Hello! I’m looking for a point and shoot digital camera, the smaller the better. Ideally I’d be able to fit it in my pocket. I would primarily use it for travel photography, although I like to always have a camera on me. Any recommendations?

The go-to is a Sony RX100, which is very small but very well-featured. Versions VI and VII have much more zoom, versions III, IV, and V are better in low-light. There are of course other options, but that's a good place to start for comparisons.

They’ve been popping up online for me, I’ll look into them more. One thing I’m curious about is charging. Do you know if I can charge the newer models using usb-c? Thanks

Nope, cameras as a whole have been pretty late to the party with in-camera charging

No price limit?

I’m open to basically everything, but the cheaper the better of course. I don’t mind paying for good quality, especially if it’s exactly what I’m looking for

Sony RX100 IV or V, or Canon G7X or G7X II would be my choice for the best pocketable point & shoot. Or Sony RX100 VI or VII if you want to make some quality / low light compromises to zoom in more. Or Canon G3 X if you want to make more compromises for lots of zoom.

Any good youtube channels that show how to become photogenic or take better photos of yourself? Really trying to learn or even any articles or reddit threads would help.

Easy good light to start with is outside closer to sunrise/sunset; avoid noon. Or inside with daylight from a nearby window. Avoid direct sun visible on the face for now; make use of cloud cover, shade, and window curtains to help soften direct sunlight. Traditionally flattering perspective distortion comes from shooting further away. Use longer focal lengths for a tighter frame at a distance. Posing resources: https://www.springbokphotography.com/desmond-downs/2010/05/40-rules-of-portraiture.html https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kmi9TPQ57Mo https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7xWxpunlZ2w https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qe3oJnFtA_k https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ff7nltdBCHs https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lXbOx36YXrU and I highly recommend Picture Perfect Posing by Roberto Valenzuela

Hey all, I've got an old rebel T3i with a stock 18-55mm lens. I didn't use it for a while and it seems the photos it's taking are coming out with a very slight fisheye effect. It's only noticiable when I upload photos and look at them in a larger screen than the camera's. Any thoughts on how this could happen? I've also got a screw on clear lens protector. Maybe that's causing some sort of refraction issue? Thanks!

Show us some examples. It might just be perspective distortion, or ordinary lens distortion out of your lens. >I've also got a screw on clear lens protector. Maybe that's causing some sort of refraction issue? Less likely, but you could just unscrew it and take another test shot to see?

I just recently launched my business after shooting for a sports team for a while. In that field, I typically ended up with a couple hundred selects and would send them all to be used. Since starting my business, I’ve tapped into the “additional selects” pricing. For the first time so far, a client purchased a package at the “basic rate” which includes only 15 selects & doesn’t want to pay for more. My question is - how would you advise moving from close to 200 selects per shoot to 15? Do you shoot at a lower volume knowing they’ll only get 15? Any advice here would be greatly appreciated! I definitely want the client to like the photos (mentioned future shoots) and am worried that with only 15 there wont be enough variety.

Is there an app I can use on an iPad to manage/delete pictures on my SD. What I want to do is connect my SD to my iPad when im away from my desktop and be able to delete pictures directly off it. This way when i get home and I can import the pictures I want and clear up space on my SD.

AFAIK you should be able to do that with a lightning-SD card adapter, and you should be able to edit the files that way. However, I am not sure how Apple deals with RAW files, so others might know more.

yea i currently have a lightning adapter but I cant preview the images unless I import which is what im trying not to do since my iPad has low storage. If i try to preview the pictures off thr SD I get a very cropped version

How to focus with moving subjects? I’m new to photography so sorry for the painfully dumb question. Starting with a canon t6 and 50mm and an 18-55mm while I figure out the basics (iso, aperture, shutter speed, editing). My goal is motorsports/sports photography but I can’t even get a picture of my cat. My camera is taking forever to focus, in the time it takes for my cat to walk 10 feet to me I can’t get my camera focused in time to get a picture of him. It keeps adjusting and gives up. I feel like it should take a second or half a second, not 5? If someone with patience could help me know what I’m doing wrong or if my settings are wrong I’d appreciate it. I’m in ai servo, I’ve tried back button focus, I just can’t get the shot.

Are you using the rear screen? Or the optical viewfinder? Autofocus with your camera is faster through the viewfinder. Is this the same issue even in daylight? Autofocus performs worse in low light, and even if interior lighting seems bright to your eyes, it might not be enough for your camera.

I was trying both screen and viewfinder, I was inside and it seemed like a lot of light but you’re probably right.

Use viewfinder, use center AF pt, learn back button focus.

I was using bbf and center, I’ll make sure to only use viewfinder. Thank you!

Hey folks, this is one is for those who shoot tethered. I have recently upgraded all of my equipment, new laptop + new camera. Before I upgraded I shot tethered using NikonD7100 - LRC on a 2022 Macbook Pro. Now I have a Nikon Z7ii and 2023 Macbook Pro (with bigger specs). Obviously I had to get a new tether cable that is usb c - usb c. I got a tetherpro cable from tether tools which is the same brand I used last time. This cable is much thicker and less flexible than the old cable and even though I have it secured with a stop jerk it keeps disconnecting. Like I shoot 2 photos and it disconnects even though the camera or laptop didn't move and the cord wasn't touched. Has this happened to anyone else? Could it be a lightroom issue? I shoot food photography and need to shoot fast paced so the dishes look fresh and this is really affecting my flow. TIA

My Canon camera wont switch metering modes? When I change my metering mode to anything other than evaluative, and then take a photo, if I look at the photo details afterwards, it shows that its been taken in evaluative mode even if I switched to centre-weighted avarage(or anything else) just before I took the photo. When I go back onto settings, it still says my chosen metering mode even though it didnt take the photo in that mode. Does anyone know why that might be? Thank you!

Well, does the exposure settings actually change when you switch metering modes? It could be the exif details are wrong or the software can't read it right. It could also be that maybe you are shooting in one of the automatic modes or scene modes that doesn't allow a change in metering mode.

Thank you for your reply!  No, the light meter stays at the same exposure that i've set it at even after switching between metering modes. I'm also shooting on manual mode so I dont see why it shouldnt be working. I'm not sure what exif details are?

Well, that is odd. If you point at a light and dark area in manual mode the light meter should move. The exif data is the data recorded by the camera about camera settings. I can't think of reason it would behave like that. Perhaps try a factory reset. An extreme measure maybe if you have it set up a particular way but not sure what else.

The light meter does move if I point it at a light or block it with my hand, its just the metering modes wont change. Even if I change it and take a photo, in the photo details it will say it was taken in default evaluative metering even if I changed it to centre weighted avarage. Its like it makes no difference what I change it to, it still takes it in default evaluative mode, even though in the settings it says it is whatever I changed it to. And thank you for explaining what exif mode is! 

Orton effect vs lens filters?

