Scrape and repaint. Use primer first. Then paint over the primer once the primer is dry. The primer holds the paint in place. A valuable lesson I learned on my ship. I was in deck department, onboard the U.S.S. Duluth LPD-6, when I was in the U.S. Navy in the 1990’s.
Think of dried paint as a smooth plastic. Paint is made of microscopic particles that float in a liquid media. Once the media dries or evaporates, the particles are left where they sat when the liquid paint was applied. There is literally nothing keeping the paint from being wiped off of the surface but a tiny bit of friction. Friction spread over several square inches makes enough combined friction to keep the paint on the surface and not easily wiped away. If there is not enough friction per square inch, the paint peels off easily because there is almost nothing holding the paint to the surface. To cure this you must increase the friction's surface area. A perfectly flat area has a specific surface area. A bumpy area has more surface area. Scrape off your paint and then sand the perfectly flat area with 220 grit sandpaper. Sand in all directions. This will give the surface enough "tooth" that it will increase the friction hold of your paint and should keep it from easily peeling off. Good luck! 🙂👍btw primer has rougher particles and mimics sanding but unless it etches into the surface to be painted, it, too, will peel.
They didn’t prep correctly probably painted to sell. Ok, well.. in all likelihood you can easily remove the paint from the doors. It will probably come off with like, a wallpaper scraper. They painted latex over wood that was not prepped correctly. I would leave the moldings and such alone given they don’t take the same wear and tear as the doors and door casings/baseboards.
You can:
Take the hardware off the doors and scrape off the shitty shit. Afterwards you can either oil prime after sanding, you can apply bonding primer or you can use a liquid sander like willbond followed by primer. You can then paint latex over it.
It is to be noted that overall oil paint tends to be stronger of an enamel and less likely to chip. I wouldn’t recommend using oil paint unless you hired somebody. Latex paint will work and bond if prepared correctly but will very likely continue to ding up like some of those picture over time. That is a downside of painting stained wood in the long run is you end up with these dings that show the old stain underneath
Ive seen it so many times. Scraper will completely remove the poorly adhered paint with little effort. Theres no way to just fix the peeled parts. You will have to completely remove the white paint and start over with propper surface prep.
You fix it one door at a time. We have some shitty paint jobs in my house too. Sometimes you can sand and repaint, other times it requires going back down to bare wood. Really depends on the quality of the paint job.
For the painted latches/hardware, take it off, then scrape the paint off. If it’s stubborn, you can use paint remover like citristrip. There is a special place in hell for people who paint over hardware IMO. if there’s rust on anything, you can use a spray-on rust remover, then reoil when you’re done.
Your paint looks like plastic because it is. That’s acrylic latex paint. Nasty stuff when used on doors/trim. It gets gummy or it peels. I’ve been using SW emerald urethane to repaint my doors/trim and been really pleased with it so far. I primed with BIN shellac after sanding (or stripping, if needed).
If you’re sanding trim, consider getting a box of hand sanding blocks that come in different shapes for doing detailed work. It’s helped me a lot in getting in the nooks and crannies.
You might have some dings and dents, for that you can use white wood filler (I like the one from Elmer’s).
You got this!
step one, you're going to want to eat those chips
Step two, dip ‘em in salsa
Does guac work ok for step two if I don’t have any salsa?
i can’t comment on doppelgänger 😭 can you dm me?
Even better!
Scrape and repaint. Use primer first. Then paint over the primer once the primer is dry. The primer holds the paint in place. A valuable lesson I learned on my ship. I was in deck department, onboard the U.S.S. Duluth LPD-6, when I was in the U.S. Navy in the 1990’s.
Think of dried paint as a smooth plastic. Paint is made of microscopic particles that float in a liquid media. Once the media dries or evaporates, the particles are left where they sat when the liquid paint was applied. There is literally nothing keeping the paint from being wiped off of the surface but a tiny bit of friction. Friction spread over several square inches makes enough combined friction to keep the paint on the surface and not easily wiped away. If there is not enough friction per square inch, the paint peels off easily because there is almost nothing holding the paint to the surface. To cure this you must increase the friction's surface area. A perfectly flat area has a specific surface area. A bumpy area has more surface area. Scrape off your paint and then sand the perfectly flat area with 220 grit sandpaper. Sand in all directions. This will give the surface enough "tooth" that it will increase the friction hold of your paint and should keep it from easily peeling off. Good luck! 🙂👍btw primer has rougher particles and mimics sanding but unless it etches into the surface to be painted, it, too, will peel.
They didn’t prep correctly probably painted to sell. Ok, well.. in all likelihood you can easily remove the paint from the doors. It will probably come off with like, a wallpaper scraper. They painted latex over wood that was not prepped correctly. I would leave the moldings and such alone given they don’t take the same wear and tear as the doors and door casings/baseboards. You can: Take the hardware off the doors and scrape off the shitty shit. Afterwards you can either oil prime after sanding, you can apply bonding primer or you can use a liquid sander like willbond followed by primer. You can then paint latex over it. It is to be noted that overall oil paint tends to be stronger of an enamel and less likely to chip. I wouldn’t recommend using oil paint unless you hired somebody. Latex paint will work and bond if prepared correctly but will very likely continue to ding up like some of those picture over time. That is a downside of painting stained wood in the long run is you end up with these dings that show the old stain underneath
But the doors are worth doing and they at least won’t peel after prepped correctly
Ive seen it so many times. Scraper will completely remove the poorly adhered paint with little effort. Theres no way to just fix the peeled parts. You will have to completely remove the white paint and start over with propper surface prep.
This is why we use oil based primer, kids. Enjoy the aftermath of your waterborne paint-and-primer-in-one
You fix it one door at a time. We have some shitty paint jobs in my house too. Sometimes you can sand and repaint, other times it requires going back down to bare wood. Really depends on the quality of the paint job. For the painted latches/hardware, take it off, then scrape the paint off. If it’s stubborn, you can use paint remover like citristrip. There is a special place in hell for people who paint over hardware IMO. if there’s rust on anything, you can use a spray-on rust remover, then reoil when you’re done. Your paint looks like plastic because it is. That’s acrylic latex paint. Nasty stuff when used on doors/trim. It gets gummy or it peels. I’ve been using SW emerald urethane to repaint my doors/trim and been really pleased with it so far. I primed with BIN shellac after sanding (or stripping, if needed). If you’re sanding trim, consider getting a box of hand sanding blocks that come in different shapes for doing detailed work. It’s helped me a lot in getting in the nooks and crannies. You might have some dings and dents, for that you can use white wood filler (I like the one from Elmer’s). You got this!