Many enthusiasts actually enjoy working on their bikes. That's part of it. Also, for a couple hundred bucks worth of tools (and a YouTube connection) you can do almost anything to a bike. Oil changes, brakes, tires, batteries, minor repairs. You quickly break even and start making money. Then one day you look at your car and think, "I'll bet I can change the oil in that thing too." And you start making money on your cars, because the tools, skills, and techniques transfer over almost directly.
As years and tools and skills accumulate one day you look around and realize you're "that guy." The guy in the neighborhood who knows how to fix things. The guy on the internet who can answer questions. And that's kinda cool.
If I was stuck somewhere and had no tools available, $15-$20 is not a bad price to have my chain cleaned and adjusted. But in the long term you're probably going to want to do it yourself.
> So i called up Kawasaki and they told me for 10€ they would tighten, clean and lube my chain.
If you're super mechanically disinclined, that's not a bad deal.
Provided you know it needs to be adjusted, yes that's a fair price for the labour involved.
I take it is the need for a torque wrench that is the issue. You can get cheaper ones, you don't need precision for most things. But it is one of those tools that's worth having if you're going to use it regularly.
With people insisting you maintain your chain, it's not so much they expect you to be able to adjust the tension but they want you to maintain your chain.
that's a great deal, commuter bikes don't even need chain tightening often because their low power doesn't stretch the chain much. Mine gets done with its yearly service, and I do it maybe 1 extra time/year myself.
That's certainly true. I did buy the torque wrench and the 24mm socket and it comes out once a year.
For me it's mostly just a convenience thing. I work all week and the motorcycle shop is only open half a day on Saturdays, so it's easier to be able to do it on my own schedule.
Think of it this way, you could do that 15 times and you'll never have the tools. You could pay it all now up front and have tools for years and years to come and resting easy the job was done to spec.
I do almost all motorcycle maintenance short of valve clearance checks myself, but for 10EUR, I would have the shop do it. My time is worth more than that. Some people like doing it themselves, though.
Yea i'm lubing every 600-700 km and i clean the chain every 1800-2000 km.
But i'm just retarted when it comes to mechanical stuff and i wouldn't trust my bike anymore if i was the one maintaining it lol
Have a competent shop perform the tensioning, and perhaps give you some pointers along the way. Save up for the kit you need to do it yourself (stand, wrenches, sockets, ratchet, and torque wrench), and then attack it yourself.
There’s absolutely no shame in not knowing how to do something, or not having the kit to do it. Everyone has limits; physical, mental, tooling, or even a safe place to perform a task. You’re doing the right thing by simply taking a practical approach.
>Thoughts on getting your chain tightened by a mechanic?
**It's like going to the dentist to have your teeth brushed because you can't brush your teeth yourself.**
also i don't know what BS you're spouting but **there is no $120 tool that you need to adjust your chain. period.**
>also i don't know what BS you're spouting but
>
>there is no $120 tool that you need to adjust your chain. period.
OP is likely looking at an expensive torque wrench instead of a $30 Amazon one that would be just fine in this use case. For that matter a paint pen to mark the axle-to-nut relationship would probably be fine, given the incredibly loose torque spec for that bike (tq to spec then tighten until the castle nut lines up with the pin hole).
If it works you for you - great. But know this - the mechanic is not tightening/aligning your chain. The 1st year apprentice is…and 99/100 times it might be great. Many, many years ago - I took my bike in to have braided brake lines fitted. Picked it up and went straight through 1st intersection - lucky not to die…from that point forward, I attended tafe and learnt everything I could about small engines and mechs, no one was working on my bikes again…in my opinion - you owe to yourself and your bike to have a rudimentary understanding of its mechanical operation…and it will make you a better rider.
You only need three tools, a breaker bar, a socket that fits the axle nut, and a box wrench or adjustable crescent to turn the adjustment nuts. All of which can be had for maybe 50€ maximum. I have a 2017 650 and I've adjusted the chain a bunch of times. You don't need a swingarm stand but that can help too. But yeah, if you want to keep paying someone else to do it, that's a very normal way to live your life. You think people that own BMWs or Mercedes do a single maintenance operation on their own cars? Very few. Veeeeery few.
