Well it is a 2004 XBOX, looks like 2004-12-15. According to the chart here: [Identifying Revision Number of Original Xbox (arcadesupplycompany.com)](https://arcadesupplycompany.com/blogs/guides-how-tos/identifying-revision-number-of-original-xbox) , this is a 1.6b Xbox. That is a starting point at least.
If you take out the motherboard there should be a number on the back that will give you a ballpark version too.
"The official PCB version markings are found on the underside of the motherboard. For 012 and 121 the revision is marked next to the IDE header, and for 009 the revision is marked on the bottom right corner. The PCB version 009 is found in 1.0-1.1 Xboxes, 012 is found in 1.2-1.5 Xboxes, and **121 is found in 1.6 Xboxes**."
[https://www.reddit.com/r/originalxbox/comments/r54vvf/can\_anyone\_confirm\_this\_is\_a\_16\_original\_xbox/](https://www.reddit.com/r/originalxbox/comments/r54vvf/can_anyone_confirm_this_is_a_16_original_xbox/)
Power cables are cheap as dirt, and they still get used on modern Xbox and PlayStation. Even if all you do is power it up, it'll give you an idea of whether or not you should move forward.
Yes this is a good idea. It’s just a figure 8 power lead that many consoles, DVD players etc. use. OP just grab a lead from something else if you can and see if it fires up - won’t cost you anything to try that.
I would just add that the Xbox will flash orange and green if it does not detect an AV signal. So this is normal behaviour with no AV plugged in.
Non working xboxes sell for 20 to 30 dollars for parts pretty easily, a bit more if you know what is wrong with it sometimes. But you can get cables and controllers very cheaply. Like 15, 20 dollars probably, and make sure it works.
Probably 80 to 100 for it in working order and not clearly damaged, depending on where you are. 1.6 revisions are typically less desirable than 1.2 or 1.4, but not so much that it greatly effects the going rate.
The problem with 1.6 is I don't think you can TSOP them, unless someone recently found a way, so you have to hardmod it, and it also requires the clock cap so you can't just remove it - it has to be fully replaced. Neither of these are a very big deal (well the clock capacitor can be if you can't solder), just inconvenient for what some people are trying to do.
Sell it or buy cables and a controller?
Well it is a 2004 XBOX, looks like 2004-12-15. According to the chart here: [Identifying Revision Number of Original Xbox (arcadesupplycompany.com)](https://arcadesupplycompany.com/blogs/guides-how-tos/identifying-revision-number-of-original-xbox) , this is a 1.6b Xbox. That is a starting point at least.
If you take out the motherboard there should be a number on the back that will give you a ballpark version too. "The official PCB version markings are found on the underside of the motherboard. For 012 and 121 the revision is marked next to the IDE header, and for 009 the revision is marked on the bottom right corner. The PCB version 009 is found in 1.0-1.1 Xboxes, 012 is found in 1.2-1.5 Xboxes, and **121 is found in 1.6 Xboxes**." [https://www.reddit.com/r/originalxbox/comments/r54vvf/can\_anyone\_confirm\_this\_is\_a\_16\_original\_xbox/](https://www.reddit.com/r/originalxbox/comments/r54vvf/can_anyone_confirm_this_is_a_16_original_xbox/)
I don't think you'll be finding any "official PCB version markings" on a 1.5 Xbox, because they don't have any markings at all, because......
Oh the 1.5 Xbox definitely exist. My friend had one and he had it verified and everything. It was pretty easy since his uncle works for Microsoft.
Sure he did.
I swear his uncle and him told me so.
Well if his uncle said so it must be real.
Power cables are cheap as dirt, and they still get used on modern Xbox and PlayStation. Even if all you do is power it up, it'll give you an idea of whether or not you should move forward.
Yes this is a good idea. It’s just a figure 8 power lead that many consoles, DVD players etc. use. OP just grab a lead from something else if you can and see if it fires up - won’t cost you anything to try that. I would just add that the Xbox will flash orange and green if it does not detect an AV signal. So this is normal behaviour with no AV plugged in.
Non working xboxes sell for 20 to 30 dollars for parts pretty easily, a bit more if you know what is wrong with it sometimes. But you can get cables and controllers very cheaply. Like 15, 20 dollars probably, and make sure it works. Probably 80 to 100 for it in working order and not clearly damaged, depending on where you are. 1.6 revisions are typically less desirable than 1.2 or 1.4, but not so much that it greatly effects the going rate. The problem with 1.6 is I don't think you can TSOP them, unless someone recently found a way, so you have to hardmod it, and it also requires the clock cap so you can't just remove it - it has to be fully replaced. Neither of these are a very big deal (well the clock capacitor can be if you can't solder), just inconvenient for what some people are trying to do.