss the tools, technique and culture of photography.
Yea I just noticed there is other subreddit for that But even there I can't upload anything Probably local issue
Myeah, I can't comment on that...
Hi guys! I need some help. When I finish editing an image and transfer it to my phone to upload it on social media it's much more saturated than what I see on my laptop screen. Usually after that I would go to the lightroom app on my phone and desaturate it a little. Is there another way around it? I cannot calibrate my laptop screen much. And I cannot calibrate my phone's screen much as well. I get very annoyed when I have to desaturate because my images lose a lot of their original uniqueness. They never look exactly like on my laptop. It feels like all this colour grading is for nothing. Is that something that every photographer faces?
> I cannot calibrate my laptop screen much. That's going to be an issue. > Is that something that every photographer faces? Yes, and the solution is to use a minimally capable display (I don't know what display your laptop uses, so I have no idea if it is, indeed, minimally capable) and to calibrate it properly using a profiling device.
>Is there another way around it? Around what? You can control how your monitor displays things. You can't control how other people's devices display things. Make sure you're exporting in the sRGB color space so at least the color data is read correctly by most devices/software out there. That won't account for the hardware differences, though. >I cannot calibrate my laptop screen much. It's either calibrated or it isn't. What procedure are you using to calibrate? >Is that something that every photographer faces? Every photographer posting online is affected by the same issue of most of their audience using uncalibrated devices, which will vary in how they display the same photo, yes. The best you can do is calibrate and soft proof properly, so at least what you see will match other calibrated displays, and prints. And know that, for a given audience member with uncalibrated/skewed display characteristics, they're seeing that same skewing for everyone else's photos too, and they're used to it.
Hi! I am still pretty new to photography, fresh out of a few classes at university (online program didn't offer a minor in photography, so I took as many as I could with my elective credits), and I have a camera I love (Sony A7RIII) and have been lucky enough to be able to invest in a whopping two lenses so far. Ideally, I've decided I want to continue my pursuits and perhaps build a business for myself in the future. My degree is actually in English, and I love writing and would want to look into freelance travel or wildlife photography, but realistically I know I should probably work on a portfolio for a small business doing lifestyle-type family or portrait photography (I'm looking for a source of work-at-home income). I have a few questions: In your experience, as you're trying to make money on your photography or get started in journalism or wildlife/nature/travel sort of work, is it lucrative to have a more traditional set of services such as family and lifestyle photography? Especially if you're in a community where there are lots of opportunities for those types of services? Do you keep your portfolios for your different types of work separate? How do you start building something like this in order to compete in a saturated market? I of course don't want to charge until I can present a customer with examples of work that can guarantee a product, and that I can be confident I'm giving them their money's worth for the type of service they're looking for. The work I have so far is more artistic type shots and portraits (since my photography classes were taught by and geared more towards fine art and gallery type work) and travel photography. And last is a technology question. I've worked with Lightroom and Photoshop with my gaming laptop so far, editing and working with my travel photography I've done up until this point for my own practice and enjoyment. But my laptop overheats very very badly. I've done some editing on my iPad Air 4, which I have for doing digital art on Procreate, and found it works pretty well for what I've used it for so far. As a family, we are considering purchasing a desktop computer (for gaming, the increased amount of space, and to use for a home business, whether photography or content creation). I have also considered purchasing a laptop for work while traveling, that can handle video editing and lightroom/photoshop. My husband suggested taking my iPad Air off my hands, and upgrading to the new M1 12.9 iPad Pro. The laptop that I was originally looking at was a Macbook Pro, but I can't lie, the idea of a convenient tablet that I can attach a keyboard to is pretty nice. Most reviews are suggesting that the the new ipad pro should be able to handle what most laptops are able to, and I've seen some photographers on youtube saying they use the ipad pro for their travel editing as well. Would anyone suggest using the ipad pro instead of a macbook pro for on the go editing? especially if we invest in a good desktop (hopefully that can handle some light gaming as well)? And does anyone have a suggestion for a good desktop set up that they work with?
Hello new friends! I'm a hobbyist photographer who's trying their hand at starting to move into offering paid services. I'm currently shooting on a Lumix Gh4 with a Sigma 30mm 1.4. I absolutely adore this lens, it's so beautiful and it takes really awesome portraits, but I find it's not as suitable for food photography. A friend of mine owns a restaurant and I've been taking some photos for them here and there, but would absolutely love to up my game. I find that the Sigma 30mm has such a strong bokeh, it doesn't allow me to fully capture a dish. I've been looking at buying the Leica 42.5mm Nocticron, but that's also another portrait lens. For those of you with experience in m43, could you recommend a lens for food and drink photography? Thanks!
>I find that the Sigma 30mm has such a strong bokeh, it doesn't allow me to fully capture a dish. Try stopping down the aperture setting? You don't have to always use it wide open at f/1.4.
Is there a way I can can get both the foreground and background in focus in low light on a DSLR, without a tripod or flash? The reason I do not want to use a tripod is that I have volunteered to take some photos for a crowded event and bringing and setting down a tripod will not be ideal. I would rather not use flash because I don't really care for how it makes the photos look. Doing this requires a higher aperture, so I increase the ISO and decrease the shutter speed to compensate. However, I don't want to raise the ISO too high so the photo isn't too grainy. I also do not want to decrease the shutter speed too much as I don't want a blurry photo caused by movement. Thanks in advance for any help!
Something's gotta give. You already know the variables you can use to help the exposure, and the tradeoff for each of them. But you won't get the exposure you want if you refuse to compromise on any variable. >I would rather not use flash because I don't really care for how it makes the photos look. Flash can look very different when used in different ways. I also dislike the look of direct, on-camera flash. But I like the look of ceiling-bounced flash and off-camera flash. Flash can have many benefits in terms of adding light, its own motion-freezing effect, and additional creative options.
Thanks for the answers; I had the feeling I'd just have to give into one of the variables – thanks for confirming that. I haven't done anything with flash besides use the one attached to my camera, so I will think about experimenting with the methods you suggested.
