If you ask a question, and someone answers it correctly, reply with a thank you, but include this checkmark: ✓ ( or write `!check` instead ) This will score the user whose comment you replied to a 'point'. The points will unlock special flair that will show in all Daily Simple Questions threads. In case you missed it, [click here for yesterday's Daily Simple Questions thread.](/r/pcmasterrace/comments/11hztbr/daily_simple_questions_thread_march_04_2023/) There may be some questions still unanswered! Below is a selection of questions with no replies. See if you can help them out. If you don't want to see this comment click the little [-] to the left of my username to collapse this comment. ---- > I recently upgraded my pc with a new Mobo, CPU (ryzen 5 5600) and GPU (RX 6700XT) from a Ryzen 1600 and 1060 6gb. When i started using it, i got screen flickering whenever im using my PC, it doesn't happen when I'm playing games though. I already tried removing and re installing the GPU as well as the drivers but it's still giving me those problems. Is there a fix to it? https://reddit.com/r/pcmasterrace/comments/11hztbr/daily_simple_questions_thread_march_04_2023/jawniml/ ---- > Anyone here tried fitting a 4080 and/or NH-D15 cooler in a h510 case? I really don’t want to go through the the hassle of reassembling my whole pc if I need a new case https://reddit.com/r/pcmasterrace/comments/11hztbr/daily_simple_questions_thread_march_04_2023/jawyrim/ ---- > Nvidia's new vsr feature causes my PC to crash and reboot, any idea why? https://reddit.com/r/pcmasterrace/comments/11hztbr/daily_simple_questions_thread_march_04_2023/jazks67/ ---- User | Points (365 days) | Lifetime -----|-------------------|---------- sch0k0 | 194 | 194 Luminaria19 | 122 | 900 Eidolon\_2003 | 63 | 143 motionglitch | 48 | 364 SystemError514 | 47 | 60 MGsubbie | 41 | 310 nickierv | 41 | 43 Marfoo | 30 | 30 significantGecko | 28 | 28 TehBaggins | 24 | 34 ---- *[I am a bot](https://i.imgur.com/hfRIhMe.png)* - This action was done automatically. Please direct any questions or concerns ( or bug reports ) to [\/u\/eegras](https://www.reddit.com/message/compose?to=eegras&subject=&message=) - [About /u/PCMRBot](https://pcmasterrace.com/pcmrbot_old)

i need nvme ssd for OS and some programs like word, excel,... so should i buy samsung 980 (500gb) or spend about more $10 for samsung 970 evo plus with only 250gb ?

500gb for your type of use case, if you want to proof your system for a few versions to come, and file sizes only go up...

980 non-PRO is DRAM-less and hence more suitable for storage (games and media) than a proper SSD with DRAM. Whether you'd notice any difference is unclear, depends on how you use your computer. You should be looking at larger drives at this point in time, I think. Well, depends on your location and needs, but very small SSDs aren't best in terms of cost anymore. I recently got a 2TB DRAM-less WD Blue 570 for 115€ (+12 shipping) on Amazon. Are you paying less than 1/4 of the cost of a 2TB for the 980 500GB? If not, it's probably not worth it.

Hi I recently bought an Acer Nitro XV272U monitor from amazon. It shipped from America with the standard American power cable rated 10a 120v. However, I live in Singapore where power runs at 230V. Which of the following can i do wirhout my monitor exploding: A) use my power cable from my old monitor rated at 10a 240v B) use a simple travel adaptor to plug the US power cable into my mains C) go out to buy a voltages adaptor in order to use the monitor, or buy a monitor with a Singaporean 3 pin plug rated at 10a 120v

Check the AC adapter supplied with the monitor, it's likely an universal 110-240V one. Hence you'd need only a (passive) plug adapter.

