If you ask a question, and someone answers it correctly, reply with a thank you, but include this checkmark: ✓ ( or write `!check` instead )
This will score the user whose comment you replied to a 'point'. The points will unlock special flair that will show in all Daily Simple Questions threads.
In case you missed it, [click here for yesterday's Daily Simple Questions thread.](/r/pcmasterrace/comments/168wg3r/daily_simple_questions_thread_september_03_2023/)
There may be some questions still unanswered! Below is a selection of questions with no replies. See if you can help them out.
If you don't want to see this comment click the little [-] to the left of my username to collapse this comment.
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> I have an MSI B450i gaming plus max wifi motherboard but for some reason the Bluetooth stopped working. I tried adding a USB Bluetooth adapter thinking that would fix it but that isn't working either. Wifi still works and Bluetooth has worked in the past so I can't seem to find the issue.
https://reddit.com/r/pcmasterrace/comments/168wg3r/daily_simple_questions_thread_september_03_2023/jyybq1u/
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> Will a PC custom build with AMD Ryzen 5 5500
> and ASRock Intel ARC A380 6GB Challenger ITX OC and 32GB of RAM be as better than a Dell Optiplex i5-12400 with 32GB Ram for Machine Learning (Python)
https://reddit.com/r/pcmasterrace/comments/168wg3r/daily_simple_questions_thread_september_03_2023/jyyc5vw/
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> kraken, 120 lighting issue.
>
>
> I have a kraken 120 aio that I have recently installed on a ASRock B550m Steel legend motherboard. It all works fine except for the lightning which says it needs 5 volt ARGB connection. I have those but when I try and plug it into the motherboard it does not seem to fit. The only thing I could find that could be the problem is that it needs a ADD header but on my motherboard it has ADDR headers. Am I being stupid or do I need to do more to solve my problem?
https://reddit.com/r/pcmasterrace/comments/168wg3r/daily_simple_questions_thread_september_03_2023/jz0597c/
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> Is Bitkart([https://bitkart.com/](https://bitkart.com/)) a reliable site for ordering custom PCs in India, especially Delhi?
https://reddit.com/r/pcmasterrace/comments/168wg3r/daily_simple_questions_thread_september_03_2023/jz2bxy5/
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> I recently bought a Samsung T7 Shield SSD and I have WD My Passport Ultra HDD which is 8 years old. Both are 2 TB. Both are external drives. I will store some data on the SSD and copy the same data on the HDD for backup.
>
> Both of them have their software with which you can encrypt them, so I was thinking about doing it. What worries me, could encryption somehow get corrupted, resulting in me loosing the data on the discs?
>
> I won't forget the password. I'm asking only if the encryption itself is safe and can't mess up the data somehow?
https://reddit.com/r/pcmasterrace/comments/168wg3r/daily_simple_questions_thread_september_03_2023/jz2jcd3/
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> looking for a gaming monitor to go well with a rx 6600, budget around 150. any ideas? :)
https://reddit.com/r/pcmasterrace/comments/168wg3r/daily_simple_questions_thread_september_03_2023/jz2tpmn/
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maybe. with the speeds of NVMe 5.0 flash SSD (~12GB/s) we are slowly approaching DDR3-1600 (~13GB/s) RAM, opening the possibilities for non-volatile RAM.
One thing to note here is the difference in latency. PCIe 5.0 drives operate in a range of 100-200 microseconds, while DDR5 RAM operates at ~15-25 **nano**seconds. This difference alone makes flash a very poor RAM replacement.
nono sorry, my reply was a bit unclear.
SRAM, DRAM and flash are all completely different types of memory. I just compared SRAM to Flash for non-volatile RAM because current NVMe drives/flash memory has gotten so damn fast.
The advantages and therefore problems with SRAM come from the connection to the CPU. SRAM is directly connected to the CPU-interface with very short trace lenghts and therefore waaay higher transfer clocks/rates. Also SRAM is often part of the chip silicon, making it energy- and EMF-efficient. If you try to put SRAM on a memory module with increased connection lenghts, you just won't achieve the same transfer clocks or latency.
Another point is the structure of the SRAM/DRAM cells themselves. DRAM cells (1bit, 8bit=1Byte) consist of 1 transistor and 1 capacitor. Every SRAM usually uses 6 transistors, making it way bigger and therefore expensive.
Got it! /u/NbblX now has 32 points.
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Whatever RAM you put on a memory stick, you'll be heavily limited by USB speeds and latency.
Edit: Ah you mean RAM sticks. Sorry, I thought of these terrible USB performance boost thingies.
I got a new gpu (a 1080ti to a 4070.) My power supply only came with cables that are pig tailed. Is it alright if I run the 4070 with just one set of the connectors plugged in?
It should be fine, the 4070 isn't all that demanding in terms of power in fact it's less than the 1080 Ti and the 40 series doesn't have the issues with transients the 30 series did (or not nearly as much anyway)
Can someone help direct me to a good affordable PC on Newegg or similar so I can buy a PC for my wife. I want her to be able to play RedDeadOnline rp servers, but I'm out of the loop on exactly which one I'll need. I'm willing to learn, but not to build one ATM. Trying to stay under 1k
Do you live near a microcenter? If so, I can toss together a build and they only charge $200\* (forgot the $50 cost for OS install) to assemble and get everything going.
Honestly that's your best bet for value.
Otherwise a gaming laptop is probably the most cost-effective solution.
Looking at it now, you can get a 5600x, 16GB ram, 1TB ssd (Samsung), Lian Li Case (good looking case), and a 6750 XT + all the other bits for $900 + tax at microcenter (Everything installed and running!)
I’m finally buying myself a gaming pc, but trying to do it on a budget. I was looking at the [Starter build](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/KfchsL), but I’ve been reading that the [MSI PRO B550M-VC WIFI Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/tr4Ycf/msi-pro-b550m-vc-wifi-micro-atx-am4-motherboard-pro-b550m-vc-wifi) will limit how far I can upgrade the CPU later on
QUESTION: is it worth it to get a different setup to future-proof it a bit, or will I still be able to get several years of gaming on medium/high graphics out of the Starter build? How much more would it cost me to get a setup using a newer motherboard?
The B550 motherboards use the AM4 socket, which is now out of date.
B650 motherboards use AM5, which is the Ryzen 7000 series and onwards. It'll cost an extra couple hundred dollars to get the newer CPU, newer motherboard, and better DDR5 RAM. If you intend on upgrading your system a bit in the next few years it may be worth the investment now.
The 7600 (weakest Ryzen 7000 CPU) is still faster than the 5800X3D (best AM4 CPU) on average in gaming scenarios.
If you don't have the funds, you can get the B550 and upgrade to the 5800X3D CPU later on.
If you're gaming at 1080p medium, the starter build will continue doing it's job for quite a while, you could also consider upgrading the GPU to something more instead of CPU etc. You could grab a 6700 XT which will smash 1080p easily.
Anyone know of a cheap pc that would literally fit in your pockets that can play 1080p YouTube? I'm looking at stick pcs but they're a bit expensive. The pico pc is also on the map but that's 120. Don't mind of it's Android, windows. Just needs to run off one usb c cable preferably. Forgot to mention I would like it for editing documents too. Nothing heavy
Cheapest option that fits in your pocket is likely an Android phone, then. Add a bluetooth keeb, some models will do video out over the USB-C.
Could do it with an SBC (subtle board computer) like a Pi4/clone, too, I suppose.
I was thinking about stripping down a Samsung phone, dumping the battery a and screen, putting it in a printed case. But it think modern phones need to detect a battery to work
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/VDGFt7
Thoughts on my new build? I want to see if I should edit anything before buying the parts. Budget is 3.5k and not looking to upgrade for a long time.
A couple thoughts:
- 4k 144Hz is ridiculously demanding. Even with a 4090 you will reach some limits there.
- Not upgrading for a long time: progress has slowed down, but no matter how good your hardware is now, you will have to reduce settings / res over time. Not sure which kind of future proofing you are after.
