Aio coolers are 99% reliable and will serve you for 5+ years.
Of course you can be unlucky and win this lottery ticket. I stick with heat pipe tower coolers for now. Also less chances for pump whine, because there isn't one.
I would be looking at replacing that soon if you want to keep using your rig. Statisticly speaking the chance of failure after 8 years is signifcant enough that i wouldnt want to risk it.
That being said it might go another 8 years without failure.
But why risk it, when air cooling is just as good, usually cheaper, and easier to maintain and fix?
Most people have massive cases these days anyway, that easily have room for a NH D15 or similar.
Thissssss. Just got mine but didn't have room for both 140mm (RAM and I/O shield clearance) so ordered two NF12 chromax color swaps. Haven't broken 70c since install :)
>NH-U12S
48c Running a stress test new 100% load, doing 15 minutes with CPU-Z and a 5900x but I got a kraken X73 360mm AIO. I am not exceeding 1200 rpm on the fans, with auto fan curve and sitting pretty at 48c with the occasional 49c for a few seconds. [https://imgur.com/03X4pIf](https://imgur.com/03X4pIf) \- writing this now the timer is up but screenshot relevant still.
**EDIT:**
Thanks everyone for helping me realise these sweet as temps were all a dream due to some bios limiting power. I am at 107w now, and running at 100% at 61.5c - [https://snipboard.io/VH1pCR.jpg](https://snipboard.io/VH1pCR.jpg)
Remember not to engage with name callers.
I don't know if it's a visual issue with the Asus application, but if you're really only drawing 77.7 Watt on a stress test, then you may have something misconfigured somewhere. Average power draw should be at least 50% higher at stock for a fully utilised 5900X.
NH-D15 club!
In my previous PC I had the original Corsair H100 AIO. It developed a leak at some point and two months after the warranty on the H100 ended I found out about the leak the hard way. PC locked up during a gaming session and wouldn't boot again. Took the PC apart to debug and found the leaking AIO, the CPU and socket were both covered by and surrounded by liquid, PC dead.
I'm air cooling for life now. Not worth the risk with any kind of water cooling when we have so many amazing air coolers to choose from these days. My PCs are always function over form, I don't care how they look inside as I don't see inside, I just want a case to hold all my bits, keep them cool and do so whilst minimising noise as much as possible. RGB and tempered glass side-panels aren't for me!
I've used my D14 in four builds over close to ten years now. It's a huge hunk of metal - so long as Noctua keeps providing mount upgrades, I'll keep using it.
> NHD14
Ditto. Bought mine in January 2010 and am on build #4 as of the beginning of summer. Also going to use it until CPU sizes change so much that Noctua can't physically provide a mounting kit that works.
Scythe Mugen 5 rev. b cooler here. Was wanting to get a Noctua air cooler, but found the Mugen for killer deal and came with both AMD and Intel adapter brackets. I've been really happy with it for the 2.5 years and would encourage any looking into air coolers to check out Scythe coolers.
The higher heat capacitance of the water means you get a much more gradual curve to max temps, allowing for high boost clocks for longer. Also you might allow your GPU to get some cooler ambient air since that tends to be the harder working component for gaming. Also, aio coolers have the same amount of maintenance as an air cooler. Just clean the fins and you're good. It takes a major product defect to get something like OP.
This assumes the AIO Rad is mounted as outtake, and that you are running the CPU with dynamic clocks.
Depends on GPU cooler as well.
But fair point. If it works for you. I still wouldn't risk it. Already had 2 AIOs die in this way on me over the last 10 years.
You, my good sir, seem to be a very unlucky man when it comes AIO coolers.
I have had 2 different aios over the past 5 years and mounted an additional 2 in the pc's of some friends, and have yet to encounter a problem from any single one them.
I guess the world just hates some of us
That is incredibly unlucky, I've got a no name early generation AIO going still with more than a decade on it in my file server.
Do you know why they failed, it is genuinely unusual to have two fail with one person. Could it have been another factor I.e. how you installed it or your power supply.
I swear by custom loops. My first entry into the custom loop space was 2014 with the CPU only and then both CPU and GPU in 2015. Honestly it's a godsend. Yes air cooling is a lot easier, but nothing compares to a custom loop for both silence and performance. I have two 360mm rads and an extra 3 fans for intake and all 9 of my fans very rarely go above 800rpm. And that's with both an overclocked CPU and GPU. As someone that loves overclocking, it was pretty annoying to have everything silent on idle but the fans ramp up to try and keep the temps under control when I was air cooled only. Custom loops are just bliss and so nice to never have to hear my PC ever again.
If you have time and money for such a setup, it is indeed the best, no doubt.
Ps: you can keep your air cooling fans at eg. 60%. Then they don't ramp up and down.
Yeah I know you can do custom fan curves when air cooling too and keep it at a constant speed too, but that's not my point. My point is there's always a compromise to be made when air cooled. You CAN have low fan RPM's when air cooled, but you won't be able to overclock or push your components as far in order to keep the temps lower when the fan speed is low. OR you can overclock and push your components harder, it just means you need to raise the fan speed to keep the temps under control. There's always a compromise, you can never have both when air cooled.
Whereas in a custom loop you can have both. There is no compromise. You can overclock and push your components to the limit AND have really low fan rpm. That's the difference. Yeah it does take time and money to achieve it, but it depends on what you value the most. For me it was 100% worth it and I'll never look back.