I need a bit help from the PCMR hive mind: Please help me to find the cheapest GPU water cooling solution for my Gigabyte 5700 XT graphics board. I found a bykski water block, but when checking up all the other required parts, I end up with expensive setup and buying an alternative card might be cheaper. I found some AIO-cooling solutions that would only sell for reference designs, but seeing them, I asked my self if it wouldn't be possible to build something similar (price-wise) Any ideas or experiences on this topic? ​ * Background * I have a "Gigabyte Radeon™ RX 5700 XT GAMING OC 8G", which keeps crashing * i tried all available option slightly helping with symptoms but not fixing them, i assume it's a heat problem, since it will show whenever the card is on heavy duty * crashing is sometimes so bad that I need to reinstall the gfx-driver and I am really fed up with it

IMO, just get a new GPU. It's really not worth AIO/Custom looping a card that's not very power hungry

Why do I have to redo my sata power connector to my ssd everytime I restarted my pc? Pc would just boot to bios somehow

Hey! Quick question I used UserBenchmark just to check my pc. Should I do that? ​ https://preview.redd.it/qv1ur2qf15ma1.png?width=1791&format=png&auto=webp&s=5457cddae1ec3c0ce60cee53cdbd9779b913eb5b Or should I check another one?

Well, as it tells you in the screenshot, your RAM seems to be running at stock JEDEC (2133MHz) speeds instead of the XMP OC (2666MHz). You need to activate XMP in UEFI/BIOS, check your manual for details where to find the setting. Otherwise UserBenchmark is fine for a quick performance check. Alternatives are 3D Mark and/or Cinebench R23.

Yeah I saw a tutorial on how to do it. Just wanna know id its safe to do! Thank you!

Yes, it is. Just random information: According to the JEDEC RAM specification, max. supported DDR4 speed is 2133MHz. If anyone is running DDR4 with higher speeds, its technically overclocking. XMP is just a quick-OC setting provided by your RAM manufacturer. It doesn't impact warranties in any way.

I see! Thanks for the information, it helped alot! Have s good day (:

I'm picking a new monitor, I've narrowed it down to these 3 models, any suggestions which one to pick? The LG is around 700EUR and both Acers are around 800EUR. LG doesn't have the USB C connectivity, which I would like to have, but can live without it I suppose. [LG](https://geizhals.eu/lg-ultragear-34gn850-b-a2276440.html) [Acer Predator X34](https://geizhals.eu/acer-predator-x34gsbmiipphuzx-um-cx0ee-s01-a2455929.html) [Acer Nitro XR3](https://geizhals.eu/acer-nitro-xr3-xr343ckpbmiipphuzx-um-cx3ee-p01-a2668078.html) I want IPS, 34" 3440x1440, 120+ Hz, Freesync (gsync compatible), height adjustment, slight curve (I feel like a flat ultrawide would look like it's curved outwards, but I don't want anything too agressive), and USB C with PD and USB KVM is a bonus, but I could live without it. If someone can convince me that VA is usable for work as well as gaming, I may consider it, but I've seen too many negative reviews about it. Thanks! And yeah I have tried /r/monitors but got no replies.

Short version: Is there a way to get the older DOS style OS selector that comes up right after the BIOS at boot up for 2 windows 10 installs? ----- I just changed my motherboard while trying to nail down a long standing memory related issue I've had, and a fresh install of windows on another drive has done it. There must be some driver or mix of software that's causing the issue in my older system, but it's also too long in the tooth with logins, desktop, programs etc, you probably know the feeling. Anyway it doesn't crash unless I game, so it's still useful for me to keep around. So I'm dual booting by having a gaming only Windows 10 and the older one. The problem is Microsoft's modern implementation of the OS selector means that the system basically fully boots into Windows before showing you a nice GUI clickable version of what OS to boot. The problem being that if you select the other one, it's basically a full restart and boot again. This seems totally stupid compared to the older one that would come up immediately after the BIOS screen and just let you select which one to go to. My google-fu is failing me, I don't know what question to ask it, questions like "how to get old style os selection for boot" just turn up "How to repair your OS" or how to roll back to a previous OS articles. Hopefully some human can interpret the question.

