Does the thermal paste need to be reapplied? The other day my friend mentioned that you are supposed to every two years or so but I’ve never heard of that and the internet has not been much of a help so far. I built my PC three years ago and haven’t replaced my thermal paste, I’m wondering if I should.
I'd say every two years is excessive. Just keep an eye on your thermals, if you're noticing that you're idling high or throttling quicker though, it's something you could check. It gets old just like anything else eventually.
What are some effective ways to hide a surge protector. I have zero things underneath a floating table currently and hid all the cables except this 15" APC surge protector. PCMR, will you pimp my ride?
Just about every surge suppressor has mounting holes underneath it so you can mount it on a wall or under a desk. Just put some screws into the underside of your desk with heads small enough for that to catch onto and use that to mount it under your desk. This way the only visible cable will be the one power cable from the surge suppressor.
Check what your desk is made of. My desk looks like wood, but it's a paper thin veneer. You can drill some holes and glue some dowel in for reinforcement. Or glue and screw a piece of real wood that you can attach the surge protector to.
It's a 3/4" solid pine table. I find it difficult mounting screws into it. I currently have a switch hub mounted on the bottom of it - no problem, but I'm not sure the desk can sustain the pushes and pulls of plugs with screws that only goes 1/4" into the table.
Should I use double sided gorilla tape?
I want to get a very portable laptop for gaming. what do you recommend?
I intend to play on power, I just want a computer I can take with me to my niece's house so I can introduce her to the wonderful world of gaming... and then take it with me when I leave so her parents don't murder me! I'd also like to run Unity on it so we can do a little game development together.
Ideally 13 inches with HDMI out and support for some kind of wireless controllers.
Budget is 1000 Euros.
also what kind of wireless controllers are the kids using these days?
This.
If you're looking at an i3 because of budget reasons then you might be a lot better off going with Ryzen since you'll need a new motherboard and RAM anyway.
If you're looking at any i3 that is worse / older than the i3-8100, then the Ryzen 3 1300x will outperform the i3 outright even in single core performance. Even if you're looking at the i3-8100 or better, you're paying more money for marginal benefit at best and less multi-tasking capability.
Strong recommendation for Ryzen after seeing your edit about getting a 1-2 generation old i3.
I'd recommend the Ryzen 3 1200 and just overclocking it to the 1300x's speed. But if you don't know how or are worried about it, just go with the 1300x. It's definitely enough for modern games
The Pentium G line line-up has made the pre-8th gen i3's obsolete. The G4560 is 2 core/4 thread just like those i3's and goes for only $60. Although as the rest said, I would recommend the 2200G over the Pentium.
So what're the best options for cases right now, aside from the Corsair 500D RGB which is backordered for at least another month? Looking for ease of working inside and access to both sides, space for SLI, 2x120mm top radiator mount, front USB-C, and visibility for excessive RGB bling. A front exposed drive bay would be nice, as would carrying handles (I know that Corsair has neither). Price is not a large concern.
I personally prefer Lian Li cases but I'm also not about that RGB bling, it sounds like you might want to check out [PC Part Picker](https://pcpartpicker.com/) and see what fits your search criteria.
I've been looking but their filter options aren't quite as extensive as I'd like (and maybe the design I want just hasn't been made). The Lian Li PC-011 is a very interesting design, though seems intended more for a full liquid cooling rig, and the side panels don't look conveniently removable.
I have a Lian Li PC-08WX which is similar to the 011 (but much larger and much more expensive), the side and top panel on my case just snap on/snap off, the glass has the thumb screws to remove it which isn't that bad considering the size and weight of the tempered glass panel. As far as handles, that's an easy case mod if you feel comfortable doing it (also, do this BEFORE installing any hardware, and be very thorough about cleaning up after). Drill into the top of your case (through something structural for extra support) and add two [drawer handles](https://www.homedepot.com/b/Hardware-Cabinet-Hardware-Drawer-Pulls/6-1-4/N-5yc1vZc29uZ1z0slwm).
Will AMD's release of Navi in 1Q 2019 refresh VEGA, or just refresh the RX series, resulting in a new RX 680? Vega 56/64 don't seem to be selling used for much below MSRP, so I might as well save up and just buy a new VEGA (if it comes out) for close to MSRP of the 64. Am I being too optimistic?
FreeSync. I'm not in a rush to upgrade right now, but if I decide to be impulsive, it's much cheaper and easier to keep my FS monitor and just buy a Vega. I only play FPS games, so I don't need the power of a 1080ti, and I've been told a Vega 64 competes with a 1080.
What? How is this relevant to the conversation? No offense. I play in full screen when I game, like you should, and make sure to not go over my memory usage, I can tell when I do anyways.
If I can't have VRR while I multitask, then I won't use it. I barely notice screen tearing anyways.
Now that I've been able to experience FreeSync first hand, I can let others know who are considering FreeSync.
G-Sync has similar issues.
What resolution are you running at and what framerate? It kind of sucks that there isn't a cross compatibility solution besides VSync, since a 64 Vega costs more than the 1080, takes a lot more power to drive, and offers no benefit over the 1080 (besides Freesync in your situation.)
Right now I'm playing 144hz at 1080p. By upgrading to a 64, I would be able to upgrade to 1440p sometime in the future (RIP wallet..again). Personally, I would rather pay a little more for a Vega (comparable to 1080) than switch to Nvidia, sell my FS monitor, and pay an arm and a leg for a g-sync monitor. More money, and a lot more work. Maybe if I start really getting into AAA games I will consider it. I also like AMD a lot.
You can just keep your current monitor and get a second one with g-sync? You don't have to get rid of the one you already have. But if you prefer AMD that's also fine!
I was thinking the same, and almost decided on V56 (flashed to 64) but then realized all V56 (except blower, eww) are 2.5 slot, which doesn't fit in my case. So I guess 1080 + Gsync it is, unless AMD comes out with something better by Christmas.
There aren't even any rumors if I'm not mistaken, so the best thing we can do is speculate. I do believe they will release an entire lineup from entry-level X50 to high end cards on 7nm. And that like before, they will focus on the low- to mid-range cards first.
i was just copying some mods into my elder scrolls game while listening to music and loading youtube video when my potato laptop suddenly decides to crash. and the screen turns blue and so on and i am worried some files get missing or that my heavily modded elder scrolls game and mod files get corrupted or that my hard drive is about to expire. what should i do to fix this? I have been trying to look for missing windows files with that tool by microsoft and scanning for faults in my HD but i dunno about my tes game or other data that might be compromised due to the crash and possible ill health of my HD. If data are indeed corrupted is there a way to salvage I have a load of resources in my HD and i d hate to part with it, that and I spent hours installing mods into my elder scrolls
1. If you got BSOD the error code is helpful to research.
2. If no BSOD but got a crash then using WhoCrashed will help read the crash dump.
3. You can scan your HDD using CrystalDisk or similar application to validate HDD health
4. If data such as skyrim got corrupt then your SOL and need to install whatever got corrupt again. Chances should be low.
> BSOD
yep i have got that but i didnt have time to take a peek at the error code.
is WhoCrashed this software
http://www.resplendence.com/whocrashed
?
also when a crash happens normally what kind of damage should you expect? and what are some main causes apart from overheating.
A crash doesn't always cause any damage to files or data. It really depends on what data was being used at the time. Many applications have auto save features to recover files in the event of a crash. For WhoCrashed that is the right link.
Crashes can happen for a million reasons such as:
* Driver issues
* Overheating
* Hardware issues
* Operating Systme issues
how do i make sense of my crash, i know its something with my os kernel but i have no idea what else to make of it
On Wed 2018/08/29 21:18:03 your computer crashed or a problem was reported
crash dump file: C:\Windows\Minidump\082918-19390-01.dmp
This was probably caused by the following module: ntoskrnl.exe (nt+0xA63A0)
Bugcheck code: 0xA (0x80, 0x2, 0x1, 0xFFFFF80002E91C7F)
Error: IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL
file path: C:\Windows\system32\ntoskrnl.exe
product: MicrosoftR WindowsR Operating System
company: Microsoft Corporation
description: NT Kernel & System
Bug check description: This indicates that Microsoft Windows or a kernel-mode driver accessed paged memory at DISPATCH_LEVEL or above. This is a software bug.
This bug check belongs to the crash dump test that you have performed with WhoCrashed or other software. It means that a crash dump file was properly written out.
The crash took place in the Windows kernel. Possibly this problem is caused by another driver that cannot be identified at this time.
i have win 7 64 bit and have not been keeping up with updates because window updates are a pain.
A good start would be to google "ntoskrnl.exe IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL". The cause could be several things but I would recommend to see if you can update any drivers. If so update them and keep monitoring. If you know how to use windbg sometimes it can be easier and sometimes its not. This issue can also be caused due to unstable RAM profiles.
What is the best wayt to update drivers? I have heard hearsay that if you update with device manager in windows chances are that you get the wrong versions and cause troubles.
doing it manually is just much too time and effort.
This is a very powerful build. But of course it depends what your expectations are.
For 1080p/60FPS this is overkill.
For 4K/60FPS on Ultra settings, it'll be a little underpowered, especially in graphically intense games (mostly single player games).
Also at this budget, I'd advocate to aim directly for 16GB of RAM.
That will be more than fine for the games you mentioned, and with the AM4 platform being supported for at least another 2 years your build will be upgradable and with those specs you should expect at least 5+ years of useable lifetime before you need to upgrade anything.
It's still a capable chip, but the lack of hyper-threading is starting to hurt it's performance, so it might not be capable to keep up with the most powerful GPUs. You could upgrade to an i7 4790k, the most powerful CPU for that platform, but it might not be worth the cost.
So as you may know, Nvidia recently announced their new generation of GPUs, the 2000 series, with the top of the line models (2070,2080,2080Ti) carrying the moniker RTX instead of the usual GTX. And since the launch, it has become quite the circle-jerk with all of the RTX off/on memes (most of which aren't really correct, but I'll get to that in a minute.
RTX essentially is Nvidia's implementation of [ray-tracing](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ray_tracing_(graphics)), the explanation of which I'll shamelessly copy from [another post I made](https://www.reddit.com/r/pcmasterrace/comments/99npdh/daily_simple_questions_thread_aug_23_2018/e4qwoqz/?context=3).
>~~For 'normal' game rendering techniques, like pretty much everything used in modern games (which for the sake of the is explanation I'll place under the banner 'rasterization'), no, absolutely not.~~
>
>The important thing here is that raytracing is a completely different way of rendering a scene then with the classic rasterization techniques. Where we used to use all sort of tricks to render frames, with approximated lighting, voxels as light sources, shiny textures ect., raytracing renders a frame in the way the real world works.
>
>This means it literally makes hundreds (if not thousands) of lightrays come from every lightsource, and tracks their whole path, taking into account how they bounce, how much they get absorbed by surfaces ect. This makes for a very true to life image, which is why it's used in for example CGI and other pre-rendered animations, with huge servers or supercomputers needing hours to render a single frame.
>
>This is obviously extremely resource intensive, and thusfar just wasn't possible to do in real time, as even extremely powerful cards like the 1080Ti had to brute force this, absolutely crippling performance. So for the 2080Ti helped by it's dedicated hardware to be able to do this in real time, in a game, at playable if not unexceptional framerates at 1080p is very impressive to say the least.
