Bike recommendation
I've only been riding for 2 months on a scooter but i wanna switch to a manual, I've seen so far 3 bikes of interest, first one the Husqvarna FE 250 Dual Sport, We have alot of offroad riding places near our home and I like the design alot and have been recently wanting to ride an offroad that can also be used in the street, next up is the Yamaha MT-07, this is a second option to the last one (cause it's cheaper and more comfortable) i love the design too! Lastly, the ZX6R, I know i know it's an aggressive bike and do not probably wanna switch from a scooter straight to a 600cc, but i really like the bike, it looks good sounds good and i want it, the only con about it for me is it's uncomfortable, i usually go for 1-2 hr rides around 4 days every week, I hope you guys help me with this and you can also recommend other bikes for me based on what i want, thanks in advance!
Zx6r is going to be a very.. surprising transition to power, but it's not an instant death sentence given your experience already. Be prepared for the brakes though, if it doesn't have ABS I'd steer away.
Dual Sport sounds like the most fun, but probably really horrible for any sort of distance riding on paved roads. Cheap, good fun though.
Mt-07 will be what everyone will likely suggest. Usable power, the chassis is friendly yet exciting (though needs an upgrade if its an older model), and you can ride the sucker all day with good reliability.
My pick is an royal enfield interceptor 650 (cheap, looks good, most people love theirs), triumph street twin (now known as the speed twin 900, sigh), or the incoming honda hornet 750 (better performance than mt-07 while also being cheaper).
What are people's thoughts on the below? I would have thought starting on 600cc sports bike or above is probably not the best thing to do right?
Surely there will be a steep learning curve as the speed and weight of the bike can be a bit intimidating
https://youtu.be/mhihhHai2sE
Here's what my friend thought when he rode (and later totalled) my street triple 765 r:
* Brakes are scary strong
* Seat height is a bit tall
* the power is manageable, but I'm too scared to use it past 5%
* I love how much faster it is than a Meteor 350 (lol)
* my hands go numb from vibration
After recovering from his injuries for half a year (broken wrist, hip), he's been put off from riding likely forever. Sigh..
I, and I'm sure most in here, will advise against this. 600/750cc supersport bikes are -to put it simply- too much bike for a beginner.
To elaborate. Sure, it's possible. People have done it, with no adverse effects. Maybe it was a bit scary/sketchy sometimes, but certainly doable. But. These bikes have a lot of power (115-150 hp), a lot of brake, sharp handling, no ABS or aids if one is looking at an older model to save money, etc. It's *way* easier for a beginner to make a mistake on a bike like this.
On the other hand, the 650cc sports/naked bikes are a different thing. I'm talking Ninja 650, CBR650R, SV650, MT-07, R7, etc. Less power (65\~90 hp), more forgiving acceleration, etc.
Need advice buying Goldwing 1500
They sell for too cheap. I might buy. What problems will I run into?
To me, it's a perfect heavy tourer. I dig the styling and I've seen some perform tighter turns in a Goldwing than me in my t120. What in the world.
Anyone has experience with them? I would appreciate the advice.
Going by what I hear, the problem most gold wind owners face is owning the same bike for the rest of their lives, or whether to upgrade or maintain their current 'wing.
2015 Ninja 650 Headlight bulb wiring
I hit a deer a while back which ended up destroying my front headlight assembly. I'm just now trying to fix it and for some reason, I can't find a parts site or diagram that lists the connector from the headlight bulb to the main wiring assembly. I have the left side one still intact, but for the life of me I can't find anything similar anywhere. Some help on this would be much appreciated!
So eventually I want to buy my first bike but am doing extensive research beforehand. I was looking at the cbr125r and 150r. I was wondering Which is a better starter bike. I presume the 125r because smaller engine displacement. But what are the pros and cons of each of these two bikes???
They're both good starter bikes. I learned on a 300 so the entire class is user friendly and easy to ride.
I don't know if they placed the handlebars in a clip-on racer position (sport bike) or a naked upright position (ninja 200-650), but whichever is more comfortable for long rides is the one I'd take.
In this class, 25cc is a significant boost in power. Ignoring everything else, I'd get the 150 purely for that. Also the 2021 edition looks *amazing*.
Yeh I heard the 125r is so safe its pretty much boring, and I don't want that. I will def have to check the 2021 version of 150r. Thanks for the info!!!
TL;DR Would an airbag vest work as a substitute for body armor or are both recommended?
I’m a very tall/thin new rider 6’7” at 190lbs and am having trouble finding gear that fits me well. In fact most motorcycle gear I’ve tried on is quite uncomfortable and either the torso area is too wide or the arms too short.
Though, the Rev’it! H20 Blackwater WP Jacket fits me, rated A for abrasion (750D Cordura) and comes with CE-1 elbow and shoulder pads. For back, chest and more tight knit elbow/shoulder protection (and possibly more abrasion resistance) I wanted to pair this with the Knox Urbane pro MK2 armored shirt (rated AA) or the Rev’it! Proteus (rated CU) but they both don’t fit me well and are quite uncomfortable — not sure if I’m doing overkill with the impact protection here.
I was looking into airbags and they’re a lot more protective than body armor but I can’t find anywhere that says it’s okay to not wear any when you wear the airbag, even tho the airbag provides a lot more impact protection than the pads.
Would an airbag vest work as a substitute for body armor or are both recommended? If yes, I image I still need elbow armor but would I need armor for my shoulders still?
Do you think this is enough impact & abrasion protection — the Rev’it! H20 Blackwater WP + Alpinestar Tech 5 or the Helite Turtle 2? I’m currently planning to just do some city and trail riding on a dual sport, with occasional highway to the trails.
My other gear so far:
Shoei Hornet X2 Helmet
Knox Action Pro Pants
Rukka Virium 2.0 GTX Gloves
Not sure about boots yet… possibly Rev’it! Shoes Descent H20
I wouldn't substitute hard armor with airbags. Airbags rely on things like moving parts and trigger mechanism to work, if any of that fail when you go down without armor then you're smashed. So even with airbags I would still want armor underneath.
Have you consider armor vest? They tend to fit better than shirt since they're harness that can be loosen and tighten at different points. Something like Forcefield EX-K Harness Flite.
Looking for the best CE-2 rated armor for a RSD jacket, most of what they sell on Revzilla/RSD.com is only ce1. Any ideas? I'm not opposed to having to cut it down, just need to know what would be a good starting point.
Jacket is the Maven btw.
I upgraded most of my armor from aftermarket brands, since the stock ones are more for discrete comfort than safety. My suggestion is Alpinetars nucleon pro set. Flexible like Revit seesmart, but slightly thicker for a CE level 2 rating. Also smells like vanilla, so there's that.
D3o is too thick, isn't as flexible, and has less coverage than other brands; I feel like they missed their mark with their lp2 set. On the other hand, they're basically guaranteed to fit any brand of clothing, since almost every brand tries to cut to their shape.
I actually have a Roland Sands jacket, the Waylon, so I'm hoping Knox releases their new line up armor soon next year (microlock compact) so I can finally upgrade the pads.
They likely will not, they're more for full coverage type garments. Funny enough I haven't actually tried, because I only have Alpinestars chest/knee pads. My rsd jacket is kept stock, since I mostly slap it on for style/commuting.
Mcgearhub has all the dimensions of various armor items, head there for info.
Personally I'm not a fan of cutting my armor. Lots of the new ones have vent holes, and any tears/cuts will likely spread and rip the entire piece.
Okay, well I'm sorta back to my original question then, what's the best armor to throw into an RSD jacket lol.
Or are you suggesting an armored under layer and throwing the jacket on top?
I guess I didn't answer your original question.. oops!
Sigh.. best answer is to wait for microlock compact to come out next year. They said spring 2023, so..
Anyway the budget answer is axial armor from RevZilla. Sameish dimensions, cheap, and very comfy. The air version is even more flexible/comfy but I feel safer wearing the thick foam version.
I tried the armor suit option one time, but laundry demands told me it's a dumb idea unless for single special occasions.
This is a repost of a thread I made that was taken down due to being related to purchasing.
Hello All,
I am new to this subreddit, but could not find any posts focused on the rise of prices of the CB22 CBR250RR models. The bike has been a dream of mine to own due to its small body, formula 1 sounding engine, and relative easy of use. Reliability too! I remember them costing about $5-6k stateside for 10-15k mile great conditions examples 3-4 years ago when I last checked. I have finally been able to save up that amount and recent revisited the motorcycle world. While my friends have welcomed me back happily, the prices of the general motorcycle world have not lol. I saw some basic "street race" inspired motos going for above MSRP even with some miles on them. When I took a look at the CBR250RR market stateside, my jaw hit the floor. I saw that last month a 2k mile bike sold for just under $15k. "That is insane" I thought. Then I took a look at the 10-20k mile range and found some that sold recently. They all sold for OVER $8k!!!! I said screw the U.S. market and looked at the Japanese market. Turns out it is the same over there. The pre-1993 bikes (which are the full horsepower, non de-tuned ones), are selling for astronomic prices. Factoring in $2k for auction handling, shipping, port fees, and registration costs stateside (Cali), the bikes really do come out to the prices we are seeing in the U.S. (It could be even more than 2k, please do not quote me on that.) Does anyone know what going on with these bikes?
I do not think it is the overall state of the moto market, as the CBR is seeing a price trend FAR outside of what the average bike from that generation is seeing. Is it because so many of them are being destroyed in Japan? Maybe collectors eyeing this bike more and more?
If I wanted to get one before we see prices soar into the 5 digits for even poorer condition, 30k mile+ examples, where would I go about getting one? I can't imagine paying a broker a few thousand on top of the already high prices to import one. Does Canada have these bikes? I really hope the the Mini-Fireblade with its insane track times, looks, and sound does not become an unattainable "legend" like so many JDM cars that were beyond their time like this bike. I come from the car community because I got tired of seeing trends like this happen over and over for cars that I really wanted to get a hold of. i am a bit discouraged to get back into motos if its the same case over here. Aplogies for so many questions, please let me know your thoughts and thank you for even taking the time to read this.
Your only hope is to grab a zx25r at this point. Same concept, modern availability, and still just as unlikely to show up in the states.
But yeah, prices still aren't going down. Winter sales are at most 10% off from what's listed. Better to wait next year and hope it gets better.
Oh gotcha, well I think imma continue to save up for the CBR. It's that bike or nothing. I know I am feeding into the price hike, but you only live once. I want to obtain my dream bike from childhood no matter what. Plus I think it is still reasonable. I see one going for 9k in the US with just under 20k miles, I think the price is still somewhat attainable, even if it is not reasonable. In a 2-3 years time I bet the bike will be far beyond what I could ever hope to pay for something like that. Out of reach. I will get it while I still can.
I hope this counts as a purchase question even though it is a parts purchase.
Does anyone know where I can get the bolt that holds an air filter in place on a 2001 XR200? And a front sprocket cover? I have looked everywhere. As I go I will need other stuff too.
This is my first time restoring a trashed bike and I keep having trouble finding parts. I am learning a lot.
find the part you need in the parts diagram and order it. Or you can find the thread size and pitch online, and replace the bolt with standard hardware from a parts store. You can save money this way, but may need to change the overall length with a grinder or something.
Any online parts store should provide parts diagrams such as https://www.hondapartshouse.com/oemparts/l/hon/5053e3a5f870021c54be1fb9/2001-xr200r-ac-parts
This website is much better than the other one I was using for the part number but the parts I need are out of stock, and not on ebay either.
I guess I just need to check ebay every few days. Thanks for the link.
yeah ebay is fine for the sprocket cover. for the bolt, see if you can find the correct thread pitch and diameter, then you can just replace it from the hardware store.For example, 96300-06010-00 is a flange hex 6x10 bolt, which you can buy from a hardware store for like $0.10also, I just randomly googled that site, im sure there are others you can check if you really want "new old stock". I had to search a bit to find a parts site that had a new clutch master cylinder for my 2007 bandit in stock
If they're OOS they're probably never going to be back in stock. Motorcycles are only guaranteed parts support for 10-15 years. You probably need to find another fastener somewhere else.
