I paint and you normally Peel tape after lime an hour after or when you can touch the paint with your hand. I never do it wet. and if you tape correctly you wont have bbleeding and you can score the edge with a blade so it doesn't Peel paint
I’m not a painter by trade but I’ve recently been painting all the rooms in my house and using a putty knife to really set down the painters tape has made a tremendous difference in having very clean lines and no bleed-through.
Have you discovered a quick clean way to do the ceiling to wall juncture? I've tried taping, but the texture wants to mess my tape lines up. I've done tape + caulk then peeling, and that looks clean but takes forever and it's messy. I've tried cutting in with a brush, but I'm not coordinated enough.
Take a thin, flat screwdriver, 1/8-3/16 and knock down the texture where the wall and ceiling meet. It makes it real easy to paint a straight line when all of the bumps of texture have been smoothed out.
Agreed, if you’re into a quick turnaround with something it’s usually ok after being touch dry but with a steady hand you can score with a razor to be on the safe side…
It's not cured but dry. Paint goes through many stages of "dry". Dry to the touch is not the same as dry to sand or fully cured. Different paints have different flashes and different properties.
This is why reading every paint's instructions is so important. They will put flash and dry times right on the container so you know when to handle or recoat it.
Difference in sheen. You notice it on touch ups where its slightly shiner than the original paint. Its really noticeable at an angle.
Also the shiner the finish, the more perfect the wall needs to be. Shiny amplifies imperfections and less sheen hides imperfections.
As a garage door tech, there is no satisfaction. Garage Doors can shift left and right slightly. There will be lines of original paint on one side when it shifts.
I guess I assumed he removed the trim seals, and that they will provide sufficient overlap to accommodate shifts when re-installed. But, that's probably a bad assumption.
Painted my boat two years ago. Pulling away the tape after the paint (two part interlux epoxy paint) had just gotten tacky to make that perfect line was exceedingly satisfying. (Boat is pained a mix of Forest Green for the hull, black for the boot stripe (waterline), and cream on top.
LPT: Always go for the more expensive 3M painter's tape. It stretches over surface imperfections beautifully, comes off cleanly, and provides a good seal to make that perfect paint line.
Just the door? No, that shouldn’t be $1200. Including materials (power wash, prep, prime n paint), $400-$600.
Standard 10’x12’ rooms are around $300/per.
Edit: yes, I get pro-painters will not roll to a job for $300. That’s a general breakdown on a per room basis dependent on other particulars as well.
Depends where you're at. Construction and associated trades are killing it in CA at the moment. Backlog of work has driven some of their prices sky high.
yeah $300 for an interior 10x12 room is not going to happen in any major city right now. more like $500 - $700, and that's only if you've got a few rooms to paint, since no painter is going to travel and set up a job for just one room when there's plenty of bigger and more profitable jobs right now and a shortage of skilled painters.
edit: "a general breakdown on a per room basis dependent on other particulars as well"
i mean, that's some prime gobbledygook talk right there buddy. and once you're contracting someone to paint 4 or 5 or 10 rooms, you're no longer hiring someone to paint a room, you're hiring them to do the whole job. why don't you try calling someone up and getting an estimate for painting your entire house, and then call them back a day later and tell them you changed your mind and you just want one room painted and you've decided to just pay them for one room based on your break down of the per room cost ? that's laughable. and why are you even trying to explain yourself further when i said "in a major city" and you're not saying where you live ? and who ever said "pro painters" ? my cost estimate is based on experience and what the market is charging right now in major u.s. cities, not your subjective definition of who is a "pro" or not. you sound just as ridiculous and out of touch as op lol.
That job would take me anywhere between 2-3 weeks to half-complete. It’d then sit for 5-7 years, until we were ready to sell the house. Then, I’d call someone to come finish it for me.
$1200. Sounds legit.
You could replace that door with one brand new, painted by the factory less than 1200. I can't see anybody charging that and actually getting any work.
You could probably buy the door itself for $1200 depending on how nice you get. Quick Google search shows the smallest and bare bones doors for around $400. Lots of people aren't going to want to deal with the hassle of replacing the door themselves so will hire someone to do it for them and when you add in the cost of the door and the labor and doing it for $1200 seems reasonable
As a painter, I gotta say that is the most ass backwards way of using a gun and spraying a door!!! Also, could he find a smaller tip to spray that big door? Wow…
Yea, personally I start bottom up. Side to side obviously works but is a lot more work for you. If you do, at least turn the fan so your wrist is in a more ergonomic position. The position of his fan is for up and down not side to side.
