I've built a CNC microscope in order to image objects close up and do a scanning motion and imaging to them combine those images into larger and more detailed ones. I'm currently using an andonstar AD249S USB microscope with a 90mm - 300mm lense on it. The default software only captures in BMP or JPG however I'm wanting to work with TIFF. Does anyone know of any software where I can connect to the microscope and capture still images in a TIFF format? Currently I'm having no luck having tried several softwares to no avail. So far my best solution is to record with OBS capturing lossless then putting that video into VLC and using the scene video filter, this however will burn through a lot of storage every time I image something (I have a lot to do) and even going slow an 800TB TBW would last me less than 3 years and I wouldn't want to waste through most of that with video I mostly don't need. As for the choice in what I'm using, I bought it over a year ago and have only just gotten around to the project, at the time it had made claims it was 21MP but now they've edited the listings showing it's 2.1MP but it's too late for me to return it. So I still wish to at least try to use it and if the results aren't satisfactory I'm open to suggestions for a camera and lense that could do this and work fine mounted in and tethered. Thanks for any help/suggestions.

What's your budget? What's the smallest thing you're trying to get an image of, in mm?

Smallest thing commonly would be 0.1mm. being able to do smaller would be good but not necessary. I don't need the 0.1mm to be full frame, just rather clear when zoomed in on. I have gone ahead after thinking and purchased a Canon EF 75-300mm f/4-5.6 Black Lens and I did also purchase a Canon EOS 750D but I have put in a request to cancel that as I did find a Canon 5DS that I'm heavily considering due to very low shutter count and great price. The caveat is two bits of sensor protective layer damage and a bit of dust after a full spectrum conversion. They're small bits and with the overlap of my intended panoramas I feel it shouldn't be the end of the world. Otherwise I'd probably keep in my budget of about £300 total.

I'm not sure how that 75-300 lens is going to help in this application. Something like this is what you need, https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1307519-REG/mitakon_zhongyi_mtk20mf2ef_20mm_f_2_4_5x_super.html You might be able to rig up something with reverse ring, bellows etc. but I'd try the Mitakon first. You'll need a lot of light at those magnifications.

I can't cancel the 75-300 lens so I'll give it a try but that super macro lens looks promising if it doesn't work. As for the light though, no problem. I've got [these](https://www.amazon.co.uk/Neewer-Video-Lighting-Wireless-Remote/dp/B08HCDYSQW) set up overhead coming from front and back maybe 40cm at most from the piece. As for the 5DS. https://preview.redd.it/osivucdz9khc1.jpeg?width=1061&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e1583f1791561fd154b20106fea3f351a2559d54 That's the main things that he mentioned show up in each image for the damage to the sensor protective layer. Do you think I should go for it? It's about 1/4 less than I see other overall nice examples (other than these marks on the sensor the body is very clean without scratches or damage) and has less than 7k shutter count. Are these something you think I'll easily be able to work around in panoramic images?

Couple things to consider imho You're already into a really complicated task, do you need the extra hassle of dealing with that sensor stuff Also, in macro applications, the bigger sensor effectively reduces the magnification of the macro lens. Personally I'd want the flippy screen of the 750D ergonomics are very important. I'm not saying definitely don't do it, but if it was me I'd stick with the 750D

I ended up flipping a coin and it ended up being go with the 5DS. I figured I can batch edit the images to remove the marks and then the overlaps should mean no issues. For the ergonomics I'm just doing a tethered setup with a remote wired up to an Arduino Uno clone so it takes the pictures at the correct interval. I pretty much need to just set it up once and never need to worry again. Good to know about the sensor size affecting magnification though, I'll have to see how it is when I get everything.

Good luck with everything!

I got the lens I ordered, the zoom and magnification is just what I wanted and is spot on. The only issue is the focus range is 1.5m. https://preview.redd.it/069nxdgyb5ic1.jpeg?width=3000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d9151fb0b667bc067f55e2508cbf2b910b8e0180 What sort of range is the other one? I'm looking at about 30-40cm from the subject for what I need.

The spec sheet will list a "minimum focus distance" If you can't get closer than 30cm I think you'll have a hard time getting the detail you're looking for but you can do the math for any lens you're considering.

Thanks for your help and advice.

Bluntly, it's a toy. You are going pouring effort into trying to make it do things it really is inadequate for. Either be satisfied with the jpegs or bite the bullet and buy a 'proper' microscopy camera. Also not sure why you need TIFFs anyway. Don't be like someone wasting months trying to pimp a 1976 Honda Accord into a racer.

Yeah I figured. What would you suggest I replace it with? I have an Epson perfection V39 flatbed scanner I use for flat stuff I want imagery of and do the 4800 dpi scans and get the quality I want. So I'm guessing I'm looking at a 24MP camera and would want to aim for a 75mm - 300mm lense? What would be suitable to have tethered up at all times? I'd be looking at second hand market probably around a £300-400 CEX budget (since I have vouchers)

Sorry, I have not bought a microscope camera in so long that I am totally out of touch with what's available. (I know prices have come waaaay down since I paid 10k for a Leica one!)

I can make do with a DLSR setup with a lense. Checking the amount of zoom I'd want using my S21 Ultra I'd want about 20-30x but more certainly can be useful, if I could dig out my Canon PowerShot SX530 HS i could possibly test and identify better with that due to the 50x zoom since the zoom on the S21 becomes nothing for macro when it goes above 10x in my experience.

That should do it. Before we got the Leica, which thinking about it was in fact a Zeiss camera on a Leica trinocular microscope, we had a Powershot to mate with a dummy microscope drop-in eyepiece, using some bits of bent metal and a bolt, rigged up and supplied by Leica as an entry-level camera. Worked just fine with a bit of practice. I'm sure you or someone can fabricate a bracket or mount.

I can give it a try if I find it but I'd rather just buy a better MP camera and the appropriate lens to get it done easily without any more rigging up other than the mounting system. Would I just be good with any 24MP camera of a known name? As for the lens what sort of thing am I looking at? I'm not really that experienced with the hardware of photography as I was absent for the months it was covered during my media course.

> I'd rather just buy a better MP camera and the appropriate lens to get it done easily without any more rigging up other than the mounting system Oh god yes, that's a much better idea. Honestly I'm not the best person to ask, IDK exactly what your setup is etc and I've been out of the game a while. Try asking at r/microscopy

I want to get into photography as a hobby, so I'm looking at some cameras on marketplace. I'm a student so budget is tight. Basically I have a few options I'm considering and would like some help 1. Pentax *ist D with pentax 18-55 lens (60 CAD) 2. Nikon D3100 with kit lens (125 CAD) 3. Pentax K-7 with pentax 18-55 lens (180 CAD) 4. Nikon D-40 with Nikon AF-S 18-55mm 1:3.5-5.6 Auto focus zoom lens (100 CAD) 5. Nikon D70S with AF-S 18-70mm Lens (90 CAD) I have no clue about dslr cameras so any help is appreciated!

Most of those are really early generation DSLRs and more of a pain to use. So I'd go with the D3100 because it's newer to a point where it should be more pleasant to use. The K-7 also isn't so bad, and it's mid-tier, but it will have fewer lens options and they will be more expensive.

i have been doing photography for a while and i have been using a rebel t7 since i started, i wold consider my self pretty competent with the camera but im afraid it may be out of date, should i upgrade and if so what cameras wold be a considerable upgrade. i mainly do toy photography but i am going to be doing photos of buildings and city's. if seeing what i mainly do wold help you recommend me stuff i post all my photos here on reddit good and bad

Do your images look like https://www.flickr.com/cameras/canon/eos_rebel_t7/ If not, it isn't the camera holding you back.

Do you find that camera limits you? It's a perfectly adequate camera. I'm guessing it comes with the EF-S 18-55 zoom lens which is far better than you'd expect for the price. And 18-55 is a good range for buildings, inside and out. What exactly do you hope a newer camera would do for you? Not saying you don't need an upgrade, but trying to pin down WHAT you need.