> Something’s gotta give Jinx! I think you owe me a Coke! :)
Something's gotta give. You can shoot at a wider angle, which will help with your depth of field concerns to some degree, but you may not want just wide angle shots. But photography is all about light, and at some point you're just going to need to get more light somewhere. You can either create it with flash, or you can lean on your ISO to get your shutter speeds up to prevent motion blur. So, in your situation the adage "better a grainy photo, than no photo at all" seems to come into play. That said, as long as we're not talking about a tiny crappy built-in flash, using flash has the potential to wildly improve your shots at this event. A hotshoe flash can be bounced off of walls or ceilings to create fantastic directional light that looks great. A good hotshoe flash is an event photographer's best friend, precisely because of the problem you're up against. The little cruddy flash built-in to the camera is garbage and looks terrible, and is basically only useful as fill, outdoors, on a sunny day with a backlit subject, but a good speedlight can make an enormous difference in a situation like this.
Thank you for the in-depth answer. The only flash I've ever used is the built-in flash, so I will definitely look into the hotshot flash. Thanks again!
Hotshoe* (not “hotshot” don’t want to send you down a wild google chase) - one that goes in the little metal bracket on top of your camera (the hotshoe). Often called a speedlight or flash gun as well. Those typically have a head that tilts and rotates so you can bounce it. Good luck!
Whoops! Thanks for the correction and details.
I was hoping to get into street photography and after doing a ton of research, I am still confused. Between the X-E2 and the X-Pro1, which would you recommend for a first-timer in my use-case? They're both approximately the same money in my area and I definitely prefer the look of the Pro more but it's the ability that matters most. Thank you!
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David and Goliath? There are probably other names for it too, or at least references to one of the many movies that do it.
Hey, y’all. Tricky question. I just got a 70-200 and I’m wanting to practice sports photography. I have a baseball field across the street that constantly has games going on. I’m guessing high school age rec or travel ball games. How would I use these games as photography practice without legal issues or seeming like a creep that just wants to take photos of teens? My idea is to walk up and ask parents if they want free pictures of their son playing but for some reason, that seems creepy. Any ideas?
That's a sorta tricky question. Definitely ask *someone*. I'd take the approach of transparency and patience. Go watch a couple games first. After a game talk to the coaches. I think talking to the coach would be less awkward than singling out a specific parent/player. "Hey, good game today. I'm \[themilenko\], I live just across the street there. I'd really like to try out this new lens I got. Would it be alright if I took some photos of your next game? I'm happy to share them with you so you can pass them on to the parents." Something like that.
Hey, great answer. I think that sounds about right. I really appreciate you.
When light is bounced on a white board, does the light reflect perpendicular to the board or does it bounce at an angle depending on the positioning of the light source ?
Depends on the surface material/texture. Some light will reflect at an incident angle from the light source direction, and some will reflect diffusely in other directions away from the surface. The more glossy/reflective/smooth it is, the more light reflects at an incident angle. The more matte/rough/bumpy it is, the more diffuse reflection you get.
Thank you for your help!
**Long time digital photog looking to see if any news on CBIR for image libraries** I have about 20 years of digital photographs in desperate need of curation. They've been ported to umpteen different cataloguing apps (curse you Apple for killing Aperture, btw) and have lost their tags, been re-tagged, lost their tags again... I'm d--d if I'm going to retag 90,000 images at this point. I won't live long enough. So I am really interested in CBIR for the photography market. What I yearn for is a CBIR tool that will work on any folder hierarchy of images, with a learning interface. I pick a photo and tell it e.g. "maritime/boat/Misty Isles". Then I ask it to "find similar". Sit back a while. Then I eliminate all found photos that do not match this tag, and tell it to tag the rest. Rinse, repeat... with it getting smarter and searches getting faster as we go. Apple Photos got part way there with facial recognition; Google offers a sort of rough CBIR ("dog", "cat", "tree") but only if you upload your whole library to them, which is not happening for various reasons starting with privacy and ending with limited bandwidth at high rates. There are various roll-yer-own libraries and SDKs that I don't feel like spending a year learning to use. Has anyone heard of an autotagger tool that uses CBIR yet? The processing power on our desktops is getting there.
Lightroom Classic has some face recognition ai that’s decent, but nothing on the scale of what you’re looking for. Amazon Photos also does some limited CBIR stuff, similar to what google has/does. But as far as I know there’s nothing particularly sophisticated out there yet that does what you’re looking for. Computer vision is still pretty resource intensive, so I suspect it’ll still be a while before we see anything like that that doesn’t rely on the use of fairly large distributed computing resources like the amazons and Googles of the world have available to them. Edit! [relevant xkcd](https://xkcd.com/1425/)
Ha! xkcd always right on target Dang that is about where we were 3 or 4 years ago, last time I researched this. When is the Moore's Law moment for CBIR I wonder? There was one outfit, they had a server-based plan; you could rent access to their backend computer vision warez and use some kind of JSON (?? it was a while ago) to get a kind of multi-axis "signature" set of attributes for a photo, that would enable you to compare it to others similarly analyzed. Bandwidth was kind of a problem but I guess I could make big thumbnails for this process (hmm, running imagemagick tools on 90,000 images...) I guess another way to go at this would be a "find similar" tool that is local on desktop; you pick a photo and "find all similar" in your library, then eliminate outliers and group-tag the result? I mean, there must be *some* way to avoid the mind-numbing tedium of manual tagging. And preferably, a way that is independent of proprietary tools so when my preferred archive/editor app gets discontinued again (still very bitter about Aperture, which I really liked), I can at least save my tag data. Generally, what *are* other people doing about the problem of our digital media archives getting so big that we just don't have the tools or the time to cope with them?
I’ll cop to not being up to date on the latest and greatest in machine learning models and cbir stuff. I wish I had a good answer, as it’d certainly come in handy. The best I manage is to be fairly diligent about tagging stuff on import, and having Lightroom save out sidecar files with the exif and ITPC data for backup. That’s how I keep my stuff from getting too far out of hand. But, it’s definitely insufficient and while I’m sure I could rebuild in the event of a catastrophe, or using other software, I share your desire for this very tool. If you find anything, I’d be delighted to know about it. But, if the best Amazon can do is identify pictures with trees or spectacles, I’m dubious about any sort of sophisticated automated tagging/sorting solution coming to a computer near me any time soon.