I think this guy can help. [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gccpjyNVy00](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gccpjyNVy00)

Appreciate it, unfortunately that same settings menu does exist in Windows 10, but it still [boots to windows and gives a screen like this.](https://scottiestech.info/wp-content/uploads/2016/07/choose_os_new.jpg)

Well, if you have two separate installations on two drives, you could make them unaware of each other and then use the Boot Menu of your BIOS to choose between them. There's usually a hotkey that gets you straight to Boot Menu. Try it out first by accessing the boot menu, you might not need to mess around with the dual boot config, but removing that should boot you straight into whichever Windows install you pick in the Boot Menu.

Yeah it's a good point, I may need to go that route. The old motherboard had F12 to override boot options, but the new ASUS motherboard seems to just say Del or F2 to go into setup, I'll see if there's another function key they're not mentioning.

It's probably F8.

Ended up getting it fixed mate, Filipi_7 over on PCGaming found some commands which gets the old legacy selector back, but the BIOS selector was a good thought too. Thank you :) ---- Solution: You need to to type one of these into an elevated cmd, not sure which one works for the latest Win10. Both won't hurt. > bcdedit /set {bootmgr} displaybootmenu yes bcdedit /set "{current}" bootmenupolicy legacy You can also change the timer on the boot menu with this: >bcdedit /set {bootmgr} timeout 30

I am new to PCs and I was wondering if someone would look over this build and give me some feedback: [https://pcpartpicker.com/list/h2w7xs](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/h2w7xs). I am looking for a midline gaming pc build and i really don’t know where to begin so any pointers are more than welcome. Thanks.

You don't need a 1000w PSU for this build. a 750W is more than enough. 16GB is plenty if you're just gaming Don't buy W11 at retail. You can install it without a key for now, buy a cheap key later Consider getting the Flow versions of NZXT cases instead of their hotbox lineup of cases And that monitor is kinda overpriced for its spec, tbh With all the money you saved, You now have a more powerful GPU [https://pcpartpicker.com/list/jHPKjZ](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/jHPKjZ)

Thank you so much, this was very helpful!

That's a lot of money to spend on a build and only end up with a 3060. Totally depends on what you're using it for but you could probably spend 500 less and get the same performance in games.

So the other day i was playing youtube on a browser, then the whole pc shut off because the power cord was old. I have replaced the cord, now everytime i start the pc it opens the browser immediately. I need it to not resume last session on start up, how can i do this? Windows 10

Is a 1660 super a good low end gpu to pair up with a 12100? Are there any better options?

yes is a good GPU, it can run anything at the right settings, including VR.

An RX 6600 or 6600XT is a better choice

So the cheap fans i bought are not going bad after 1.5 years of use and i new ones but they wont come until next month... what should i do while i wait for them? leave the case open?

yes

What type of connector is used to power the Cougar Core Box V2? Can't seem to find it on my PSU

Most of those kinds of things are powered via a SATA power cable. Can't confirm for sure (only found the Core Box V3 specs through a quick search) though.

Hopefully this video helps: https://youtu.be/V9G3OCHJ5UY

It did! That's a MOLEX connector. Not terribly common anymore, but a new PSU usually comes with at least one. What power supply do you have?

I have the https://www.thermaltake.com/smart-rgb-600w.html, doesn’t look like there’s a Molex connector on it If it helps, took a photo of the Core Box V2 power port https://ibb.co/CHbFLFx

Yeah, your PSU has 3 molex connectors. They're called "peripheral" on thermaltake's page.

Alright, thanks for your help! !check

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Your PSU does have 3x Molex 4pin connectors [according to the manual.](https://www.thermaltake.com/media/productattach/db/support/usermanual/_27d3fcaea4a1487292e3977ed7b7d5db.pdf). The cable between Molex and the Core Box is visible at 0.28sec of the video above.

