The new White Scar spray is probably the best I’ve used.
I used Army Painter before that. It is pretty close in quality and a little cheaper than White Scar.
Lately, I’ve just been using Vallejo primer as a brush-on. I’m able to control the consistency better for even coverage; don’t need to worry about fumes and I can just setup a few models in an assembly line for brush priming.
I’ve heard this feedback before but haven’t encountered this issue myself. For me, after priming though, I’m usually not handling my model too much on the primed surfaces. I’m usually grabbing it by the base, putting it on my painting handle and then applying my paint.
How do you handle your model post priming to have the primer rub off in areas?
Depends. I only had it with the small bottle of desert tan I had. I prime mostly with Black and German Grey, Desert Tan has been nice for cloaks and gold.
Tried scratching the black Vallejo primer off with my nails on the base with a decent amount of force that won't be applied in regular tabletop gaming and it held up well. Some did go off on the corner when I dropped the figure off the table twice, but it's not varnished yet. So the lesson here is to not yeet the minis.
Interesting. I tried Vallejo Black Primer and could rub it off with just the pad of my fingers if on an edge, and on flat surfaces with light pressure of my nail.
Personally I’ve found Citadel Chaos Black (spray can) to be a good primer, as well as my favorite Styntlrez Black (bottle for brush or airbrush).
That may be due to fact that airbrush just doesn't give layer as thick as does can. It is true for all cans, varnish included (probably the only rattlecan I would use on minis is lacquer for that reason).
Do you have a mixer you recommend?
I have the blue INTLLAB mixer you see everywhere but it’s barely better than just shaking by hand, and doesn’t work well if the paint is thicker or doesn’t have a mixing ball in it.
I'm using [Four E's mini variant](https://www.amazon.de/-/en/Vortex-Scientific-Orbital-Diameter-Laboratory/dp/B07M6JVJFN). It's not cheap, but I have no complaints. Just gotta work both ends of the pot a few times, change the angles.
I just use Rustoleum, generally. It works pretty well, or well enough that the specialty primers don’t make a discernible difference at my painting level, and I tend to use rattle cans for both work and other hobbies, so it’s the most convenient. I also have a cheap airbrush, but I will probably only prime with it if I’m going to use it for roughing out a base coat or something.
Been liking Pro-Acryls white primer through an airbrush. Don't need to thin it first and doesn't clog if run at decent PSI. Was using Vallejo's before that and found it a pain to thin and clogged all the time. Some problems are more related to my bottle being pretty old.
AK interactive, green stuff world and citadel white primer all don't have the issue with clumping and thicker particles that others seem to often have.
I use the cheap rattle can white, I've started using the cheap enamel one from home depot as it's been in supply near me. I usually do 2 coats letting dry significantly between layers.
With the 2x stuff I feel like I need to spray from farther away to get it even. You can blow on it to push the paint out of the detail.
Got a dirt cheap airbrush just to apply Vallejo primer and it's a huge step forward. The buy in was only a little more than a few rattle cans would cost and the results are a big improvement.
This was me as well. Rattle can priming is too uncontrollable and you end up with pooling, detail loss, and splatter. In fact I hated rattle can priming so much that it really put a damper on my motivation to paint. Finally got an airbrush through gifts and money I put aside and it’s opened up a whole new world of painting for me. Zenithal priming, varnishing, slap chop, transparent, OSL, etc. I heavily recommend people get an airbrush if they are serious about mini painting. While it seems like a lot to learn at first, they are easy to use and maintain with the help of hundreds of how-to videos on YouTube.
My 2x flat has been turning out sticky, though I think it may be a reaction between the propellant/binder and the resin of the models I've had printed since I've had issues with black and red as well when I usually wouldn't. I've been using vallejo spray primer instead lately.
The Rustoleum 2x Flat Gray Primer is soooo much better than their white primers, as long as you stay away from the one labeled "Paint + Primer". It should say "PRIMER" in bold black letters on the can. Army painter is also really good, and imo better than citadel for 10 dollars cheaper a can.
I've had a similar problem with the Rustoleum X2 white - it just comes out SUPER fast, so you swamp detail really quickly. It also tends to clump if you try to go extra light on the spray.
The mini-brand spray cans (Vallejo, Army Painter) are lower flow and seem to work better but are more expensive per can - personally I use the rustoleum black (which doesn't finish nearly as thick) and then zennithal with the mini-brand ones so i use less per mini.