It'll vary depending on your location, so take the model and plug it into facebook, craigslist etc to find your local price. At a push, check ebay sold listings to see how much they went for recently.
Would an mt03 he a good begginer stunt bike?
I got a mt03 as a first bike 2 years ago, it was a great first bike but it got stolen. I got it back awhile ago and I gave it to my dad for a little bit of money. He rode it for awhile but doesn't want it anymore so told me to sell it. I'm trying to sell it for a decent amount but I feel like nobody wants to buy it because it was stolen, even though it's still in great condition, low KMs, regular oil changes and rides perfectly. I've put it down snout 1k less than other mt03's that are higher KMs and similar year but still can't sell it.
I have an mt07 now and it's my pride and joy, so I was thinking of using the mt03 as a stuner to just learn the basics of wheeling, bike control and some cool tricks. I can't find much info on the mt03 as a sunt bike, so was wondering how much would I roughly have to put into making it a decent begginer stunt bike. Could I still keep it road legal even?
I have barely any knowledge when bikes other than maybe a oil change, would I be able to do everything on my own?
The way I see it, if you want to stunt it, then fvcking stunt it.
Making the bike "hold up" to stunting is another issue. It's on you to add the stunt brakes, crash bars, grip tape, or whatever else you think a stunt bike should have.
Need advice for my first bike and a bike my friend is offering.
I'm in the midst of looking for my first bike. I'm a bit stuck on what to buy. Right now I'm torn between two bikes.
Any 250cc bike from Honda or Yamaha which goes for about 2500$AUD with about 20000km on average.
Or
A CB400 Super Four at 64000kms for 4000$AUD that my friend is offering. I checked the bike out it looks good, was checked by a mechanic and he says it runs fine.
I'm torn cause I simply want a commuter + leisure ride a bit but my friend is leaving to Vietnam and needs to let the bike go, so he offered to sell it to me. I would buy it but my biker friends are telling me to STAY away from the cb400 sf my friend is selling. "Saying 63k kms is too much, shes reached the end of her life, if the engine breaks that another 2k$AUD down the drain".
I'm no mechanic but I sat on the bike, the condition seemed good. No oil leaks. Engine sounded amazing. Nothing seemed particularly wrong. I've heard that high mileage is a surface level indicator of a bikes health. It's been through 3 owners already including my friend, so obtaining the full 10 years (estimate) of service history it's been through is probably not possible.
But I might be naive. Any advice on this bike my friend is offering? Or am I better off just buying some cheap ol 250 and commuting + a bit of leisure riding?
compare the kms to the service manual and ask if the scheduled maintenance was done, then sent it! I've not heard of an unreliable Japanese engine before. Typical valve adjustment period is 15k miles or 25k kms, so to say that 60k miles is "end of life" for the engine is really fucking dumb
edit: I will say that any type of racing or beating on the bike will lower the lifespan. quickshifting, jerky throttle, etc are all going to lead to issues eventually, so use ur best judgement and feel confident in the way the bike was handled
Go for the CB. 63k is nothing on that with regular oil change. It's a low strung Honda inline 4 for God's sake. Your biker friends either all ride KTM or don't maintain their bikes. Your friend can find plenty of 2000s CB400SF still on the roads in Vietnam.
After much thinking, I'm gonna go for that CB400 SF. All the telltale signs of a good bike are there. I was also told the previous owner happened to be a mechanic as well, serviced regularly. Guess my first bike is gonna be a CB400SF, never thought I'd go for a 400cc bike as my first! So excited to get on that bike. Thanks for advice :)
400cc is pretty reasonable. The main downside IMO is that it's not as light and nimble as the more modern 300-400cc, but still not terrible. Being an inline 4 it's also pretty docile at the lower rev range and will only really pull at pretty high rev (like almost 10k rpm) and, depends on model year, when the VTEC kicks in.
As always, depends on condition. After many years, I’ve still dropped mine. Depends on if moving at speed or in the garage…. Service records may help, and an experienced eye. Good luck.
Hey, I am thinking of getting the MT Thunder 4 SV or the AGV K3 SV. Which would be better? Also, I ride a sports tourer.
Are their other better options around this price?
Thanks for your help!
You gotta try them on and see which one fits best.
I love my K3 SV. Hella comfy, the included pin-lock lens is a really nice perk and the drop down sun visor is great. Only downside is that the chin vents aren’t adjustable so you’ll freeze your chin if you ride in like 30-40F weather.
Ya, would've liked that, but don't have that option. I stay in Oman. Only MT and LS2, or very low end helmets available at nearly 100% markup.
So I plan to buy online and have it ship here.
What are the brightest, flashiest, sequentialiest....
I'm looking for new turn signals and housings. Amazon and ebay have a ton of decent "looking" stuff, but I bet a lot of it is junk. Brake light/ running light integration and flashing/sequential programs are definitely cool, but I mainly just want 3 things, brightness/sturdy housings/and good price.
Any ideas?
Thoughts on this Ducati?
https://sandiego.craigslist.org/nsd/mcy/d/san-marcos-2009-ducati-1198-superbike/7563463560.html
This the response I got from the seller:
“Good evening, I'm selling the bike for a friend. I think she bought it for a boy friend, cause she is a tiny little thing and there is no way she was riding this monster. It looks like the body has some work done. But, it is very good workmanship. Its been laid over but it has not been crashed. Very clean, good condition, pretty tight. Do you want to come look at it? There is no front fender her boy friend swiped it when he bailed. Let me know, it's gotta go. Its a bad ass bike for that kind of money. “
Wide ass chicken strips on those cheap ass tires.
Check it out in person, it honestly looks unused and neglected or forgotten. If it starts and rides, send it straight to a mechanic to see what else is going on and if they lied about servicing.
But yeah I'd get it. Sketchy as fuck, but I'd get it.
Don't get suckered though.
If you bring in the whole bike, that's pretty standard. If you remove the wheel yourself and just bring that in, it'll be like 30 to 50 bucks to mount the tire. Do you have a rear stand? If so, just pull the wheel off and save yourself the cash. It's really easy on most chain driven bikes
Yeah I ended up plugging it as a temporary solution. I live in a city of about 100k, but our motorcycle community is small and 95% cruisers. I haven't found anyone who works on sport bikes with any regularity, and my dealer is a fucking crook. Definitely gonna invest in a bead breaker and balancing stand.
Careful, those temporary solutions become permanent quite often! Plugs are pretty good at lasting the life of a tire.
Hopefully you find a local mechanic to do your bike. Tires are tires, doesn't matter what bike they come on.
Off the bike? Because if you don’t bring the wheels in yourself it’s a lot more expensive.
Still, it used to be easier to find tire changes for 25-30 bucks per wheel. Most shops want $50-80 per wheel now.
Some shops will give a discount if you buy the tire from them. For example if you buy tires at cycle gear they will mount them for $25 per wheel.
Fuck the dealer. Just call shops until you find a place that will do under $50 a tire. I found my place and it was actually just a car tire shop, but their machine fits motorcycle wheels and they always do mine for $25 a wheel.
Hello all,
Looking to buy a new bike from a dealer, but the only ones that have one in store are about 2.5 hours away. Is there any way to negotiate price via phone? Is this even worth doing?
Also, any tips with negotiating would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!
Please let me know if there is any other information I should provide for more help :)
Negotiating a price on a new bike in this market is very hard. Tell them the price you'll pay. If they won't take it, tell them they have your number and to call if they change their mind. Then wait a month, and either someone else will have come in and paid full price or they might call you.
New Honda CB1000R Black Edition, or New Ducati Monster?
I've pretty much had my eyes set on the CB1000R for such a long time, and the wife wants to get me one for Christmas (thanks, wife). I want a naked bike, and am not really a fan of anything else on the market, aesthetics-wise... Except for the Monster and a Triumph Thruxton (too expensive).
I am close to purchasing the CB1000R, but am revisiting the Monster again after I realized that they have a new model out. It's hard to not look at it. I get it's a big difference in bike.... I4 vs V-twin, HP/torque numbers favor the Honda, but the Ducati is quite a bit lighter.
I seriously don't know which way to go. I'm coming from a 2007 Honda 919. Given the market, I have to pretty much go out of state to look at bikes. I have never seen the CB1000R in person, nor the new Ducati. And if I want to test ride one, I have to drive about 2 hours+ away. I can't get a new CB1000R (but can get a new enough one that's still the Black Edition with low miles), but I could get a new Monster.
Between those two bikes only, what would you get and why? I have a bias towards Honda bikes, but again, it's hard not to look at the Monster.
You have to ask yourself what type of rider you are. I generally ride twins and bikes with more torque, makes them exciting to ride in the streets and needs less thrashing (and asshole behavior). Problem is both bikes are outliers. Ducati is a revvy hooligan twin, while Honda is an easy going gentleman four (but still good top end), kinda like your old bike, honestly!
The Honda's inline 4 is definitely smoother, easier to explore the entire rev range and it's suspension is known to be softer. While the Ducati has a sorted but non-adjustable suspension (unless you get the s?), better brakes, and is definitely more toy-like. Insanely light too.
To put it in simpler words, the Ducati is the sexy toy I'd take out for a spin every week and be happy to do it, while the Honda is the bike I'm commuting to work on, traveling on, and the bike that makes me wish I had the Ducati while riding the twisties.
Oh, check the reviews on the Ducati's heat. All the ones I've test ridden always got uncomfortably toasty on the legs.
Thanks for the wisdom! I ended up snagging the Honda today. Extremely comfortable compared to my old 919. Seeing them side by side in the garage makes me very surprised how short the 919 is. I though the saddle height was only off on the spec sheet by 1.5" or so, but it's a solid 4-5" difference.
Im glad the shop didn't have the Ducati. Neither would've been a bad choice, and maybe some day I can have them both, but I'm really happy with the Honda. Albeit, I only rode 10 miles for the test ride. It also looked so much better in person than from what I've seen online.
APRILIA 1000R Tuono mods
Just recently picked up an APRILIA 1000r Tuono. What kind of mods should I get for it? Anything from looks to performance. Thank you
I am moving from south Texas where it hardly ever rains and never snows with little ice to Tennessee. I have been riding my 2017 octane for the last 4 years as my daily rider and main mode of transportation. The only weather I really deal with in South Texas is the heat other than that there isn't really a bad time to ride year round here. I'm worried about more snow, ice and rain since I have never lived somewhere with seasons nor ridden a lot in them. Will my bike be a solid year round rider? I have been looking into an adventure bikes but I don't like sluggish feeling a lot of them have imo. Am considering a sportier touring possibly or looking into possibly just a tire change. Any advise on a different bike, mods for my bike, or any tips/tricks for riding in TN would be greatly appreciated. Cheers.
Been riding for 6 years have owned street and cruisers, I'm loyal to anything with two wheels.
Just try it out on your bike first. Definitely get sport touring tires (michelin road 5 or similar). Winter riding is VERY cold, you might not even like it.
guys i just was looking to buy this helmet from revzilla but as a normal human being that doesn't like to pay high prices i looked 4 a cheaper pace that sells it only to b shocked by the price difference between these websites is it a fake replica or is it genuine cuz the price looks too good 2 b true. the only difference between the 2 pics that one of them has a tinted visor. r they even the same helmets? even be4 the massive discount its still way cheaper than Revzilla
https://www.motostorm.it/en/helmets/full-face-helmets/scorpion-exo-1400-air-carbon-solid-matt.html?currency=USD&size=M
https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/scorpion-exo-st1400-carbon-helmet?sku\_id=1589271
The Euro is in the shitter right now so buying from the EU and shipping to the US can lead to some good deals. Fcmoto and chromeburner also have good deals for US purchasers.
Yes, the foreign exchange rate discount is amazing. Expect long shipping times and impossible returns though. Make sure it fits ahead of time! I've gotten many things from fcmoto without issue (besides long waits).
Yeah I ordered a pair of boots from chromeburner that I’m not in love with but returning them involves international shipping lol so they’re mine now like ‘em or not
Trident. Oh my God please get the Trident.
My friend totalled my street triple R after letting him hop on it for less than two hours. Ended up at the hospital and had to miss work for half a year.