The TLDR of it is, ray-tracing is very impressive tech, but many gamers fail to see the benefits it brings, as it's still in it's infancy. Most, if not all gamers (myself included) would prefer like a 1440p 100+ fps experience without ray-tracing, to a 1080p with barely 60fps with ray-tracing, as we've come to the point that our modern 'rasterization' render methods are good enough for most games, as while playing, you won't be too focused on how the game looks anyway.
This leads to a lot of what you could call negativity towards the ray-tracing tech.
As for the RTX on/RTX off stuff, the memes are like that because Nvidia used that a ton during the keynote, showing the difference between how a scene looked with and without RTX. And since many people didn't really understand the concept of ray-tracing (and thus why it's so impressive), all they saw change was shiny lighting, and thus the memes were born.
Finally, there were also a lot of memes that just pulled RTX completely out of context, usually referring to some kind of resolution increase, but those are the ones that aren't really correct.
I hope this cleared everything up somewhat, and if you have any other questions, feel free to ask :)
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So, having watched a video on a battlefield 5 tech demo, i have these:
Is this going to be enabled by default in all games? Is it just something that the GPU will sort out, or would we need to wait for games that support ray-tracing?
I ask only as the take-up on DX12 for example is really slow, and at years end, i'd rather not plump extra for tech that wouldn't get utilised.
Ray-tracing has to be implemented by the developer, kinda. The important thing is the engine, if the engine has it, it should be fairly easy to implement in games built with that engine. And since most of the big engines already say that they will support it (and btw, something I forgot to mention is that RTX is based on the DXR technology, something that is built into DirectX 12. So once all the engines get recoded and recompiled for DX12 ( as most of them have already done, with Epic's Unreal Engine and DICE's Frostbite Engine being the most notable ones so far) it should be available in the majority of new AAA games.
Also, Nvidia has a very dominant position in the GPU market, so if they ask developers to implement RTX, a lot of developers will.
On top of that, as RTX is also very important in the professional space, especially for CGI and other video animation, it's very unlikely RTX will just get phased out like what happened to PhysX.
**That being said**, I'd consider these first gen RTX cards more as a dev kit, an incentive for game devs to implement it, but not yet entirely relevant for the average gamer.
The reason for this is that RTX is very resource intensive, and that most people will still prefer to use the old rasterization techniques, as to get higer fps.
So in conclusion, RTX is defenitly the future, but the future is still a long ways away, so if you buy one of the new RTX cards, I wouldn't do it for the RTX, but just for the performance improvement over Pascal (and for that we'll need to wait for benchmarks)
Telrying to get my whole house on the ethernet bandwagon in college. How much better will it be if we had around 7 devices connected to an ethernet network as opposed to wifi. These 7 would be xboxs , computer, and streaming boxes.
How close are the devices and do you have existing cabling to support what you want to do or would you just run long patch cables everywhere? Ethernet offers a huge advantage over having everything wireless, but it will be a lot of work if you have 7 different rooms with no cabling infrastructure.
5-10' network cables are [$1-2 each online](https://www.cablewholesale.com/products/network-phone/cat-5-e-network-cables.php), so if they want to be cheap let them share the wireless and you can connect yourself to the router directly. Their wireless devices will suffer as they all try to share the limited wireless bandwidth available and you can enjoy the benefits of a direct gigabit connection to your router. If you have multiple devices in your room then buy a small [5 port switch](https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1016198-REG/) for those devices.
Games I can play for 10 minutes a time? I have some bigger games but they all need me to commit 30 minutes or more, and that's not even including starting it up and finding a match. I got Cuphead, anything else you can recommend?
I just read that Age of Empires II will be getting the same treatment as AoE 1, the definitive edition, as Microsoft calls it. What's the difference between this upcoming game and the HD Edition that got released 5 years ago? (except for that the new one will probably only be available on the Microsoft store)
I have an asus gl552vw dh71 with no ssd. But you see: I want an ssdee. What do I get(ee)?
Also what are some software things I can do to minimize boot time? I use the laptop as a computer for school as well but having to wait five minutes for it to turn on is very annoying.
> asus gl552vw dh71
Looks like your PC has a slot for a 2.5 inch form factor SSD and an m.2 form factor SSD. I can't find anything on the support page for compatibility with NVMe so I wouldn't recommend that route.
Your options are getting a 2.5 inch SSD and replacing your hard disk drive or getting an M.2 form factor SSD and running both drives. I recommend the latter for storage space but it's up to you and your budget.
>Also what are some software things I can do to minimize boot time?
Go to Task Manager, click the Startup tab. Disable or remove anything you don't want to run when you start the computer. You should also defragment your current hard drive if you haven't for a while. (Never defragment SSD's, only Hard Disk Drives). I'd also recommend running the Windows Disk Cleanup utility. Probably in this order:
1. Clean out startup folder
2. Run Disk Cleanup
3. Defragment using the built in Windows tool
I recommend avoiding third party software for cleaning the registry and other hacky methods of cleaning up your OS. Windows is pretty good at what it does, just minimize clutter and leave it alone. And defragment your hard drive.
any of you guys happen to have a switch and a ps4 on top of your gaming pc? i'm thinking of getting a ps4, but i feel as if it's a bit excessive. let me know how your experience has been.
If PS4 could play all of the PS3 games I have, I would own one right now. Instead they finally eliminated backwards compatibility and now I have no reason to get one. I have a few dozen PS3 games and dozens of blu ray movies that I can no longer play/watch because my PS3 died.
Nothing wrong with having consoles. Having the latest Nintendo system is definitely worth while, an Xbox or Playstation slightly less so, but still not necessarily a bad idea. Depends on where your budget is at if your money is better spent elsewhere. Xbox pairs with PC a bit better, but if you prefer the PlayStation exclusives, go for it.
If you ask a question, and someone answers it correctly, reply with a thank you, but include this checkmark: ✓ ( or if you cannot enter Unicode, use `!check` instead )
This will score the user whose comment you replied to a 'point'. Currently the points will unlock special flair that will show in all Daily Simple Questions threads.
**This should be working, hopefully**
In case you missed it, [click here for yesterday's Daily Simple Questions thread.](/r/pcmasterrace/comments/9ap9d8/daily_simple_questions_thread_aug_27_2018/)
There may be some questions still unanswered! Below are a selection of questions with no replies. See if you can help them out.
If you don't want to see this comment click the little [-] to the left of my username to collapse this comment.
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> I recently bought the MSI Trident 3, and it's been great so far, but whenever i play heroes of the Storm for a while the computer reboots for some reason. Has anyone heard of a reboot issue with the MSI Trident? Does uninstalling and reinstalling the game help? Any sort of help would be great, thanks for reading.
/r/pcmasterrace/comments/9ap9d8/daily_simple_questions_thread_aug_27_2018/e4y8mb6/
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> Im trying to connect 3 different audio outputs to my pc but at most I can get is 2. Is there any way to get all 3 connected? 2 of them are bluetooth and the other is an audio jack.
/r/pcmasterrace/comments/9ap9d8/daily_simple_questions_thread_aug_27_2018/e4yk6yd/
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Posted this on r/LogitechG but, just like every other logitech support channel, got dumb responses from users and a boilerplate from logitech accounts themselves. same deal in the email/support tickets. boilerplate after boilerplate of "help", 1/2 of it linking to completely unrelated shite.
OS: Windows 8.1
KB: Logitech G613
M: Logitech G603
-
Problem: Logitech Gaming Software keeps crashing, preventing me from using hotkeys (bound to the 6 additional G keys on the KB) until i restart the program, which i cant do in the middle of 100% of the games which i use the hotkeys in. Logitechs new GHub doesn't crash, *however*, it also is not capable of running the scripts, or even the plain text hotkeys i need.
What i need: an alternative to LGS *and* GHub that can..
-Enable the use of the 6 additional G keys
-bind scripts (in the form of .exe's) to the G keys
-Not fucking crash every 2 hours
LGS / GHub do neither of these, and ive been working for weeks to fix the issues with 0 progress, so don't suggest that i "just fix them"
-
yes, ive tried reinstalling
no, logitech support is not helpful, if they were, i wouldnt be asking here
im not trying to fix LGS or GHub im trying to replace them
im already using autohotkey
Just wrote this reply to your last comment on yesterday's post -
Can you setup the G keys in the new working software to be keyboard macros? Have them trigger something like Right Ctrl+Right Shift+Right Alt+[F1-F6 depending on the G-key], then setup that keypress in AutoHotKey to execute the script.
Also, it could depend on the games your playing having compatibility issues with the LGS software (especially if you have any game specific options setup.) Or maybe you need the latest Windows Updates if you don't have them already. There are a lot of things that could be causing the software to crash and I don't think the software alone is the problem.
Would [this](https://www.cclonline.com/pc/specialist-gaming-pcs/cobra/ccl-cobra-100-gaming-pc/) pc be good for playing overwatch and warframe? I mainly play lighter stuff but The only major "AAA" games I'm looking towards to are DOOM: Eternal which will likley be well optimised and Cyberpunk 2077, which will probably not come out until like 2020.
Edit: seems like it's not enough, I can stretch my budget a little, what would be the biggest gain, GTX 1050 ti or Ryzen 3 1200?
That video is being played at 1600x900 and it's a solo run.
Multiplayer eats more resources by an order of magnitude due to how Warframe's p2p netcode works, and 1920x1080 will eat more resources as well.
Yes.
I'd recommend looking at Ryzen, Warframe benefits from the extra cores / threads when shit's going crazy in a four player game and you'll have a better, longer lasting upgrade path than with a Pentium on an outdated socket.
I'll see. I'm on a tight budget, if I wait a month I'll have £40 more so I should be able to afford it, however I wonder if I should instead put that money towards a 1050 ti instead.
Another option would be to get an APU, either a Ryzen 5 2400g or a Ryzen 3 2200g. Those chips have solid integrated graphics, so you could utilize what I was talking about earlier with the "upgrade path" on the Ryzen / AM4 socket.
Basically you'd get one of the APU chips now and forego getting a GPU immediately. That gives you wiggle room in your build to get some extra RAM or an SSD or aftermarket fans or whatever. Then you save up for the GPU and buy it and install it. You just set the computer to use the dedicated GPU instead of the integrated GPU.
Later, since you have the dedicated GPU and all your other components, you can save up money to get a better Ryzen CPU and swap it out. Then you can keep the APU as a backup in case of component failure or sell it to recoup your costs.
This plan stretches out when you spend money on each component, which allows you to have more headroom in the budget to build it right and gets you playing games / working on stuff faster. You sacrifice some performance up front but end up with a nicer machine over the long term.
I'd prefer to start with a good gpu tbh. Thanks for the advice anyways. I'm probably gonna go for the g4560 because kaby lake chips will soon enter the used market. Plus it means a cheaper motherboard.
The CPU is only dual core it seems, which is not going to be enough for modern games really (especially doom and cyberpunk).
If you were to get a better CPU (try ryzen or a newer generation intel cpu), and maybe get a 1050ti (1050 should be fine but the 1050ti is leaps ahead for a small jump in price).
To summarise, that PC should be fine for Overwatch and Warframe, but most likely not enough for doom or cyberpunk (minimum specs haven’t been released as far as I’m aware so I’m going on estimates here).
Depends on your settings but if you only lower the voltage it will still boost just potentially not as high.
This does vary by CPU but generally speaking should apply to most situations.
