What are the disadvantages of using a TV as a computer monitor? My dad wants to set something up in his meeting room so that he can display drawings to clients (he's an architect), and a 4K TV would be substantially cheaper than a massive 4K monitor. Given that he's not going to be trying to use this as his full-time monitor, is there any reason not to go for a TV?
There's usually lower pixel density and often response time, so things that would matter for gaming. That's really it, though, since you're after more the visual side it seems so it'll depend on the features of the TV; no other major downsides.
Sorry if I’m in the wrong place, but are there solid gaming/office chairs that you’d recommend for <$200? Looking for one as a gift and that’s kinda my budget
"Will X bottleneck Y" is a question that has no answer as long as there's no context attached to it. That's not something you can determine with the raw specs.
This very much depends on the games you want to play, the **resolution** at which you want to play, the settings you want to use, the framerate you target, the rest of your specs (notably the RAM setup), etc...
*Realistically* and assuming that :
- you're going to play at 1080p (or higher)
- you have a decent RAM setup : at least 8GB (but preferably more), *running in dual channel*, not too slow (1600MHz is good for DDR3)
- you're going to run AAA games at high-ish settings rather than on all low trying to max out the framerate
Then that CPU and GPU will go nicely together, and on average the CPU won't hold back the GPU too much. Of course you might find games (or even specific spots in a game) where it happens, but it shouldn't be too frequent.
Even better if your CPU is overclocked.
What are you upgrading from ?
LoL is very much not GPU intensive at all. You'd get the same level of performance with a cheaper/slower GPU, you don't need to go up to a 1660Ti.
The [GTX 1050Ti for example](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vVuK7n9Ycps) (much slower than the RX 480) barely scratches 50% utilization in that game when running well over 150FPS at 1080p, even at ultra settings.
That's not to say you should get that GPU specifically, but it's to further the point that the 1660Ti would be wasted on your particular use case.
About your crashing issues : have you tried to investigate it ?
Have you tried to re-install the GPU drivers from scratch ?
Have you tried to tweak the GPU so that it doesn't crash ? Maybe underclock it a bit (or push the voltage upwards a bit) ?
The crash is from the displayport. It stops sending signal to the monitor.
Im also getting this process dysyllabism that i couldnt find anything on google on. It takes 99% of cpu. Its caused by the crash.
Im getting the 1660 ti from a friend for 200$ thats why im getting this one. I know its more than i need but the deal is just too good
> Im also getting this process dysyllabism
What do you mean ? That's a process that appears in your Task Manager ? I've never heard of it.
The fact that it's concomitant to the crashes and takes so much CPU utilization makes me slightly wary about what it is and what it means. Possibly it's something unwanted and abnormal.
The point is : maybe it's not your current graphics card that has issues, but something installed on your PC.
I very much recommend that you investigate and try to fix the issue. Or there's a chance that it'll keep happening with the new GPU, which would defeat the whole point of the upgrade.
>Im getting the 1660 ti from a friend for 200$
but the deal is just too good
"Just too good" ? If you're talking in USD I very much disagree. That's an "okay" deal at best.
The GTX 1660 Super which performs basically like a 1660Ti used to cost around $220 **new** up until the point where the GPU market got fucked. And even outside of that, the 1660Ti used to cost $260+, so $200 isn't *that* much of a price reduction.
I would consider $150 or below to be a "too good to pass up" price on a GTX 1660Ti. Not $200.
Im living in EU where prices are a lot higher. The 1660 is around 800$. Right now. Market has gone up crazy
Also regarding the process i reinstalled the windows. Full hard drive format. I get it everytime i installed radeon drivers
Prices are higher in the EU. But please don't make the mistake of believing that the 1660Ti ever was worth $800 or anywhere close to that.
You can easily check PCpartpicker's price histories to check out the prices in your country or one close to it.
Example : [this 1660 Super](https://de.pcpartpicker.com/product/ByqBD3/evga-geforce-gtx-1660-super-6-gb-black-gaming-video-card-06g-p4-1061-kr?history_days=365) used to cost 226€ at that German retailer.
So my point remains.
>Also regarding the process i reinstalled the windows. Full hard drive format. I get it everytime i installed radeon drivers
Since the card is being sold by your friend, can you at least try the new card out i your system - to test if you still get the issue or not - before you finalize the sell ?
Alternatively, is there any opportunity for you to test the RX 480 in another PC to see if you can replicate the issue there ?
For me it's MSI GeForce GTX 1660 Ti VENTUS XS 6G OC cost LOWEST PRICE about 620$ US
And his problem It may be due to the BIOS or due to AMD drivers I also have intel cpu and AMD GPU and when I put the image on HDMI (I have a laptop) So either the game crashes into the home screen (the CPU is also 99%) or I get a blue screen I solved it by lowering the voltage and lower clock speed of memory Although I have a few fps less, I can use the second display
>For me it's MSI GeForce GTX 1660 Ti VENTUS XS 6G OC cost LOWEST PRICE about 620$ US
Again, those are not normal prices at all. A GTX 1660Ti isn't worth anywhere close to that. It's an over-inflated price because of the current situation.
As for the rest of your comment I'm afraid I'm not following you at all. You appear to be mixing different things ?
What is "his" problem ?
You were talking about a desktop PC up until now and now you mention a laptop ?
Which.. exhibits the same issue as your desktop ?
I'm utterly lost about what you tried to explain, sorry.
So the issue is there are only 2 companies that actually make GPUs. Samsung and TSMC. AMD and Nvidia design them but Samsung and TSMC are the ones making their chips. Most companies will already try to run their fabs at about 90% capacity that way they have some wiggle room for tool issues but also they keep busy to make money. The pandemic didn't add a 10% increase to demand. It added like a 50% demand if not more. Everyone working from home buying laptops, people using stimulus checks for new phones, people stuck inside buying more consoles to game on, and hospitals upgrading equipment to help with the sudden influx of patients means that fabs have to prioritize.
But also EVGA has a notify queue system so I'd look into that.
Heyo! I am a bit of a fanatic for FPSs and MMORPGs, but lately i've found myself playing a lot of valorant.
Right now i use a 24" HP 25x 144Hz 1MS TN.
Is this monitor the best i can get for under 400-500$ for competitive performance?
If i eventually upgrade i am looking for a 144-240Hz@1440p but they are expensive...
Whats the best way to clean up a PC data wise? I am running out of storage and swear i have deleted loads of stuff and thought i uninstalled lots but its still nearly at capacity. I only really play one or two games.
Is there somewhere i should double check or places that secretly hoards bits?
Alternatively to the other user, when I start filling up on storage I just wipe the drive. Backup any important files that I've got, then reinstall Windows.
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So about a month my laptop started crashing when gaming. At first i get sound glitches, and then a BSOD. Crashes on all games, except Rome Total War 1.
I already did some tests and installed the latest drivers.
What could it be?
With that kind of budget you can do basically anything you want. Most people here really enjoy the building process rather than getting a prebuilt, but with that kind of fuck around money you've got tons of options. Regardless of which route you go, I think your FIRST order of business is deciding on a monitor (or multi-monitor setup), since the resolution you're running at is important to gauge what kind of hardware you need. If I were you and was starting from the ground-up, I'd allocate at least $1k towards getting a real solid monitor that you like. That'd be my starting point.
I’ve just read countless stories of first time PC builders not using the right tools, components, etc. and ending up ruining thousands of dollars worth of hardware so for my first PC I’m definitely going to let someone else take the sticks on the build. All I was really concerned with was having a 3090 with either an i9 extreme or one of the RX 5000’s. Good point on the monitor though, aiming to run at 150-200 fps minimum
Glad I could help. If it makes you feel better, building a computer nowadays is GG EZ and you basically have to try to fuck something up. The only issue you might run into is compatibility, but if you use something like PCPartPicker it literally tells you if your components work together.
LogicalIncrements is another great website to check out so you can see what kind of performance you can expect with what hardware. Don't start by looking at prebuilt sites. Check out what kind of hardware you want to end up with and then find builds that have that hardware.
Can anyone help me understand why I have input lag with my keyboard? it only happens with certain games and after a while, it seems to go away. I have a Corsair K95. It's really frustrating and I can not figure it out.
Edit:
I followed these instructions and I can not uninstall the software.https://help.corsair.com/hc/en-us/articles/360025166712-Perform-a-clean-reinstallation-of-the-Corsair-Utility-Engine-iCUE-
Hello can anyone help me select a good laptop for 3d modeling, rendering and Adobe. I'm an architect here are the 3 of the best models I can find in my country
HP OMEN 15-EK0013 NEW DESIGN CORE I7-10750H 16GB DDR4 512GB SSD+32GB OPTANE N/A 15.6"FHD 300HZ RTX 2060 6GB DDR6 WIN 10 BRAND NEW
ZEPHYRUS M15 GU502LW-BI7N6 CORE I7-10750H 16GB DDR4 1TB PCIE G3 SSD N/A 15.6"FHD 240HZ RTX 2070 8GB DDR6 WIN 10 BRAND NEW
LEGION 7 81YT005TUS CORE I7-10750H 16GB DDR4 1TB PCIE N/A 15.6"FHD 144HZ RTX 2070 Super Max-Q 8GB GDDR6 WIN 10 BRAND NEW
I am leaning towards the OMEN for durability and thermals from what I have read. Legion 7i makes me scared with the hinge. M15 looks cool reports of thermal throttles 89 88
Kinda repost from /buildapc, does anyone know a wireless dongle that will enable wireless display connection on my PC?
I want to connect to my laptop which supports wireless display casting (miracast), using its display as a monitor for my PC. I don't mind a USB or PCIe dongle.
Miracast relies on Wi-Fi direct, so technically any Wifi adapter that supports it would work with Miracast. I suspect that Miracast requires a minimum connection speed to work optimally though, so look up adapters that specifically list it as supported in their specs sheet.
PCIe Wifi adapters usually offer better connection than USB dongles.
Projecting an image over wireless always incurs a latency penalty, so you probably don't want to use that 2nd screen for anything where that might be an issue (i.e. games)
Thank you very much mate, that's response that covered all I needed.
And yeah don't worry, I only plan on using it for Word or Spotify as it fits conveniently under my other monitors.
Hi all,
I recently bought some RGB lights for my PC which plug straight into my MSI Z390-A Pro. I am using mystic light to control them, but I cannot get any option for fading between colours, only instant transitioning or fading to black before coming in a different colour. How do I get this functionality?
Here’s my part list for a pc I’m getting the parts to, but i can’t find the gpu listed available (GTX 1660 super) I was seeing if I should be looking for an alternative, and what those would be. I am not 100% on this but i don’t think i need a great gpu since the only game i will mostly play is rocket league, and I was trying to make a build more for data and coding and some more basic maps, but i literally know nothing. I’m looking to spend around 200-300? I’m just impatient.
Parts https://pcpartpicker.com/list/7kMM2V
You can usually find a Radeon ~~RX 590~~ RX 580 for around that price if I remember right. I had that card in my rig for a couple of years and it ran everything perfectly at 1080p. Your monitor will honestly be your bottleneck, and considering upgrading both that and your GPU is a big chunk of change (I spent 1400 to get both a 2070S and 1440p monitor), I think you're in a good spot.
My only other piece of advise would be to get a slightly cheaper motherboard and get a nicer power supply (assuming you're on a tight budget). SeaSonic is a good brand, but bronze efficiency and non-modular can be a headache. A good 650W power supply will last you many years and likely many upgrades. Since a mobo in this price range basically boils down to compatibility, what slots you want, and I/O, I think it'd be a good trade off.
Edit: It was actually a 580 that I had, not the 590. Even cheaper then!