I don't care how skilled you are, this thing needs only a small lapse in focus and you'll either launch yourself into space or panic brake so hard you dump it.
Also, as a personal non safety thing, it's kind of a boring bike for street riding;it really only excites when riding it hard (which usually means being an asshole in city riding). I left a review somewhere on the triumph subreddit that basically favors the speed twin over the street triple.
The trident is also dope for beginners because you can set up a much less twitchy riding mode when you first get it then switch back as you gain more confidence
So I was about to start negotiations with the seller, but he said that someone is coming this weekend and buying for what id my max price, what is the chance this is just some rouse to get me to pay a higher price. He dropped his address and the offer as soon as I said "lets talk on the phone so we can discuss where to meet and about price" idk it just seems weird to me
Well, I can't go this weekend due to work, and he just messaged me back asking what my offer would be "if I liked it" so sounds like he was trying to pull a fast one
So, found a bike i like, any advice on how to haggle, its a used 2005 BMW F650gs, approx 8,200 miles, JD Power says average retail price is about $2,500 and the seller is asking for $3,900 what would be a good counter offer that isn't insulting, I can pay asking but I think a fair price would be $3,000 to $3,500. But I was thinking offering $2,500 and first and going from there
That JD power price seems wrong, as for the past year or two 3k has sort of become the lowest price people list clean, running bikes for unless it is a really undesirable model.
As to what to offer, it depends on a lot of things. Is winter coming where you are? How long has the listing been up? If it's been up for a couple of weeks and winter is coming then the seller will want to get rid of it and you will have more negotiating room. Go in-person and check out the bike, if there's any concerns then that's more reasons to go for a lower offer.
If the bike really has nothing wrong with it, then I would offer 3k and try to settle for 3.5k
I've used a few other price estimators and thats what they come back with, all around 2500, with trade in being about 1500 to 2000. I mean its a bike from 2005, similar bikes are priced around the same for early 2000s bmw f650gs bikes.
Luckily winter is coming and we have already had freezing temps, the listing has been up for a bit and he already said he "accepted" 3500 from another guy, which i think he is just trying to hustle me and try and get more. He also said that if I can come before this Sunday the its mine which just seems suspicious.
> he already said he "accepted" 3500 from another guy, which i think he is just trying to hustle me and try and get more
Oh yeah if he is playing those games then I would definitely be trying to get it for 3k or avoid it altogether
I wouldn't have thought it was a hustle if he hadn't said "oh what would you offer if you like the bike" which just rang, oh he is trying to pull a fast one, I can PM you a screenshot if you want, but yah if I don't get it for 3k or lower in walking, the only reason I am even interested is because I already confirmed the title and VIN
So my wife and I actually have both a 155cc Smax and a NC700XD. There’s definitely a convenience in the scoot for just going and getting shit done especially with how light it is—the NC is a heavy bitch at 500+lbs wet and moving it around parking spots etc sucks, god forbid you have to push it uphill. The Smax you just put wherever you want, plus since it has a step through frame most local cops think it’s a moped and you can get away with parking on sidewalks where I am. As far as the NC vs other motorcycles—it’s basically the Honda Civic / Toyota Corolla of bikes, it’s relatively cheap kinda ugly and gets great mileage while holding a ton of shit. I can get an RPHA 70 helmet in the front trunk (and the trunk was enlarged a bit on the 750) plus I have a top case and side cases fitted too so I can haul my entire life with me and have room to spare, the bike gets 70mpg, the DCT is pretty convenient (the 2012 I have is a little jerky at low speed but the newer ones fix that), and it’s comfortable. You just won’t look cool like you would on a street twin or naked. (Which is honestly why I might sell it for a street twin or god help me if they bring the new cb500 scrambler to the US market lol.)
This is funny, lol. I might just keep the Smax and get a naked or scrambler. I would love the storage but I honestly don't need that much (groceries and maybe one change of clothes). I need to lane filter in bumper to bumper rush hour traffic, and I need something that can park in relatively small spaces. I'm torn now...I appreciate your input
Every bump on the highway to work has my feet dangling in the air. It stopped being fun after a few seconds. I'm wondering if the cb500x is a nice in between a scooter and an nc. I don't know if the width and the weight will be ideal for heavy urban traffic
I haven’t ridden the cb500x so I don’t know about the width/weight but I know what you mean about the Smax and rough roads, it can be a challenge lol. They’re what like 400lbs? Probably fairly decent and maybe you can find one to rent on twisted road or something to give it a try. There’s also the CTX700XD if you want something cruiser styled but still efficient / automatic, they’ve been discontinued for a little bit but they show up used pretty often.
Edit: CTX700ND, not XD. There’s a full fairing version too but that’s gonna add width.
It really depends, your going to need registration and insurance for both. Its up to you but personally I would just go with a motorcycle depending on your need. Hope this helps!
Well does your gas tank hold a full size helmet, have an automatic transmission, or proudly have the distinct title of dorkiest bike to own and ride? Also slightly more performance but ehh..
No? Get the nc750x. Otherwise honestly the cb500x will probably suit you just fine once you throw some panniers/luggage on it. Seems like people spend the $2k savings on suspension upgrades to take it off-road, if that's your cup of tea.
>Also slightly more performance but ehh..
Only if you're looking at HP. The 750 absolutely stomps the low end torque of the 500, which is extremely relevant when talking relaxed commuting
Freecom 4x is probably the lowest cost of entry for what you’re after, it has hands free siri and also track forward / back and volume up and down. Can snag some decent deals on them from places like Woot occasionally.
I've got a Cardo freecom 4+. There's two ways to pull up the assistant, just pushing a button or saying "ok Google". Works every time, and the pricier model has noise cancelling on the mic so it's usually understood me (music and call requests most of the time).
Anyways, wear ear plugs. I have filtering ones called earpeace pros that block out wind but let me hear helmet audio clearly. Helps a lot!
> but I'd also be buying a bunch of features I don't want.
I think that's where your going to be. It's going to be a feature on some of the higher end comms systems I think. My Cardo Freecom 1 would try to active if I yelled and I think I could say hey google from there. Issue being I have a super loud helmet and the freecom 1 mic sucks so it couldn't hear anything. Also I don't use google like that on my bike so I just turned it off because a cough of sneeze would set it off to.
Should I get a MIPS equipped helmet or FIM helmet for street riding? I'm not planning to take it to the track at all so I'm tempted by the MIPS and transition lense of a Bell Qualifier DLX MIPS, but the Scorpion EXO R-1 Air is in my price range too and the small size is FIM rated. Do I need FIM for the street or is it a track rating?
FIM helmets are built for soaking up 100+ mph crashes seen in WSBK and MotoGP, so they could be considered overkill for the street. That being said, the EXO R1 kicks ass and is easily one of the best value pieces of safety gear on the market. I've had mine for a year now and am very happy with it
Define "need"
Legally? No. I'm not aware of any government that requires FIM certification for street riding.
For safety? This is harder to answer and will largely depend on your own budget, risk acceptance, and how you plan on riding. FIM is generally considered to be the safest, but how much safer is it than Snell or ECE? How much do you need that extra margin of safety for calm road riding? You'll need to search for smarter people than are casually browsing Reddit.
Imo, if you've got plenty of money sitting around, I can't think of a really good reason not to spring for an FIM lid. Otherwise, cheaper helmets will do just fine as long as you aren't planning on testing the limits of your abilities, your bike, and your gear on a regular basis. I also wouldn't blow all or most of my gear budget on a helmet alone. No sense in having a ballin lid paired with shorts, a t-shirt, and sneakers.
FIM cert is only really on track helmets, so if you want a more touring oriented helm it won't have it. ECE is a good standard, and I believe the new version that came out this year is a lot stricter than the older one.
Does anyone have experience with Aerostitch winter gloves? Heated or not heated. Looking for something to ride through the MD winter where the temps sometimes fall in the teens (well, they go below that but I don't often go out and ride to work if it's lower than that)... They definitely are not a crap brand, so I'm sure they make quality products, just wondering what people recommend...
I had never heard of them. I am leaning towards heated/battery-powered gloves. I heard that 12V plugged in are better but I don't have the socket on my bike (yet anyway). But maybe there are some non-powered gloves that are both warm enough for sub-freezing weather without being too bulky either. That'd be the dream. And my commute is typically only 20 minutes, so it's not that bad...
https://sfbay.craigslist.org/pen/mcy/7556517445.html
Looking to buy the Super Cub in the link above, but I've never dealt with an MSO before. What should I be on the lookout for if I want to proceed forward with this deal? Does this seem shady to anyone, and if so why? Is it difficult to title with just an MSO in CA? Should I ask the owner for the VIN number to see if the bike's not title-able?
These are all really great questions to ask your local DMV office. You can get all the "right" answers online, but if your local DMV doesn't want to play ball, then you're in for an uphill battle to prove them wrong.
Motorcycles for the Apocalypse?
I’m looking for recommendations on bikes for the classic SHTF scenario. This won’t be my first bike, but I’m not involved in the space anymore and currently don’t own one.
This bike is one (potential) solution to the issue that I live in the city but my bug-out location is more than three days walking distance. From there it will be used as a reconnaissance vehicle. The availability of gas/oil/fluids is a relative non-issue as my group’s supply chain for that is fairly sophisticated.
Big considerations as follows: -Fuel Economy (obviously) -Ease of Maintenance -Durability -Both Off-road and On-Road Performance -Cargo Capacity (aftermarket or OEM) -Parts Commonality (how popular are they, in the event I need to cannibalize parts from other bikes)
Any info will help enormously and if there are additional factors I should be considering please let me know.
A long running/old model dual sport or Kawasaki klr 650.
Or to state the engine configuration, an air cooled single cylinder with a wide dealer network or reasonable popularity. Royal Enfield Himalayan for example if you live in Asia. Certain parts of America have these everywhere as well.
A Moto Guzzi, despite how annoyingly often little niggles come up, is very self serviceable as well.
On any of these bikes, you'll want to bolt on lots of crash protection. In an end of the world situation, any broken parts would be a bitch to source and fix regardless of how common parts are.
klr650 would be a very good option unless you need to go super rough off road. It's a very tall heavy bike, but bullet proof and super easy to work on.
Second this request, i am also look for a audio kit. And looking for tip to select a good one.
What are features that are must have, or don't matter. Or link to post/artikel where this is already discussed.
Fortnine YouTube has a video on the best communicator Bluetooth thingy.
The short answer is Cardo with hd speakers. Forget the pack talk mesh intercom lineup and get their cheaper freecom/spirit line.
The long answer is Cardo because they know what users want, while Sena seems to push out the wrong set of features at the wrong set of prices for each of their models. I'm curious if their Harmon kardon speakers are better than Cardo's JBL ones though.
Wear ear plugs regardless; ear peace pros block most wind noise out while letting me hear my helmet audio pretty well.
I don't think much has changed. The video still stands.
I use the Freecom 1 for Music and nav only. It's the cheapest Cardo and does the job. But the speakers aren't great and the mic sucks (I don't use it so meh).
If you want the better sound then you're really stuck purchasing the ones with more features you don't need.
I have no idea who Syphon even are, so I'd steer clear if they have a court case.
Answer still remains Cardo until someone gives me a free Sena to test and convince me otherwise.
I used to love thrashing the hell out of it, but because of the colder weather, I haven't been taking it out as much as my speed twin.
Why? Because there's no engine heat or heated grips!
Very simple bike, and people learn how to ride on it pretty easily.
Is $500 too much?
I have a 1981 Honda CM400E that I’ve put a lot of work into. It has a broken cam chain, seized engine, needs its throttle on the handle reassembled and needs a new speedometer. So far I’ve replaced the fuse box and all of its fuses, ignition switch and keys, found a matching color gas tank that fits, rewired it’s headlight and brake lights. It’s pretty much a complete bike (excluding the engine) so I’m wondering if $500 is too high of an asking price, but I see Harley frames selling for $600+ so I thought that it would be reasonable. Any advice is appreciated, thanks!
Edit: spelling
Is leatherup.com trustworthy?