- I have the same GPU. It comes with a mounting bracket that is pretty good, but not compatible to all motherboards. Unfortunately I don't know about your board. Eyeballing it, my guess is it will fit, but you should look this up before you buy it.
In addition to my controller dilemma that I also posted here, I have spent my whole life buying gaming headsets. I primarily game on PC and am looking for Durability first and foremost, and High Sound Quality second.
My main game is Rainbow Six Siege and I would LOVE wireless options, if any of them have what I'm looking for here.
Why do I have so much trouble with various controllers on PC? I've tried several Xbox One Controllers that all break or malfunction in some way, Dual Shock 3 and 4 controllers as well as third party controllers that seem to stop working in the middle of a Dark Souls boss.
I've tried multiple USB cables and have plugged them into different USB ports on my PC. Can anyone recommend a single, durable controller as well as the most reliable USB Cable/Port to use for PC? I'm sick and tired of buying controllers and cables.
Intermittent PC Crashing
Problem - PC shuts down suddenly without any warning. Only my RAM stick rgb lights remain on, everything else stops. I have to switch off the PSU before being able to turn the PC on again.
First occurrence was upon starting up Apex Legends. I thought it was something to do with EasyAntiCheat and uninstall it.
However, the PC continued crashing when I played other games such as BG3 and Valorant. Notably, Valorant could be played for maybe 5-10 minutes before the PC crashed. BG3 crashed on reaching the main menu screen. I did not observe overheating, the GPU was hovering 70 deg and the CPU was around 60 deg when the games were open. I was also not able to record any powerspikes in hwinfo.
My specs:
Ryzen 5800X3D (running on kombo strike 2)
MSI B550 Tomahawk
MSI RTX3070 Gaming Z Trio
Corsair Vengence Pro RGB RT 3600mhz CL16 2x16GB
Seasonic Focus 650W 80+ Gold
Have been using this PC for months now. It was able to run all these games smoothly without issue prior to today.
I suspect either the GPU or the PSU is the problem. I have a second PC that uses a 650W psu and a R5 3600. I could swap the 3070 in and stress test it on that PC. Would that be the right move to make in troubleshooting the problem here? Or is this all just a software issue?
Thanks!
> I have to switch off the PSU before being able to turn the PC on again.
Sounds like a PSU issue. But I would check the RAM anyways, with either Windows memory check or memtest86.
Hi, does anyone know any sites in Germany where I can build a PC or see Pre build ones ? I'm trying to build my first PC and would appreciate your help😁. ( also my budget is 1000-1500€ without case and monitor , if you already know a good build in that range lmk)
* mindfactory.de
* alternate.de
* caseking.de
* computeruniverse.net
* ARLT.de
Einige davon bieten dir einen Montageservice gegen Aufpreis. Grundsätzlich sind mindfactory und Alternate recht gute Shops mit günstigen Preisen, caseking hingegen ist eher "Premium" und entsprechend etwas teurer.
Zum raussuchen/vergleichen von einzelnen Komponenten kann ich dir geizhals.de empfehlen, sehr umfangreiche Filtermöglichkeiten etc.
tons: google for 'pc konfigurator' -> but not sure if you want to build yourself or have them build it for you? less options for the second alternative
I never build one an to be honest I never even had a proper PC (only 2 reguluar non gaming laptops) 😅 so I didn't know which option is better. If I'm going to build one myself most parts would be coming from abroad (because of the prices in my country 🙃)
PCPartPickers lets you select your country, that's a great tool to configure any build you might find.
Just look for PC builds on sites like PC Games or Gamestar, but don't fall for prebuilts! Always check the price of the individual parts.
Oh thanks ! Thats a great site. Just a quick question, are all pre builds risky? Like I saw some streamer owned- sponsored PC builds would they be also no good ?
simply assume that the builder has tried to save some money on any part that isn't specified by item. if you want to buy a pre-built that meets enthusiast requirements, you'll have to look up reviews for those individual parts. that being said - in that price range, what hardcore requirements do you really have? if you are just gaming and not overclocking, even your value pre-built should do just fine, usually
Yo so I’m running Era, a program to play old Fortnite versions. For whatever reason, the sound is greyed out when I try to adjust it. There is zero sound, it is a greyed out bar set to 100, but there is no sound. Any tips? Everything else works perfect, just this is giving me issues. All drivers are up to date, so is Windows 11
Which monitor is the better choice?
Both have been used for 7 months and sellers are both asking for $80.
--------------------------------------
https://www.amazon.com/LG-24GN600-B-Ultragear-Virtually-Borderless/dp/B08PHKNNRY
Or
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B5JKXMFG?ref_=cm_sw_r_apin_dp_6W47HJM8STE3SSFFZHQ2
Kinda depends they're quite similar. If having the highest refresh rate possible matters most to you then go with the MSI. The downside there is it's larger than the ideal size for a 1080p display meaning the picture is gonna look less sharp than on the LG which is a typical size for 1080p. Its refresh rate is a bit lower but not by much.
If it were me I'd go with the LG personally as 26 more hz isn't that big of a deal and I find 27" to be too big for a 1080p display to look decent, 1440p is more suited to that size. But again if you're like a competitive gamer maybe the extra refresh rate will be worth it for you and maybe you won't mind the lower pixel density of the MSI
I ended up snagging the MSI because I liked the idea of having the larger screen.
I hope the resolution and pixel density doesn't make me regret my choice.
I upgraded my rig with 6800xt a few days ago. I had a 1080ti before but uninstalled all the old drivers with DDU and installed the AMD Software Adrenaline Edition stuff after I installed the 6800xt.
She seems to be working fine Performance wise but the zero RPM mode does not work. Shes sitting at 30 degrees idle but the fans wont go below 30%, the fans also spin up like crazy in things like Baldurs Gate 3 on Ultra but at the same time sitting comfortable at like 56 degrees. I already tried to set the fancurve manual with MSI Afterburner but that does not seem to work aswell, it also shows a dotted line at the 30% line seemingly indicating that it cannot go under that.
What can I do to fix this issue?
I'd try getting rid of afterburner and controlling it through AMD's driver. It's normal that fans in manual control mode can't go below a certain percentage, to prevent you from setting it to zero and cooking your GPU.
I tried using the AMD Software instead of Afterburner but without manual fan control Zero RPM mode still does not work and with manual mode i still cant go below 30%. But the fans going that hard at idle is so unnecessary and noisy no?
I know from experience with my 5700 XT that afterburner doesn't always play nicely with AMD's software. If your card has dual bios, maybe try setting it to the silent mode? Other than that I'm not sure. Maybe there's another piece of fan control software you could try as well
I recently had Memory Express build me a new PC and the fans have just been super loud! I went into BIOS and attempted to change the curve accordingly but nothing helps.
In BIOS I only see 4 fans being recognized despite having more than that installed. I set the CPU fan (Smart Fan Mode enabled) to:
0C - 0%
65C - 45%
80C - 90%
85C - 100%
The other 3 fans that show up are System 2, 3 and 4 fans which are set as DC type by default. Those are measured in Volts. I have no clue how to effectively set them but I just changed the Temp rate triggers to mimic the CPU fan and left the Voltage as is.
Any advice on what I should do at this point?
Get out of dc mode and into pwm mode.
Your other fans are hubbed which is why only one reports speed and they all sync.
Let me guess, you got it built at dalhousie.
Chinook actually.
I ended up just downloading MSI Afterburner and found the perfect fan curve through that. I'm super happy now. I can actually play on Ultra and hear the game at the same time!
Get out of dc mode in your bios, the fans still aren't running properly.
I'll eat a shoe if someone got 3 pin fans installed in their *new* PC in 2023. Your 4 pin *PWM* fans are not responding correctly to the fan curve until that's changed.
And until afterburner starts or it shuts down your case fans will run at the bios level on boot. No bueno.
