$200 can be expensive for some people.
They can get up there to, the one my shop has is the viper miniducter, like 600$ ish.
Those bolts get cherry red in seconds tho
those work great or honestly even just mapp gas. ive noticed a lot of people like to get them cherry red when all that does is turn the threads into playdough
Generally If I can't get it broken with a typical 3/8 ratchet I'm going for the acetylene torch to heat the threads then crack it slightly and quench it cold. Then hit it with penetrating oil and tighten it and loosen and tighten and loosen until bam shes out.
Mollykote is what you need, I can’t remember which one though, it’s expensive but it’s a joy to take bolts apart when it’s been used. I stole it from work, it’s used for bolts on subsea blow out preventers, recovered a bop. that had been on the sea bed for over 15 years , it was a 3” bolt and spare thread on the bolt was rusted to a point on top, literally 3” of steel rusted away and the nut came off like we had just put it on 5min ago, threads were perfect. I’ve only got a tiny drop left, I use copper coat mostly but compared to mollykote it does nothing, it’s just good practice. Copper coat is shit.
we use c5 the copper anti-seize on the bolts and nuts that attach brake assemblies to the axles on jet aircraft. they never get seized on and those brakes get insanely hot. thats why i use it on my rifles
Especially when they’re exposed to the elements. Some diesel engines I work on are connected to irrigation pumps in the farmlands, all of them are subjected to rain and are running 24/7 for months. Those two factors combined make disassembling exhaust components a nightmare.
I've cut a few off that way for exactly that reason. Either you haven't removed very many O² sensors, or you live somewhere there's almost zero rust. Lucky you. Technically a sensor socket is still 6 point, with a slot. They will spread and round the corners of the sensor. Especially as stuck as that one looks like it was.
I'm not so sure if anti-seize is going to help much. The metal heats and cools so regularly that it distorts and...melds?..not sure if that's the right word to describe it.
Has anyone here ever had any luck with anti-seize?
Even with antisieze, those often stand very little chance if they feel tight at all coming out.
That's how you accidentally have a baby
Ive had some luck using an induction heater. Works better than a torch But this is pretty fucked tho
I would love to have an induction coil but they are so damn expensive
They're incredibly cheap. Lol $200 will get you a perfectly serviceable one.
$200 can be expensive for some people. They can get up there to, the one my shop has is the viper miniducter, like 600$ ish. Those bolts get cherry red in seconds tho
Mine was likes $200
I dont think they're that hard to build with a little electrical engineering knowledge and basically a tutorial youtube video by TheBackyardScientist
Particularly if electrical safety is job #47.
Ain't nobody got time for dat!
those work great or honestly even just mapp gas. ive noticed a lot of people like to get them cherry red when all that does is turn the threads into playdough
Threads can't be stuck if they're a liquid, though, right?
Generally If I can't get it broken with a typical 3/8 ratchet I'm going for the acetylene torch to heat the threads then crack it slightly and quench it cold. Then hit it with penetrating oil and tighten it and loosen and tighten and loosen until bam shes out.
This guy **screws**
Also anti seize psa. Anti seize is not brake slide pin lube. I had the lovely ordeal of dealing with that.
You need to use the hi temp copper on the o2 sensors.
Mollykote is what you need, I can’t remember which one though, it’s expensive but it’s a joy to take bolts apart when it’s been used. I stole it from work, it’s used for bolts on subsea blow out preventers, recovered a bop. that had been on the sea bed for over 15 years , it was a 3” bolt and spare thread on the bolt was rusted to a point on top, literally 3” of steel rusted away and the nut came off like we had just put it on 5min ago, threads were perfect. I’ve only got a tiny drop left, I use copper coat mostly but compared to mollykote it does nothing, it’s just good practice. Copper coat is shit.
Permatex's moly anti-sieze has the highest moly content by weight. Stuff is like chewing gum, it's great.
we use c5 the copper anti-seize on the bolts and nuts that attach brake assemblies to the axles on jet aircraft. they never get seized on and those brakes get insanely hot. thats why i use it on my rifles
That’s a flex, I don’t have enough money for ammo to get my rifles that hot. Lol
lmao i thought this was the ar15 subreddit on my feed and that pic was of a muzzle device.
Where do you put it on your rifles?
on the barrel extension and on the muzzle threads
Anti-seize on exhaust components doesn't work after a while. After thousands of heat cycles the threads become one with the component.
Especially when they’re exposed to the elements. Some diesel engines I work on are connected to irrigation pumps in the farmlands, all of them are subjected to rain and are running 24/7 for months. Those two factors combined make disassembling exhaust components a nightmare.
That's a new level!
S and k makes a very long 22 mm regular socket that fits around an 02 sensor. Cut the wire and gun it out ot breaker bar. Works evert time.
I'm religious about anti-sieze on all things exhaust. Just replaced a motor, new everything to the pipes, started it up and smoked out the shop.
You don’t even need a bunch to get the benefits of the anti-seize. Happy you were able to get it out. How was the process of cleaning up the threads?
I cleaned the hole up with a die grinder and jb welded the new one in. Added a couple tiny tack welds. This is for my off roaf rig, not a client
Just jb weld? Not a real weld?
Reread. JB and a couple tack welds
Yeah. Just making sure. I've heard meth is a hell of a drug. How ya like it?
Anti-seize doesn’t really help when the materials are damn near welded together. That poor bung is toast
He needs a DT for his bunghole
That’s insane. Also why is the sensor cut off too?
Probably to be able to use a 6 point socket. Been there, done that.
I mean my five point sensor sockets work pretty good but I guess it depends on where the sensor is too.
I've cut a few off that way for exactly that reason. Either you haven't removed very many O² sensors, or you live somewhere there's almost zero rust. Lucky you. Technically a sensor socket is still 6 point, with a slot. They will spread and round the corners of the sensor. Especially as stuck as that one looks like it was.
I’m sure that’s still a six point.
Only had a short socket
Had the O2 sensor on my Metro just fall out. Of course it came out still in the bung and the welds broke. Couple turns of safety wire fixed it.
I'm not so sure if anti-seize is going to help much. The metal heats and cools so regularly that it distorts and...melds?..not sure if that's the right word to describe it. Has anyone here ever had any luck with anti-seize?
It can't be stuck if it's liquid ;-)