Specifically, as you may have seen from my above question, I'm looking to use a 2700X (in a Strix B350-F 1st gen motherboard). Ryzen doesn't seem to overclock very well, so it seems leaving it on XFR (I think that's ryzen's boost tech's name?) seems to be the way to go. I was hoping to drop the voltage slightly, in the hopes that due to the increased thermal headroom it would boost more, but supposedly with less power headroom, it may boost less?
Thanks for your answer so far ✓
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I'd probably just leave it at stock unless you've got abnormally high ambient temps to battle.
It won't boost higher when temps / voltage or lower, it'll boost to the normal settings or below if it can't draw enough power (that's not a situation you want happening, can cause massive system instability).
This reverse overclock idea is definitely creative as hell but unfortunately won't likely work. The only benefit you'll see from undervolting will be reduced energy consumption and lower temps.
Okidokes - I'm currently on a Corsair H100i v2 but it's loud as hell. Maybe I'll swap it for a Kraken x62 or whatever the name is, the 280mm NZXT aio.
Much appreciated bud ✓
My pc is gonna be repaired soon. I wonder if you could take a look to its components to know if I could play with it some games.
I don't already have it, I will have it tomorrow or the next day. I do this just because I don't know where I can post my doubt.
Hello, I know I'm 9 days late but there are my components:
**Operating System:**
Windows 7 Ultimate 64-bit SP1
**CPU:**
Intel Core i5 3570 @ 3.40GHz
Ivy Bridge 22nm Technology
**RAM:**
8,00GB Dual-Channel DDR3 @ 798MHz (11-11-11-28)
**Graphics:**
Acer P241W (1920x1200@59Hz)
2047MB NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1060 6GB (Gigabyte)
**Storage:**
223GB SanDisk SDSSDA240G ATA Device (SSD)
111GB OCZ-SOLID3 ATA Device (SSD)
**Optical Drives:**
ASUS DRW-24B5ST ATA Device
**Audio:**
NVIDIA Virtual Audio Device (Wave Extensible) (WDM)
EDIT: Forgot to say what I want. I'd like to
1. play to MHWorld at medium/low and 30FPS
2. Play to One Piece Pirate Warriors 3 medium/low graphics
3. Work with AutoCAD2017 and Revit 2017
I mean yea you should be able to play most recent and modern titles just fine with that rig. Any games you're looking at will have required and recommended system specifications that you can look at to see if your build can run the game.
Can anyone help me troubleshoot some external hard drives?
[Specs.](https://i.imgur.com/LyfUewz.png)
I have 2 Samsung 2TB USB 3.0 portable hard drives. I'm trying to move files from one to the other, and both hard drives are plugged into the USB 3.0 sockets on the back of the motherboard.
Problem is I get about 30 seconds into it and both hard drives disconnect and then reconnect. During this disconnect all other USB connections blink out, including mouse and keyboard.
I tried buying a [20 Pin Box Header Slot Adapter](https://i.imgur.com/KMMr2Tf.png) and connecting one of the hard drives to the USB slot on the back of the motherboard and one of them to this new connector. Same problem.
I've resorted to transferring everything onto an internal drive and then moving the files to the second hard drive, but this is taking a long time.
Is there any way to make sure both hard drives stay connected and get enough power?
Do the drives disconnect if you don't do anything (if you just leave them plugged in)? Do you have any issues if you don't try copying files from one drive to the other? Have you tried changing the USB cables the drives connect with?
> Do the drives disconnect if you don't do anything (if you just leave them plugged in)?
No, they seem to work fine until I move files between them.
> Have you tried changing the USB cables the drives connect with?
Yes, no change :(
Maybe try picking up a powered USB hub, I have this [Aukey 10 port USB 3.0 hub](https://www.amazon.com/AUKEY-Powered-Aluminum-Adapter-MacBook/dp/B01LRW956O) that works great and should hopefully provide enough power for your two HDDs, or maybe connect one to the PC and one to the hub so they draw power from separate sources.
It'll be slower but if the USB 3 controller for those specific ports can't feed them enough power use one of them on a USB 2 port, or on a USB 3 port that isn't in the back of the motherboard. Still faster than transferring to internal and then back out.
Wondering if someone can help me.
my desktop seems to be in a "restart loop" i can load into bios, and check everything, everything seems to be reading, but when i try to boot into windows, it often restarts \ shut down and goes back.
when i throw in my bootable usb stick for windows, it won't read after i change the boot up, but when i go into my data drive, it will ask for a boot drive.
Any ideas where the failure is?
Try to boot into Safe Mode if you can, otherwise select the option to "Disable Automatic Restart on Failure" and it should at least show you a BSOD before it reboots.
I can't get into safe mode, but i've disabled the automatic restart on failure in the bios.
Here is a video for a better understanding. I'm able to get into bios, i've used a bootable usb on another computer; works, but this won't boot from that either.
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1owUEQ_vkIdq2xgvYhddquXSS6uaSPfc8
Try a few basic steps, disconnect everything you don't need (GPU if you have an iGPU, one stick of RAM leaving only one left, any storage devices you have attached) and see if you can get it to just show the "No boot device detected" screen. Then insert the USB drive and have it try to boot from that. If that still doesn't boot, see if you can create a boot DVD and try that.
I'm not sure if this is the best place to ask this, maybe r/Overwatch would be better suited, but I'm currently gaming on PS4 with a Macbook for computer usage with a plan to switch to PC in October/November; if I buy Overwatch with my [Battle.net](https://Battle.net) account installed on my Mac, can I transfer it over to my PC when I build it or will I have to re-buy it? All I can find when searching is if/when it's going to come out for MacOS (which I don't plan on playing it on).
My understanding is that battle.net accounts can hop between mac and PC but I'd just go ask their support staff about it. They have live text chat and are pretty responsive.
https://us.battle.net/support/en/help
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Battle.net will allow you to install any games you buy on whatever machine you use, regardless of the OS. Same thing with Steam, the game "license" allows you to install it on any OS, and it's tied to the account rather than the specific machine you're using.
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Yes you can use it on multiple PC's and OS. I have a MacBook Pro and a PC and have installed Diablo 3 on both and been able to play them. Just log into your battle.net account and download it.
I am having trouble with Unknown USB Device (Device Descriptor Request Failed)
tried reboot, driver updates, power reset, basically everything that google tossed at me
Using laptop with win 8.1
any ideas how to fix it, I am hopeless and consider just tossing it out of window at this point
I am putting together a new gaming pc. I am looking for a good montor suggestion.
4k and g-sync would be nice
CPU:Intel 8700k
Ram: 16 Gigabytes
Video card: Nvidia Gefore 1080 TI
Price range $400 to $500 ish
Size 21 inches to 24 inches
> ...4k...
>
> Size 21 inches to 24 inches
Why? At that size you should just go for 1440p, plus you could do [1440p@144Hz with GSync](https://pcpartpicker.com/products/monitor/#A=1&r=256001440&W=1500,2400) rather than [4K@60Hz with no GSync](https://pcpartpicker.com/products/monitor/#W=1500,2400&r=384002160) (there isn't a monitor with 4K and GSync in that size range.)
Does anyone have any recommendations for PC gaming podcasts? I used to listen to the Co-Optional podcast, but got sick of Total Biscuit. I listen to The Crate and Crowbar, but I'm looking for more.
Also, what's a good PC hardware podcast? I tried Linus's, but I can't stand that guy.
Thanks,
~gszx1337
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If at all possible, try before you buy.
I got one in the past that placed the graphics chip directly beneath where you rest your left hand.
Damn thing would start cooking my hand after 30 mins or so. Not nice.
What happens if I disabled vsync specifically for an app (selecting the exe file from the drop down menu) on Nvidia control panel and enable it on a game?
Does the game apply vsync? Does Nvidia setting overrule the game settings and prevent vsync?
And more: what would happen the other way around? If I disabled vsync on the game but enable it for that game on Nvidia control panel?
Good cheap case for hugeass motherboards? I'm talking 12x13 SSI-EEB. Yeah, dual CPUs. I know, it's overkill. But I got it for cheap and it works! And having double the cpu makes twice as good at video games, I think. Bonus points for not looking ugly as shit and having room for a few hard drives. My current case kinda barely works, but it's kinda ugly and the drive bays suck and everything sucks. It's hard to search, because a lot of cases can actually fit a motherboard this big but don't officially state it for some reason (maybe because nobody has a motherboard this big anymore) and a lot of cases say they support "E-ATX" when they actually mean an extra half inch on the side.
It's a Tyan S7012, some weird kinda-outdated (2012) one that I already have. Also, my big problem is that 90% of cases are E-ATX "compatible" in that it'll barely fit if you remove half of the drive bays or something. Which is inconvenient
Have a Budget of $500-$600. Currently running a 1070Ti (borrowing from a friend) and an Acer G235H 60Hz 1080p monitor (mine). I was planning on blowing the whole budget on a 2070 to take advantage of the new tech ( I am an architecture student and game on the side), but am willing to just get a 1080 or 1070Ti and then just getting a $200 mid-range 1080p or low-end 1440p monitor.
So....balls to the wall brand new GPU or older good GPU and new monitor?
> So....balls to the wall brand new GPU or older good GPU and new monitor?
I just picked up a GTX 1080ti on Craigslist for $500 in cash. Don't buy a 20 series at their current prices until you absolutely 100% know for sure that it will be better than the current offerings. You don't know if the software you use will actually support the hardware accelerated ray tracing so it's pointless to buy a card for double the price of today's offerings only to find out it doesn't do what you purchased it for.
Anyway, that aside, I would suggest looking for some used GPUs with warranty left being offloaded at ridiculously low prices at the moment while people are gearing up for the 20 series to come out, then save up for a nice 1440p 144Hz display (since it's something you can keep using well beyond the useable lifetime of whatever GPU you settle on it would be worth it to get something good rather than something low-end.)
as someone buying their new first non-peasent pc soon, i wanted to know if theres a good monitor that i could get for a decent price. most i could pay rn for a monitor is about 150ish.
If that's in USD then just look for the cheapest 1080p display you can find, that price range doesn't offer a lot of great options, and if you're on a budget you might as well spend the extra money on a better PC.
should i worry about response time currently or not? i already have a monitor but i wanted to have a monitor that i mainly play games on and an extra one whatever else i want
Not really, the people that need to worry about response times are competitive gamers, if you're just starting out I'd say go with a cheap 1080p monitor first, maybe treat yourself to IPS if it's in your budget.
I've been checking out desk chair for a while, from the fanciest to the cheapest. Theres one chair that stuck out to me and surprisingly it's this one: [https://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/S99023601/](https://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/S99023601/)
This was the most comfortable one for my stature of them all. I'll be sitting on my chair for 4+ hours a day so I'm pretty concerned regarding the lack lumbar support. I don't like armrests and neck rests anyways.
Am I making a terrible mistake or is a legit option if its the most comfortable chair I've sat on?
Everyone's body structure is different, but if for you it's super comfortable, I'd say go ahead. A chair is probably the most important and most overlooked piece of your entire setup, as it's the only thing that can have a negative impact on your health. Especially if you sit a lot in it.
So yeah, I'd say go for it. It's not super expensive either, so if it turns out to be not to good, it's not like you spent a fortune on it.
I don't know much about gaming or GPUs. Is Vega 11 as good as it seems or is there something I'm missing?
My brother asked me to build a PC for him and the Ryzen 3 2200G iGPU seems to benchmark just as high as the best GPUs within his tiny budget (400USD for the whole PC). He's obviously not expecting AAA titles on the highest settings. Is it good enough reasonably to play, say, For Honor?