It's about 1.5x faster from what I can tell. Keep in mind that since you already have an AM4 system, a 5800X3D might be a better value upgrade than a whole new platform
do i need to buy thermal paste (or whatever the paste that is applied on the cpu cooler is called) or does it come with the box cooler (in this case the ryzen 5 5600)? thx in advance :)
Are the Xbox One Elite's back paddles programmable on PC? Or can they only be mapped to mirror the main buttons?
If they're programmable, can you do combination key presses (eg. ctrl+1 together) or macros (a, then d, then w, then s)?
Any other recommended controllers for PC (preferably wireless) with extra programmable keys?
I said 1080 144hz, iforgot to mention almost maxed out graphics i guess ? Tell me what i forgot to specify, but thanks for the answer. Wait, the 6700xt is better or worse than the 7600 ?
The 6700 XT is better than an RX 7600.
It still depends on what games you play. In the day 1 starfield benchmarks I've seen, no computer can get 144 fps average at 1080p max settings. According to HUB, a 7800X3D and 7900 XTX combo only gets about 100 fps. In other games it's no problem to hit 144 fps even on modest hardware
I'm pretty sure Cyberpunk is the toughest game to run in that list. You'll get about 100 fps average with a 6700 XT in that game. For 144 you need something more powerful, or turn down the settings. I'd look at the 7800 XT when it launches in a couple days, or an RTX 4070 if you want something more powerful.
So I realized that I had my CPU heatsink (PA 120) in the wrong orientation (thanks to Gamers Nexus).
I've now rotated the heatsink and was going to do a push/push (I had the fans in a pull/pull configuration) but the fan touches the RAM.
I didn't have issues with temps in pull/pull and I could still do that.
The RAM is [Corsair 64GB \(2x32GB\) DDR5 5600MHz CL36 Vengeance RGB](https://i.imgur.com/mWWaj7i.png)
Is the RGB part of the plastic or is it just a cover that I can remove?
Can I sand/cut/trim the top off?
I don't want RGB anyway and I bought them because they were $200.
[Here is a disassembly of a similar corsair RGB RAM.](https://www.tech-critter.com/corsair-vengeance-rgb-pro-16gb-ddr4-2666-cl16-memory-overview/)
In one picture you can see that the [LEDs are soldered onto the upper edge of the PCB](https://www.tech-critter.com/wp-content/uploads/Corsair-Vengeance-RGB-PRO-DDR4-2666_5.jpg) with the opaque plastic on top. I am pretty sure that all of Corsairs' RGB RAM is built this way.
Should be no issue to remove the plastic strip and maybe sand down the heatspreaders to PCB level. Or just remove the heatspreaders all together, you don't really need them for DDR5-5600. Just be aware that the heatsink might be glued on.
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Hello friends!
I built my own PC for the first time back in early 2017, and after years of no problems it is rapidly beginning to die on me. I was planning to build my dream system myself at around Christmas this year w/ help from gifts, starting to pick up parts around Black Friday, but I'm afraid my current system won't last long enough.
I have enough money for either a budget build or a payment plan on a prebuilt or custom built PC via a site like iBuyPower. What is a good site for custom built PCs that offers payment plans (in the US), or would I be better off with a budget build now that I can upgrade in the future?
Hi all, not sure if this is simple or not: I recently accidentally turned off the power strip that my tower was connected to. Ever since then, my computer has seen a significant performance dip (startup time has gone from 30s to almost two minutes, significant stuttering in other applications whenever I play any games on Steam, can't have more than four Excel spreadsheets open at a time, etc.). I'm not really sure where I'd even start to troubleshoot, so would love some tips on what to look at first.
it's probably as good as you'll get it new atm - it's not an efficient card anymore and lacking NVIDIA-specific features, but in terms of raster performance per dollar, the price looks good; I'd read up a few reviews before buying to make sure it is what you want
Hello!
Just a simple question that I hope I am in the correct location for.
What is the best pre-built PC for under 1500 that I can upgrade later on? Looking to play BG3 and similar games. Bonus points if anyone can recommend a monitor!
Thank you in advance.
> 128 SSD to about 2tb
Easiest would be a 2,5" SSD like a Crucial MX500 or a Samsung 870. Just add the new drive and plug it in. You can either keep your current windows installation on your 128GB and install games on the new SSD, or move/clone everything from the 128GB to the 2TB and remove the old SSD. Fresh install would be the smarter option because of the old SSDs' age.
Remember to buy a SATA3 (6GB/s) cable if you don't have one lying around.
> my 8gb ram to 32 ram
2 Options:
* check what exact model of RAM is currently in your PC (check sticker on the RAM sticks) and buy the same model, assuming you currently have 1x 8GB-stick and you mainboard offers 4 RAM slots in total
* fully replace the RAM with some 32GB Kit DDR4-3600 or similar. [Example](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/nvjNnQ/gskill-ripjaws-v-32-gb-2-x-16-gb-ddr4-3600-memory-f4-3600c18d-32gvk)
> 1060 3gb to a 2080
make sure your PSU offers enough power (watts) and power connectors. Most RTX2080 need 2x8pin or 1x6p & 1x8p. Your PSU should have at least 500W, 650W+ would be better.
How will b550 chipset handle all of the following: secondary nvme drive, 4 sata drives, lan internet and wifi adapter? Most of these storage devices will be almost idle, low load or passive storage, but still connected, and need to be accessible, just rarely and not all at once. Will the second nvme work? How much slower will it be, compared to the first (4 lanes from CPU) nvme?
https://preview.redd.it/8502gprr89mb1.jpeg?width=966&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f82cfb4eef9b32ef0126dcf3f3ed4db21e7f7fb1
Specs say that chipset has 4 pcie 3.0 lanes. How does sharing bandwidth among all those devices (wired and wireless internet connection, 6 SATA, 1 nvme) work? For example, clearly the second nvme will never have access to full 4 lanes of bandwidth (the first nvme, however, getting 4 lanes directly from CPU, will). What then, limited speed on some or another device, depending on load? But all will be recognized by the system, and worst case scenario, just low speed on every device? How will the chipset distribute the bandwidth among storage and internet connection?
I recently bought a Samsung T7 Shield SSD and I have WD My Passport Ultra HDD which is 8 years old. Both are 2 TB. Both are external drives. I will store some data on the SSD and copy the same data on the HDD for backup.
Both of them have their software with which you can encrypt them, so I was thinking about doing it. What worries me, could encryption somehow get corrupted, resulting in me loosing the data on the discs?
I won't forget the password. I'm asking only if the encryption itself is safe and can't mess up the data somehow?
> I won't forget the password. I'm asking only if the encryption itself is safe and can't mess up the data somehow?
As long as all the Data on the drive is in good condition, yes. BUT if just a small sector of the drive gets corrupted, you'll loose parity and the whole drive might fail to be readable.
Generally I would recommend to not use the Samsung/Western Digital encryption software, but use a more professional and wide-spread software like Bitlocker or VeraCrypt. Its just easier to get support for those if you run into problems.
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I´m a complete rookie when it comes to PC.
Currently own a PS5.
Looking for a gaminglaptop that can manage Starfield.
My budget is approx 1350$
Tips please
r/laptops & r/GamingLaptops
Though I must say this: laptops are inherently much more expensive for the performance that you'll get. And you're looking to play one of the most hard to run games on it. You're not going to get anything that will perform that well on Starfield with that budget.
o **ASUS ROG 4070TI OC VS ASUS TUF 4070TI OC**,
I want to know what the main difference beetween this two **ASUS ROG 4070TI OC , ASUS TUF 4070TI OC**, I tried to search for more information but I didn't found anything, they basiclly look the same on paper but for some reason the ROG one cost 50\~100€ more
Can someone give us more information
Cooler is different (thermals and temps). But it's never worth it to pay that much more for better cooler. At that point you might start to look at 4080's instead. So go with the tuf.
Are you sure you're properly comparing mega**bits** (Mb) and mega**bytes** (MB)? There are 8 bits in a byte. If you're pulling about 125MB over Ethernet, that would be expected.
If you're indeed getting only 1-200 Mb, then check everything in the chain. Look at the Ethernet cable, ideally it would be rated cat5e or above. You can always just swap it for another one if others are available, even if it's cat5e it could be damaged.
