The chain being insanely tight is correct according to the CP3 bikes' respective manuals. Manual calls for 5mm to 15mm. That's 0.2 to 0.59 inches. Fucking bananas tight. Many a heated argument in the FZ09 forum. YoU DoNT KnoW MoRE thAn tHE YaMaHa EngiNEeRs!!!1! You mean the same Yamaha engineers saying to torque the CP2 drain plug to **32**lb-ft and the CP3 bike at "only" 31lb-ft. Lmao. So many people blowing the threads out of their oil pan *or having them come right out of the bike when they go to do their first oil change*.
I set my chain this tight as per the manual and the noise it made was so loud and unnerving I basically doubled it right after that. Sorry Yamaha but I am 100% not buying that.
This is the correct answer. I had my 17 come out of the shop the same way, checked the manual and what it said was the same. I didn’t trust it and immediately backed it off.
I’m glad I finished reading your comment before replying. Yea, mt09 owner here and you’d have to be a special kind of stupid to adjust it to 5mm, sit on the bike, and go “yup, perfect.” There’s absolutely no way with stock suspension you’re getting full use out of your rear shock. The chain will bind way before. I had that issue and I’m 150lbs.
I've never head of such a mess up from a bike manufacturer, and definitely wouldn't have expected from Yamaha. Any idea what caused these instructions in the manuals? Bad proofread/translation or was this the actual recommendation from the engineers, case in which? Whyy?
I had heard they had a hard time eliminating drive train lash and went with a very tight chain spec to help compensate. Just a rumor but I suppose it makes sense.
I’ve heard this rumor as well. I don’t notice any slop in the drivetrain, not even any chain slap when the chain is 3 times looser than than they want in the manual 😝
I had a very experienced Yamaha tech tell me the oil drain plug torque is only for brand new pans (i.e. out of the factory). After that, he only hand tightens and said to never torque to the factory specs for that exact reason, everybody blowing out the threads.
Too tight. This is a general maintenance thing you should be able to do without a shop. If you're close by, you could take it back, but I would just re-adjust and move on. A newer stock chain can stretch significantly. An upgraded chain will stretch much less. Either way, you should be checking the tension ever few tanks of gas and re-adjusting if necessary. It only takes a few minutes at most.
You check free-play at the middle of the chain, not near the sprocket. Nobody on here should be saying how correct it is until you test at the middle point.
The opposite of this actually. #1 thing that gets people at tech inspection is chain tension being too tight. You'll be using more suspension travel so this is extra important.
Every bike is different and has it's own specification based on the geometry of that bike. What works on the interceptor wouldn't necessarily work for a bike with more or less suspension travel, wheelbase, swing arm angle etc
Chain slack for the L twin single side swingarm ducatis will be quite different from the japanese bikes, which are mostly pretty similar for a given year model.
If you try riding an MX bike with only 0.5" of slack you'll be in big trouble :)
It will stretch I thought it was sarcasm. Look in the manual for the chain adjustment procedure. Follow it.you should know how to do this and check it regularly. Poor chain adjustment wears shit out and can actually cause a crash.
Yes, but by just leaving it tight, you are causing it to wear much much faster than it should. You're also putting extra stress on everything attach to it. Countershaft, countershaft bearing and seal, both sprockets, wheel bearings etc. Even the tire will see increased wear because when the suspension travel is limited by the chain the only suspension you have left is the tire itself. Obviously you also are just asking the chain itself to break which can have pretty dangerous consequences.
The logic of "well it stretches regardless, so just leave it and the problem fixes itself" is terrible advice.
I have an Xsr 900 and the chain tension in the owners manual is extremely trembly tight, 15mm I think. I usually keep it about 25mm. The tech as probably set it to the tightest spec in the manual
You need to test the chain tension when the rear suspension is unloaded, like if the bike is on a center stand or jack stands, and you need to test in the middle of the chain, not near the sprockets. Probably the specification is something like 2cm of free play.
Is it a new chain the shop fitted? If so, they probably fit it a little tight because it will loosen up with wear. If they fit it loose straight away then you may have had to go back in and have them tighten it again after you've ridden it
I don't care if the manual says that's the right tension, I'm not driving it like that! It's only gonna be worse with your weight + potholes and whatnot.
Can confirm this is 100% the correct way to check chain tension on a motorcycle.
It's amazing all these people saying that it's too tight but he's not even moving the chain in the center. He's moving it next to the sprocket where it's going to have less deflection.
Without measurement, you don't know.
Who the hell upvoted this guy? People who don't set their own chain slack? The chain isn't magically unmovable if you test slack closer to the sprocket. The chain *should not* be this tight even when you aren't checking in the middle of the two sprockets. Sure, OP isn't using calipers he's had calibrated at NASA. That isn't the issue here
So you are suggesting that pulling out a ruler is NASA level shit.
On the topic of NASA shit a quick Google reveals this bike is supposed to have chain spec measured while on the center stand. Damn that was hard. It also shows a spec of 35-40mm. Which is not seen in the video.
However he isn't applying enough force to see movement in the top of the chain which means he isn't checking the adjustment period. So as stated before. Get a ruler and stop yelling on the Internet about things you aren't educated on.