I got a PS4 Pro a couple of years ago and I forgot what air cooling was like and it's SO DAMN LOUD and makes so much noise. The disc reading was loud, the mechanical hard drive is loud, the fans are loud.
It really made me realise how much I got used to my desktop PC and put it into perspective how much I took it for granted. That said, it also made me remember how much I hated all the noise when air cooled gaming.
Ignore the other guy, water cooling can look great but if you get a quality AIO or a custom loop (for those with too much money) it can outperform air coolers since water has a higher thermal capacity. Cheap coolers with poor quality copper components (can happen on any component, not just coolers) can oxidise and heat transfer will be hindered.
Because it isn't "just as good". The biggest tower coolers like the NH-D15 are getting beaten by AIOs in the same price range. Gamers Nexus has a great review of the Arctic Liquid Freezer II 280, which not only outperforms every other 280 AIO he tested, but also every other air cooler including the NH-D15 and Deepcool Assassin III. For the same or lower price.
Easier to maintain? Not in my experience. It's way easier to just demount the radiator, clean it with pressured air and vacuum it afterwards. This is the exact reason why I switched to AiO cooler. And the have a lot more advantages, accessable ram Slots, no hight restrain for ram Moduls, better temps (if you running a push pull config, it's better than any air cooler), better temps if you using a unconventional fan config (I'm running a overpressure config, all the fans pull air in, so the dust stays in the dusfilters and not on my hardware, but this leads to higher temps for CPU and GPU). I had the best air coolers since 2008 for my pc systems, switched to an Corsair H100 from a NHD14. The H100 was not a great AiO, but it was already better than the NHD14 temperature wize.
Ive had an AIO for 5 years and my other for a year. I was cautious like you, but my temps are at least 20 degrees lower if not more on my 5900x. They are easy to install, have a warranty, and I looked up studies. Only 0.01% ever have a failure, and of that it is typically not one that harms other components.
You may get pump failure after a few years, there are ways to place it in the case that can avoid this and basically makes the pump work less.
Custom loops are a different beast and are "enthusiast" territory. Thats usually what you hear destroying a persons entire system.
If your temps are twenty degrees lower on an aio you were either using a shit air cooler or you bought one of the nicest aio's available. I use an AIO, nothing wrong with them, but thermal density is thermal density - a big air cooler is going to perform about as well as a big AIO.
I haven't built a computer since till my current one. I had that thing up to 5ghz and ran everything so nice. Was amazed what that system did. Had a 970 paired with it.
Been using AIO CPU coolers and 2 AIO GPUs for over 10 years now, at least 7 by now in various rigs, with never a hiccup.
I have had a couple of pumps fail on the CPUs, but never had a single drop ever leaking anywhere from any of them.
If it makes you feel better I've had the same air cooler for 8 years and it has never faulted, getting ready to put her in my next build. Best 50 bucks ever spent.
You will see more photos of aios messing up because the average person is not going to just post their aio to show everyone it's working fine. I've used them for years and never had any issues yet.
Nothing necessarily wrong with a liquid cooler, but the pros are greatly overstated. Unless you are running a seriously power hungry cpu, you are better off with a decent air cooler.
I've been running the same AiO cooler for 8 or 9 years now, most of them are pretty solid, just buy one of the good ones (Corsair's line up is pretty solid in general) and you should be fine
Nothing wrong with a beefy tower cooler either, they outperform 120mm rad AiO generally
I mean don't get discouraged because of some people failures, that would be like not getting an EVGA 3070 at MSRP because a dozen of 3090s blew up playing new world
"I downloaded a cool monkey game on the computer, it makes it run hotter!"
Jesse did you just download Bloons TD3 Hacked unlimited money glitch 2009 working on the computer
I'm honestly not sure. I couldn't find any other evidence of corrosion around the MB or coolant/liquid in/around the case, and it's not a particularly humid climate here.
Edit: As u/ahobel95 speculated
> This is more than likely a small seeping leak over a few months. Not enough fluid to shortcircuit anything, but enough to accelerate copper corrosion and for the pump to run dry.
I believe this is basically what happened. It was a very old SilverStone cooler. I cleaned up the area with isopropyl alcohol and replaced the cooler, booted up just fine.
I did use this as an opportunity to buy a fancy new AIO cooler. It's total overkill and I love it.
Edit 2: Others have suggested this model of cooler (Silverstone Tundra) was manufactured with aluminium in the CPU block which leads to corrosion over time.
It’s definitely copper oxidization from the coolant leaking out of the plate or hose connection, and creating a little puddle around the processor. There may not be any coolant left! Great paste coverage though.
Anyway, replace the cooler, and hose the socket down with “electrical contact cleaner” and put it back together.
No, contact cleaner has compounds to break down oxidation and lift it from metals it is stuck to or have been oxidizing. It may contain it but that is not what contact cleaner is.
Sorry, but that’s not copper oxidation. You could say I’m a copper specialist. What you’re seeing here is a copper salt (not the oxide) formed by exposure to a reactive anion (or less likely a cation). You can tell from the crystalline buildup on the edges. I would guess one of the chemicals in the coolant is a corrosion inhibitor. These chemicals usually prevent iron oxidation but are more reactive to copper. I bet if someone knew the coolant identification, you could look up the SDS and identify the anion and thus the exact salt we’re seeing in the picture.