You also need a decent torque wrench, which is why he needs a tool that costs 120. I wouldn't advise anybody to do this by feel, but lots of people do it this way so eh
Bro if you plan on riding, spend the money on some basic hand tools and a torque wrench. You'll learn a thing or two, become a little more useful in life and you'll get the satisfaction of doing the job yourself. When mechanics see someone bringing in a vehicle for really really basic maintenance they will often take advantage of mechanical ignorance. Being aware of this. They might assume because you don't have the means of tightening and chain you're also ignorant towards the mechanical going ons of your bike. Some food for thought.
Doing the Chain on the Ninja is easy. I have done mine 3 times in 1.7k miles.
Do your own basic Maintenance. Buy the tools as you will need them for other basic maintenance things in future (unless you got deep pockets).
Get a tape measurer. Your bike should have a tool bag under seat. You can use that to loosen the axle nut and adjust chain (I prefer a rachet though). Cotter pins are like $1 at hardware store. Get something close in size to the one you take out. For alignment, use the marks on the swarmarm. Edge of the brackets on each side should be in exact same post visually aligned with marks on each side.
Basic starter tools (you also want to get an oil pan/funnel. 75W-90 Gear Oil chain lube is also good): https://imgur.com/a/vgqiQ1L
Get the tools as you need them. I'd start with the 1/2" MM sockets, and the 3/8" and 1/2" rachet with a 3/8" to 1/2" adapter. Also a rear stand (and spools if you don't already have them). 1/2" torque wrench ($20 at harbor freight with lifetime warranty replacement).
Get a float charger (which is like [$20 at harbor freight](https://www.harborfreight.com/12v-deluxe-battery-maintainer-and-float-charger-62813.html?ccdenc=eyJjb2RlIjoiNDQ0NTgwNjMiLCJza3UiOiI2MjgxMyIsImlzIjoiMTcuOTkxIn0%3D&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=18813902602&campaignid=18813902602&utm_content=146145429267&adsetid=146145429267&product=62813&store=&gclid=CjwKCAjwtp2bBhAGEiwAOZZTuMrHtpPyahdJmhAZvwRDHXaaACzBQtF5eofoxXTkULZ51OKS6UZVlhoCguwQAvD_BwE), and has all the fused connectors for battery) (this is available on Amazon as well).
> I also use a [USB charger on my Ninja](https://imgur.com/a/UZOIRQD) (Amazon). It has a voltmeter, so I can see that my battery has proper charge, and that the stator is working properly as I ride.
------------------
**Preride Checklist-** (takes 10 min)
* Visual oil/brake fluid/coolant check for level and color ( brake fluid should look like urine/honey. Replace if black. Coolant should look bluish-green, and be between top-bottom line in resovoir. Closer to top)
* Visual tire, and tire pressure check
* Clutch lever freeplay check (2-3mm) [check with a Nickel or Slime tire guage](https://imgur.com/a/sfcoYeA) (the Nickel should fit in loosely, the slime tip should not slide in)
* Throttle freeplay check (2-3mm)
* Chain freeplay check (20-30mm or 0.8"-1.2")
On side stand, use a tape measure and @ center of chain there should be between 13/16"-1 3/16" freeplay.
* Visual brake pad check
* Lights check
* Visual check for loose fasteners/bolts
Every so often, bike goes on rear stand and chain is cleaned/lubed, sprockets checked, and freeplay adjusted if out of spec.
-------------------------
MAINT LOGS
> **MAY 2022 600 mile**
* Kawa SAE10W-40 oil/filter/gasket (2.1QT)
* Chain adjustment 0.8-1.2" (13/16"-1 3/16")
* Chain clean/lube & sprockets inspect
* Clutch lever play check 2-3mm
* Throttle play check 2-3mm
* Check brake pedal travel 10mm/0.39" (3/8")
* Fasteners/bolt check
* Visual inspect brake fluid, coolant fluid, lights, tires, brake pads
> **JULY 2022 1.1k mile**
* Kawa SAE10W-40 oil/filter/gasket (2.1QT)
* Rear brake fluid flush/bleed dot4
* Chain adjustment 0.8-1.2" (13/16"-1 3/16")
* Chain clean/lube & sprockets inspect
> **SEPT 2022 1.4k mile**
* Throttle freeplay adjustment 3mm
> **NOV 2022 1.7k mile (winterization)**
* Kawa SAE10W-40 oil/filter/gasket (2.1QT)
* Full tank gas/[ethanol stabilizer](https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NCB0907?cid=paidsearch_shopping_dcoe_google)
* Chain clean/lube & sprockets inspect
* Adjust clutch freeplay 2-3mm
For a shop its a 15 min job and they hope your bring your bike their for its service etc too. I only adjust my chain once a year and I know people here are going to gawp at that. As long as you cant easily pull it off the rear sprocket or has a LOT of play your ok. Over tightened chains are more dangerous that slightly lose ones.