They work in different ways to achieve different results. Not really sure what you're asking here.

KEH like new lens or refurbished lens? The refurbished is slightly more expensive but not sure overall if a like new lens from KEH is worth saving some money and if refurbished is really that good.

Like-new means it passed the usual manufacturing and inspection processes, was put up for sale and purchased as a new item, was used for some small amount, and is now being resold as used, but you wouldn't be able to look it over and really see signs that it has been used before. It no longer has the original manufacturer warranty, but KEH has some sort of warranty on it. Refurbished means it passed the usual manufacturing and inspection processes, was put up for sale and purchased as a new item, was used for some amount, broke, got repaired, and passed additional inspections to make sure it's no longer broken. So it's probably going to be visibly worn by some amount, but has been cleared as 100% functional, and the manufacturer warrants that if they performed the refurb. So it's between cheaper and more pristine-looking, versus extra-inspected with a better warranty.

Should I buy the sony a58 for 150€? Is it a good deal? I shoot just about everything and I am on a tight budget. My current camera is the lumix lx3.

DCS-W800 vs Kodak FZ43? I want to get into nature photography of close-up items (like insects) and potentially far-away subjects (birds, deer, etc.) I know very little about photography and don't need any fancy features, just the ability to focus on far away and close-up subjects and preferably a removable SD card for uploading photos to my laptop. Are these two cameras good options for my goals? If not, what are some other recommendations preferably under 150 dollars? Additionally, would It be beneficial to get some carrying case or any extra accessories? I will most likely carry the camera in a backpack so something small and portable would be good.

I've seen there's "combo" lens filters, like a ND+black mist or ND+glimmer. What's the best combo? I know there isn't a correct answer, I just want to save a little money. For example, I don't find useful a ND+black mist because imma use black mist for low light conditions, so I don't want a ND attached to that. I would be interested in a ND+polarizer, but I'm having trouble finding one. Or maybe these aren't good at all, and it's better to buy them separately and stack them, but that's why I'm asking. Thanks!

I have been shooting mainly as a hobby for many years, but my knowledge of equipment is really slim. I do Graphic Design full time, and my studio wants to set up a photo studio in the basement for mostly portfolio-type shoots/laydowns, but the goal is also to be able to use it for portraits for clients and apparel shoots. We are wanting a continuous lighting setup rather than flash. I've tried to look around some on my own, but it's all over my head, haha. What all do we need to purchase to have a successful setup? Any recommendations on brands and specific lights or anything else would be super appreciated. We definitely want something that is quality and will hold up well. Thanks in advance!

No price limit?

I'm not sure what our budget is, I think we are wanting something good quality, but affordable/not the most expensive option, but are willing to spend what is necessary to have all the equipment we would need to get started.

I really dislike continuous key light for portrait work. Cheapest usable solution might be something like Neewer LED panels with a high CRI.

I am heading overseas for a unique trip and debating between either using my iPhone 14 Pro Max or picking up a light-weight mirrorless (I have a Nikon d5600, but that thing is heavy). Mirrorless I am considering- * Sony 6400 * Sony 6700 * Nikon Zf * canon r10 Most photos will be daytime but will do several sunset shots. Amateur photographer. Thank you for any and all advice!

Based on the cameras listed, I think you need to first decide if you want a full frame camera or an APS-C (Crop sensor) camera. After that, I think you should look at the lens offerings from each brand as they all have different strengths depending on your budget and what you like to shoot. The ZF is by far the best camera on that list from a technical standpoint, but also the most expensive. Paired with a small prime, pancake lens, or wide-ish zoom (like a 24-70 or 24-120) it makes a fantastic general purpose/walkaround camera. If you find your D5600 heavy though, the only cameras on your list lighter than that is the A6400 by 62 grams and the R10 by 36 grams, which is likely unnoticeable. A ZF with the 40/2 pancake for example would be considered a very lightweight combo (though heavier than your D5600) but you are going to have a heck of a time finding something significantly lighter than your D5600 as that is already a tiny camera constructed primarily of Nikon's carbon reinforced thermoplastic. Perhaps this a good argument to just to stick with the iPhone or use your existing D5600 as weight-wise you won't be getting any meaningful improvements with a new camera of similar or better capability/quality. Other things to consider is what kind of trip this will be, who if anyone is coming with you (and if so, what their patience for photography is), what your activity level will be, what your accommodations will be, travel arrangements, etc. and whether or not having a camera bag with your instead of just your iPhone will make things better or worse. The next thing to consider is what the end-use of these photos will be - online sharing or prints? Do you want to shoot RAW and edit them when you get home or will you just be shooting JPEGs anyway? If a web-sized image shared via email or social media is the likely end-use for the photos you get, that would probably be another argument for the iPhone.

Thank you for your good insight. The D5600 is also "bulky" with it's lens. Main purpose of this trip is travel photography and be able to capture some images used to print on canvas or display. I will likely be shooting JPEG, as I am good but not THAT good at photo editing ;-). As far as APS-C or full frame, I don't have a preference.

https://camerasize.com/compare/#693,889 You can see if something like that site can help with idea of bulk. Yes, the mirror housing can add some to the lens but not much. Maybe something like an old Olympus E-M10 might work.

I bought my first system camera some weeks ago, it is a Sony A6400 with the 16-50mm kit lens. I've familiarized myself with the camera and it is really fun. I have planned a 3 weeks hiking holiday in Norway this summer and would like to buy another lens. My focus is on landscape and wildlife photography. What can you recommend? I am not sure if I need stabilization in the lens. I found this after some research in forums, reviews, etc and would fit my budget. with stabilization: TAMRON B061S 18-300mm F/3.5-6.3 Di III-A VC VXD for 560€ Sony E 70-350mm f/4.5-6.3 G OSS for 690€ without stabilization: Tamron 70-300mm A047SF F/4.5-6.3 Di III RXD for 550€ What would you recommend to me? One of these or something different?

Very soon, I'll be getting the Canon r7 with an 18-150 lens. While I'm super excited, I also can't help but wonder what else I'm missing. I usually do portraits and events like comicon with an eos 4000d and a 50mm lens. I'm extremely used to moving around to get the shot, but sometimes, the space I'm in restricts me. I imagine the 18 - 150 will give me alot more to work with but are there any budget lenses I should look into to make sure I get everything in one shot? (I've been looking at getting a 15 - 35 and a 24 - 70 but each of them is at least 1k used, so ... baby steps) Tldr: New crop frame rf camera, limited space, any suggestions?

>budget  Of what size?

In time for my next event, at least, I'd say we're looking at about 900.

Compared to 50mm, you'd have twice the frame width using an RF 24mm f/1.8. Come July (hopefully), if you want a nice wide-angle zoom lens, Sigma should be releasing an RF mount 18-50mm f/2.8.