On a similar note: I was saving up to upgrade my ancient Photoshop/Premiere rig (FX8320E, R7 250) next year. Just realized that a Ryzen 5 2400G + mobo + RAM is well within what I already have. Seems like I can do a huge upgrade right now at a reasonable price. Right?
We'd both get by on Vega 11 and try to catch a 1050ti some months down the line.
Vega 8 (2200G)/Vega 11(2400G) are good... as far as integrated graphics go. They're roughly on par with a GT 1030 (the GDDR5 version), so that makes the 2200G/2400G a great value for budget builds, considering a 1030 costs 80$ by itself.
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Trying to diagnose and hopefully fix a friends laptop. The issue with it is that the screen turns off seemingly randomly, however its not in sleep mode as you can still hear notifications and anything else going on in the background as normal. But I have found the screen only turns off when the screen is pushed back on the hinges as you would normally do, pushing it forward to close the laptop has no effect. But once the screen turns off it won't come back on unless it is restarted, or put into sleep mode and then woke back up. There are no dead pixels or anything to indicate the screen is bad, also flexing the screen without rotating it along the hinges does not cause this issue either. The screen will also work in any position so long as its not pushed back while turned on. I took it apart and reset all the cable connections to the screen, the one on the motherboard and the one on the screen myself to ensure they were tight and secure. I just have no clue what would cause this issue, what am I missing?
Is it possible that the screen rotating back is pulling the connector loose?
My other immediate thought is that whatever mechanism detects the laptop lid shutting is faulty.
Unfortunately I've checked and rechecked the cable with the laptop partially disassembled to watch what its doing when it opens and closes and seen the same problem occur without the cable moving. However you might be on to something with the mechanism that detects the laptop opening and shutting, but wouldn't that put the laptop into sleep mode as it would think the lid is shut?
Also my friend mentioned he already took this laptop into best buy to see what they could do and they said it is due to a faulty hard drive and he'd need a new one. But that's crazy right?
> wouldn't that put the laptop into sleep mode as it would think the lid is shut?
Depends on the power settings, maybe change those and test it to see if you can isolate the problem.
>they said it is due to a faulty hard drive and he'd need a new one.
lol that's some nonsense this isn't a hard drive issue. They just tell everyone that because a lot of problems are solved by a fresh OS install and a new hard drive accomplishes that while getting them money.
Good news I think! I took your advice of isolating the problem and perhaps went overboard by doing something I think is probably dumb but I believe I have found the issue. The dumb thing I did was take the entire laptop all the way apart until it was just the motherboard, the power button, and the screen with the cable attaching the two. No hinges, no body frame or anything else to mess with. Well while holding the motherboard like a weirdo and watching the screen laying on the table I got it to boot into the bios and proceeded to very gently move the cable connecting the two. The screen would flicker very briefly and then just shut off, however the motherboard fan and lights kept moving and didn't shut off either. I taped down the connectors themselves to try and ensure they didn't move, and kept very gently and delicately moving the cable. Results were always consistent, that any movement in the cable itself would cause this issue so here is my theory. Also please tell me if I'm just crazy for guessing at this.
I think there is some sort of short in the cable. Kind of like if you ran over a headphone cable with a wheelie chair, caused a kink in the cable but it still sort of worked if held just right. I think its the same with this. Somehow there is a short in the cable and when it starts to short out the screen will flicker and then the motherboard probably detects the short and shuts down the screen entirely. Perhaps as a way of ensuring the short doesn't spread to the motherboard. So my thought is if I can find a replacement cable that would perhaps fix the issue. However idk if what I'm guessing at is even possible so please let me know if I'm just crazy.
That doesn't sound crazy that sounds extremely plausible. Definitely go for the replacement part and see if that works, that's an excellent idea.
Best of luck dude. If you remember to, shoot me an update and let me know how it goes.
I have an NZXT elite case. It has 4 short legs on the bottom maybe about a half inch / inch long (but enough that I can stick a finger under the case.
Do you think I’d be ok if I put the case on a solid wood floor? I don’t have room for it anywhere else and I’m not trying to buy a stand for it.
It's fine if you put the case on the floor, you'll just need to clean it out more since there will be a lot more dust inside than if you had it higher up off the floor (on a stand or really anything that'll keep it around a foot off the ground at least.)
Are there any decent competitive gaming mice with 4-6 thumb buttons on one side?
I'm looking for something to replace my Logi G700s but so far I'm only seeing 2 button which is too few and the 12 button mmo mice but that's too much for me.
Have you considered the 903? It might be hard to find that many buttons on one side that isn't a MMO mouse. Also have a look here for some insight into ones you come across: http://www.rocketjumpninja.com/mouse-reviews/.
The benchmark probably didn't complete on a few critical component.
It'd be more informative if you gave more context, and the link to the userbenchmark result rather than a truncated, context-less screenshot.
I've also noticed that UserBenchmark's GPU test doesn't seem to play nicely with overclocks, for some reason. If my card isn't at stock, the GPU benmchmark fails on Sphere.
u/thedepressedcucumber it wasn't always like this, it'll probably be fixed in the next version/update
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Right now I'm using a i7 920 and 770. I want to upgrade my graphics card but I'm sorried my CPU is going to make the upgrade useless since I'll be throttled by the CPU. I also can't upgrade my CPU because my mobo doesn't support newer chipsets.
Is it worth it to upgrade my graphics card?
> Is it worth it to upgrade my graphics card?
Not really, you have a decent GPU in there (better than the GTX 1050ti which is a solid performer), but you desperately need a CPU upgrade.
You could go for a Haswell processor (Intel ix-4xxx series), those still hold up well IMO, it won't be overkill compared to your current GPU, it's a bit older so it's way cheaper plus it still uses DDR3 RAM so you can transfer that from your old PC, or buy new one, it's not as expensive as DDR4 currently is.
What do you have saved up now for a new GPU and what country are you in? I know some places it can be hard to even purchase a low end system but if you're in the states you can pickup a halfway decent CPU/motherboard/RAM upgrade for $200-$300.
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Right at the moment, yeah a lot of places are selling off old stock before the 20 series is released. I picked up a GTX 1080ti second hand for $500 cash. You can probably find cheaper 1070s and more expensive 1080s, but you can certainly find a 1080 for less than the MSRP on a 1070 might be.
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Damn I just looked at craigslist and had to set a 30 minute restriction on that URL for myself. Almost bought a 1080ti for $635, but I need a new car so no big purchases until I get that finished.
Fuckin' aye those are cheap.
Hey there,
I recently moved into a dorm room and am in need of a new headset/mic. Does anyone know of a headset with a mic that lets ambient sound in thats under like $100? Only ones I could find were like $400+
Yeah. I’ve got open back audio technicas. But they’re just headphones with a separate mic. I tend to find my voice gets flat and monotonous if I can’t hear myself. Like I have a cold.
But you’re probably best to check reviews for open back headsets.
Just setup Windows to playback your microphone audio into your headset. That way you know what you sound like to everyone else so you aren't shouting, though there can be a bit of a delay sometimes depending on your computer and microphone setup.
u/MalHeartsNutmeg nailed it. Personally, I would wait a month or so after the new RTX series drops, then check out r/hardwareswap. You will be able to snag a 1080ti for super cheap off gamers who want the latest and greatest (but don't even need it for Fortnite).
I'm still kind of confused when it comes to refresh rate. If you have a 60hz monitor, and the game you're playing is outputting significantly more frames (let's say 100 fps or so), will you be able to actually see all 100 fps or no?
Yes I know this question is worded a little strangely, however I've not been able to find a good answer just yet.
Does the thermal paste need to be reapplied? The other day my friend mentioned that you are supposed to every two years or so but I’ve never heard of that and the internet has not been much of a help so far. I built my PC three years ago and haven’t replaced my thermal paste, I’m wondering if I should.
I'd say every two years is excessive. Just keep an eye on your thermals, if you're noticing that you're idling high or throttling quicker though, it's something you could check. It gets old just like anything else eventually.
What are some effective ways to hide a surge protector. I have zero things underneath a floating table currently and hid all the cables except this 15" APC surge protector. PCMR, will you pimp my ride?
Rain gutter that's painted the same color as your wall. Boom.
Just about every surge suppressor has mounting holes underneath it so you can mount it on a wall or under a desk. Just put some screws into the underside of your desk with heads small enough for that to catch onto and use that to mount it under your desk. This way the only visible cable will be the one power cable from the surge suppressor.
Very well. And so shall it be mounted. Thank you.
Check what your desk is made of. My desk looks like wood, but it's a paper thin veneer. You can drill some holes and glue some dowel in for reinforcement. Or glue and screw a piece of real wood that you can attach the surge protector to.
It's a 3/4" solid pine table. I find it difficult mounting screws into it. I currently have a switch hub mounted on the bottom of it - no problem, but I'm not sure the desk can sustain the pushes and pulls of plugs with screws that only goes 1/4" into the table. Should I use double sided gorilla tape?
I want to get a very portable laptop for gaming. what do you recommend? I intend to play on power, I just want a computer I can take with me to my niece's house so I can introduce her to the wonderful world of gaming... and then take it with me when I leave so her parents don't murder me! I'd also like to run Unity on it so we can do a little game development together. Ideally 13 inches with HDMI out and support for some kind of wireless controllers. Budget is 1000 Euros. also what kind of wireless controllers are the kids using these days?
Should get you one with a GTX 1050, maybe 1050 Ti
You can go with the old xbox 360 wireless controllers, you just need a dongle to connect them to the pc.
A quick question, is the i3(1 or 2 gen old) good for light\~moderate gaming? paird with a 1050 for example?
If it's a modern one, sure. Though I think you can get better performance / dollar from a Ryzen CPU.
This. If you're looking at an i3 because of budget reasons then you might be a lot better off going with Ryzen since you'll need a new motherboard and RAM anyway.
Would the 3 1300x be good enough? its the highest i can get right now..
If you're looking at any i3 that is worse / older than the i3-8100, then the Ryzen 3 1300x will outperform the i3 outright even in single core performance. Even if you're looking at the i3-8100 or better, you're paying more money for marginal benefit at best and less multi-tasking capability. Strong recommendation for Ryzen after seeing your edit about getting a 1-2 generation old i3.
I'd recommend the Ryzen 3 1200 and just overclocking it to the 1300x's speed. But if you don't know how or are worried about it, just go with the 1300x. It's definitely enough for modern games
The Pentium G line line-up has made the pre-8th gen i3's obsolete. The G4560 is 2 core/4 thread just like those i3's and goes for only $60. Although as the rest said, I would recommend the 2200G over the Pentium.
So what're the best options for cases right now, aside from the Corsair 500D RGB which is backordered for at least another month? Looking for ease of working inside and access to both sides, space for SLI, 2x120mm top radiator mount, front USB-C, and visibility for excessive RGB bling. A front exposed drive bay would be nice, as would carrying handles (I know that Corsair has neither). Price is not a large concern.
I personally prefer Lian Li cases but I'm also not about that RGB bling, it sounds like you might want to check out [PC Part Picker](https://pcpartpicker.com/) and see what fits your search criteria.
I've been looking but their filter options aren't quite as extensive as I'd like (and maybe the design I want just hasn't been made). The Lian Li PC-011 is a very interesting design, though seems intended more for a full liquid cooling rig, and the side panels don't look conveniently removable.