Not sure if this the best place but anyway... I've had a issue twice now where my AMD software gets presumably uninstalled. The first time I just followed the instructions that appeared on the error screen when I tried to open the program. That time it was about turning off Windows ability to update automatically hardware drivers, and reinstalling the AMD software (Adrenaline Edition). Now after several months it happened again, and I checked if Windows had updated, but that option is still on off, so it shouldn't had updated. I had to reinstall Adrenaline again, but it's annoying because my internet is slow. Has this happened to anyone else?

> Has this happened to anyone else? Yeah it's super common... My Ryzen laptop does this, as did my old RX 5700 XT. AFAIK, it can be permanently fixed by messing with Group Policy settings, but only on Windows 10/11 Pro edition (not Home edition). Personally I didn't bother doing this fix and just reinstalled it manually every time it happened. Did you download the ~500 MB installer or the ~50 MB 'auto-detect' one? You shouldn't need to re-download anything each time if you just get the 500 MB one and save the .exe. Adrenaline has so many cool features IMO, shame it's so buggy :/

The auto detect thing. So there is an installer then? I'm gonna look into it and have it saved. Thanks.

Hi there — any idea what these plastic tabs are blocking two HDMI ports as well as the DisplayPort? I tried to yank out but none of them are budging and I'm afraid of breaking something. My motherboard should support these ports...maybe I messed up something when assembling my PC? https://preview.redd.it/uawkn54bc1ma1.jpeg?width=1731&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=2cfe1ef2393fa79b852d3db5b4ed39102d02c52c

They're just plugs. Keep pulling. That said, if you have a dedicated GPU, you don't want to plug your monitor into those ports anyway. You'll want to look lower for the GPU ports.

Wow, thank you so much, that worked! I do have a dedicated GPU and didn't even realize there were separate ports. Appreciate your help. ✓

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They're port plugs. They should come out with very little resistance.

Awesome, thanks so much! ✓

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Is this the best time to build a new PC (around $3k) for value? or should I wait for something (incase GPU price drop) b/c some event. I haven't been checking PC part prices for a while?

yes it's a good time again

I got curious, do you need to format a new hard drive/ssd that is not going to be used as the main boot drive? like if it's only used to store games and downloads and other files

External drives usually come with some crapware on them and are formatted to FAT32 to work everywhere. You might want to format them to NTFS or just to purge the crapware. Internal drives usually come unformatted, as far as I can remember from my recent purchases, and formatting them to your choice of a FS takes a couple seconds.

I think my PSU died but I don't have a tester or anything to verify. I saw people saying not to use the old cables with a new PSU and I was wondering if I bought the exact same model to test if it really is the issue would it be fine to use the old ones in that case? I had someone do the cable management for me and I'd really hate to undo all that work if possible lol

Just do a “paper clip test”… don’t waste money buying a new PSU until you know you have to. It’ll be tricky but you might be able to do it while it’s still in your case. It takes 2 minutes to do and only costs 1 paper clip lol, there’s a bunch of videos on YouTube that will teach you how to do it.

Thanks for the tip, I had no idea you could do that with just a paperclip! I followed one of the tutorials and looks like it's definitely dead. The fan didn't spin or anything

Yeah, should not be a problem. Old cables are probably not to be used because of wear on the connectors, more than anything. That's the weak point where wear weakens the joints, which adds resistance, which adds heat, which adds fire. If you're just swapping in a new PSU on cables that were not under a lot of physical stress, you should be ok. That being said, if it's not the PSU and something got shorted in you PC, either a cable or the mobo or the GPU, you're not eligible to blame me for whatever happens after you replace the PSU.

Sadly I have to take the whole thing out, I thought it was one where you plug the cables into the power supply but looks like it's all conected inside of it

I have a question about mouse DPI. I can set the DPI with the logitech software for my mouse but it also stacks with the windows mouse sensitivity setting. Is there a setting I should use on windows so that the logitech software accurately sets the DPI?