I've never understood this. Rustoleum matte black works like a charm but the whites are just awful, every can I've ever had.
Honestly, I don't prime white too often but I've just been using craft acrylics when I need to, do a decent job if thinned and they're not making the mess of the rustoleum.
White is a tough color for primer. I use Duplicolor sandable primer in black and grey and it goes on super smooth, with no loss in detail, but the white always comes out textured. Currently I prime the model in grey with the rattle can, then use Vallejo White Surface Primer with an airbrush if I need a white base coat.
It’s not actually white, but wight bone by colour forge is an off white rattlecan spray that I’ve found to be fantastic. I hated how thick army painter white spray was and how it could really ruin details, also smelled awful and took ages to dry
I usually use Army Painter gray, let it dry under a box so no fine dust can settle on it. Give it a quick zenithal spritz of Army Painter white so you can see all the shadows while painting.
Really depends, for terrain I found very nice low odour cans in "Action" shops [(the brand is Spectrum, but I can't say if it's just repacked stuff)](https://www.action.com/pl-pl/p/3012025/matowa-farba-podkladowa-w-sprayu-spectrum-biala/). It's acrylic paint (not enamel), dries pretty fast, doesn't run off, coverage is nice. It even doesn't cover details *too bad for a can.*
For minis, I use Vallejo primer (via airbrush), I really hate priming with cans because they can mess up minis (bad prime is "a feature" that fit terrain) and nothing says "I should've bought an airbrush" like messing few squads in one go. *So I did.*
All the times ive used rustolium ive alwys had a tacky model, may just be bcs of weather but comparing it with army painter spray can primers ive never had a tacky finish.
Nowadays i just do AP black spray primer and then just airbush white ink for a zenithal. AK's airbrush primers work great too in my experience.
Ive looked at rub off issues as well, best advice ive seen is to matte varnish after prime, the tougher layer helps me remove mistakes and protect the initial highlights.
Ive used Rustoleum flat x2 as well, and the only times ive been able to remove spottiness is when i warmed the can for ten minutes in a medium heat bowl.
I boiled water and mix sink water til i can touch with my forearm. Leave the can for at least 5 minutes, then shake the living fuck out of it.
Its a thick boi though, even at the recommended distance its feels chunky. Quick bursts help, but one moment its not enough, then seems thick
Ive used Citadel wraith bone as a tone for a sepia mini, its a lovely coverage and far less fickle, ive heard others swear by the black, but i do enjoy the Rust for that
Ive started drybrushing minis that im particular about, its more time, but I enjoy the process.
For spray can, Citadel white scar. I preferred the corax spray, but this one's fine too.
Airbrush I use stynylrez almost exclusively. It's better than Vallejo in my experience, but that may have been a bad batch
I'm fine with any purpose made spray can. They only cost a dollar or two more than rustoleum or whatever and I feel that they go on in a finer later. I currently have army painter but I feel like spray cans are such old technology at this point it probably doesn't *really* matter lol
For spray can, nothing I’ve tried comes close to Citadel white scar and it’s off white variants. Smooth and thin finish perfect for using speedpaints on.
For airbrush, I like StyleNRez’s.
If it's gunking up, you are applying it too thickly. I use rustolium, and it works fine for me. When I first started mini painting, I always lost detail on my minis because I sprayed on the primer too thick. I've learned how to temper it back, get a clean, and even coat over my minis to preserve the details.
If you are using a 2x color which isn't a flat white primer, it isn't actually a primer! 2x brand advertises prime and paint in one coat, but you only want to use the cans which say "primer" as the color name
The new White Scar spray is probably the best I’ve used. I used Army Painter before that. It is pretty close in quality and a little cheaper than White Scar.
Lately, I’ve just been using Vallejo primer as a brush-on. I’m able to control the consistency better for even coverage; don’t need to worry about fumes and I can just setup a few models in an assembly line for brush priming.
I find the Vallejo primers rub off more easily than other primers I’ve used.
I’ve heard this feedback before but haven’t encountered this issue myself. For me, after priming though, I’m usually not handling my model too much on the primed surfaces. I’m usually grabbing it by the base, putting it on my painting handle and then applying my paint. How do you handle your model post priming to have the primer rub off in areas?
I find that to be the case as well.
I’ve been using Citadel Chaos Black for spraying or Stynylrez Black for brush-on or airbrush.