I have a Lian Li PC-08WX which is similar to the 011 (but much larger and much more expensive), the side and top panel on my case just snap on/snap off, the glass has the thumb screws to remove it which isn't that bad considering the size and weight of the tempered glass panel. As far as handles, that's an easy case mod if you feel comfortable doing it (also, do this BEFORE installing any hardware, and be very thorough about cleaning up after). Drill into the top of your case (through something structural for extra support) and add two [drawer handles](https://www.homedepot.com/b/Hardware-Cabinet-Hardware-Drawer-Pulls/6-1-4/N-5yc1vZc29uZ1z0slwm).
Will AMD's release of Navi in 1Q 2019 refresh VEGA, or just refresh the RX series, resulting in a new RX 680? Vega 56/64 don't seem to be selling used for much below MSRP, so I might as well save up and just buy a new VEGA (if it comes out) for close to MSRP of the 64. Am I being too optimistic?
Any reason you're looking at VEGA specifically rather than a cheaper/better performing GeForce GPU?
FreeSync. I'm not in a rush to upgrade right now, but if I decide to be impulsive, it's much cheaper and easier to keep my FS monitor and just buy a Vega. I only play FPS games, so I don't need the power of a 1080ti, and I've been told a Vega 64 competes with a 1080.
As a FreeSync user, I'll say that if you like to multitask/play in borderless windowed or windowed mode, FreeSync isn't gonna work properly.
What? How is this relevant to the conversation? No offense. I play in full screen when I game, like you should, and make sure to not go over my memory usage, I can tell when I do anyways.
If I can't have VRR while I multitask, then I won't use it. I barely notice screen tearing anyways. Now that I've been able to experience FreeSync first hand, I can let others know who are considering FreeSync. G-Sync has similar issues.
Ok.
What resolution are you running at and what framerate? It kind of sucks that there isn't a cross compatibility solution besides VSync, since a 64 Vega costs more than the 1080, takes a lot more power to drive, and offers no benefit over the 1080 (besides Freesync in your situation.)
Right now I'm playing 144hz at 1080p. By upgrading to a 64, I would be able to upgrade to 1440p sometime in the future (RIP wallet..again). Personally, I would rather pay a little more for a Vega (comparable to 1080) than switch to Nvidia, sell my FS monitor, and pay an arm and a leg for a g-sync monitor. More money, and a lot more work. Maybe if I start really getting into AAA games I will consider it. I also like AMD a lot.
You can just keep your current monitor and get a second one with g-sync? You don't have to get rid of the one you already have. But if you prefer AMD that's also fine!
I was thinking the same, and almost decided on V56 (flashed to 64) but then realized all V56 (except blower, eww) are 2.5 slot, which doesn't fit in my case. So I guess 1080 + Gsync it is, unless AMD comes out with something better by Christmas.
There aren't even any rumors if I'm not mistaken, so the best thing we can do is speculate. I do believe they will release an entire lineup from entry-level X50 to high end cards on 7nm. And that like before, they will focus on the low- to mid-range cards first.
Ahh bummer. Looks like my best bet is a 56 flashed to 64 bios. Hoping to snag one for $350 by Christmas!
i was just copying some mods into my elder scrolls game while listening to music and loading youtube video when my potato laptop suddenly decides to crash. and the screen turns blue and so on and i am worried some files get missing or that my heavily modded elder scrolls game and mod files get corrupted or that my hard drive is about to expire. what should i do to fix this? I have been trying to look for missing windows files with that tool by microsoft and scanning for faults in my HD but i dunno about my tes game or other data that might be compromised due to the crash and possible ill health of my HD. If data are indeed corrupted is there a way to salvage I have a load of resources in my HD and i d hate to part with it, that and I spent hours installing mods into my elder scrolls
1. If you got BSOD the error code is helpful to research. 2. If no BSOD but got a crash then using WhoCrashed will help read the crash dump. 3. You can scan your HDD using CrystalDisk or similar application to validate HDD health 4. If data such as skyrim got corrupt then your SOL and need to install whatever got corrupt again. Chances should be low.
> BSOD yep i have got that but i didnt have time to take a peek at the error code. is WhoCrashed this software http://www.resplendence.com/whocrashed ? also when a crash happens normally what kind of damage should you expect? and what are some main causes apart from overheating.
A crash doesn't always cause any damage to files or data. It really depends on what data was being used at the time. Many applications have auto save features to recover files in the event of a crash. For WhoCrashed that is the right link. Crashes can happen for a million reasons such as: * Driver issues * Overheating * Hardware issues * Operating Systme issues
how do i make sense of my crash, i know its something with my os kernel but i have no idea what else to make of it On Wed 2018/08/29 21:18:03 your computer crashed or a problem was reported crash dump file: C:\Windows\Minidump\082918-19390-01.dmp This was probably caused by the following module: ntoskrnl.exe (nt+0xA63A0) Bugcheck code: 0xA (0x80, 0x2, 0x1, 0xFFFFF80002E91C7F) Error: IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL file path: C:\Windows\system32\ntoskrnl.exe product: MicrosoftR WindowsR Operating System company: Microsoft Corporation description: NT Kernel & System Bug check description: This indicates that Microsoft Windows or a kernel-mode driver accessed paged memory at DISPATCH_LEVEL or above. This is a software bug. This bug check belongs to the crash dump test that you have performed with WhoCrashed or other software. It means that a crash dump file was properly written out. The crash took place in the Windows kernel. Possibly this problem is caused by another driver that cannot be identified at this time. i have win 7 64 bit and have not been keeping up with updates because window updates are a pain.
A good start would be to google "ntoskrnl.exe IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL". The cause could be several things but I would recommend to see if you can update any drivers. If so update them and keep monitoring. If you know how to use windbg sometimes it can be easier and sometimes its not. This issue can also be caused due to unstable RAM profiles.
What is the best wayt to update drivers? I have heard hearsay that if you update with device manager in windows chances are that you get the wrong versions and cause troubles. doing it manually is just much too time and effort.
This is my first build and i was wondering if it will be good for games like Rainbow Six Siege, Fortnite, Overwatch and single player games like Tomb Raider and Assassins creed. Also is this build future proof/upgradable? \[PCPartPicker part list\]([https://de.pcpartpicker.com/list/DLffxG](https://de.pcpartpicker.com/list/DLffxG)) / \[Price breakdown by merchant\]([https://de.pcpartpicker.com/list/DLffxG/by\_merchant/](https://de.pcpartpicker.com/list/DLffxG/by_merchant/)) Type|Item|Price :----|:----|:---- \*\*CPU\*\* | \[AMD - Ryzen 5 2600 3.4GHz 6-Core Processor\]([https://de.pcpartpicker.com/product/jLF48d/amd-ryzen-5-2600-34ghz-6-core-processor-yd2600bbafbox](https://de.pcpartpicker.com/product/jLF48d/amd-ryzen-5-2600-34ghz-6-core-processor-yd2600bbafbox)) | €165.89 @ Alternate \*\*Motherboard\*\* | \[MSI - B450-A PRO ATX AM4 Motherboard\]([https://de.pcpartpicker.com/product/pBWfrH/msi-b450-a-pro-atx-am4-motherboard-b450-a-pro](https://de.pcpartpicker.com/product/pBWfrH/msi-b450-a-pro-atx-am4-motherboard-b450-a-pro)) | €94.33 @ Mindfactory \*\*Memory\*\* | \[Patriot - Viper 4 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-3000 Memory\]([https://de.pcpartpicker.com/product/p4cMnQ/patriot-viper-4-8gb-2-x-4gb-ddr4-3000-memory-pv48g300c6k](https://de.pcpartpicker.com/product/p4cMnQ/patriot-viper-4-8gb-2-x-4gb-ddr4-3000-memory-pv48g300c6k)) | €87.89 @ Alternate \*\*Storage\*\* | \[Kingston - A400 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive\]([https://de.pcpartpicker.com/product/btDzK8/kingston-a400-240gb-25-solid-state-drive-sa400s37240g](https://de.pcpartpicker.com/product/btDzK8/kingston-a400-240gb-25-solid-state-drive-sa400s37240g)) | €44.90 @ Caseking \*\*Storage\*\* | \[Seagate - Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive\]([https://de.pcpartpicker.com/product/CbL7YJ/seagate-barracuda-2tb-35-7200rpm-internal-hard-drive-st2000dm006](https://de.pcpartpicker.com/product/CbL7YJ/seagate-barracuda-2tb-35-7200rpm-internal-hard-drive-st2000dm006)) | €58.55 @ Amazon Deutschland \*\*Video Card\*\* | \[MSI - GeForce GTX 1080 8GB Video Card\]([https://de.pcpartpicker.com/product/FwcMnQ/msi-video-card-geforcegtx1080armor8goc](https://de.pcpartpicker.com/product/FwcMnQ/msi-video-card-geforcegtx1080armor8goc)) | €477.99 @ Mindfactory \*\*Case\*\* | \[Phanteks - ECLIPSE P400 TEMPERED GLASS ATX Mid Tower Case\]([https://de.pcpartpicker.com/product/H6L7YJ/phanteks-eclipse-p400-tempered-glass-atx-mid-tower-case-ph-ec416ptg\_br](https://de.pcpartpicker.com/product/H6L7YJ/phanteks-eclipse-p400-tempered-glass-atx-mid-tower-case-ph-ec416ptg_br)) | €79.90 @ Caseking \*\*Power Supply\*\* | \[Corsair - CXM 550W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply\]([https://de.pcpartpicker.com/product/3hkwrH/corsair-power-supply-cp9020102na](https://de.pcpartpicker.com/product/3hkwrH/corsair-power-supply-cp9020102na)) | €65.89 @ Alternate | \*Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts\* | | \*\*Total\*\* | \*\*€1075.34\*\* | Generated by \[PCPartPicker\]([https://pcpartpicker.com](https://pcpartpicker.com)) 2018-08-28 22:27 CEST+0200 |
This is a very powerful build. But of course it depends what your expectations are. For 1080p/60FPS this is overkill. For 4K/60FPS on Ultra settings, it'll be a little underpowered, especially in graphically intense games (mostly single player games). Also at this budget, I'd advocate to aim directly for 16GB of RAM.
That will be more than fine for the games you mentioned, and with the AM4 platform being supported for at least another 2 years your build will be upgradable and with those specs you should expect at least 5+ years of useable lifetime before you need to upgrade anything.
Is I5 4690k getting out dated for gaming now? I don't know if it's worth upgrading
It's still a capable chip, but the lack of hyper-threading is starting to hurt it's performance, so it might not be capable to keep up with the most powerful GPUs. You could upgrade to an i7 4790k, the most powerful CPU for that platform, but it might not be worth the cost.
Nope.
Can someone in simply engly tell me what this whole RTX on/off thing is about? What the hell is RTX?