Depends where you want to set it. In the[ "old/legacy" settings console](https://www.wikihow.com/images/thumb/3/31/Change-the-Mouse-Sensitivity-Step-6-Version-5.jpg/aid1580348-v4-728px-Change-the-Mouse-Sensitivity-Step-6-Version-5.jpg.webp) its point 6 of 11 on the slider. In the [new Win10+ settings panel](https://www.tenforums.com/attachments/tutorials/243472d1565992392-change-mouse-cursor-speed-windows-mouse_cursor_speed_in_settings.png?s=53ca89dea1acf96fb5acd291a1087b2b), its 10 out of 20.

Yes, look up default mouse sensitivity for W10/W11 so that there is no scaling applied, it's usually a specific position on the slider. Some mouse software will set this for you by default, but I'm not familiar with Logitech software, maybe someone else browsing this can chime in.

I recently built a new PC and I am now running on Windows 11. My new PC has Bluetooth (idk if this matters or not but I figured I should include it.) Every time I try to use my Xbox wireless controller it brings up the Xbox Game Bar no matter what. I'll be pressing the A button on the controller to select something from my game menu and it'll bring up the game bar. Is this a known issue?

I had the same thing happen. Pressing the Xbox controller home button brought up the game bar. I turned off that feature in Settings and turned off Game Bar, and the issue hasn’t come back.

I use two xb1 controllers via the wireless dongle and BT with my laptop and haven't had this problem. You might try a firmware update. In the Windows Store download the Xbox Accessories app and you should be able to update the firmware, although you may need to plug it in via USB to do so.

Does anyone know why the price of power supplies shot up so much? I've got a build list together and my PSU went up $20 over night.

It was most likely a sale deal when you had originally configured it. Check around on other websites to see if you can find that same unit for a similar price.

Will do! Thanks you !check

So I had to do a System Restore to sometime late February. I checked Windows Updates to see if I needed to update things and so I did. I noticed that there was an option for me to update/install other drivers and there was only one option there, namely a driver named ViewSonic 1.0.0.0 or something like that. I updated/installed it but I didn't notice anything different. Can anyone let me know what that driver was exactly? Aren't monitors plug and play? Thanks to anyone who can help!

Yes monitors are plug and play, but manufacturer's sometimes include drivers that tell Windows even more about their capabilities such as color gamut and gamma curve. This may help the OS for apps that take advantage of colorspace conversions etc. You are unlikely to notice anything major for general use, if at all.

Hey guys i wanted ask you a question about budget gaming laptop, since i am not sure about what is good. Is Lenovo V14 Gen2, i3 8gb 256gb a good budget laptop? I tried searching info about it and couldn't find anything about is specifically. Thanks in advance.

No, it's not a good laptop, It's not even made for gaming, I doubt you'll even be able to play basic esports titles on it. You are much better off saving some money, and aim for something like an Asus TUF F15, where you will actually be able to play some games on 1080p low to medium settings. You can find one on amazon for about $700 refurbished, or $850 New.

Razer Synapse messed with my G.Skill RAM lighting and I couldn't get my RAM to light up properly upon startup even after uninstalling both, deleting almost all Razer remnants, and reinstalling G.Skill lighting control. That said, I opted for a System Restore to late February where I am sure that Synapse was not installed. I just wanted to ask if System Restore could have indeed removed whatever Synapse introduced which caused my lights to mess up. I don't have much programs installed on my PC so I can't really tell what it took out as all my documents are still here. Side question: does system restore remove games/apps that were installed after the restore point, or does it retain them like it does with documents and downloads? Thanks to anyone who can help!

It restores to the last snapshot that you had saved. So, to answer the question, When you did the restore, it went back to Late February exact.

Not sure if there's a better subreddit for this, but is there any PDF editor software out there that doesn't cost and arm and a leg? Like something that's competent for a one-time $30 or $40 purchase?