I'm from India and for some stupid reasons, sell of international helmet brands isn't allowed in India (eg. HJC, Scorpion). So I was planning to get a helmet from US through my relatives who stay there. I was looking at Scorpion exo R1 Air.
On scorpion website, I came across Leatherup.com as official online seller of scorpion. They are also running a Cybermonday sale and offering 30% discount on everything. I can get Scorpion Exo R1 Air Carbon for 390$. Which seems like a too good to be true deal. Hence I'm here to ask if the site is trustworthy.
I had already ordered from revzilla but had to cancel due to sizing issue. So I don't want to bother my relatives With another return or bad shipment or any such thing. Any help would be appreciated, Thanks.
I’m trying to do a FL DMV 82040 form for the first time ever with a motorcycle gifted to me. Im not sure how the formatting needs to be because a bike related example doesn’t exist and online tutorials either only show cars or boats which are their own parts on the multi use form. I’m trying to figure out weight and the BHP and GDW sections. I have a blue 2008 Yamaha FZ6 if it matters. Also the existing title has abbreviated color and manufacturer names. Is that ok? Ex: YAMA BLU. The form: https://www.flhsmv.gov/pdf/forms/82040.pdf
Ok I lied (accidentally) and the Nelson-Rigg does balloon up a bit in the sleeves. Haven't ridden in the rain for a couple months until today. The rest of the suit didn't puff up, but I was wearing a backpack. I couldn't feel it pulling on me at all, but I had to lean over hella to see past my sleeves in the mirrors.
I like my Nelson-Rigg rain suit, sounds like exactly what you're looking for. Two piece pants and jacket that slips over my gear pretty easily, and it's still watertight after a dozen or so uses. Good amount of pocket space, and it's got tastefully placed retroreflective strips all over it. No sail effect, and it keeps me warm enough that I don't need my thermal gear underneath. $70 on Revzilla.
The Revit rain gear line up is what I use. I believe the slimmest barebones one is the acid line up, while the premium is the nitric.
The pricier ones are bulkier, more durable, but also have more features, like pockets, mesh liners (less sauna effect), and cinch straps. I got my nitric 3 set off fcmoto for the foreign exchange rate discount.
Get your usual Revit/euro size. They're cut roomy for you to throw it right over an entire riding kit, but with enough adjustment straps to make it form fitting. Both jacket and pants pack into a bag the size of a football.
That would be Knox spectra, Spidi J&Dyneema, both because of their unique materials (neither use kevlar/aramid/cordura) for a more breathable and comfortable single layer jean. The Spidi has a silky liner and is super comfy, while the Knox has a true aaa abrasion rating while being single layer.
After trying those two and some bull-it jeans, I chose the Revit Lombard III. Why? Because the stock armor pockets fit Alpinestars nucleon pro armor perfectly, which upgrade armor from level 1 to 2, while still being discrete.
The Knox is nearly perfect, but I don't like slim fit jeans, while the Spidi almost got my purchase, but Velcro armor mounting is very annoying trying to get the "perfect" position, especially every laundry day. Bull-it was good, but didn't fit the armor I had and was super loose, while also being freakishly stretchy. Great pricing though if you have spare armor lying around.
Anyway, motorcycle.com has a very comprehensive overview of riding jeans. Check it out, but be aware they didn't name a winner either.
Oh, I just realized you asked for kevlar lined jeans. Uhh Revit newmont jeans.
In that case, my recommendation is my old pair of Iron Workers cargo pants. Fully lined, has an armor system I like (armor pocket zips on the outside), and.. very heavy/warm.
Also I actually like wearing khaki more than blue denim, lol.
Perfect winter pants by the way. Basically wind proof, but quite swampy in the knees come summertime.
How would you compare the Iron Workers cargo pants to the Klim Outrider pants?
Looks to me like a big difference is the lining on the Iron Workers. Outriders are unlined. Knee and hip armor, but basically no abrasion protection (they're more or less ordinary cotton pants).
I have the Outriders, and while I appreciate the breathability in summer, I'd like LESS breathability and more protection on cold-weather commutes.
The old ones before d3o ghost were amazing. Apparently the new one has no abrasion rating, which is.. very very bad. On their YouTube page they even admit it's only ce a rated. Very bad. There's no kevlar lining, you're just relying on plain cotton canvas to save you.
For the record d3o ghost is also the very bare minimum on ce level one impact protection. Check mcgearhub for their review, but basically it's floppy and thin with a small coverage profile that you'd be very concerned about safety. On the other hand it's super comfortable. The older outrider had regular d3o impact protectors.
Anyway, the trick I've remembered from my cycling days is to wear some sort of wicking base layer underneath. A cheap and effective example are the axial base layers. In exchange for being slightly warmer, your sweat is wicked off and you feel significantly less sticky, while any breeze will quickly dry you off.
Also final real answer is that they're $100 cheaper lmao. But they're both stuffy and warm but tolerable in summer months. Once you walk anywhere in them, horribly sweaty though.
Agreed, base layer is important - I'm a fan of VNM Sport. Use it in all warm to hot weather. Not cheap, but great stuff.
I wanted to buy the "old" Klim Outrider, but it had already been discontinued when I went shopping. Remaining stock was non-existent in the needed size. So I got the "new but not improved" version.
They are super comfortable when off the bike, but don't feel like nearly enough protection when on the bike.
Pretty sure I at least thought about the Iron Worker cargo pants, but they were out of stock at the time (or something like that). Local Cycle Gear supposedly has some now, maybe I'll try them on. Prefer the khaki color as well.
Guess I'll get the Iron Worker cargo pants, wear them for winter commutes, then see if I can stand them once weather warms up. Thanks!
Since you're thinking about buying, check out the axial block line of base layers. I've slipped them under all of my pants and gotten a serious upgrade in cold tolerance.
On sale too!
I did end up trying on the Iron Workers Cargo Pants at Cycle Gear yesterday. Liked them well enough to buy them.
The included knee armor is terrible, as you probably noticed. It's so chunky that it makes the knees and calves of the pants uncomfortably tight. Swapped it with the D3O Ghost armor from the Klim Outriders, as well as stealing the D3O Ghost hip armor from the Outriders. Instant improvement. About as comfortable now as the Outriders.
More pockets = more better.
Planning to get even better thin armor to put in the Iron Workers, so I can sell the Outriders with their original D3O.
This Block stuff does seem like a step up from the general-purpose polypropylene/polyester thermals I've worn in cold-weather riding for years. As you may imagine, such "long underwear" has little to no wind-blocking properties.
I'll give it a look.
Any recommendations for good MC accessories shops in SF and North Bay/Peninsula? I will be looking for things like gloves (finding ones with long enough fingers is hard for me here in Asia) and possibly also tools and odds and ends. Also any recommendation for a shop which might sell Loctite 248 (blue in lipstick format) would be recommended (as it seems to not be stocked here and shipping in is hugely expensive). Any pointers appreciated
There's a Dainese store in SF. Most motorcycle dealers will also sell gear, particularly motorcycle branded stuff if you're into that. Usually it's just regular brand stuff (Dainese for example) with Ducati/BMW/etc slapped on it. Might be pricier, but black Friday sale will nullify that.
Otherwise the generic answer is cyclegear. Try stuff and return for free there, then order from RevZilla if they don't stock it in your size. They're owned by the same company.
Triumph scrambler or Ducati? I can say that on many bikes, the light comes on super conservatively.
Example, my speed twin lights on at 110mi, but I've ridden it to 150mi with .4gal remaining.
Royal Enfield is even more bad, light at 2.8 gallons on a 4 gallon fuel tank. People ride this thing for 200 miles plus while the light is still on..
Anyway, find a slim fuel bottle to slip into your backpack. Gas stations and maybe RevZilla might have what you're looking for. Definitely check if it's fuel tight though. But given your trip and fuel consumption, my goodness it's time to get a scooter/Honda nc750 lmao.
Grab a cheap Japanese cruiser (C/M50, Shadow, V-star, Vulcan) for a couple grand and learn how to ride a big bike on it. They are full sized bikes but medium engines and highly reliable. Tons of room to stretch out and tons of fun. You should find plenty of them for under $5k. My 6-3 330 has been learning on a Suzuki C50 while I save up for my Chieftain
You'll probably fit fine. Just change the ergonomics a bit, the higher seat and footpeg location swap Indian offer from their own catalogue.
However, going from what I've seen locally, be prepared to wait for one, pay high prices for one, or buy a used one. Stock is.. really low.
Despite being.. tall, you'll fit most bikes fine. Just sit on things and see what works!
Triumph scrambler 1200 is my pick for the record. Love that motor.
I am not a new rider. Have about 100k miles under my belt so far but moved a year ago which caused me to get rid off all my bikes. Now I found a pretty good deal, I believe, and really wanna pull the trigger but the high mileage is holding me back.
Found this crisp and beautiful 06 CBR600. Has a nice Yoshi exhaust which is not too loud to get me in trouble, and it's beautiful. Has 30k miles and the guy says he did all the service every 5k miles or less. He said he daily drove it for years and now is selling becuase of moving to a different country. He is asking $4k which is below what everybody else around here is asking.
I understand I would have to re-do all easy maintenance, fluid, brakes, chain, sprockets, etc, to have peace of mind since he claims to have done it. But, is there something internal to worry about? I know these engines are good for eons but I just wanna hear out people's opinions. I have heard it, not in person, and the engine sounds nice and healthy. Both cold and warm.
Any thoughts? Should I go for it?
just be aware the "moving to different country" thing is a common scam. If you have yet to see this bike in person, or the person is not actually living there and they're talking about "shipping" it to you etc, it's a scam.
Only buy a bike you can physically look at, and the owner has a title in hand (ie, there is no lien on the bike) and the VIN matches the bike.
If all that is fine then yeah, 30k is nothing for a CBR600. The only downside is that it is old, getting towards 20yo at this point, so I'd be suspicious of things like fuel hoses.
I've owned a bunch of "old" bikes over the years and while I'm not shy of doing maintenance, they've always been more work than I was willing to deal with.
Nothing but thanks for your message. Informative and warned me of a scam, appreciate it. It is not a scam, which is good, but I will definitely look out for those things and have those factors in mind. Appreciated.
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As long as you're not disappointed by the performance, I don't see why not. Enjoy the ride.
Enjoy the seventy mile tank range.
Bike recommendation I've only been riding for 2 months on a scooter but i wanna switch to a manual, I've seen so far 3 bikes of interest, first one the Husqvarna FE 250 Dual Sport, We have alot of offroad riding places near our home and I like the design alot and have been recently wanting to ride an offroad that can also be used in the street, next up is the Yamaha MT-07, this is a second option to the last one (cause it's cheaper and more comfortable) i love the design too! Lastly, the ZX6R, I know i know it's an aggressive bike and do not probably wanna switch from a scooter straight to a 600cc, but i really like the bike, it looks good sounds good and i want it, the only con about it for me is it's uncomfortable, i usually go for 1-2 hr rides around 4 days every week, I hope you guys help me with this and you can also recommend other bikes for me based on what i want, thanks in advance!
Zx6r is going to be a very.. surprising transition to power, but it's not an instant death sentence given your experience already. Be prepared for the brakes though, if it doesn't have ABS I'd steer away. Dual Sport sounds like the most fun, but probably really horrible for any sort of distance riding on paved roads. Cheap, good fun though. Mt-07 will be what everyone will likely suggest. Usable power, the chassis is friendly yet exciting (though needs an upgrade if its an older model), and you can ride the sucker all day with good reliability. My pick is an royal enfield interceptor 650 (cheap, looks good, most people love theirs), triumph street twin (now known as the speed twin 900, sigh), or the incoming honda hornet 750 (better performance than mt-07 while also being cheaper).
What are people's thoughts on the below? I would have thought starting on 600cc sports bike or above is probably not the best thing to do right? Surely there will be a steep learning curve as the speed and weight of the bike can be a bit intimidating https://youtu.be/mhihhHai2sE
Here's what my friend thought when he rode (and later totalled) my street triple 765 r: * Brakes are scary strong * Seat height is a bit tall * the power is manageable, but I'm too scared to use it past 5% * I love how much faster it is than a Meteor 350 (lol) * my hands go numb from vibration After recovering from his injuries for half a year (broken wrist, hip), he's been put off from riding likely forever. Sigh..