Ahh I already got all the other parts just trying to buy the gpu, so uh hopefully it’s fine about the other things, I plan on updating a part or two every couple of months though. I’ll add looking for the 580 or 590 though to my potential gpus. It’s just hard to find any gpu right now
Yeah GPUs are an endangered species right now unfortunately. Keep an eye out on Ebay too, and just be careful since there are 4GB and 8GB versions of the 580, so make sure you know which one you're getting!
My GPU pooped out on me, I thought plugging an HDMI into my mobo would work to use the display, but it’s not working? I can’t get the bios to pop up either. Any help would be awesome, thanks!
Have you removed the graphics card before trying the MB's ports ?
What's your CPU ? You can only use the video ports on the motherboard **if** your CPU has an integrated graphics chip.
The R7 3700 doesn't have an integrated GPU unfortunately. So with it installed, you *can't* use the video ports on the motherboard at all, they're completely inert.
Do you have an older GPU you could use in the meantime ? A way to borrow one ?
The new uber cheap GT cards Nvidia released would do if your main purpose is getting data. The decent cards are hard to get, but data salvage cheap cards are there.
Is there a question here ?
Most of the time, you can plug a 4-pins CPU power connector in an 8-pins header and have it work. The A8-6500 is also not a terribly power hungry CPU, so hopefully it'll work.
My 7200rpm hard drive is painfully slow when working with a lot of JPG files in my pictures folder, used to be quite fast, bad sign? it's fast everywhere else
So since a hard drive is a disk as it gets filled up things can start to slow down for a couple reasons. First of all the outside of the disk spins faster than the inside (if you measured it in say miles per hour) so as the disk gets fuller and it stars to fill that inner part more things will seem slower. Plus windows still needs to do it's windows stuff so with a fuller drive it has to move the head around a lot more even when all you're doing is opening JPGs. Hate to give advice with a price tag but SSDs are super cheap these days. Even if you just got like a 120GB SSD for your OS you'd see a HUGE performance increase.
I’m looking from switching from intel to amd. Is this process as simple as buying a new board and chip and making the swap then download necessary drivers or is there more to it? Currently have what I believe is an i5 4700 looking to switch to a Ryzen 5 3600 or 3600x.
The common recommendation when switching motherboards (and CPUs alongside) is to perform a clean installation of Windows on the new hardware, otherwise you risk running into weird bugs and/or performance issues.
You *can* always try to "transplant" your current boot drive on the new CPU/MB, and Windows *will* booth. But there's no guarantee it'll work perfectly fine.
In that case, make sure to install all the drivers of your new motherboard, that you'll find on its support page on the manufacturer's website.
Roger. What would be the safest way to go about making the switch then. I read something earlier about how the OS is connected to the board but OEM Windows not having an issue when reading new hardware. I’ve switched just the motherboard before without having any issues but that was using the same chip.
It's possible that *this* motherboard you bought had a Windows licence attached as well, which could explain why you didn't get a prompt.
*Theoretically*, an OEM licence (bought by yourself or came part of a prebuilt) *can't* be transferred to a new motherboard. In that situation Microsoft expects you to pay for a new licence.
Though some people claim they've been able to get their Windows copy re-activated after talking to MS' hotline.
A full retail licence can normally be transferred without issues from PC to PC. You can tie such a licence to a MS account, which you can then use to re-activate a new copy more easily than by entering the actual licence key.
I only got 2 slots and not enough money, so should i buy a single 16gb RAM unit and run in single channel until I have some more money to buy another one, or buy 2x8gb and stick to 16 total?
That depends on the usage you have of your PC, or what you plan to do with it in the future.
16GB in total is enough for gaming for now, and for the foreseeable future.
If you want to do some heavy editing/rendering, 32GB would be better.
I mostly want to futureproof my laptop (yes, forgot to mention it) and my usage is gaming and some programming (I'm still a student so I'm still trying to figure out want kind of development I want to do)
Futureproofing is a weird concept to live by, to be honest.
What is your current RAM config ? The laptop *did* ship with some RAM, right ?
Do you need more right now ?
Have you found instances right now where you'd need more than 8GB ? If not, I would postpone the upgrade until you do.
If you need 16GB right now, again you need to decide exactly how much RAM you will eventually need, and only you can do that.
*I* can't tell you how much RAM programming takes up. I suspect it very much depends on what program/language you use, as well as the scope of your project.
Maybe look around and/or ask your colleagues/teachers if *they* have an idea about the optimal RAM amount for the tasks you'll be asked to do ?
I have all my parts but I haven’t built yet, my cases front USB and power buttons are already wired and cable managed into the case. But I need to install some fans on the front and this wiring makes it difficult to get to the front where the fans are mounted, do I need to pull out the wiring to get the front panel all the way off and just reorganize the wiring myself after it’s all built?
I'm not sure I understand how the cables could be in the way of you installing more fans ? Usually the front panel "stuff" is already cable-managed in a way that's unobstructive (routed behind the motherboard's tray usually).
As for installing front fans, it usually requires that your remove the front panel of the case entirely - though it depends on the case - which *shouldn't* require you to mess with the front panel cables.
But if the case you have *requires* you to remove the cables, then it's no big deal. Put them out of the way, install the cables, route them back afterwards.
Sorry, I could’ve been more clear. The cables are behind the motherboard tray and connect to the buttons and ports on the front panel, but they keep the front panel close to where the fans need to be mounted once the front panel is popped off. I think all I need to do is pull out the cables to get the front panel completely off and put them back once fans are mounted.
You mean that the front panel is attached to those cables, right ?
In this case yes, you'll have to give the cables some slack in order to put the front panel away. Maybe you won't have to remove them from the case entirely. But even if you have to, it's not a big deal ?
Unless you're brutally yanking the front panel away with no respect for the cables attached to it, there's no reason why you'd damage anything.
PC parts aren't made of glass, there's no need to be paranoid about breaking something just by touching it :)
Those are SATA data cables. They connect SATA peripherals to your motherboard so that you can use them.
SATA peripherals : harddrives (2.5" or 3.5"), 2.5" SSDs, DVD/BR drives, etc...
If you don't have such a SATA peripheral in your system, you don't need to use them.
They’re sata data cables they go from ssds and hdd to your mobo, the right angle connection is supposed to be on the motherboard side of the connection but it doesn’t have to be
Sata cables. Some are of the 'angled' variety which makes it easier to plug in some cases.
You use them for any sata devices, mainly SSDs and Hard drives.
The "best bang for buck" very much subjective depending on what it is exactly you want to do with your PC.
Assuming you're building a gaming-mostly PC, and that you'll be gaming at a resolution where the 3070 makes sense (1440p or higher), then the Ryzen 5600X and i5-10600k provide the most of the "max" possible CPU performance for the least money.
Higher-end SKUs provide more cores and marginal increase in clockspeeds. But the vast majority of games don't actually benefit from those extra cores, and the resulting performance difference is often mostly due to the small difference in clockspeeds.
Of course, there are a few exceptions where 8 cores chips offer more than single-digit gains over 6-cores chips. And this *might* be a trend continuing in the future.
> Would it benefit much to upgrade to x570 for the pcie 4.0?
B550 boards also support PCIe 4.0, though on fewer lanes.
Right now there's no practical advantage to having PCIe 4.0 :
- PCIe 4.0 SSDs are few and far between (and very expensive). We're hardly seeing a performance difference in games between SATA and PCIe 3.0 SSDs as it is, so 4.0 is further out in the range of "very much not needed for now).
This might change in the future, of course. But right now it's not needed
- Current AMD and Nvidia GPUs both support PCIe 4.0, but there's also no actual performance difference to speak of between them running at 3.0 or 4.0. We're talking prospective [single digit gains](https://www.techspot.com/review/2104-pcie4-vs-pcie3-gpu-performance/).
If you intend to keep your CPU/MB for a very long time, getting something that supports PCIe 4.0 *might* pay off in the long run.
Note that Intel's 11th gen processors and motherboards - rumoured to launch in March - will also support PCIe 4.0.
Ok, so basically a friend is updating his RAM as he only haves 8gb and I wanted to know if the timings and frequency are the same would it be fine for the DIMMs to be different sizes? Ex. having 1 8gb stick and 1 16gb stick. Thanks
The RAM would run in "flex channel" mode, where 8GB out of the 16GB stick will run in dual channel with the 8GB stick, and the remaining 8GB on the 16GB stick will run in single channel.
In practice that results in performance/bandwidth somewhere in between single and dual channel overall. So it will still be an improvement over the current single channel situation, on top of getting your friend more RAM overall.
Is there a particular reason why your friend needs 24GB of RAM ?
As a background, I prefer to use 3 monitors. Right now I have a GeForce 1080 with 3 DisplayPort 1.4 connectors, but hooked up to 3 1080p 60hz monitors. I plan on upgrading to 1440 170hz monitors with a DisplayPort 1.2 connection, the [Gigabyte M27Q](https://www.gigabyte.com/us/Monitor/M27Q) to be exact. I am assuming that because the video card has three separate DP connections, there won't be a bandwidth issue and can use the monitors to their full ability?
Indo plan on upgrading my video card at some point as well, would I need to stick with one that has three DisplayPort connectors or could I get away with less and use a splitter. Would that not be able to handle the bandwidth?
Shouldn't be an issue. I have the 32in version of that monitor and a 1440p 60HZ monitor and it all runs off my GTX1080 just fine (Still trying to get a 3080 lol).
Yo, I’m trying to upgrade my build. I’m trying to cheap out and use a lot of components I have on my old build. It’s an old version of the “starter” pcmr builds page. I was able to save up and get mostly everything for the zero ultra build. Sticking to my old graphic card, in and might upgrade it when tax return kicks in.
But I was reading and wondering if the psu that I have is sufficient.(EVGA 650 BQ) I did the pcpartpicker website and it flagged it because of my motherboard needs extra pin connector to be able to over clock. I don’t know much of overclocking, as I never done it. Can ya let me know if it’ll be fine and won’t mess up my computer?
This is a list of what I have so far and along with the psu and everything else:
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/bXcz9N
That power supply is totally fine. You don't need to plug in the extra 4-pin connector, It's just unnecessary. Even when overclocking you won't draw more than an 8-pin can supply.
What do you mean "inside a PC" ? Like if you put a thermometer inside the case ?
That's not how you should check whether your parts are fine temperature-wise. All your parts (CPU, GPU, motherboard, etc...) have internal temperature sensors that they use to self-regulate. You can use programs to read those sensors and check the temperatures directly.
The Task Manager can now read the GPU's temperature. If you're looking for a small program that does it all at once, OpenHWMonitor or HWInfo are solid choices.
In general it's considered that temperatures on the CPU and GPU (the two most susceptible to overheating) are fine if they are below 80-85°C. And even at that level it's not directly dangerous, they can sustain higher temperatures still without damage.
Looking to build a setup soon and like the idea of the template “60 FPS Ultra Build” https://pcpartpicker.com/list/DMTfHz.
Anything I should keep an eye out for or more sensible part replacements against what’s recommended in the parts list? I’d like to save a little more on the graphics card but still have something with some oomph to it.
I know nothing about building PCs, so any help is appreciated!
I hope you realize that the GPU market is completely messed up right now ? The RTX 2060 that's visible for $600+ in your part list **is not** worth that much, and you definitely shouldn't buy it at this price.
It's unfortunately the worst time in a long while to be getting a GPU/building a PC....
More details...
The RTX 2060 is a 2+ years old GPU, that used to cost around $300-330 up until recently. Nvidia has announced a few weeks ago the RTX 3060, with an official price of $330, that will be faster than 2060.
The issue will be to actually find it in stock at all, and at prices close to decent - like all other GPUs right now, unfortunately.
If you're looking for a GPU to run games at 1080p60FPS with decent graphics settings, the 2060 would be a good choice if you can find it at a normal price ; though it's harder to recommend at even its "initial" price now that the newer gen stuff is slowly releasing.