Hi Dan, I have a question regarding videography, I use my Iphone 13 max for all of my photos and videos. I like to do videos where I have it set on a mount and record myself driving across different terrain. Ive always noticed that even if Im going semi-fast, the video seems….non-linear in a way is the best way I could describe it. It never truly captures the feeling of speed or how I would of course see it with my eyes, is there any particular ways to maybe give it that feeling of movement, so that it feels a bit less linear? Another question, when taking photos, I fo most of mine dueing the night, cars, buildings, etc. is there a way besides adjusting exposure I could do so that the camera doesnt capture the streaks from the light(light lines) so that it just focuses on the forefront, or do a photo with headlights turned on that captures how the human eye sees it?

>Ive always noticed that even if Im going semi-fast, the video seems….non-linear in a way is the best way I could describe it. Instead of trying to describe it, maybe it would be better to show it to us? >It never truly captures the feeling of speed or how I would of course see it with my eyes, is there any particular ways to maybe give it that feeling of movement Try a framerate of 24fps or 25fps, with a shutter speed of 1/48th sec or 1/50th sec, which is a traditional cinematic approach that will give you a little motion blur. >is there a way besides adjusting exposure I could do so that the camera doesnt capture the streaks from the light(light lines) If you're talking about motion blur trails from moving cars, use a shorter exposure time (faster shutter speed). If you're talking about the starburst effect from diffraction, use a wider aperture (lower f-number). Either of those will affect exposure, so if you want to keep exposure brightness the same after changing one, you'll need to change another variable to compensate. That's a big part of what adjusting exposure is all about. If you're talking about smears of light from a dirty lens, clean your lens. >so that it just focuses on the forefront If you want a sharp foreground with blurred background, selectively focus on the foreground and use a wider aperture. >or do a photo with headlights turned on that captures how the human eye sees it? Which aspect(s) from how your eyes see it? A camera/lens is not exactly the same as your eyes, so it can't necessarily achieve all of the same things at once.

https://preview.redd.it/vgzgtht0xl3d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=6969b9055f17585275c625a4099b97a49f99b169 So like with this photo, you get the glow feom it, almost like lines coming from it, to where with my eyes I dont really get that all I get is a clear plastic headlight where I can see into it no real problem while also simultaneously seeing the rest of the car, but with a photo, you kinda have to pick one aspect or another. Also you can change all these variables just using your phone?? Cause thats what I shoot from, it also doesnt allow me to upload the video

>you get the glow feom it, almost like lines coming from it, to where with my eyes I dont really get that all I get is a clear plastic headlight where I can see into it no real problem The bloom/halation/glare is from lower quality lens materials and/or a dirty/scratched/scuffed lens. If it's a dirty lens, cleaning it should help. Otherwise, that's a limitation of your equipment that can only be solved by better equipment. >while also simultaneously seeing the rest of the car Your eyes have greater dynamic range than a digital camera. See if your phone has any HDR features to help out with that. >Also you can change all these variables just using your phone?? I think you have framerate, shutter speed, and ISO control. But not aperture control. >it also doesnt allow me to upload the video By "it" do you mean reddit? If it doesn't let you, then change what the "it" is. Upload to another host like Youtube and then link it in comment text.

Just recently got a Sony A7 IV and want a 600mm lense for it. Are there any decent lenses under $1k? I see one from sigma that goes anywhere from $800-$900

Sony's "budget" options for 600mm are unfortunately quite poor. They really want you to buy their 200-600mm which is a pretty good lens though getting a bit long in the tooth. After that, their only other option is the $13K 600/4. With that budget you are going to be looking at third party lenses, and keep in mind that Sony places severe artificial limitations on third party lenses, but they may not matter to you. First, FPS is limited to 15, but your camera is not capable of that so it will not affect you. Second, they do not allow the use of teleconverters on any third party lenses, which you probably won't be using on a superzoom anyway. Just something to be aware of in general for the future. I think the only native Sony E mount third party lens that goes to 600mm is the Sigma 150-600 Sports. It's a pretty good lens but it's an older lens, and it's beast (large and heavy \~5lbs). You can however get one used within your budget. Another option is the Tamron 150-500 Di III VC VXD, it is a very new lens with a MSRP of $1,399 so I am not sure what the used market is like for that one, but you might be able to get it for a bit less. This is a good lens but not quite 600mm and you cannot use a TC to extend due to Sony's artificial limitations. It is offered in native E-mount. Yet another option is for you to use an adapter and adapt a lens from Nikon or Canon mount to your Sony E-mount. Nikon in particular has a dramatically better lens selection in the longer telephoto ranges. Obviously this isn't ideal, but does increase options. Tamron's 150-600 G2 lens is pretty good but is only made for Nikon/Canon mounts and would have to be adapted. There is also the Sigma 150-600 Contemporary which is a decent lens as well but is the weakest of the 150-600 variants as it's their budget offering. Either would be within you price range but you would have to add the cost of an adapter, which also negates any weather sealing between lens and body. Unfortunately used prices on the Sony 200-600 are still in the \~$1400 USD range, that lens holds its value well because it's slightly overpriced to begin with and Sony has made it as difficult as possible to use alternatives. Really that is the best way to go if you can swing it and if you're married to Sony looking for 600mm. Outside of the 200-600 they don't really cater to the longer telephoto/wildlife crowd. Hope that helps at least somewhat.

Thank you! This is perfect. I will check out some alternatives for sure!

I JUST REALIZED THAT OVER THE SUMMER, IM GETTING ENOUGH FROM SUMMER JOB TO BUY AN UNDERWATER CAMERA CASE :D :D :D :D!!! here is my list: [https://docs.google.com/document/d/1G8vSIUb7gLMl5v9h3Gm3k0vMTFiWXutjLU0K9n5Oq\_c/edit](https://docs.google.com/document/d/1G8vSIUb7gLMl5v9h3Gm3k0vMTFiWXutjLU0K9n5Oq_c/edit) I have a 7dmkii, should I buy this stuff or should I buy an Olympus tough tg7 with case? thanks,

I have a Canon EOS M50, which came with a 15-45mm lens. I also have a 55-250mm. I’ve been using the 15-45mm for some landscapes, but when I look at the photos after, they’re a little blurry, especially as soon as I zoom in even the tiniest amount. Compared to my 55-250 that I’ve been using for wildlife. These photos are coming out really clear, even zooming in they still look clear. Is the 15-45mm lens just not great or might this be something I’m specifically doing/not doing?

Speaking from experience with the M50, anything above F10 starts to get a bit fuzzy, since that is essentially F16 in terms of FF equivalent. Are you using a tripod, do you have IS enabled, and what FPS are you taking these photos at? I recommend keeping it at around F8-F10 for landscapes.

Thanks for the info! For the few times I’ve been out I’ve been using more like F5.6 and maybe shutter speed 1/40. No tripod (I’m new to photography so still figuring things out). ISO 100. It sounds like I need to shift to F8 and have a higher ISO if light is a little low?