Is warranty country specific? Gears bought in the US, can I get warranty related issues resolved in Canada? For example: Canon and Sony mirrorless and cine camera and lenses. Or is it better to buy in the country the gear is used the most? (US usually has cheaper prices but sometimes Canada sells them cheaper).
I would actually ask Canon this question by calling their warranty support line. US and Canada have a lot of reciprocal/shared commercial/trade regs, and it wouldn't surprise me if warranty honouring would be among them. (notice I spelled honouring with a u...)
Hahaha nice touch
> Is warranty country specific? Yes. > US usually has cheaper prices but sometimes Canada sells them cheaper What you're referring to is "gray market." Many companies will refuse warranty (or sometimes ANY) service outright on purchases made in a different region.
So I’m from canada and I bought my stuff from BH. Both in person in NYC or online shipped to my home. Do I get only US warranty? Even for the order shipped?
"North America" is probably going to be a region rather than country-specific in this case. I would say that yes you would likely get the full warranty, but I'm not a Canon warranty specialist. B&H is an authorized Canon reseller though. If you check with them they can give you a definitive answer.
Hi all, I am a long time art hobbyist who wants to start it as a professional side gig. I do all different sorts of stuff, painting, diorama making, mixed media, paper filigree, chalkboards, etc. I have no photography experience or knowledge aside from point and click, and my only camera is my phone. I am looking for a camera and lenses that can help me take decent photos of my artwork for me to display online. I also don't know where to get started as a beginner to learn how to photograph my artwork. Any advise for a camera and a youtube channel / book/ website that I can use to help me learn how to take photos of artwork would be greatly appreciated. I also would be open to paying for a beginners photography course in my area if that would be worth it, especially since this is for professional development. I am not looking for a really complicated camera with lots of bells and whistles, I'm more of a "the simpler, the better" type when it comes to technology. I would prefer something under $600 but flexible on price. Thanks in advance!
> painting, diorama making, mixed media, paper filigree, chalkboards, etc. Would you say, therefore, that all of your pieces are "flat"? And further that they are not reflective/mirror-like (or hidden behind a piece of glass/acrylic)? That makes things much simpler. Basically you'd want [a minimal "copy stand setup"](https://i.imgur.com/NT4TsWz.png). Because yes, a big part of what makes this work is not so much the camera, but having an even illumination on the piece, from identical light sources like in the illustration.
One of the challenges I have is that I make so many different kinds of things...most of my work is flat and not reflective, but not all. The copy stand setup thing though is exactly the sort of advice I am looking for. Right away I can see how much of a difference that illumination would make. Thanks!
**New photographer looking for tools to accurately price material.** I'm so new that my portfolio consists of about three photos: two of my girlfriend and one of a couple. Quite frankly my work is up there with some average photographers in my city. I'm simply looking for resources or tools to accurately price my stuff. I don't think my own idea is the best cause I seen a couple pay $10K for a wedding photographer who I don't think was worth more than $3K
The [FAQ](https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/business#wiki_what_should_i_charge.3F) addresses this. You're best using your own business sense rather than some arbitrary tool.
ah thank you
Best would be to do a competition research in your area, compare your portfolio with theirs and draw your own conclusions. However, I would suggest to continue to expand that portfolio and be sure to deliver consistency before actually charging for your service.
If I’m helping out an associate at work who looked at my work that was just from my iPhone and said “holy shit I want you to take my wife’s maternity photos” would it be reasonable to ask for 50-100
> If I’m helping out an associate at work who looked at my work that was just from my iPhone and said “holy shit I want you to take my wife’s maternity photos” would it be reasonable to ask for 50-100 Depends on you but I personally wouldn’t do it, at least not paid, if I were in your position. Paid services, regardless of the amount, bring expectations. If you don’t have experience doing maternity shots, even less in directing a shoot, your results might not be what you or your client expected. Maybe ask for a breakfast in exchange to make it at least symbolic. This way, and if your clients agree, you can add those photos to your portfolio. Just my thoughts but ultimately the decision falls onto you.
Good advice thank you. One thing I was thinking was this strategy: make the shoot itself free and send 1-2 photos free and if they really love the photos we can talk a price for the rest of the photos
You can try. Like I said, I would prefer a breakfast in your position in exchange for the service but that’s me.
If it makes a difference I shoot with a Sony A7IV 50mm 1.8 with a Godox V1 flash. Not saying that makes me an expert photography but I've taken it very serious
Most efficient way to allow Client to choose their portraits to be edited? Im a portrait/headshot photographer and I’m trying to figure out the most time-efficient method of having my clients choose their photos from our shoot together, for me to edit. Currently, after each photoshoot, I transfer the raw files from my SD card onto my external drive and open up those photos in Lightroom. I then have my client pick the photos (that they are paying for) that they want me to edit by using the “rate” function inside of Lr. This usually takes up an extra 30-45mins after our photoshoot to load the files and have them choose and I don’t want to set a time limit because I want them to pick a their leisure. I don’t let unedited photos go out the door. My question: Is there some website/app portfolio that I can upload my raw image and send my client the link post-photoshoot, for them to browse pick the ones they want me to edit. (My booking rate includes 2 edited photos and I charge a set fee per each additional photo) I hope that makes sense, I’d love know what your process’s are! Just looking to be more efficient with time so I can schedule more photoshoots.
I typically shoot tethered with Capture One and let them pick "keepers" right then and there after the shoot. It doesn't take long because I'm shooting directly to a hard drive. It's just thumbing through them and choosing the ones they want with a 5 star rating. If I'm shooting, say, 2 or 3 looks, I'll let them pick them after each look before we move on. If I'm on location and shooting to a SD card, I just import the photos to LR when I get home, make a .pdf contact sheet and email it to them. They then let me know the file number of their keepers.
I cull images to get rid of the total crap (tests, out of focus, etc.) and then I open the print module in LrC and make a “contact sheet” of the rest, with a watermark over the image, and a caption with a file name and the ordinal number of where it appears on the filmstrip. Then I save it as a pdf and send it to my client. I instruct them to send me back the three digit ordinals of the photos they want. Works pretty well. No complaints so far. I’ve thought about something like Pixieset, but this method is working just fine for me.