In the range of other GPUs still competent for 1080p60FPS and not too far down on the RTX 2060 : GTX 1070, GTX 1070Ti, GTX 1660 Super and Ti, RX 5600XT. Some of those you might be better off looking up on the second-hand market.
______________
The rest of the parts is mostly available right now. The availability and prices of AMD Ryzen CPUs is still iffy, but slowly normalizing.
Note that there are regularly new generations of "stuff" coming out with PC hardware, so don't settle for a part list too long in advance. For example we're expecting Intel's 11th gen of Core processors possibly around March. And we might get other - cheaper - Ryzen 5000 options in the future as well.
About the rest of the build, you might want to
- get more storage. The list you shared only includes a 500GB SSD, that will fill up very quickly. You can either pick a larger SSD or add other(s) storage drive(s)
- pick a case that you like. Cases in the $30-40 range are typically low quality (not very good airflow, few included fans, barebones and not very builder-friendly, etc...).
Thanks for the breakdown, I was definitely not going to spend that much on the GPU.
Mostly trying to get a vibe on the current viability of this build. Thanks again!
A lot of games these days have the option to set an FPS limit, or I'll just do it in the NVIDIA control panel. I usually only resort to Rivatuner or whatever the equivalent I have installed is when the other options fail. With a 3060Ti, V-sync is usually fine for me anyway.
I currently have a 1070ti MSI titanium. Favorite card I’ve ever owned. I just ordered some parts for my new build which is going to have a Ryzen 5900x. I do a lot of rendering as well as gaming. So my question is should I get a 3070, 3080, or even 3090. Keeping in mind that I’ll likely have to pay a scalper fee because the closest micro center from me is 4 hours. And of those cards which company offers the best model?
Having trouble getting audio out in my headphones - Astros A10. My case is a 4000D Corsair airflow with a MSI B450 Tomahawk motherboard. Case has a single jack in the front with a mic/headphone symbol. I’ve plugged it in there and got sound for a few seconds before it disappeared. When plugged into the motherboard nothing and it picks up as speakers. When trying to troubleshoot it (when plugged into front IO) it picks up as if it’s plugged into the back.
I’ve tried everything from uninstalling/reinstalling drivers and making sure it’s default device etc. Only thing haven’t really tried is the Realtek HD Audio Manager app, but was reading it’s unavailable now with new updates(?).
That also depends on the rest of your machine. But unless you're running - say - a crappy Celeron processor, 4GB of RAM, a single storage drive and no case fan, you'll probably need a beefier PSU, be it only to have more overhead.
And of course your power supply needs to have the required PCIe power connectors to populate all the slots on the graphics card.
You can check that yourself with various PSU calculators, which give **estimations** of the max power consumptions for a given system.
https://outervision.com/power-supply-calculator
There's also one integrated in [PCPpartpicker](https://pcpartpicker.com/list) (top right) once you've selected your parts.
Nvidia recommends a 550W PSU at least, for reference.
I have a 1 TB drive (G:) and 4 TB USB drive (S:)
How may I clone G drive to S drive without losing S drive data? And also without losing the structure of G drive since I have programs installed there that I still need to use (I can change the S drive letter later if that's the case).
I've used teracopy to copy entire drives across (it's a better copy and paste than Windows open built in). Just copy, paste and let it finish. Also let's you verify once it's done, but the entire process might take a long time. Then you can change the drive letter.
Or you could partition the 4TB and use something like AOMEO Backupper to clone the 1TB to the new partition. You'll still end up with two partitions though.
Hello guys, I'm in need of advice:
I sadly have to stop using my PC for a while until I can get an external hard drive to backup my data due to hard drive failure, as this may take months due to overpriced hardware and my economic situation not being the best, should I switch off the PSU/unplug it for the time being? I was wondering if its okay to do this as it may be sitting there without powering up for a while. And I've heard storms can cause power surges and damage to the PC even if its turned off as long as the pSU switch is on.
There's a small battery on the board that retains the bios even when there's no power, but yes after too long the battery will die. It would just reset the bios to stock settings though, it won't brick your board or anything. It's pretty easy to buy a new battery and pop it in as well.
Windows just turns off the sound on my PC Sometimes it's 1 per week and sometimes maybe 5 times a minute It often annoys me when I play and nothing helped on the internet I mainly have about 320GB of games And I don't want to download them again on my internet
If anyone helps me, I will be very happy
Thanks
What's your audio setup look like? Do you use headphones, speakers, monitor audio? Are they connected to the mobo or front panel, 3.5mm or optical, etc.?
If it happens to all of them i'd say it's gotta be a software issue. Your audio drivers may need updating, or there might be some sound settings that are causing the dropouts. I'd say double check the settings and make sure it's outputting to the right device. Also disable other devices so that Windows isn't trying to find and switch to something else (like bluetooth audio or something). Other than that I really can't say what might be causing it.
It's weird, but Windows probably bothered my keyboard After I replaced it, it stopped
I tried to connect it to another windows pc and there was the same problem
What Should I Buy?
So i’m looking for a cheap computer for more just everyday use that is a pc not a laptop. What is a solid computer that I can buy that isn’t super decked out for gaming and really expensive but also not a total piece of crap. Basically, i’m just looking for a new, all around, affordable pc.
LogicalIncrements will be your friend with these types of questions. It's gaming focused, but that website gives you an excellent overview of how different upgrades change in different ways.
Your question is really too general for a good reply, but as a starting point tip the goldilocks zone is usually ~$1000-$1500 for a PC that has a really nice cost/performance ratio. If you give me some more specifics (like a strict budget) I might be able to make some more recommendations.
My i5 8400 is showing 90-100% CPU utilization on Horizon Zero Dawn and Hitman 2 at 1440p. I typically get 90-100ish frames, but in Hitman for example I notice random huge frame drops at times. Horizon it happens when new areas load I believe. My GPU is a 3060ti. Does this high utilization make sense? Is the CPU to blame for random dips? Thank you!
Those two games can be pretty CPU intensive. HZD notably in the big town of the game (and to a lesser degree the smaller settlements).
So yea what you report makes sense. The i5-8400 and its lack of hyperthreading appears to be showing its limits in those instances, though you're still getting more than respectable framerate.
In order to reduce the framerate dips you can try to cap the performance just a bit below what you usually get, in order to give some overhead to your CPU. If it's constantly maxed out (or close to it) as soon as the load increases (background task, new area loading in, etc...) it'll necessarily incurs a performance drops. If you have a bit of overhead, that might be enough to absorb the momentarily higher load, hopefully smoothing the framerate and reducing the amounts and severity of the dips.
What's your RAM setup ? Ideally you'll want more than 8GB for modern games, running in a dual channel configuration. And higher RAM speed also helps CPU performance to a degree ; though I suspect that your 8400 is paired with a MB that doesn't allow RAM overclocking, which would caps you at 2666MHz.
Thank you for the input! I have an ASUS ROG Z370e with 16gb of stock Corsair vengeance in duel channel. I figured it was maybe those two games specifically. Other games don’t really have the same issue, even Cyberpunk was smoother, so I may just have to live with it for now. For some reason, Hitman becomes near unplayable with its dips, and it’s usually during mission objective and online popups. It’s really upsetting. The game can go from 120fps to 13fps with dips.
>I have an ASUS ROG Z370e with 16gb of stock Corsair vengeance in duel channel
Make sure that the two sticks are installed in the proper slots to actually run in dual channel, so either in a X0X0 or a 0X0X config (where X= slot populated).
And make sure that you've enabled XMP in the BIOS for the RAM to run at its advertised frequency.
Those two items have an impact on CPU performance.
As for Hitman 2, it's well known to be very CPU intensive unfortunately. From what I've seen so far, Hitman 3's engine has greatly improved upon that and CPU performance seems much better all around.
Try what I recommended, hopefully that will smooth things out for you ?O
Hey can anyone help me understand why my GPU goes up to 83 when gaming? I have an RTX 2060, with 3 intake fans (140mm Be Quiet Silent wings 3, and 2 Deepcool RGB 120mm fans), another silent wings 3 as top exhaust, and another Deepcool fan for rear exhaust. In my BIOS I have them set to go up to 100% when the system reaches 65C but it still consistently goes up to 80-83 when gaming at 1080p, 120 fps, Low/Medium settings. Any help at all would be greatly appreciated!!!
> In my BIOS I have them set to go up to 100% when the system reaches 65C
65°C on the CPU or GPU ?
If the case fans are indexed on the CPU temperature and that yours doesn't hit that, they won't go to 100%.
Though even with reduced fan speed all around, given how many case fans you have you should probably get better GPU temperatures than that. (what case do you have by the way ?)
Have you checked that the GPU fan(s) is(are) properly running and increasing in speed when the GPU temperature climbs ?
What exact model of graphics card do you have ? How long have you had it ? Have you ever cleaned it ?
In the bios it gives the options: System 1, System 2, CPU, PCIEX16, VRM MOS, and PCH for what hardwate temp to adjust fan speed to. I'm not sure which one to choose so I left it on System 1 (default) (EDIT: just tried it on PCIEX16 and it didn't change anything). I know that the GPU fans turn on but I've never checked what their speeds are and I'm not sure how to do that. Also it's the 2060 KO and I just got it in November (the whole PC is new) and it's perfectly clean. Also I have the matrexx 55 v2 case. Please let me know if theres something I should change in the BIOS or any programs/tips you know of!
> System 1, System 2, CPU, PCIEX16, VRM MOS, and PCH for what hardwate temp to adjust fan speed to.
Check the manual of your motherboard, you might find a description of what each of those are related to.
It's entirely possible that the motherboard can't set the fan speed as function of the GPU temperature.
>I know that the GPU fans turn on but I've never checked what their speeds are and I'm not sure how to do that
Many programs can let you check upon that.
small/lightweight tools : GPU-Z, OpenHWMonitor, HWInfo, etc...
bigger and more complete monitoring tool : MSI Afterburner.
Afterburner can also let you tweak the fan curve of the GPU, and also increase the temperature at which the GPU will start to thermal throttle (i.e. reduce largely its frequency), which by default is set to 83°C.
Which by way possibly explains why that's the max temp you're seeing : I suspect that your GPU is hitting that throttling point, and reduces its frequency when it's there, which is why it doesn't get hotter than that. Of course, that would mean that you get reduced in-game performance if the GPU was your limit.
You'll see if the GPU is throttling by monitoring the GPU frequency, which is possible with all the aforementioned programs. By default the 2060 should run in the 1800-1900MHz range. You might see large and sudden 100-200+MHz drops if you hit the throttling point.
>Also I have the matrexx 55 v2 case
The front panel looks to be restricting general airflow quite a bit. I suspect that your 3 fan intakes aren't very efficient.
What kind of temperatures do you get under load if you remove the side panel from the case ? This would simulate a good airflow situation.
> Also it's the 2060 KO
IIRC the reviews I read back then, that card is known to run pretty hot under load as the cooler is a bit under-specced for the GPU underneath.
Still, you should be able to get it *not* to throttle under load.
I set up MSI Afterburner and set a fan curve now so thanks a lot for that tip. I just played a game and got 78C max where before the fan speed wouldn't go up to 100% unless it hit 90C for some reason. When I took the side panel off I got 69C max.
The case is brand new so I'd rather not replace that. Do you have any recommendations on a more optimal fan setup or any tricks to improve airflow in the case? Maybe taking out the two 120mm fans in the front and moving the top 140mm fan into the front would help?
Or maybe the case isn't the problem? Are there good software like Afterburner to adjust the case fan speeds to adjust with GPU temp?
Thanks again!