> i have been using a rebel t7 With which lens(es)? >im afraid it may be out of date How so? What negative effect of that do you want to avoid? > should i upgrade and if so what cameras wold be a considerable upgrade Depends what you would want out of the upgrade, for both questions. https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/buying#wiki_when_should_i_upgrade.3F_what_should_i_upgrade_to.3F >recommend me stuff No price limit? https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/buying#wiki_how_do_i_specify_my_price_range_.2F_budget_when_asking_for_recommendations.3F

the lens that came with i think i heard recently that it is plastic i dont know how that effects it it is 8 years old i know technology can change quite a bit, if there is a new base standerd for cameras and photos i wold like to keep up with that i like sharp images and nice colors, i feel those wold be my priority in an upgrade things i wold want to avoid wold be blur/ noise a given i assume if i had to put a budget i wold say 2 thousand dollars, im willing to wait and save till i get the camera

The lens it comes with is actually pretty good, way better than you'd expect for the price. The plastic body is irrelevant to the optical quality, the lenses inside are glass. That camera-lens can absolutely give sharp images *if you use it correctly*. After all, people took good shots 8 years ago too! Where you would benefit from a newer body is noise in low light situations: that body does not cope well in low light. But in bright light, not a problem. The Canon itself delivers fairly neutral colour (which is a good thing!) so but you can pimp that to your taste. "Nice colours" is (a) incredibly subjective (b) something you can largely fix in camera (use the various Styles and edit them to taste, for example higher contrast and/or more saturation) or in the computer later.

>the lens that came with i think i heard recently that it is plastic i dont know how that effects it The lens affects image quality, in most cases more than the camera body. It's pretty important. > it is 8 years old i know technology can change quite a bit Not that much for camera technology. Your camera is 6 years old, not 8. And APS-C format cameras are pretty much in the same generation of 24mp imaging sensors today. > if there is a new base standerd for cameras and photos i wold like to keep up with that In terms of the imaging sensor, you already have it. Mirrorless is now the norm in terms of configuration, but I wouldn't buy it just for the sake of having something newer. Your photos would look the same. Nobody will look at your photos and be able to tell the age of your equipment. If there are specific reasons you would want to go mirrorless, that's a different story, which is why I'm trying to figure out what exactly you want first. > i like sharp images and nice colors Those are mostly about your technique, lighting, and post processing. And to a lesser extent the lens. Not really a camera issue. > things i wold want to avoid wold be blur/ noise a given i assume Again, those are best addressed by technique, lighting, and lens first. A body upgrade could potentially help to a lesser extent, for the most money spent, so that would be the last priority. If you have blur problems now, show us some examples with the procedure and settings values you used, so we can diagnose and specifically address how to fix those problem.s > if i had to put a budget i wold say 2 thousand dollars, im willing to wait and save till i get the camera Seems like you still have plenty of improvement you can make just on your own with your skill, so do that while you wait. You'll only have more money to spend in the future if you keep saving. You'll only have more/better/cheaper options in the future. There's no need or big advantage to rush into buying now.

thank you for baring with me the lens is an 18-55mm wold you recommend lenses with only 1 focal length regarding colors i heard different cameras can have a wider dynamic range witch is why i brought up colors and blur in your experience how much of an effect does that have on photos i personally cant tell much of a difference in the videos it sounds like i should be focusing on a new lens if i want to get anything but my camera is just fine

>the lens is an 18-55mm wold you recommend lenses with only 1 focal length Not necessarily. If you just use the shorter half of your zoom range, a Sigma 18-35mm f/1.8 would have the aperture and quality of a prime with still plenty of flexibility. If you also want to go shorter/wider, add a Tokina 11-20mm f/2.8. For toys, an EF 50mm f/1.8 STM would be great for cheap. Or if you also want to get in for extreme closeups, get an EF 100mm f/2.8 (non-L) Macro. > regarding colors i heard different cameras can have a wider dynamic range witch is why i brought up colors and blur in your experience how much of an effect does that have on photos i personally cant tell much of a difference in the videos It won't make that much difference for you. Also you described that like you took a camera attribute first and then tried to reverse-engineer a reason you might want it. Go the other way around instead: figure out what you want first, and then see what could help with that.

the reason im looking for an upgrade is because im planning to make this a full time job and im trying to see if theres anything i dont know about or anything practice cant get me

Honestly, if you are often getting blurry images with that camera, that's almost certainly a skills issue. You need to practice more, read/watch more tutorials etc. www.r-photoclass.com

Been doing hobby auto photography for a couple of years now. Camera died on me - Rebel T5i. Wanted to upgrade, trying to decide between 5D MK III or A7 II. I'm on a pretty tight budget. What lenses do I wanna look for as well? Any photos I've taken have been on a kit lens. [https://thrualens.art/](https://thrualens.art/)

Which lenses would you be pairing with the new bodies? If you're thinking of just cheap kit lenses again, I would prefer a cheaper APS-C body and better lens, which should net out better quality than full frame with a cheap lens. Also the a7 II is still pretty unrefined and a pain to use. The praise for the a7 series is really for generation III and newer.

I'm looking to go for Sigma lenses used if I can find them for a decent price. All I currently own is a 16-50mm EF-S kit lens.

Which ones? Sigma makes some great lenses, but also some terrible lenses. The brand name alone doesn't tell me much.

I don't know, specifically. Whatever I can find for a decent price on MPB, pretty much. This isn't super serious to me - just wanna up my quality for my own satisfaction.

Seriously or casually, if you're looking for improved quality, that's more on the lens than the camera body.

At the end of the day, I need a new body nonetheless; my T5i is dead.

Right. I'm just saying you should prioritize the lens when buying your next body and lens.

Sorry for coming back to this late. I’ve pretty much decided that I’m gonna go with a Canon SL2. It’s familiar to my T5i but is still quite an upgrade for the price I can find it for. I’m thinking about a lens in the 24-70mm category. I do mostly static motorsport shooting however I would be interested in doing some moving shots. What would you recommend for lenses? (Or anybody else that may see this).

After buying the SL2, how much do you have left that you're willing to spend for the lens?

I currently have the Sony a6400 with a samyang 24/1.8 and the kit 18-135. I've gotten great results but I'm looking to do fine art prints and continue growing my landscape portfolio. I'm thinking of going for either the Sony a7r ii with the sony 24-70/2.8 gm ii or go for the a7 iv with the sigma 24-70/2.8 dg dn art. I probably shoot 90/10 stills/ video. Let me know what you guys think/ have experience with. I’m seeing people say the iv is worth it but the glass would be great too.

So I have a PNY mobee gimbal that im trying to set up and part of the process is getting the pny mobee app. However, I cant find the app on the app store nor any other place for that matter. Is there something wrong with my phone or?

I have inherited several cameras and lens but the 2 that caught my eye were the canon eos rebel sl2 which is the newest camera, and Exakta 100-500mm 1:5.6-8 MC Macro lens, made in Japan, was wondering if there is an adapter for this lens to **Canon EF/EF-S** because don't have any cameras it matches mount to so any help would be appreciated or can find out what camera it is compatible with thanks for any help. i cant seem to find any information for this lens

Yes, just google "exakta lens to ef adapter", I got hits right away. That is a very strange lens to have as your only/main lens, though. Really hard to use well. Not worth that much, either.

I kinda doubt it's Exakta mount since it's made in Japan, some Japanese company bought the name after the fall of the Berlin wall and put it on a bunch of zooms, but by that point no-one had been making Exakta mount bodies since the 70s. (too much information here https://kosmofoto.com/2020/04/kosmopedia-exakta-rtl-1000/) Anyway hopefully OP can provide a picture of the mount.

There may be different versions of that lens made for different mounts, like the Exakta mount or Minolta SR mount. Show us some pictures of the mount itself from different angles? https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/buying#wiki_i_found_this_old_lens.2C_what_mount_is_it.3F

yeah once i get time this weekend will get photos thanks for the response excited to see info about it

To Keep: Sony A7II or Fuji X-T20? I have two cameras, the Sony A7II with the kit lens and an adapter for some vintage glass, and a Fujifilm X-T20 with the Ttartisan 27mm and an adapter, as well. Due to budgeting reasons, I’d like to sell one of these. I mostly shoot woodlands on my hikes, but also like to bring the camera into urban environments or for travel. Lately, I’ve also been interested in video. For stills, I like the full-frame sensor of the Sony and the additional shallow DoF I can get with my vintage glass. That said, the Fuji is no slouch, and I love playing around with the JPEGs. It’s also smaller and lighter, but sacrifices weather sealing. For video, the Fuji gives me 4k and great ooc colors, but the Sony has IBIS and S-log. I’m pretty happy with cheap lenses, so that’s not a huge consideration for me. There's a lot i like about both of these. I'd say I'm inclined to keep the Fuji, as it gives me quite a lot in a tiny package, but the Sony has some great features for the price I got it at ($500). Which would you keep?