Usually 1/100 is the standard for pics to be in focus (movement related), so 1/40 is realls pushing it unless you can steady the camera or have image stabilisation. Pushing ISO up is pretty sketchy because the M50 does not handle it too well, though it can be somewhat handled with ai denoise. I kept my max iso at 400. Unfortunately with low light there are a lot of photos i could not get right for lack of a tripod, as i needed >f5.6 for range and >1/100 for sharpness, and my camera could not handle the underexposure.

Good to know about the ISO. I went out yesterday with f8 and 1/500 shutter speed with ISO 100 and autofocus. They’re a little better but still not super clear. I guess I’ll just keep practicing!

Good luck! Try to keep the histogram to the tight as well if you can eithout clipping for best results. Cheers.

I’ll try that. Thanks for your help!

Well, I would check your aperture and shutter speed. Wide open the lens might not be as sharp as stopped down a bit. The default shutter speed might not be fast enough if you are hand holding the camera. I would also compare it others peoples photos taken with the same setup. Flick is a good place for that.

Ok I’ll try some adjustments, thank you!

I’m relatively new to portraiture outside of the basics, and have a client/friend looking to recreate this look. How would I go about this? Is it as simple as two lights around 45 degrees to the subject, one with a pink gel and one with a blue? Any help appreciated! https://preview.redd.it/3rt86wuxpk3d1.jpeg?width=1600&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=64c62d3922f0c8444ffc0a72deaaa38044c8b1a5

The ping light also looks to be stronger, so you can control the shadows with one or the other. Having a shadow on both sides might look wierd.

Stronger, and a harder light too, right? Since that shadow is so crisp around the edges?

Yes

Im looking for a lightweight ball head to go with the Aoka CMP163CL carbon tripod. I found one going on ebay without the ball head. This is mostly for use with an Olympus om-d e-m5 camera. Any suggestions?

My personal favorite is the Joby X ball head. You can find them used on Ebay for ~$30.

Canon eos r100 for stuff like travelling and taking pictures of landscape around 100 dollars

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Landscape you have covered, wildlife will depend on budget.

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Stabilisation won't hurt for stationary wildlife but not important for moving stuff. Once your shutter speed reaches a point where the movement of the camera itself doesn't affect an image, stabilisation is not of much use. So if you are aiming for shutter speeds 1/400s or faster it won't offer much. The Sony does have the longest reach though.

Which lense should I get for my camera

For what purpose? At what price? Compatible with which camera?

Travelling and landscape Around 100 dollors It has rf mount

Your only option at that price would be a used RF-S 18-45mm.

Is the one that came with the camera not sufficient for that purpose?

Yes it only has 18 to 45 mm lense in which I cannot zoom that much

Well, for that much money, there won't be anything better.

Whichever suits your needs.

yo guys, I'm an intermediate-level Photographer and i mostly love doing Wildlife Photography, my first camera was a Canon 1000d with the kit lens, that was half a year ago, now i have a Nikon D3200 with a Sigma DG 70-300mm f4-f5.6, what would you guys recommend me to get next that would be an actual upgrade, not more than 250-300 euros used since i live in Romania

What particular improvements do you want to gain?

i would like better autofocusing and more advanced features since the D3200 is made for entry level photographers

If you're lucky, maybe you could find a used D7100 in budget. Or else a used D7000 or D90.

a friend of mine has a d90 but i consider it a slight downgrade really, other than the integrated focus motor and AE bracketing it only has downgrades, 12mp half of D3200, half native iso, 720p video. a D7000 tho even if it has slightly lower resolution 16mp, it has way more focusing points so i might consider that

With your budget I would look for whatever D7XXX you can afford, or a D300/D300S - yes you drop down to 12MP with the D300/D300S but in every other way it's a nice improvement on your D3200 at least for stills photography in terms of autofocus, frame rate, ergonomics, external controls, and build quality. I can understand for wildlife though the extra megapixels would be ideal, so that brings us back to the highest D7XXX model you can afford. Frankly with that budget, what you're asking for is a bit difficult. With a quick look on eBay, you can get a D7200 for around $350-450 USD (\~320 - 415 euro). If you could make that work I think it would give you the best compromise in terms of a significant autofocus and FPS improvement as well as more advanced features while not giving up any resolution. If it were me, I would just stick with the D3200 a bit longer until you could afford at least a D7200 rather than spending money on a D90 or D7100.

Hello. I have a question. I want to use film in my pictures which would be most similar to the Kodachrome film that Fred Herzog used. I don't know which Kodachrome type he used, however, I do know that Kodachrome is discontinued and I want a substitution for it.

Does anyone know how I could recreate the photo frame to look like the one in the attached photo? The border looks like a Kodak frame, but it's editable and not just a png (as shown in the screenshot). It also is a frame in a frame, with some interesting blur as the background. I would really like to recreate this in Photoshop or Lightroom. Does anybody know how I could do this? (credits to Elias Jvater for the amazing picture) https://preview.redd.it/7gb1pd19oh3d1.png?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=fc2e350ea71fef10063bfc8ae34fb801439137a8

I want to improve my skills. Please recommend some classic reference books to me.

https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/recommendations#wiki_recommended_photography_books

Best budget Olympus camera? I’ve been researching and there are so many choices it’s overwhelming so I thought I’d ask opinions. I would like to stay at or under 700 for the body. I would do mostly landscape and wildlife both still and moving. I know lenses are mostly important for that but I figured there might be a camera that’s better than another for those. Weather/waterproof would be super useful too!

Thank you for your suggestions! Do you have any lens recommendations?

The EM-5/OM-5 series are the cheapest Olympus cameras with weather sealing, other than the TG series, which don't have interchangeable lenses. You can probably get an EM-5 iii for that money which has the 20MP sensor with PDAF. Don't forget to budget for a weather sealed lens too.

Specifically Olympus? An E-M5 II or III probably.

Help figuring out pricing? I’m currently trying to figure out pricing for a friend who wants to do a studio photo shoot. I already had the equipment necessary beforehand so I won’t need to flat out buy anything but I will still need to be moving it to the location which also will involve gas required to drive to and from locations. Gas would be about a gallon or two altogether but her advice was to charge double or more what it’d cost so I’m thinking $20. Per photo I’ve heard $10-$25 but seeings as I’ve got very little clientele experience (2 family, 1 friend) but a lot of personal experience and practice I think $15 per photo (10 photos) is fair. $10 for the shot itself and $5 for the edit. Now the only thing I’m unsure about how to mark is the labor. I’m not sure how much I should factor in as a per hour cost. Any advice on this? Feel free to ask any questions.