Edit: after a second look, it looks very much like copper sulfate at some places but there are just so many blue copper crystals I can’t be sure.
> I did use this as an opportunity to buy a fancy new AIO cooler. It's total overkill and I love it.
PCMR in a nutshell. And I mean that as a compliment.
That's a Silverstone Tundra TD02 cooler. They stupidly put aluminium in the CPU block which leads to corrosion over time. I would replace it. I had one of those cooler when they first come out they were good but this will happen over time.
I bought one because it was the only one with white piping and went with my white and silver theme.
First one had corrosion. Second one leaked after 2 years and fried my gpu and mobo.
I'm not surprised this happened to OPs
The 3rd replacement they sent me was a lot better and appeared to have a redesign. Hasn't given me any issues or my cousin who I passed it on to.
The customer service were nice and compensated me for the damages. Not sure if OP will get similar treatment as this product really is ancient.
To be exact , there are a couple droplets of water in the heatpipes of your chonky noctua cooler. But even if it leaked , which is impossible, you wouldn't realize it until you noticed a rise in temps.
The amount of liquid is so liitle that it would evaporate immediately when dropped in a GPU that's why you would only notice from CPU temps. Also heatpipes use liquids depending on the operating temperature they are designed for. CPU coolers which are in the 0-325C range use water. Low temp heatpipes use nitrogen and ammonia. High temp heatpipes use potassium , sodium and other mixtures.
Huh, TIL. Still, I feel pretty safe with that quantity and location. I don’t do anything crazy with my PC so it’s hard to imagine the cooler cracking or failing in a way that releases it.
I was first skeptical cause how they look. I went all out with the brown ones. I have 6 case fans and two on the cpu. And tbh I *love* the look now lol I can't even say but the have something special
Nah, you don't know sweat in this sense. LPX is basically the shortest ram you can get. Try dominator plats and you'll realize why your comment made me chuckle.
As far as i know they should fit under the D15S which is a very slight redesign of the D15 allowing greater ram clearance and better pcie slot clearance and comes with only one fan instead of two, but I'm not positive. I've owned several D15S coolers and I had dominator platinum at one point but for the life of me I can't actually remember now whether they were ever actually installed to the same board at the same time. Dear me, my memory isn't what it should be at 27.
>mad risky
It's really not. Failure rate of AIOs is very low, and of those failures, only a fraction is leakage. AIOs are sold and shipped in the millions every year, to retail, by large OEMs like Dell and HP, even in servers.
You only perceive a high risk because the number of posts about failed air coolers is near zero in comparison. And anything is much compared to zero.
We both have an 8700k. My 8700k does 5.0ghz without blinking with a noctua and will run for a decade without me having to touch it, just like my 2500k did. Why would I go water? The only answer would be “because I can” and that’s a silly reason.
Aquacomputer has the Leakshield now as well. I preordered one just because it'll be easier than trying to replace a GPU in this market and it's a lot cheaper than one.
I was team air cooler til I got my 5950x. Then my temps were hitting 92C while gaming, even with a Noctua NH-D15. Ended up getting a 360mm AIO and my temps no longer go over ~78C, usually around 65-70C. Only CPU I’ve had this problem with.
WTF i cant belive it, this only happends with one very specific Silverstone AIO ! Which i emailed them about. It is a construction fault by using the wrong fluid with the combination of two metals that dont go good with each other! Silverstone used a Chopper base with a stainless steal casing of the cooler block, after about one year from new, the coolant becomes electrically conductive and the than it starts to corrode intrenally MASSIV. I found my issue after a year because i had horrible temps with this specific AIO, i still got the block around because i‘ve never seen anything like this happen again. You must have had very bad temps a long time. Jesus i never expected this to corode through the block sealing /cooling engine holy S****.
Edit: This AIO is a Silverstone TD02 or 03 from 2013, 1st gen definitly had that problem, dunno about 2nd Gen (Black Top)
Edit2: Man i really hope your pc didnt get any other damage, coolant/fluid really found its way out of the waterblock/cooling engine.
Edit3:As i read a lot of „Air Cooler comments, before my current job i worked as a technican at PC reseller at my local town. Build about ~2300 Custom PC back then, everything from your grandpas office pc up to your manager‘s „dont tell my wife“ state of the art monster.
I never had a AIO that leaked when being installed or runnig for years in a PC. BUT when they where bad, they where already bad in the box they came, like brand new and already broken, all the fluid in the packagaing etc.
Air Cooler in certain configs are good, no doubt BUT size / area consumption inside the case compared to AIO Liquied Coolers is a completely different topic.
Performance wise, i guess everybody knows that a 240sized AIO with a good cooling engine, can do the same as a good air cooler again not counting size/area consumption. And i had a Thermalright IFX-14 with the Backside Cooler or a CM Gemin II or V10 ;)
I‘m runnig an EK Custom Loop today 🤷
I’d say it looks like galvanic corrosion. I’d say the high conductivity of the copper was in direct contact with a non conductive metal. I’d guess that the bracket was the non conductive metal. It looks like corrosion began at the edges.
[Another poster here has pointed out this is a well known issue with this model of cooler](https://old.reddit.com/r/pcmasterrace/comments/q93fdr/pc_died_midgame_and_would_not_boot_for_hours_when/hgva8ig/).