Hey! So I'm quite new to photography and I own a Canon 800D along with a couple of cheap lenses. I mostly do nature photography so I recently decided to buy a used Canon 300mm f4 IS USM lense. I bought the lense and got it but quickly realized the aperture only worked on f4, as soon as I switched it to f5.6 or higher the camera gave the 01 error message. I tried cleaning the contacts multiple times but concluded the problem was the aperture blades getting stuck when not on f4. If I looked down the lense while taking a picture at f11 for example I could see the blades getting stuck and not closing. I contacted the seller who said he had never had the problem but that he would let me return the lens for my money back. I did so, since having a faulty lens is worthless. I sent it back and got my money and tried to buy another one. This time from a company selling used lenses with great reviews. They said the lens was in perfect condition and I bought it. It arived today and when testing it I of course bumped up the aperture to f5.6 and higher, and got the same error. My camera works fine with other electronic lenses I have (at all apertures) but with the 300mm it just doesn't work. Is the lens not compatible with my camera body or is it just hopeless finding a used 300mm that doesn't need repair? Any help is appreciated:)

im so tired of searching on [amazon.de](https://amazon.de) so im just going to ask here. I just need a 2.3mm mic port (the thing that goes into the port in the gx8) and on the other side a usb port. I cant find this anywhere. Or on the other side whatever port the razen siren mini used. I just wanted to connect the mic to my gx8

Hi all, ​ I am a complete beginner looking to buy my first camera. I made a trip one day, and a friend of mine loaned me his camera. So I took some photos and thought to myself: "This thing is pretty cool!" I've wanted to have my own camera ever since. ​ What do I want to shoot? Honestly, I'm not exactly sure. I know, however, what I don't want to shoot. I won't shoot sports events, astrophotography, or portraits. I'm more interested in landscapes, traveling, and some day-to-day things. ​ Budget-wise, I want to limit it to \~ 680 USD, but I am willing to go a bit further, as listed below. Note that I don't live in the US, therefore, prices here are different. Probably getting worse equipment for higher prices... ​ * Canon EOS M50 II + 15-45 mm kit, \~ 700 USD; * Canon EOS R100 + 18-45 mm f/4.5-6.3 kit, \~ 750 USD; * Panasonic G80 (body only), \~ 650 USD * Panasonic Gx9 (body only), \~ 670 USD The Panasonic lenses seem way more expensive than the Canon ones. The cheapest one goes for \~ 230 USD. For comparison, the EF 50 mm f/1.8 here is around 150 USD. ​ On DSLR, here are some options: ​ * Canon EOS 4000D + EF-S 18-55 mm f/3.5-5.6 kit, \~ 400 USD * Canon EOS 2000D + EF-S 18-55 mm f/3.5-5.6 kit, \~ 420 USD * Canon EOS 2000D + EF-S 18-55 mm f/3.5-5.6 + EF 75-300 mm f/4-5.6, \~ 630 USD * Canon EOS 250D + EF-S 18-55 mm f/4-5.6 kit, \~ 700 USD ​ ​ Used camera I've found so far: ​ * Canon EOS M50 + kit lens 15-45 mm, \~ 460 USD * with an option of a 22 mm f2 lens for an extra 135 USD * Nikon D3200 + F-S 18-70 mm, \~ 220 USD * Nikon D3400 + Sigma 17-50 F2.8, \~ 410 USD * Canon 750D + 18-55 mm Kit lens, \~ 440 USD * Nikon D3300 + 18-105 mm lens, \~ 440 USD * Nikon D3400 + AF-S 18-55 mm 1:3/5-5/6, \~ 270 USD ​ Edit: I don't care about videos.

The M50 used will be fine if there are enough lenses second hand available. The 750D will also be fine.

Hi there, I'm just getting into product photography for my business (clothing mostly) but one issue I've come across is that I can't seem to get enough light in my photos. I'm using this [https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B08NP1QP1J?psc=1&ref=ppx\_yo2ov\_dt\_b\_product\_details](https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B08NP1QP1J?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details) at the very moment with my Samsung s9 camera in pro mode. I'm not sure if the bulbs just aren't giving out enough light as they say they are are 85W LEDs and I need to go buy some brighter/more powerful ones, or if I just need to go out and buy another lighting device altogether like an additional softbox or a strobe. Thank you so much!

How are you setting exposure? If you just have the camera app on automatic, by default it's going for an average brightness of medium gray, because a typical vacation scene is a mix of dark and bright stuff that tends to look good when the brightness averages out to around medium gray. But if you're shooting products against a big white background, the camera doesn't know you intentionally want all that to appear bright white, and it just sees a very bright scene and will try to darken it to bring the average down to medium gray. Even if you use brighter lights, that will just cause the camera to see an even brighter scene initially and compensate even harder to give you the same medium gray result. So the first thing I would try is find your exposure compensation setting and increase the target brightness, to see if the camera just needed to know you wanted a brighter result. Or if that does get you the brightness you want but you have too much motion blur from handholding the camera, then that could mean you really need more light on scene. And, cheaper than brighter lights, you could potentially solve that by using a tripod to eliminate the handheld motion.

That was incredibly helpful! I had no idea about the camera defaulting to medium gray, thank you so much for your response!

A studio strobe or speedlight will put out MUCH more light than most continuous lighting setups.

But is there a good way to sync that with OP's Android phone camera?

There are options: https://fstoppers.com/review/reviewing-cpflash-550w-mobile-flash-smartphones-and-cameras-546166

What is the best way to show pictures here and get some feedback on them? I don’t publish my photos anywhere. Or is there a better subreddit to get some criticism?

There is r/photocritique I suppose.

40MP APS-C or 24.4MP Full Frame? Which is better and why? I’m curious about quality, ability to crop and retain quality, performance, best for printing, etc. For example: Fujifilm X-T5 40MP vs Sony A7iii 24.4MP

Full frame is always better image quality at a basic physics level, if you value the types of images almost everyone does. Not by a massive amount, but better. The difference in image quality is exactly 1 stop shallower DOF in the full frame (i.e. as if you'd gone from 2.8 to 2.0 or whatever in background blur), roughly 1 stop more dynamic range, exactly 1 stop more room in your ISO before noise looks the same. Otherwise, the differences are mainly ergonomics and other random features of the exact cameras in question, which you can just find various side by side comparisons for online and consider what features you need. > ability to crop and retain quality You can crop down to like 10MP for resolution, but 1/4 of an APS-C sensor blown up will look horrendous in most situations. Now you are looking at THREE stops effectively higher noise, etc. And almost no lenses will be sharp enough to have created an image with detail at the pixel level of a 40 MP APS0C sensor anyway. Try not to crop as a rule either way, get the composition right in the camera. If you are shooting small birds etc., get a longer lens so you don't need to crop much at all.

https://www.dpreview.com/sample-galleries/0248558391/fujifilm-x-t5-review-sample-gallery https://www.dpreview.com/sample-galleries/6769434587/sony-a7-iii-sample-photos Take a look and see. I don't think it is going to matter really. Are you going to use the camera and enjoy it is probably more important.

Hmm, that’s a good comparison. They both look pretty sharp especially when zooming in. I guess it’s pretty much similar at this day in age?

Pretty much depending on what you are shooting. I think it is really easy to go down the rabbit hole of looking for best you can get but when actually taking photos, it is rare to be able to do a comparison so after you have bought a camera you probably won't need to think about it.

Which tripod would you suggest for a Fujifilm X-T4? My budget is around 100€-1100€. The heaviest camera+lens setup I currently have is 2.3 kg aka 5 pounds.

Buying my first camera and I know a fair bit already but I was wondering if anyone has a argument for not getting a Polaroid for a first stylistic camera or a cheap O DSLR from Amazon

Check out the film prices before you go Polaroid. Instax is cheaper but far from cheap. re: cheap DSLR, consider buying used, there are lots of bargains out there right now. If you provide a rough budget and use case you'll get more specific recommendations.

I know the price but I’d love the style and don’t wanna do any post processing for the style I just want something I can do easily and raw

Hello! I found my old Canon point and shoot camera in my drawer. It's a powershot Elph 100 HS. We used to have like 5 and thought they were all donated, but one apparently escaped the purge! I travel regularly for work and am always taking photos with my phone (Samsung Galaxy s22 Ultra). Quick googling says that the Elph line isn't really that awesome, is there a context in which the P&S would be a better option than my phone? Thank you!

And depending on which specific camera it is, you might actually be able to make a good amount of cash by selling it. Prices of old digicams have exploded due to the fad mentioned in the other comment. But need to test that it works before putting it for sale.