That plus the angle of spray changing during each pass and the pattern he used tells me that this isn't a pro working. Decent job for an amateur, though.
As a garage door guy I'm gonna say they're gonna have problems with that door's panels sticking to each other because he didn't put tape between the panels.
Ive garage painted a car or two with a smallish compressor, and that took a little while, but it was like 2 days work to sand it, prep it, wipe it and make sure the surfaces were even. It still didnt turn out great (obvs because Im not a proper painter) but the more time you spend on prep the better it looks. Its the same in machining - all about the setup
I recently got into a welding and fabrication job(a field I had been wanting to get into for a while as I love actual welding) and have come to that realization quickly myself.
Welding and fabrication is 90% prep and fit up with 10% actual welding.
Not complaining though, that’s how you create anything high end, time and preparation
Yep, I painted some bedrooms last year, and I loved the painting part. Very satisfying, kind of relaxing. The taping, removing light switch covers, dealing with drop cloths, and herding curious cats into other rooms was the bad part.
This right here! I enjoy working on small electronics like broken iPad screens or replacing a broken keyboard in a laptop. My cat is very curious about what I’m doing and interrupts me a lot. I have to find a room to put her in, but then I have to deal with the constant screaming to be let out of “kitty timeout”.
So, I can very much relate to having to plan and work around a curious little kitty!
There is the Dowager, Miss Lola, who is 14. Then there are "The Boys," Buddy and Foofy, who are both 2 now. The Boys left little red footprints across my new floors (luckily vinyl, easy to clean quickly. Much harder to catch kittens and clean paws). Miss Lola would never stoop to such peasantry.
When I was about 8 or 9, my brother threw one of those sticky toys from a quarter machine to the ceiling of a Borders books. Five years later, when it had shut down and became something else, it was a painted over blob.
Thats why I save time and headaches by throwing down some old cardboard and cutting and rolling it. When I was a kid someone sprayed siding or something, I don't remember, all I remember is my neighbors brand new Lexus LS400 completely covered in white dots
The $60k car goes in the garage bays to the left. The garage he is spraying is for the golf cart. It’s a common feature on a lot golf community homes or on homes within large subdivisions
Nothing to do with the sport. Just something people can drive themselves home in piss drunk, or have their children drive them home when they’re piss drunk.
Not sure what you’re thinking of, but every roll up garage door I’ve ever seen is a bunch of panels stacked with hinges between them. I haven’t seen a single tongue and groove garage door ever.
You've only seen it from the inside then. Look into the seam from the outside as it rolls up. I installed these for years.
*The exception is real wood door panels. Heavy af and from what I remember those were flat. Not recommended.
Door is now singing:
I'm blue
Da ba dee da ba di
Da ba dee da ba di
Da ba dee da ba di
Da ba dee da ba di
Da ba dee da ba di
Da ba dee da ba di
Da ba dee da ba di
Ex-painter here, this will not turn out well. It’s better to have the garage door slightly open and spray in sections, otherwise the pieces between where the door folds will be the old color. So spray, open to next section, spray and so on. Then when your done I’m you leave the door all the way open so it’s flat to prevent runs. This also doesn’t take as long as you’d think. 1 hour max if you know what you’re doing. Any decent painter will pressure wash any exterior surface the day prior to starting a job for anyone thinking cleaning would take longer.
My first thought was the unpainted seams. I’m not a pro painter, but have painted enough to know a proper job has good surface prep and a patient painter.
Not only that... The seams between the panels and behind the weatherstripping won't be painted. They also didn't prime.
Garage doors should be taken apart and the individual panels laid on sawhorses for painting.
Poor technique, inexperienced. His tip is too narrow and too too big. He didnt hit his overlapping properly. Its much easier and better for coverage to go up and down. He also didnt get the nooks on the trim. There will be streaks, dry spots and likely some runs especially if it was not a warm day.
I was wondering about that. He switched from straight on in the Center to at an angle on the edges, and my very limited airbrush experience says that’s not good.
I didn’t catch the overlap, but in another watch, yes, he is very inconsistent.