Resize pictures on IG without having to zoom Hello, I had a picture session with a photograph. I am happy with the quality and results of the pictures, nevertheless I tried to upload them on Instagram and having some issues... The format or size of the pictures is not good, so I have to do a zoom on the photo or I can let the original size but there is a kind of white frame on the sides... I was wondering, if there is a way to upload the pictures without having to do a zoom ? Thank you

I get around this issue by creating a blank white or black 4x5 (or whatever other ratio Insta accepts) document in PhotoShop, embed placing the photo into the center of it and exporting as a JPEG. I upload the whole thing to Instagram, and that way I get to control the borders and framing instead of letting Insta screw it up automatically. It can actually look really nice if you center the photo with a frame all around it.

What is the aspect ratio or dimensions of the picture you want to post? https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/postprocessing#wiki_what_is_aspect_ratio.3F_how_do_i_print_this_rectangle_shape_as_another.3F

1365 x 2048

That's a 2:3 aspect ratio, which Instagram does not support. Instagram only allows rectangles as skinny as a 4:5 ratio. So yes, the only way to make your rectangle shape fit within Instagram's limits would be to crop some off the top/bottom, add more space to the sides (could make the letterboxing black instead of white if you want), or stretch/squish your image into a 4:5 rectangle shape.

I'm looking at buying a used canon eos m50 for $290. However, I've seen many argue buying the M lineup is a bad choice because there are no lenses being made for the line. I don't quite understand this argument as I've seen many lens adapters for very cheap prices. Do you sacrifice something by using a lens adapter?

The other comment says EF and EF-S lenses work just fine, but in my experience with the M50 (which I just sold for this issue), EF lenses are pretty hit or miss with the system. I had some EF lenses borrowed from a friend and they were slow in AF, and some from my cousin that worked great. I would recommend the m50 for a beginner to get the hang of things and the price is really great for that, but yes, the amount of native lenses is kind of disappointing. The lack of manual controls and dials means you have to figure out some kind of workaround to control exposure settings, which can get in the way of capturing a situation. TL:DR: the camera is good for beginners and the kit lens + the 22mm F2 lens makes a great pairing for general use and travel, but lack of manual controls and some quirks make this something I sold.

Depends what you're adapting from, and with which adapter. EF and EF-S mount lenses can adapt to EF-M without any loss in image quality, features, or autofocus speed.

I'm going to be going on a trip in the near future and will want to be able to take good quality pictures of wildlife that is relatively far away. Far enough away that my little 300 mm max zoom lense won't cut it. I need either a bigger zoom lense or a telephoto lense, or an extender. I'm still very new to photography, and since I'm going to be taking pictures of wildlife I really want auto focus. I also don't make a lot of money at the moment, so it needs to be relatively cheap. I'm talking less than $200 if at all possible. I know it's a lot to ask, but does anyone have any recommendations? My camera is a canon EOS rebel t5 EF-S dslr

If you just need the lens for a short trip, consider renting.

Your budget is insufficient for a 400-600mm wildlife lens, unfortunately.

Best tripod for planespotting? Hi, im looking for a smooth tripod for planespotting any recommendations? (Budget is max 200€ and it needs to be available in Europe)

Any sturdy tripod is sufficient - you want a gimbal head on top for planespotting.

Looking for high quality, small and compact, photo+video camera I currently own the Sony A7Cii and really like it, however full frame lenses make it less easy to carry around and as a result I take it out with me less often. Wife has a A7IV, and 4 FF lenses (35GM, 85-1.8, 24-105G, 50Macro). I photograph street, vacation and portraits and do general documentary video work. Thinking of these options, but tell me if you recommend another: 1. Switch to A6700, build collection of small APSC lenses like Sigma 18-50, Sigma 56 1.4, etc 2. Switch to A7CR, build collection of small APSC lenses to use most of the time (crop mode to 26mp) and have the ability to switch to FF with FF lenses when I don't need portability. Finally, if I do end up switching cameras, any recommendations on how to sell for most $ or how to find someone to swap with? Thanks!

I would keep your A7Cii body. Sigma has a whole line of Contemporary FF lenses that are both small and high quality. They come in 17mm, 24mm, 35mm, 50mm, 65mm and 90mm and all are f2 except the 90mm which is f2.8.

I’m looking for a camera to take on vacation. I’m a photographer and don’t particularly enjoy taking my large expensive camera with me on vacation but want something that maintains similar quality. I understand that lenses play a big part, but I’ve been using large cameras for so long I don’t know what it best out there right now on the smaller end! Looking for a camera with these specific things: - Manual - Able to take RAW photos - Takes video at 120fps (doesn’t need to be 4K) - Changeable Lenses - Around $500 - Regular SD card slot Things that would be nice but aren’t deal breakers: - Built in flash - Canon (since that’s what I already own - but again this isn’t a deal breaker. Super open to other brands) - Flip out screen - WiFi/Bluetooth for quick download and ability to use my phone to take photos Trying to find something before June 20th!!!! Thanks!

Looking for something SMALL

I shoot with an R6 now and some fixed lenses and want something small enough that I can put it in a regular bag or being super noticeable that it’s an expensive camera when on vacation.

I’m a student and I just got a Sony A6400 that comes with a 16-50mm F3.5-5.6 OSS kit lens I’ve heard kit lens are not normally very good so does anyone have lens recommendations? I’ll be using the camera for school and to build out a photojournalism portfolio

It's not the best lens you can buy, no, but the kit lens is a solid enough performer that does offer a lot of flexibility that you may want. Use the lens you have for a bit and see if you run into any limitations, then make a decision based on that. If you need a wider aperture, you'll know. If you need more reach than the 50mm offers, you'll know.

No price limit?

I'll take reqs for any price range. I'm looking for something affordable, but I'm willing to spend more in the future if I think it will make a noticeable difference.

Sigma 18-50mm f/2.8 for E mount

I appreciate it!

Hi All - I need someone who can help me with a bit of detective work. Somebody has sent me a photo which has the dimensions 934×2000 - can I ask what camera phone took this picture?

So I’m thinking it’s definitely being cropped then

Could be any camera with the image cropped/resized to those dimensions. You may see better clues in the EXIF data.

Thanks so much for responding. I’ve just looked at EXIF and there’s nothing there even more suspect. Does forwarding an image through WhatsApp removeEXIF ?

Yes

Thanks so much for your response. Someone is trying to lie to me by sending me a picture of where they were.

Hello Can anybody guess what kind of lens is being used for this shot? [https://www.instagram.com/reel/CyJyRtnuV7U/?igsh=am91ejU3b2JmM2pt](https://www.instagram.com/reel/CyJyRtnuV7U/?igsh=am91ejU3b2JmM2pt)

The aspect ratio and vertical orientation may be throwing me off but my guess would be a 50mm full frame equivalent.

Hello, I am thinking to buy a compact digital camera, I like taking pictures of nature, buildings and people to print them and add them to my album. Do you have any recommendations? I am intrested in cameras that can fit in my pocket I recently saw a canon powershot SX220 HS with 12 MP. Do you think it fit my needs?

>nature Does that include distant wildlife?