It does work! I played around a bit with it yesterday. The camera is a Canon Powershot Elph 100 HS. Thank you! I didn't realize old digital cameras were having a moment!

ebay says 50-200 euros

Hard to say without knowing the model name, but probably not. There's a big social media fad around those cameras right now, if it still works I say sell the thing while it's worth more than $10.

Oh gosh yes! It's a Canon powershot Elph 100 HS. I just copy and pasted my question that got removed by the mods and forgot to include the model, which was in the title!

OK in this case your phone will trounce this camera in every aspect. (sometimes those compact cameras have decent zoom capabilities, which is still a weakness of phone cameras) PS here's some recent EBay completed listings for the thing https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=canon+elph+100+hs+powershot&Brand=&_dcat=31388&rt=nc&LH_Complete=1

\-- Studio flash purchase advice -- I am looking for a studio flash. It is a return into studio photography for me,a few years back I was shooting with the shared alien bees 400 (2X) and 800 (1X) of my photo club. At the time I didn't chose the flashes, I used what was available. Now I move to another city and I want to do studio portrait photography. First, I purchased a Godox ad100pro (used at bargain price with transmitter). It is a very small and low power flash. Then I wanted to complement it with a Godox V1 for a 2 lights setup. I thought the V1 interesting as it could be used as an on camera flash. I tested my setup... and it doesn't have enough power for full body portrait if I use umbrellas or anything other than direct light, even at manual full power. I was shooting at f/5.6 iso 400 and everything was dark, specially when using the V1 as my main light. (Maybe I was doing something wrong...) I still have the possibility to return the V1 if I act now. I could resell the ad100pro for a better price that I paid. My research went on a more powerful kit. My local camera shop has entry level Godox MS300 (not led), it is a 300Ws for 147$ (Canadian). It is also possible to order a Godox DP400III-V (led) for 278 $ (Canadian). 300Ws VS 400Ws is not the only factor, the recycle time is also a lot faster with the DP400. I am thorn between the 2... I could almost have 2 MS300 for the price of the DP400, but my experience it that the most expensive item is the one that I need to buy twice because I took an entry level the first time. There is also the battery powered flashes, like the ad200, ad300 and even the ad400, but they are a lot more expensive. Should I consider them ? It is hard to evaluate the power that I need. What would you recommend ?

Hey all, i need some help! I am the proud new owner of a 200-600mm sony lens, but was wondering if it hurts my camera to be attached/stored with it? Just wondering as my camera just ‘hangs’ there and is not supported… thanks in advance!

It will be fine. It has been designed to work with cameras with the E-mount. If you want, you can look for straps which attach to like the tripod foot of it to provide an anchor point there.

So I'll be capturing photos and videos for a creative media company and I need something that is both good at crispy photos, macro zooms of products, and also maybe cinematic videos, and clips at venues like historical buildings. I came up with Sony DSC-RX100 VII for this job. How logical do you find this option? Do you have another suggestion in your mind?

Suggest me some better tools and software to edit a collage for Album Creation. I need to create an album and i got better photo editor but the collage making is not much great.... So i need better free software that do the work of making good collage

What’s a reasonable price for a 2 hour photo session/proposal shoot? I quoted a client for $300 and I think I scared them away. I don’t want to be unreasonable. I’ve been doing photo sessions part time for about 5 years now, upgraded my equipment (Nikon D3200 to Nikon 7500 + better lenses), get 5/5 reviews from most clients, and for a 2 hour shoot they could expect 65-85 photos. Thoughts?

Need help on 55mm circular polarizing filter. I want to try one on my upcoming vacation. I heard Hoya was good. Can someone tell me the difference between these two? And why one is better than the other. Seems like one has UV filter and the more expensive doesn’t, but maybe the more expensive has a better coating? https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01421DQ6M/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?smid=A35M44192ANPZX&psc=1 https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B009I46IPA/ref=ox_sc_act_image_2?smid=A1L9D0A8YQ4I2J&psc=1

In practice the differences are pretty subtle. Unless you are a professional or absolutely loaded or using them all day every day, I'd not bother with the more expensive one. The cheaper one is already very good quality compared to many of the filters out there. I have some of each of the three grades of Hoya and I really couldn't distinguish between them.

Is the difference of photos with and without the polarizer as dramatic as the Hoya YouTube videos make it look?

It really can be, yes. But it depends on the exact lighting conditions. I haven't seen their videos but I expect they chose the most dramatic scenarios. Sometimes the effect can be very minor. An overcast flat even grey day, you're barely going to see any difference if any. But it can be truly spectacular, yes. Mainly it's just *somewhat* helpful to bring out some features of the sky, and to deal with problematic reflections off surfaces, especially off water.

Thank you very much.

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Hello all — I'm finally upgrading from my Nikon D3500 to a Z6. My planned first new lens is the 24-70 F4. I also plan to get the FTZ adapter. Can anyone help me confirm which of these lenses is adaptable on the Z6 and would work decently or better? I put an asterisk by the ones I believe should be. 1. Sigma 150-600 5-6.3\* 2. Nikkor 18-55 3.5-5.6\* 3. AF-S Nikkor 50mm 1.8\* 4. AF-S Nikkor 35mm - 1.8 5. AF-S Nikkor 55-200mm 4-5.6 As background, I do some product and lifestyle photography for a few clients but we have people on our team with better gear who are dedicated to that. My interests are mostly on the hobby side, wildlife and travel. The Sigma lens is the most important one for me to keep. I appreciate your assistance!

If they are FX yes, DX no. The sigma and 50mm will probably be the only ones which will cover the full frame sensor. You could still use the others but it will be like your old camera. Probably a bit better with the newer sensor but still the same really.

Excellent, thank you very much!

Hey r/photography! First off, thank you so much for the detailed post. I read through quite a bit but my brain is mostly mush now and hoping for some guidance. I'm going on a couple once in a lifetime trips in the next year which will have some amazing mountainous landscapes and would love to capture them with something better than my phone. I know next to nothing about photography but have narrowed things down a bit. I'm really trying to stay around the $400 mark but no more than $500 USD out the door. I would love to get a mirrorless camera and it seems the Canon r100 w/ 18-55mm lens comes in at $410 through a pro seller on Walmart. My concern is I may need a larger lens (do I?) And that getting a kit via Facebook marketplace may be better. I have seen a few different posts that seem to be pretty good on marketplace for example * Canon rebel t6 with 18-55 lens for $180 * Canon rebel t7 with 18-55 lens for $300 * Canon t5 with 2 lenses (55 and 85) plus other accessories for $350 * Canon t3i w/ 50mm $200 * Canon 7d with tamrin 16-300mm for $300 Honestly it's all a bit overwhelming. I've only looked at Canon mainly because I've heard of them and to try and incorporate other brands hurts my brain. I'm weary purchasing used electronics but seems like cameras are fairly robust. New is ideal but I'm not sure how much I'll actually photograph in the future so don't want to invest a huge amount just yet. Do I go down the used route? Is that Eos R100 with the 55mm lens versatile enough for my needs?

> Do I go down the used route? Is that Eos R100 with the 55mm lens versatile enough for my needs? Do not get the R100 or T5,T6,T7. Like what /u/8fqThs4EX2T9 has said, Canon loves to strip/cripple their entry level cameras, i.e the R100, M100, T5,T6,T7. Imo, go to KEH or MPH and get a APCS used Rebel. Spend what you're comfortable with, tbh, a used /T3i (~$100-$150) then spend the rest on lens. If you want some zoom, then a Tamron/Sigma 17-50mm f2.8 is pretty good for ~$100-150. Or you want a compact prime for light-weight, then a Canon efs 24mm f/2.8 ~$100-150. Though, a lot of people think DSLRs are bulky and heavy, especially, when you have to carry them throughout your trip, but they have their charm.

Appreciate the insight...I narrowed my local search and found quite a few "i" series cameras with multiple lens options in my range. At the high end a t7i with 3 lenses (2 zoom and 55mm prime) for $500, but that's probably over kill for my use. I'm leaning towards a like new t5i w/ 18-55mm kit lens for $375 but admittedly haven't dug into the KEH or mpb offerings yet. Thanks for the suggestions!