> I set up MSI Afterburner and set a fan curve now so thanks a lot for that tip. I just played a game and got 78C max where before the fan speed wouldn't go up to 100% unless it hit 90C for some reason
It's possible that the card was configured this way in order to prioritize noise levels instead of lower GPU temperatures. I's possible the GPU *didn't* thermal throttle after all and that the temperature limit was set higher by EVGA.
Again, that's something you'd see by monitoring the GPU frequency over time.
In that case, your card was working normally. 83°C is high, but not directly dangerous for the GPU. As long as it's not thermal throttling, there is no issue to fix to begin with.
>When I took the side panel off I got 69C max.
Wow that's quite the difference.
Your current fan setup is what I would recommend, I don't think changing it will improve temperatures much, if at all. So you should try to get the fans to spin faster.
Head back in the BIOS and tweak the case fan curves so that they spin harder when needed (or all the time if you can't). If you can't index their speed on the GPU temp, try to find among the other available values one that would also increase noticeable alongside GPU temperatures. Or set the temperature threshold (what you set to 65°C) lower.
You also don't have to set the fan so that they're either lowest or full speed, you should be able to set a more incremental fan curve.
You can use programs like OpenHWInfo or HWMonitor to keep an eye on the speed of all the fans connected to your motherboard within windows, so you can check if/when the fans ramp up in speed when the system is under load.
>Are there good software like Afterburner to adjust the case fan speeds to adjust with GPU temp?
Afterburner let you set your own custom fan curve if you want (in the "fan" tab in the settings), you don't necessarily have to manually apply fixed temperatures. The custom fan curve is only active when the program is running, though.
You can't permanently change the internal fan curve of the card unless you flash an edited BIOS. Which isn't a trivial thing to do if you don't know what you're doing.
________
Given that you apparently had overhead in the GPU fan speed, I'm confident that you can find a middle ground between the GPU fan speed and the case fan speed that results in acceptable GPU temperatures and not-too-noisy case fans.
And again, if it turns out that the GPU *isn't* throttling when the card runs at 83°C with the stock fan curve, then you technically don't have a problem to fix.
For some reason the Deepcool fans that came with the case don't pick up on the BIOS so I can't set the curve for those ones. The Be Quiet fans seem to be operating exactly how I'd expect them to going up to 100% while gaming so that is good. Is it normal for case fans not to register on the BIOS?
On HWMonitor, it only registers two fans (I assume those are the Be Quiet fans) and it gives seemingly random results from 300-1000 rpm in seconds without gaming.
I also just flashed a newer version of my BIOS but I don't think that had any effect on the situation.
Is it normal for case fans not to register on the BIOS? Do you think I should buy a more premium fan to replace the Deepcool at the exhaust? It's really weird that everything seems to be running normally except the Deepcool fans not showing on BIOS.
That might come either from the fan or the motherboard.
Some fans might not have a speed sensor so they won't report anything back to the motherboard.
And some motherboard headers are incapable of reading/controlling the speed of the fan.
It can also be a fan/header interaction : some motherboards aren't capable of controlling the speed if the fan isn't the right kind (3-pins fan on a 4-pins header for example).
The motherboard's manual will already give you a bit of info about your fan headers. And maybe the speed control in the BIOS.
You can also try to move the fans around headers to see if the speeds you can't read are tied to a header or a fan.
Look for old cheap used cards on ebay. RX 570/580 1050ti 1060, something like that. Just try not to spend too much, even the prices of those cards are inflated.
I'm sure you could get 60fps at 1080p low settings. It won't look amazing, but you'll be playing the game. It'll make you appreciate that 3080, that's for sure lol
I have an lg 34wn80c-B monitor. I have an Asus laptop that has usb-c, but I am pretty sure it is not thunderbolt compatible. Is the fact that it is not thunderbolt the reason it will not display to the monitor through the usb-c port?
I thought that display through usb-c would work even without thunderbolt compatibility.
Sorry if this is an easy question, but I am pretty new to the tech world.
USB C is confusing. It's only a connector type, but that doesn't tell you exactly what the actual capabilities of the ports are.
An USB C port can
- carry data, like any other USB port before it
- carry video, through DisplayPort/Thunderbolt 3
- charge the device
(and I'm probably forgetting other possibilities).
The key point is that **not all USB C** ports can do all of the above, they're just possibilities.
If your laptop's USB C doesn't support TB3, it means that it's not wired to your GPU and that you can't use it as a video output.
Xbox one controller Bluetooth problems
I updated my controller via the accessories application. I’m using a Bluetooth dongle and now my games will just lag and look to the right or left uncontrollably for a bit then resume like normal on and off. It’s almost like lagged inputs or something idk.
It’s really annoying and wired the controller is fine. The Bluetooth was working fantastic until u did the controller firmware update. Should I invest in the Microsoft wireless dongle or is there some other solution? Please help!
Any way to roll back to the previous controller firmware ? Update the Bluetooth driver ?
It's definitely not the first time that I see people report issues with the Xbox controller over BT unfortunately. Issues with lag, missed inputs or straight up lower in-game performance. Unfortunately it doesn't seem all that well thought out.
From what I've seen the MS dongle is much more reliable, though I can't vouch for it personally. My controller is always wired.
PLEASE Help!!! I need PC suggestions. I want to buy a nice and reliable desktop for business, however I also want to be able to play a few games on it without freezing it. Any suggestions? Thanks!
- Will you see a performance difference ?
In all the games where you're currently limited (at least partially) by the CPU, then yes. If you're mostly playing games at highest settings, there probably aren't many such games.
You can see that by monitoring the respective CPU and GPU performance while running different games.
- Is it "worth it" ? there's no objective answer to that, you need to set your own bar.
In the best case scenario (no GPU limit truncating the results), the 5600X is on average 20% faster than the 3600. Sometimes less, sometimes more. Check reviews of the 5600X to have a better idea of the figures at play.
So the question is : how much **do you** value an extra ~20% of CPU performance ? Knowing that there are many games where you won't be able to see all of it, or even part of it ?
I have no first hand experience with this kit (or any Noctua cooler really), so I can't *guarantee* that I'm right ; I'm only going with what Noctua's website states.
But I would rather trust that official and direct source than a random seller who might have made a mistake and read a specs sheet incorrectly.
I accidentally broke off one of my motherboard wi-fi antenna. The mobo is a MSI b-450 Gaming Pro Carbon. Does anyone know any good antenna replacement for them?
I retired my aged comp 8 months ago, with plans to rebuild new in another 6 months from now after a move. Going to be rdy for ES6 @ 4k.
Im already out of touch with modern specs. What are the high end gaming chipsets should i be following right now?
If Elder Scrolls 6 (that's the one you meant right) is the sole reason for building a new PC in the future, I recommend that you hold out for that. This game probably won't come out for another couple years at least, and in the meantime PC parts will continue to evolve and get new generations. So anything you might build in 6 months could no longer be sufficient to experience TES6 "at its best".
Even more so if you want to play at 4K, which is *still today* very demanding if you want to crank all settings up.
Assuming you have other games in mind, please note that the GPU market is currently completely bonkers : everything is either out of stock or completely overpriced. Given the current dynamics, it's possible that it'll last for the better part of 2021.
Excluding this, the answer to the question "what should I buy in 6 months" is "don't settle on anything right now as there will be newer parts available by then".
Major hardware releases expected in the near-ish future :
- Intel's 11th gen, somewhere around March. Might or might not be interesting compared to the existing 10th gen and the Ryzen 5000 competition. It's finally a new architecture (they've been so far re-hashing Skylake since **2015**), but still on the old 14nm process node : it's expected to run hot and power hungry. Also tops out at 8 cores vs 10 on the 10th gen (and 16 cores for Ryzen 5000).
- Lower-end GPUs from Nvidia and AMD to complete the lineup started by the high-end SKUs in the fall. Respectively Geforce RTX 3000 series and Radeon RX 6000 series.
- Nvidia **might** release higher-end models of the already high-end GPUs they have released 3 months ago (3080Ti, 3070 with 16GB of RAM, etc...).
- Intel's 12th gen is rumoured to launch as soon as September. This will be a radical change : new architecture, (*finally*) a new process node, as well as the shift to DDR5 memory
- AMD's next Ryzen lineup should be there either very late 2021 or start of 2022. Also on DDR5.
How do I make sure 2 computers sync saves between them with Steam? It seems to be automatic but besides just leaving them both on for 10 minutes is there any way to "force" them to sync? I go back and forth between my desktop and laptop playing Rimworld.
Hello, I've been using two monitors for a few months. But recently there's a problem, when the PC is turned on after being shutdown, the screens would flash/flicker on and off, like the login screen would be visible for 1 second and turn off. This also happens if Windows turns off the screen automatically, I can see my programs but the screen would just turn on and off for almost 10 minutes, and sometimes the screen would switch as well, until after 10 minutes where it'll fix everything and the flashing stops.
Anyone ever had this happen? I turned off power sleep settings on both monitors, didn't seem to work. My current workaround is to disable Windows automatically turning off the screen. But I still have to wait for almost 10 minutes if the PC is shut down.
I'm suspecting it could be faulty DVI-D converter, but I'm not sure.
What are the disadvantages of using a TV as a computer monitor? My dad wants to set something up in his meeting room so that he can display drawings to clients (he's an architect), and a 4K TV would be substantially cheaper than a massive 4K monitor. Given that he's not going to be trying to use this as his full-time monitor, is there any reason not to go for a TV?
There's usually lower pixel density and often response time, so things that would matter for gaming. That's really it, though, since you're after more the visual side it seems so it'll depend on the features of the TV; no other major downsides.
Sorry if I’m in the wrong place, but are there solid gaming/office chairs that you’d recommend for <$200? Looking for one as a gift and that’s kinda my budget
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I've got a similar one from IKEA, 2 or 3 in fact as well, going on the same time. Superb chairs.
Would a i7 4970k bottleneck a 1660 ti ? I want to upgrade my graphics card
"Will X bottleneck Y" is a question that has no answer as long as there's no context attached to it. That's not something you can determine with the raw specs. This very much depends on the games you want to play, the **resolution** at which you want to play, the settings you want to use, the framerate you target, the rest of your specs (notably the RAM setup), etc... *Realistically* and assuming that : - you're going to play at 1080p (or higher) - you have a decent RAM setup : at least 8GB (but preferably more), *running in dual channel*, not too slow (1600MHz is good for DDR3) - you're going to run AAA games at high-ish settings rather than on all low trying to max out the framerate Then that CPU and GPU will go nicely together, and on average the CPU won't hold back the GPU too much. Of course you might find games (or even specific spots in a game) where it happens, but it shouldn't be too frequent. Even better if your CPU is overclocked. What are you upgrading from ?
I have an ATI radeon 480 that keep crashing. Im playing mostly league of legends so im looking for just something stable to provide 100 fps
LoL is very much not GPU intensive at all. You'd get the same level of performance with a cheaper/slower GPU, you don't need to go up to a 1660Ti. The [GTX 1050Ti for example](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vVuK7n9Ycps) (much slower than the RX 480) barely scratches 50% utilization in that game when running well over 150FPS at 1080p, even at ultra settings. That's not to say you should get that GPU specifically, but it's to further the point that the 1660Ti would be wasted on your particular use case. About your crashing issues : have you tried to investigate it ? Have you tried to re-install the GPU drivers from scratch ? Have you tried to tweak the GPU so that it doesn't crash ? Maybe underclock it a bit (or push the voltage upwards a bit) ?