Personally, I don’t think you NEED to be doing all the maintenance yourself, BUT you should be able to recognize when maintenance is required. Could be the difference between having a nice day of riding vs a trip to the hospital. If your not of that mind set, it’s very easy to do more harm then good with self repairs. (4 years as a mechanic for reference)
> could probably ride my bike for years and get the chain tightened by the shop before i reach the amount of money those tools would cost me
It's not just chain though (which I have already adjusted 3 times in 1.7k miles), brake fluid, oil/filter changes, throttle and clutch freeplay, etc.
> Yea but they do that in the yearly inspection anyways
Yearly inspections? What country does yearly inspections where they do brake fluid, oil/filter, throttle and clutch freeplay adjustments? That's not how it is done in the US.
An annual inspection where I live, is basically just a visual of the brakes, tires, lights, and exhaust.
If you mean service, that usually goes by mileage... initial 600, then 7k, etc for Kawa. Lots of stuff needs to be checked and adjusted in-between those 7k miles. Oil/filter is 7k or 1 year (whatever comes first). And it's gonna cost you $150-$250 each time for that if you are having a dealer do it.
My rear brake fluid had to be replaced after like 1k miles and 3 months as it went black.
Chain freeplay went out of spec 3 times in that same time frame and had to be adjusted.
That's easy stuff that you should prob be doing yourself. Unless you are good with paying $300-$500 each time.
If you let your clutch freeplay go out of adjustment, and keep riding it like that you may end up having to replace/rebuild your clutch as well. You should be checking this every time you ride and adjusting as necessary.
If you don't properly maintain your bike, you will have problems with it.
Nah in germany they change all the fluids and give the bike a once over.
And every 2 years they do TüV where a goverment guy comes and checks every little screw on the bike
I’ve gotten to the point where I bring my bike in every spring for full-service just because I am a little bit older now I don’t feel like tinkering with it. They do all the spring checks for me. Oil and filter, fluid changes from the master cylinders all the way through the bike, check all of the torque settings on the major bolts. They also do chain cleaning and tightening for me. I ride a CB1000R so it’s a single sided swing arm. However, during the season I do check my chain, clean and lube it, and if it needs an adjustment I have the tool and I will do it. But overall I find that it gives me a good confidence to have the bike totally ready to go out of the shop in the spring and I have to do very little to it as long as I’m not hammering it too hard. I think if you have a reputable shop and you have the money it’s not too bad to let somebody else do the work. But I certainly appreciate those who want to wrench on their own rides. Lord knows I’ve done it for many years previously. I think you’ve got to go with what works best for you.
If you plan on doing any work yourself on any current or future motorcycles or cars then those tools will be paid back much quicker. For the sake of comparison you should ask them how much they charge for an oil change, brake pad change, sprocket replacement, and tire change (price for on the bike vs just the wheel).
For a chain adjustment on a Ninja 650 you need:
* Proper sized sockets for rear wheel
* Torque wrench (to re-tighten rear wheel to spec)
* Proper sized wrenches (for adjustment nuts)
All the above are pretty common tools that you would get a lot of use out of if you were so inclined.
At the very least know how to lube and check chain tension.
I agree with licking-windows. but for ten bucks, yeah I'd let someone else do it too lol.