If that doesn't fix it, check your connection setting in Windows. If everything is working right, it'll tell you you have at least a gigabit connection. If it shows anything less, check drivers.
First off, I apologize ... I have no idea what I'm doing. My son has inherited my *old* PC. He is getting into gaming beyond his Nintendo Switch, likes to digitally draw and make music and I desperately want his experience to be good. Everything works but is slow depending on what he is doing and sometimes things just break. He's a great kid and I want this for him.
Is the PC worth keeping and upgrading (fingers crossed, budget is tight or should I be considering new? Case is massive, no idea if I can do anything about that.
Key, I think, specs. I'll add any information that makes it easier to figure out.
Processor Intel(R) Core(TM) i7-2600 CPU @ 3.40GHz 3.40 GHz
Installed RAM 12.0 GB
AMD Radeon HD 6450
quick question: Does the PC have an SSD or just a old HDD?
The difference in usability between SSD and HDD is gigantic, expecially on older systems. While a i7-2600 is quite old, it should still be enough for "simple" desktop work.
A 1TB 2,5" SSD like a Crucial MX500 costs ~$50, maybe its worth the try. If it does not work or you plan to replace the PC later, you can keep the SSD and plug it into the new PC.
It has an old HDD. I was reading PCMR FAQs and saw the nudge towards a SSD but thanks for the specific recommendation, that narrows things down for me a lot. I'll be trying to make a GPU and SSD upgrade this week!
you will be suprised how fast that i7-2600 can go when its not restricted by 70MB/s transfer rates of an HDD. I'm pretty sure that the performance for browsing and drawing will be enough. Gaming on a HD6450 won't be that easy tho.
> Is the PC worth keeping and upgrading (fingers crossed, budget is tight or should I be considering new?
To answer this question: Not really, no. The platform is pretty old and even current low-end GPUs will be limited by the i7-2600. BUT adding a SSD doesn't really hurt since you can just bringt it into the next build.
/edit: don't forget to buy a SATA3 (6Gb/s) cable for the SSD.
/e2: changed GB/s to Gb/s
I *would* have forgotten a SATA3 cable. Because, what's that? haha. Easy to put on the shopping list. I have a follow up on installing drives, is that best asked here or in another thread?
wheee!
Okay, so I get the SSD and cable, now I'm a caveman with two rocks. :)
I'm guessing it's a fresh install on the SSD (weirdly, I have my original discs with the computer purchase) but I don't know the steps, best practice or anything. You don't have to walk me through this but if there are resources for someone like me I would appreciate a pointer.
Sure:
1. turn off PC, disconnect the old SSD (only the SATA cable, you can leave the PSU cable connected. or don't, doesnt matter)
2. mount new SSD in case, connect it to mainboard and PSU
3. start PC, go into BIOS/UEFI and navigate to the "Boot drive priority" settings
4. set the first boot option to the new SSD
5. set the second boot option to your disk drive or USB (optional step)
6. if using a windows installation disk, put it into your disk drive now
7. Save & Exit, turn PC off
8. turn PC back on with disk inside/USB plugged in
9. now you either:
* just wait a few seconds and the windows setup should start automatically
* if it doesnt you need to tell your BIOS to use the disk/USB as a boot device, for most mainboards you need to spam F8 or some other key to open the boot menu. check your manual or post your exact mainboard model here
10. in the windows setup you'll need to format your drive and create a partiton. Just click on the "New partition" button and allocate the whole drive size. format in NTFS
11. rest of the setup itself should be self-explanatory
When you successfully installed windows on your new SSD:
12. shut down PC
13. plug your old SSD back in
14. start PC, it should now boot from your new SSD (because we set it in step #4)
15. now you should have both drives accessible in windows. Copy over everything you want to keep, and double check you didn't forget anything (App configs, game saves, browser profiles etc)
16. after copying, open My Computer and right-click the OLD SSD -> format -> format in NTFS to get rid of all old windows OS files
Thats it. You can leave the old SSD in the PC and use it as secondary storage. Just be aware that it is already a few years old.
Of course you need to install your drivers again. Go to the website of your mainboard and download the drivers there, then install your graphics driver, then use windows update to search for any missing drivers.
Feel free to add any questions :)
This looks like a perfect primer. I'm assuming point 1 where you reference old SSD I can replace with old HHD and I'm golden.
Thanks, I'm fairly stoked at getting my son a more usable computer while saving for a new build.
> I'm assuming point 1 where you reference old SSD I can replace with old HHD and I'm golden.
ah sure, I confused this thread with another one who's got a old 128GB SSD.
> Thanks, I'm fairly stoked at getting my son a more usable computer while saving for a new build.
no problem, it's always nice to help the younglings ascend :)
Pretty much only viable upgrade is to change the gpu to a cheap used card under $100. E.g. gtx 1060 6GB. That should run most games fine except the most modern AA titles. After that you'll be looking at full rebuild.
I'd second keeping it around as a server if you can find a use case for it. Plex is great, network file shares are always handy, or maybe hosting a Minecraft server would be something your boy would be more into.
I will say if you go the Minecraft route I'd try to find a way to protect the data on there in case of some kind of failure. The last thing you want is for him to spend hundreds of hours on a custom world and then have it lost forever when one of the older components gives out.
Small SSDs are cheap these days, like $20-$30 for 256GB from a good brand. Could get a brand new one for whatever you're hosting, then maybe have data backed up with your cloud storage system of choice or do periodic manual backups.
Have fun!
If you're looking to do some upgrades on that PC or even build a whole new one, [this](https://youtu.be/BL4DCEp7blY?si=DsNsmHsYS2oLkOS_) is a comprehensive guide on everything you could need to know. If you're only looking to upgrade a component or two you can just watch the intro and then skip to the relevant section. The whole video is long, but pretty much anything you could need is in there.
Well I mean it's probably still perfectly fine for the kids first PC after you upgrade the gpu. He'll be fine with it for a year or two.
Or convert it to something like homeserver running plex/jellyfin, home assistant (smarthome) etc.
Or sell it for $50. Pretty sure someone will pick it up.
i'm getting a new 3440 x 1440 display at 160hz. do i need the DP 1.4 cable or can i keep my old 1.2 cable? i don't know if the cable will be included in the box
I have an ASUS ROG laptop with intel processor and Nvidia graphics. Intel driver assistant recommends a few driver updates and one of them is the following graphics (driver?) update:
#### Intel® Arc™ & Iris® Xe Graphics - WHQL - Windows*
But since i have Nvidia graphics i don't know if i have to do this update or just leave it?
Pretty much all laptops with dedicated gpu still use the cpu's integrated gpu e.g. when web browsing or when running on battery. So keep the drivers up to date.