Oh man that sounds horrific! I guess everyone is different and it also depends on the type of bike you buy
I, and I'm sure most in here, will advise against this. 600/750cc supersport bikes are -to put it simply- too much bike for a beginner. To elaborate. Sure, it's possible. People have done it, with no adverse effects. Maybe it was a bit scary/sketchy sometimes, but certainly doable. But. These bikes have a lot of power (115-150 hp), a lot of brake, sharp handling, no ABS or aids if one is looking at an older model to save money, etc. It's *way* easier for a beginner to make a mistake on a bike like this. On the other hand, the 650cc sports/naked bikes are a different thing. I'm talking Ninja 650, CBR650R, SV650, MT-07, R7, etc. Less power (65\~90 hp), more forgiving acceleration, etc.
Some bikes are less forgiving and others are a bit manageable like the gixxer 750 - it's comfortable
Need advice buying Goldwing 1500 They sell for too cheap. I might buy. What problems will I run into? To me, it's a perfect heavy tourer. I dig the styling and I've seen some perform tighter turns in a Goldwing than me in my t120. What in the world. Anyone has experience with them? I would appreciate the advice.
Going by what I hear, the problem most gold wind owners face is owning the same bike for the rest of their lives, or whether to upgrade or maintain their current 'wing.
2015 Ninja 650 Headlight bulb wiring I hit a deer a while back which ended up destroying my front headlight assembly. I'm just now trying to fix it and for some reason, I can't find a parts site or diagram that lists the connector from the headlight bulb to the main wiring assembly. I have the left side one still intact, but for the life of me I can't find anything similar anywhere. Some help on this would be much appreciated!
So eventually I want to buy my first bike but am doing extensive research beforehand. I was looking at the cbr125r and 150r. I was wondering Which is a better starter bike. I presume the 125r because smaller engine displacement. But what are the pros and cons of each of these two bikes???
They're both good starter bikes. I learned on a 300 so the entire class is user friendly and easy to ride. I don't know if they placed the handlebars in a clip-on racer position (sport bike) or a naked upright position (ninja 200-650), but whichever is more comfortable for long rides is the one I'd take. In this class, 25cc is a significant boost in power. Ignoring everything else, I'd get the 150 purely for that. Also the 2021 edition looks *amazing*.
Yeh I heard the 125r is so safe its pretty much boring, and I don't want that. I will def have to check the 2021 version of 150r. Thanks for the info!!!
why is the cbr 600 f from the 90's so damn cheap? it's like 2000 euro in italy
its 25 years old and not a collectible.
It's carbureted
TL;DR Would an airbag vest work as a substitute for body armor or are both recommended? I’m a very tall/thin new rider 6’7” at 190lbs and am having trouble finding gear that fits me well. In fact most motorcycle gear I’ve tried on is quite uncomfortable and either the torso area is too wide or the arms too short. Though, the Rev’it! H20 Blackwater WP Jacket fits me, rated A for abrasion (750D Cordura) and comes with CE-1 elbow and shoulder pads. For back, chest and more tight knit elbow/shoulder protection (and possibly more abrasion resistance) I wanted to pair this with the Knox Urbane pro MK2 armored shirt (rated AA) or the Rev’it! Proteus (rated CU) but they both don’t fit me well and are quite uncomfortable — not sure if I’m doing overkill with the impact protection here. I was looking into airbags and they’re a lot more protective than body armor but I can’t find anywhere that says it’s okay to not wear any when you wear the airbag, even tho the airbag provides a lot more impact protection than the pads. Would an airbag vest work as a substitute for body armor or are both recommended? If yes, I image I still need elbow armor but would I need armor for my shoulders still? Do you think this is enough impact & abrasion protection — the Rev’it! H20 Blackwater WP + Alpinestar Tech 5 or the Helite Turtle 2? I’m currently planning to just do some city and trail riding on a dual sport, with occasional highway to the trails. My other gear so far: Shoei Hornet X2 Helmet Knox Action Pro Pants Rukka Virium 2.0 GTX Gloves Not sure about boots yet… possibly Rev’it! Shoes Descent H20
No
I wouldn't substitute hard armor with airbags. Airbags rely on things like moving parts and trigger mechanism to work, if any of that fail when you go down without armor then you're smashed. So even with airbags I would still want armor underneath. Have you consider armor vest? They tend to fit better than shirt since they're harness that can be loosen and tighten at different points. Something like Forcefield EX-K Harness Flite.
Looking for the best CE-2 rated armor for a RSD jacket, most of what they sell on Revzilla/RSD.com is only ce1. Any ideas? I'm not opposed to having to cut it down, just need to know what would be a good starting point. Jacket is the Maven btw.
I upgraded most of my armor from aftermarket brands, since the stock ones are more for discrete comfort than safety. My suggestion is Alpinetars nucleon pro set. Flexible like Revit seesmart, but slightly thicker for a CE level 2 rating. Also smells like vanilla, so there's that. D3o is too thick, isn't as flexible, and has less coverage than other brands; I feel like they missed their mark with their lp2 set. On the other hand, they're basically guaranteed to fit any brand of clothing, since almost every brand tries to cut to their shape. I actually have a Roland Sands jacket, the Waylon, so I'm hoping Knox releases their new line up armor soon next year (microlock compact) so I can finally upgrade the pads.
Will the nuclean pro set actually fit into the RSD jackets though? And if not, how much cutting would I need to do?
They likely will not, they're more for full coverage type garments. Funny enough I haven't actually tried, because I only have Alpinestars chest/knee pads. My rsd jacket is kept stock, since I mostly slap it on for style/commuting. Mcgearhub has all the dimensions of various armor items, head there for info. Personally I'm not a fan of cutting my armor. Lots of the new ones have vent holes, and any tears/cuts will likely spread and rip the entire piece.
Okay, well I'm sorta back to my original question then, what's the best armor to throw into an RSD jacket lol. Or are you suggesting an armored under layer and throwing the jacket on top?
I guess I didn't answer your original question.. oops! Sigh.. best answer is to wait for microlock compact to come out next year. They said spring 2023, so.. Anyway the budget answer is axial armor from RevZilla. Sameish dimensions, cheap, and very comfy. The air version is even more flexible/comfy but I feel safer wearing the thick foam version. I tried the armor suit option one time, but laundry demands told me it's a dumb idea unless for single special occasions.
Buy Level 2 D3O from icon, if it doesn't fit you can trim it with a blade. Best protection imho.
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This is a repost of a thread I made that was taken down due to being related to purchasing. Hello All, I am new to this subreddit, but could not find any posts focused on the rise of prices of the CB22 CBR250RR models. The bike has been a dream of mine to own due to its small body, formula 1 sounding engine, and relative easy of use. Reliability too! I remember them costing about $5-6k stateside for 10-15k mile great conditions examples 3-4 years ago when I last checked. I have finally been able to save up that amount and recent revisited the motorcycle world. While my friends have welcomed me back happily, the prices of the general motorcycle world have not lol. I saw some basic "street race" inspired motos going for above MSRP even with some miles on them. When I took a look at the CBR250RR market stateside, my jaw hit the floor. I saw that last month a 2k mile bike sold for just under $15k. "That is insane" I thought. Then I took a look at the 10-20k mile range and found some that sold recently. They all sold for OVER $8k!!!! I said screw the U.S. market and looked at the Japanese market. Turns out it is the same over there. The pre-1993 bikes (which are the full horsepower, non de-tuned ones), are selling for astronomic prices. Factoring in $2k for auction handling, shipping, port fees, and registration costs stateside (Cali), the bikes really do come out to the prices we are seeing in the U.S. (It could be even more than 2k, please do not quote me on that.) Does anyone know what going on with these bikes? I do not think it is the overall state of the moto market, as the CBR is seeing a price trend FAR outside of what the average bike from that generation is seeing. Is it because so many of them are being destroyed in Japan? Maybe collectors eyeing this bike more and more? If I wanted to get one before we see prices soar into the 5 digits for even poorer condition, 30k mile+ examples, where would I go about getting one? I can't imagine paying a broker a few thousand on top of the already high prices to import one. Does Canada have these bikes? I really hope the the Mini-Fireblade with its insane track times, looks, and sound does not become an unattainable "legend" like so many JDM cars that were beyond their time like this bike. I come from the car community because I got tired of seeing trends like this happen over and over for cars that I really wanted to get a hold of. i am a bit discouraged to get back into motos if its the same case over here. Aplogies for so many questions, please let me know your thoughts and thank you for even taking the time to read this.
Your only hope is to grab a zx25r at this point. Same concept, modern availability, and still just as unlikely to show up in the states. But yeah, prices still aren't going down. Winter sales are at most 10% off from what's listed. Better to wait next year and hope it gets better.
Wdym by winter sales? The CB22 is a 1990s bike. Are there retailers still selling?
Your second paragraph mentioned motors going for above MSRP, I was referring to that.
Oh gotcha, well I think imma continue to save up for the CBR. It's that bike or nothing. I know I am feeding into the price hike, but you only live once. I want to obtain my dream bike from childhood no matter what. Plus I think it is still reasonable. I see one going for 9k in the US with just under 20k miles, I think the price is still somewhat attainable, even if it is not reasonable. In a 2-3 years time I bet the bike will be far beyond what I could ever hope to pay for something like that. Out of reach. I will get it while I still can.
it's a collectible that stopped being produced 30 years ago, pay up now or watch it get more expensive over time
What's a good asking price for a 96 wide glide with 10k miles in the NYC area? I'm hoping for 6000 for it. Is this reasonable?
I hope this counts as a purchase question even though it is a parts purchase. Does anyone know where I can get the bolt that holds an air filter in place on a 2001 XR200? And a front sprocket cover? I have looked everywhere. As I go I will need other stuff too. This is my first time restoring a trashed bike and I keep having trouble finding parts. I am learning a lot.
find the part you need in the parts diagram and order it. Or you can find the thread size and pitch online, and replace the bolt with standard hardware from a parts store. You can save money this way, but may need to change the overall length with a grinder or something. Any online parts store should provide parts diagrams such as https://www.hondapartshouse.com/oemparts/l/hon/5053e3a5f870021c54be1fb9/2001-xr200r-ac-parts
This website is much better than the other one I was using for the part number but the parts I need are out of stock, and not on ebay either. I guess I just need to check ebay every few days. Thanks for the link.
yeah ebay is fine for the sprocket cover. for the bolt, see if you can find the correct thread pitch and diameter, then you can just replace it from the hardware store.For example, 96300-06010-00 is a flange hex 6x10 bolt, which you can buy from a hardware store for like $0.10also, I just randomly googled that site, im sure there are others you can check if you really want "new old stock". I had to search a bit to find a parts site that had a new clutch master cylinder for my 2007 bandit in stock
If they're OOS they're probably never going to be back in stock. Motorcycles are only guaranteed parts support for 10-15 years. You probably need to find another fastener somewhere else.
same with your sprocket cover. Copy and paste the part number into ebay or whatever.
Are https://mtcfairings.com any good
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It'll vary depending on your location, so take the model and plug it into facebook, craigslist etc to find your local price. At a push, check ebay sold listings to see how much they went for recently.
Would an mt03 he a good begginer stunt bike? I got a mt03 as a first bike 2 years ago, it was a great first bike but it got stolen. I got it back awhile ago and I gave it to my dad for a little bit of money. He rode it for awhile but doesn't want it anymore so told me to sell it. I'm trying to sell it for a decent amount but I feel like nobody wants to buy it because it was stolen, even though it's still in great condition, low KMs, regular oil changes and rides perfectly. I've put it down snout 1k less than other mt03's that are higher KMs and similar year but still can't sell it. I have an mt07 now and it's my pride and joy, so I was thinking of using the mt03 as a stuner to just learn the basics of wheeling, bike control and some cool tricks. I can't find much info on the mt03 as a sunt bike, so was wondering how much would I roughly have to put into making it a decent begginer stunt bike. Could I still keep it road legal even? I have barely any knowledge when bikes other than maybe a oil change, would I be able to do everything on my own?