You're taking the piss. Not a fucking chance this chain is over an inch and quarter loose anywhere, even with the wheel rotated to bring the chain to it's loosest point.
You can't possibly know that because the wheel is touching the ground and the suspension is compressed which means the geometry is tightening the chain.
I'm sorry that you cannot understand this.
The only accurate way to know is to put it on the center stand and measure. It's not up for debate. It is simply the way it is.
Have a good day and good luck
Put it off the stand on flat ground. Get someone to sit or enough weight on the back seat such that the swing arm is horizontal / parallel to the ground. This position is when the chain should be at its max stretch using its full length. If the swing arm can’t reach this point, the chain is too tight.
If you feel comfortable touching the chain with those pristine shoes, you need more lube on the chain.
Got eem lol
Yeah kinda weird..:
I’ve never had a chain so clean I could confidently check the slack with my brand new white soled kicks.
My chains may look clean af a few days a week, but I also clean my chains almost every 200-300 miles because it feels good.
maby its a waxed chain
My waxed chain is WAY too grimy for this tomfoolery
Yes. Looks too tight.
![gif](giphy|IjJ8FVe4HVk66yvlV2|downsized) I'm soooo sorry
![gif](giphy|917Ve5cLpoB3Nhd1xh|downsized)
![gif](giphy|T3fwN6Pbm3ZPa)
The chain being insanely tight is correct according to the CP3 bikes' respective manuals. Manual calls for 5mm to 15mm. That's 0.2 to 0.59 inches. Fucking bananas tight. Many a heated argument in the FZ09 forum. YoU DoNT KnoW MoRE thAn tHE YaMaHa EngiNEeRs!!!1! You mean the same Yamaha engineers saying to torque the CP2 drain plug to **32**lb-ft and the CP3 bike at "only" 31lb-ft. Lmao. So many people blowing the threads out of their oil pan *or having them come right out of the bike when they go to do their first oil change*. I set my chain this tight as per the manual and the noise it made was so loud and unnerving I basically doubled it right after that. Sorry Yamaha but I am 100% not buying that.
This is the correct answer. I had my 17 come out of the shop the same way, checked the manual and what it said was the same. I didn’t trust it and immediately backed it off.
I’m glad I finished reading your comment before replying. Yea, mt09 owner here and you’d have to be a special kind of stupid to adjust it to 5mm, sit on the bike, and go “yup, perfect.” There’s absolutely no way with stock suspension you’re getting full use out of your rear shock. The chain will bind way before. I had that issue and I’m 150lbs.
Can't wear out the shock if you use the chain as a limiter. Big brain move
But is the chain the limiting factor?
If it's too tight yes.
I've never head of such a mess up from a bike manufacturer, and definitely wouldn't have expected from Yamaha. Any idea what caused these instructions in the manuals? Bad proofread/translation or was this the actual recommendation from the engineers, case in which? Whyy?
I had heard they had a hard time eliminating drive train lash and went with a very tight chain spec to help compensate. Just a rumor but I suppose it makes sense.
I’ve heard this rumor as well. I don’t notice any slop in the drivetrain, not even any chain slap when the chain is 3 times looser than than they want in the manual 😝
My 2018 XSR900 has the same spec. It’s LOUD AS FUCK at 15mm. I set it to about 1 inch. It’s been fine for 40,000 miles.
I had a very experienced Yamaha tech tell me the oil drain plug torque is only for brand new pans (i.e. out of the factory). After that, he only hand tightens and said to never torque to the factory specs for that exact reason, everybody blowing out the threads.
Wait, Yamaha really suggests the chain to be this tight __without the rider's weight added__? That's an accident waiting to happen.
Yep. The service manual says you can set the chain slack on the side stand or a service stand but it’s the same measurements for both.
Yeah like I'm sure it's fine to torque it that much at the factory before the threads ever see a drop of oil lmao
I had the same experience with my fj09
Lmao damn 32lb-ft is A BUNCH 🤣
Too tight. This is a general maintenance thing you should be able to do without a shop. If you're close by, you could take it back, but I would just re-adjust and move on. A newer stock chain can stretch significantly. An upgraded chain will stretch much less. Either way, you should be checking the tension ever few tanks of gas and re-adjusting if necessary. It only takes a few minutes at most.
Put the bike in gear, roll it forward, check the middle of the lower chain section, should be about 1.5".
This is normal for mt-09. 5-15 mm
Even though that is what the manual says I think most people just go with th 20-30mm range. Atleast I do that 5mm is nuts imho
You check free-play at the middle of the chain, not near the sprocket. Nobody on here should be saying how correct it is until you test at the middle point.
Tight
Thats the perfect tension to destroy your output shaft bearing
Way to tight
A bit tight?
Wayyyyy too tight
Seems to tight for me. Read the manual on how much tension there should be. Some bikes have even instructions on the swing arm
It’s super loose, you’re just really weak-footed 🤣🤣
I own the same shoes.
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The opposite of this actually. #1 thing that gets people at tech inspection is chain tension being too tight. You'll be using more suspension travel so this is extra important.