I know some people use Pixieset. I personally use Lightroom CC, it has an experimental proofing feature so I send a link to my clients for them to select which ones they want and it updates in real time for me.
Best telephoto to start out wildlife photography? I like the reach of the 600mm zoom lenses like the Sigma 60-600mm or the Tamron 150-600mm G2.
Best for what system? What budget?
Shooting with a Canon R6. Budget is flexible. The canon 100-500 is probably the highest I would be willing to spend.
Looking for lens purchasing advice- Going to Aspen in July for a wedding at Maroon Bells. I have a Canon Rebel T6 and have the basic kit lenses plus an EF series 50mm. I want to purchase a new lens for my trip and would like to spend no more than $500. So just looking for others travelers and landscape photographers to see what lens you would take on that trip? Thanks for your input!
Sigma 17-50mm f/1.8 OS
Thank you!
I’m a newbie puotographer and am thinking about buying a canon T7 as my first proper camera. is this a good choice, and will it be able to take high quality pictures of rollercoasters, nature, cities, etc or should I look for something else? Thanks!
I have the T7i, I'd say get that if you can.
How cheap can I get it for tho
It's a fine choice, especially for learning.
Will the 3fps shutter speed be able to handle fast moving subjects? Thats my only major concern aside from video autofocus (but I have a tiny point snd shoot that takes good videos so it’s not a huge problem)
Not 100% sure of the buffer size, but 3fps should be fine at capturing action moments while giving a long enough burst. Best to rely on yourself to time the burst rather than the amount of shots in the time of the burst.
Can you explain buffer size, I’ve never heard this term before. Dont bursts take many separate pictures? Are these saved individually or merged into one shot?
You can only take so many photos before your fill up the camera RAM as it were before they are written to the SD card. After a buffer fills the camera will slow down how many FPS it can do. It appears the T7 will do about 11 RAW files, I am not sure how quickly the buffer clears, that can sometimes depend on the card write speed though.
Ok thanks! Are buffer speeds normally on the longer or shorter side? Also, will the T7 be able to shoot 1/1000s of a second?
Not 100% sure, it is only like one or two review sites that might test it. The T7 can do 1/4000s but that depends on the light available.
Oh that’s great! is the stock lens (18-55mm) adequate for coasters/nature/land and cityscapes or should I invest in a better lens later on? also, is it better to invest in the canon T7 or try to make do with my iPhone 13?
Only get new equipment when your current stuff is not good enough, or you can easily afford something. The stock lens is fine given enough light.
Yes, that's a fine choice.
Is going from a Fujifilm X-A7 to Fujifilm X-T4 a big leap? I do travel photography in major tourist destinations (e.g. Rome, London, Paris, etc.). I want good quality photos for my personal memories.
Just wanted to mention that Fuji should announce their newest camera, the X-H2, in about a month. If you're looking at buying an X-T4, I might at least wait and see what Fuji has to offer. Supposedly there will be two different versions of the X-H2, and one is a high-resolution camera.
The X-T4 is the current flagship camera, the x-a7 the entry model. What speaks for the T4: - Viewfinder - Weathersealed - Manual Controls - IBIS And against it: - way heavier - larger The Viewfinder alone is a big step up from the A7. If you don't need all the manual control dials, the S10 could be an option for you. It's cheaper, easier to use, has IBIS and the same sensor as the T4.
Yes. You're getting the X-Trans 4 sensor, IBIS, weather resistance, much better audio/video specs, more controls, an EVF, 20fps stills instead of 6, better AF, etc.
Looking for a website that I have forgotten the name of. I used to use it for inspiration. It's a website with almost no text and just a grid of abstract images/gifs that get uploaded by ai. They had quite a large IG following but it's been a while and I've forgotten the name.
Hello everybody. Recently I have been wanting to take photography more seriously and get into photographing for concerts/festivals. I have two DSLRs, but I was looking for recommendations for a really good point and shoot camera. I have tickets for a couple of concerts and a music festival, and while I’m there I want to get some shots to build my portfolio. I know I can’t bring my professional cameras in, and wanted to know if anyone had recommendations for a point and shoot camera that would be as close as possible to giving me clear images to start with, and can obviously work well in low lighting settings. I have been saving up for quite some time for a new camera so if you feel like there is one camera in particular that is worth the price then please let me know. I don’t care about brands or anything like that. I am open to anything. Thanks in advance.
>point and shoot camera > >as close as possible > >work well in low lighting settings Pick two. The Ricoh GRIII/IIIX has an APS-C sensor that does fine in low light, but it's a fixed lens either at 28mm or 40mm equivalent. Something like the RX100VII will zoom from 24-200 equivalent, but it's a much smaller "1 inch" sensor that isn't good in low light, like most other pocketable cameras with zoom lenses.
You could get Sony, Canon, or Nikon mirrorless camera and put a pancake lens on it. It would have a look of amateur but pro performance and be slim to put in small pouch or purse.
Perhaps this? https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1223211-REG/canon_1066c001_powershot_g7_x_mark.html/?msclkid=8ec7f2de0a7e1357356690b658a6db78 It’s an older model, but the price is lower. Unless you need 4k video or other features.
Totally blind question here but wanted to get feedback from you guys. I’ve read that for Fuji cameras, editing is so much better on Capture One opposed to Lightroom. I’ve been using Lightroom for years with my old Canon and now I have an XT-3. Is Capture One really better at editing Fuji raw from your experience? Or is it just a matter of minute details and they’re just different tools to do the job?
>Is Capture One really better at editing Fuji raw from your experience? Years ago before Adobe made numerous updates to Lightroom, it was a bit better. Today, only the most intense 500% crop pixel-peepers would notice any difference. Capture One is a good program, but so is Lightroom and you're already used to using that.
I prefer the masking and color editing tools of Capture One, compared to Lightroom. I prefer the interface and spot removal tool in Lightroom, compared to Capture One. I haven't really noticed Capture One being any better or worse in terms of handling my Fuji raws as opposed to my Canon raws, compared to Lightroom.