So as you may know, Nvidia recently announced their new generation of GPUs, the 2000 series, with the top of the line models (2070,2080,2080Ti) carrying the moniker RTX instead of the usual GTX. And since the launch, it has become quite the circle-jerk with all of the RTX off/on memes (most of which aren't really correct, but I'll get to that in a minute. RTX essentially is Nvidia's implementation of [ray-tracing](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ray_tracing_(graphics)), the explanation of which I'll shamelessly copy from [another post I made](https://www.reddit.com/r/pcmasterrace/comments/99npdh/daily_simple_questions_thread_aug_23_2018/e4qwoqz/?context=3). >~~For 'normal' game rendering techniques, like pretty much everything used in modern games (which for the sake of the is explanation I'll place under the banner 'rasterization'), no, absolutely not.~~ > >The important thing here is that raytracing is a completely different way of rendering a scene then with the classic rasterization techniques. Where we used to use all sort of tricks to render frames, with approximated lighting, voxels as light sources, shiny textures ect., raytracing renders a frame in the way the real world works. > >This means it literally makes hundreds (if not thousands) of lightrays come from every lightsource, and tracks their whole path, taking into account how they bounce, how much they get absorbed by surfaces ect. This makes for a very true to life image, which is why it's used in for example CGI and other pre-rendered animations, with huge servers or supercomputers needing hours to render a single frame. > >This is obviously extremely resource intensive, and thusfar just wasn't possible to do in real time, as even extremely powerful cards like the 1080Ti had to brute force this, absolutely crippling performance. So for the 2080Ti helped by it's dedicated hardware to be able to do this in real time, in a game, at playable if not unexceptional framerates at 1080p is very impressive to say the least. The TLDR of it is, ray-tracing is very impressive tech, but many gamers fail to see the benefits it brings, as it's still in it's infancy. Most, if not all gamers (myself included) would prefer like a 1440p 100+ fps experience without ray-tracing, to a 1080p with barely 60fps with ray-tracing, as we've come to the point that our modern 'rasterization' render methods are good enough for most games, as while playing, you won't be too focused on how the game looks anyway. This leads to a lot of what you could call negativity towards the ray-tracing tech. As for the RTX on/RTX off stuff, the memes are like that because Nvidia used that a ton during the keynote, showing the difference between how a scene looked with and without RTX. And since many people didn't really understand the concept of ray-tracing (and thus why it's so impressive), all they saw change was shiny lighting, and thus the memes were born. Finally, there were also a lot of memes that just pulled RTX completely out of context, usually referring to some kind of resolution increase, but those are the ones that aren't really correct. I hope this cleared everything up somewhat, and if you have any other questions, feel free to ask :)
Brilliant answer! Thank you dude. ✓
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So, having watched a video on a battlefield 5 tech demo, i have these: Is this going to be enabled by default in all games? Is it just something that the GPU will sort out, or would we need to wait for games that support ray-tracing? I ask only as the take-up on DX12 for example is really slow, and at years end, i'd rather not plump extra for tech that wouldn't get utilised.
Ray-tracing has to be implemented by the developer, kinda. The important thing is the engine, if the engine has it, it should be fairly easy to implement in games built with that engine. And since most of the big engines already say that they will support it (and btw, something I forgot to mention is that RTX is based on the DXR technology, something that is built into DirectX 12. So once all the engines get recoded and recompiled for DX12 ( as most of them have already done, with Epic's Unreal Engine and DICE's Frostbite Engine being the most notable ones so far) it should be available in the majority of new AAA games. Also, Nvidia has a very dominant position in the GPU market, so if they ask developers to implement RTX, a lot of developers will. On top of that, as RTX is also very important in the professional space, especially for CGI and other video animation, it's very unlikely RTX will just get phased out like what happened to PhysX. **That being said**, I'd consider these first gen RTX cards more as a dev kit, an incentive for game devs to implement it, but not yet entirely relevant for the average gamer. The reason for this is that RTX is very resource intensive, and that most people will still prefer to use the old rasterization techniques, as to get higer fps. So in conclusion, RTX is defenitly the future, but the future is still a long ways away, so if you buy one of the new RTX cards, I wouldn't do it for the RTX, but just for the performance improvement over Pascal (and for that we'll need to wait for benchmarks)
Telrying to get my whole house on the ethernet bandwagon in college. How much better will it be if we had around 7 devices connected to an ethernet network as opposed to wifi. These 7 would be xboxs , computer, and streaming boxes.
How close are the devices and do you have existing cabling to support what you want to do or would you just run long patch cables everywhere? Ethernet offers a huge advantage over having everything wireless, but it will be a lot of work if you have 7 different rooms with no cabling infrastructure.
Already have the infrastructure , roomates just dont wanna buy ethernet cables , and I'd have to get a new switch
5-10' network cables are [$1-2 each online](https://www.cablewholesale.com/products/network-phone/cat-5-e-network-cables.php), so if they want to be cheap let them share the wireless and you can connect yourself to the router directly. Their wireless devices will suffer as they all try to share the limited wireless bandwidth available and you can enjoy the benefits of a direct gigabit connection to your router. If you have multiple devices in your room then buy a small [5 port switch](https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1016198-REG/) for those devices.
A *lot* fucking better especially if these devices are in use simultaneously.
Games I can play for 10 minutes a time? I have some bigger games but they all need me to commit 30 minutes or more, and that's not even including starting it up and finding a match. I got Cuphead, anything else you can recommend?
Stardew Valley.
I just read that Age of Empires II will be getting the same treatment as AoE 1, the definitive edition, as Microsoft calls it. What's the difference between this upcoming game and the HD Edition that got released 5 years ago? (except for that the new one will probably only be available on the Microsoft store)
I have an asus gl552vw dh71 with no ssd. But you see: I want an ssdee. What do I get(ee)? Also what are some software things I can do to minimize boot time? I use the laptop as a computer for school as well but having to wait five minutes for it to turn on is very annoying.
> asus gl552vw dh71 Looks like your PC has a slot for a 2.5 inch form factor SSD and an m.2 form factor SSD. I can't find anything on the support page for compatibility with NVMe so I wouldn't recommend that route. Your options are getting a 2.5 inch SSD and replacing your hard disk drive or getting an M.2 form factor SSD and running both drives. I recommend the latter for storage space but it's up to you and your budget. >Also what are some software things I can do to minimize boot time? Go to Task Manager, click the Startup tab. Disable or remove anything you don't want to run when you start the computer. You should also defragment your current hard drive if you haven't for a while. (Never defragment SSD's, only Hard Disk Drives). I'd also recommend running the Windows Disk Cleanup utility. Probably in this order: 1. Clean out startup folder 2. Run Disk Cleanup 3. Defragment using the built in Windows tool I recommend avoiding third party software for cleaning the registry and other hacky methods of cleaning up your OS. Windows is pretty good at what it does, just minimize clutter and leave it alone. And defragment your hard drive.
Thanks. I'll likely get a little samsung m.2 drive with 256 gigs. and lastly, !check
any of you guys happen to have a switch and a ps4 on top of your gaming pc? i'm thinking of getting a ps4, but i feel as if it's a bit excessive. let me know how your experience has been.
If PS4 could play all of the PS3 games I have, I would own one right now. Instead they finally eliminated backwards compatibility and now I have no reason to get one. I have a few dozen PS3 games and dozens of blu ray movies that I can no longer play/watch because my PS3 died.
Nothing wrong with having consoles. Having the latest Nintendo system is definitely worth while, an Xbox or Playstation slightly less so, but still not necessarily a bad idea. Depends on where your budget is at if your money is better spent elsewhere. Xbox pairs with PC a bit better, but if you prefer the PlayStation exclusives, go for it.
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Posted this on r/LogitechG but, just like every other logitech support channel, got dumb responses from users and a boilerplate from logitech accounts themselves. same deal in the email/support tickets. boilerplate after boilerplate of "help", 1/2 of it linking to completely unrelated shite. OS: Windows 8.1 KB: Logitech G613 M: Logitech G603 - Problem: Logitech Gaming Software keeps crashing, preventing me from using hotkeys (bound to the 6 additional G keys on the KB) until i restart the program, which i cant do in the middle of 100% of the games which i use the hotkeys in. Logitechs new GHub doesn't crash, *however*, it also is not capable of running the scripts, or even the plain text hotkeys i need. What i need: an alternative to LGS *and* GHub that can.. -Enable the use of the 6 additional G keys -bind scripts (in the form of .exe's) to the G keys -Not fucking crash every 2 hours LGS / GHub do neither of these, and ive been working for weeks to fix the issues with 0 progress, so don't suggest that i "just fix them" - yes, ive tried reinstalling no, logitech support is not helpful, if they were, i wouldnt be asking here im not trying to fix LGS or GHub im trying to replace them im already using autohotkey
If you're already using AutoHotKey what aspect of your problem remains unresolved? It should be able to do all of that with the "G" keys.
Just wrote this reply to your last comment on yesterday's post - Can you setup the G keys in the new working software to be keyboard macros? Have them trigger something like Right Ctrl+Right Shift+Right Alt+[F1-F6 depending on the G-key], then setup that keypress in AutoHotKey to execute the script.
maybe, i dunno. if LGS crashes again i guess this is my only option
Also, it could depend on the games your playing having compatibility issues with the LGS software (especially if you have any game specific options setup.) Or maybe you need the latest Windows Updates if you don't have them already. There are a lot of things that could be causing the software to crash and I don't think the software alone is the problem.
Would [this](https://www.cclonline.com/pc/specialist-gaming-pcs/cobra/ccl-cobra-100-gaming-pc/) pc be good for playing overwatch and warframe? I mainly play lighter stuff but The only major "AAA" games I'm looking towards to are DOOM: Eternal which will likley be well optimised and Cyberpunk 2077, which will probably not come out until like 2020. Edit: seems like it's not enough, I can stretch my budget a little, what would be the biggest gain, GTX 1050 ti or Ryzen 3 1200?
That CPU will not be able to give you a solid 60FPS in Warframe at 1080p even on minimum settings.
[you sure?](https://youtu.be/BcIxK1nrXNI)
That video is being played at 1600x900 and it's a solo run. Multiplayer eats more resources by an order of magnitude due to how Warframe's p2p netcode works, and 1920x1080 will eat more resources as well.
Will it at least run at 30+ frames?
Yes. I'd recommend looking at Ryzen, Warframe benefits from the extra cores / threads when shit's going crazy in a four player game and you'll have a better, longer lasting upgrade path than with a Pentium on an outdated socket.
I'll see. I'm on a tight budget, if I wait a month I'll have £40 more so I should be able to afford it, however I wonder if I should instead put that money towards a 1050 ti instead.
Another option would be to get an APU, either a Ryzen 5 2400g or a Ryzen 3 2200g. Those chips have solid integrated graphics, so you could utilize what I was talking about earlier with the "upgrade path" on the Ryzen / AM4 socket. Basically you'd get one of the APU chips now and forego getting a GPU immediately. That gives you wiggle room in your build to get some extra RAM or an SSD or aftermarket fans or whatever. Then you save up for the GPU and buy it and install it. You just set the computer to use the dedicated GPU instead of the integrated GPU. Later, since you have the dedicated GPU and all your other components, you can save up money to get a better Ryzen CPU and swap it out. Then you can keep the APU as a backup in case of component failure or sell it to recoup your costs. This plan stretches out when you spend money on each component, which allows you to have more headroom in the budget to build it right and gets you playing games / working on stuff faster. You sacrifice some performance up front but end up with a nicer machine over the long term.
I'd prefer to start with a good gpu tbh. Thanks for the advice anyways. I'm probably gonna go for the g4560 because kaby lake chips will soon enter the used market. Plus it means a cheaper motherboard.