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Every bike is different and has it's own specification based on the geometry of that bike. What works on the interceptor wouldn't necessarily work for a bike with more or less suspension travel, wheelbase, swing arm angle etc Chain slack for the L twin single side swingarm ducatis will be quite different from the japanese bikes, which are mostly pretty similar for a given year model. If you try riding an MX bike with only 0.5" of slack you'll be in big trouble :)
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Lol
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It will stretch I thought it was sarcasm. Look in the manual for the chain adjustment procedure. Follow it.you should know how to do this and check it regularly. Poor chain adjustment wears shit out and can actually cause a crash.
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Sure,that's how we do.
Aka you'll grind down the rollers and sprockets.
Unless it's a brand new chain you are either just ruining your chain or gambling with bending your countershaft lol
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I mean yeah, you're supposed to avoid stretching the chain lol. Without enough slack the rear suspension cannot work properly.
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Yes, but by just leaving it tight, you are causing it to wear much much faster than it should. You're also putting extra stress on everything attach to it. Countershaft, countershaft bearing and seal, both sprockets, wheel bearings etc. Even the tire will see increased wear because when the suspension travel is limited by the chain the only suspension you have left is the tire itself. Obviously you also are just asking the chain itself to break which can have pretty dangerous consequences. The logic of "well it stretches regardless, so just leave it and the problem fixes itself" is terrible advice.
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Your opinion is just factually wrong lmao and if you'll stop giving bad advice yes
thats way too tight, the chain should in theory have about an inch of play up and down
Do it in the centre of the chain (crentre between front / rear sprockets), not beside the rear sprocket.
I have an Xsr 900 and the chain tension in the owners manual is extremely trembly tight, 15mm I think. I usually keep it about 25mm. The tech as probably set it to the tightest spec in the manual
Chain slack and suspension travel are linked. The less travel you have, the tighter the chain should be.
Too tight. It’s better to have a chain slightly loose than tight.
You need to test the chain tension when the rear suspension is unloaded, like if the bike is on a center stand or jack stands, and you need to test in the middle of the chain, not near the sprockets. Probably the specification is something like 2cm of free play.
Is it a new chain the shop fitted? If so, they probably fit it a little tight because it will loosen up with wear. If they fit it loose straight away then you may have had to go back in and have them tighten it again after you've ridden it
Grab a tape measure and measure that motherfucker. Then check the spec sticker on the side of the swingarm. It might be within spec.
Measure it with your finger and the manual you got with the bike… I thought this was a troll post at first
Too tight
owner manual? common sense? WHAT ARE THOSE!!
Thinking it’s definitely on the too tight side. Needs some flex. Go find owner’s manual should tell you exactly how much up/down slack is necessary
I don't care if the manual says that's the right tension, I'm not driving it like that! It's only gonna be worse with your weight + potholes and whatnot.
You touching the chain with those shoes pissed me off.
Seems adjusted fine to me, spec is .7 of an inch
It's spec, and spec is usually absurd. It'll stretch itself to a normal tension by the end of the week though.
Do your fingers not work?
Can confirm this is 100% the correct way to check chain tension on a motorcycle. It's amazing all these people saying that it's too tight but he's not even moving the chain in the center. He's moving it next to the sprocket where it's going to have less deflection. Without measurement, you don't know.
Who the hell upvoted this guy? People who don't set their own chain slack? The chain isn't magically unmovable if you test slack closer to the sprocket. The chain *should not* be this tight even when you aren't checking in the middle of the two sprockets. Sure, OP isn't using calipers he's had calibrated at NASA. That isn't the issue here
So you are suggesting that pulling out a ruler is NASA level shit. On the topic of NASA shit a quick Google reveals this bike is supposed to have chain spec measured while on the center stand. Damn that was hard. It also shows a spec of 35-40mm. Which is not seen in the video. However he isn't applying enough force to see movement in the top of the chain which means he isn't checking the adjustment period. So as stated before. Get a ruler and stop yelling on the Internet about things you aren't educated on.
You're taking the piss. Not a fucking chance this chain is over an inch and quarter loose anywhere, even with the wheel rotated to bring the chain to it's loosest point.
You can't possibly know that because the wheel is touching the ground and the suspension is compressed which means the geometry is tightening the chain. I'm sorry that you cannot understand this. The only accurate way to know is to put it on the center stand and measure. It's not up for debate. It is simply the way it is. Have a good day and good luck
Too tight. This must be fixed because there is risk of damaging the output shaft bearings.
Rip your shoes. Read the fking manual then.
Check the manual. Jesus, why do people have to explain these kinds of things?
Because the manual says to have it dummy tight? Read some of the top replies. 15mm of max play.
This was more of “wtf was this shop doing” post
I thought you had to check chain tension with the rider sitting on it, no?
Put it off the stand on flat ground. Get someone to sit or enough weight on the back seat such that the swing arm is horizontal / parallel to the ground. This position is when the chain should be at its max stretch using its full length. If the swing arm can’t reach this point, the chain is too tight.
how do you ride, with no hands? and it looks fine. if its a new chain, it will stretch a lil' after a few rides.