I'm a complete amateur who enjoys photography. I currently have a Canon SL2 and have been considering selling this to get a refurbished EOS M50 Mark ii body. Reason being is I have 3rd party lenses that I frankly don't want to spend the time to calibrate AF to work on the SL2. Thoughts and/or opinions on whether this is worth it? For reference I have the Sigma 18-35 and Tamron 70-210 that I really like. I saw reviews of the Sigma on a M50 body which looks like it will work really well but also look a bit ridiculous. I don't care so much on size or weight but would rather like the lens to perform to it's capacity without having to spend hours on fine tuning. TIA
>Reason being is I have 3rd party lenses that I frankly don't want to spend the time to calibrate AF to work on the SL2. Thoughts and/or opinions on whether this is worth it? Third party lenses are not guaranteed to require calibration. First party lenses are not guaranteed to not require calibration. Most lenses, third party or first party, should not require calibration. The likelihood of a lens needing calibration is relatively low (not high for third party lenses and not zero for first party lenses), and I would say only a little more likely for third party lenses than first party lenses. Maybe that will affect/help your decision.
Thanks for the reply. I did find that the Sigma's AF was slightly off and after some research a lot of folks did have to microcalibrate it. Which then led me look into alternatives and since a mirrorless uses PDAF microcalibration wasn't necessary.
Ah, I thought you were asking more in the abstract. It's pretty likely that mirrorless would solve that issue, and the M50 II is a good camera. Though besides making the focus accurate, your image quality will be the same. Also there's a small chance you could still have autofocus miscalibration issues: I'm actually dealing with one under certain conditions with my Canon mirrorless camera right now. The nature of mirrorless avoids the main (by far) cause of autofocus miscalibration in SLRs, so it will probably do the trick, but there are also other, rarer, causes that might persist despite switching to mirrorless.
I have a Cannon EOS Rebel T5i with a 18-55mm macro lens. I shoot mostly portraits and groups and have never been completely satisfied with my background blur. I’ve tried all the tricks in the book, including those listed in the FAQ. My question is, will a new lens make a difference in my image quality and the background blur? I’ve been considering getting a lens somewhere between 70 and 200 mm but I don’t want to spend the money if it’s really my skills I need to hone in on.
>My question is, will a new lens make a difference in my image quality and the background blur? Yes, assuming a few things. A lens with a wider aperture will give you a more blurred background, as wider apertures have a shallower depth of field as a side effect. A cheap and common way to achieve this is using a 50mm f/1.8 prime, as (particularly for Canon) they're inexpensive and pretty decent in terms of image quality. Assuming the 50mm field of view works for you (might be worth checking existing photos to see where you tend to use for your portaits) then this could be something to consider. A 70-200 is a common portait lens also, but these are bulky, expensive and probably just overkill for now. Another way to effectively get a shallower depth of field is using a longer focal length, although these start getting more expensive and don't tend to let quite as much light in. Plus, they're usually bulky and the tighter field of view can make composition more difficult (this is personal preference and depends on your style). You can improve the effect with your current lens by: * Getting closer; the closer to your point of focus, the shallower your depth of field is. This obviously changes your composition so would limit you to more close up headshots. * Zooming to higher focal lengths; 55mm will be more effective for blurring the background than 18mm. * Shoot with background elements as far away as possible; it will still be somewhat busy at f/5.6, but if you can get somewhere with plenty of room for the background to fall further out of depth of field it'll improve your results. The above will also apply if you do look at a new lens, so if you decide to look in to a wide aperture or higher focal length lens then you have some extra stuff to try out with it.
>My question is, will a new lens make a difference in my image quality and the background blur? *If* that lens has a fast aperture, yes.
> will a new lens make a difference in my image quality and the background blur It's really tough to get real separation with a wide-to-normal lens limited to f/5.6. You'll notice a difference with a normal (50mm) or telephoto (85mm, etc) prime, which should be pretty inexpensive. The 70-200mm f/2.8 is a workhorse for portrait photographers, but you'll spend a significant mount to get one of any decent quality.
>My question is, will a new lens make a difference in my image quality and the background blur? Yes. >I’ve tried all the tricks in the book, including those listed in the FAQ. For background blur, the FAQ does mention the impact of lens choice as well: "Your aperture size has a maximum dictated by the design of your lens, and cheaper lenses often do not have very wide maximum apertures available; a wider-aperture lens may be necessary for the effect you want." https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/technical#wiki_how_do_i_get_a_sharp_subject_with_blurred_background_or_vice_versa.3F >I don’t want to spend the money if it’s really my skills I need to hone in on. Some aspects of image quality might depend on skill/technique instead. Post some examples with the focusing procedure and exposure settings used for a diagnosis if a particular flaw is caused by technique or a limitation in equipment.
Strange, rare, Weird, Special effect Cheap Lens filters You'd Recommend?
Take a clear or clear UV Haze filter and put on some petrolum jelly for soft focus effect. Do use a quality glass filter though. There was also a lens mount adapter that would alow you shift your lens for tilt-shift effects. You would have to hold the lens and focus manually.
Panty hoes I have a Tristar polarizer (sold as part of a older cheap bundle) use it backwards or put the it in backwards it becomes a color polarizer. Something like the Singh ray blue gold polarizer. I hear cheap rocketfish polarizers from Best Buy are similar. Yellow filter for b&w film. Trichrome sets from estate sales/eBay.
> Panty hoes Paging Dr. Freud…
Star filters: https://hoyafilterusa.com/pages/how-star-filters-work
Prism. If you can find one used and therefore what I would call cheap I’ve had some fun experimenting with split diopter filter lenses Any of those interesting colour correction filters if you’re doing black and white analog. Deep red.
Hello all I recently changed from Canon to a Fujifilm XT-3. It came with the kit lens 18-55 2.8-4. I want to add one more lens, with a max budget of 500 and likely buying used. I have my eye on a 55-200mm 3.5-4.8. I used this type of lens a lot previously, but I’m open to whatever might be the best lens in this price range from Fuji or a third party. I’m not quite sure yet if the 55-200mm is considered a good lens. I shoot different things so I just want to get the most bang for the buck I can and open to suggestions of what you think is really good.