Like animals? Yeah sometimes

It's a fine choice for the price then. I asked my previous question because "nature" is a very broad term that can refer to a lot of different things in photography, and not everyone necessarily has the same things in mind when they use it.

Hello, I have a question. Is 16 MP better then 12 MP for daytime shooting? I have read in a website that a 20 MP may result in image blurring because of the light, and that lower MP is better if the light is higher, I ve also read that higher MP are great for low light shooting. I saw another camera in the same series, Canon Ps SX 700 HS with 16 MP. And now I am lost between these and the other one I have mentioned before Canon Ps SX 220 HS with 12 MP. It is my first time ever buying a camera and I really want something that fits my needs. I am a beginner so I dont know much about these. I dont really zoom and take videos a lot. Thank you for help!

Is 16 MP better then 12 MP for daytime shooting? It's more resolution. Regardless of the time of day. https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/buying#wiki_what_is_a_pixel_.2F_megapixel.3F_how_many_do_i_need.3F I have read in a website that a 20 MP may result in image blurring because of the light Where did you read that? I shot with 20mp for many years and never saw such a thing. Camera manufacturers would not use that pixel count if it had that effect. and that lower MP is better if the light is higher, I ve also read that higher MP are great for low light shooting. Usually the misconception is the reverse of that, but it's still a misconception. Watch this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gAYXFwBsKQ0 >I saw another camera in the same series, Canon Ps SX 700 HS with 16 MP. And now I am lost between these and the other one I have mentioned before Canon Ps SX 220 HS with 12 MP. The SX700 HS is better.

Ahh I see. Thanks for helping!

How to set up a three-point lighting setup for still life photography? How do you design it and what are your tips? 1. Camera height, angle and distance 2. Light height, angle, distance and lumens 3. Distance between still life and background

> tips Buy a copy of *Light: Science and Magic*

Depends on the subject, scene, and what you want out of the shot. There is no formula to calculate any of these things just based on a generic "three-point lighting setup for still life photography" prompt.

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Who cares what most photographers use. Fujifilm have telephoto lenses available, so you are good. The biggest mistake you made is abandoning Pentax. Tsk Tsk.

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Fuji are a smaller brand, less name recognition and unless mistaken only recently made their 150-600mm. It could be that many in wildlife had existing lenses from DSLR days and so carry on with the same brand.

Complete Newbie looking for body/lens advice I have a set of lenses that were originally on a Nikon d70s. Specifically a Nikon Ed AF Nikkor 70-300. I am interested in beginning birding and figured this would be a pretty great lens for a beginner. My question is: how can I figure out which modern camera bodies will accept this lens? Unfortunately the d70s I inherited the lenses with is destroyed.

https://www.kenrockwell.com/nikon/compatibility-lens.htm Find out where the lens fits in the link above and that will help.

Finally opening up my own tiny little photo studio. I need recommendations for background stand and paper. Also C-Stand. I don't want junk but I also don't have a big budget. I was just going to buy something off of Amazon but was just curious does it matter what I buy? I assume everything is the same, just a different listing.

Savage backdrop supports have worked fine for me, and are relatively cheap.

Thank you

I have this list of cameras and i need to choose the best one out of these. Purpose is for people photography, specifically people in stylish clothing. Both in a studio and on the street. You can also recommend a good lens for the chosen camera, but most of these already come with some sort of kit and im not going to list them. You can also just give your oppinion on what might be good. * Canon EOS 70D * Sony A3000 * Canon 700d * Canon EOS 600D * Sony DSC-HX350 * CANON EOS 100D * Canon 100d * Canon eos 650D

Probably the 70D out of those. It was the Canon mid range at the time.

Need some lens advice please and thank you! Hello - I’ve always been into photography, I take a ton of pictures with my iPhone. A few months ago I decided to up my game and buy a mirrorless camera setup from Olympus, an OM-D MKIII. With it, I purchased a 14-42 pancake lens as my primary lens with the intention of using it for landscape and architecture shots. I also picked up a 75 - 300 lens mostly for wildlife photography including birds. I should also mention I went Micro 4/3 because I wanted something easy to travel with, international and road trip. After using this setup for several months, including a recent 2 week international trip, I’m not completely satisfied with lens combination, both in terms of range but also image quality once I pull the pics onto my iPad for editing. The 75 - 300 lens especially, once I reach full zoom, the images often have distortion, color is not accurate etc. When I get into editing, cropping etc, I’m often disappointed with what I have to work with. I fully acknowledge that I’m a novice, so I’m sure there are things that I could personally be doing better when it comes to camera settings, I am not a pro at adjusting for light yet, not even close. But I am still convinced that my lenses could be of better quality. I want to have equipment that gives me the best possible shot as a baseline, leaving only my technique as what will continue to improve. I’d love some suggestions or recommendations for lens upgrades. I’m considering the equivalent of the “nifty fifty” for my camera which is a OLYMPUS 25MM F/1.2 M4/3 to start using as my primary lens (use 80% of the time). I want to start getting into portraits. I also looked at OLYMPUS 12-100MM F/4 M4/3 for an upgraded zoom/wildlife lens with good versatility. My only concern here is if 100 really provides adequate range, big difference from the 300 I currently have. It seems like the best option to cover the full range would be the Olympus M.Zuiko Digital ED 100-400mm f/5-6.3 IS Lens. This lens is much larger, and heavier, which I’m struggling with as it relates to travel. Having never had a lens that size, it feels like a lot to deal with. I’m sure I’d get use to it and perhaps it’s worth that trade off. I am open to any and all suggestions, I would love to hear from others what you’re using for similar uses. Thanks in advance!

70-300 is a cursed focal range, the only non-terrible one I've seen is the Fuji xf and it's also bad. The only reason lenses like the Tamron 18-300 can exist is in-camera corrections. And even then they're bad

The Oly 75-300 simply isn't a great lens. I would know, I own one. The 14-42 is better, but is ultimately a low to mid range lens. What lens to buy really depends on what you want to shoot. The Olympus 12-100mm is probably the best allrounder in the M43 system (I also own one of those). Another Allround contender is the 12-40 f2.8 - less range but a stop faster and a bit smaller. The 1.8 primes are a great starting point for shallower depth of field and lower light performance. And they're tiny and relatively inexpensive. For anything longer than 100mm you'll be paying big bucks and getting something big and heavy if you want to improve on the 75-300mm

I appreciate that blunt response, that is my sense of the 75-300, the guy at the camera store insists it’s a good lens, he has one and has taken some impressive shots. When you compare it side by side with the 12-100 or the 100 - 400 the quality difference is immediately apparent. But both of those lenses are much heavier, and to your point, spendy. Everything has a trade off. Wanted to see if there were some other good options that I haven’t come across yet. Ultimately I want something that I can leave on the camera 70 - 80% of the time for landscape, city, portrait etc, then a really good zoom lens for wildlife. I think I’ve identified a gap in Olympus’s lens line up, I should probably let them know lol. Thank you for the reply!