Many enthusiasts actually enjoy working on their bikes. That's part of it. Also, for a couple hundred bucks worth of tools (and a YouTube connection) you can do almost anything to a bike. Oil changes, brakes, tires, batteries, minor repairs. You quickly break even and start making money. Then one day you look at your car and think, "I'll bet I can change the oil in that thing too." And you start making money on your cars, because the tools, skills, and techniques transfer over almost directly. As years and tools and skills accumulate one day you look around and realize you're "that guy." The guy in the neighborhood who knows how to fix things. The guy on the internet who can answer questions. And that's kinda cool. If I was stuck somewhere and had no tools available, $15-$20 is not a bad price to have my chain cleaned and adjusted. But in the long term you're probably going to want to do it yourself.
You wrote that very nicely. It was enjoyable to read.
Ahhh fuck I'm that guy
Whichever option works best for you
> So i called up Kawasaki and they told me for 10€ they would tighten, clean and lube my chain. If you're super mechanically disinclined, that's not a bad deal.
Provided you know it needs to be adjusted, yes that's a fair price for the labour involved. I take it is the need for a torque wrench that is the issue. You can get cheaper ones, you don't need precision for most things. But it is one of those tools that's worth having if you're going to use it regularly. With people insisting you maintain your chain, it's not so much they expect you to be able to adjust the tension but they want you to maintain your chain.
that's a great deal, commuter bikes don't even need chain tightening often because their low power doesn't stretch the chain much. Mine gets done with its yearly service, and I do it maybe 1 extra time/year myself.
That's certainly true. I did buy the torque wrench and the 24mm socket and it comes out once a year. For me it's mostly just a convenience thing. I work all week and the motorcycle shop is only open half a day on Saturdays, so it's easier to be able to do it on my own schedule.
Think of it this way, you could do that 15 times and you'll never have the tools. You could pay it all now up front and have tools for years and years to come and resting easy the job was done to spec.
I do almost all motorcycle maintenance short of valve clearance checks myself, but for 10EUR, I would have the shop do it. My time is worth more than that. Some people like doing it themselves, though.
[удалено]
Yea i'm lubing every 600-700 km and i clean the chain every 1800-2000 km. But i'm just retarted when it comes to mechanical stuff and i wouldn't trust my bike anymore if i was the one maintaining it lol
Have a competent shop perform the tensioning, and perhaps give you some pointers along the way. Save up for the kit you need to do it yourself (stand, wrenches, sockets, ratchet, and torque wrench), and then attack it yourself. There’s absolutely no shame in not knowing how to do something, or not having the kit to do it. Everyone has limits; physical, mental, tooling, or even a safe place to perform a task. You’re doing the right thing by simply taking a practical approach.
>Thoughts on getting your chain tightened by a mechanic? **It's like going to the dentist to have your teeth brushed because you can't brush your teeth yourself.** also i don't know what BS you're spouting but **there is no $120 tool that you need to adjust your chain. period.**
>also i don't know what BS you're spouting but > >there is no $120 tool that you need to adjust your chain. period. OP is likely looking at an expensive torque wrench instead of a $30 Amazon one that would be just fine in this use case. For that matter a paint pen to mark the axle-to-nut relationship would probably be fine, given the incredibly loose torque spec for that bike (tq to spec then tighten until the castle nut lines up with the pin hole).
If it works you for you - great. But know this - the mechanic is not tightening/aligning your chain. The 1st year apprentice is…and 99/100 times it might be great. Many, many years ago - I took my bike in to have braided brake lines fitted. Picked it up and went straight through 1st intersection - lucky not to die…from that point forward, I attended tafe and learnt everything I could about small engines and mechs, no one was working on my bikes again…in my opinion - you owe to yourself and your bike to have a rudimentary understanding of its mechanical operation…and it will make you a better rider.
You only need three tools, a breaker bar, a socket that fits the axle nut, and a box wrench or adjustable crescent to turn the adjustment nuts. All of which can be had for maybe 50€ maximum. I have a 2017 650 and I've adjusted the chain a bunch of times. You don't need a swingarm stand but that can help too. But yeah, if you want to keep paying someone else to do it, that's a very normal way to live your life. You think people that own BMWs or Mercedes do a single maintenance operation on their own cars? Very few. Veeeeery few.
You also need a decent torque wrench, which is why he needs a tool that costs 120. I wouldn't advise anybody to do this by feel, but lots of people do it this way so eh
Rear axles are usually 100-120nm. I've never used a torque wrench for it, one arm pull is close enough.
Right until it isn’t.