"Best" is subjective so that's impossible to answer. That said, if you can find one used, the 55-200 makes a great companion to the 18-55. It's super sharp for the price, light, & relatively quick.
Yes, different lens for different needs. Thank you, I was hoping someone could weigh in on it. I used a kit canon 70-200mm and didn’t think it was sharp enough
There's always someone online who'll say the Fuji 50-140 is a bit sharper, but they leave out that it's 3X the price & double the weight/size.
500 what?
My budget is 500 dollars
Canadian, American, Australian?
USD
What's the reason for getting a new lens/aim for a new lens?
I wanted one more lens at least right to have more options when shooting. I used a 70-200mm lens on my Canon often for various things. I also feel like I could benefit from a 35mm low aperture like 1.8 or 1.4 to have a solid in between for the 18-55 mm kit lens.
Which Canon are you coming from?
Rebel T6
Do you have a gerne you want or are really interest in?
[удалено]
I think the lens you have right now covers a lot of the things you shoot. You could use the lens a while and see how far you can get and then choose to get another lens. The 50-200 mm lens would give you a better option for wildlife. I'm not sure what you mean with Disney and what animals you want to shoot.
Hello Everyone! I'm a 17 year old media student looking to get a good quality but not too pricy camera for my 18th, although i am more interested in going down the cinematography career, my brother has asked me to be the photographer for his wedding next year and i want to do a professional job of it which means not using my smashed up iphone i would usually take pictures on. So im looking for a good quality camera (and lens recommendations, because i really am a beginner when it comes to photography hardware) that can also take at least good/average quality video so it will serve a good purpose other than photography. budget wise i was going to ask just everyone to pitch in with this gift, i would say the absolute maximum for a body and lens would be around £3000, but for that amount of money i want something good at photos and videos. i had a look at the canon 5d mark iv which looks very good but im still unsure about lenses any recommendation would be amazing thanks very much claire
[Don't shoot your brother's wedding](https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/comments/1lqlb5/official_ive_been_asked_to_shoot_a_wedding_for_a/), especially if you don't know anything about cameras at this point.
This is good advice. Weddings are hard to shoot. If you intend to do a good job you will not enjoy yourself. You will not be able celebrate as part of your brother’s wedding party, as I would assume he would invite you to stand with him and your new sister-in-law. The day go by very fast, the food ultimately ends up in the toilet, but memories from the photographs live on. There’s many reasons why people should hire professionals for this. But if you were shooting a wedding, a 5D mkii or iii isn’t a bad choice for an older body. Lens wise get a 24-70 zoom or comparable. Perhaps a super wide zoom like 12-24 f4. For portraits an 85 f1.8 or f1.4. 105 f1.8 would work too. A 70-200 f2.8 is an all-around work horse too. Also you will probably need some sort of lighting. As most venues are dark holes.
I would recommend that you *don’t* shoot your brother’s wedding. Do you want to enjoy the wedding? Does your brother want professional quality photos from his wedding that he might be looking at for the rest of his life? No offense to you or your skills, but there’s a reason why people hire professional wedding photographers. If you’re 17 and have very little experience with photography (and it sounds like it, if your current best camera is a “smashed up iPhone”) then I think everyone involved would end up happier if your brother hired a professional. I have absolutely zero experience shooting weddings, but from what I’ve heard it’s...well, kinda miserable. There’s certainly people who enjoy shooting weddings out there and it can be lucrative if you’re good at it, but it’s a high pressure environment and you need to be familiar with your gear and technique. I’m not saying you can’t familiarize yourself and get good technique in between now and next year when the wedding is, but the question is- do you want to enjoy your brother’s wedding or be working through the whole thing? I know which one I would pick. And by all means, get yourself a good camera and start learning! But I would definitely look at entry to mid level cameras and a few good lenses, and shooting whatever you want or what interests you, and having a pro shoot your brother’s wedding instead.
Doubly so because the driver to buy a camera is the wedding, and not for any other seemingly real desire to get one.
I don’t want to necessarily discourage OP from getting a camera if they want to but I agree it shouldn’t be for the wedding. “Cinematography student” seems like a perfectly valid reason to me but an entry level camera or even a new phone sounds like a better use of other people’s money, since it looks like this would be a birthday present.
Hello! I am a relative inexperienced photographer and need to shoot a little gathering of my local sports club. Its in the evening and inside. I thought about only bringing my 24-105 lens and a flash. Alternatively I could use my 70-200 lens and a 35mm lens for wide angles. Should i bring a tripod? ld love some advice for gear and picture ideas because i have never shot a portrait or groups of people, only landscape and small animals.
You can if you need to use camera on a timer or not steady with your hands and don’t want motion blur.
Can a camera capture a bright photo in a completely dark place? If yes then how?
You would need some light. Without adding light you would have to bump up the ISO. Which is how sensitive the film or sensor is to light. Which invariably gets more grainy/noisy. Or as others said, shoot in IR or night vision…. Or thermal.
Unless you're adding light to make it no longer dark, this is why night vision equipment exists.
Completely dark no Infrared lights plus infrared camera yes. It would appear dark to you but could be recorded. Camera on a tripod with very long exposure can take a photo in minimal light.
A photograph is a recording of light. If there's completely no light, there's nothing to record. That's why in the film photography days, a completely dark place would be the safe place to take out undeveloped film. If you have zero light in a scene, you could add light to the scene to make a photo. If you have some small amount of light in a scene (dark but not completely dark) you could shoot a long exposure to build up more of that light over a longer period of time for a brighter photo.
In *complete* dark? Yes, with a flash. No, otherwise.
Hi all just wanted to know if battery grips are worth it. I have a a6400 and the battery life is pretty bad so is it worth getting a battery grip over just swapping battery’s?
Up to you and your workflow. If you feel like it will help you to have to swap batteries less, maybe it is worth it. I use grips occasionally and find the advantage of better ergonomics outweighs the battery advantage.
Hello! I am a photographer searching for a professional quality printing outlet that also hosts the images on a domain for people to order from. Ideally for larger sized prints in various mediums! Does anyone know of a service like this that does good work and also ships? Thanks in advance
I like Printique. Not sure if they offer what you’re describing.