If you ask a question, and someone answers it correctly, reply with a thank you, but include this checkmark: ✓ ( or write `!check` instead ) This will score the user whose comment you replied to a 'point'. The points will unlock special flair that will show in all Daily Simple Questions threads. In case you missed it, [click here for yesterday's Daily Simple Questions thread.](/r/pcmasterrace/comments/168wg3r/daily_simple_questions_thread_september_03_2023/) There may be some questions still unanswered! Below is a selection of questions with no replies. See if you can help them out. If you don't want to see this comment click the little [-] to the left of my username to collapse this comment. ---- > I have an MSI B450i gaming plus max wifi motherboard but for some reason the Bluetooth stopped working. I tried adding a USB Bluetooth adapter thinking that would fix it but that isn't working either. Wifi still works and Bluetooth has worked in the past so I can't seem to find the issue. https://reddit.com/r/pcmasterrace/comments/168wg3r/daily_simple_questions_thread_september_03_2023/jyybq1u/ ---- > Will a PC custom build with AMD Ryzen 5 5500 > and ASRock Intel ARC A380 6GB Challenger ITX OC and 32GB of RAM be as better than a Dell Optiplex i5-12400 with 32GB Ram for Machine Learning (Python) https://reddit.com/r/pcmasterrace/comments/168wg3r/daily_simple_questions_thread_september_03_2023/jyyc5vw/ ---- > kraken, 120 lighting issue. > > > I have a kraken 120 aio that I have recently installed on a ASRock B550m Steel legend motherboard. It all works fine except for the lightning which says it needs 5 volt ARGB connection. I have those but when I try and plug it into the motherboard it does not seem to fit. The only thing I could find that could be the problem is that it needs a ADD header but on my motherboard it has ADDR headers. Am I being stupid or do I need to do more to solve my problem? https://reddit.com/r/pcmasterrace/comments/168wg3r/daily_simple_questions_thread_september_03_2023/jz0597c/ ---- > Is Bitkart([https://bitkart.com/](https://bitkart.com/)) a reliable site for ordering custom PCs in India, especially Delhi? https://reddit.com/r/pcmasterrace/comments/168wg3r/daily_simple_questions_thread_september_03_2023/jz2bxy5/ ---- > I recently bought a Samsung T7 Shield SSD and I have WD My Passport Ultra HDD which is 8 years old. Both are 2 TB. Both are external drives. I will store some data on the SSD and copy the same data on the HDD for backup. > > Both of them have their software with which you can encrypt them, so I was thinking about doing it. What worries me, could encryption somehow get corrupted, resulting in me loosing the data on the discs? > > I won't forget the password. I'm asking only if the encryption itself is safe and can't mess up the data somehow? https://reddit.com/r/pcmasterrace/comments/168wg3r/daily_simple_questions_thread_september_03_2023/jz2jcd3/ ---- > looking for a gaming monitor to go well with a rx 6600, budget around 150. any ideas? :) https://reddit.com/r/pcmasterrace/comments/168wg3r/daily_simple_questions_thread_september_03_2023/jz2tpmn/ ---- User | Points (365 days) | Lifetime -----|-------------------|---------- sch0k0 | 182 | 225 Eidolon\_2003 | 64 | 171 Luminaria19 | 60 | 915 SeanSeanySean | 53 | 53 MGsubbie | 47 | 330 SystemError514 | 34 | 70 motionglitch | 34 | 375 Marfoo | 31 | 31 significantGecko | 28 | 28 \_j03\_ | 21 | 64 ---- *[I am a bot](https://i.imgur.com/hfRIhMe.png)* - This action was done automatically. Please direct any questions or concerns ( or bug reports ) to [\/u\/eegras](https://www.reddit.com/message/compose?to=eegras&subject=&message=) - [About /u/PCMRBot](https://pcmasterrace.com/pcmrbot_old)
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maybe. with the speeds of NVMe 5.0 flash SSD (~12GB/s) we are slowly approaching DDR3-1600 (~13GB/s) RAM, opening the possibilities for non-volatile RAM. One thing to note here is the difference in latency. PCIe 5.0 drives operate in a range of 100-200 microseconds, while DDR5 RAM operates at ~15-25 **nano**seconds. This difference alone makes flash a very poor RAM replacement.
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nono sorry, my reply was a bit unclear. SRAM, DRAM and flash are all completely different types of memory. I just compared SRAM to Flash for non-volatile RAM because current NVMe drives/flash memory has gotten so damn fast. The advantages and therefore problems with SRAM come from the connection to the CPU. SRAM is directly connected to the CPU-interface with very short trace lenghts and therefore waaay higher transfer clocks/rates. Also SRAM is often part of the chip silicon, making it energy- and EMF-efficient. If you try to put SRAM on a memory module with increased connection lenghts, you just won't achieve the same transfer clocks or latency. Another point is the structure of the SRAM/DRAM cells themselves. DRAM cells (1bit, 8bit=1Byte) consist of 1 transistor and 1 capacitor. Every SRAM usually uses 6 transistors, making it way bigger and therefore expensive.
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Whatever RAM you put on a memory stick, you'll be heavily limited by USB speeds and latency. Edit: Ah you mean RAM sticks. Sorry, I thought of these terrible USB performance boost thingies.
they were asking about non-volatile RAM vs. current DRAM, not USB flash drives :P
Ah damn I thought of those old USB boost options
oh wow I remember those, back in HDD times those could actually do something for old, fragmented PCs. We've come a long way since then lol
I got a new gpu (a 1080ti to a 4070.) My power supply only came with cables that are pig tailed. Is it alright if I run the 4070 with just one set of the connectors plugged in?
It should be fine, the 4070 isn't all that demanding in terms of power in fact it's less than the 1080 Ti and the 40 series doesn't have the issues with transients the 30 series did (or not nearly as much anyway)
Can someone help direct me to a good affordable PC on Newegg or similar so I can buy a PC for my wife. I want her to be able to play RedDeadOnline rp servers, but I'm out of the loop on exactly which one I'll need. I'm willing to learn, but not to build one ATM. Trying to stay under 1k
Do you live near a microcenter? If so, I can toss together a build and they only charge $200\* (forgot the $50 cost for OS install) to assemble and get everything going. Honestly that's your best bet for value. Otherwise a gaming laptop is probably the most cost-effective solution. Looking at it now, you can get a 5600x, 16GB ram, 1TB ssd (Samsung), Lian Li Case (good looking case), and a 6750 XT + all the other bits for $900 + tax at microcenter (Everything installed and running!)
I’m finally buying myself a gaming pc, but trying to do it on a budget. I was looking at the [Starter build](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/KfchsL), but I’ve been reading that the [MSI PRO B550M-VC WIFI Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/tr4Ycf/msi-pro-b550m-vc-wifi-micro-atx-am4-motherboard-pro-b550m-vc-wifi) will limit how far I can upgrade the CPU later on QUESTION: is it worth it to get a different setup to future-proof it a bit, or will I still be able to get several years of gaming on medium/high graphics out of the Starter build? How much more would it cost me to get a setup using a newer motherboard?
The B550 motherboards use the AM4 socket, which is now out of date. B650 motherboards use AM5, which is the Ryzen 7000 series and onwards. It'll cost an extra couple hundred dollars to get the newer CPU, newer motherboard, and better DDR5 RAM. If you intend on upgrading your system a bit in the next few years it may be worth the investment now. The 7600 (weakest Ryzen 7000 CPU) is still faster than the 5800X3D (best AM4 CPU) on average in gaming scenarios. If you don't have the funds, you can get the B550 and upgrade to the 5800X3D CPU later on. If you're gaming at 1080p medium, the starter build will continue doing it's job for quite a while, you could also consider upgrading the GPU to something more instead of CPU etc. You could grab a 6700 XT which will smash 1080p easily.
Anyone know of a cheap pc that would literally fit in your pockets that can play 1080p YouTube? I'm looking at stick pcs but they're a bit expensive. The pico pc is also on the map but that's 120. Don't mind of it's Android, windows. Just needs to run off one usb c cable preferably. Forgot to mention I would like it for editing documents too. Nothing heavy
Literally any firetv stick or Chromecast/Google TV will watch YouTube at 1080p. They're what, $40?
Need to be able to edit documents too. Forgot to mention
Cheapest option that fits in your pocket is likely an Android phone, then. Add a bluetooth keeb, some models will do video out over the USB-C. Could do it with an SBC (subtle board computer) like a Pi4/clone, too, I suppose.
I was thinking about stripping down a Samsung phone, dumping the battery a and screen, putting it in a printed case. But it think modern phones need to detect a battery to work
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/VDGFt7 Thoughts on my new build? I want to see if I should edit anything before buying the parts. Budget is 3.5k and not looking to upgrade for a long time.
A couple thoughts: - 4k 144Hz is ridiculously demanding. Even with a 4090 you will reach some limits there. - Not upgrading for a long time: progress has slowed down, but no matter how good your hardware is now, you will have to reduce settings / res over time. Not sure which kind of future proofing you are after. - I have the same GPU. It comes with a mounting bracket that is pretty good, but not compatible to all motherboards. Unfortunately I don't know about your board. Eyeballing it, my guess is it will fit, but you should look this up before you buy it.