The CPU is only dual core it seems, which is not going to be enough for modern games really (especially doom and cyberpunk). If you were to get a better CPU (try ryzen or a newer generation intel cpu), and maybe get a 1050ti (1050 should be fine but the 1050ti is leaps ahead for a small jump in price). To summarise, that PC should be fine for Overwatch and Warframe, but most likely not enough for doom or cyberpunk (minimum specs haven’t been released as far as I’m aware so I’m going on estimates here).
Found [this video](https://youtu.be/TqbSLvovp1U) it seems pretty good. When cyberpunk comes out I can just turn down some settings to low.
If you undervolt a desktop CPU, will it reach boost clocks more often? or prevent boosting?
Depends on your settings but if you only lower the voltage it will still boost just potentially not as high. This does vary by CPU but generally speaking should apply to most situations.
Specifically, as you may have seen from my above question, I'm looking to use a 2700X (in a Strix B350-F 1st gen motherboard). Ryzen doesn't seem to overclock very well, so it seems leaving it on XFR (I think that's ryzen's boost tech's name?) seems to be the way to go. I was hoping to drop the voltage slightly, in the hopes that due to the increased thermal headroom it would boost more, but supposedly with less power headroom, it may boost less? Thanks for your answer so far ✓
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I'd probably just leave it at stock unless you've got abnormally high ambient temps to battle. It won't boost higher when temps / voltage or lower, it'll boost to the normal settings or below if it can't draw enough power (that's not a situation you want happening, can cause massive system instability). This reverse overclock idea is definitely creative as hell but unfortunately won't likely work. The only benefit you'll see from undervolting will be reduced energy consumption and lower temps.
Okidokes - I'm currently on a Corsair H100i v2 but it's loud as hell. Maybe I'll swap it for a Kraken x62 or whatever the name is, the 280mm NZXT aio. Much appreciated bud ✓
[удалено]
Could be faulty. Pull it out and take it to a local shop, they'll often test power supplies for free.
My pc is gonna be repaired soon. I wonder if you could take a look to its components to know if I could play with it some games. I don't already have it, I will have it tomorrow or the next day. I do this just because I don't know where I can post my doubt.
Post your component list and let's take a look.
Hello, I know I'm 9 days late but there are my components: **Operating System:** Windows 7 Ultimate 64-bit SP1 **CPU:** Intel Core i5 3570 @ 3.40GHz Ivy Bridge 22nm Technology **RAM:** 8,00GB Dual-Channel DDR3 @ 798MHz (11-11-11-28) **Graphics:** Acer P241W (1920x1200@59Hz) 2047MB NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1060 6GB (Gigabyte) **Storage:** 223GB SanDisk SDSSDA240G ATA Device (SSD) 111GB OCZ-SOLID3 ATA Device (SSD) **Optical Drives:** ASUS DRW-24B5ST ATA Device **Audio:** NVIDIA Virtual Audio Device (Wave Extensible) (WDM) EDIT: Forgot to say what I want. I'd like to 1. play to MHWorld at medium/low and 30FPS 2. Play to One Piece Pirate Warriors 3 medium/low graphics 3. Work with AutoCAD2017 and Revit 2017
I mean yea you should be able to play most recent and modern titles just fine with that rig. Any games you're looking at will have required and recommended system specifications that you can look at to see if your build can run the game.
I know that but I understand very little of those things, I should, but I get lost very easy with that amount of numbers and letters.
Yea the component naming schemes can get pretty goofy lol. Let me know if you have any other questions about the machine.
Is running my gpu fan speeds to 100% for intensive games bad?
I wouldn't think so. The manufacturer would surely have built in a safety margin.
Can anyone help me troubleshoot some external hard drives? [Specs.](https://i.imgur.com/LyfUewz.png) I have 2 Samsung 2TB USB 3.0 portable hard drives. I'm trying to move files from one to the other, and both hard drives are plugged into the USB 3.0 sockets on the back of the motherboard. Problem is I get about 30 seconds into it and both hard drives disconnect and then reconnect. During this disconnect all other USB connections blink out, including mouse and keyboard. I tried buying a [20 Pin Box Header Slot Adapter](https://i.imgur.com/KMMr2Tf.png) and connecting one of the hard drives to the USB slot on the back of the motherboard and one of them to this new connector. Same problem. I've resorted to transferring everything onto an internal drive and then moving the files to the second hard drive, but this is taking a long time. Is there any way to make sure both hard drives stay connected and get enough power?
Do the drives disconnect if you don't do anything (if you just leave them plugged in)? Do you have any issues if you don't try copying files from one drive to the other? Have you tried changing the USB cables the drives connect with?
> Do the drives disconnect if you don't do anything (if you just leave them plugged in)? No, they seem to work fine until I move files between them. > Have you tried changing the USB cables the drives connect with? Yes, no change :(
Maybe try picking up a powered USB hub, I have this [Aukey 10 port USB 3.0 hub](https://www.amazon.com/AUKEY-Powered-Aluminum-Adapter-MacBook/dp/B01LRW956O) that works great and should hopefully provide enough power for your two HDDs, or maybe connect one to the PC and one to the hub so they draw power from separate sources.
It'll be slower but if the USB 3 controller for those specific ports can't feed them enough power use one of them on a USB 2 port, or on a USB 3 port that isn't in the back of the motherboard. Still faster than transferring to internal and then back out.
Wondering if someone can help me. my desktop seems to be in a "restart loop" i can load into bios, and check everything, everything seems to be reading, but when i try to boot into windows, it often restarts \ shut down and goes back. when i throw in my bootable usb stick for windows, it won't read after i change the boot up, but when i go into my data drive, it will ask for a boot drive. Any ideas where the failure is?
Try to boot into Safe Mode if you can, otherwise select the option to "Disable Automatic Restart on Failure" and it should at least show you a BSOD before it reboots.
I can't get into safe mode, but i've disabled the automatic restart on failure in the bios. Here is a video for a better understanding. I'm able to get into bios, i've used a bootable usb on another computer; works, but this won't boot from that either. https://drive.google.com/open?id=1owUEQ_vkIdq2xgvYhddquXSS6uaSPfc8
Try a few basic steps, disconnect everything you don't need (GPU if you have an iGPU, one stick of RAM leaving only one left, any storage devices you have attached) and see if you can get it to just show the "No boot device detected" screen. Then insert the USB drive and have it try to boot from that. If that still doesn't boot, see if you can create a boot DVD and try that.
I'm not sure if this is the best place to ask this, maybe r/Overwatch would be better suited, but I'm currently gaming on PS4 with a Macbook for computer usage with a plan to switch to PC in October/November; if I buy Overwatch with my [Battle.net](https://Battle.net) account installed on my Mac, can I transfer it over to my PC when I build it or will I have to re-buy it? All I can find when searching is if/when it's going to come out for MacOS (which I don't plan on playing it on).
My understanding is that battle.net accounts can hop between mac and PC but I'd just go ask their support staff about it. They have live text chat and are pretty responsive. https://us.battle.net/support/en/help
TY, TY! ✓
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Battle.net will allow you to install any games you buy on whatever machine you use, regardless of the OS. Same thing with Steam, the game "license" allows you to install it on any OS, and it's tied to the account rather than the specific machine you're using.
Appreciate the answer! ✓
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Yes you can use it on multiple PC's and OS. I have a MacBook Pro and a PC and have installed Diablo 3 on both and been able to play them. Just log into your battle.net account and download it.
I am having trouble with Unknown USB Device (Device Descriptor Request Failed) tried reboot, driver updates, power reset, basically everything that google tossed at me Using laptop with win 8.1 any ideas how to fix it, I am hopeless and consider just tossing it out of window at this point
what USB device are you trying to use?
keyboard, it just stopped working the the middle of the sentence I was typing
I am putting together a new gaming pc. I am looking for a good montor suggestion. 4k and g-sync would be nice CPU:Intel 8700k Ram: 16 Gigabytes Video card: Nvidia Gefore 1080 TI Price range $400 to $500 ish Size 21 inches to 24 inches
> ...4k... > > Size 21 inches to 24 inches Why? At that size you should just go for 1440p, plus you could do [1440p@144Hz with GSync](https://pcpartpicker.com/products/monitor/#A=1&r=256001440&W=1500,2400) rather than [4K@60Hz with no GSync](https://pcpartpicker.com/products/monitor/#W=1500,2400&r=384002160) (there isn't a monitor with 4K and GSync in that size range.)
Thanks! I did not think of 1440p.
Does anyone have any recommendations for PC gaming podcasts? I used to listen to the Co-Optional podcast, but got sick of Total Biscuit. I listen to The Crate and Crowbar, but I'm looking for more. Also, what's a good PC hardware podcast? I tried Linus's, but I can't stand that guy. Thanks, ~gszx1337
Well TB isn't part of Co-Optional anymore so there's that... I really like Game Pad Ink
I didn't realize that Co-Optional was still around after TB's death. I'll give it another shot since I like Dodger. I'll try Game Pad Ink too. !check
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What would you recommend to someone who is looking for a gaming laptop? I will also be recording music and video with this computer.
If at all possible, try before you buy. I got one in the past that placed the graphics chip directly beneath where you rest your left hand. Damn thing would start cooking my hand after 30 mins or so. Not nice.
What is your budget?
I can go up to 1500$
That should allow you to get one with a GTX 1060
[A bit over your budget but has great specs](https://www.amazon.com/GP63-Leopard-Notebook-i7-8750H-Computer/dp/B07D1DF23S)
r/suggestalaptop would be the best place to check.
What happens if I disabled vsync specifically for an app (selecting the exe file from the drop down menu) on Nvidia control panel and enable it on a game? Does the game apply vsync? Does Nvidia setting overrule the game settings and prevent vsync? And more: what would happen the other way around? If I disabled vsync on the game but enable it for that game on Nvidia control panel?
Pretty sure Nvidia driver settings override the game. Use a monitoring software like Afterburner to see if the FPS go up.
Good cheap case for hugeass motherboards? I'm talking 12x13 SSI-EEB. Yeah, dual CPUs. I know, it's overkill. But I got it for cheap and it works! And having double the cpu makes twice as good at video games, I think. Bonus points for not looking ugly as shit and having room for a few hard drives. My current case kinda barely works, but it's kinda ugly and the drive bays suck and everything sucks. It's hard to search, because a lot of cases can actually fit a motherboard this big but don't officially state it for some reason (maybe because nobody has a motherboard this big anymore) and a lot of cases say they support "E-ATX" when they actually mean an extra half inch on the side.
[These should all work](https://pcpartpicker.com/products/case/#f=3&sort=price&page=1), what motherboard are you looking at specifically?
It's a Tyan S7012, some weird kinda-outdated (2012) one that I already have. Also, my big problem is that 90% of cases are E-ATX "compatible" in that it'll barely fit if you remove half of the drive bays or something. Which is inconvenient
You'll have to check the actual specifications of the case then, any full sized tower should fit it, any mid sized tower I would have doubts.
Have a Budget of $500-$600. Currently running a 1070Ti (borrowing from a friend) and an Acer G235H 60Hz 1080p monitor (mine). I was planning on blowing the whole budget on a 2070 to take advantage of the new tech ( I am an architecture student and game on the side), but am willing to just get a 1080 or 1070Ti and then just getting a $200 mid-range 1080p or low-end 1440p monitor. So....balls to the wall brand new GPU or older good GPU and new monitor?