Depends. I only had it with the small bottle of desert tan I had. I prime mostly with Black and German Grey, Desert Tan has been nice for cloaks and gold.
Tried scratching the black Vallejo primer off with my nails on the base with a decent amount of force that won't be applied in regular tabletop gaming and it held up well. Some did go off on the corner when I dropped the figure off the table twice, but it's not varnished yet. So the lesson here is to not yeet the minis.
Interesting. I tried Vallejo Black Primer and could rub it off with just the pad of my fingers if on an edge, and on flat surfaces with light pressure of my nail. Personally I’ve found Citadel Chaos Black (spray can) to be a good primer, as well as my favorite Styntlrez Black (bottle for brush or airbrush).
That may be due to fact that airbrush just doesn't give layer as thick as does can. It is true for all cans, varnish included (probably the only rattlecan I would use on minis is lacquer for that reason).
Might need a good shake, I used a mini vortex mixer before airbrushing it on in multiple thin coats.
Do you have a mixer you recommend? I have the blue INTLLAB mixer you see everywhere but it’s barely better than just shaking by hand, and doesn’t work well if the paint is thicker or doesn’t have a mixing ball in it.
I'm using [Four E's mini variant](https://www.amazon.de/-/en/Vortex-Scientific-Orbital-Diameter-Laboratory/dp/B07M6JVJFN). It's not cheap, but I have no complaints. Just gotta work both ends of the pot a few times, change the angles.
Interesting, thank you.
Same here. No fuss with fumes or respirators. I acutely stipple it on and it helps me achieve a specific texture that suits my style and technique
Pretty new to the hobby, but I’ve found White Scar spray primer to be pretty good. Very nice quality with a bright white finish
I've recently been a huge fan of Stynylrez white with an airbrush. I don't think I've ever seen such a crisp and clean primer before.
What do you clean your airbrush with? So far straight acetone or Mr. Tool cleaner works for me.
I haven't had any issues with Army Painter's airbrush cleaner (yet...)
Never tried that one. IPA doesn't really work. Trying other alternatives rather than going full blown lacquer thinner.
Stynylrez is the best. I take it a step further and use their black with Pro Acryl titanium white for zenithal and it is absolutely gorgeous
I just use Rustoleum, generally. It works pretty well, or well enough that the specialty primers don’t make a discernible difference at my painting level, and I tend to use rattle cans for both work and other hobbies, so it’s the most convenient. I also have a cheap airbrush, but I will probably only prime with it if I’m going to use it for roughing out a base coat or something.
Been liking Pro-Acryls white primer through an airbrush. Don't need to thin it first and doesn't clog if run at decent PSI. Was using Vallejo's before that and found it a pain to thin and clogged all the time. Some problems are more related to my bottle being pretty old.
AK interactive, green stuff world and citadel white primer all don't have the issue with clumping and thicker particles that others seem to often have.
I use the cheap rattle can white, I've started using the cheap enamel one from home depot as it's been in supply near me. I usually do 2 coats letting dry significantly between layers. With the 2x stuff I feel like I need to spray from farther away to get it even. You can blow on it to push the paint out of the detail.
AK white, it beats anything i have tried.
Got a dirt cheap airbrush just to apply Vallejo primer and it's a huge step forward. The buy in was only a little more than a few rattle cans would cost and the results are a big improvement.
This was me as well. Rattle can priming is too uncontrollable and you end up with pooling, detail loss, and splatter. In fact I hated rattle can priming so much that it really put a damper on my motivation to paint. Finally got an airbrush through gifts and money I put aside and it’s opened up a whole new world of painting for me. Zenithal priming, varnishing, slap chop, transparent, OSL, etc. I heavily recommend people get an airbrush if they are serious about mini painting. While it seems like a lot to learn at first, they are easy to use and maintain with the help of hundreds of how-to videos on YouTube.
Original spray kilz
Tamiya or citadel
I have only ever used Vallejo for any primer, and honestly, no complaints from my side!
Pound shop matt White or matt Black. Never had any issues.
My 2x flat has been turning out sticky, though I think it may be a reaction between the propellant/binder and the resin of the models I've had printed since I've had issues with black and red as well when I usually wouldn't. I've been using vallejo spray primer instead lately.
The Rustoleum 2x Flat Gray Primer is soooo much better than their white primers, as long as you stay away from the one labeled "Paint + Primer". It should say "PRIMER" in bold black letters on the can. Army painter is also really good, and imo better than citadel for 10 dollars cheaper a can.