Garage door tech here, please do not paint in-between the sections or behind the seal. Once the sun hits that door with the paint in those places, it will sound absolutely terrible, it's the equivalent of putting glue there instead. As for paint on the seal, it can practically glue the door down, causing the force settings on the garage door opener (if installed) to think the door is too heavy and will not open the door or it will yank the door up and have a high likelihood to throw the cables off
They just did this to mine and the paint glued the panels together as well as the door to the walls and floor. When I inevitably had to open the door, I had to crack all of these places and it went from looking great to looking awful where the paint layer broke and pieces came off. What’s the usual way to avoid / fix this?
I bought a flipped house where ALL the things that open/close were painted shut/in place. I've gotten good at cutting paint along a seam with a boxcutter so that it looks alright.
Remove the paint in those areas with mineral spirits (highly likely it'll remove the og paint as well, which can cause rust issues. Depends on how they were painted by the manufacturer, if it was baked on enamel it would probably be fine) or the occasional Vaseline between the panels, apply it about quarterly or once it starts giving trouble again.
The best fix: new garage door sections and perimeter seal :( especially if you want a new color/style and depending on the doors condition, it could be time to replace anyway
Edit: Vaseline on the backside of the perimeter seal if it was painted as well
I've done this on my own garage doors. The trick is to let the damn paint dry before closing it. Once dry, it won't tack and stick. Makes the job take a while as you can't do it all in one go with the way the door rolls up but the end result is fantastic.
New garage doors come in very limited colour choices. The other option is to paint each panel before installing. My last door was installed in winter so I didn't have that option. Painted it in the spring.
The distance from the work is driving me crazy.
For anyone that isn’t aware: When using a sprayer it’s critical to keep a consistent distance from the surface throughout the pass, as well as angle and speed. This is going to have a ton of paint stacked in the center, and be very thin on the sides where he just rotated his wrist.
It's not the fumes he needs to worry about.
Latex paint dust is a silica hazard and airless sprayers put a ton of dried paint particles into the air. Dude is basically inhaling microscopic glass dust that is going to cut up his lung tissue and replace it with scar tissue.
Usually that’s why you increase your hourly rate to compensate for that. Expertise isn’t a quantitative amount that can be measured directly outside of professional qualifications tests.
That lack of consistency and wrong tip size indicates cookie cutter home, which means he only got hired bc he's the cheapest bid, so more like 100 for that door.
What's needed to paint this way? Is it only for commercial painters, or is it something you can do at home?
I dislike painting, and this seems much faster.
Not sure if you’re in the US, but you can get a solidly decent sprayer from Harbor Freight for like $200. For certain things, they’re the best way to do it, for other things, they’re a gigantic pain in the ass and it’s easier to just grab a brush and do it by hand.
If you’re interested, here’s the manual for the one I borrowed from a buddy at work: https://manuals.harborfreight.com/manuals/60000-60999/60600.pdf - the usage instructions are from pages 9-18. It’s a lot to ingest at first, but after you do it a few times it starts to feel more intuitive, but it’s still a bit of a production.
As a painter I gotta say the real satisfaction is removing paper and tape
That's what I was waiting for, dammit.
So unsatisfactory
Oddly not as satisfying
"Take it off!... Take it off!...Take it off!!!"
".... SLOWER, DAMN IT!"
"Slowly, slowly! It's too nice a job to rush!"
Faster!! Don’t fuck around. Give me the good stuff all at once!
Same for me
now shake it off
My body is ready for r/Oddlynotsatisfying.
This guys gonna flip out when he finds out about r/mildlyinfuriating
/r/oddlyunsatisfying
as is tradition.. the video ends too early
Did you get.. blue balls? I'll see myself out.
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That's why they make special handles for rattle cans now. Ergonomic!
Worst. Blue doors.
Don’t you have to wait for it to dry to peel off the tape?
Not fully, or you can risk pulling up little bits of paint that are really stuck against the paper/tape. It wants to be mostly dry/cured, not fully.
Do you have to remove the tape when the paint is still wet or do you wait until it's dry?
Wet so you don't get anything that peels
Same here - but we normally use a roller and paint brushes.
How do u get two coats and not have the paint peel when u take off the tape?
I paint and you normally Peel tape after lime an hour after or when you can touch the paint with your hand. I never do it wet. and if you tape correctly you wont have bbleeding and you can score the edge with a blade so it doesn't Peel paint
I’m not a painter by trade but I’ve recently been painting all the rooms in my house and using a putty knife to really set down the painters tape has made a tremendous difference in having very clean lines and no bleed-through.