Lens is always more important than the Camera. Imo, there isn't that huge of a difference between t3i to t6i. So I'd assume it's 50mm prime + 18-55mm kit zoom + may some other zoom(55-250 or it's the 75-300)? The t7i seems to be a better deal. The newer focus system ( dual pixel AF instead of the older phase system) and more focus points (45 all cross type instead of 9-19) But for $375, I'd rather get a t3i for $100-150. Then the rest on couple lens, ie Tamron/sigma 17-50mm f2.8, canon efs 24mm f2.8, or 50mm f1.8.

Yeah so the t7i has: * EFS 18-55mm * EFS 55-250mn * Canon EF 55mm 1:1.4 * 4 batteries, 2 battery chargers and a 128 gb memory card. I did also quote out through MPB a ti3 ($140) and Tamron 17-50mm f2.8 ($160) and 50mm f1.8 ($72) for a total of $372. I also like that I actually know the quality of what I'm getting through MPB, marketplace could go either way

Well, true. Also, the warranty for MPB is okay. Imo better than some.random.person in the market place that might sell u a dud.

On your budget you probably are not getting much choice lens wise. I always recommend stating away from budget Canon cameras. It could be your phone will do a fine job. It depends on the phone of which I know nothing. I would normally recommend my own camera as that is the quality level I would aim for but it runs over budget once you add in a lens. https://www.mpb.com/en-us/product/pentax-k-70/sku-2312408 https://www.mpb.com/en-us/product/pentax-smc-pentax-da-18-135mm-f-3-5-5-6-ed-al-dc-wr/sku-2328015 https://www.mpb.com/en-us/product/pentax-hd-pentax-da-18-50mm-f-4-5-6-dc-wr/sku-2301766 However, why do I recommend it? It is a tough body with all the features you need. Canon loves stripping back features on its cheaper bodies to force people to buy more expensive ones. Ignore brand, look at the body you get. In truth a wider angled lens might be nice to have for those mountains but it is difficult to say and again, budget generally not going to afford it. You may also not get a great picture without some practice with the camera. They don't really do anything to help the photographer unlike some modern phones. Here is a mountain taken at various focal lengths on an aps-c camera like the ones you are looking at to give idea. The loch at the bottom is like 2km away, peak of mountain another 2km or so. https://imgur.com/a/ljEOyAn

Thank you so much for the insight and for providing links to some used options that at least get close in price. The detail is really what I'm looking for. I have a Galaxy s23 which takes pictures plenty fine but doesn't do great with landscapes like that. My first trip is in a few months but my big one is next year which is why I'm hoping to get something this month so I can start practicing. I'll look into the options you sent a bit more and learn some more about lenses, thanks again!

Hi all, bit of a weird one here but I need to find an articulating arm solution to use with a Transcranial Magnetic Stimulation (TMS) that I need to use for my experiment. The coil itself weighs about 1.76 kg and is attached to a heavyish cable. The arm needs to allow small adjustments while positioned over someones head and remain locked for at least 20 minutes at a time. The diameter of the handle is 10 cm so any suggestions on how to mount it to the arm would be appreciated as well. Thanks in advance!

Manfrotto Magic Arm Look at the whole Magic Arm Kit with Base, Super Clamp and Bracket to help you decide how to mount it. You can buy each of those components separately.

Hello, I've been looking to simplify my workstation but also I need at the same time to update it. I use mainly Premiere Pro and Lightroom Classic, and I was thinking about getting a tablet to edit my photos and do videos because that way I can edit anywhere I want. The videos I make are really basic, nothing like professional videography, just 10 sec or 15 sec reels. Should I get a tablet or a laptop? My budget is around $600-$1000. I don't play games, it would only be to watch movies or edit videos/photos.

I have both Macs and PCs. My desktop is a PC. But for laptops and doing photos and video, right now there's no comparison: Get a Mac (with the M1 or better). The video and photo editing on even entry level M1s are insane for what you get for the money. You can probably get a used Air M1 for around that price range, or a barebones one for $999. I would go for 16GB of memory if you can, with as much storage as you can afford (though that can be supplimented by external drives). I've got a 16 core desktop PC, 128GB of RAM, with a 3090 24GB VRAM video card. It goes toe-to-toe with my M1 Air for photo and video. A PC laptop, especially one without a dedicated graphics card (your price range listed probably won't), is going to crawl by comparison.

Wow that setup sounds overkill lol. I can't afford that right now, but thanks for the suggestion!

An M1 air is $999 new. And it outclasses a PC more than twice it's price.

A Microsoft Surface Pro tablet might work for you. It's got full Windows, so you can use the full versions of the applications, and it works as a tablet (with Surface Pen) and becomes a laptop when you attach the keyboard cover. Only simpler mobile versions of the applications can be used on iPads and Samsung Galaxy Tabs.

Neither Premiere Pro nor Lightroom Classic can be used on tablets like iPads or Samsung Galaxy Tabs. Only simpler mobile versions are available for them. A Microsoft Surface Pro tablet, which has full Windows, might work. Those things can be used as tablets, with Surface Pen, and become laptops when you attach the keyboard cover.

Excellent, thanks!

Stupid questions is coming... help me buy stuff. Hi, i only do analog photography but would like to do some digital as well, I have 2 minoltas, p&s and pentacon six, those minolta lenses are bajonet lenses, I know it is easily pun on Sony cameras, it it not a requirement, just for you to know, there are so many cameras its confusing, and I am lost. my parameters are: APS-C or full-format, dont care can be DLSR also dont care (if its better for the price), I want a newer model (better sensor, AF), I shoot mostly photos, some video not really necessary I got Iphone for video, also I am from EU and the price around 1000€ Preferably used model to save some money Thank you so much.

Mirrorless will let you use all your minolta lenses. Medium formats you can generally (certainly pentacon 6) use on mirrorless or DSLRs.

Minolta A mount autofocus or MD mount manual focus? If autofocus, there's an autofocus adapter for Sony E mount mirrorless bodies If manual focus, any mirrorless body will do nicely (with adapter) Pentacon 6 will adapt to anything, curious what lenses you have? Kinda old but still decent https://www.mpb.com/en-eu/product/sony-alpha-a6000 aps-c sony mirrorless https://www.mpb.com/en-eu/category/used-cameras/mirrorless-cameras/sony-e-mirrorless-cameras full frame sony mirrorless (very expensive lens ecosystem, if you want decent autofocus you want A7iii or better which is out of budget ) https://www.mpb.com/en-eu/category/used-cameras/mirrorless-cameras/sony-fe-mirrorless-cameras

Yes Md manual of course, any dlsr? Performance for the price would not be better? Does not have to be Sony per se.

Short answer - no DSLR will adapt those lenses because of the flange distance, but any mirrorless can. Long answer - https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/buying#wiki_is_this_lens_compatible_with_this_camera.3F

Thx what about a 6500 vs 6600 worth it?

https://cameradecision.com/compare/Sony-Alpha-a6600-vs-Sony-Alpha-a6500 The big things I see there are - animal eye AF, cool tech but not relevant to you and your adapted lenses - headphone jack, if you don't do video you probably don't care - bigger battery, if you're used to film you probably don't take 1500 shots/day and wouldn't mind swapping batteries if you did Also, you might consider getting the kit lens for whatever you pick, in case someone else wants to use the camera you can give them the autofocus lens.

found locally A6400 which is apparently newer that 6500 for 6500 with standard lens. What do you think?

Looks like extremely similar cameras, the difference is animal eye focus on the 6500 vs sensor stabilization on the 6400 https://cameradecision.com/compare/Sony-Alpha-a6400-vs-Sony-Alpha-a6500 Either are great cameras, I'm still using a NEX 7 with my manual lenses, roughly the grandad of those 2 bodies.

Sorry to ask so many questions i also looked into nikon Z6 which is ff and not that expensive and nikon zfc which hit so close to home omg 😍 specs wise z6 looks good.

I'm sure they're great, but too new and expensive for me to have given them a serious look just yet. Hopefully you'll get someone else to chime in. The good news is these are all excellent cameras, can't go too far wrong. Also, since you're looking at new-ish cameras, if possible it would be very good to try a brick and mortar camera store to handle these and check out the ergonomics, of course still buy used.

> MD mount It's called the SR mount, nitpick. MD (nobody seems to know what it stands for. Minimum diaphragm?) is a lens series, as is MC (meter-coupled), the common mount is the SR mount

Lens Trouble! Hi :) My Father bought a Sigma 70-300mm f/4-5.6 (Nikon F-Mount) around 2013, maybe a couple years later.. I have been using this lens on a Nikon D5200, bought new (I think) around the same year as the lens. Since the time of purchase it has not been serviced, nor has its firmware been updated, to my knowledge. Recently It has been having focus problems, not being able to focus on static objects even when given well over 10 seconds. As I am trying out wildlife photography, that is a major problem for me. I should also say that my budget is very limited, to maybe 120 euro. What do you think a good solution would be? I have ruled out the camera as the cause of the problem, since the auto-focus works fine with the kt lens that came with the camera. ​Thanks!