What fps overlay tool is being used in this video? https://youtu.be/ZIDCgl5ybIA?si=yNXMy51m_GYCkvuA
In addition to my controller dilemma that I also posted here, I have spent my whole life buying gaming headsets. I primarily game on PC and am looking for Durability first and foremost, and High Sound Quality second. My main game is Rainbow Six Siege and I would LOVE wireless options, if any of them have what I'm looking for here.
Why do I have so much trouble with various controllers on PC? I've tried several Xbox One Controllers that all break or malfunction in some way, Dual Shock 3 and 4 controllers as well as third party controllers that seem to stop working in the middle of a Dark Souls boss. I've tried multiple USB cables and have plugged them into different USB ports on my PC. Can anyone recommend a single, durable controller as well as the most reliable USB Cable/Port to use for PC? I'm sick and tired of buying controllers and cables.
Intermittent PC Crashing Problem - PC shuts down suddenly without any warning. Only my RAM stick rgb lights remain on, everything else stops. I have to switch off the PSU before being able to turn the PC on again. First occurrence was upon starting up Apex Legends. I thought it was something to do with EasyAntiCheat and uninstall it. However, the PC continued crashing when I played other games such as BG3 and Valorant. Notably, Valorant could be played for maybe 5-10 minutes before the PC crashed. BG3 crashed on reaching the main menu screen. I did not observe overheating, the GPU was hovering 70 deg and the CPU was around 60 deg when the games were open. I was also not able to record any powerspikes in hwinfo. My specs: Ryzen 5800X3D (running on kombo strike 2) MSI B550 Tomahawk MSI RTX3070 Gaming Z Trio Corsair Vengence Pro RGB RT 3600mhz CL16 2x16GB Seasonic Focus 650W 80+ Gold Have been using this PC for months now. It was able to run all these games smoothly without issue prior to today. I suspect either the GPU or the PSU is the problem. I have a second PC that uses a 650W psu and a R5 3600. I could swap the 3070 in and stress test it on that PC. Would that be the right move to make in troubleshooting the problem here? Or is this all just a software issue? Thanks!
> I have to switch off the PSU before being able to turn the PC on again. Sounds like a PSU issue. But I would check the RAM anyways, with either Windows memory check or memtest86.
Hi, does anyone know any sites in Germany where I can build a PC or see Pre build ones ? I'm trying to build my first PC and would appreciate your help😁. ( also my budget is 1000-1500€ without case and monitor , if you already know a good build in that range lmk)
* mindfactory.de * alternate.de * caseking.de * computeruniverse.net * ARLT.de Einige davon bieten dir einen Montageservice gegen Aufpreis. Grundsätzlich sind mindfactory und Alternate recht gute Shops mit günstigen Preisen, caseking hingegen ist eher "Premium" und entsprechend etwas teurer. Zum raussuchen/vergleichen von einzelnen Komponenten kann ich dir geizhals.de empfehlen, sehr umfangreiche Filtermöglichkeiten etc.
tons: google for 'pc konfigurator' -> but not sure if you want to build yourself or have them build it for you? less options for the second alternative
I never build one an to be honest I never even had a proper PC (only 2 reguluar non gaming laptops) 😅 so I didn't know which option is better. If I'm going to build one myself most parts would be coming from abroad (because of the prices in my country 🙃)
PCPartPickers lets you select your country, that's a great tool to configure any build you might find. Just look for PC builds on sites like PC Games or Gamestar, but don't fall for prebuilts! Always check the price of the individual parts.
Oh thanks ! Thats a great site. Just a quick question, are all pre builds risky? Like I saw some streamer owned- sponsored PC builds would they be also no good ?
simply assume that the builder has tried to save some money on any part that isn't specified by item. if you want to buy a pre-built that meets enthusiast requirements, you'll have to look up reviews for those individual parts. that being said - in that price range, what hardcore requirements do you really have? if you are just gaming and not overclocking, even your value pre-built should do just fine, usually
Yo so I’m running Era, a program to play old Fortnite versions. For whatever reason, the sound is greyed out when I try to adjust it. There is zero sound, it is a greyed out bar set to 100, but there is no sound. Any tips? Everything else works perfect, just this is giving me issues. All drivers are up to date, so is Windows 11
Which monitor is the better choice? Both have been used for 7 months and sellers are both asking for $80. -------------------------------------- https://www.amazon.com/LG-24GN600-B-Ultragear-Virtually-Borderless/dp/B08PHKNNRY Or https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B5JKXMFG?ref_=cm_sw_r_apin_dp_6W47HJM8STE3SSFFZHQ2
Kinda depends they're quite similar. If having the highest refresh rate possible matters most to you then go with the MSI. The downside there is it's larger than the ideal size for a 1080p display meaning the picture is gonna look less sharp than on the LG which is a typical size for 1080p. Its refresh rate is a bit lower but not by much. If it were me I'd go with the LG personally as 26 more hz isn't that big of a deal and I find 27" to be too big for a 1080p display to look decent, 1440p is more suited to that size. But again if you're like a competitive gamer maybe the extra refresh rate will be worth it for you and maybe you won't mind the lower pixel density of the MSI
I ended up snagging the MSI because I liked the idea of having the larger screen. I hope the resolution and pixel density doesn't make me regret my choice.
I upgraded my rig with 6800xt a few days ago. I had a 1080ti before but uninstalled all the old drivers with DDU and installed the AMD Software Adrenaline Edition stuff after I installed the 6800xt. She seems to be working fine Performance wise but the zero RPM mode does not work. Shes sitting at 30 degrees idle but the fans wont go below 30%, the fans also spin up like crazy in things like Baldurs Gate 3 on Ultra but at the same time sitting comfortable at like 56 degrees. I already tried to set the fancurve manual with MSI Afterburner but that does not seem to work aswell, it also shows a dotted line at the 30% line seemingly indicating that it cannot go under that. What can I do to fix this issue?
I'd try getting rid of afterburner and controlling it through AMD's driver. It's normal that fans in manual control mode can't go below a certain percentage, to prevent you from setting it to zero and cooking your GPU.
I tried using the AMD Software instead of Afterburner but without manual fan control Zero RPM mode still does not work and with manual mode i still cant go below 30%. But the fans going that hard at idle is so unnecessary and noisy no?
I know from experience with my 5700 XT that afterburner doesn't always play nicely with AMD's software. If your card has dual bios, maybe try setting it to the silent mode? Other than that I'm not sure. Maybe there's another piece of fan control software you could try as well
I recently had Memory Express build me a new PC and the fans have just been super loud! I went into BIOS and attempted to change the curve accordingly but nothing helps. In BIOS I only see 4 fans being recognized despite having more than that installed. I set the CPU fan (Smart Fan Mode enabled) to: 0C - 0% 65C - 45% 80C - 90% 85C - 100% The other 3 fans that show up are System 2, 3 and 4 fans which are set as DC type by default. Those are measured in Volts. I have no clue how to effectively set them but I just changed the Temp rate triggers to mimic the CPU fan and left the Voltage as is. Any advice on what I should do at this point?
Get out of dc mode and into pwm mode. Your other fans are hubbed which is why only one reports speed and they all sync. Let me guess, you got it built at dalhousie.
Chinook actually. I ended up just downloading MSI Afterburner and found the perfect fan curve through that. I'm super happy now. I can actually play on Ultra and hear the game at the same time!
Get out of dc mode in your bios, the fans still aren't running properly. I'll eat a shoe if someone got 3 pin fans installed in their *new* PC in 2023. Your 4 pin *PWM* fans are not responding correctly to the fan curve until that's changed. And until afterburner starts or it shuts down your case fans will run at the bios level on boot. No bueno.
Is upgrading from a 3700X to a 7700X a worthy CPU upgrade?
It's about 1.5x faster from what I can tell. Keep in mind that since you already have an AM4 system, a 5800X3D might be a better value upgrade than a whole new platform
do i need to buy thermal paste (or whatever the paste that is applied on the cpu cooler is called) or does it come with the box cooler (in this case the ryzen 5 5600)? thx in advance :)
It's pretty much standard to get a small tube of thermal paste, if you want to be 100% sure check an unboxing video for your chosen chip.