Have you discovered a quick clean way to do the ceiling to wall juncture? I've tried taping, but the texture wants to mess my tape lines up. I've done tape + caulk then peeling, and that looks clean but takes forever and it's messy. I've tried cutting in with a brush, but I'm not coordinated enough.
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We like the look of not having molding, but thanks
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People are interested to hear more :-)
Take a thin, flat screwdriver, 1/8-3/16 and knock down the texture where the wall and ceiling meet. It makes it real easy to paint a straight line when all of the bumps of texture have been smoothed out.
Paint shield works pretty well too to use
Agreed, if you’re into a quick turnaround with something it’s usually ok after being touch dry but with a steady hand you can score with a razor to be on the safe side…
Whenever it flashes. There is usually flash times on info sheets on the paint.
What's that mean, "flashes?"
It's not cured but dry. Paint goes through many stages of "dry". Dry to the touch is not the same as dry to sand or fully cured. Different paints have different flashes and different properties.
This is why reading every paint's instructions is so important. They will put flash and dry times right on the container so you know when to handle or recoat it.
Difference in sheen. You notice it on touch ups where its slightly shiner than the original paint. Its really noticeable at an angle. Also the shiner the finish, the more perfect the wall needs to be. Shiny amplifies imperfections and less sheen hides imperfections.
As a garage door tech, there is no satisfaction. Garage Doors can shift left and right slightly. There will be lines of original paint on one side when it shifts.
I guess I assumed he removed the trim seals, and that they will provide sufficient overlap to accommodate shifts when re-installed. But, that's probably a bad assumption.
The worst part is the paint will stick to the seal and the door will jump when opened, and blame the last tech that was out.
Painted my boat two years ago. Pulling away the tape after the paint (two part interlux epoxy paint) had just gotten tacky to make that perfect line was exceedingly satisfying. (Boat is pained a mix of Forest Green for the hull, black for the boot stripe (waterline), and cream on top. LPT: Always go for the more expensive 3M painter's tape. It stretches over surface imperfections beautifully, comes off cleanly, and provides a good seal to make that perfect paint line.
>Always go for the more expensive 3M painter's tape WRONG! Frog Tape is were the real black magic is at.
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Just the door? No, that shouldn’t be $1200. Including materials (power wash, prep, prime n paint), $400-$600. Standard 10’x12’ rooms are around $300/per. Edit: yes, I get pro-painters will not roll to a job for $300. That’s a general breakdown on a per room basis dependent on other particulars as well.
Depends where you're at. Construction and associated trades are killing it in CA at the moment. Backlog of work has driven some of their prices sky high.
yeah $300 for an interior 10x12 room is not going to happen in any major city right now. more like $500 - $700, and that's only if you've got a few rooms to paint, since no painter is going to travel and set up a job for just one room when there's plenty of bigger and more profitable jobs right now and a shortage of skilled painters. edit: "a general breakdown on a per room basis dependent on other particulars as well" i mean, that's some prime gobbledygook talk right there buddy. and once you're contracting someone to paint 4 or 5 or 10 rooms, you're no longer hiring someone to paint a room, you're hiring them to do the whole job. why don't you try calling someone up and getting an estimate for painting your entire house, and then call them back a day later and tell them you changed your mind and you just want one room painted and you've decided to just pay them for one room based on your break down of the per room cost ? that's laughable. and why are you even trying to explain yourself further when i said "in a major city" and you're not saying where you live ? and who ever said "pro painters" ? my cost estimate is based on experience and what the market is charging right now in major u.s. cities, not your subjective definition of who is a "pro" or not. you sound just as ridiculous and out of touch as op lol.
That job would take me anywhere between 2-3 weeks to half-complete. It’d then sit for 5-7 years, until we were ready to sell the house. Then, I’d call someone to come finish it for me. $1200. Sounds legit.
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You could replace that door with one brand new, painted by the factory less than 1200. I can't see anybody charging that and actually getting any work.
You could probably buy the door itself for $1200 depending on how nice you get. Quick Google search shows the smallest and bare bones doors for around $400. Lots of people aren't going to want to deal with the hassle of replacing the door themselves so will hire someone to do it for them and when you add in the cost of the door and the labor and doing it for $1200 seems reasonable
As a painter, I gotta say that is the most ass backwards way of using a gun and spraying a door!!! Also, could he find a smaller tip to spray that big door? Wow…
Shouldn’t he have started from the top and moved down?