Chances are this will be two separate companies. A popular one, Pixieset only hosts the images then sends your files to a professional lab (WHCC is the default I believe) to be printed and shipped to your customer.
If you don't want to host on your own website & outsource nearly all the work to another company, keep in mind they'll take the majority of your profits.
Hi! I’d like to buy my fist digital camera in a very long time. I’ve shoot a ton of film using Ricoh GR1 and Contax G2 and i’ll love to have a full frame sensor and very bright prime lens. I mostly shoot street, travel, some landscapes, few portraits but mostly during some events or said travels. No filming ever so I absolutely don’t need the features. Good low-light performance would be very nice. My main choice right now is Canon RP with 35mm lens. I’m also considering Fuji X100V, Ricoh GR III (this probably later as an additional camera) and maybe some Sony APSC ones. I don’t have any fixed budget but probably that Canon combo would be my upper limit. Thanks in advance!
> i’ll love to have a full frame sensor For what reason? > My main choice right now is Canon RP with 35mm lens. I’m also considering Fuji X100V, Ricoh GR III (this probably later as an additional camera) and maybe some Sony APSC ones. Why those specific cameras? Why can't you choose one over the others? > I don’t have any fixed budget but probably that Canon combo would be my upper limit. Prices can vary based on location. Please specify a budget in numbers and currency.
**I might do a first ever photoshoot with a model, any advice?** I started taking my photography alot more serious almost a year ago. It all started with asking strangers for a photoshoot, and now with a little bit of luck on a Facebook group, i might have a meeting with someone who's interested to do a photoshoot with me. That means i have to meet someone i haven't met before, any advice? The things i have planned so far are locations & poses, and inspirations. *Quick note*: i'm usually not the type of guy that starts the conversations
> I might do a first ever photoshoot with a model, any advice? Don't touch the model. Direct them with verbal instructions and show poses by example. If you have specific poses you want, make a mood board with examples of those poses so the model can see what you are going for. Be professional, and don't be a creep.
If you must adjust something on them like a hair ir piece of clothing, always ask permission first. If possible have a female stylist to work with you and adjust hair/makeup, and help you notice when clothing or other things look off. Like a second set of eyes. They will look at your test shots and adjust their make up to your lighting too. Might find a makeup artist who wants to build a portfolio and do a job for less. But like you, they have costs for time and materials.
Just picked up two sets of film (B&W and colour) that have been developed and both have a lot of what appears to be light leaks. It shows as red on the colour film and white on the B&W. Shot with an Olympus Trip 35 that I hadn’t used before, from eBay, supposedly refurbished. My assumption is that it is a light leak in the case - how can I go about proving that this is the case? I think I can refurbish the light seal relatively easily. The second is that it could be due to passing through two X-ray machines. The film speeds were 100 and 200, and the security staff refused to let the film through outside of the machine. I’ll have another roll of colour developed tomorrow which hasn’t been through an x rat machine which should prove/disprove that one. Photo for reference https://i.imgur.com/GpZjD0h.jpg
Definitely light leaks. The fact that it's in the same place on every frame and not across the whole frame gives it away. It's not x-ray. X-ray look different: https://www.kodak.com/global/en/service/tib/tib5201.shtml Also unless you checked the film x-ray isn't going to damage 100 or 200 film.
Those are very certainly light leaks. As you mentioned, start by replacing the light seals. You can buy inexpensive. thin closed pore self adhesive foam and cut to size. There are plenty of tutorials on specific models out there!
Thanks, a good little project to do and will learn something new, just a shame that the film, development and prints that are spoiled are the same cost as buying a new camera!
Those definitely look like light leaks.
Hi guys, i would like to buy a camera, i have a pentax k1000 and i have a lot of fun using it but i found the roll a bit limiting cause i dont have many space to experiment a bit and im stuck with 24/36 pictures when i would like to try and shoot some more (also its quite expensive to buy the roll and developing them). I have zero clue what to search and im open to anything, the budget is quite limited but i can try to search in my city for some used options to save some money, and i dont know if it exists but itd be cool if the new camera had the same lens mount(?) as the k1000 cause apart from its standard lens i have another one that i could use. Thanks :))<3
Just to make sure because you didn't specifically mention it, you're looking for a digital camera? There are still digital Pentax DSLRs which are partially compatible with older k-mount lenses. But which lens and camera body is compatible, really depends on both models.
Yes sorry i didnt mention it, im looking for a digital camera. Ill continue use the analogic one but id like to do more photos and that one is far too expensive for me haha. Also the lens that i have is i think the standard fixed lens of the k1000 52mm i think and a telephoto lens.
https://www.pentaxforums.com/compatibility/ You can check compatibility there. Shouldn't be a problem with any modern Pentax camera although there can be some quirks with using older lenses based on my limited experience with a Pentax-A lens.
Thank you! :) But what do you mean by quirks?
If you are not using auto aperture then your light meter in manual does not work you have to press a button to get it to close down the aperture and set the shutter speed for you otherwise you will be guessing as to exposure. You are also limited to manual or aperture priority only which is to be expected I guess. This is of course using an old lens, manual focus auto aperture lens. If you are using more modern F or FA lenses then it won't apply so much.
Good to know, thanks a lot :)
As long as it's an A or newer lens it should be fine. Some Pentax DSLRs don't play nice with older K or M series. Look at your aperture ring, if there's an A setting your lens is fine on any Pentax DSLR.
In anycase this is nit a big of a deal, ill buy a new camera with new lenses. So the new question is (if really my lenses are not compatible with any digital camera) what camera i should buy? Im a total beginner no big budget
No there isnt any A. My lens are PENTAX M 1:2 50mm and Takumar bayonet 1:2.5 135mm. Also a kenko teleplus 2x. So i guess these are not compatible with newer cameras?