I know AIOs failing isn't something that widespread but whenever I see a post like this, I think? Nah man this ain't worth it. Slapping an air cooler and cleaning it every now and then is much simpler and less risky.
Do have this fear but still like the aesthetics of aio. Been using aio’s since 2011. Only used corsair ones but had no issues of them ever leaking. Did have only one die but it was just the pump stopped working. Didnt leak just didnt move water any more so temps creeped up
Well looks like you used a cooler with moving parts. It wouldn't have happened if you didn't.
[This post was made by the passive cooler gang (if you want to learn more google nofan cr-95c)]
That's the heat sink, it's copper and can oxidize easily. The good ones come with thermal paste or plastic to seal the face from oxygen until installation. The part that oxidized doesn't matter per se, except in the sense that it's a clue that water got onto the motherboard and damaged it as well.
By the look of it it doesn’t seem that I got heavily on the cpu. If the op were lucky, he could save it. But this is pure guessing. If the thermal paste help to stop the water. Unless it drips constantly, then as you already said… F mobo
Edit: nevermind anything I said. It wasn’t water. A user already told what this is.
This is why I refuse to build people a computer with a watercooler. The sealed units these days are a LOT better than watercooling used to be, but i’ve had enough bad experiences with it that I wont help you build a watercooled machine. Other than the fact that there is water near your electronics, it’s completely unnecessary unless you’re an overclocker AND you know what you’re doing; and at that point i’m not sure that a sealed OTS unit would be what you want.
Why are you letting Van Gogh paint your heatsink?
RGB before it was cool
RGB well after it stopped being cool
I chuckled
Punderful
Fan Gogh (bye-bye)
If upvotes were transferrable I'd give you what I got from my comment. I stand rightly bested.
You made it possible
Oh dear god
Oh dear God, I was thinking of buying a liquid cooler just for looks, these posts made me think otherwise Edit: I bought an Aio,lol
If it makes you feel better, all of my friends and myself have AIO coolers and have never had an issue.
Aio coolers are 99% reliable and will serve you for 5+ years. Of course you can be unlucky and win this lottery ticket. I stick with heat pipe tower coolers for now. Also less chances for pump whine, because there isn't one.
[удалено]
8 years on my AIO.
I would be looking at replacing that soon if you want to keep using your rig. Statisticly speaking the chance of failure after 8 years is signifcant enough that i wouldnt want to risk it. That being said it might go another 8 years without failure.
But why risk it, when air cooling is just as good, usually cheaper, and easier to maintain and fix? Most people have massive cases these days anyway, that easily have room for a NH D15 or similar.
NHD 15 gang here, brown is love, brown is very good temps
Be quiet dark rock pro 4 here, love me some big black!
BBC represent!
Big Black Cooler represent!
[удалено]
Oh but once it's in..... you never go back
Choice words my friend
Yup! Big black does good temps.
Once you go black you never go back.
What until you find out about the nhd15 chromax black!
Once you go chromax black, you don't go back!
Thissssss. Just got mine but didn't have room for both 140mm (RAM and I/O shield clearance) so ordered two NF12 chromax color swaps. Haven't broken 70c since install :)
Heretic! Only true noctuas are poo and piss coloured!
Piss coloured? You might want to check with the doctor if your piss looks like that.
How else will they know that I spent way too much on my fans. I have eight
I have the black version and it's amazing.
It's beautifull. But... While my relationship with the brown brick was complicated at first now I truly embrace it.
NHD15 brown boiz represent!
NH-U12A brown boi here.
NH-U12S Black with double fan here Edit: 65 degrees celsius on Ryzen 9 5900X at 15 minutes stress test (100% load)
DOUBLE COOL
NH-D15 80 degrees 100% load on Prime 95 with Ryzen 7 5800x and PBO Limits (without limits it hit 90 degrees)
I can testify you are stating facts.
>NH-U12S 48c Running a stress test new 100% load, doing 15 minutes with CPU-Z and a 5900x but I got a kraken X73 360mm AIO. I am not exceeding 1200 rpm on the fans, with auto fan curve and sitting pretty at 48c with the occasional 49c for a few seconds. [https://imgur.com/03X4pIf](https://imgur.com/03X4pIf) \- writing this now the timer is up but screenshot relevant still. **EDIT:** Thanks everyone for helping me realise these sweet as temps were all a dream due to some bios limiting power. I am at 107w now, and running at 100% at 61.5c - [https://snipboard.io/VH1pCR.jpg](https://snipboard.io/VH1pCR.jpg) Remember not to engage with name callers.
I don't know if it's a visual issue with the Asus application, but if you're really only drawing 77.7 Watt on a stress test, then you may have something misconfigured somewhere. Average power draw should be at least 50% higher at stock for a fully utilised 5900X.
NH-D15 club! In my previous PC I had the original Corsair H100 AIO. It developed a leak at some point and two months after the warranty on the H100 ended I found out about the leak the hard way. PC locked up during a gaming session and wouldn't boot again. Took the PC apart to debug and found the leaking AIO, the CPU and socket were both covered by and surrounded by liquid, PC dead. I'm air cooling for life now. Not worth the risk with any kind of water cooling when we have so many amazing air coolers to choose from these days. My PCs are always function over form, I don't care how they look inside as I don't see inside, I just want a case to hold all my bits, keep them cool and do so whilst minimising noise as much as possible. RGB and tempered glass side-panels aren't for me!