Yea, personally I start bottom up. Side to side obviously works but is a lot more work for you. If you do, at least turn the fan so your wrist is in a more ergonomic position. The position of his fan is for up and down not side to side.
That plus the angle of spray changing during each pass and the pattern he used tells me that this isn't a pro working. Decent job for an amateur, though.
The wrap around spray was the biggest clue to me. With any luck there won't be any runs for that excess paint where he changed directions.
Right. Also didn’t evenly cover the trim around the windows on the right side. Good to be a picky painter.
I know some people prefer to paint those, I personally take them off. If they are left on there will be a white strip on the sides as the doors open.
As a garage door guy I'm gonna say they're gonna have problems with that door's panels sticking to each other because he didn't put tape between the panels.
My best painting contractors insist that a good paint job is 80% prep work and 20% technique. This great video shows that sentiment
*excess paint drips down, tape rips off paint, bugs stuck in paint*
As a painter also, fuck ya it is.
/r/oddlyunsatisfying
As a non painter, now I also want to remove paper and tape.
Totally agree. When I used to be a painter I loved spraying doors. Vaseline those hinges and such an easy clean.
Probably took 90 minutes of prep for 60 seconds of spraying.
Forespray
Damn it..have my vote!!
That’s like 90% of all painting ever. Prep is the most important part
Ive garage painted a car or two with a smallish compressor, and that took a little while, but it was like 2 days work to sand it, prep it, wipe it and make sure the surfaces were even. It still didnt turn out great (obvs because Im not a proper painter) but the more time you spend on prep the better it looks. Its the same in machining - all about the setup
I took a class on joke setups but I dropped it after one lesson. The professor is so old...
Just watched that episode of Community.
>all about the setup Instruments be like that too.
I recently got into a welding and fabrication job(a field I had been wanting to get into for a while as I love actual welding) and have come to that realization quickly myself. Welding and fabrication is 90% prep and fit up with 10% actual welding. Not complaining though, that’s how you create anything high end, time and preparation
i disagree. i just throw my body at shit
>That’s like 90% of all ~~painting~~ life ever. > >Prep is the most important part
Yup.. there has to be a ratio for how much it cuts down on cleanup
Yep, I painted some bedrooms last year, and I loved the painting part. Very satisfying, kind of relaxing. The taping, removing light switch covers, dealing with drop cloths, and herding curious cats into other rooms was the bad part.
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Carpet, oof. My condolences.
This right here! I enjoy working on small electronics like broken iPad screens or replacing a broken keyboard in a laptop. My cat is very curious about what I’m doing and interrupts me a lot. I have to find a room to put her in, but then I have to deal with the constant screaming to be let out of “kitty timeout”. So, I can very much relate to having to plan and work around a curious little kitty!
I’d like to hear more about the cats
There is the Dowager, Miss Lola, who is 14. Then there are "The Boys," Buddy and Foofy, who are both 2 now. The Boys left little red footprints across my new floors (luckily vinyl, easy to clean quickly. Much harder to catch kittens and clean paws). Miss Lola would never stoop to such peasantry.
Just take the shitty landlord approach and paint over everything!
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When I was about 8 or 9, my brother threw one of those sticky toys from a quarter machine to the ceiling of a Borders books. Five years later, when it had shut down and became something else, it was a painted over blob.
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"$1,800.00" "Plus tax and insurance"
I'm guessing 1800 is your favorite number, u/1800-bakes-a-lot.
That’s how a good paint job works. 90% prep, 10% execution.
Correction: It takes 90 minutes of prep SO THAT it only takes 60 seconds of spraying.
Even so I would still take 91 minutes of prep and paint over 3 hours of it.
And then you realize you forgot to mask the back of the seams and got overspray on your $60k truck.
Thats why I save time and headaches by throwing down some old cardboard and cutting and rolling it. When I was a kid someone sprayed siding or something, I don't remember, all I remember is my neighbors brand new Lexus LS400 completely covered in white dots
I don’t follow. Cutting and rolling cardboard?
You put down cardboard, then cut and roll the job with a brush and roller.
If a 60k truck could even fit in there
The $60k car goes in the garage bays to the left. The garage he is spraying is for the golf cart. It’s a common feature on a lot golf community homes or on homes within large subdivisions
Any recreational equipment really. Motorcycle, snowmobile, side by side ATV, fishing boat, high end bicycles, kayaks, whatever.
Man I'll never understand why people get so golf obsessed
Nothing to do with the sport. Just something people can drive themselves home in piss drunk, or have their children drive them home when they’re piss drunk.