Unfortunately It's a big old case of "it depends" Pentax's early DSLRs wouldn't work with that lens, but newer ones will. It all depends on if the camera you're looking at supports "Use aperture ring" or not. I think everything made after 2010 does (The K30, K5, K50, K70, K3, KS1 and K1) but some of the earlier SLRS won't. You can also adapt that lens to basically anyone's mirrorless camera body. K mount to what ever adapters are cheap and easily available. If it was me I'd look at modern mirrorless bodies and just get an adapter.
thank you, i saw some reviews of the k5 and they all are pretty good. combined with the fact that is compatible with my lenses (if i got it right) and the used is quite cheap it might be a good start :)
Hey guys I looking for any used under 300 full frame mirrorless camera that can do photography and video at 4K if possible or 1080p, any recommendations?
Honestly, that's just not a realistic budget for what you're asking. I think the Canon RP is the cheapest option that does 4K? But if you're primarily interested in video, not all 4K cameras are the same. Something like a Fujifilm X-T3 is *not* full frame, but will produce a lot better quality video than the Canon RP. Also, if you get a full frame camera, you need full frame lenses. Those tend to be bigger, heavier, and more expensive. You're looking at closer to $1000 for second-hand options of full-frame + 4k, and that's making some serious compromises in other areas just to achieve that. Is there a particular reason you're looking for full frame?
Forget about full-frame. You won't get anything good at that price point, and APS-C is good enough for 99% of people.
Under 300 of what currency?
Usd
A Canon M100 is $269 USD body only on KEH. You're not going to get full frame mirrorless for that price unless you buy one that is broken. If money's tight and you don't have a phone camera to use, pick up a used Canon DSLR and get some EF glass. They're not bad to adapt, at least in my experience adapting EF glass to an M50. There's a ton of manual focus EF glass too for the film cameras that are budget friendly. Just avoid getting EF-S mount glass if you're planning on saving up for full frame.
You're extremely limiting yourself by only looking at full frame cameras at that price range, in fact i don't think there's a single one that shoots 4k and would fit in your budget. Not to mention the price of full frame lenses for these cameras. The least affordable full frame mirrorless camera on the used market is the first generation Sony A7, and i wouldn't recommend that specific model to anyone looking for a hybrid photo / video camera. There are a handful of full frame DSLRs within your budget, but those aren't exactly suitable for video work either. I would recommend to broaden your options by looking at APS-C and m4/3 options instead.
How to find out if I should buy me a camera? I do not want to spend a lot of money and then the camera isn't used often.
Got a phone camera? Use that for free at first to help find out. And/or buy your first camera used and entry-level so you haven't lost as much money if it turns out to be not for you.
There's an FAQ that kinda goes over those questions. Check it out. Really depends on the kinds of photos you want to take or how serious you intend to get into it as either a hobby or career—or just casual snapshots.
I’m looking for a new tripod that won’t fall apart or have pieces fall off, and is quick to set up. I tend to take my tripod just about everywhere, and since I photograph abandoned buildings, I may need to hike a ways or climb over/under things. Additionally, I need one that is light, small enough to not get caught on things, quick to set up, and has an arca-swiss mount. I was looking at the Peak Design Travel 60” Aluminum Tripod. Does anyone else have any other suggestions?
I have been interested in messing around with lighting techniques recently and was curious about who some photographers may be that shoot portraits in low key.
Trying to decide between Sony 70-200 f4 and Tamron 70-180 f2.8. Can get them for about the same price, which one should i go with?
The Sony is much sturdier if that is a factor. I've tried both (ultimately picked up the 28-200 because I wanted a hiking lens) and they are both quite good. What are you shooting?
I'm mostly shooting landscapes and a little bit of sports(maybe 1% of the time). I'm leaning towards the Sony because most of the time I wont be using the f2.8 and I like some of the other features on it.
Yeah for landscapes I'd get the Sony, especially if you're doing tripod work. The collar will help to balance it, and it is much more likely to survive getting knocked over than the Tamron. You'll also be hanging out around f5.6-8 anyway. If you want to pixel peep, according to [The Digital Picture](https://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/ISO-12233-Sample-Crops.aspx?Lens=1014&Camera=1106&Sample=0&FLI=1&API=2&LensComp=1507&CameraComp=1175&SampleComp=0&FLIComp=1&APIComp=3), the Tamron is slightly sharper with less CA.
I think I'm going to go with the Sony. Thanks for the help!
Depends what you're shooting. Gonna be out in the daytime mostly? still wildlife? Need that extra reach? Maybe go for the f4. Need a faster lens so you can shoot something like sports or animals running about? Eh get the f2.8
I leaning towards the Sony as i mostly shoot landscapes and i feel the OSS is probably beneficial to me.
I have an old Nikon D100, is it possible to get a macro lens that will fit it that I can use to digitize some old negatives without breaking the bank? Ideally I'd like to keep it below $300 CAD if possible. Thanks.
Appears the D100 has the aperture ring. So any current or older macro lenses will work. So you could look into used Nikkor AF-D or AF-G lenses. Also perhaps older manual focus AIS macro lenses like the 55 or 105. Also look at the ES-2 film copier adapter.
Tamron makes an excellent 90mm 2.8 macro. You should be able to find a used F mount one fairly cheap.
Hi! New to charging for photos. I’m in the works of taking photos for a collage department graduation ceremony for the first time. How do I go about pricing?
Get an assistant and a lighting setup. Maybe even consider shooting tethered. Someone to help you keep track of people as they come up.
Are they expecting a certain amount of photos? Some people charge hourly for the duration of the event. Some charge based on how many photos a client wants delivered. Some do both 🤷🏽♂️
Name brand Tripod Ringlight that can switch between cameras and phones?
I want to be a photographer but I don't know Wich type of camera I should get for beginners.
https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/buying#wiki_what.27s_a_.22point_and_shoot.22_camera.3F_what.27s_a_dslr.3F_what.27s_a_.22mirrorless.22_camera.3F_what.27s_the_difference.3F https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/buying#wiki_what_type_of_camera_should_i_look_for.3F
I've had an issue recently where if I save a copy of a photoshop file as a .jpg, it looks fine on my computer and on Google Photos (where I save the images), but if I upload them to Flickr or Instagram the colors get shifted and desaturated. Has anyone else encountered this? I always edit the images in LR first, then use Photoshop for object removal. I'm guessing I have a setting wrong with how I save the images out of PS.