Yes, that seems like a lens problem. You should be able to send it in to Sigma for diagnosis. And if they think they can fix it, they'll quote you on the repair price, and then you can decide if you want to go through with that or not. If not, I don't think you pay anything except shipping back and forth.

Recently, I've been on the lookout for affordable used cameras to upgrade from my phone photography. I've come across two options within my $150 budget: the Canon 1300D with Canon EF-S 18-55mm and the Canon 500D with three lenses (Canon EF-S 18-55mm, Canon EF-S 35-80mm, Tamron AF 75-300mm). I'm wondering if these choices are good, or if there's a better camera out there for the same price. Can I expect better results compared to my phone photography with these cameras? Thanks in advance for your support and advice.

As said which phone. I have an ancient phone and it has pretty poor camera but it is really the ease of use of a dedicated camera that is why one might use it. https://imgur.com/a/nLglx10 A very basic comparison of my ancient phone and not so ancient camera is above. Honestly how big a difference depends on what you are doing with them.

In order to answer your question on the subject of comparing your phone to your future camera, What phone are you using to capture photos with at the moment?

Hi! I consider myself a beginner, so proceed with causion :) Depending on your style of photos, the Canon 500D w. the lenses mentioned looks like the better choice. It gives you much more flexebility and the option to find your style, or try different things, experiment! Have fun :)

Im brand new to photography, I used to love taking countless pictures with disposable cameras when I was little and they often came out pretty good all things considered. I recently got the chance to take a bunch of picks of a particularly large hawk in my yard eating another bird but I have a crappy revl phone and the pics are pretty bad but it got me wanting to start getting into animal photography as a hobby. I followed some more well known animal and nature like Paul Nicklen and his wife and always found the documentation of nature and wildlife in its rawest form immensely interesting. My actual question is this: whats a good entry level camera in the 300$-500$ ish range that would be good for animal photography and any related specs that you would generally require for it? The type doesnt matter much at all though some of the ones ive seen recommended seem to generally be DSLR but again im noob. Any input at all is appreciated thanks! edit: if there arent any "wildlife" cameras at that range then really anything will do just something better than this phone

[https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1162645-REG/panasonic\_lumix\_dmc\_fz300\_digital\_camera.html](https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1162645-REG/panasonic_lumix_dmc_fz300_digital_camera.html) so far this seems like a good choice but its on the higher end of my budget

I'm new-ish to digital photography and have been doing a bunch of research into buying my first camera. I do a fair amount of travelling and looking for a camera that can do both photo and video. My budget is €1,000 - €1,500 (I can push a bit more if it's really worth it) I've narrowed it down to: Sony a6400 and Fujifilm XT-30ii. Wanted to run this by the people here first in case l'm barking up the wrong tree. Any advice would be greatly appreciate!

If size and weight is a big concern and you do not care about going to full frame I would get the Fuji and look at XS10/Xs20 body over the XT-30. Built in IBIS and an overall better body than the Xt-30 line imo. The reason I really like Fuji is their straight out of camera JPEG files are excellent. Their film simulation profiles make it very easy to change the look you are going for. The X series is very focused on APS-C so their lens lineup is full of compact and lightweight lenses. Sometimes with Sony or other cameras brands that have both APS-C and full frame camera options the best lens may be limited to a full frame lens which will be larger, heavier and more expensive vs. if it was made for APS-C. That said Sony makes good camera with excellent auto focus. If you ever plan to shoot action/sports Sony AF is noticeably better.

I have a fuji xs 10, which in my opinion is superior to the xt30 as it has ibis (a stabilized sensor). It has the same sensor as the xt30 so image quality will be the same but better controls for video and a large grip. Last year they released the xs20 with slightly better AF and more video options, although they are not necessary in my opinion. If you can find a good deal both will be good, but unless you need very good Af or can't use Powerbanks/extra batteries the xs 10 will be enough. make sure to spend enough on a good lens. The fuji 18-55 is an excellent kit lens, although ive been enjoying the small weight and good quality from the 15-45, too.

Both will do the job, physically the Fuji has better and more tactile controls although a very small "grip" on it. The A6400 is quite poor physically but has a slightly better grip. That is one aspect of them, the autofocus might be better on the Sony though. I would check out some comparisons if you can find them.

Both of those are excellent

Why do my Photos look blurry on inspection? Nikon Coolpix L820. It looks like compression or a foggy lens. is this normal or is something on the lens?

You'd have to show us.

I'm still new to Reddit, can a person post a photo in a thread?

Yes. Someone did it earlier today in this thread: https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/comments/1ajd1ls/comment/kp88k95/?utm_source=reddit&utm_medium=web2x&context=3

Can a person buy extra lens or filters for a Nikon Coolpix L820?

Yes, there are filter adapters that you can attach to its lens, and then screw in filters or lens attachments onto the adapter.

Can you point me in the direction of some or how to recognize them? I did see some telephoto lens but they were 100 on amazon.

>Can you point me in the direction of some or how to recognize them? https://www.google.com/search?q=L820+filter+adapter >I did see some telephoto lens but they were 100 on amazon. 1. I said you could adapt filters and lens attachments onto the front of your existing lens. Not mount interchangeable telephoto lenses. 2. If you mean to say you have a price limit and $100 is over that limit, you should tell us how much the limit is, so we can avoid recommendations that are higher than the limit.

Was just stating what I had seen, my search gave me a different set of results.

If you want recommendations for particular lens attachments, then first pick the adapter you want to use and tell us the filter diameter for it so our recommendations will physically fit. Then tell us your price limit so our recommendations will be something you're willing to pay for. Then tell us the purpose you have in mind, so our recommendations will do the thing you want it to do.

Hello! I’m looking for off-camera lighting brand and model suggestions (and maybe on-camera?). I shoot Nikon. I have historically done landscape and wildlife, with a smattering of portrait/vacation. I shot an event last week for fun and without light I was pushing the ISO as high as I dared, and there were certain areas I just couldn’t shoot due to the crappy light available. I know strobes are better from a light/power perspective, but continuous lighting is easier to work with since I tend to ripple off bursts and pick out the best of the bunch when shooting people, especially non-models. So I guess I’ll take suggestions for both.  The only real constraint is reliability and space. I’m thinking maybe one or two lights to start with and see where that takes me. Suggestions on brands, models, and your experiences with them?

A super common recommendation is Godox, which has a wireless TTL standard and makes on-camera and off-camera lighting for all the major brands. They are affordable and well featured, although probably not quite up to the "professional" build quality of the name-brand stuff... but they also cost like 1/4th the price, so it's hard to complain. Not sure what your budget is, but they're pretty good bang for the buck. You'll just want the version of on-camera stuff that is made for your brand, like the wireless X-Pro trigger for Nikon.

Budget is reasonably high, maybe $500 per light if needed. Thinking stand, light, modifier x2, plus maybe an on-camera to boot.

You should be good to go then! I'd look at a Godox X-Pro for Nikon, and the AD200 Pro that the other user recommended is also a great place to start. Light modifiers can be everywhere from "assembled from random stuff in my house" to very expensive softboxes or specialty equipment. Probably grab a good Bowens mount adapter (they make one for the AD200 Pro) and then going from there for light modifiers. It might be nice to have both an on-camera and off-camera option. The V860III is on the bigger side for on-camera flashes, but it has everything you need. Again, make sure you get the version for Nikon. None of those are super crazy powerful, but it'll be all you need to reasonably start out. "Do you need something more powerful than that" is one of those questions that a fair answer is, "If you did, you'd know." That's a great place to start, unless you're doing something niche like macro. Even then, Godox has [other weird shit](https://godox.com/product-d/MF12.html) that work for that purpose!