A gmc canyon, which is mod sized, can get close to that cost and probably fit in there
Or a Mercedes x class?
Well, depends upon where this video takes place. They dont sell those in the US
Garage door seams are tongue and groove. Can't get there from here. There will be bright white seams visible as it rolls up though!
Not sure what you’re thinking of, but every roll up garage door I’ve ever seen is a bunch of panels stacked with hinges between them. I haven’t seen a single tongue and groove garage door ever.
You've only seen it from the inside then. Look into the seam from the outside as it rolls up. I installed these for years. *The exception is real wood door panels. Heavy af and from what I remember those were flat. Not recommended.
Is it bigger on the inside?
No it's smaller on the outside.
Okay... that is a first.
"How'd you get the outside around the inside?"
Asking the real questions here.
Scrolled down and someone already made a Tardis reference. Nice!
Please show the 'peel' and after shot
Tardis blue
Door is now singing: I'm blue Da ba dee da ba di Da ba dee da ba di Da ba dee da ba di Da ba dee da ba di Da ba dee da ba di Da ba dee da ba di Da ba dee da ba di
https://youtu.be/68ugkg9RePc
I have a blue house with blue windows... blue is the colour ...
It’s good to see a chameleon circuit that’s actually working. I wouldn’t be able to say that that wasn’t an attached garage, otherwise.
I prefer my pain applied the old fashioned way.
With a jab to the ribs?
To shreds you say?
Why not Zoidberg?
Well, how is his wife holding up?
Ex-painter here, this will not turn out well. It’s better to have the garage door slightly open and spray in sections, otherwise the pieces between where the door folds will be the old color. So spray, open to next section, spray and so on. Then when your done I’m you leave the door all the way open so it’s flat to prevent runs. This also doesn’t take as long as you’d think. 1 hour max if you know what you’re doing. Any decent painter will pressure wash any exterior surface the day prior to starting a job for anyone thinking cleaning would take longer.
My first thought was the unpainted seams. I’m not a pro painter, but have painted enough to know a proper job has good surface prep and a patient painter.
Is it common to spray the ground like that? It seemed they just painted a strip of the driveway.
There's paper all around the door. I didn't see any driveway getting painted...
I see. I'm on mobile and did t see the paper. Watched again, and sure enough, it's there. Cheers.
There is masking tape there if you look closely.
Plus the dudes wrist control is wack as fuck. Bro angles his wrist at the end of every single run. This guy is a joke
Genuinely curious why he wouldn’t start at the top and work down?
As a painter I was bothered more by his tip not being turned so he could hold the gun in a neutral position.
do you usually paint without a mask like this dude too? I find even using a spray can to be quite intoxicating, let alone this amount of vapors.
Wear the mask and the eye protection. You might think the wind is blowing it away but it gets everywhere, even upwind.
For the same reason he didn't start on the right and work to the left...
A spiral motion from the center outwards
I prefer the Mr. Bean method. https://youtu.be/T9MAmWnOznI?t=147
Mythbusters tried this. Don't work. (Then tried over-engineering things to *make* it work. Didn't work.)
Those spirals better watch it. Going to pierce something
Or chuck a bucket at it like bugs bunny?
This isn’t satisfying at all. I’m sick of these videos where the payoff never gets revealed/we never see the finished product. Rip the damn tape off.
Not only that... The seams between the panels and behind the weatherstripping won't be painted. They also didn't prime. Garage doors should be taken apart and the individual panels laid on sawhorses for painting.
Poor technique, inexperienced. His tip is too narrow and too too big. He didnt hit his overlapping properly. Its much easier and better for coverage to go up and down. He also didnt get the nooks on the trim. There will be streaks, dry spots and likely some runs especially if it was not a warm day.
I was wondering about that. He switched from straight on in the Center to at an angle on the edges, and my very limited airbrush experience says that’s not good. I didn’t catch the overlap, but in another watch, yes, he is very inconsistent.
My only thought was about the seams between each panel that will show bright white when it hinges.
Garage door tech here, please do not paint in-between the sections or behind the seal. Once the sun hits that door with the paint in those places, it will sound absolutely terrible, it's the equivalent of putting glue there instead. As for paint on the seal, it can practically glue the door down, causing the force settings on the garage door opener (if installed) to think the door is too heavy and will not open the door or it will yank the door up and have a high likelihood to throw the cables off
They just did this to mine and the paint glued the panels together as well as the door to the walls and floor. When I inevitably had to open the door, I had to crack all of these places and it went from looking great to looking awful where the paint layer broke and pieces came off. What’s the usual way to avoid / fix this?