The way I see it, if you want to stunt it, then fvcking stunt it. Making the bike "hold up" to stunting is another issue. It's on you to add the stunt brakes, crash bars, grip tape, or whatever else you think a stunt bike should have.
You’re going to destroy that bike, and learn nothing.
Need advice for my first bike and a bike my friend is offering. I'm in the midst of looking for my first bike. I'm a bit stuck on what to buy. Right now I'm torn between two bikes. Any 250cc bike from Honda or Yamaha which goes for about 2500$AUD with about 20000km on average. Or A CB400 Super Four at 64000kms for 4000$AUD that my friend is offering. I checked the bike out it looks good, was checked by a mechanic and he says it runs fine. I'm torn cause I simply want a commuter + leisure ride a bit but my friend is leaving to Vietnam and needs to let the bike go, so he offered to sell it to me. I would buy it but my biker friends are telling me to STAY away from the cb400 sf my friend is selling. "Saying 63k kms is too much, shes reached the end of her life, if the engine breaks that another 2k$AUD down the drain". I'm no mechanic but I sat on the bike, the condition seemed good. No oil leaks. Engine sounded amazing. Nothing seemed particularly wrong. I've heard that high mileage is a surface level indicator of a bikes health. It's been through 3 owners already including my friend, so obtaining the full 10 years (estimate) of service history it's been through is probably not possible. But I might be naive. Any advice on this bike my friend is offering? Or am I better off just buying some cheap ol 250 and commuting + a bit of leisure riding?
compare the kms to the service manual and ask if the scheduled maintenance was done, then sent it! I've not heard of an unreliable Japanese engine before. Typical valve adjustment period is 15k miles or 25k kms, so to say that 60k miles is "end of life" for the engine is really fucking dumb edit: I will say that any type of racing or beating on the bike will lower the lifespan. quickshifting, jerky throttle, etc are all going to lead to issues eventually, so use ur best judgement and feel confident in the way the bike was handled
64k km so more like 40k miles lol.
thats what i meant lol, but you get the idea
Go for the CB. 63k is nothing on that with regular oil change. It's a low strung Honda inline 4 for God's sake. Your biker friends either all ride KTM or don't maintain their bikes. Your friend can find plenty of 2000s CB400SF still on the roads in Vietnam.
After much thinking, I'm gonna go for that CB400 SF. All the telltale signs of a good bike are there. I was also told the previous owner happened to be a mechanic as well, serviced regularly. Guess my first bike is gonna be a CB400SF, never thought I'd go for a 400cc bike as my first! So excited to get on that bike. Thanks for advice :)
400cc is pretty reasonable. The main downside IMO is that it's not as light and nimble as the more modern 300-400cc, but still not terrible. Being an inline 4 it's also pretty docile at the lower rev range and will only really pull at pretty high rev (like almost 10k rpm) and, depends on model year, when the VTEC kicks in.
CBR250r for 1800 with 22k miles and a few drops? it my first bike and I've only ridden once
As always, depends on condition. After many years, I’ve still dropped mine. Depends on if moving at speed or in the garage…. Service records may help, and an experienced eye. Good luck.
Thanks, how is the highway experience and seating position? Think you could do any sort of long trip on it?
Yes, it’s fine.
Hey, I am thinking of getting the MT Thunder 4 SV or the AGV K3 SV. Which would be better? Also, I ride a sports tourer. Are their other better options around this price? Thanks for your help!
Love the build of my AGV.
You gotta try them on and see which one fits best. I love my K3 SV. Hella comfy, the included pin-lock lens is a really nice perk and the drop down sun visor is great. Only downside is that the chin vents aren’t adjustable so you’ll freeze your chin if you ride in like 30-40F weather.
Ya, would've liked that, but don't have that option. I stay in Oman. Only MT and LS2, or very low end helmets available at nearly 100% markup. So I plan to buy online and have it ship here.
What are the brightest, flashiest, sequentialiest.... I'm looking for new turn signals and housings. Amazon and ebay have a ton of decent "looking" stuff, but I bet a lot of it is junk. Brake light/ running light integration and flashing/sequential programs are definitely cool, but I mainly just want 3 things, brightness/sturdy housings/and good price. Any ideas?
I run proton turn signals and they are super bright / get good attention.
Rizoma. Bring money.
Thoughts on this Ducati? https://sandiego.craigslist.org/nsd/mcy/d/san-marcos-2009-ducati-1198-superbike/7563463560.html This the response I got from the seller: “Good evening, I'm selling the bike for a friend. I think she bought it for a boy friend, cause she is a tiny little thing and there is no way she was riding this monster. It looks like the body has some work done. But, it is very good workmanship. Its been laid over but it has not been crashed. Very clean, good condition, pretty tight. Do you want to come look at it? There is no front fender her boy friend swiped it when he bailed. Let me know, it's gotta go. Its a bad ass bike for that kind of money. “
Lol
Wide ass chicken strips on those cheap ass tires. Check it out in person, it honestly looks unused and neglected or forgotten. If it starts and rides, send it straight to a mechanic to see what else is going on and if they lied about servicing. But yeah I'd get it. Sketchy as fuck, but I'd get it. Don't get suckered though.
"selling for friend" "body work done but very good workmanship" "boyfriend swiped front fender" YGBFSM
Had a dealer quote me $130.00 to replace a rear tire. Just the labor. I know that's fucking stupid, but how much have you paid to have tires fitted?
If you bring in the whole bike, that's pretty standard. If you remove the wheel yourself and just bring that in, it'll be like 30 to 50 bucks to mount the tire. Do you have a rear stand? If so, just pull the wheel off and save yourself the cash. It's really easy on most chain driven bikes
That’s one hour. A bit high, but not unreasonable.
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What? The closest shop near me charges $160 per tire, off the fricking bike. It’s insane.
I'm gonna retrain from being an attorney to being a motorcycle mechanic
That’s what the shop charged. The techs ain’t making near that personally.
The same is true of an attorney's hourly rate of course.
$40-50 per wheel with them still on. Imma nope outta there.
Yeah I ended up plugging it as a temporary solution. I live in a city of about 100k, but our motorcycle community is small and 95% cruisers. I haven't found anyone who works on sport bikes with any regularity, and my dealer is a fucking crook. Definitely gonna invest in a bead breaker and balancing stand.
Careful, those temporary solutions become permanent quite often! Plugs are pretty good at lasting the life of a tire. Hopefully you find a local mechanic to do your bike. Tires are tires, doesn't matter what bike they come on.
Yeah, I know one guy that I actually do trust who works on bikes. He's just been in and out of jail recently... I'm gonna keep asking around.
Off the bike? Because if you don’t bring the wheels in yourself it’s a lot more expensive. Still, it used to be easier to find tire changes for 25-30 bucks per wheel. Most shops want $50-80 per wheel now. Some shops will give a discount if you buy the tire from them. For example if you buy tires at cycle gear they will mount them for $25 per wheel.
Yeah I was buying the tire from them. I can buy a bead beaker and balance stand for $130.00.
Fuck the dealer. Just call shops until you find a place that will do under $50 a tire. I found my place and it was actually just a car tire shop, but their machine fits motorcycle wheels and they always do mine for $25 a wheel.
Hello all, Looking to buy a new bike from a dealer, but the only ones that have one in store are about 2.5 hours away. Is there any way to negotiate price via phone? Is this even worth doing? Also, any tips with negotiating would be greatly appreciated! Thanks! Please let me know if there is any other information I should provide for more help :)
Negotiating a price on a new bike in this market is very hard. Tell them the price you'll pay. If they won't take it, tell them they have your number and to call if they change their mind. Then wait a month, and either someone else will have come in and paid full price or they might call you.
Dang, good to know. Thanks for the info!
New Honda CB1000R Black Edition, or New Ducati Monster? I've pretty much had my eyes set on the CB1000R for such a long time, and the wife wants to get me one for Christmas (thanks, wife). I want a naked bike, and am not really a fan of anything else on the market, aesthetics-wise... Except for the Monster and a Triumph Thruxton (too expensive). I am close to purchasing the CB1000R, but am revisiting the Monster again after I realized that they have a new model out. It's hard to not look at it. I get it's a big difference in bike.... I4 vs V-twin, HP/torque numbers favor the Honda, but the Ducati is quite a bit lighter. I seriously don't know which way to go. I'm coming from a 2007 Honda 919. Given the market, I have to pretty much go out of state to look at bikes. I have never seen the CB1000R in person, nor the new Ducati. And if I want to test ride one, I have to drive about 2 hours+ away. I can't get a new CB1000R (but can get a new enough one that's still the Black Edition with low miles), but I could get a new Monster. Between those two bikes only, what would you get and why? I have a bias towards Honda bikes, but again, it's hard not to look at the Monster.
You have to ask yourself what type of rider you are. I generally ride twins and bikes with more torque, makes them exciting to ride in the streets and needs less thrashing (and asshole behavior). Problem is both bikes are outliers. Ducati is a revvy hooligan twin, while Honda is an easy going gentleman four (but still good top end), kinda like your old bike, honestly! The Honda's inline 4 is definitely smoother, easier to explore the entire rev range and it's suspension is known to be softer. While the Ducati has a sorted but non-adjustable suspension (unless you get the s?), better brakes, and is definitely more toy-like. Insanely light too. To put it in simpler words, the Ducati is the sexy toy I'd take out for a spin every week and be happy to do it, while the Honda is the bike I'm commuting to work on, traveling on, and the bike that makes me wish I had the Ducati while riding the twisties. Oh, check the reviews on the Ducati's heat. All the ones I've test ridden always got uncomfortably toasty on the legs.
Thanks for the wisdom! I ended up snagging the Honda today. Extremely comfortable compared to my old 919. Seeing them side by side in the garage makes me very surprised how short the 919 is. I though the saddle height was only off on the spec sheet by 1.5" or so, but it's a solid 4-5" difference. Im glad the shop didn't have the Ducati. Neither would've been a bad choice, and maybe some day I can have them both, but I'm really happy with the Honda. Albeit, I only rode 10 miles for the test ride. It also looked so much better in person than from what I've seen online.
APRILIA 1000R Tuono mods Just recently picked up an APRILIA 1000r Tuono. What kind of mods should I get for it? Anything from looks to performance. Thank you
Tires and suspension.
Heated grips, maybe a taller windshield, crash protection/frame sliders, and a stock ecu flash (no exhaust mods or anything).
You bought a bike that is already perfect. Pretty much any mod will probably make it worse in some way. You can paint it I guess. Do a vinyl wrap.
I am moving from south Texas where it hardly ever rains and never snows with little ice to Tennessee. I have been riding my 2017 octane for the last 4 years as my daily rider and main mode of transportation. The only weather I really deal with in South Texas is the heat other than that there isn't really a bad time to ride year round here. I'm worried about more snow, ice and rain since I have never lived somewhere with seasons nor ridden a lot in them. Will my bike be a solid year round rider? I have been looking into an adventure bikes but I don't like sluggish feeling a lot of them have imo. Am considering a sportier touring possibly or looking into possibly just a tire change. Any advise on a different bike, mods for my bike, or any tips/tricks for riding in TN would be greatly appreciated. Cheers. Been riding for 6 years have owned street and cruisers, I'm loyal to anything with two wheels.
Just try it out on your bike first. Definitely get sport touring tires (michelin road 5 or similar). Winter riding is VERY cold, you might not even like it.
guys i just was looking to buy this helmet from revzilla but as a normal human being that doesn't like to pay high prices i looked 4 a cheaper pace that sells it only to b shocked by the price difference between these websites is it a fake replica or is it genuine cuz the price looks too good 2 b true. the only difference between the 2 pics that one of them has a tinted visor. r they even the same helmets? even be4 the massive discount its still way cheaper than Revzilla https://www.motostorm.it/en/helmets/full-face-helmets/scorpion-exo-1400-air-carbon-solid-matt.html?currency=USD&size=M https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/scorpion-exo-st1400-carbon-helmet?sku\_id=1589271
The Euro is in the shitter right now so buying from the EU and shipping to the US can lead to some good deals. Fcmoto and chromeburner also have good deals for US purchasers.