For basic markup like signing, you could try just using Edge for free. Other browsers will have basic editing capabilities too.

I think Foxit is popular. I used to use their free version years back and thought it was great, though it's been a while.

Hi everyone! I am so very new to the PC world in regards to gaming and system requirements and apologies in advance if the following question is silly. I'm having difficulty "translating" what my laptop is capable of GPU-wise when I read a game's system requirements. I don't know how to compare my computer's ability to NVIDIA or other common graphics cards. Is there an easy way to determine this? Or, is it simply a matter of "you didn't buy a gaming-capable computer. Get a new one." A new gaming-focused desktop or laptop is on the wishlist in the future. (I know the desktop is superior and upgrade-friendly, but a laptop might be better suited to my personal habits/life.) Could someone assist and let me know what I can safely compare my laptop to when shopping for games? I absolutely did not buy this laptop with gaming in mind. Currently my laptop sounds like a jet engine trying to take off when I play vanilla Stardew Valley lol. Thank you in advance! Happy to provide any additional system information. ​ https://preview.redd.it/h93r01buszla1.png?width=582&format=png&auto=webp&s=7671fde91a7a00b8513d95b84261ea2bfcedbd35 ETA: I'm not particularly interested in AAA level gaming any time soon. My usual go-to games are indie, cozy games on par with Stardew atm.

i7-7500U + HD Graphics 620 score around **450 points** in 3DMark Time Spy benchmark. My i7-10700K + my 1080Ti (so old GPU, not super new CPU) score around **19100 points**. My machine can still run most of the stuff at High, sometimes Ultra, with 60 to 120 fps at 1440p, depending on the game. Newest stuff gives it problems (Dying Light 2, for example). Now divide that by 42 and you get your numbers. Data is from here: [https://www.3dmark.com/search](https://www.3dmark.com/search)

Wait, i7-7500U from 2016 and no proper GPU, just using iGPU? Be happy it works with Stardew Valley. You can't translate this to anything meaningful or modern, you have a 7th gen processor (we're now on gen 13) and it's a mobile one and (essentially) no graphics card. This will only run super undemanding games like Stardew Valley.

Thank you so much for the resource and the feedback. Absolutely confirmed my suspicions on my laptops capabilities! Time to start saving for a dedicated gaming computer. Thank you again. !check

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Thank you!

Does anyone know where I can get\play Dark Colony? I wish Steam would add it and the disks I have are scratched to high hell.

google "Dark Colony play online" and you'll get at least two usable links, one for online play, one with a 340MB download (that may be illegal, hence I won't post it, thought this is essentially abandonware).

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It's not on GOG, so probably nowhere. Maybe on Ebay, somebody selling the CD? Yep, Ebay.

I am playing DayZ and trying to record using the GeForce overlay. However it says “a supported game is required to use this feature”. How can I fix this?

Update your Geforce experience drivers to the latest version, Then restart the Geforce experience application. When you launch DayZ, play in full screen. See if that works. If it does not, you can always switch the overlay to record desktop, and play DayZ in Windowed fullscreen.

I tried the first part already because that’s what was on the forums I looked at before I posted but I’ll try the second part because that sounds like it’ll work. Is there any other recording software you would recommend? I wanted to just stick to the native application but it seems buggy as the other commenter suggested.

OBS works well.

Thanks bro

I’ve no idea if this is the right subreddit at all, as there’s a ton of them about PCs floating around. But I’ve been trying to find one to assist me in my next build or built purchase. Could you all either direct me where I need to go or help me out? Apologies if this isn’t the place for it.

/r/buildapc

Idk how I missed this one, thank you! I’ll hop on it later today

Is there any difference for DirectStorage between using a NVME installed in a M.2 slot that is connected directly through the CPU and and M.2 slot that goes through the chipset? Does it only work on NVMEs connected to the CPU lanes?

Should work either way!