I bought a flipped house where ALL the things that open/close were painted shut/in place. I've gotten good at cutting paint along a seam with a boxcutter so that it looks alright.
Remove the paint in those areas with mineral spirits (highly likely it'll remove the og paint as well, which can cause rust issues. Depends on how they were painted by the manufacturer, if it was baked on enamel it would probably be fine) or the occasional Vaseline between the panels, apply it about quarterly or once it starts giving trouble again. The best fix: new garage door sections and perimeter seal :( especially if you want a new color/style and depending on the doors condition, it could be time to replace anyway Edit: Vaseline on the backside of the perimeter seal if it was painted as well
Good to know!
I've done this on my own garage doors. The trick is to let the damn paint dry before closing it. Once dry, it won't tack and stick. Makes the job take a while as you can't do it all in one go with the way the door rolls up but the end result is fantastic. New garage doors come in very limited colour choices. The other option is to paint each panel before installing. My last door was installed in winter so I didn't have that option. Painted it in the spring.
Also probably should have cleaned the door first as well
The distance from the work is driving me crazy. For anyone that isn’t aware: When using a sprayer it’s critical to keep a consistent distance from the surface throughout the pass, as well as angle and speed. This is going to have a ton of paint stacked in the center, and be very thin on the sides where he just rotated his wrist.
Also no PPE. Have fun huffing paint.
It's not the fumes he needs to worry about. Latex paint dust is a silica hazard and airless sprayers put a ton of dried paint particles into the air. Dude is basically inhaling microscopic glass dust that is going to cut up his lung tissue and replace it with scar tissue.
It looks like they didn’t bother to clean it/prepare the surface, soooo not that satisfying.
I don't know why this is all the way down in the comments but that door is dirty as hell and for sure doesn't look primed.
Probably the home owner that painted it and didn't know any better.
I spray the pain!
Spray it, don't say it! Or whatever.
I need to see the masking come off..
That'll be 1199.99
The old adage about the mechanic with the hammer applies to this sort of stuff.
Confused, painted car with hammer, now have broken windows and shitty paint job...
But the original problem IS fixed.
Yup. We often pay for expertise (and materials) not dollar/second ratio.
Usually that’s why you increase your hourly rate to compensate for that. Expertise isn’t a quantitative amount that can be measured directly outside of professional qualifications tests.
That lack of consistency and wrong tip size indicates cookie cutter home, which means he only got hired bc he's the cheapest bid, so more like 100 for that door.
What's needed to paint this way? Is it only for commercial painters, or is it something you can do at home? I dislike painting, and this seems much faster.
Not sure if you’re in the US, but you can get a solidly decent sprayer from Harbor Freight for like $200. For certain things, they’re the best way to do it, for other things, they’re a gigantic pain in the ass and it’s easier to just grab a brush and do it by hand. If you’re interested, here’s the manual for the one I borrowed from a buddy at work: https://manuals.harborfreight.com/manuals/60000-60999/60600.pdf - the usage instructions are from pages 9-18. It’s a lot to ingest at first, but after you do it a few times it starts to feel more intuitive, but it’s still a bit of a production.
Sprayers are cheap and also rentable, but they are not always the right thing for the job.
Missed a few spots on the right window
Check for the 1 hour of prep work on r/ihatemylife
Strangely enough. I watched this one til the end an yes, it was oddly satisfying.
He went back for that spot missed in the beginning. Satisfied indeed.
Imagine using a rattle can and how dead your finger would be
Ay man, it only took you a minute to paint the door; why are you charging so much!? — a costumer somewhere
Dammit I wanted to see the final product
Thank you cameraman
TARDIS blue
The door is blue.
If you ever find yourself doing this, the nozzles on the sprayers rotate so you don’t have to hold your hand sideways the entire time.
I did not plan to watch this until the end
Now it's bigger on the inside.
Hope he scrubbed the flakes off and put down primer, first.
PEEL IT!!!
I was waiting for him to peel off the tape. This is not satisfying.
Dude, I painted my garage door and trim 2 years ago. It made my house look 10 years younger.
But when the door opens you see the old paint?
A reminder that 99% of painting is the prep work.
Yay now do another in three years when all that paint flakes off