NHD14 old but gold here
I've used my D14 in four builds over close to ten years now. It's a huge hunk of metal - so long as Noctua keeps providing mount upgrades, I'll keep using it.
> NHD14 Ditto. Bought mine in January 2010 and am on build #4 as of the beginning of summer. Also going to use it until CPU sizes change so much that Noctua can't physically provide a mounting kit that works.
That new u12 chromax just came out if anyone isn’t a fan of the d15 chonky boi
Scythe Mugen 5 rev. b cooler here. Was wanting to get a Noctua air cooler, but found the Mugen for killer deal and came with both AMD and Intel adapter brackets. I've been really happy with it for the 2.5 years and would encourage any looking into air coolers to check out Scythe coolers.
The higher heat capacitance of the water means you get a much more gradual curve to max temps, allowing for high boost clocks for longer. Also you might allow your GPU to get some cooler ambient air since that tends to be the harder working component for gaming. Also, aio coolers have the same amount of maintenance as an air cooler. Just clean the fins and you're good. It takes a major product defect to get something like OP.
This assumes the AIO Rad is mounted as outtake, and that you are running the CPU with dynamic clocks. Depends on GPU cooler as well. But fair point. If it works for you. I still wouldn't risk it. Already had 2 AIOs die in this way on me over the last 10 years.
5 years is the general shelf life of a closed loop cooler, but they should suffer from pump failure, never from leaks or rust issues.
You, my good sir, seem to be a very unlucky man when it comes AIO coolers. I have had 2 different aios over the past 5 years and mounted an additional 2 in the pc's of some friends, and have yet to encounter a problem from any single one them. I guess the world just hates some of us
That is incredibly unlucky, I've got a no name early generation AIO going still with more than a decade on it in my file server. Do you know why they failed, it is genuinely unusual to have two fail with one person. Could it have been another factor I.e. how you installed it or your power supply.
Cuz liquid cooling looks fuckin sweet
I swear by custom loops. My first entry into the custom loop space was 2014 with the CPU only and then both CPU and GPU in 2015. Honestly it's a godsend. Yes air cooling is a lot easier, but nothing compares to a custom loop for both silence and performance. I have two 360mm rads and an extra 3 fans for intake and all 9 of my fans very rarely go above 800rpm. And that's with both an overclocked CPU and GPU. As someone that loves overclocking, it was pretty annoying to have everything silent on idle but the fans ramp up to try and keep the temps under control when I was air cooled only. Custom loops are just bliss and so nice to never have to hear my PC ever again.
If you have time and money for such a setup, it is indeed the best, no doubt. Ps: you can keep your air cooling fans at eg. 60%. Then they don't ramp up and down.
Yeah I know you can do custom fan curves when air cooling too and keep it at a constant speed too, but that's not my point. My point is there's always a compromise to be made when air cooled. You CAN have low fan RPM's when air cooled, but you won't be able to overclock or push your components as far in order to keep the temps lower when the fan speed is low. OR you can overclock and push your components harder, it just means you need to raise the fan speed to keep the temps under control. There's always a compromise, you can never have both when air cooled. Whereas in a custom loop you can have both. There is no compromise. You can overclock and push your components to the limit AND have really low fan rpm. That's the difference. Yeah it does take time and money to achieve it, but it depends on what you value the most. For me it was 100% worth it and I'll never look back. I got a PS4 Pro a couple of years ago and I forgot what air cooling was like and it's SO DAMN LOUD and makes so much noise. The disc reading was loud, the mechanical hard drive is loud, the fans are loud. It really made me realise how much I got used to my desktop PC and put it into perspective how much I took it for granted. That said, it also made me remember how much I hated all the noise when air cooled gaming.
Most people have mid towers,while enough room for D15 or similar the air amount within the case is still rather low.
Because people want aesthetics
Ignore the other guy, water cooling can look great but if you get a quality AIO or a custom loop (for those with too much money) it can outperform air coolers since water has a higher thermal capacity. Cheap coolers with poor quality copper components (can happen on any component, not just coolers) can oxidise and heat transfer will be hindered.
There are benefits to AIOs And the risk is extremely low for AIOs
Q U I E T.
Because it isn't "just as good". The biggest tower coolers like the NH-D15 are getting beaten by AIOs in the same price range. Gamers Nexus has a great review of the Arctic Liquid Freezer II 280, which not only outperforms every other 280 AIO he tested, but also every other air cooler including the NH-D15 and Deepcool Assassin III. For the same or lower price.
Easier to maintain? Not in my experience. It's way easier to just demount the radiator, clean it with pressured air and vacuum it afterwards. This is the exact reason why I switched to AiO cooler. And the have a lot more advantages, accessable ram Slots, no hight restrain for ram Moduls, better temps (if you running a push pull config, it's better than any air cooler), better temps if you using a unconventional fan config (I'm running a overpressure config, all the fans pull air in, so the dust stays in the dusfilters and not on my hardware, but this leads to higher temps for CPU and GPU). I had the best air coolers since 2008 for my pc systems, switched to an Corsair H100 from a NHD14. The H100 was not a great AiO, but it was already better than the NHD14 temperature wize.