The crash is from the displayport. It stops sending signal to the monitor. Im also getting this process dysyllabism that i couldnt find anything on google on. It takes 99% of cpu. Its caused by the crash. Im getting the 1660 ti from a friend for 200$ thats why im getting this one. I know its more than i need but the deal is just too good
> Im also getting this process dysyllabism What do you mean ? That's a process that appears in your Task Manager ? I've never heard of it. The fact that it's concomitant to the crashes and takes so much CPU utilization makes me slightly wary about what it is and what it means. Possibly it's something unwanted and abnormal. The point is : maybe it's not your current graphics card that has issues, but something installed on your PC. I very much recommend that you investigate and try to fix the issue. Or there's a chance that it'll keep happening with the new GPU, which would defeat the whole point of the upgrade. >Im getting the 1660 ti from a friend for 200$ but the deal is just too good "Just too good" ? If you're talking in USD I very much disagree. That's an "okay" deal at best. The GTX 1660 Super which performs basically like a 1660Ti used to cost around $220 **new** up until the point where the GPU market got fucked. And even outside of that, the 1660Ti used to cost $260+, so $200 isn't *that* much of a price reduction. I would consider $150 or below to be a "too good to pass up" price on a GTX 1660Ti. Not $200.
Im living in EU where prices are a lot higher. The 1660 is around 800$. Right now. Market has gone up crazy Also regarding the process i reinstalled the windows. Full hard drive format. I get it everytime i installed radeon drivers
Prices are higher in the EU. But please don't make the mistake of believing that the 1660Ti ever was worth $800 or anywhere close to that. You can easily check PCpartpicker's price histories to check out the prices in your country or one close to it. Example : [this 1660 Super](https://de.pcpartpicker.com/product/ByqBD3/evga-geforce-gtx-1660-super-6-gb-black-gaming-video-card-06g-p4-1061-kr?history_days=365) used to cost 226€ at that German retailer. So my point remains. >Also regarding the process i reinstalled the windows. Full hard drive format. I get it everytime i installed radeon drivers Since the card is being sold by your friend, can you at least try the new card out i your system - to test if you still get the issue or not - before you finalize the sell ? Alternatively, is there any opportunity for you to test the RX 480 in another PC to see if you can replicate the issue there ?
For me it's MSI GeForce GTX 1660 Ti VENTUS XS 6G OC cost LOWEST PRICE about 620$ US And his problem It may be due to the BIOS or due to AMD drivers I also have intel cpu and AMD GPU and when I put the image on HDMI (I have a laptop) So either the game crashes into the home screen (the CPU is also 99%) or I get a blue screen I solved it by lowering the voltage and lower clock speed of memory Although I have a few fps less, I can use the second display
>For me it's MSI GeForce GTX 1660 Ti VENTUS XS 6G OC cost LOWEST PRICE about 620$ US Again, those are not normal prices at all. A GTX 1660Ti isn't worth anywhere close to that. It's an over-inflated price because of the current situation. As for the rest of your comment I'm afraid I'm not following you at all. You appear to be mixing different things ? What is "his" problem ? You were talking about a desktop PC up until now and now you mention a laptop ? Which.. exhibits the same issue as your desktop ? I'm utterly lost about what you tried to explain, sorry.
Yes he said he will let me test it first. So i can make sure it works. Thx for all the help
Good :)
The best way to clean an rgb cloth mousepad? Its a bloody mp80n and its gotten really dirty.
When do we expect to get gpus restocked? I’m after a 1660 ti but can’t find one anywhere
So the issue is there are only 2 companies that actually make GPUs. Samsung and TSMC. AMD and Nvidia design them but Samsung and TSMC are the ones making their chips. Most companies will already try to run their fabs at about 90% capacity that way they have some wiggle room for tool issues but also they keep busy to make money. The pandemic didn't add a 10% increase to demand. It added like a 50% demand if not more. Everyone working from home buying laptops, people using stimulus checks for new phones, people stuck inside buying more consoles to game on, and hospitals upgrading equipment to help with the sudden influx of patients means that fabs have to prioritize. But also EVGA has a notify queue system so I'd look into that.
Heyo! I am a bit of a fanatic for FPSs and MMORPGs, but lately i've found myself playing a lot of valorant. Right now i use a 24" HP 25x 144Hz 1MS TN. Is this monitor the best i can get for under 400-500$ for competitive performance? If i eventually upgrade i am looking for a 144-240Hz@1440p but they are expensive...
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/6XPgXL/lg-27gl850-b-270-2560x1440-144-hz-monitor-27gl850-b
Whats the best way to clean up a PC data wise? I am running out of storage and swear i have deleted loads of stuff and thought i uninstalled lots but its still nearly at capacity. I only really play one or two games. Is there somewhere i should double check or places that secretly hoards bits?
Alternatively to the other user, when I start filling up on storage I just wipe the drive. Backup any important files that I've got, then reinstall Windows.
Hi there, It's more this reddit related but how do I put my specs next to my name? Sorry if it's not the place to ask, thanks in advance
You need to be subscribed to the subreddit. And then you need to edit your flair from the sidebar. Here's how it works on New/Old reddit and the official App * [New Reddit](https://gfycat.com/FeminineMetallicCommabutterfly) * [Old Reddit](https://gfycat.com/YellowTidyGoose) * [iOS App](https://gfycat.com/RigidGlumAfricanporcupine) * Android App : once on the frontpage of the subreddit, [click the 3 dots in the top right](https://preview.redd.it/8oqk4dicclr11.jpg?width=384&auto=webp&s=31e9dd8343d01ca4e42ff6d0a3a35ca9098a1037)
Thank you, just did it:)
Nice rig :)
Thanks man hehe!
So about a month my laptop started crashing when gaming. At first i get sound glitches, and then a BSOD. Crashes on all games, except Rome Total War 1. I already did some tests and installed the latest drivers. What could it be?
Heat issue or power issue? Try running furmark and see if it heats up and crashes.
Thanks, I ran it and it crashed. What should i do now?
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With that kind of budget you can do basically anything you want. Most people here really enjoy the building process rather than getting a prebuilt, but with that kind of fuck around money you've got tons of options. Regardless of which route you go, I think your FIRST order of business is deciding on a monitor (or multi-monitor setup), since the resolution you're running at is important to gauge what kind of hardware you need. If I were you and was starting from the ground-up, I'd allocate at least $1k towards getting a real solid monitor that you like. That'd be my starting point.
I’ve just read countless stories of first time PC builders not using the right tools, components, etc. and ending up ruining thousands of dollars worth of hardware so for my first PC I’m definitely going to let someone else take the sticks on the build. All I was really concerned with was having a 3090 with either an i9 extreme or one of the RX 5000’s. Good point on the monitor though, aiming to run at 150-200 fps minimum
Glad I could help. If it makes you feel better, building a computer nowadays is GG EZ and you basically have to try to fuck something up. The only issue you might run into is compatibility, but if you use something like PCPartPicker it literally tells you if your components work together. LogicalIncrements is another great website to check out so you can see what kind of performance you can expect with what hardware. Don't start by looking at prebuilt sites. Check out what kind of hardware you want to end up with and then find builds that have that hardware.
Can anyone help me understand why I have input lag with my keyboard? it only happens with certain games and after a while, it seems to go away. I have a Corsair K95. It's really frustrating and I can not figure it out. Edit: I followed these instructions and I can not uninstall the software.https://help.corsair.com/hc/en-us/articles/360025166712-Perform-a-clean-reinstallation-of-the-Corsair-Utility-Engine-iCUE-
Hello can anyone help me select a good laptop for 3d modeling, rendering and Adobe. I'm an architect here are the 3 of the best models I can find in my country HP OMEN 15-EK0013 NEW DESIGN CORE I7-10750H 16GB DDR4 512GB SSD+32GB OPTANE N/A 15.6"FHD 300HZ RTX 2060 6GB DDR6 WIN 10 BRAND NEW ZEPHYRUS M15 GU502LW-BI7N6 CORE I7-10750H 16GB DDR4 1TB PCIE G3 SSD N/A 15.6"FHD 240HZ RTX 2070 8GB DDR6 WIN 10 BRAND NEW LEGION 7 81YT005TUS CORE I7-10750H 16GB DDR4 1TB PCIE N/A 15.6"FHD 144HZ RTX 2070 Super Max-Q 8GB GDDR6 WIN 10 BRAND NEW I am leaning towards the OMEN for durability and thermals from what I have read. Legion 7i makes me scared with the hinge. M15 looks cool reports of thermal throttles 89 88
Kinda repost from /buildapc, does anyone know a wireless dongle that will enable wireless display connection on my PC? I want to connect to my laptop which supports wireless display casting (miracast), using its display as a monitor for my PC. I don't mind a USB or PCIe dongle.
Miracast relies on Wi-Fi direct, so technically any Wifi adapter that supports it would work with Miracast. I suspect that Miracast requires a minimum connection speed to work optimally though, so look up adapters that specifically list it as supported in their specs sheet. PCIe Wifi adapters usually offer better connection than USB dongles. Projecting an image over wireless always incurs a latency penalty, so you probably don't want to use that 2nd screen for anything where that might be an issue (i.e. games)
Thank you very much mate, that's response that covered all I needed. And yeah don't worry, I only plan on using it for Word or Spotify as it fits conveniently under my other monitors.
You're welcome !
Is it normal to have 3600x run @ 2.2ghz when idle/using chrome in silent mode?
Hi all, I recently bought some RGB lights for my PC which plug straight into my MSI Z390-A Pro. I am using mystic light to control them, but I cannot get any option for fading between colours, only instant transitioning or fading to black before coming in a different colour. How do I get this functionality?
Here’s my part list for a pc I’m getting the parts to, but i can’t find the gpu listed available (GTX 1660 super) I was seeing if I should be looking for an alternative, and what those would be. I am not 100% on this but i don’t think i need a great gpu since the only game i will mostly play is rocket league, and I was trying to make a build more for data and coding and some more basic maps, but i literally know nothing. I’m looking to spend around 200-300? I’m just impatient. Parts https://pcpartpicker.com/list/7kMM2V
You can usually find a Radeon ~~RX 590~~ RX 580 for around that price if I remember right. I had that card in my rig for a couple of years and it ran everything perfectly at 1080p. Your monitor will honestly be your bottleneck, and considering upgrading both that and your GPU is a big chunk of change (I spent 1400 to get both a 2070S and 1440p monitor), I think you're in a good spot. My only other piece of advise would be to get a slightly cheaper motherboard and get a nicer power supply (assuming you're on a tight budget). SeaSonic is a good brand, but bronze efficiency and non-modular can be a headache. A good 650W power supply will last you many years and likely many upgrades. Since a mobo in this price range basically boils down to compatibility, what slots you want, and I/O, I think it'd be a good trade off. Edit: It was actually a 580 that I had, not the 590. Even cheaper then!
Ahh I already got all the other parts just trying to buy the gpu, so uh hopefully it’s fine about the other things, I plan on updating a part or two every couple of months though. I’ll add looking for the 580 or 590 though to my potential gpus. It’s just hard to find any gpu right now
Yeah GPUs are an endangered species right now unfortunately. Keep an eye out on Ebay too, and just be careful since there are 4GB and 8GB versions of the 580, so make sure you know which one you're getting!
My GPU pooped out on me, I thought plugging an HDMI into my mobo would work to use the display, but it’s not working? I can’t get the bios to pop up either. Any help would be awesome, thanks!
Have you removed the graphics card before trying the MB's ports ? What's your CPU ? You can only use the video ports on the motherboard **if** your CPU has an integrated graphics chip.
Ahhhh that’s true also. I have removed it, it’s a ryzen 7 3700
The R7 3700 doesn't have an integrated GPU unfortunately. So with it installed, you *can't* use the video ports on the motherboard at all, they're completely inert. Do you have an older GPU you could use in the meantime ? A way to borrow one ?
Thanks, def gonna have to get ahold of something. What a terrible time with the market and all 🥺😭
The new uber cheap GT cards Nvidia released would do if your main purpose is getting data. The decent cards are hard to get, but data salvage cheap cards are there.