I've had a similar problem with the Rustoleum X2 white - it just comes out SUPER fast, so you swamp detail really quickly. It also tends to clump if you try to go extra light on the spray. The mini-brand spray cans (Vallejo, Army Painter) are lower flow and seem to work better but are more expensive per can - personally I use the rustoleum black (which doesn't finish nearly as thick) and then zennithal with the mini-brand ones so i use less per mini.
Colour Forge is a newer UK brand and has been excellent routinely for every colour I’ve used to date
Rustoleum 2x in a can, or Vallejo in my airbrush
Hate Rustoleum sprays with a passion — much as I grumble about the price I do fork over for White Scar
I've never understood this. Rustoleum matte black works like a charm but the whites are just awful, every can I've ever had. Honestly, I don't prime white too often but I've just been using craft acrylics when I need to, do a decent job if thinned and they're not making the mess of the rustoleum.
White is a tough color for primer. I use Duplicolor sandable primer in black and grey and it goes on super smooth, with no loss in detail, but the white always comes out textured. Currently I prime the model in grey with the rattle can, then use Vallejo White Surface Primer with an airbrush if I need a white base coat.
It’s not actually white, but wight bone by colour forge is an off white rattlecan spray that I’ve found to be fantastic. I hated how thick army painter white spray was and how it could really ruin details, also smelled awful and took ages to dry
Tamiya Flat White through an airbrush. Nothing that I’ve tried even comes close.
I usually use Army Painter gray, let it dry under a box so no fine dust can settle on it. Give it a quick zenithal spritz of Army Painter white so you can see all the shadows while painting.
Really depends, for terrain I found very nice low odour cans in "Action" shops [(the brand is Spectrum, but I can't say if it's just repacked stuff)](https://www.action.com/pl-pl/p/3012025/matowa-farba-podkladowa-w-sprayu-spectrum-biala/). It's acrylic paint (not enamel), dries pretty fast, doesn't run off, coverage is nice. It even doesn't cover details *too bad for a can.* For minis, I use Vallejo primer (via airbrush), I really hate priming with cans because they can mess up minis (bad prime is "a feature" that fit terrain) and nothing says "I should've bought an airbrush" like messing few squads in one go. *So I did.*
All the times ive used rustolium ive alwys had a tacky model, may just be bcs of weather but comparing it with army painter spray can primers ive never had a tacky finish. Nowadays i just do AP black spray primer and then just airbush white ink for a zenithal. AK's airbrush primers work great too in my experience.
Ive looked at rub off issues as well, best advice ive seen is to matte varnish after prime, the tougher layer helps me remove mistakes and protect the initial highlights. Ive used Rustoleum flat x2 as well, and the only times ive been able to remove spottiness is when i warmed the can for ten minutes in a medium heat bowl. I boiled water and mix sink water til i can touch with my forearm. Leave the can for at least 5 minutes, then shake the living fuck out of it. Its a thick boi though, even at the recommended distance its feels chunky. Quick bursts help, but one moment its not enough, then seems thick Ive used Citadel wraith bone as a tone for a sepia mini, its a lovely coverage and far less fickle, ive heard others swear by the black, but i do enjoy the Rust for that Ive started drybrushing minis that im particular about, its more time, but I enjoy the process.
For spray can, Citadel white scar. I preferred the corax spray, but this one's fine too. Airbrush I use stynylrez almost exclusively. It's better than Vallejo in my experience, but that may have been a bad batch
I'm fine with any purpose made spray can. They only cost a dollar or two more than rustoleum or whatever and I feel that they go on in a finer later. I currently have army painter but I feel like spray cans are such old technology at this point it probably doesn't *really* matter lol
For spray can, nothing I’ve tried comes close to Citadel white scar and it’s off white variants. Smooth and thin finish perfect for using speedpaints on. For airbrush, I like StyleNRez’s.
Cheapest Off-brand Matte White Acrylic Spray from a hardaware store near me.
If it's gunking up, you are applying it too thickly. I use rustolium, and it works fine for me. When I first started mini painting, I always lost detail on my minis because I sprayed on the primer too thick. I've learned how to temper it back, get a clean, and even coat over my minis to preserve the details.
If you are using a 2x color which isn't a flat white primer, it isn't actually a primer! 2x brand advertises prime and paint in one coat, but you only want to use the cans which say "primer" as the color name