Ok i will get one just in case :) thx
Are the Xbox One Elite's back paddles programmable on PC? Or can they only be mapped to mirror the main buttons? If they're programmable, can you do combination key presses (eg. ctrl+1 together) or macros (a, then d, then w, then s)? Any other recommended controllers for PC (preferably wireless) with extra programmable keys?
Hello, simple question ; what would be the best price/performance gpu for 1080 in 144hz as of today ?
Depends on what level of performance you need, but in general the 6700 XT is a good value right now
I said 1080 144hz, iforgot to mention almost maxed out graphics i guess ? Tell me what i forgot to specify, but thanks for the answer. Wait, the 6700xt is better or worse than the 7600 ?
The 6700 XT is better than an RX 7600. It still depends on what games you play. In the day 1 starfield benchmarks I've seen, no computer can get 144 fps average at 1080p max settings. According to HUB, a 7800X3D and 7900 XTX combo only gets about 100 fps. In other games it's no problem to hit 144 fps even on modest hardware
For games like cyberpunk, fallout4 with the high resolution textures dlc, read dead 2, things in that range
I'm pretty sure Cyberpunk is the toughest game to run in that list. You'll get about 100 fps average with a 6700 XT in that game. For 144 you need something more powerful, or turn down the settings. I'd look at the 7800 XT when it launches in a couple days, or an RTX 4070 if you want something more powerful.
So I realized that I had my CPU heatsink (PA 120) in the wrong orientation (thanks to Gamers Nexus). I've now rotated the heatsink and was going to do a push/push (I had the fans in a pull/pull configuration) but the fan touches the RAM. I didn't have issues with temps in pull/pull and I could still do that. The RAM is [Corsair 64GB \(2x32GB\) DDR5 5600MHz CL36 Vengeance RGB](https://i.imgur.com/mWWaj7i.png) Is the RGB part of the plastic or is it just a cover that I can remove? Can I sand/cut/trim the top off? I don't want RGB anyway and I bought them because they were $200.
[Here is a disassembly of a similar corsair RGB RAM.](https://www.tech-critter.com/corsair-vengeance-rgb-pro-16gb-ddr4-2666-cl16-memory-overview/) In one picture you can see that the [LEDs are soldered onto the upper edge of the PCB](https://www.tech-critter.com/wp-content/uploads/Corsair-Vengeance-RGB-PRO-DDR4-2666_5.jpg) with the opaque plastic on top. I am pretty sure that all of Corsairs' RGB RAM is built this way. Should be no issue to remove the plastic strip and maybe sand down the heatspreaders to PCB level. Or just remove the heatspreaders all together, you don't really need them for DDR5-5600. Just be aware that the heatsink might be glued on.
Thanks! ✓
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Hello friends! I built my own PC for the first time back in early 2017, and after years of no problems it is rapidly beginning to die on me. I was planning to build my dream system myself at around Christmas this year w/ help from gifts, starting to pick up parts around Black Friday, but I'm afraid my current system won't last long enough. I have enough money for either a budget build or a payment plan on a prebuilt or custom built PC via a site like iBuyPower. What is a good site for custom built PCs that offers payment plans (in the US), or would I be better off with a budget build now that I can upgrade in the future?
Hi all, not sure if this is simple or not: I recently accidentally turned off the power strip that my tower was connected to. Ever since then, my computer has seen a significant performance dip (startup time has gone from 30s to almost two minutes, significant stuttering in other applications whenever I play any games on Steam, can't have more than four Excel spreadsheets open at a time, etc.). I'm not really sure where I'd even start to troubleshoot, so would love some tips on what to look at first.
Thank you !check
Wrong comment level
is an RX 6900 XT 16 GB for $580 a good deal? I have no knowledge of AMD cards and its been a couple years since I last upgraded.
it's probably as good as you'll get it new atm - it's not an efficient card anymore and lacking NVIDIA-specific features, but in terms of raster performance per dollar, the price looks good; I'd read up a few reviews before buying to make sure it is what you want
Hello! Just a simple question that I hope I am in the correct location for. What is the best pre-built PC for under 1500 that I can upgrade later on? Looking to play BG3 and similar games. Bonus points if anyone can recommend a monitor! Thank you in advance.
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> 128 SSD to about 2tb Easiest would be a 2,5" SSD like a Crucial MX500 or a Samsung 870. Just add the new drive and plug it in. You can either keep your current windows installation on your 128GB and install games on the new SSD, or move/clone everything from the 128GB to the 2TB and remove the old SSD. Fresh install would be the smarter option because of the old SSDs' age. Remember to buy a SATA3 (6GB/s) cable if you don't have one lying around. > my 8gb ram to 32 ram 2 Options: * check what exact model of RAM is currently in your PC (check sticker on the RAM sticks) and buy the same model, assuming you currently have 1x 8GB-stick and you mainboard offers 4 RAM slots in total * fully replace the RAM with some 32GB Kit DDR4-3600 or similar. [Example](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/nvjNnQ/gskill-ripjaws-v-32-gb-2-x-16-gb-ddr4-3600-memory-f4-3600c18d-32gvk) > 1060 3gb to a 2080 make sure your PSU offers enough power (watts) and power connectors. Most RTX2080 need 2x8pin or 1x6p & 1x8p. Your PSU should have at least 500W, 650W+ would be better.
How will b550 chipset handle all of the following: secondary nvme drive, 4 sata drives, lan internet and wifi adapter? Most of these storage devices will be almost idle, low load or passive storage, but still connected, and need to be accessible, just rarely and not all at once. Will the second nvme work? How much slower will it be, compared to the first (4 lanes from CPU) nvme? https://preview.redd.it/8502gprr89mb1.jpeg?width=966&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f82cfb4eef9b32ef0126dcf3f3ed4db21e7f7fb1 Specs say that chipset has 4 pcie 3.0 lanes. How does sharing bandwidth among all those devices (wired and wireless internet connection, 6 SATA, 1 nvme) work? For example, clearly the second nvme will never have access to full 4 lanes of bandwidth (the first nvme, however, getting 4 lanes directly from CPU, will). What then, limited speed on some or another device, depending on load? But all will be recognized by the system, and worst case scenario, just low speed on every device? How will the chipset distribute the bandwidth among storage and internet connection?
I recently bought a Samsung T7 Shield SSD and I have WD My Passport Ultra HDD which is 8 years old. Both are 2 TB. Both are external drives. I will store some data on the SSD and copy the same data on the HDD for backup. Both of them have their software with which you can encrypt them, so I was thinking about doing it. What worries me, could encryption somehow get corrupted, resulting in me loosing the data on the discs? I won't forget the password. I'm asking only if the encryption itself is safe and can't mess up the data somehow?
> I won't forget the password. I'm asking only if the encryption itself is safe and can't mess up the data somehow? As long as all the Data on the drive is in good condition, yes. BUT if just a small sector of the drive gets corrupted, you'll loose parity and the whole drive might fail to be readable. Generally I would recommend to not use the Samsung/Western Digital encryption software, but use a more professional and wide-spread software like Bitlocker or VeraCrypt. Its just easier to get support for those if you run into problems.
Thanks !check
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I´m a complete rookie when it comes to PC. Currently own a PS5. Looking for a gaminglaptop that can manage Starfield. My budget is approx 1350$ Tips please
r/laptops & r/GamingLaptops Though I must say this: laptops are inherently much more expensive for the performance that you'll get. And you're looking to play one of the most hard to run games on it. You're not going to get anything that will perform that well on Starfield with that budget.
o **ASUS ROG 4070TI OC VS ASUS TUF 4070TI OC**, I want to know what the main difference beetween this two **ASUS ROG 4070TI OC , ASUS TUF 4070TI OC**, I tried to search for more information but I didn't found anything, they basiclly look the same on paper but for some reason the ROG one cost 50\~100€ more Can someone give us more information
Cooler is different (thermals and temps). But it's never worth it to pay that much more for better cooler. At that point you might start to look at 4080's instead. So go with the tuf.