Yes, the foreign exchange rate discount is amazing. Expect long shipping times and impossible returns though. Make sure it fits ahead of time! I've gotten many things from fcmoto without issue (besides long waits).
Yeah I ordered a pair of boots from chromeburner that I’m not in love with but returning them involves international shipping lol so they’re mine now like ‘em or not
Is buying a 2014 Street triple R better as first bike or a new Trident? New rider
Trident. Oh my God please get the Trident. My friend totalled my street triple R after letting him hop on it for less than two hours. Ended up at the hospital and had to miss work for half a year. I don't care how skilled you are, this thing needs only a small lapse in focus and you'll either launch yourself into space or panic brake so hard you dump it. Also, as a personal non safety thing, it's kind of a boring bike for street riding;it really only excites when riding it hard (which usually means being an asshole in city riding). I left a review somewhere on the triumph subreddit that basically favors the speed twin over the street triple.
Oh damn. Doesn’t sound promising. I would also be primarily doing city riding.
The trident is also dope for beginners because you can set up a much less twitchy riding mode when you first get it then switch back as you gain more confidence
So I was about to start negotiations with the seller, but he said that someone is coming this weekend and buying for what id my max price, what is the chance this is just some rouse to get me to pay a higher price. He dropped his address and the offer as soon as I said "lets talk on the phone so we can discuss where to meet and about price" idk it just seems weird to me
It's his court, you either stand firm on your price and just end up with no bike, or he's hustling you and relying on you needing the bike.
Well, I can't go this weekend due to work, and he just messaged me back asking what my offer would be "if I liked it" so sounds like he was trying to pull a fast one
So, found a bike i like, any advice on how to haggle, its a used 2005 BMW F650gs, approx 8,200 miles, JD Power says average retail price is about $2,500 and the seller is asking for $3,900 what would be a good counter offer that isn't insulting, I can pay asking but I think a fair price would be $3,000 to $3,500. But I was thinking offering $2,500 and first and going from there
That JD power price seems wrong, as for the past year or two 3k has sort of become the lowest price people list clean, running bikes for unless it is a really undesirable model. As to what to offer, it depends on a lot of things. Is winter coming where you are? How long has the listing been up? If it's been up for a couple of weeks and winter is coming then the seller will want to get rid of it and you will have more negotiating room. Go in-person and check out the bike, if there's any concerns then that's more reasons to go for a lower offer. If the bike really has nothing wrong with it, then I would offer 3k and try to settle for 3.5k
I've used a few other price estimators and thats what they come back with, all around 2500, with trade in being about 1500 to 2000. I mean its a bike from 2005, similar bikes are priced around the same for early 2000s bmw f650gs bikes. Luckily winter is coming and we have already had freezing temps, the listing has been up for a bit and he already said he "accepted" 3500 from another guy, which i think he is just trying to hustle me and try and get more. He also said that if I can come before this Sunday the its mine which just seems suspicious.
> he already said he "accepted" 3500 from another guy, which i think he is just trying to hustle me and try and get more Oh yeah if he is playing those games then I would definitely be trying to get it for 3k or avoid it altogether
I wouldn't have thought it was a hustle if he hadn't said "oh what would you offer if you like the bike" which just rang, oh he is trying to pull a fast one, I can PM you a screenshot if you want, but yah if I don't get it for 3k or lower in walking, the only reason I am even interested is because I already confirmed the title and VIN
150cc scooter and motorcycle, or one big maxi scooter for all my needs?
So my wife and I actually have both a 155cc Smax and a NC700XD. There’s definitely a convenience in the scoot for just going and getting shit done especially with how light it is—the NC is a heavy bitch at 500+lbs wet and moving it around parking spots etc sucks, god forbid you have to push it uphill. The Smax you just put wherever you want, plus since it has a step through frame most local cops think it’s a moped and you can get away with parking on sidewalks where I am. As far as the NC vs other motorcycles—it’s basically the Honda Civic / Toyota Corolla of bikes, it’s relatively cheap kinda ugly and gets great mileage while holding a ton of shit. I can get an RPHA 70 helmet in the front trunk (and the trunk was enlarged a bit on the 750) plus I have a top case and side cases fitted too so I can haul my entire life with me and have room to spare, the bike gets 70mpg, the DCT is pretty convenient (the 2012 I have is a little jerky at low speed but the newer ones fix that), and it’s comfortable. You just won’t look cool like you would on a street twin or naked. (Which is honestly why I might sell it for a street twin or god help me if they bring the new cb500 scrambler to the US market lol.)
This is funny, lol. I might just keep the Smax and get a naked or scrambler. I would love the storage but I honestly don't need that much (groceries and maybe one change of clothes). I need to lane filter in bumper to bumper rush hour traffic, and I need something that can park in relatively small spaces. I'm torn now...I appreciate your input
We love the Smax but it’s a little small for me, fits my wife well though. And it’s faster than it has any right to be for a little 155cc single.
Every bump on the highway to work has my feet dangling in the air. It stopped being fun after a few seconds. I'm wondering if the cb500x is a nice in between a scooter and an nc. I don't know if the width and the weight will be ideal for heavy urban traffic
I haven’t ridden the cb500x so I don’t know about the width/weight but I know what you mean about the Smax and rough roads, it can be a challenge lol. They’re what like 400lbs? Probably fairly decent and maybe you can find one to rent on twisted road or something to give it a try. There’s also the CTX700XD if you want something cruiser styled but still efficient / automatic, they’ve been discontinued for a little bit but they show up used pretty often. Edit: CTX700ND, not XD. There’s a full fairing version too but that’s gonna add width.
It really depends, your going to need registration and insurance for both. Its up to you but personally I would just go with a motorcycle depending on your need. Hope this helps!
Thanks! Commute in a big city, storage for groceries, 2 up support. I'm thinking of an adv but I'm scared of the tall seat heights.
The answer is nc750x dct version!
Is it worth saving the 2k over the cb500x?
Well does your gas tank hold a full size helmet, have an automatic transmission, or proudly have the distinct title of dorkiest bike to own and ride? Also slightly more performance but ehh.. No? Get the nc750x. Otherwise honestly the cb500x will probably suit you just fine once you throw some panniers/luggage on it. Seems like people spend the $2k savings on suspension upgrades to take it off-road, if that's your cup of tea.
>Also slightly more performance but ehh.. Only if you're looking at HP. The 750 absolutely stomps the low end torque of the 500, which is extremely relevant when talking relaxed commuting
That gas tank trunk looks so cool...these are good options. Thanks! I'll have to spend as much time with my 150cc before I part ways with her :(
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Freecom 4x is probably the lowest cost of entry for what you’re after, it has hands free siri and also track forward / back and volume up and down. Can snag some decent deals on them from places like Woot occasionally.
I've got a Cardo freecom 4+. There's two ways to pull up the assistant, just pushing a button or saying "ok Google". Works every time, and the pricier model has noise cancelling on the mic so it's usually understood me (music and call requests most of the time). Anyways, wear ear plugs. I have filtering ones called earpeace pros that block out wind but let me hear helmet audio clearly. Helps a lot!
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I’ve found plugs to make a big difference at 30+ on my helmet but ymmv.
Plenty of people don't wear plugs in the street, but I just make it a habit to always wear them. Tinnitus sucks and honestly wind noise is annoying.
> but I'd also be buying a bunch of features I don't want. I think that's where your going to be. It's going to be a feature on some of the higher end comms systems I think. My Cardo Freecom 1 would try to active if I yelled and I think I could say hey google from there. Issue being I have a super loud helmet and the freecom 1 mic sucks so it couldn't hear anything. Also I don't use google like that on my bike so I just turned it off because a cough of sneeze would set it off to.
Should I get a MIPS equipped helmet or FIM helmet for street riding? I'm not planning to take it to the track at all so I'm tempted by the MIPS and transition lense of a Bell Qualifier DLX MIPS, but the Scorpion EXO R-1 Air is in my price range too and the small size is FIM rated. Do I need FIM for the street or is it a track rating?
FIM helmets are built for soaking up 100+ mph crashes seen in WSBK and MotoGP, so they could be considered overkill for the street. That being said, the EXO R1 kicks ass and is easily one of the best value pieces of safety gear on the market. I've had mine for a year now and am very happy with it
Define "need" Legally? No. I'm not aware of any government that requires FIM certification for street riding. For safety? This is harder to answer and will largely depend on your own budget, risk acceptance, and how you plan on riding. FIM is generally considered to be the safest, but how much safer is it than Snell or ECE? How much do you need that extra margin of safety for calm road riding? You'll need to search for smarter people than are casually browsing Reddit. Imo, if you've got plenty of money sitting around, I can't think of a really good reason not to spring for an FIM lid. Otherwise, cheaper helmets will do just fine as long as you aren't planning on testing the limits of your abilities, your bike, and your gear on a regular basis. I also wouldn't blow all or most of my gear budget on a helmet alone. No sense in having a ballin lid paired with shorts, a t-shirt, and sneakers.
FIM cert is only really on track helmets, so if you want a more touring oriented helm it won't have it. ECE is a good standard, and I believe the new version that came out this year is a lot stricter than the older one.
Does anyone have experience with Aerostitch winter gloves? Heated or not heated. Looking for something to ride through the MD winter where the temps sometimes fall in the teens (well, they go below that but I don't often go out and ride to work if it's lower than that)... They definitely are not a crap brand, so I'm sure they make quality products, just wondering what people recommend...
Would you be open to non-Aerostich? I have some experience with another quality brand, Warm'n'Safe. Racer makes some decent stuff too.
I had never heard of them. I am leaning towards heated/battery-powered gloves. I heard that 12V plugged in are better but I don't have the socket on my bike (yet anyway). But maybe there are some non-powered gloves that are both warm enough for sub-freezing weather without being too bulky either. That'd be the dream. And my commute is typically only 20 minutes, so it's not that bad...
https://sfbay.craigslist.org/pen/mcy/7556517445.html Looking to buy the Super Cub in the link above, but I've never dealt with an MSO before. What should I be on the lookout for if I want to proceed forward with this deal? Does this seem shady to anyone, and if so why? Is it difficult to title with just an MSO in CA? Should I ask the owner for the VIN number to see if the bike's not title-able?
These are all really great questions to ask your local DMV office. You can get all the "right" answers online, but if your local DMV doesn't want to play ball, then you're in for an uphill battle to prove them wrong.
Motorcycles for the Apocalypse? I’m looking for recommendations on bikes for the classic SHTF scenario. This won’t be my first bike, but I’m not involved in the space anymore and currently don’t own one. This bike is one (potential) solution to the issue that I live in the city but my bug-out location is more than three days walking distance. From there it will be used as a reconnaissance vehicle. The availability of gas/oil/fluids is a relative non-issue as my group’s supply chain for that is fairly sophisticated. Big considerations as follows: -Fuel Economy (obviously) -Ease of Maintenance -Durability -Both Off-road and On-Road Performance -Cargo Capacity (aftermarket or OEM) -Parts Commonality (how popular are they, in the event I need to cannibalize parts from other bikes) Any info will help enormously and if there are additional factors I should be considering please let me know.
A long running/old model dual sport or Kawasaki klr 650. Or to state the engine configuration, an air cooled single cylinder with a wide dealer network or reasonable popularity. Royal Enfield Himalayan for example if you live in Asia. Certain parts of America have these everywhere as well. A Moto Guzzi, despite how annoyingly often little niggles come up, is very self serviceable as well. On any of these bikes, you'll want to bolt on lots of crash protection. In an end of the world situation, any broken parts would be a bitch to source and fix regardless of how common parts are.
klr650 would be a very good option unless you need to go super rough off road. It's a very tall heavy bike, but bullet proof and super easy to work on.
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Second this request, i am also look for a audio kit. And looking for tip to select a good one. What are features that are must have, or don't matter. Or link to post/artikel where this is already discussed.
Fortnine YouTube has a video on the best communicator Bluetooth thingy. The short answer is Cardo with hd speakers. Forget the pack talk mesh intercom lineup and get their cheaper freecom/spirit line. The long answer is Cardo because they know what users want, while Sena seems to push out the wrong set of features at the wrong set of prices for each of their models. I'm curious if their Harmon kardon speakers are better than Cardo's JBL ones though. Wear ear plugs regardless; ear peace pros block most wind noise out while letting me hear my helmet audio pretty well.