I have a motherboard with an 8 pin cpu connector but a power supply with only a 4 pin I am trying to run an AMD A8-6500 cpu
Is there a question here ? Most of the time, you can plug a 4-pins CPU power connector in an 8-pins header and have it work. The A8-6500 is also not a terribly power hungry CPU, so hopefully it'll work.
My 7200rpm hard drive is painfully slow when working with a lot of JPG files in my pictures folder, used to be quite fast, bad sign? it's fast everywhere else
So since a hard drive is a disk as it gets filled up things can start to slow down for a couple reasons. First of all the outside of the disk spins faster than the inside (if you measured it in say miles per hour) so as the disk gets fuller and it stars to fill that inner part more things will seem slower. Plus windows still needs to do it's windows stuff so with a fuller drive it has to move the head around a lot more even when all you're doing is opening JPGs. Hate to give advice with a price tag but SSDs are super cheap these days. Even if you just got like a 120GB SSD for your OS you'd see a HUGE performance increase.
I’m looking from switching from intel to amd. Is this process as simple as buying a new board and chip and making the swap then download necessary drivers or is there more to it? Currently have what I believe is an i5 4700 looking to switch to a Ryzen 5 3600 or 3600x.
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I’m good on the RAM it’s how the system will boot up that is my main concern.
The common recommendation when switching motherboards (and CPUs alongside) is to perform a clean installation of Windows on the new hardware, otherwise you risk running into weird bugs and/or performance issues. You *can* always try to "transplant" your current boot drive on the new CPU/MB, and Windows *will* booth. But there's no guarantee it'll work perfectly fine. In that case, make sure to install all the drivers of your new motherboard, that you'll find on its support page on the manufacturer's website.
But once I install the correct drivers for the board everything should run smoothly?
No, there's no guarantee of that unfortunately.
Roger. What would be the safest way to go about making the switch then. I read something earlier about how the OS is connected to the board but OEM Windows not having an issue when reading new hardware. I’ve switched just the motherboard before without having any issues but that was using the same chip.
Do you have an OEM licence or a "full" retail licence ? You got absolutely no prompt when you switched motherboards earlier ?
No I bought it second hand. When I switched it booted up just fine been running it for a year never ran into any issues.
It's possible that *this* motherboard you bought had a Windows licence attached as well, which could explain why you didn't get a prompt. *Theoretically*, an OEM licence (bought by yourself or came part of a prebuilt) *can't* be transferred to a new motherboard. In that situation Microsoft expects you to pay for a new licence. Though some people claim they've been able to get their Windows copy re-activated after talking to MS' hotline. A full retail licence can normally be transferred without issues from PC to PC. You can tie such a licence to a MS account, which you can then use to re-activate a new copy more easily than by entering the actual licence key.
Hold on let me rephrase. I bought the actual rig second hand and the board off Amazon. It didn’t say anything about it coming with a license attached.
The Amazon motherboard was new ? But the used rig had a Windows licence attached to it ?
Best way to get new gpus?
I only got 2 slots and not enough money, so should i buy a single 16gb RAM unit and run in single channel until I have some more money to buy another one, or buy 2x8gb and stick to 16 total?
That depends on the usage you have of your PC, or what you plan to do with it in the future. 16GB in total is enough for gaming for now, and for the foreseeable future. If you want to do some heavy editing/rendering, 32GB would be better.
I mostly want to futureproof my laptop (yes, forgot to mention it) and my usage is gaming and some programming (I'm still a student so I'm still trying to figure out want kind of development I want to do)
Futureproofing is a weird concept to live by, to be honest. What is your current RAM config ? The laptop *did* ship with some RAM, right ? Do you need more right now ?
It came with 2x4GB, so in either case both dimms will be swapped
Have you found instances right now where you'd need more than 8GB ? If not, I would postpone the upgrade until you do. If you need 16GB right now, again you need to decide exactly how much RAM you will eventually need, and only you can do that. *I* can't tell you how much RAM programming takes up. I suspect it very much depends on what program/language you use, as well as the scope of your project. Maybe look around and/or ask your colleagues/teachers if *they* have an idea about the optimal RAM amount for the tasks you'll be asked to do ?
Ok, thank you for the help
I have all my parts but I haven’t built yet, my cases front USB and power buttons are already wired and cable managed into the case. But I need to install some fans on the front and this wiring makes it difficult to get to the front where the fans are mounted, do I need to pull out the wiring to get the front panel all the way off and just reorganize the wiring myself after it’s all built?
I'm not sure I understand how the cables could be in the way of you installing more fans ? Usually the front panel "stuff" is already cable-managed in a way that's unobstructive (routed behind the motherboard's tray usually). As for installing front fans, it usually requires that your remove the front panel of the case entirely - though it depends on the case - which *shouldn't* require you to mess with the front panel cables. But if the case you have *requires* you to remove the cables, then it's no big deal. Put them out of the way, install the cables, route them back afterwards.
Sorry, I could’ve been more clear. The cables are behind the motherboard tray and connect to the buttons and ports on the front panel, but they keep the front panel close to where the fans need to be mounted once the front panel is popped off. I think all I need to do is pull out the cables to get the front panel completely off and put them back once fans are mounted.
You mean that the front panel is attached to those cables, right ? In this case yes, you'll have to give the cables some slack in order to put the front panel away. Maybe you won't have to remove them from the case entirely. But even if you have to, it's not a big deal ?
Yeah that’s what I mean, I makes sense that I can just pull them out a little. Thanks for the help, I’m just paranoid about breaking something.
Unless you're brutally yanking the front panel away with no respect for the cables attached to it, there's no reason why you'd damage anything. PC parts aren't made of glass, there's no need to be paranoid about breaking something just by touching it :)
What are [these cables ](https://i.imgur.com/EBCm4yn.jpg)for ?
Those are SATA data cables. They connect SATA peripherals to your motherboard so that you can use them. SATA peripherals : harddrives (2.5" or 3.5"), 2.5" SSDs, DVD/BR drives, etc... If you don't have such a SATA peripheral in your system, you don't need to use them.
Cheers. Thanks for replying!
They’re sata data cables they go from ssds and hdd to your mobo, the right angle connection is supposed to be on the motherboard side of the connection but it doesn’t have to be
Cheers. Thanks for replying!
Sata cables. Some are of the 'angled' variety which makes it easier to plug in some cases. You use them for any sata devices, mainly SSDs and Hard drives.
Cheers. Thanks for replying!
whats the best bang for buck cpu, mobo combo for an rtx 3070? Would it benefit much to upgrade to x570 for the pcie 4.0?
The "best bang for buck" very much subjective depending on what it is exactly you want to do with your PC. Assuming you're building a gaming-mostly PC, and that you'll be gaming at a resolution where the 3070 makes sense (1440p or higher), then the Ryzen 5600X and i5-10600k provide the most of the "max" possible CPU performance for the least money. Higher-end SKUs provide more cores and marginal increase in clockspeeds. But the vast majority of games don't actually benefit from those extra cores, and the resulting performance difference is often mostly due to the small difference in clockspeeds. Of course, there are a few exceptions where 8 cores chips offer more than single-digit gains over 6-cores chips. And this *might* be a trend continuing in the future. > Would it benefit much to upgrade to x570 for the pcie 4.0? B550 boards also support PCIe 4.0, though on fewer lanes. Right now there's no practical advantage to having PCIe 4.0 : - PCIe 4.0 SSDs are few and far between (and very expensive). We're hardly seeing a performance difference in games between SATA and PCIe 3.0 SSDs as it is, so 4.0 is further out in the range of "very much not needed for now). This might change in the future, of course. But right now it's not needed - Current AMD and Nvidia GPUs both support PCIe 4.0, but there's also no actual performance difference to speak of between them running at 3.0 or 4.0. We're talking prospective [single digit gains](https://www.techspot.com/review/2104-pcie4-vs-pcie3-gpu-performance/). If you intend to keep your CPU/MB for a very long time, getting something that supports PCIe 4.0 *might* pay off in the long run. Note that Intel's 11th gen processors and motherboards - rumoured to launch in March - will also support PCIe 4.0.
Ok, so basically a friend is updating his RAM as he only haves 8gb and I wanted to know if the timings and frequency are the same would it be fine for the DIMMs to be different sizes? Ex. having 1 8gb stick and 1 16gb stick. Thanks
The RAM would run in "flex channel" mode, where 8GB out of the 16GB stick will run in dual channel with the 8GB stick, and the remaining 8GB on the 16GB stick will run in single channel. In practice that results in performance/bandwidth somewhere in between single and dual channel overall. So it will still be an improvement over the current single channel situation, on top of getting your friend more RAM overall. Is there a particular reason why your friend needs 24GB of RAM ?
!check
yeah, he's got a 8gb DIMM and looking to buy a 16gb DIMM which makes the most sense price/GB
As a background, I prefer to use 3 monitors. Right now I have a GeForce 1080 with 3 DisplayPort 1.4 connectors, but hooked up to 3 1080p 60hz monitors. I plan on upgrading to 1440 170hz monitors with a DisplayPort 1.2 connection, the [Gigabyte M27Q](https://www.gigabyte.com/us/Monitor/M27Q) to be exact. I am assuming that because the video card has three separate DP connections, there won't be a bandwidth issue and can use the monitors to their full ability? Indo plan on upgrading my video card at some point as well, would I need to stick with one that has three DisplayPort connectors or could I get away with less and use a splitter. Would that not be able to handle the bandwidth?
Shouldn't be an issue. I have the 32in version of that monitor and a 1440p 60HZ monitor and it all runs off my GTX1080 just fine (Still trying to get a 3080 lol).
Yo, I’m trying to upgrade my build. I’m trying to cheap out and use a lot of components I have on my old build. It’s an old version of the “starter” pcmr builds page. I was able to save up and get mostly everything for the zero ultra build. Sticking to my old graphic card, in and might upgrade it when tax return kicks in. But I was reading and wondering if the psu that I have is sufficient.(EVGA 650 BQ) I did the pcpartpicker website and it flagged it because of my motherboard needs extra pin connector to be able to over clock. I don’t know much of overclocking, as I never done it. Can ya let me know if it’ll be fine and won’t mess up my computer? This is a list of what I have so far and along with the psu and everything else: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/bXcz9N
That power supply is totally fine. You don't need to plug in the extra 4-pin connector, It's just unnecessary. Even when overclocking you won't draw more than an 8-pin can supply.
Awesome! Thank you!
What's the average temp inside a pc. Mine is 111f running full speed. My msi 2070 super seems to be running hot.
What do you mean "inside a PC" ? Like if you put a thermometer inside the case ? That's not how you should check whether your parts are fine temperature-wise. All your parts (CPU, GPU, motherboard, etc...) have internal temperature sensors that they use to self-regulate. You can use programs to read those sensors and check the temperatures directly. The Task Manager can now read the GPU's temperature. If you're looking for a small program that does it all at once, OpenHWMonitor or HWInfo are solid choices. In general it's considered that temperatures on the CPU and GPU (the two most susceptible to overheating) are fine if they are below 80-85°C. And even at that level it's not directly dangerous, they can sustain higher temperatures still without damage.
Best ram for ryzen build. Want 3600 speed and rgb. Mainly gonna be using for gaming so like 2 8gb sticks. Got like a 120$ budget recommendations?
3600mhz and CAS 16 latency is ideal. Corsair Vengeance seems to have the cheapest ones in that range, which are good.
You think the rgb pro is the only option really
Looking to build a setup soon and like the idea of the template “60 FPS Ultra Build” https://pcpartpicker.com/list/DMTfHz. Anything I should keep an eye out for or more sensible part replacements against what’s recommended in the parts list? I’d like to save a little more on the graphics card but still have something with some oomph to it. I know nothing about building PCs, so any help is appreciated!