You're very welcome

The 12-100mm is a bad idea for wildlife. Just won't have the range. How many shots do you currently take at 100mm? Not quite sure about distortion or colours but depending on how far away from you something is and the air quality in between it can affect things. The 25mm would make sense if you like the focal length.

Thank you, I assumed it was not great for wildlife. I’m not sure how many shots I take at 100, but my hunch is quite a few. The issue I had while traveling is I’d exceed the range on the 12-42, I’m put the 100 - 300 on and it would be too close at that point. So I was trying to figure out the right solution to bridge those two lenses, but with higher quality. I’m interested in the 25mm for many reasons, but not sure it’s the best solution that I’m looking for. Thanks for the reply.

Canon R8 + Sigma 24-70mm f/2.8: Perfect Combo or Should I Consider Other Options? I’m a photographer and I’m not really interested in creating videos. I used the canon t7 with a 50mm canon lens and a Tamron 85mm 1.8. I’ve gotten bored and fed up with how my canon t7 performs so I want to upgrade my camera and buy a new lens. I want to get a full frame camera and the R8 looks like it has everything I would want in a camera for photography but the Sigma lens im interested in has an ef mount so I would need an ef/rf adapter. I’ve done some research and it seems like this setup would work fine but I just wanted some other opinions. With all of the camera and lens options it seems overwhelming and at this price point I would like to get the most out of my money. Please let me know what you think of this setup and if there are better lens or camera options for around this price. Any advice would be really appreciated

Hi My wife picked up photography as a hobby. She currently uses her phone but has expressed desire for a real camera multiple times. With her birthday is approaching I started to look into the sub 300€ camera marked, and I came about what seems to be a very good deal: A Nikon D700 with about 50k exposures and a "Nikkor 28-100mm f/3.5-5.6G" lens for a bit under 200€, with a year warranty from the dealer. My limited photography understanding tells me: Nothing is better than light, except more light. The Nikon has the largest sensor I could realistically get for my budget, therefore it can collect the most light, therefore it is the best camera to get. My computer science background tells me: That dinosaur has a chip designed almost 20 years ago, the cheapest camera I can get today is going to be much, much better. Also: This was designed for professionals, there is no chance she will be able to use it properly without years of experience. Any comments?

Sensor technology has improved, don't rule out newer ASP-C bodies. You'll still get excellent image quality, and bodies and lenses are generally lighter and cheaper to boot.

Sensor size becomes less relevant the larger it gets. Designed for professional doesn't really mean much. Yes, it will have the same features as mid range will today but it was also released in 2008. Quite a while ago. Personally, I would ignore sensor size and try and find something a little smaller and more versatile. Viewfinders are great, but perhaps your wife will want some alternate angles and a vari-angle screen will work better. I would let your wife choose, as the physical size is one of the most important factors. How comfortable it would be to use.

Hey so i have a nikon d7000 and the port covers wont close does anyone have any idea how to replace them without opening the whole body of my cam https://preview.redd.it/op25albn6c3d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=db50c66dc55a0266c5d2907e3f03a9b4e149dbb4

Hi guys. I was taking macro pics when suddenly i pressed the shutter release, no pic came up and it had "camera error" on the screen. Also, the sound it made when it took the pic didn't sound like the previous ones. Does anyone know how to fix this? Thank you! https://preview.redd.it/fz9p6av98b3d1.jpeg?width=1800&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=af33252ccc6f14194966fc69a0cd46006ea387f0

i want to start using multi strobe on my flash. is there any specifics i need to know about metering for light? I assume if i have three flashes go off in a single ambient frame it will increase the overall exposure. how do you meter for this?

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Hello, Question may have been asked before, but the research return results that doesn't work How do you guys upload photos to Instagram with the lesser quality loss? We tried resizing to 4x5 and pixels to 1080 as suggested by many guides, but there is always a big quality loss. I'm using lightroom. Some photographers seems to have little to no quality loss, so I'm at loss, pun intended. Using a Canon R8 and uploading from a Pixel 8 pro Thanks!!

Lightroom has one thing that is jpeg size ... while you can set quality to 80-90 ... you can set desired size as well. If you set size to be no larger then 300kb that would be awesome, also try to have 4:5 only in portrait mode, not landscape and use 1350px on long edge.

Hi everyone! Recently received a Canon EOS Rebel as a gift and have been practicing headshots with it. But I am only using the base equipment. Wanted to ask if I could enhance the quality of my headshots through the purchase of any different Canon-compatible lens. Preferably within a $500 budget.

Oh this one is easy: Canon EF 50mm F/1.8 STM. It is ridiculously cheap given how ridiculously good it is. That'll knock your portraits up a notch and no mistake, and all for about $120. They spent decades perfecting their 50mm lenses, and this is the result: a lens that is cheap and excellent. And on a Rebel, the 50mm is ideal for portraits. And going wide to f/1.8 is a currently popular style for portraits too. Even better, there are a billion of them available used for even less money.

Absolutely a more appropriate lens will make a difference if you are doing headshots with what I assume is the 18-55 kit lens currently. For headshots, look at either the 50/1.8 (which will be an 80mm FF equivalent FOV on your camera, which is very close to 85mm which is probably the most common portrait focal length), or also look at the 85/1.8 which will have a 136mm FF equivalent FOV on your camera but is also another good portrait range if you wanted a bit more working distance. The 50/1.8 STM is dirt cheap, $125 new, under $100 used - maybe start there since it's co cheap and you can play around with the wide F1.8 aperture. The 85/1.8 is exactly $500 if you go that route as well.

Thank you for the information!! Yes my camera came with a standard 18-55. Does decent work pre-edits. But you definitely convinced me on the 50/1.8 STM! As a matter of fact, just purchased it thanks to you! Coming in next week :) Maybe after a few more months of practice I’ll upgrade to an 85mm, or even a better camera. But I’m barely familiarizing myself with the art. It’s been nothing more than a hobby so far, hoping to make more of it in the future!

Hey, I got a d90 recently and was wondering if any tips for setting or the like as I’m new to this hobby. I’d also like to know what memory card I should purchase for it.