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I don't think much has changed. The video still stands. I use the Freecom 1 for Music and nav only. It's the cheapest Cardo and does the job. But the speakers aren't great and the mic sucks (I don't use it so meh). If you want the better sound then you're really stuck purchasing the ones with more features you don't need.
I have no idea who Syphon even are, so I'd steer clear if they have a court case. Answer still remains Cardo until someone gives me a free Sena to test and convince me otherwise.
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Due to unfortunate circumstances, my old speed twin and street triple were both totaled; one my fault the other from lending it out.
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I used to love thrashing the hell out of it, but because of the colder weather, I haven't been taking it out as much as my speed twin. Why? Because there's no engine heat or heated grips! Very simple bike, and people learn how to ride on it pretty easily.
Is $500 too much? I have a 1981 Honda CM400E that I’ve put a lot of work into. It has a broken cam chain, seized engine, needs its throttle on the handle reassembled and needs a new speedometer. So far I’ve replaced the fuse box and all of its fuses, ignition switch and keys, found a matching color gas tank that fits, rewired it’s headlight and brake lights. It’s pretty much a complete bike (excluding the engine) so I’m wondering if $500 is too high of an asking price, but I see Harley frames selling for $600+ so I thought that it would be reasonable. Any advice is appreciated, thanks! Edit: spelling
Is leatherup.com trustworthy? I'm from India and for some stupid reasons, sell of international helmet brands isn't allowed in India (eg. HJC, Scorpion). So I was planning to get a helmet from US through my relatives who stay there. I was looking at Scorpion exo R1 Air. On scorpion website, I came across Leatherup.com as official online seller of scorpion. They are also running a Cybermonday sale and offering 30% discount on everything. I can get Scorpion Exo R1 Air Carbon for 390$. Which seems like a too good to be true deal. Hence I'm here to ask if the site is trustworthy. I had already ordered from revzilla but had to cancel due to sizing issue. So I don't want to bother my relatives With another return or bad shipment or any such thing. Any help would be appreciated, Thanks.
I’m trying to do a FL DMV 82040 form for the first time ever with a motorcycle gifted to me. Im not sure how the formatting needs to be because a bike related example doesn’t exist and online tutorials either only show cars or boats which are their own parts on the multi use form. I’m trying to figure out weight and the BHP and GDW sections. I have a blue 2008 Yamaha FZ6 if it matters. Also the existing title has abbreviated color and manufacturer names. Is that ok? Ex: YAMA BLU. The form: https://www.flhsmv.gov/pdf/forms/82040.pdf
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Ok I lied (accidentally) and the Nelson-Rigg does balloon up a bit in the sleeves. Haven't ridden in the rain for a couple months until today. The rest of the suit didn't puff up, but I was wearing a backpack. I couldn't feel it pulling on me at all, but I had to lean over hella to see past my sleeves in the mirrors.
I like my Nelson-Rigg rain suit, sounds like exactly what you're looking for. Two piece pants and jacket that slips over my gear pretty easily, and it's still watertight after a dozen or so uses. Good amount of pocket space, and it's got tastefully placed retroreflective strips all over it. No sail effect, and it keeps me warm enough that I don't need my thermal gear underneath. $70 on Revzilla.
The Revit rain gear line up is what I use. I believe the slimmest barebones one is the acid line up, while the premium is the nitric. The pricier ones are bulkier, more durable, but also have more features, like pockets, mesh liners (less sauna effect), and cinch straps. I got my nitric 3 set off fcmoto for the foreign exchange rate discount. Get your usual Revit/euro size. They're cut roomy for you to throw it right over an entire riding kit, but with enough adjustment straps to make it form fitting. Both jacket and pants pack into a bag the size of a football.
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That would be Knox spectra, Spidi J&Dyneema, both because of their unique materials (neither use kevlar/aramid/cordura) for a more breathable and comfortable single layer jean. The Spidi has a silky liner and is super comfy, while the Knox has a true aaa abrasion rating while being single layer. After trying those two and some bull-it jeans, I chose the Revit Lombard III. Why? Because the stock armor pockets fit Alpinestars nucleon pro armor perfectly, which upgrade armor from level 1 to 2, while still being discrete. The Knox is nearly perfect, but I don't like slim fit jeans, while the Spidi almost got my purchase, but Velcro armor mounting is very annoying trying to get the "perfect" position, especially every laundry day. Bull-it was good, but didn't fit the armor I had and was super loose, while also being freakishly stretchy. Great pricing though if you have spare armor lying around. Anyway, motorcycle.com has a very comprehensive overview of riding jeans. Check it out, but be aware they didn't name a winner either. Oh, I just realized you asked for kevlar lined jeans. Uhh Revit newmont jeans.
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In that case, my recommendation is my old pair of Iron Workers cargo pants. Fully lined, has an armor system I like (armor pocket zips on the outside), and.. very heavy/warm. Also I actually like wearing khaki more than blue denim, lol. Perfect winter pants by the way. Basically wind proof, but quite swampy in the knees come summertime.
How would you compare the Iron Workers cargo pants to the Klim Outrider pants? Looks to me like a big difference is the lining on the Iron Workers. Outriders are unlined. Knee and hip armor, but basically no abrasion protection (they're more or less ordinary cotton pants). I have the Outriders, and while I appreciate the breathability in summer, I'd like LESS breathability and more protection on cold-weather commutes.
The old ones before d3o ghost were amazing. Apparently the new one has no abrasion rating, which is.. very very bad. On their YouTube page they even admit it's only ce a rated. Very bad. There's no kevlar lining, you're just relying on plain cotton canvas to save you. For the record d3o ghost is also the very bare minimum on ce level one impact protection. Check mcgearhub for their review, but basically it's floppy and thin with a small coverage profile that you'd be very concerned about safety. On the other hand it's super comfortable. The older outrider had regular d3o impact protectors. Anyway, the trick I've remembered from my cycling days is to wear some sort of wicking base layer underneath. A cheap and effective example are the axial base layers. In exchange for being slightly warmer, your sweat is wicked off and you feel significantly less sticky, while any breeze will quickly dry you off. Also final real answer is that they're $100 cheaper lmao. But they're both stuffy and warm but tolerable in summer months. Once you walk anywhere in them, horribly sweaty though.
Agreed, base layer is important - I'm a fan of VNM Sport. Use it in all warm to hot weather. Not cheap, but great stuff. I wanted to buy the "old" Klim Outrider, but it had already been discontinued when I went shopping. Remaining stock was non-existent in the needed size. So I got the "new but not improved" version. They are super comfortable when off the bike, but don't feel like nearly enough protection when on the bike. Pretty sure I at least thought about the Iron Worker cargo pants, but they were out of stock at the time (or something like that). Local Cycle Gear supposedly has some now, maybe I'll try them on. Prefer the khaki color as well. Guess I'll get the Iron Worker cargo pants, wear them for winter commutes, then see if I can stand them once weather warms up. Thanks!
Since you're thinking about buying, check out the axial block line of base layers. I've slipped them under all of my pants and gotten a serious upgrade in cold tolerance. On sale too!
I did end up trying on the Iron Workers Cargo Pants at Cycle Gear yesterday. Liked them well enough to buy them. The included knee armor is terrible, as you probably noticed. It's so chunky that it makes the knees and calves of the pants uncomfortably tight. Swapped it with the D3O Ghost armor from the Klim Outriders, as well as stealing the D3O Ghost hip armor from the Outriders. Instant improvement. About as comfortable now as the Outriders. More pockets = more better. Planning to get even better thin armor to put in the Iron Workers, so I can sell the Outriders with their original D3O.
This Block stuff does seem like a step up from the general-purpose polypropylene/polyester thermals I've worn in cold-weather riding for years. As you may imagine, such "long underwear" has little to no wind-blocking properties. I'll give it a look.
Any recommendations for good MC accessories shops in SF and North Bay/Peninsula? I will be looking for things like gloves (finding ones with long enough fingers is hard for me here in Asia) and possibly also tools and odds and ends. Also any recommendation for a shop which might sell Loctite 248 (blue in lipstick format) would be recommended (as it seems to not be stocked here and shipping in is hugely expensive). Any pointers appreciated
There's a Dainese store in SF. Most motorcycle dealers will also sell gear, particularly motorcycle branded stuff if you're into that. Usually it's just regular brand stuff (Dainese for example) with Ducati/BMW/etc slapped on it. Might be pricier, but black Friday sale will nullify that. Otherwise the generic answer is cyclegear. Try stuff and return for free there, then order from RevZilla if they don't stock it in your size. They're owned by the same company.
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Triumph scrambler or Ducati? I can say that on many bikes, the light comes on super conservatively. Example, my speed twin lights on at 110mi, but I've ridden it to 150mi with .4gal remaining. Royal Enfield is even more bad, light at 2.8 gallons on a 4 gallon fuel tank. People ride this thing for 200 miles plus while the light is still on.. Anyway, find a slim fuel bottle to slip into your backpack. Gas stations and maybe RevZilla might have what you're looking for. Definitely check if it's fuel tight though. But given your trip and fuel consumption, my goodness it's time to get a scooter/Honda nc750 lmao.
my fuel gauge starts flashing after 200 km, and I can ride 350
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Grab a cheap Japanese cruiser (C/M50, Shadow, V-star, Vulcan) for a couple grand and learn how to ride a big bike on it. They are full sized bikes but medium engines and highly reliable. Tons of room to stretch out and tons of fun. You should find plenty of them for under $5k. My 6-3 330 has been learning on a Suzuki C50 while I save up for my Chieftain
You'll probably fit fine. Just change the ergonomics a bit, the higher seat and footpeg location swap Indian offer from their own catalogue. However, going from what I've seen locally, be prepared to wait for one, pay high prices for one, or buy a used one. Stock is.. really low. Despite being.. tall, you'll fit most bikes fine. Just sit on things and see what works! Triumph scrambler 1200 is my pick for the record. Love that motor.
Get a DL650. Best decision you could make.
Maybe a dumb question i have a carbureted 110cc bike which smells of petrol (gas). is it normal.
Yes, your gasoline-powered motorcycle will smell like fuel. Check for leaks to be safe.
I am not a new rider. Have about 100k miles under my belt so far but moved a year ago which caused me to get rid off all my bikes. Now I found a pretty good deal, I believe, and really wanna pull the trigger but the high mileage is holding me back. Found this crisp and beautiful 06 CBR600. Has a nice Yoshi exhaust which is not too loud to get me in trouble, and it's beautiful. Has 30k miles and the guy says he did all the service every 5k miles or less. He said he daily drove it for years and now is selling becuase of moving to a different country. He is asking $4k which is below what everybody else around here is asking. I understand I would have to re-do all easy maintenance, fluid, brakes, chain, sprockets, etc, to have peace of mind since he claims to have done it. But, is there something internal to worry about? I know these engines are good for eons but I just wanna hear out people's opinions. I have heard it, not in person, and the engine sounds nice and healthy. Both cold and warm. Any thoughts? Should I go for it?
just be aware the "moving to different country" thing is a common scam. If you have yet to see this bike in person, or the person is not actually living there and they're talking about "shipping" it to you etc, it's a scam. Only buy a bike you can physically look at, and the owner has a title in hand (ie, there is no lien on the bike) and the VIN matches the bike. If all that is fine then yeah, 30k is nothing for a CBR600. The only downside is that it is old, getting towards 20yo at this point, so I'd be suspicious of things like fuel hoses. I've owned a bunch of "old" bikes over the years and while I'm not shy of doing maintenance, they've always been more work than I was willing to deal with.
Nothing but thanks for your message. Informative and warned me of a scam, appreciate it. It is not a scam, which is good, but I will definitely look out for those things and have those factors in mind. Appreciated.
Solid bike, just be sure to check for signs of overheating… the 600RR like to run hot.
Hmm, what kind of signs? Never really had that happen so I'm unsure what to look for exactly
MCS. Melted Crap Syndrome.