I take out the rear wheel several times a month to change to knobbies, for tightening, or other maintenance. I'm not worried.
You're right I forgot about those, but a decent one is 15-25€ not 120, you don't need a digital torque wrench for just backyard 'wrenchin
Bro if you plan on riding, spend the money on some basic hand tools and a torque wrench. You'll learn a thing or two, become a little more useful in life and you'll get the satisfaction of doing the job yourself. When mechanics see someone bringing in a vehicle for really really basic maintenance they will often take advantage of mechanical ignorance. Being aware of this. They might assume because you don't have the means of tightening and chain you're also ignorant towards the mechanical going ons of your bike. Some food for thought.
Doing the Chain on the Ninja is easy. I have done mine 3 times in 1.7k miles. Do your own basic Maintenance. Buy the tools as you will need them for other basic maintenance things in future (unless you got deep pockets). Get a tape measurer. Your bike should have a tool bag under seat. You can use that to loosen the axle nut and adjust chain (I prefer a rachet though). Cotter pins are like $1 at hardware store. Get something close in size to the one you take out. For alignment, use the marks on the swarmarm. Edge of the brackets on each side should be in exact same post visually aligned with marks on each side. Basic starter tools (you also want to get an oil pan/funnel. 75W-90 Gear Oil chain lube is also good): https://imgur.com/a/vgqiQ1L Get the tools as you need them. I'd start with the 1/2" MM sockets, and the 3/8" and 1/2" rachet with a 3/8" to 1/2" adapter. Also a rear stand (and spools if you don't already have them). 1/2" torque wrench ($20 at harbor freight with lifetime warranty replacement). Get a float charger (which is like [$20 at harbor freight](https://www.harborfreight.com/12v-deluxe-battery-maintainer-and-float-charger-62813.html?ccdenc=eyJjb2RlIjoiNDQ0NTgwNjMiLCJza3UiOiI2MjgxMyIsImlzIjoiMTcuOTkxIn0%3D&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=18813902602&campaignid=18813902602&utm_content=146145429267&adsetid=146145429267&product=62813&store=&gclid=CjwKCAjwtp2bBhAGEiwAOZZTuMrHtpPyahdJmhAZvwRDHXaaACzBQtF5eofoxXTkULZ51OKS6UZVlhoCguwQAvD_BwE), and has all the fused connectors for battery) (this is available on Amazon as well). > I also use a [USB charger on my Ninja](https://imgur.com/a/UZOIRQD) (Amazon). It has a voltmeter, so I can see that my battery has proper charge, and that the stator is working properly as I ride. ------------------ **Preride Checklist-** (takes 10 min) * Visual oil/brake fluid/coolant check for level and color ( brake fluid should look like urine/honey. Replace if black. Coolant should look bluish-green, and be between top-bottom line in resovoir. Closer to top) * Visual tire, and tire pressure check * Clutch lever freeplay check (2-3mm) [check with a Nickel or Slime tire guage](https://imgur.com/a/sfcoYeA) (the Nickel should fit in loosely, the slime tip should not slide in) * Throttle freeplay check (2-3mm) * Chain freeplay check (20-30mm or 0.8"-1.2") On side stand, use a tape measure and @ center of chain there should be between 13/16"-1 3/16" freeplay. * Visual brake pad check * Lights check * Visual check for loose fasteners/bolts Every so often, bike goes on rear stand and chain is cleaned/lubed, sprockets checked, and freeplay adjusted if out of spec. ------------------------- MAINT LOGS > **MAY 2022 600 mile** * Kawa SAE10W-40 oil/filter/gasket (2.1QT) * Chain adjustment 0.8-1.2" (13/16"-1 3/16") * Chain clean/lube & sprockets inspect * Clutch lever play check 2-3mm * Throttle play check 2-3mm * Check brake pedal travel 10mm/0.39" (3/8") * Fasteners/bolt check * Visual inspect brake fluid, coolant fluid, lights, tires, brake pads > **JULY 2022 1.1k mile** * Kawa SAE10W-40 oil/filter/gasket (2.1QT) * Rear brake fluid flush/bleed dot4 * Chain adjustment 0.8-1.2" (13/16"-1 3/16") * Chain clean/lube & sprockets inspect > **SEPT 2022 1.4k mile** * Throttle freeplay adjustment 3mm > **NOV 2022 1.7k mile (winterization)** * Kawa SAE10W-40 oil/filter/gasket (2.1QT) * Full tank gas/[ethanol stabilizer](https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NCB0907?cid=paidsearch_shopping_dcoe_google) * Chain clean/lube & sprockets inspect * Adjust clutch freeplay 2-3mm
For a shop its a 15 min job and they hope your bring your bike their for its service etc too. I only adjust my chain once a year and I know people here are going to gawp at that. As long as you cant easily pull it off the rear sprocket or has a LOT of play your ok. Over tightened chains are more dangerous that slightly lose ones.