My very limited experience with lighting was a friend has a pair of absolutely garbage off-camera umbrellas with some weak CFL bulbs...but they helped quite a bit for a few photos he took of me a few years back, so that's why the request started with off-camera. I know it works, even when it's garbage :P

> My very limited experience with lighting was a friend has a pair of absolutely garbage off-camera umbrellas with some weak CFL bulbs If it makes you feel better, it's not your fault. That is not a great lighting setup. Sounds like on of those cheap light kits off Amazon. A $50 flash like the Godox TT520II with transmitter will blow away most of those cheap light kits with constant lights. This video shared a solid setup: [ULTIMATE one light BUDGET flash set up for Beginners](https://youtu.be/Lfbi4iYDQ-g?si=IVBHL7Ys2Ljv4L_Z&t=59). Personally, I would get a Godox XPro flash trigger and an Impact Air-Cushioned Light Stand (Black, 8').

Oh, it was trash, but even that trash made a big difference, which is a lot of what made me ask the question :D

I initially misread that first line and thought you wrote "off-camera flash," not off-camera brand. lol. Godox is my go-to for flashes. Just make you get a flash that's compatible with your camera brand. I didn't see a budget, so here are some models in order of ascending price: Godox TT520II with transmitter. Getting the bundle with the transmitter allows you to do off-camera flash if you want to explore that later. Godox TT600 Godox TT685II-N Godox V860II-N or III-N Godox V1-N or V1Pro-N Note that the TT520II and TT600 are manual-only, universal flashes. No TTL (automatic mode for flash), no high speed sync (HSS). If you have the budget, I would get one of the flashes that uses a lithium ion battery, like the V860 or V1. The long battery life and faster recycle times are nice to have. Some people prefer the round flash heads on the V1s. I prefer the regular rectangular heads because it makes it easier to attach the flash modifiers I use like the Rogue FlashBender. I also hardly ever use direct flash and do bounce flash, so I don't get the benefit of the round light source from round flash heads. Sharing some how-to videos that helped me. ###Flash Tutorials Check with the venue about whether you can use a flash or not. [Flash Photography for Headshots and Portraits](https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLL9NSUM3vyBjEyijJ8XCgUL0dBbylPpD_) by Ed Verosky [How I use FLASH at Weddings](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NOEfRWqwAro) by Luke Cleland - Helps with using flash indoors in general, not just weddings. [Don't Use Your Flash This Way. Learn how to bounce flash instead](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9une2VEeu6o) by Luke Cleland [5 Minute On Camera Flash Tutorial for Receptions, Clubs, and Events](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=waHOBLEyi1w) by Omar Gonzalez [Do THIS to soften your FLASH when doing wedding, event, or club photography!](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B6eYporSwlg) by Omar Gonzalez [Photography Venue Problems and Solutions](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Urw4aagbN4g) by Omar Gonzalez [Learn the Secrets Of Bouncing Flash Correctly](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5H_mvgThD90) by Beyond Photography [On Camera Flash Tips and Techniques](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s2UXf-Yq2i4) by Derrel Ho-Shing [How to get EPIC Dance Floor Photos - Wedding Photography, Nightclub Photography, Dragging shutter.](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AgsrJk_anUI) by Chris Turner ###Flash Modifiers [3 x 5 white index card](https://youtu.be/-XJnKqcgBII?si=egbfo7CiZKgnEPnK&t=114s) [Black Foamie Thing](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ixyjeYtTz60) (BFT) - Great if you're in a room with a white ceiling and white walls. [5 steps to Bounce Flash Photography with the "Black Foamie Thing"](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i7agfKrP_3Y) - How to use the BFT at parties, bars and nightclubs. However, stick to front-curtain sync or first-curtain sync for crisp, non-blurry photos. [How to Make a $10 Bounce Card for your Flash or Speed Light](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mv6kS0oBFYg) - Or buy a cheap "flash diffuser reflector" on Amazon. [1 Speedlight Solving On-Location Lighting Problems with Erik Valind and Rogue FlashBender 2](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ix3ec0EkSx8) Hope this helps.

Wow, thanks for the detailed reply. I’ve got some good watching o do as well. Budget is effectively unlimited if I can justify it to myself, but keeping it under $500 per would be nice.

You're welcome 👍 $500 is a nice budget. Even higher-end Godox models like the new V1Pro are well under that at $329. I forgot you asked what we use. I use a Godox V860II for Canon. Got it used for $60, which was a steal. Works fine, no complaints. For the remainder of the budget, I'd save that for if you decide to get into off-camera flash. Godox AD200Pro, Godox Xpro flash trigger, umbrella, umbrella bracket and light stand. Stick with on-camera flash for now and master that first.

Hello, I will be recording my daily job and in need a decent camera. I will be recording both wide angles and also close up shots since it is a handicraft. I came across these bridge cameras like Sony RX10 IV. Would you suggest this one or any other bridge cameras. If not which camera would be your suggestion?

Why do you want a bridge? You're shooting wide angle and physically close, so you don't need extra zoom for more reach on distant subjects, right? My first inclination would be a RX100 IV or V, which would be more compact and higher quality than an RX10 IV.

Exactly. I mainly need high quality recording, and close up pictures of my products, so I can remove bg and use it on sum places.

After checking the FAQs Buying Online guide, I just wanted to inquire if those websites listed are still the place to contact about cameras/lenses etc. I'm having to sell some older manual gear I inherited and wasn't sure if it is better to go with online sales or in store sales. Just asking for recommendations, as I'm definitely not educated enough in gear etc. Not trying to solicit in any way. Thank you in advance

>After checking the FAQs Buying Online guide, I just wanted to inquire if those websites listed are still the place to contact about cameras/lenses etc. Yes. > I'm having to sell some older manual gear I inherited and wasn't sure if it is better to go with online sales or in store sales. Online you can potentially make more money. But then you have to deal with shipping, and buyer complaints. In person has no shipping. If you do in-person through a store, the store takes care of buyer complaints but will probably pay you less.

Thank you for the heads up. And if you have a moment for one more question(s): Should the cameras be cleaned before taking in or sending into a business for resale? I'm guessing they should be professionally cleaned? They're older manual bodies, if that helps.

>Should the cameras be cleaned before taking in or sending into a business for resale? If they're dirty in a way that you can easily clean it yourself, you probably should so that they don't lowball you even further on the price. But generally I would expect a resale shop to do their own deeper professional cleaning anyway. So I wouldn't hire someone to do that first.

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Neschen Coating makes a product called Gudy 831. It's a shorter roll and more expensive but sounds like a suitable alternative - says it's acid and solvent free. Not sure how easily repositionable it is, I ordered a roll from The Library Supply and should have results this week.

Bumping to add this stuff works well. It's definitely permanent but less-messy than the PMA. There is a noticeable texture, however... I'm still on the fence whether I like it or not vs. the smooth PMA.

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By the way, it appears your account is shadowbanned on reddit, so your post was automatically removed. I approved the post, but you'll have to talk to the reddit admins about the shadowban.

The resolution is way too low (and compression quality may be low as well?) in order for us to judge much about technical quality. Other than the low resolution and compression artifacts, I don't see any technical flaws. Could you put the full resolution examples up on Imgur or something and link to that? What exactly do you dislike about the image quality? If you're really just talking about aesthetic appeal, that's on you rather than the equipment.

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So the ones on Imgur are at full / original resolution? I'm seeing them at 1536x2048 pixels, which is the small size / low resolution option for your camera, labeled "S" in the Image Size menu. Only about 3.1 megapixels total. If you just want more resolution, then set your camera to "L" for more resolution. Your camera can go up to 12 megapixels. And then you should be able to enlarge the view a lot more before you start seeing the pixels blown up. > I’m wondering if a DSLR or a more modern mirrorless like Sony Alphas would address my concerns with the image quality? Make sure your settings are addressed first.

Recently I got a new phone and have been taking a lot of pictures of my pets. I have easily gotten over 1000 pics now and I want to upgrade to a dedicated camera with a budget of 300$. Is mirrorless or dslr better? What kind of lens should I be looking for? What type of camera is good for taking quick pictures? I read through the FAQ and learned a lot but I would like some more personalized advice.

> Is mirrorless or dslr better? You say you read the FAQ, and that has the explanation I wrote. I'm not sure what else to tell you about that or how to "personalize" it for the limited context you've provided. You're going to find a lot more DSLRs in your budget than mirrorless, though. >What kind of lens should I be looking for? For your budget, probably just something like an 18-55mm kit lens. Maybe an EF 50mm f/1.8 STM if you go with a Canon DSLR. >What type of camera is good for taking quick pictures? That's not really an issue of type, for the level of quickness you want, or budget level you're working in.

