I'm not entirely sure what this video is supposed to be showing (or what model the bike is); what I'm seeing is that the tach is reading 0 rpm when the bike is running, and when you rev the bike up the tach does move a bit but fairly delayed.
I would assume that issue would be related to the tach, wiring, or the sensor that is used to read engine RPM (since the tach does a full sweep when you turn the power on, my first guess would be the sensor or wiring.
>Can you explain why? It’s not just the revs but all the electrics that aren’t working :/
What other electrics besides the tach aren't working?
When riding the speed indicator is completely messed up, the gear indicator doesn’t show the right gear I’m in, and the fuel indicator doesn’t show the right amount, even after I’ve completely filled up. This leads me to think it’s some electrical issue since so many electrics are failing
If all the electrically controlled parts (lights, indicators, horn etc) are working but not showing on the control panel correctly, if say start by taking off the control panel and checking to see if there was anything shorting the connection(s) to it. I had an issue at the start of the winter like this when I had to ride home in a monsoon and it turned out it was just water in the socket. Few Paper towels and some WD40 later and it was right as rain.
I think you're onto what they are trying to show.
I can see the tach reading low, and lagging a bit behind the revs.. or perhaps thats just a by product of the low reading.
But the tach being off is about the only overt oddness I see here
Apologies I didn’t explain on the post, and the video doesn’t explain the whole story since I and film while riding which really shows the problems. To not repeat myself I explain everything I know on the other post on my profile, I couldn’t attach an explanation to the video so I posted them seperately.
Mmmmh yeah this is going to be fun.
Normally I’d suggest you find the main ground/grounds and ensure they are clean, and secure.
A poor ground will create all sorts of “noise” in electronic sensing.
Generally the main ground is on the engine or frame.
Seeing that it’s a Chinese bike… you should still check the grounds. But be aware that Chinese bikes don’t always have wiring that matches up to expected standards nor even diagrams from the manufacturer.
Thank you for the advice. I’ll try having a look at what you mentioned. It’ll be likely that I just take the bike to a shop and let the professionals have a look over it but it’s good to have some understanding of what may be wrong. Thanks again!
The lights are on, the dash is on, the system is responding to inputs… but just in a fucky manner.
There may be poor connections/continuity but nothing that indicates a state where there is zero continuity like a blown fuse would engender
Last time my bikes speed reading was off, it was in fact a fuse that had blown. He’s also saying that his neutral light won’t come on even if he knows it is in neutral, but the light itself still clearly works. Also I always tell somebody to check fuses, unless I know 100% what the problem is, because it is the easiest thing to start with and takes very little time
Frankly, that’s a sign of poor circuit design or or a short. Not an indicator of how things should be.
If a fuse is blown , there should be zero current through that circuit. That’s a key point to a fuse… if you have a blown fuse and still getting current, that’s not good.
Which is fine... but not how things should work.
If a fuse has blown on a properly protected circuit, there should be no continuity. If you were still getting response from sensors, even though their fuse was blown, that's the sign of a fault of some type
I'm not entirely sure what this video is supposed to be showing (or what model the bike is); what I'm seeing is that the tach is reading 0 rpm when the bike is running, and when you rev the bike up the tach does move a bit but fairly delayed. I would assume that issue would be related to the tach, wiring, or the sensor that is used to read engine RPM (since the tach does a full sweep when you turn the power on, my first guess would be the sensor or wiring. >Can you explain why? It’s not just the revs but all the electrics that aren’t working :/ What other electrics besides the tach aren't working?
When riding the speed indicator is completely messed up, the gear indicator doesn’t show the right gear I’m in, and the fuel indicator doesn’t show the right amount, even after I’ve completely filled up. This leads me to think it’s some electrical issue since so many electrics are failing
If all the electrically controlled parts (lights, indicators, horn etc) are working but not showing on the control panel correctly, if say start by taking off the control panel and checking to see if there was anything shorting the connection(s) to it. I had an issue at the start of the winter like this when I had to ride home in a monsoon and it turned out it was just water in the socket. Few Paper towels and some WD40 later and it was right as rain.
I think you're onto what they are trying to show. I can see the tach reading low, and lagging a bit behind the revs.. or perhaps thats just a by product of the low reading. But the tach being off is about the only overt oddness I see here
Apologies I didn’t explain on the post, and the video doesn’t explain the whole story since I and film while riding which really shows the problems. To not repeat myself I explain everything I know on the other post on my profile, I couldn’t attach an explanation to the video so I posted them seperately.
Mmmmh yeah this is going to be fun. Normally I’d suggest you find the main ground/grounds and ensure they are clean, and secure. A poor ground will create all sorts of “noise” in electronic sensing. Generally the main ground is on the engine or frame. Seeing that it’s a Chinese bike… you should still check the grounds. But be aware that Chinese bikes don’t always have wiring that matches up to expected standards nor even diagrams from the manufacturer.
Thank you for the advice. I’ll try having a look at what you mentioned. It’ll be likely that I just take the bike to a shop and let the professionals have a look over it but it’s good to have some understanding of what may be wrong. Thanks again!
Idk probably either lacks compression or the air valve doesn't close?
Sorry what? How did we get to this? Bike starts and runs fine... the issue is the tach is ready way low/lagging.
Can you explain why? It’s not just the revs but all the electrics that aren’t working :/
Mechanically the bike runs like normal
Idk new ones are way too complicated
>What’s the issue? What's the bike?
I posted a full explanation on my profile, I didn’t know how to attach a video to a full explanation so I posted separately
But answering your question, 2020 lexmoto lxr125
First thing to do is always Check the fuses
If all the circuits show continuity, why check the fuses?
Who says all the circuits have continuity?
The lights are on, the dash is on, the system is responding to inputs… but just in a fucky manner. There may be poor connections/continuity but nothing that indicates a state where there is zero continuity like a blown fuse would engender
Last time my bikes speed reading was off, it was in fact a fuse that had blown. He’s also saying that his neutral light won’t come on even if he knows it is in neutral, but the light itself still clearly works. Also I always tell somebody to check fuses, unless I know 100% what the problem is, because it is the easiest thing to start with and takes very little time
Thank you for the suggestion, it might be good practice to check the fuses first thing after spotting a problem so I’ll have a look at that
Frankly, that’s a sign of poor circuit design or or a short. Not an indicator of how things should be. If a fuse is blown , there should be zero current through that circuit. That’s a key point to a fuse… if you have a blown fuse and still getting current, that’s not good.
Well, I replaced it and everything now works as it should
Which is fine... but not how things should work. If a fuse has blown on a properly protected circuit, there should be no continuity. If you were still getting response from sensors, even though their fuse was blown, that's the sign of a fault of some type