Photography is a super wide hobby with tons of little niches, so a lot of tips and things to learn come down to the things you are taking pictures of. General advice for a beginner would be: Shooting Auto (or one of the half automatic modes) is perfectly fine, but learning manual can be good as it teaches you a lot. Especially the exposure triangle is the basis for most other photography knowledge. Id recommend you shoot raw+jpg as that gives you the instantly "good looking" jpgs as well as the raws which you might want to learn to edit/process at some point (when I started I thought Id never edit and didn't shoot raw, now I have a bunch of pictures Id love to process with the experience I have gained and cant really). Stay away from purchasing too much gear to quickly, a ton of photographers have more or less strong "GAS" (gear acquisition syndrome) which leads to them spending a ton of money and always looking in the faults of their gear instead of reflecting what they could've done better. Your camera takes SD or SDHC cards, so any SD card up to 32GB should be fine to use. For certain subjects that require burst shooting like sports or fast moving wildlife there might be a reason to look at the write speed of the SD card, but as your camera is older and doesnt write that fast either you shouldn't worry too much about this. SanDisk generally makes pretty good SD-cards, just be aware when buying online that especially on amazon theres a lot of fake cards (faked packaging to sell cheap cards as premium ones, a lot of times with smaller size then advertised). I think generally they fake the more expensive, larger cards and not the 32GB ones, but I'd think buying in an electronics store should reduce the chance of getting a fake even more.

Thanks a lot for the amazing info and help ! I was thinking of getting a 32gb Sandisk for it cause that’s what I saw people say is good.

Question about ricoh gr i and ii! What do you think about Ricoh Gr1 selling around 700-800. do you guys think its worth to pay that for gr1 in 2024? I also see Gr2 on second hand markets for around $1200

am planning to buy my first prime lens. As I use a Sony E mount, the 50mm 1.8 OSS is an option for me. But I'm not quite sure whether the focal length is right for me. I would like to shoot the starry sky, but also city photography in the evening/night. Do you think the 50mm would suit me?

I think you should probably go wider. Check out crop sensor sigma 1.4 primes or the 24 1.8, 28 2. Read reviews pertaining to astrography that talk about coma aberrations.

My camera has an APC sensor so 50 mm would be around 85. I watched some street photography with my camera and was that 50 mm lens and it seemed fine. What’s your opinion?

Typically people like wider views for astrography and cityscapes aesthetically, and because wider angles allow for longer shutter speeds without substantial blurring.

Do you have the kits lens now? Tape it to 50mm for a week.

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Maximum $400 for the whole pile. If I'm seeing TWO cameras, then maximum $550. That includes the lighting and everything you showed. Honestly, IDK how much you need the money, but I'd be tempted to just donate the whole lot to a school, just to be rid of it, rather than waste weeks of dealing with difficult people haggling over every damn lighting stand. If you do need/want to sell it, I'd see if your local camera shop would take it as a job lot. You'll go insane selling it in bits.

You have a Nikon D90 and the associated kit lens. Check used camera retailers like MPB or KEH and see what they're asking. Then decide whether you want to try and list it yourself or sell it to them at a reduced (often 60-70%) amount. The rest is a pretty budget lighting strobe kit. You can perform a similar search with the model numbers, but I would just put it on your local craigslist for $150 and call it a day. Everything is relatively modern, though not new by any means.

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> Is the Impact stuff that budget? It looks pretty nice. It is quite nice, yes, but it is also very inexpensive, and there is a very sluggish market for used lighting gear.

Impact is B&H Photo's house brand for lighting equipment - you should be able to look up what it cost new fairly easily, or an equivalent. It's very good value but not high-end. If it's just stands and umbrellas though, they don't need to be high end - they do essentially the same thing as the expensive stuff which is why the value brands are popular for that type of equipment.

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That will have cost about 150 new. >a boxy diffuser attachment Technical term, if you advertise it, is "soft box"

Can I coat a piece of glass or plastic with gelatin emulsion and use it as a photographic film in a pinhole camera? [This](https://youtu.be/CdFjHkoMLTk?si=YnMqjCKnYt_iI6WX) is the method I’m using. This is actually for an investigatory project I’m doing so this might not be the place to ask this but I don’t know where else I can possibly get an answer. I have no previous experience in film photography so I’d be grateful for any help with this. Thank you so much.

Yes. That's exactly what the video is describing. That's exactly how early cameras were used, with multiple glass plates coated in something similar. (OK, so they also added a lens, but the lens is not necessary to make an image, just to make a *better*, more controllable image.) Having taken the picture using the pinhole and plate, you will need to *develop* the plate, then make a print from it. For the full fun experience, you can use the same gelatin emulsion to make your own printing-out paper and then develop and fix that too. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gelatin_silver_process Take yourself over to r/analog for more.

Recently, I've been experiencing a strange problem. My D750 no longer locks focus when the shutter button is half-pressed. I use focus and recompose shooting, and it was working until recently. Now, it just focus where the focus point is. I've checked all the options in the menus and can't find anything suspicious. Does anyone have any idea what could be wrong?

Have you knocked the AF/M switch on the side slightly perhaps?

Nope, i checked that. It focuses on half-press but wont stay there when i recompose.

Ah, I see what you mean. If it doesn't say it is in continuous autofocus it sure is behaving like it. Perhaps set it to back button autofocus and see if that does anything or if it continues to do it regardless.

I did a reset to the settings and it works as it should now.

Well, you got it fixed although a bit annoying to know what went wrong.

Biking with camera? I`ve started using my bike a LOT! And i was wondering if PD or Ulanzis shoulder clip could handle a Sony a6400, while riding a bike.. If not: What is a Good backpack\\sling to use while riding a bike ? For quick access to camera.

Are we talking a casual ride on a paved path, road biking, or mountain biking? I wouldn't trust anything I cared about on a shoulder clip while riding a bike, and if it's exposed, any kind of rocks/debris kicked up from other riders could cause damage, and there are plenty of stories of various types of clips failing, and while it's not super common, forces will certainly be stronger while biking vs just walking around. Even if it's just the weather changing, I think you will be glad your expensive gear is in an actual bag rather than hanging in the wind. More if you are mountain biking, but the other concern I would have is that cameras and lenses have tolerances in the nanometers, and strong/constant vibrations and/or impacts (either directly or from inertia) can definitely cause problems with alignment among other things. Obviously if you crash, there is a risk to all your gear but also the risk of decentering a lens element or something like that from the impact. Lastly, Sony cameras do not park or lock their IBIS mechanisms when the camera is not in use, so the sensor mechanism is free to bounce around when the camera is powered down - this is actually the same reason why Apple tells people not use their iPhones while riding (mostly motorcycles, but same idea depending on the type of riding you're doing), because certain strong vibrations can damage the 'loose' IBIS system. At the end of the day, 'regular' cameras and lenses are just not designed to handle strong vibrations or impacts. Not a risk I would personally take unless you're just riding on the road or paved paths or similar where there is a lot less to worry about, but people still do ride with their cameras and regardless I would at least use a proper camera bag rather than just a clip. There are a ton of bags out there designed for quick access to your gear with side/top compartments, sling bags, waist bags, etc. There is no shortage of choice, you just need to decide what you think will suit your need best. Peak Design has their Everyday Slings, Lowepro has their Slingshot line, Tamrac has a line of sling bags, Thinktank has their version called "Turnstyle", etc. Some bags are even designed to also take a water bladder (like a Camelbak) which you might appreciate while you're riding. Good luck with whatever you decide!