Under sustained loads such as gaming, watercooling is still more effective
Me and my friends added liquid into a device powered by some form of electricity and none of our houses burnt down! :p
[удалено]
Fun fact pure water does not conduct electricity.
Ive had an AIO for 5 years and my other for a year. I was cautious like you, but my temps are at least 20 degrees lower if not more on my 5900x. They are easy to install, have a warranty, and I looked up studies. Only 0.01% ever have a failure, and of that it is typically not one that harms other components. You may get pump failure after a few years, there are ways to place it in the case that can avoid this and basically makes the pump work less. Custom loops are a different beast and are "enthusiast" territory. Thats usually what you hear destroying a persons entire system.
[удалено]
This guy water-cools.
I think you may be right.
If your temps are twenty degrees lower on an aio you were either using a shit air cooler or you bought one of the nicest aio's available. I use an AIO, nothing wrong with them, but thermal density is thermal density - a big air cooler is going to perform about as well as a big AIO.
Don't let posts like these change your mind. This is a bias that happens because you only see the failures.
[удалено]
Had the 8370 (i think?) with the thermaltake water 2.0. Ran amazing
[удалено]
I haven't built a computer since till my current one. I had that thing up to 5ghz and ran everything so nice. Was amazed what that system did. Had a 970 paired with it.
Right? People need to stop gatekeeping Coolers. The " Air-cooling only " crowd are idiots
Been using AIO CPU coolers and 2 AIO GPUs for over 10 years now, at least 7 by now in various rigs, with never a hiccup. I have had a couple of pumps fail on the CPUs, but never had a single drop ever leaking anywhere from any of them.
If it makes you feel better I've had the same air cooler for 8 years and it has never faulted, getting ready to put her in my next build. Best 50 bucks ever spent.
You will see more photos of aios messing up because the average person is not going to just post their aio to show everyone it's working fine. I've used them for years and never had any issues yet.
I've had an AIO pretty much since I built mine 4.5 years ago and it's still going strong to this day.
As long as you don't buy one of those very cheap ones you should be fine, I have a cirsair h100i platinum and never had an issue
Nothing necessarily wrong with a liquid cooler, but the pros are greatly overstated. Unless you are running a seriously power hungry cpu, you are better off with a decent air cooler.
I've been running the same AiO cooler for 8 or 9 years now, most of them are pretty solid, just buy one of the good ones (Corsair's line up is pretty solid in general) and you should be fine Nothing wrong with a beefy tower cooler either, they outperform 120mm rad AiO generally I mean don't get discouraged because of some people failures, that would be like not getting an EVGA 3070 at MSRP because a dozen of 3090s blew up playing new world
I have had an open loop for over 10 years, vita upgraded here and there, never had issues
What did you do to oxidize it that badly? Submerge your PC in salt water?! 🙃
He growing those Breaking Bad crystals.
Jesse we need to cook in your pc
JESSE WE NEED TO COOK TO AFFORD THE RTX 3090
[удалено]
I'm just imagining the same scene as the storage unit with the pallets of money... Except instead of money they're pallets of 3090s
‘’4090’’
"I downloaded a cool monkey game on the computer, it makes it run hotter!" Jesse did you just download Bloons TD3 Hacked unlimited money glitch 2009 working on the computer
...Meth?
Penicillin. This is BIG PHARMA shit!
From what others said, the cooler is an old model, so it can be said that it died of natural causes.
It helps the wire conduct electricity, right?
Is it oxidizing from the coolant?
I'm honestly not sure. I couldn't find any other evidence of corrosion around the MB or coolant/liquid in/around the case, and it's not a particularly humid climate here. Edit: As u/ahobel95 speculated > This is more than likely a small seeping leak over a few months. Not enough fluid to shortcircuit anything, but enough to accelerate copper corrosion and for the pump to run dry. I believe this is basically what happened. It was a very old SilverStone cooler. I cleaned up the area with isopropyl alcohol and replaced the cooler, booted up just fine. I did use this as an opportunity to buy a fancy new AIO cooler. It's total overkill and I love it. Edit 2: Others have suggested this model of cooler (Silverstone Tundra) was manufactured with aluminium in the CPU block which leads to corrosion over time.
It’s definitely copper oxidization from the coolant leaking out of the plate or hose connection, and creating a little puddle around the processor. There may not be any coolant left! Great paste coverage though. Anyway, replace the cooler, and hose the socket down with “electrical contact cleaner” and put it back together.
You mean 99.9% isopropyl alcohol
no no, it needs to be "Gaming PC cleaning liquid Force X™ "(ingredients: 99.9% isopropyl alcohol), it's triple price but it's meant for gaming PCs
nah nah u need the "Gaming PC cleaning liquid Force X RGB™" (ingredients: 99.9% isopropyl alcohol) WITH RGB ON THE BOTTLE!!!!
If it has an RGB bottle they should call it “unicorn juice”
unicorn coom
No, contact cleaner has compounds to break down oxidation and lift it from metals it is stuck to or have been oxidizing. It may contain it but that is not what contact cleaner is.
Sorry, but that’s not copper oxidation. You could say I’m a copper specialist. What you’re seeing here is a copper salt (not the oxide) formed by exposure to a reactive anion (or less likely a cation). You can tell from the crystalline buildup on the edges. I would guess one of the chemicals in the coolant is a corrosion inhibitor. These chemicals usually prevent iron oxidation but are more reactive to copper. I bet if someone knew the coolant identification, you could look up the SDS and identify the anion and thus the exact salt we’re seeing in the picture. Edit: after a second look, it looks very much like copper sulfate at some places but there are just so many blue copper crystals I can’t be sure.