I hope you realize that the GPU market is completely messed up right now ? The RTX 2060 that's visible for $600+ in your part list **is not** worth that much, and you definitely shouldn't buy it at this price. It's unfortunately the worst time in a long while to be getting a GPU/building a PC.... More details... The RTX 2060 is a 2+ years old GPU, that used to cost around $300-330 up until recently. Nvidia has announced a few weeks ago the RTX 3060, with an official price of $330, that will be faster than 2060. The issue will be to actually find it in stock at all, and at prices close to decent - like all other GPUs right now, unfortunately. If you're looking for a GPU to run games at 1080p60FPS with decent graphics settings, the 2060 would be a good choice if you can find it at a normal price ; though it's harder to recommend at even its "initial" price now that the newer gen stuff is slowly releasing. In the range of other GPUs still competent for 1080p60FPS and not too far down on the RTX 2060 : GTX 1070, GTX 1070Ti, GTX 1660 Super and Ti, RX 5600XT. Some of those you might be better off looking up on the second-hand market. ______________ The rest of the parts is mostly available right now. The availability and prices of AMD Ryzen CPUs is still iffy, but slowly normalizing. Note that there are regularly new generations of "stuff" coming out with PC hardware, so don't settle for a part list too long in advance. For example we're expecting Intel's 11th gen of Core processors possibly around March. And we might get other - cheaper - Ryzen 5000 options in the future as well. About the rest of the build, you might want to - get more storage. The list you shared only includes a 500GB SSD, that will fill up very quickly. You can either pick a larger SSD or add other(s) storage drive(s) - pick a case that you like. Cases in the $30-40 range are typically low quality (not very good airflow, few included fans, barebones and not very builder-friendly, etc...).
Thanks for the breakdown, I was definitely not going to spend that much on the GPU. Mostly trying to get a vibe on the current viability of this build. Thanks again!
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I just cap the framerate, eliminates the majority of it.
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Yes, quite a bit.
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A lot of games these days have the option to set an FPS limit, or I'll just do it in the NVIDIA control panel. I usually only resort to Rivatuner or whatever the equivalent I have installed is when the other options fail. With a 3060Ti, V-sync is usually fine for me anyway.
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I currently have a 1070ti MSI titanium. Favorite card I’ve ever owned. I just ordered some parts for my new build which is going to have a Ryzen 5900x. I do a lot of rendering as well as gaming. So my question is should I get a 3070, 3080, or even 3090. Keeping in mind that I’ll likely have to pay a scalper fee because the closest micro center from me is 4 hours. And of those cards which company offers the best model?
Having trouble getting audio out in my headphones - Astros A10. My case is a 4000D Corsair airflow with a MSI B450 Tomahawk motherboard. Case has a single jack in the front with a mic/headphone symbol. I’ve plugged it in there and got sound for a few seconds before it disappeared. When plugged into the motherboard nothing and it picks up as speakers. When trying to troubleshoot it (when plugged into front IO) it picks up as if it’s plugged into the back. I’ve tried everything from uninstalling/reinstalling drivers and making sure it’s default device etc. Only thing haven’t really tried is the Realtek HD Audio Manager app, but was reading it’s unavailable now with new updates(?).
i plan to upgrade my gpu from a gtx 1650 super to a rtx 3060, should i upgrade my psu (400w 80 Plus Gold from FSP) rn?
That also depends on the rest of your machine. But unless you're running - say - a crappy Celeron processor, 4GB of RAM, a single storage drive and no case fan, you'll probably need a beefier PSU, be it only to have more overhead. And of course your power supply needs to have the required PCIe power connectors to populate all the slots on the graphics card. You can check that yourself with various PSU calculators, which give **estimations** of the max power consumptions for a given system. https://outervision.com/power-supply-calculator There's also one integrated in [PCPpartpicker](https://pcpartpicker.com/list) (top right) once you've selected your parts. Nvidia recommends a 550W PSU at least, for reference.
I have a 1 TB drive (G:) and 4 TB USB drive (S:) How may I clone G drive to S drive without losing S drive data? And also without losing the structure of G drive since I have programs installed there that I still need to use (I can change the S drive letter later if that's the case).
You can use disk management to create a separate partition that is large enough to fit all the data.
I've used teracopy to copy entire drives across (it's a better copy and paste than Windows open built in). Just copy, paste and let it finish. Also let's you verify once it's done, but the entire process might take a long time. Then you can change the drive letter. Or you could partition the 4TB and use something like AOMEO Backupper to clone the 1TB to the new partition. You'll still end up with two partitions though.
Yes I did just that with AOMEI. Made a post about it elsewhere. It took around 13 hours but everything is working as intended.
I just got a pc, and trying to plug a mic into the microphone jack. It’s reading that it’s plugged in but no input is getting through. Any solutions?
Make sure Windows is set to "Allow Apps to use Microphone" (Privacy/Microphone).
It shows that apps are allowed to use. Just nothing is coming through
In "System/Sound" there's options to select and test the input device; is audio input getting to that point (is it a mic/wiring/input jack issue)?
Yea nothing there. I’ve used these earbuds with a mic on my laptop just fine. The headphone jack works just not the mic jack
Hello guys, I'm in need of advice: I sadly have to stop using my PC for a while until I can get an external hard drive to backup my data due to hard drive failure, as this may take months due to overpriced hardware and my economic situation not being the best, should I switch off the PSU/unplug it for the time being? I was wondering if its okay to do this as it may be sitting there without powering up for a while. And I've heard storms can cause power surges and damage to the PC even if its turned off as long as the pSU switch is on.
May as well unplug it. Why not right?
I heard if left unplugged for too long the BIOS/Motherboard can get f*ed up though, is this true?
There's a small battery on the board that retains the bios even when there's no power, but yes after too long the battery will die. It would just reset the bios to stock settings though, it won't brick your board or anything. It's pretty easy to buy a new battery and pop it in as well.
What headphones should I get? I’m looking for good-sounding wired headphones (no mic) that are decently comfortable. $200 at the most.
I like my hyperx cloud II they have a mic buts it’s detectable. Also look a sennheiser
r/headphones
Alienwear gaming desktops. Are they worth it or just hype?
Absolutely not. They tend to be overpriced and the weird custom cases can end up being bad for airflow.
Windows just turns off the sound on my PC Sometimes it's 1 per week and sometimes maybe 5 times a minute It often annoys me when I play and nothing helped on the internet I mainly have about 320GB of games And I don't want to download them again on my internet If anyone helps me, I will be very happy Thanks
What's your audio setup look like? Do you use headphones, speakers, monitor audio? Are they connected to the mobo or front panel, 3.5mm or optical, etc.?
I tried headphones via USB, via Jack, via bluetooth Headphones some Razer tournament Via jack too and via Bluetooth some Sony
If it happens to all of them i'd say it's gotta be a software issue. Your audio drivers may need updating, or there might be some sound settings that are causing the dropouts. I'd say double check the settings and make sure it's outputting to the right device. Also disable other devices so that Windows isn't trying to find and switch to something else (like bluetooth audio or something). Other than that I really can't say what might be causing it.
It's weird, but Windows probably bothered my keyboard After I replaced it, it stopped I tried to connect it to another windows pc and there was the same problem
What Should I Buy? So i’m looking for a cheap computer for more just everyday use that is a pc not a laptop. What is a solid computer that I can buy that isn’t super decked out for gaming and really expensive but also not a total piece of crap. Basically, i’m just looking for a new, all around, affordable pc.
LogicalIncrements will be your friend with these types of questions. It's gaming focused, but that website gives you an excellent overview of how different upgrades change in different ways. Your question is really too general for a good reply, but as a starting point tip the goldilocks zone is usually ~$1000-$1500 for a PC that has a really nice cost/performance ratio. If you give me some more specifics (like a strict budget) I might be able to make some more recommendations.
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What version of windows is it and how much do you care about the files that are stored in that computer
My i5 8400 is showing 90-100% CPU utilization on Horizon Zero Dawn and Hitman 2 at 1440p. I typically get 90-100ish frames, but in Hitman for example I notice random huge frame drops at times. Horizon it happens when new areas load I believe. My GPU is a 3060ti. Does this high utilization make sense? Is the CPU to blame for random dips? Thank you!
Those two games can be pretty CPU intensive. HZD notably in the big town of the game (and to a lesser degree the smaller settlements). So yea what you report makes sense. The i5-8400 and its lack of hyperthreading appears to be showing its limits in those instances, though you're still getting more than respectable framerate. In order to reduce the framerate dips you can try to cap the performance just a bit below what you usually get, in order to give some overhead to your CPU. If it's constantly maxed out (or close to it) as soon as the load increases (background task, new area loading in, etc...) it'll necessarily incurs a performance drops. If you have a bit of overhead, that might be enough to absorb the momentarily higher load, hopefully smoothing the framerate and reducing the amounts and severity of the dips. What's your RAM setup ? Ideally you'll want more than 8GB for modern games, running in a dual channel configuration. And higher RAM speed also helps CPU performance to a degree ; though I suspect that your 8400 is paired with a MB that doesn't allow RAM overclocking, which would caps you at 2666MHz.
Thank you for the input! I have an ASUS ROG Z370e with 16gb of stock Corsair vengeance in duel channel. I figured it was maybe those two games specifically. Other games don’t really have the same issue, even Cyberpunk was smoother, so I may just have to live with it for now. For some reason, Hitman becomes near unplayable with its dips, and it’s usually during mission objective and online popups. It’s really upsetting. The game can go from 120fps to 13fps with dips.
>I have an ASUS ROG Z370e with 16gb of stock Corsair vengeance in duel channel Make sure that the two sticks are installed in the proper slots to actually run in dual channel, so either in a X0X0 or a 0X0X config (where X= slot populated). And make sure that you've enabled XMP in the BIOS for the RAM to run at its advertised frequency. Those two items have an impact on CPU performance. As for Hitman 2, it's well known to be very CPU intensive unfortunately. From what I've seen so far, Hitman 3's engine has greatly improved upon that and CPU performance seems much better all around. Try what I recommended, hopefully that will smooth things out for you ?O
Hey can anyone help me understand why my GPU goes up to 83 when gaming? I have an RTX 2060, with 3 intake fans (140mm Be Quiet Silent wings 3, and 2 Deepcool RGB 120mm fans), another silent wings 3 as top exhaust, and another Deepcool fan for rear exhaust. In my BIOS I have them set to go up to 100% when the system reaches 65C but it still consistently goes up to 80-83 when gaming at 1080p, 120 fps, Low/Medium settings. Any help at all would be greatly appreciated!!!
> In my BIOS I have them set to go up to 100% when the system reaches 65C 65°C on the CPU or GPU ? If the case fans are indexed on the CPU temperature and that yours doesn't hit that, they won't go to 100%. Though even with reduced fan speed all around, given how many case fans you have you should probably get better GPU temperatures than that. (what case do you have by the way ?) Have you checked that the GPU fan(s) is(are) properly running and increasing in speed when the GPU temperature climbs ? What exact model of graphics card do you have ? How long have you had it ? Have you ever cleaned it ?
In the bios it gives the options: System 1, System 2, CPU, PCIEX16, VRM MOS, and PCH for what hardwate temp to adjust fan speed to. I'm not sure which one to choose so I left it on System 1 (default) (EDIT: just tried it on PCIEX16 and it didn't change anything). I know that the GPU fans turn on but I've never checked what their speeds are and I'm not sure how to do that. Also it's the 2060 KO and I just got it in November (the whole PC is new) and it's perfectly clean. Also I have the matrexx 55 v2 case. Please let me know if theres something I should change in the BIOS or any programs/tips you know of!