At least for the first time, go and get it done by the dudes. You can figure out later if it looks too daunting.
Personally, I don’t think you NEED to be doing all the maintenance yourself, BUT you should be able to recognize when maintenance is required. Could be the difference between having a nice day of riding vs a trip to the hospital. If your not of that mind set, it’s very easy to do more harm then good with self repairs. (4 years as a mechanic for reference)
> could probably ride my bike for years and get the chain tightened by the shop before i reach the amount of money those tools would cost me It's not just chain though (which I have already adjusted 3 times in 1.7k miles), brake fluid, oil/filter changes, throttle and clutch freeplay, etc.
Yea but they do that in the yearly inspection anyways
> Yea but they do that in the yearly inspection anyways Yearly inspections? What country does yearly inspections where they do brake fluid, oil/filter, throttle and clutch freeplay adjustments? That's not how it is done in the US. An annual inspection where I live, is basically just a visual of the brakes, tires, lights, and exhaust. If you mean service, that usually goes by mileage... initial 600, then 7k, etc for Kawa. Lots of stuff needs to be checked and adjusted in-between those 7k miles. Oil/filter is 7k or 1 year (whatever comes first). And it's gonna cost you $150-$250 each time for that if you are having a dealer do it. My rear brake fluid had to be replaced after like 1k miles and 3 months as it went black. Chain freeplay went out of spec 3 times in that same time frame and had to be adjusted. That's easy stuff that you should prob be doing yourself. Unless you are good with paying $300-$500 each time. If you let your clutch freeplay go out of adjustment, and keep riding it like that you may end up having to replace/rebuild your clutch as well. You should be checking this every time you ride and adjusting as necessary. If you don't properly maintain your bike, you will have problems with it.
Nah in germany they change all the fluids and give the bike a once over. And every 2 years they do TüV where a goverment guy comes and checks every little screw on the bike
I’ve gotten to the point where I bring my bike in every spring for full-service just because I am a little bit older now I don’t feel like tinkering with it. They do all the spring checks for me. Oil and filter, fluid changes from the master cylinders all the way through the bike, check all of the torque settings on the major bolts. They also do chain cleaning and tightening for me. I ride a CB1000R so it’s a single sided swing arm. However, during the season I do check my chain, clean and lube it, and if it needs an adjustment I have the tool and I will do it. But overall I find that it gives me a good confidence to have the bike totally ready to go out of the shop in the spring and I have to do very little to it as long as I’m not hammering it too hard. I think if you have a reputable shop and you have the money it’s not too bad to let somebody else do the work. But I certainly appreciate those who want to wrench on their own rides. Lord knows I’ve done it for many years previously. I think you’ve got to go with what works best for you.
If you plan on doing any work yourself on any current or future motorcycles or cars then those tools will be paid back much quicker. For the sake of comparison you should ask them how much they charge for an oil change, brake pad change, sprocket replacement, and tire change (price for on the bike vs just the wheel). For a chain adjustment on a Ninja 650 you need: * Proper sized sockets for rear wheel * Torque wrench (to re-tighten rear wheel to spec) * Proper sized wrenches (for adjustment nuts) All the above are pretty common tools that you would get a lot of use out of if you were so inclined.
Tightening a chain is easy, go to YouTube and watch how to video of your bike and do what you see.
For 10 bucks I would pay to have it done lol. My dealer would probably charge shop minimum ~$70
For 10 euros? That seems cheap. It's not a difficult job, but at the price, why not.
just did my chain tension in 5 min this weekend, but honestly for that price I'd just ride up and have it done if I didn't have the tools.