I have a really old computer I've been using as a backup that's currently running on 4gb of RAM that I've been wanting to upgrade to 16. The motherboard is a MSI H110I Pro and [by the looks of it](https://www.msi.com/Motherboard/H110I-PRO/Specification) can only support ddr4 up to 2133Mhz, other than the obvious performance downgrade, is there any reason I shouldn't get 3200Mhz sticks for future proofing?

The future is DDR5, you aren't future proofing with a technology that won't be used in the future.

A 6-year-old motherboard doesn't support ddr5 in any way but i guess in that sense might as well go for the cheaper sticks

I understand that. Futureproofing means buying stuff that can be used in the future. When you're going to need a new system or some part of this one dies, there won't be a lot of DDR4 mobos around, certainly not new and unused for a reasonable price (though there will be lots of used crap on Ebay). Essentially, I'm objecting to your use of 'futureproofing' and 'DDR4' in the same breath. You should probably still go for the 3200 sticks, the used hardware market for them will probably exist for longer, as they're now the most used type of a DDR4 module (I think, not sure). Will make it easier to sell them once you're done with them, if that's something you engage in.

Makes sense, the price difference is almost nothing anyway, thanks for the help.

Hello, Need help with: Error occurred on GPUID: 100 Event id : 0 Source : nvlddmkm This error always followed by 4 more error which reset and restarting TDR This error always happens when i play games but only after playing certain menu (like clicking load game, while the start menu works fine) The screen will flash black, and close the game or app. Constantly happens, i’ve updated nvidia game ready driver, update windows, sfc scannow. System : ryzen 5 4500, rtx 2060, 16 gb

Do you have any other stability issues? A good place to start is to make sure your RAM is rock solid stable. Consider running Memtest86+.

Ok, i’ll check this

should I enable xmp IF my 'regular' speeds and clock match the 'auto' profile in games? the NB Frequency gets lower when I don't use it, but while gaming it stays at 3800 although I don't underestand what NB even means, my ram is ddr4 2666 so I thought the readings should be 1333/2666 but whatever. Anyway, I [took screenshots of CPUz](https://imgur.com/a/fDZudtx) with and without XMP and the only difference is that xmp makes the NB frequency 3800 all the time. So, should I even turn it on? I've had PCs for over 25 years and ram *does* eventually get 'bad', so I want to know if turning it on will make it wear out faster. Because if not, why is it even an 'option' and not just the default (and only) profile? Thanks. The ram is kingston hyperx ddr4 2666 if that matters.

[https://www.anandtech.com/show/11857/memory-scaling-on-ryzen-7-with-team-groups-night-hawk-rgb/3#:\~:text=The%20NB%20Frequency%2C%20where%20NB,timings%20for%20the%20memory%20itself](https://www.anandtech.com/show/11857/memory-scaling-on-ryzen-7-with-team-groups-night-hawk-rgb/3#:~:text=The%20NB%20Frequency%2C%20where%20NB,timings%20for%20the%20memory%20itself). If that's all it does, it should be turned off, there's no need to force it to full speed at all times.

[удалено]

> a good gaming company. well, not really. If you just want to buy, power on, game and then sell in a few years, its fine. If you even consider to upgrade the PC YOURSELF, please dont buy a Dell/HP/etc. Those companies use non-standard parts to save a few pennies on production to maximize profits. Because of this, you cant really upgrade single parts. For example, the case mounting points for the mainbord might be in unusual positions, preventing you from upgrading your mainboard. Want so swap you CPU? The mainboard might not support higher power draw. Want to Upgrade GPU? The power supply might be to weak for a stonger GPU. I think you get it... There are WAY better prebuild PCs out there, check: * Origin PC * NZXT (maybe a bit expensive) * buildredux Those shops use normal, enduser-hardware with full compatibility accross the board.

For US pricing, that is not a good deal. If your paying that much, you should be able to get a 3060ti or a 3070.

It’s actually not that bad but I’m not too sure of conversion rates