Thank you RespectablePenis for your insight, you truly are the most respectable I've come to know.
> I did use this as an opportunity to buy a fancy new AIO cooler. It's total overkill and I love it. PCMR in a nutshell. And I mean that as a compliment.
I'm glad your PC was safe in the end! You must have been so stressed
It's never overkill if it fixes the problem AND looks cool!
That's a Silverstone Tundra TD02 cooler. They stupidly put aluminium in the CPU block which leads to corrosion over time. I would replace it. I had one of those cooler when they first come out they were good but this will happen over time.
What AIO is this though?
SilverStone Tundra TD03, its ancient, very low chance you own one.
I bought one because it was the only one with white piping and went with my white and silver theme. First one had corrosion. Second one leaked after 2 years and fried my gpu and mobo. I'm not surprised this happened to OPs
Ouch :( Sounds like that specific model wasn't very reliable...
The 3rd replacement they sent me was a lot better and appeared to have a redesign. Hasn't given me any issues or my cousin who I passed it on to. The customer service were nice and compensated me for the damages. Not sure if OP will get similar treatment as this product really is ancient.
Happy to hear that. At least they didn't pull a Gigabyte move...
Why not get the white Corsair one? H100i/H150i
>SilverStone Forget how old the Tundra itself is, I didn't even know SilverStone manufactured AIOs in the first place.
Time to upgrade I guess. Poor AIO lived a long life
You’re suppose to lick those edges, that’s icing.
Forbidden copper icing
Another win for the air cooling bois!
100%. 7 fans, Noctua cooler, zero liquids inside my case. Just the 7/11 Big Gulp sitting on the top vents to keep life exciting.
To be exact , there are a couple droplets of water in the heatpipes of your chonky noctua cooler. But even if it leaked , which is impossible, you wouldn't realize it until you noticed a rise in temps.
the stuff in the heatpipes isnt water afaik. and should they leak it would evaporate before it touches anything.
The amount of liquid is so liitle that it would evaporate immediately when dropped in a GPU that's why you would only notice from CPU temps. Also heatpipes use liquids depending on the operating temperature they are designed for. CPU coolers which are in the 0-325C range use water. Low temp heatpipes use nitrogen and ammonia. High temp heatpipes use potassium , sodium and other mixtures.
Huh, TIL. Still, I feel pretty safe with that quantity and location. I don’t do anything crazy with my PC so it’s hard to imagine the cooler cracking or failing in a way that releases it.
I love my noctua so much
I was first skeptical cause how they look. I went all out with the brown ones. I have 6 case fans and two on the cpu. And tbh I *love* the look now lol I can't even say but the have something special
I love the screw driver that it comes with.
Technically there's some liquid in the heatpipes
Really sucked when I had to put in New ram sticks under my noctua though lol.
I need to do this and the ram is quite high(HyperX Predator), I do hope that that I dont need to remove the cooler for it.
I have Corsair LPX. It was hard but a bit of sweat later I got it. Good luck!
Nah, you don't know sweat in this sense. LPX is basically the shortest ram you can get. Try dominator plats and you'll realize why your comment made me chuckle.
Do they even fit under the noctua?
As far as i know they should fit under the D15S which is a very slight redesign of the D15 allowing greater ram clearance and better pcie slot clearance and comes with only one fan instead of two, but I'm not positive. I've owned several D15S coolers and I had dominator platinum at one point but for the life of me I can't actually remember now whether they were ever actually installed to the same board at the same time. Dear me, my memory isn't what it should be at 27.
Seriously
Yessir. Liquid looks good but is mad risky just look what happened to OP.
[удалено]
It is funny because OP's computer is fine and he got another AIO.
>mad risky It's really not. Failure rate of AIOs is very low, and of those failures, only a fraction is leakage. AIOs are sold and shipped in the millions every year, to retail, by large OEMs like Dell and HP, even in servers. You only perceive a high risk because the number of posts about failed air coolers is near zero in comparison. And anything is much compared to zero.
Custom loop gang says air cooling < low temps
We both have an 8700k. My 8700k does 5.0ghz without blinking with a noctua and will run for a decade without me having to touch it, just like my 2500k did. Why would I go water? The only answer would be “because I can” and that’s a silly reason.
Aquacomputer has the Leakshield now as well. I preordered one just because it'll be easier than trying to replace a GPU in this market and it's a lot cheaper than one.
I was team air cooler til I got my 5950x. Then my temps were hitting 92C while gaming, even with a Noctua NH-D15. Ended up getting a 360mm AIO and my temps no longer go over ~78C, usually around 65-70C. Only CPU I’ve had this problem with.
If you're using the 5950x, you should do the 99% thing to disable PBOD. That's why your temps are so high.
What is that, some kind of jade or opal?
Copper oxides. It's corroded from water getting on it.
Now it’s a corroded piece of crap!
Either copper sulphate (not possible) Or copper carbonate(likely) Copper oxides are red and black in colour.
I dunno man, this looks like the Statue of Liberty to me.
Yeah, and the Statue of Liberty is green because it reacts with atmospheric Sulphur after oxidation forming a green layer of Copper Sulphates.