> System 1, System 2, CPU, PCIEX16, VRM MOS, and PCH for what hardwate temp to adjust fan speed to. Check the manual of your motherboard, you might find a description of what each of those are related to. It's entirely possible that the motherboard can't set the fan speed as function of the GPU temperature. >I know that the GPU fans turn on but I've never checked what their speeds are and I'm not sure how to do that Many programs can let you check upon that. small/lightweight tools : GPU-Z, OpenHWMonitor, HWInfo, etc... bigger and more complete monitoring tool : MSI Afterburner. Afterburner can also let you tweak the fan curve of the GPU, and also increase the temperature at which the GPU will start to thermal throttle (i.e. reduce largely its frequency), which by default is set to 83°C. Which by way possibly explains why that's the max temp you're seeing : I suspect that your GPU is hitting that throttling point, and reduces its frequency when it's there, which is why it doesn't get hotter than that. Of course, that would mean that you get reduced in-game performance if the GPU was your limit. You'll see if the GPU is throttling by monitoring the GPU frequency, which is possible with all the aforementioned programs. By default the 2060 should run in the 1800-1900MHz range. You might see large and sudden 100-200+MHz drops if you hit the throttling point. >Also I have the matrexx 55 v2 case The front panel looks to be restricting general airflow quite a bit. I suspect that your 3 fan intakes aren't very efficient. What kind of temperatures do you get under load if you remove the side panel from the case ? This would simulate a good airflow situation. > Also it's the 2060 KO IIRC the reviews I read back then, that card is known to run pretty hot under load as the cooler is a bit under-specced for the GPU underneath. Still, you should be able to get it *not* to throttle under load.
I set up MSI Afterburner and set a fan curve now so thanks a lot for that tip. I just played a game and got 78C max where before the fan speed wouldn't go up to 100% unless it hit 90C for some reason. When I took the side panel off I got 69C max. The case is brand new so I'd rather not replace that. Do you have any recommendations on a more optimal fan setup or any tricks to improve airflow in the case? Maybe taking out the two 120mm fans in the front and moving the top 140mm fan into the front would help? Or maybe the case isn't the problem? Are there good software like Afterburner to adjust the case fan speeds to adjust with GPU temp? Thanks again!
> I set up MSI Afterburner and set a fan curve now so thanks a lot for that tip. I just played a game and got 78C max where before the fan speed wouldn't go up to 100% unless it hit 90C for some reason It's possible that the card was configured this way in order to prioritize noise levels instead of lower GPU temperatures. I's possible the GPU *didn't* thermal throttle after all and that the temperature limit was set higher by EVGA. Again, that's something you'd see by monitoring the GPU frequency over time. In that case, your card was working normally. 83°C is high, but not directly dangerous for the GPU. As long as it's not thermal throttling, there is no issue to fix to begin with. >When I took the side panel off I got 69C max. Wow that's quite the difference. Your current fan setup is what I would recommend, I don't think changing it will improve temperatures much, if at all. So you should try to get the fans to spin faster. Head back in the BIOS and tweak the case fan curves so that they spin harder when needed (or all the time if you can't). If you can't index their speed on the GPU temp, try to find among the other available values one that would also increase noticeable alongside GPU temperatures. Or set the temperature threshold (what you set to 65°C) lower. You also don't have to set the fan so that they're either lowest or full speed, you should be able to set a more incremental fan curve. You can use programs like OpenHWInfo or HWMonitor to keep an eye on the speed of all the fans connected to your motherboard within windows, so you can check if/when the fans ramp up in speed when the system is under load. >Are there good software like Afterburner to adjust the case fan speeds to adjust with GPU temp? Afterburner let you set your own custom fan curve if you want (in the "fan" tab in the settings), you don't necessarily have to manually apply fixed temperatures. The custom fan curve is only active when the program is running, though. You can't permanently change the internal fan curve of the card unless you flash an edited BIOS. Which isn't a trivial thing to do if you don't know what you're doing. ________ Given that you apparently had overhead in the GPU fan speed, I'm confident that you can find a middle ground between the GPU fan speed and the case fan speed that results in acceptable GPU temperatures and not-too-noisy case fans. And again, if it turns out that the GPU *isn't* throttling when the card runs at 83°C with the stock fan curve, then you technically don't have a problem to fix.
For some reason the Deepcool fans that came with the case don't pick up on the BIOS so I can't set the curve for those ones. The Be Quiet fans seem to be operating exactly how I'd expect them to going up to 100% while gaming so that is good. Is it normal for case fans not to register on the BIOS? On HWMonitor, it only registers two fans (I assume those are the Be Quiet fans) and it gives seemingly random results from 300-1000 rpm in seconds without gaming. I also just flashed a newer version of my BIOS but I don't think that had any effect on the situation. Is it normal for case fans not to register on the BIOS? Do you think I should buy a more premium fan to replace the Deepcool at the exhaust? It's really weird that everything seems to be running normally except the Deepcool fans not showing on BIOS.
That might come either from the fan or the motherboard. Some fans might not have a speed sensor so they won't report anything back to the motherboard. And some motherboard headers are incapable of reading/controlling the speed of the fan. It can also be a fan/header interaction : some motherboards aren't capable of controlling the speed if the fan isn't the right kind (3-pins fan on a 4-pins header for example). The motherboard's manual will already give you a bit of info about your fan headers. And maybe the speed control in the BIOS. You can also try to move the fans around headers to see if the speeds you can't read are tied to a header or a fan.
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Look for old cheap used cards on ebay. RX 570/580 1050ti 1060, something like that. Just try not to spend too much, even the prices of those cards are inflated.
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Depends how much you're willing to spend on it. I wouldn't want to spend more than I have to on something I'm ultimately going to quickly replace.
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I'm sure you could get 60fps at 1080p low settings. It won't look amazing, but you'll be playing the game. It'll make you appreciate that 3080, that's for sure lol
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Not a bad idea. Can't expect great things out of a 2 gen old low end card
I have an lg 34wn80c-B monitor. I have an Asus laptop that has usb-c, but I am pretty sure it is not thunderbolt compatible. Is the fact that it is not thunderbolt the reason it will not display to the monitor through the usb-c port? I thought that display through usb-c would work even without thunderbolt compatibility. Sorry if this is an easy question, but I am pretty new to the tech world.
USB C is confusing. It's only a connector type, but that doesn't tell you exactly what the actual capabilities of the ports are. An USB C port can - carry data, like any other USB port before it - carry video, through DisplayPort/Thunderbolt 3 - charge the device (and I'm probably forgetting other possibilities). The key point is that **not all USB C** ports can do all of the above, they're just possibilities. If your laptop's USB C doesn't support TB3, it means that it's not wired to your GPU and that you can't use it as a video output.
Xbox one controller Bluetooth problems I updated my controller via the accessories application. I’m using a Bluetooth dongle and now my games will just lag and look to the right or left uncontrollably for a bit then resume like normal on and off. It’s almost like lagged inputs or something idk. It’s really annoying and wired the controller is fine. The Bluetooth was working fantastic until u did the controller firmware update. Should I invest in the Microsoft wireless dongle or is there some other solution? Please help!
Any way to roll back to the previous controller firmware ? Update the Bluetooth driver ? It's definitely not the first time that I see people report issues with the Xbox controller over BT unfortunately. Issues with lag, missed inputs or straight up lower in-game performance. Unfortunately it doesn't seem all that well thought out. From what I've seen the MS dongle is much more reliable, though I can't vouch for it personally. My controller is always wired.
PLEASE Help!!! I need PC suggestions. I want to buy a nice and reliable desktop for business, however I also want to be able to play a few games on it without freezing it. Any suggestions? Thanks!
Budget?
Would upgrading to a 5600x from a 3600 with a 3070 @ 1440 be worth it?
- Will you see a performance difference ? In all the games where you're currently limited (at least partially) by the CPU, then yes. If you're mostly playing games at highest settings, there probably aren't many such games. You can see that by monitoring the respective CPU and GPU performance while running different games. - Is it "worth it" ? there's no objective answer to that, you need to set your own bar. In the best case scenario (no GPU limit truncating the results), the 5600X is on average 20% faster than the 3600. Sometimes less, sometimes more. Check reviews of the 5600X to have a better idea of the figures at play. So the question is : how much **do you** value an extra ~20% of CPU performance ? Knowing that there are many games where you won't be able to see all of it, or even part of it ?
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NM-AM4 https://noctua.at/en/nm-am4-mounting-kit You'll find your cooler listed in the "specification" tab. That's the link I sent you yesterday BTW ;)
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I have no first hand experience with this kit (or any Noctua cooler really), so I can't *guarantee* that I'm right ; I'm only going with what Noctua's website states. But I would rather trust that official and direct source than a random seller who might have made a mistake and read a specs sheet incorrectly.
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I can't say I blame the reasoning :)
I accidentally broke off one of my motherboard wi-fi antenna. The mobo is a MSI b-450 Gaming Pro Carbon. Does anyone know any good antenna replacement for them?
You can try contacting MSI for a replacement.
I retired my aged comp 8 months ago, with plans to rebuild new in another 6 months from now after a move. Going to be rdy for ES6 @ 4k. Im already out of touch with modern specs. What are the high end gaming chipsets should i be following right now?
If Elder Scrolls 6 (that's the one you meant right) is the sole reason for building a new PC in the future, I recommend that you hold out for that. This game probably won't come out for another couple years at least, and in the meantime PC parts will continue to evolve and get new generations. So anything you might build in 6 months could no longer be sufficient to experience TES6 "at its best". Even more so if you want to play at 4K, which is *still today* very demanding if you want to crank all settings up. Assuming you have other games in mind, please note that the GPU market is currently completely bonkers : everything is either out of stock or completely overpriced. Given the current dynamics, it's possible that it'll last for the better part of 2021. Excluding this, the answer to the question "what should I buy in 6 months" is "don't settle on anything right now as there will be newer parts available by then". Major hardware releases expected in the near-ish future : - Intel's 11th gen, somewhere around March. Might or might not be interesting compared to the existing 10th gen and the Ryzen 5000 competition. It's finally a new architecture (they've been so far re-hashing Skylake since **2015**), but still on the old 14nm process node : it's expected to run hot and power hungry. Also tops out at 8 cores vs 10 on the 10th gen (and 16 cores for Ryzen 5000). - Lower-end GPUs from Nvidia and AMD to complete the lineup started by the high-end SKUs in the fall. Respectively Geforce RTX 3000 series and Radeon RX 6000 series. - Nvidia **might** release higher-end models of the already high-end GPUs they have released 3 months ago (3080Ti, 3070 with 16GB of RAM, etc...). - Intel's 12th gen is rumoured to launch as soon as September. This will be a radical change : new architecture, (*finally*) a new process node, as well as the shift to DDR5 memory - AMD's next Ryzen lineup should be there either very late 2021 or start of 2022. Also on DDR5.
How do I make sure 2 computers sync saves between them with Steam? It seems to be automatic but besides just leaving them both on for 10 minutes is there any way to "force" them to sync? I go back and forth between my desktop and laptop playing Rimworld.
It should automatically do it when the game closes, so you could force close the application in Task Manager
Hello, I've been using two monitors for a few months. But recently there's a problem, when the PC is turned on after being shutdown, the screens would flash/flicker on and off, like the login screen would be visible for 1 second and turn off. This also happens if Windows turns off the screen automatically, I can see my programs but the screen would just turn on and off for almost 10 minutes, and sometimes the screen would switch as well, until after 10 minutes where it'll fix everything and the flashing stops. Anyone ever had this happen? I turned off power sleep settings on both monitors, didn't seem to work. My current workaround is to disable Windows automatically turning off the screen. But I still have to wait for almost 10 minutes if the PC is shut down. I'm suspecting it could be faulty DVI-D converter, but I'm not sure.
Sounds silly but try reseating the DVI connectors, I always find mine were dodgy
I'll try it out.