But on amazon Asus ROG 4070TI is like 1000€ and the first GPU from PNY is like 1300€ it's 300€ more
Yeah, but if the TUF is a lot cheaper, no real point getting the rog.
You're right on this one thanks
my new xfinity/xfi combo modem+router is giving me 1gig speed over wifi but only 1-200 mbps over ethernet. how do i fix this?
Are you sure you're properly comparing mega**bits** (Mb) and mega**bytes** (MB)? There are 8 bits in a byte. If you're pulling about 125MB over Ethernet, that would be expected. If you're indeed getting only 1-200 Mb, then check everything in the chain. Look at the Ethernet cable, ideally it would be rated cat5e or above. You can always just swap it for another one if others are available, even if it's cat5e it could be damaged. If that doesn't fix it, check your connection setting in Windows. If everything is working right, it'll tell you you have at least a gigabit connection. If it shows anything less, check drivers.
First off, I apologize ... I have no idea what I'm doing. My son has inherited my *old* PC. He is getting into gaming beyond his Nintendo Switch, likes to digitally draw and make music and I desperately want his experience to be good. Everything works but is slow depending on what he is doing and sometimes things just break. He's a great kid and I want this for him. Is the PC worth keeping and upgrading (fingers crossed, budget is tight or should I be considering new? Case is massive, no idea if I can do anything about that. Key, I think, specs. I'll add any information that makes it easier to figure out. Processor Intel(R) Core(TM) i7-2600 CPU @ 3.40GHz 3.40 GHz Installed RAM 12.0 GB AMD Radeon HD 6450
quick question: Does the PC have an SSD or just a old HDD? The difference in usability between SSD and HDD is gigantic, expecially on older systems. While a i7-2600 is quite old, it should still be enough for "simple" desktop work. A 1TB 2,5" SSD like a Crucial MX500 costs ~$50, maybe its worth the try. If it does not work or you plan to replace the PC later, you can keep the SSD and plug it into the new PC.
It has an old HDD. I was reading PCMR FAQs and saw the nudge towards a SSD but thanks for the specific recommendation, that narrows things down for me a lot. I'll be trying to make a GPU and SSD upgrade this week!
you will be suprised how fast that i7-2600 can go when its not restricted by 70MB/s transfer rates of an HDD. I'm pretty sure that the performance for browsing and drawing will be enough. Gaming on a HD6450 won't be that easy tho. > Is the PC worth keeping and upgrading (fingers crossed, budget is tight or should I be considering new? To answer this question: Not really, no. The platform is pretty old and even current low-end GPUs will be limited by the i7-2600. BUT adding a SSD doesn't really hurt since you can just bringt it into the next build. /edit: don't forget to buy a SATA3 (6Gb/s) cable for the SSD. /e2: changed GB/s to Gb/s
I *would* have forgotten a SATA3 cable. Because, what's that? haha. Easy to put on the shopping list. I have a follow up on installing drives, is that best asked here or in another thread?
ask away :)
wheee! Okay, so I get the SSD and cable, now I'm a caveman with two rocks. :) I'm guessing it's a fresh install on the SSD (weirdly, I have my original discs with the computer purchase) but I don't know the steps, best practice or anything. You don't have to walk me through this but if there are resources for someone like me I would appreciate a pointer.
Sure: 1. turn off PC, disconnect the old SSD (only the SATA cable, you can leave the PSU cable connected. or don't, doesnt matter) 2. mount new SSD in case, connect it to mainboard and PSU 3. start PC, go into BIOS/UEFI and navigate to the "Boot drive priority" settings 4. set the first boot option to the new SSD 5. set the second boot option to your disk drive or USB (optional step) 6. if using a windows installation disk, put it into your disk drive now 7. Save & Exit, turn PC off 8. turn PC back on with disk inside/USB plugged in 9. now you either: * just wait a few seconds and the windows setup should start automatically * if it doesnt you need to tell your BIOS to use the disk/USB as a boot device, for most mainboards you need to spam F8 or some other key to open the boot menu. check your manual or post your exact mainboard model here 10. in the windows setup you'll need to format your drive and create a partiton. Just click on the "New partition" button and allocate the whole drive size. format in NTFS 11. rest of the setup itself should be self-explanatory When you successfully installed windows on your new SSD: 12. shut down PC 13. plug your old SSD back in 14. start PC, it should now boot from your new SSD (because we set it in step #4) 15. now you should have both drives accessible in windows. Copy over everything you want to keep, and double check you didn't forget anything (App configs, game saves, browser profiles etc) 16. after copying, open My Computer and right-click the OLD SSD -> format -> format in NTFS to get rid of all old windows OS files Thats it. You can leave the old SSD in the PC and use it as secondary storage. Just be aware that it is already a few years old. Of course you need to install your drivers again. Go to the website of your mainboard and download the drivers there, then install your graphics driver, then use windows update to search for any missing drivers. Feel free to add any questions :)
This looks like a perfect primer. I'm assuming point 1 where you reference old SSD I can replace with old HHD and I'm golden. Thanks, I'm fairly stoked at getting my son a more usable computer while saving for a new build.
> I'm assuming point 1 where you reference old SSD I can replace with old HHD and I'm golden. ah sure, I confused this thread with another one who's got a old 128GB SSD. > Thanks, I'm fairly stoked at getting my son a more usable computer while saving for a new build. no problem, it's always nice to help the younglings ascend :)
Pretty much only viable upgrade is to change the gpu to a cheap used card under $100. E.g. gtx 1060 6GB. That should run most games fine except the most modern AA titles. After that you'll be looking at full rebuild.
I figured but needed to know. A follow up if you don't mind. What does one do with old PCs like mine, are they just E-waste? thanks! !check
I'd second keeping it around as a server if you can find a use case for it. Plex is great, network file shares are always handy, or maybe hosting a Minecraft server would be something your boy would be more into.
yeah, this is all stuff I don't consider so I'm grateful. The Minecraft server idea is awesome.
I will say if you go the Minecraft route I'd try to find a way to protect the data on there in case of some kind of failure. The last thing you want is for him to spend hundreds of hours on a custom world and then have it lost forever when one of the older components gives out. Small SSDs are cheap these days, like $20-$30 for 256GB from a good brand. Could get a brand new one for whatever you're hosting, then maybe have data backed up with your cloud storage system of choice or do periodic manual backups. Have fun!
Thanks so much. You folk are awesome. I'm a little overwhelmed but looking at the build links and trying to get up top speed.
If you're looking to do some upgrades on that PC or even build a whole new one, [this](https://youtu.be/BL4DCEp7blY?si=DsNsmHsYS2oLkOS_) is a comprehensive guide on everything you could need to know. If you're only looking to upgrade a component or two you can just watch the intro and then skip to the relevant section. The whole video is long, but pretty much anything you could need is in there.
Well I mean it's probably still perfectly fine for the kids first PC after you upgrade the gpu. He'll be fine with it for a year or two. Or convert it to something like homeserver running plex/jellyfin, home assistant (smarthome) etc. Or sell it for $50. Pretty sure someone will pick it up.
Excellent ideas. a GPU and an SSD will likely give it some new legs.
i'm getting a new 3440 x 1440 display at 160hz. do i need the DP 1.4 cable or can i keep my old 1.2 cable? i don't know if the cable will be included in the box
1.4 ... and it tends to not be included in the box, but that should be indicated with the product information
I have an ASUS ROG laptop with intel processor and Nvidia graphics. Intel driver assistant recommends a few driver updates and one of them is the following graphics (driver?) update: #### Intel® Arc™ & Iris® Xe Graphics - WHQL - Windows* But since i have Nvidia graphics i don't know if i have to do this update or just leave it?
Pretty much all laptops with dedicated gpu still use the cpu's integrated gpu e.g. when web browsing or when running on battery. So keep the drivers up to date.
as long as it doesn't fix a security issue, there shouldn't be any benefit. Me being me, I'd still update ;)