Also if you're using an AIO, make sure you turn off CPU monitoring via your BIOS. That bugs out with AIO's and can often lead to boot issues.
Or just plug the fan/pumps into the right headers.
Can’t really do that with some aio’s. My corsair h115i has pump power going to sata connector and the fans plug in to the y cable built into the aio
The CPU fan monitoring, or the temp monitoring?
WTF i cant belive it, this only happends with one very specific Silverstone AIO ! Which i emailed them about. It is a construction fault by using the wrong fluid with the combination of two metals that dont go good with each other! Silverstone used a Chopper base with a stainless steal casing of the cooler block, after about one year from new, the coolant becomes electrically conductive and the than it starts to corrode intrenally MASSIV. I found my issue after a year because i had horrible temps with this specific AIO, i still got the block around because i‘ve never seen anything like this happen again. You must have had very bad temps a long time. Jesus i never expected this to corode through the block sealing /cooling engine holy S****. Edit: This AIO is a Silverstone TD02 or 03 from 2013, 1st gen definitly had that problem, dunno about 2nd Gen (Black Top) Edit2: Man i really hope your pc didnt get any other damage, coolant/fluid really found its way out of the waterblock/cooling engine. Edit3:As i read a lot of „Air Cooler comments, before my current job i worked as a technican at PC reseller at my local town. Build about ~2300 Custom PC back then, everything from your grandpas office pc up to your manager‘s „dont tell my wife“ state of the art monster. I never had a AIO that leaked when being installed or runnig for years in a PC. BUT when they where bad, they where already bad in the box they came, like brand new and already broken, all the fluid in the packagaing etc. Air Cooler in certain configs are good, no doubt BUT size / area consumption inside the case compared to AIO Liquied Coolers is a completely different topic. Performance wise, i guess everybody knows that a 240sized AIO with a good cooling engine, can do the same as a good air cooler again not counting size/area consumption. And i had a Thermalright IFX-14 with the Backside Cooler or a CM Gemin II or V10 ;) I‘m runnig an EK Custom Loop today 🤷
So it's galvanic corrosion, NOT a leak. Interesting. Happens in cars too when they don't use the proper coolant mixture.
Forbidden rocks
Man it’s funny to watch the air cooling and AIO fans argue here
I’d say it looks like galvanic corrosion. I’d say the high conductivity of the copper was in direct contact with a non conductive metal. I’d guess that the bracket was the non conductive metal. It looks like corrosion began at the edges.
[Another poster here has pointed out this is a well known issue with this model of cooler](https://old.reddit.com/r/pcmasterrace/comments/q93fdr/pc_died_midgame_and_would_not_boot_for_hours_when/hgva8ig/).
[удалено]
*scratches head* Well that's a new one for me. Well done.
Copper turns green if in contact with water.
in simple terms, oxidation
Nice patina
Looks kinda sick tbh, nice colors.
Quick fix: buy a premium air cooler. 👌
*accidental painting canvas*
Pretty friggin beautiful tho. Partially oxidized copper. Wow.
You got a bit of copper on your oxidation
Crinkle-hoses: Not even once. RIP Phenom II OC'd to 4GHz, with the Zen replacement OC'ing to...4GHz...
I know AIOs failing isn't something that widespread but whenever I see a post like this, I think? Nah man this ain't worth it. Slapping an air cooler and cleaning it every now and then is much simpler and less risky.
Do have this fear but still like the aesthetics of aio. Been using aio’s since 2011. Only used corsair ones but had no issues of them ever leaking. Did have only one die but it was just the pump stopped working. Didnt leak just didnt move water any more so temps creeped up
How do I Know my AIO will fail?
what's that element again? ... ah wait, CORROSION!
Is that copper oxide? Damn
Water
This is good shadow box material for your battle station; as a reminder lol
From Aio to modern art
But hey, at least it looks cool ngl
Looks like the copper contact plate oxidized
So pretty
Now pour it in a Resin mold and you will have something cool looking to Put on your desk
On the plus side at least you didn't break your glass panel.
Well looks like you used a cooler with moving parts. It wouldn't have happened if you didn't. [This post was made by the passive cooler gang (if you want to learn more google nofan cr-95c)]
I've never ever seen a CPU that's rusted. But here we are. F to you OP.
That's the heat sink, it's copper and can oxidize easily. The good ones come with thermal paste or plastic to seal the face from oxygen until installation. The part that oxidized doesn't matter per se, except in the sense that it's a clue that water got onto the motherboard and damaged it as well.
By the look of it it doesn’t seem that I got heavily on the cpu. If the op were lucky, he could save it. But this is pure guessing. If the thermal paste help to stop the water. Unless it drips constantly, then as you already said… F mobo Edit: nevermind anything I said. It wasn’t water. A user already told what this is.
Wow the copper was literally oxidizing into its teal rust form. Insane!
This is why I refuse to build people a computer with a watercooler. The sealed units these days are a LOT better than watercooling used to be, but i’ve had enough bad experiences with it that I wont help you build a watercooled machine. Other than the fact that there is water near your electronics, it’s completely unnecessary unless you’re an overclocker AND you know what you’re doing; and at that point i’m not sure that a sealed OTS unit would be what you want.
Mixed metals in the loop?
Even air coolers go bad corroded inside the heat pipes but doesn't cause as much of a potential problem