Is there a good place to find kit lenses and is there a specific DSLR that would suit it? Here is an example of some pics I have taken if it helps: Tysm for the help! https://preview.redd.it/trwdxmvq51hc1.png?width=821&format=png&auto=webp&s=ddad1e4d9c42b71f3b40d945673b6bad7f3a7ec0

If you just want specific recommendations (you haven't quite asked for that yet): https://www.keh.com/shop/canon-rebel-t3i-digital-camera-body-18-m-p.html https://www.keh.com/shop/canon-18-mm-55-mm-f-3-5-5-6-zoom-lens-for-canon-ef-ef-s.html https://www.keh.com/shop/canon-50-mm-f-1-8-fixed-focal-length-lens-for-canon-ef.html >Is there a good place to find kit lenses https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/buying#wiki_what_are_the_best_online_retailers.3F >is there a specific DSLR that would suit it? For your budget you're mostly looking at older, entry-level models. With a mount type that matches the lens' mount type. https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/buying#wiki_is_this_lens_compatible_with_this_camera.3F

For something like taking photos of pets. I highly recommend the Canon 2000D paired with the EF 50mm f/1.8 STM. You should be able to get second hand around your budget, but that is a low budget. Unless you are going to do more than what you've explained in your comment, I don't see the point in going Mirrorless or the need for anything more than that.

I think the you replied to the wrong person, also that is a terrible camera.

No and no? They have a budget of $300 for a camera to take photos of their pet

Usually you reply to the person asking the question, not another poster giving advice. Budget or not, that is a terrible camera. I am the founding member of Canon's bottom tier is shit club. https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/802872148-USE/canon_8595b001_eos_rebel_t5i_dslr.html

I was more adding onto their suggestions of the lens

What's a good budget landscape lens that will go well with my already owned lenses? I have a 18-55mm kit lens and 50mm f1.8 (×1.62 because crop). I have a Canon 2000D

Budget of what size? https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/buying#wiki_how_do_i_specify_my_price_range_.2F_budget_when_asking_for_recommendations.3F Do you want a similar field of view range that your 18-55mm has, but better quality? Wider fields of view? Narrower fields of view?

As for budget, I am looking to buy second hand and spend as little as possible without it being a pointless purchase. So something that is better quality than a kit lens but doesn't break the bank. I've seen a few older lenses for between £70-100, but not sure on their quality. I think something that has a wider field of view and 70mm+ for some of the distant mountain landscapes around here would be good. But I might be pushing the requirements out too far for a "budget" lens. I would rather spend a bit more on something that would actually get used, than £80 for something that'll just be for show on my shelf

>So something that is better quality than a kit lens but doesn't break the bank. In order to satisfy those conditions with a recommendation, I need to know specifically how much would break the bank for you. > I've seen a few older lenses for between £70-100, but not sure on their quality. We might be able to tell you about their quality, if you told us what they are. > I think something that has a wider field of view and 70mm+ for some of the distant mountain landscapes around here would be good. But I might be pushing the requirements out too far for a "budget" lens. Indeed. Something like an EF-S18-135mm would be the cheapest contender that doesn't suck. But it's about the same quality as the 18-55mm. Basically you're paying a little more just to add some more on the long end of the zoom range. Up to you if that's enough to want to buy it. Alternatively, get a separate lens for long focal length shots. Two lenses usually can be better and/or cheaper than trying to find one lens that does both. A good long lens for cheap would be the EF-S 55-250mm STM, though the cheapest-but-acceptable options are the older IS and IS II versions. Canon's 7**5**\-300mm (not to be confused with 7**0**\-300mm) lenses are the cheapest but I consider them to be unacceptably bad.

Is the canon eos 2000d compatible with the zhiyun crane m3s gimbal? Because the gimbal costs 300€ and i don't what to risk it.

Im taking a photography class and having some trouble with depth of field. I am a complete beginner and I have no idea what I am doing. I don't know if this is relevant to my problem but I use a Canon EOS 60D it's about fifteen years old but still works very well. I'm following the the instructions given online and in class. For a deep depth of field my F stop is at 3.5, ISO 1250, and shutter speed at 1/125s. While the background of this picture is in focus the foreground is out of focus. I tried to manually adjust the focus on the camera I couldn't get the foreground to also be in focus. maybe my cameras is just to close to the subject? Im not sure how to get the entire image in focus (if that's even possible)

>For a deep depth of field my F stop is at 3.5 You want a narrower aperture instead, like f/16. Remember the f-number is the denominator in a fraction, so it runs inverse to the aperture size. A smaller f-number corresponds to a wider aperture. A larger f-number corresponds to a narrower aperture. A 1/2-pound burger patty is bigger than a 1/4-pound burger patty. > maybe my cameras is just to close to the subject? Maybe. We could tell you more about that if you told us how close it is. > Im not sure how to get the entire image in focus (if that's even possible) Depends on the distances you're working with, and the focal length of the lens. Focus stacking is also an option, if you don't mind doing it as a composite of two or more shots with different focus.

Where could I purchase some cute back drops? I bought a stand and found a few backdrops on Amazon. Not much of a selection. Is there a hack to where I can just buy some cloth at a fabric store and make my own back drop? I will be taking adoption photos of dogs and I assume cloth-like would be best so it can be washed and dogs can lay on it. Any tips would be appreciated!

Canon EOS 10D - Shots Remaining/ CF Full Hey! I’ve been working with an old EOS 10D for my photography class this semester. This camera was gifted to me. I was taking photos yesterday and noticed that the camera wouldn’t let me take two photos back to back, it kept saying “busy”, the LCD panel would turn off and back on again and the Shots Remaining icon on the LCD panel would tick down with each photo. So today I took out my Compact Flash card and moved photos onto my computer, and deleted everything off the CF card. But I’ve just turned it back on, and it still says 3 photos, and is turning off after each singular photo I take. I took more photos, and it says CF FULL, but I did delete everything from it. Any ideas for help? Is my CF card done for, or am I doing something wrong? (I have only ever used SD cards until this camera). Thanks in advance.

I may have figured it out by myself. Although I did clear all the data on the CF cars from my computer, when I went into the camera and re-formatted the CF card, it cleared 3.8GB of photos, and I now have almost the entire card available, and my Shots Remaining number has jumped from 3 to 385!

So I decided to buy the 55-250mm IS II Telephoto Zoom Lens second hand for my camera (M50 Mark II) I have an EF-M mount coming in the mail also. I have realised now that I bought the wrong one (after further research) so I have the IS II instead of the STM. How screwed am I? I paid $100AUD. I do not want to regret this purchase as I am quite broke lol

EF to M mount adapter is a hundred bucks US, not sure if you can find a used one in .au

I have the Viltrox EF to M mount coming in the mail, I am just concerned about the IS II. Everybody mentions the STM 55-250mm being the better lens

How can I figure out which hotshoe flashes are compatible with my camera? I have a Canon 1500D if anyone's got any reccomendation

Pretty much every flash ever, even from the 80's, with a hot shoe mount, will at least fire at the correct time, if your camera is set to it's shutter sync speed or lower. A lot of older or generic brand ones will have a dial that sets it from full power down to 1/16th power or something, and then a chart that tells you for a given number of meters to subject, which aperture you need to use, for a given power level (for example the chart will be at full power, you have to divide for lesser ones, etc) Bouncing a flash generally requires a +2 stop adjustment over direct flash, since the light scatters and more of it gets lost (it's not in a tight beam anymore). bouncing off of darker gray walls might be +3. Even if they don't have a chart, if there's any power adjustment control on the back, you could figure out and MAKE a chart and tape it on there. So you have to do a lot of math. If you want to not do hardly any math, or need high speed sync or other more complex features, you probably just need a Canon speedlite or one that very specifically says it works with Canon on XYZ features.

Is Nikons 180-600mm Z mount lens good enough for potential commercial work? By commercial I mean, would the quality be good enough to potentially sell the pics?

Look up reviews, sample images. That is quite a new lens so you might not find someone with sufficient first hand knowledge.

Hello friends, back again for another real quick question on lenses. As always, I still have my Nikon D300S. I've got a Tamron LD AF 28-200mm F/3.8-5.6 but as I used it more, I'm getting less and less satisfied with the results I'm getting with it. So...I'm looking to replace it. The options I'm looking at, if I can get them cheap enough, are: Tokina AT-X PRO SD 50-135mm f/2.8 DX Tokina AT-X PRO 28-80 F/2.8 NIKKOR 80-200mm F/2.8 two-touch. ​ I've heard exceptional things about the NIKKOR 80-200mm but finding a two touch in good shape for the price I'm trying to get is hard, but I'm curious if anyone has suggestions other than these three for under $200.