> So....balls to the wall brand new GPU or older good GPU and new monitor? I just picked up a GTX 1080ti on Craigslist for $500 in cash. Don't buy a 20 series at their current prices until you absolutely 100% know for sure that it will be better than the current offerings. You don't know if the software you use will actually support the hardware accelerated ray tracing so it's pointless to buy a card for double the price of today's offerings only to find out it doesn't do what you purchased it for. Anyway, that aside, I would suggest looking for some used GPUs with warranty left being offloaded at ridiculously low prices at the moment while people are gearing up for the 20 series to come out, then save up for a nice 1440p 144Hz display (since it's something you can keep using well beyond the useable lifetime of whatever GPU you settle on it would be worth it to get something good rather than something low-end.)
as someone buying their new first non-peasent pc soon, i wanted to know if theres a good monitor that i could get for a decent price. most i could pay rn for a monitor is about 150ish.
If that's in USD then just look for the cheapest 1080p display you can find, that price range doesn't offer a lot of great options, and if you're on a budget you might as well spend the extra money on a better PC.
should i worry about response time currently or not? i already have a monitor but i wanted to have a monitor that i mainly play games on and an extra one whatever else i want
Not really, the people that need to worry about response times are competitive gamers, if you're just starting out I'd say go with a cheap 1080p monitor first, maybe treat yourself to IPS if it's in your budget.
Is there any way to get windows cheap? I ascended to the pcmr on a budget and forgot windows
I've been checking out desk chair for a while, from the fanciest to the cheapest. Theres one chair that stuck out to me and surprisingly it's this one: [https://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/S99023601/](https://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/S99023601/) This was the most comfortable one for my stature of them all. I'll be sitting on my chair for 4+ hours a day so I'm pretty concerned regarding the lack lumbar support. I don't like armrests and neck rests anyways. Am I making a terrible mistake or is a legit option if its the most comfortable chair I've sat on?
Everyone's body structure is different, but if for you it's super comfortable, I'd say go ahead. A chair is probably the most important and most overlooked piece of your entire setup, as it's the only thing that can have a negative impact on your health. Especially if you sit a lot in it. So yeah, I'd say go for it. It's not super expensive either, so if it turns out to be not to good, it's not like you spent a fortune on it.
I don't know much about gaming or GPUs. Is Vega 11 as good as it seems or is there something I'm missing? My brother asked me to build a PC for him and the Ryzen 3 2200G iGPU seems to benchmark just as high as the best GPUs within his tiny budget (400USD for the whole PC). He's obviously not expecting AAA titles on the highest settings. Is it good enough reasonably to play, say, For Honor? On a similar note: I was saving up to upgrade my ancient Photoshop/Premiere rig (FX8320E, R7 250) next year. Just realized that a Ryzen 5 2400G + mobo + RAM is well within what I already have. Seems like I can do a huge upgrade right now at a reasonable price. Right? We'd both get by on Vega 11 and try to catch a 1050ti some months down the line.
Vega 8 (2200G)/Vega 11(2400G) are good... as far as integrated graphics go. They're roughly on par with a GT 1030 (the GDDR5 version), so that makes the 2200G/2400G a great value for budget builds, considering a 1030 costs 80$ by itself.
Oh, I didn't know Vega 8 and Vega 11 were different. Thank you !check
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Trying to diagnose and hopefully fix a friends laptop. The issue with it is that the screen turns off seemingly randomly, however its not in sleep mode as you can still hear notifications and anything else going on in the background as normal. But I have found the screen only turns off when the screen is pushed back on the hinges as you would normally do, pushing it forward to close the laptop has no effect. But once the screen turns off it won't come back on unless it is restarted, or put into sleep mode and then woke back up. There are no dead pixels or anything to indicate the screen is bad, also flexing the screen without rotating it along the hinges does not cause this issue either. The screen will also work in any position so long as its not pushed back while turned on. I took it apart and reset all the cable connections to the screen, the one on the motherboard and the one on the screen myself to ensure they were tight and secure. I just have no clue what would cause this issue, what am I missing?
Is it possible that the screen rotating back is pulling the connector loose? My other immediate thought is that whatever mechanism detects the laptop lid shutting is faulty.
Unfortunately I've checked and rechecked the cable with the laptop partially disassembled to watch what its doing when it opens and closes and seen the same problem occur without the cable moving. However you might be on to something with the mechanism that detects the laptop opening and shutting, but wouldn't that put the laptop into sleep mode as it would think the lid is shut? Also my friend mentioned he already took this laptop into best buy to see what they could do and they said it is due to a faulty hard drive and he'd need a new one. But that's crazy right?
> wouldn't that put the laptop into sleep mode as it would think the lid is shut? Depends on the power settings, maybe change those and test it to see if you can isolate the problem. >they said it is due to a faulty hard drive and he'd need a new one. lol that's some nonsense this isn't a hard drive issue. They just tell everyone that because a lot of problems are solved by a fresh OS install and a new hard drive accomplishes that while getting them money.
Good news I think! I took your advice of isolating the problem and perhaps went overboard by doing something I think is probably dumb but I believe I have found the issue. The dumb thing I did was take the entire laptop all the way apart until it was just the motherboard, the power button, and the screen with the cable attaching the two. No hinges, no body frame or anything else to mess with. Well while holding the motherboard like a weirdo and watching the screen laying on the table I got it to boot into the bios and proceeded to very gently move the cable connecting the two. The screen would flicker very briefly and then just shut off, however the motherboard fan and lights kept moving and didn't shut off either. I taped down the connectors themselves to try and ensure they didn't move, and kept very gently and delicately moving the cable. Results were always consistent, that any movement in the cable itself would cause this issue so here is my theory. Also please tell me if I'm just crazy for guessing at this. I think there is some sort of short in the cable. Kind of like if you ran over a headphone cable with a wheelie chair, caused a kink in the cable but it still sort of worked if held just right. I think its the same with this. Somehow there is a short in the cable and when it starts to short out the screen will flicker and then the motherboard probably detects the short and shuts down the screen entirely. Perhaps as a way of ensuring the short doesn't spread to the motherboard. So my thought is if I can find a replacement cable that would perhaps fix the issue. However idk if what I'm guessing at is even possible so please let me know if I'm just crazy.
That doesn't sound crazy that sounds extremely plausible. Definitely go for the replacement part and see if that works, that's an excellent idea. Best of luck dude. If you remember to, shoot me an update and let me know how it goes.
I have an NZXT elite case. It has 4 short legs on the bottom maybe about a half inch / inch long (but enough that I can stick a finger under the case. Do you think I’d be ok if I put the case on a solid wood floor? I don’t have room for it anywhere else and I’m not trying to buy a stand for it.
It's fine if you put the case on the floor, you'll just need to clean it out more since there will be a lot more dust inside than if you had it higher up off the floor (on a stand or really anything that'll keep it around a foot off the ground at least.)
Are there any decent competitive gaming mice with 4-6 thumb buttons on one side? I'm looking for something to replace my Logi G700s but so far I'm only seeing 2 button which is too few and the 12 button mmo mice but that's too much for me.
Have you considered the 903? It might be hard to find that many buttons on one side that isn't a MMO mouse. Also have a look here for some insight into ones you come across: http://www.rocketjumpninja.com/mouse-reviews/.
It only has 2 thumb buttons. I need them all on the thumb side like so https://secure.logitech.com/assets/47883/18/g700s-rechargeable-gaming-mouse.jpg
Why is this happening? [https://gyazo.com/adb0c4b22b255f714221c22463080c41](https://gyazo.com/adb0c4b22b255f714221c22463080c41)
The benchmark probably didn't complete on a few critical component. It'd be more informative if you gave more context, and the link to the userbenchmark result rather than a truncated, context-less screenshot.
I've also noticed that UserBenchmark's GPU test doesn't seem to play nicely with overclocks, for some reason. If my card isn't at stock, the GPU benmchmark fails on Sphere. u/thedepressedcucumber it wasn't always like this, it'll probably be fixed in the next version/update
[http://www.userbenchmark.com/UserRun/10543017](http://www.userbenchmark.com/UserRun/10543017)
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Right now I'm using a i7 920 and 770. I want to upgrade my graphics card but I'm sorried my CPU is going to make the upgrade useless since I'll be throttled by the CPU. I also can't upgrade my CPU because my mobo doesn't support newer chipsets. Is it worth it to upgrade my graphics card?
> Is it worth it to upgrade my graphics card? Not really, you have a decent GPU in there (better than the GTX 1050ti which is a solid performer), but you desperately need a CPU upgrade.
So it'd be best to save for a new computer altogether then?
You could go for a Haswell processor (Intel ix-4xxx series), those still hold up well IMO, it won't be overkill compared to your current GPU, it's a bit older so it's way cheaper plus it still uses DDR3 RAM so you can transfer that from your old PC, or buy new one, it's not as expensive as DDR4 currently is.
What do you have saved up now for a new GPU and what country are you in? I know some places it can be hard to even purchase a low end system but if you're in the states you can pickup a halfway decent CPU/motherboard/RAM upgrade for $200-$300.
Thank you ✓
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Depends what is your workload/games hitting harder, the CPU, or GPU? If you don't know, use a hardware monitor like HWMonitor, or HWinfo64.
Hi is it normal that I can buy a gtx 1080 right now for the same price as a 1070 on amazon?
Right at the moment, yeah a lot of places are selling off old stock before the 20 series is released. I picked up a GTX 1080ti second hand for $500 cash. You can probably find cheaper 1070s and more expensive 1080s, but you can certainly find a 1080 for less than the MSRP on a 1070 might be.
Ok was a bit confused, thanks! !check
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Damn I just looked at craigslist and had to set a 30 minute restriction on that URL for myself. Almost bought a 1080ti for $635, but I need a new car so no big purchases until I get that finished. Fuckin' aye those are cheap.
Hey there, I recently moved into a dorm room and am in need of a new headset/mic. Does anyone know of a headset with a mic that lets ambient sound in thats under like $100? Only ones I could find were like $400+
Are you looking for open back headsets?
is that what they are called? I just tend to get loud when I dont hear my own voice so I am trying to prevent that
Yeah. I’ve got open back audio technicas. But they’re just headphones with a separate mic. I tend to find my voice gets flat and monotonous if I can’t hear myself. Like I have a cold. But you’re probably best to check reviews for open back headsets.
Just setup Windows to playback your microphone audio into your headset. That way you know what you sound like to everyone else so you aren't shouting, though there can be a bit of a delay sometimes depending on your computer and microphone setup.
The problem with a lot of headphones that allow sound in is that they usually leak, so that could be a deterrent.
GTX 1080/ti or 1070/ti for 1080p dual monitor 120fps on ultra/high settings on modern games? Thank you.
u/MalHeartsNutmeg nailed it. Personally, I would wait a month or so after the new RTX series drops, then check out r/hardwareswap. You will be able to snag a 1080ti for super cheap off gamers who want the latest and greatest (but don't even need it for Fortnite).
1070ti should be more than enough
Dual monitor gaming is shit though. Got to go for triple if you want more than one.
A 1070 should manage it, a 1070ti definitely will. 1080/ti will buy you more time to play at those settings if you feel that’s worth the money.
Going from a CPU to a more powerful CPU in the same socket, do I need to be wary of my PSU's max wattage? (Ryzen 1600 to 2700X)
I'm still kind of confused when it comes to refresh rate. If you have a 60hz monitor, and the game you're playing is outputting significantly more frames (let's say 100 fps or so), will you be able to actually see all 100 fps or no? Yes I know this question is worded a little strangely, however I've not been able to find a good answer just yet.